2013 Cadillac ATS Fuel System Problems

Car keeps cutting off, when put in neutral, or just cutting on RPM goes up then goes down and cut off, when driving car starts off slow then speed up. put a new fuel pump in the car.

THE FUEL LINE BROKE DUE TO THE HIGH SIDE FUEL PUMP SEIZING UP AND THE BREAK AWAY BOLT BREAKING CAUSING THE PUMP TO BE UNSTABLE. THUS THE VIBRATION CAUSING THE FUEL LINE TO BRAKE SPEWING GAS ALL OVER. THE FUEL LINE BREAKING THEN PROMPTS THE COMPUTER SOMETHING WITH FUEL IS MALFUNCTIONING AND SHUTS MOTOR TO HALF RUNNING POWER AN THROUGHS SOME MORE FUEL RELATED CODES. RENDERING YOUR VEHICLE INOPERABLE AND NEEDING A TOW TO A SHOP FOR REPAIRS. THE FUEL PUMP DESIGN HELPS SAVE YOUR MOTOR IN THIS EVENT FROM BEING DESTROYED, WHEN IT MALFUNCTIONS LIKE THIS. THE FUEL PUMP DESIGN SEEMS LIKE IT COULD BE HIGHLY DANGEROUS. WITH FUEL BE SPEWED OUT AT HIGH PRESSURE IS UNSAFE. IT SOUNDS LIKE THE FUEL LINE BREAKING BECAUSE OF THIS DESIGN IS A PRETTY COMMON PROBLEM. I BELIEVE THE 2018 CADILLAC HAS A RECALL ON THIS EXACT SAME THING THAT HAPPENED TO MY 2013 BUT THE 2013 HAS NO RECALL ON IT?? WHEN MY VEHICLE FUEL LINE BROKE I WAS DRIVING IN NORMAL CONDITIONS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS. I'M SURE THERE WAS TURNING AND BRAKING IN THE MIDST OF THE FUEL LINE BREAKING. THE SPECIFIC PART THAT BROKE WAS FUEL LINE PART NUMBER 12627125 AND HIGH SIDE FUEL PUMP PART NUMBER 12658486.

RIGHT TURN FROM STOP ONTO MAJOR 6-LANE HIGHWAY; NO POWER TO ENGINE AFTER ENGAGEMENT OF ACCELERATOR; ACTED AS THOUGH NOT IN-DRIVE GEAR; TACHOMETER REVED PAST 6K; FOOT OFF OF PEDAL; TRANSMISSION ENGAGED; VERY SLOW RETURN TO NORMAL OPERATION; EVASIVE ACTION BY OTHER DRIVERS FOLLOWING; NO REPLICATION BY DEALER AFTER 4-DAYS OF TESTING; RETURNED VEHICLE TO OWNER WITHOUT EXPLANATION OF PROBLEM. *TR

WHEN COASTING TO COME TO A STOP THE VEHICLE ENGINE WILL STALL. THIS HAS HAPPENED NUMEROUS TIMES SINCE THE FIRST INCIDENT IN JANUARY. THIS IS A 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION EQUIPPED VEHICLE, AND THE TRANSMISSION IS EITHER IN NEUTRAL OR THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS DEPRESSED SO THAT THE ENGINE/TRANSMISSION ARE DECOUPLED. I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO WATCH THE TACHOMETER WHEN IT HAS STALLED TWICE, AND IT SEEMS TO GET TO A LOWER RPM THAN NORMAL (<500RPM) AND THEN THE ENGINE JUST SHUTS OFF, VERY ABRUPTLY. IT HAS ALSO HAPPENED WHEN SLOWING TO TAKE A TURN WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL DEPRESSED, WHICH IS VERY DIFFICULT TO GET BACK STARTED AS YOU ARE TRYING TO DRIVE AND NOT CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. I HAVE REPORTED THIS TO THE DEALER, AND THEY HAVE TRIED TO DIAGNOSE IT, HOWEVER NO FIX HAS HAPPENED. IT WILL NORMALLY STALL ABOUT ONCE EVERY WEEK OR SO, IT IS VERY INTERMITTENT AND SEEMS MORE OFTEN WITH A HIGHER LOAD ON THE ENGINE (HOT DAYS, A/C RUNNING, ETC...). THE DEALER WENT AS FAR AS TO BLAME ME FOR STALLING THE VEHICLE, THEY SAID I DIDN'T DISENGAGE THE CLUTCH AT A HIGH ENOUGH RPM WHICH IS COMPLETELY UNTRUE AND REGARDLESS THE CAR WAS IN NEUTRAL AND I WAS COASTING TO A STOP (THEREFORE IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO STALL THE VEHICLE IN GEAR). I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS ISSUE, THERE HAVE BEEN NUMEROUS PEOPLE ON FORUMS COMPLAINING OF THE SAME ISSUE. *TR