2007 Dodge Caliber Complaint Log

WHEN DOING A BRAKE JOB I NOTICED THE FRONT K MEMBER HAD A CORROSION HOLE IN THE BACK OF IT, THIS IS THE FRONT SUB FRAME THAT HOLDS THE POWERTRAIN AND FRONT SUSPENSION. *TR

I FIRST LOST THE LOW BEAM ON MY DRIVER SIDE HEAD LIGHT. I REPLACED THE BULB ONLY TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. LATER THAT DAY I WAS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT, MY CAR THEN STALLED OUT. I PUT IT IN PARK AND RESTARTED IT. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STARTED TO FLASH THERE WAS LITTLE TO NO POWER. I MANAGED TO PULL MY CAR OFF THE ROAD PUT IT INTO PARK THEN RESTART IT AGAIN. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYED ON BUT WAS NOT FLASHING. I GOT MY CAR HOME. I COUNT MY BLESSING THAT MY CAR DIDN'T DIE WHILE GOING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. OR LOSE ALL THE LIGHTS AND CAUSE AN CRASH. I'M WORRIED TO DRIVE IT NOW BUT I HAVE NO CHOICE IF I WANT TO KEEP WORKING. THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE FROM WHAT I HAVE READ. THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE NEEDS TO BE RECALLED BEFORE IT KILLS PEOPLE. IT IS UNSAFE AND CAUSES THE CAR THE BECOME A DEATH TRAP FOR THE DRIVER AND ALL THE PEOPLE AROUND IT. *TR

WATER GOT INTO TAIL LIGHT, FROZE AND MADE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL INOPERABLE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER RT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REAR AND FRONT SUB FRAMES WERE COMPLETELY CORRODED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE SUB FRAMES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 61,000. UPDATED 01/14/14*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED THE FRONT AND REAR SUB FRAME WAS SEVERELY RUSTED. THE CONSUMER HAS SINCE TRADED THE VEHICLE. UPDATED 01/16/14

I NOTICED THAT MY LEFT (DRIVER SIDE) HEADLIGHT WAS OUT. SO I REPLACED THE BULB, WHICH WOULD BE THE OBVIOUS REASON FOR THE LIGHT NOT WORKING. HOWEVER, THIS DID NOT FIX THE ISSUE. AFTER FURTHER INSPECTION AND DISCUSSION WITH A MECHANIC, IT TURNS OUT IT'S THE TIMP THAT IS BAD AND CAUSING THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT NOT TO WORK. IN ADDITION, AFTER DOING MORE RESEARCH ONLINE IT APPEARS THAT THIS ISSUE IS MORE THAN COMMON WITH THE 2007 DODGE CALIBER. I CAN'T SEE HOW A RECALL HAS NOT ALREADY BEEN FILED FOR THIS ISSUE GIVEN IT IS A HUGE SAFETY HAZARD IF ONE'S HEADLIGHTS DON'T WORK AT NIGHT. IN ADDITION, IT CAUSES SOMEONE TO BE PULLED OVER. *TR

I WAS SLOWING DOWN TO STOP AT AN INTERSECTION AND HEARD A THUMP ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR. AS I STARTED TO PULL FORWARD THE STEERING WAS VERY DIFFICULT AND THE I HEARD A WHINING SOUND FROM THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. I WAS ABOUT A MILE FROM MY REPAIR SHOP SO I HAD MY BROTHER FOLLOW ME WITH HIS EMERGENCY FLASHERS AND DROVE SLOWLY TO THE SHOP WHERE I FOUND OUT THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS COMPLETELY ROTTED THROUGH. IN THE LAST YEAR, I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS AND THE ALTERNATOR. *TR

MY CAR DRIVE SIDE LIGHT IS NOT WORKING AND THE BRAKES KEEP HAVING PROBLEMS. *TR

WHILE DRIVING MY 2007 DODGE CALIBER WITH MY TWO YOUNG KIDS IN THE BACK MY ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD CAME ON ABOUT 30 SECONDS LATER MY CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. I WAS ABLE TO PULL INTO A PARKING LOT WITHOUT CAUSING AN ACCIDENT. AFTER BUYING A E.T.C. AND HAVING IT REPLACED ABOUT 12 MONTHS LATER THE ETC WENT OUT AGAIN THIS TIME ON THE HIGHWAY WHILE DOING 65 MPH MY CAR WOULD NO LONGER ACCELERATE THE ETC HAD RUSTED CLOSED AGAIN. LIKING ONLINE SOME OF THESE CARS HAVE BEEN RECALLED FOR AN ISSUE WITHTHE ETC. I'M AFRAID FOR MY FAMILY'S SAFETY THERE'S NO WARNING OTHER THAN A LIGHT AND MOMENTS LATER YOUR CAR IISNO LONGER ACCELERATING.

I WENT TO GET MY OIL CHANGED AN THE OIL CHANGE PERSON SAID HE COULD NOT CHANGE MY OIL BECAUSE THE OIL PAN IS ROTTING OUT FROM RUST AN THERE'S ANOTHER PAN THERE THAT LOOKS BAD TO I GUESSING MUST BE TRANSMISSION COVER,I HAVE NEVER IN MY LIFE HEARD OF A OIL PAN RUSTING OUT .THE CAR IS LIKE NEW,WHAT DO I DO. *TR

WHILE UNDER MY DODGE I NOTICED THAT THERE IS A LARGE AMOUNT OF RUST. AFTER FURTHER INSPECTION I SAW THAT THEY DESIGNED THE AC CONDENSATION TO DRIP DIRECTLY ONTO THE FRAME. THIS BAFFLES ME SINCE ALL THEY HAD TOO DO IS DESIGN A TUBE TO DIRECT THE WATER ONTO THE GROUND. I AM NOT SURE EXACTLY HOW THIS HAS EFFECTED THE STRENGTH OF THE FRAME BUT FROM THE AMOUNT OF RUST ON THE SPOT WHERE THE WATER DRIPS I DON'T HAVE A WARM AND FUZZY THAT THE FRAME WILL LAST THE LIFE OF THE CAR OR THAT THE FRAME WON'T JUST SNAP WHILE DRIVING AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. VERY UNSAFE PRACTICE AND WITH SUCH AN EASY FIX DON'T UNDERSTAND IT AT ALL. *TR

WOKE UP TO A FLAT TIRE. WHILE PLACING ON THE SPARE I REALIZED THAT ALL FOUR TIRES WERE DANGEROUSLY LOW ON EACH OF THEIR INNER TREAD. ALIGNMENT? MAYBE HOWEVER WAS ALIGNED 7 MONTHS AGO. TIRE TREAD IS WITHIN SAFE LIMITS ON THE OUTER SIDE. HAVE COMPLAINED FOR YEARS TO THE DEALER THAT THE SUSPENSION SQUEAKS AND WAS TOLD NEED NEW WHEEL BEARINGS, AT APPROX. 35,000 MILES. THE SUSPENSION HAS BEEN AN ISSUE ABOUT A YEAR AFTER WE BOUGHT IT. OF COURSE WHILE UNDER WARRANTY NOTHING WAS REPLACED OR FIXED. NOW OUT OF WARRANTY WE WILL HAVE TO HAVE SOMEONE FIGURE OUT THE PROBLEM AND FIX FOR WHO KNOWS HOW MUCH MONEY. MY COMPLAINT STEAMS FROM HAVING SUSPENSION ISSUES WITHIN THE FIRST TWO YEARS OF OWNING THIS CAR. HOW DOES THIS HAPPEN? I HAVE SEEN MANY POSTS ON ONLINE FORUMS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM BUT DODGE DOESN'T CARE OR WILLING TO FIX THEIR MISTAKE? WHILE WE HAVE DRIVEN IT TO OVER 100,000 MILES THE SUSPENSION ISSUES HAVE BEEN THERE FOR YEARS AND NO DEALER EVER FIXED ANYTHING? NO RECALL? IT NOW IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND WILL COST US AN ARM AND LEG TO FIX WHATEVER DODGE DIDN'T CARE TO PUT RESEARCH INTO BUILDING PROPERLY THE FIRST TIME. *TR

EVERY TIME WHEN I WOULD BE GOING OVER ANY KIND OF BUMP,DRIVEWAYS AT SPEED BUMPS OR JUST DRIVING THE CAR. I WOULD ALWAYS HERE SHAKING OR RUMBLING NOISES IN MY FRONT SUSPENSION. RECENTLY I HAD TO GET A CLUTCH INSTALLED IN MY CALIBER. AND MY MECHANIC INFORMING ME THAT MY CONTROL ARMS WERE COMING LOOSE. WHICH MEANS THAT IF IT PERSISTS THE WHEELS CAN COME OFF SO THAT'S THE SOUND I AM HEARING THE WHEELS SHAKING WHEN IT GOES OVER BUMPS!. AND THEN HE FOLLOWED BY SAYING WITH DODGE CALIBERS CONTROL ARMS ALWAYS SEEMS TO GO BAD EARLY IN THE LIFE OF THE CAR NO MATTER HOW YOU DRIVE. I ONLY HAVE ABOUT 91,000 MILES ON MY CAR WHICH ARE ABOUT 90% HIGHWAY MILES. I USED TO DRIVE FOR UPS DROVE TRUCKS FOR LIVING WHEN HE COMES TO CHANGING GEARS AND DRIVING THE CAR I AM EXTREMELY CAPABLE. SO FOR A CLUTCH TO GO BACK IN JUST SEVEN YEARS IS ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS. MY PARENTS HAD A 1987 VOLVO STATION WAGON WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION. AND WE NEVER HAD TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS!!! HEY DODGE THIS IS HOW A CAR IS SUPPOSED TO WORK!! YOU BUY IT WORKS TILL YOU SELL IT. WITH A FEW MAINTENANCE FIXES DOWN THE LINE. (NOT CONTROL ARMS TRANSMISSION AND ELECTRICAL AND GAS PEDALS.) SO FOR CONTROL ARMS GOING BAD AT THIS TIME IS ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS. I WENT ON OTHER FORUMS OF PEOPLE WHO HAS THE SAME CAR AS MINE IN ABOUT 600 PEOPLE OR THOUSAND PEOPLE WERE SAYING EXACTLY THE SAME THING BUT THEY HAD TO SPEND A LOT OF MONEY TO GET THESE THINGS FIXED. I UNDERSTAND THAT THINGS GO BAD CARS OVER TIME BUT THIS IS EXTREMELY TOO EARLY. I HAVE WENT TO 3 TO 4 OTHER MECHANICS AND ALL SAY THE SAME THING ABOUT THE DODGE CALIBERS. CONTROL ARMS ARE A MAJOR IMPORTANT THING IS SAFETY OF A CAR EXTREMELY BASIC AN EXTREMELY SIMPLE TO UNDERSTAND THAT CONFORMS DO NOT GO BACK AND JUST SEVEN YEARS. NOTE MY CONTROL ARMS AREN'T AS BAD AS SOME OTHERS. *TR

I WAS INVOLVED IN A COLLISION, MY FRONT INTO A REAR QUARTER PANEL. MY CAR WAS A TOTAL PER THE INSURANCE COMPANY YET MY AIRBAGS NEVER DEPLOYED. I ONLY SUFFERED MINOR INJURIES TO MY HEAD, SHOULDER AND NECK, BUT HAD MY AIRBAGS WORKED, I BELIEVE MY INJURIES WOULD HAVE BEEN A LESSER DEGREE. *TR

ELEC LOCKS, WINDSHIELD WIPER(REAR), RADIO, CLOCK, HAZARD LIGHTS, AIR CONDITIONER, HEATER WOULD NOT WORK AND "NOFUSE" MESSAGE ON DASH. *TR

I OWN A 2007 DODGE CALIBER SXT. BACK IN MARCH OF THIS YEAR, THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. AFTER REPLACING THE BULB, IT STILL DID NOT WORK. I LOOKED ONLINE FOR SOME POTENTIAL ENLIGHTENMENT AS TO WHY AND FOUND A MULTITUDE OF MESSAGE BOARDS AND CONSUMER WEBSITES STATING THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE 2007 DODGE CALIBERS. IT STARTS WITH LOSING A HEADLIGHT AND THEN ESCALATES TO LOSS OF POWER TO THE HEADLIGHTS, BLINKERS, HAZARD LIGHTS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS, AND SOMETIMES THE HEATING/COOLING SYSTEM AND/OR RADIO. INITIALLY, IN MARCH, I HADN'T EXPERIENCED THAT YET. TODAY, I WAS DRIVING THROUGH A CITY AT APPROXIMATELY 30MPH WHEN I WENT TO TAKE A TURN AND NOTICED MY RIGHT BLINKER WASN'T WORKING, SO I TRIED THE BLINKER FOR THE LEFT. THAT TOO WAS NOT WORKING. NEITHER WERE MY HAZARD LIGHTS OR WINDSHIELD WIPERS. I WAS FAR FROM HOME AND AFRAID TO SHUT THE CAR OFF, FOR FEAR IT WOULD NOT RESTART SO I KEPT DRIVING HOME CAUTIOUSLY, TRYING NOT TO CHANGE LANES. IT BEGAN POURING RAIN AND I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY. I HAD NO HEADLIGHTS, NO WIPERS, AND NO BLINKERS OR HAZARDS TO SIGNAL I WAS GOING OVER INTO THE BREAKDOWN LANE. ONCE IN THE BREAKDOWN LANE, I WAS NOT EASILY VISIBLE TO THE OTHER CARS SPEEDING BY BECAUSE OF THE AMOUNT OF RAIN AND THE FACT THAT I HAD NO HAZARD LIGHTS TO RELY ON. I COULD EASILY HAVE BEEN HIT OR HIT SOMEONE ELSE WHILE TRYING TO NAVIGATE THROUGH THE RAIN TO SAFETY WITH NO WORKING BLINKERS, HAZARDS, HEADLIGHTS, OR WIPERS! THE WORST PART IS, THIS IS A STARTLINGLY COMMON ISSUE WITH THE YEAR, MAKE, AND MODEL AND DODGE IS NOT OFFERING A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE WITH THE TIPM (TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE), WHERE THE PROBLEM IS STEMMING FROM. THE DEALERSHIP WANTS TO CHARGE ME $99 FOR DIAGNOSTICS AND THEN OVER $1,000 FOR A NEW TIPM. I WANT TO START A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT TO GET DODGE TO RECALL ALL OF THE VEHICLES HAVING THESE SAFETY ISSUES CAUSED BY THE TIPM FAILURE!!!! *JS

MY CAR STARTED MAKING A NOISE AND IDLING HIGH LAST YEAR. IT STARTED CUTTING ITSELF OFF AND EVENTUALLY IT WOULDN'T START. I REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY. NOW LESS THAN A YEAR LATER 2014, THE LOW LIGHTS DON'T WORK AND IT IS STARTING TO MAKE THE SAME NOISE AND CUT ITSELF OFF. NOW I'M BEING TOLD ITS THE TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT HE WAS CONCERNED THAT THE REAR LOWER SUB FRAME COULD FAIL DUE TO A FAILURE THAT THE PREVIOUS OWNER EXPERIENCED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, WHO CONFIRMED THAT THE SUB FRAME WAS RUSTED AND CORRODED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 78,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HAVING REGULAR MAINTENANCE PERFORMED ON THE VEHICLE, THE TECHNICIAN ADVISED HER THAT THE LOWER BALL JOINTS WERE LOOSE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 63,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER RT. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 50 MPH IN HEAVY RAIN WHEN THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS WERE ACTIVATED BUT FAILED TO OPERATE. THE CONTACT HAD TO MOVE OFF THE ROADWAY UNTIL THE RAINING CEASED. THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS WERE THEN REACTIVATED BUT FAILED WITHIN SECONDS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THAT THE TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) HAD TO BE REPLACED AND THE VEHICLE WOULD BE REPAIRED ONCE THE PART BECAME AVAILABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE DEFECT. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

ENGINE STALLED AFTER FILLING UP WITH FUEL. THE FIRST INCIDENT HAPPENED WHILE PULLING INTO TRAFFIC, FROM THE GAS STATION WHERE I JUST FILLED UP. AT LATER DATES, IT HAPPENED SEVERAL MORE TIMES WHILE BOTH MOVING AND IDLING IN PARK, BUT ALWAYS RIGHT AFTER FILLING UP THE TANK. THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND STALL FOR THE FIRST MINUTE OR SO. IF I WAS ABLE TO PUNCH THE THROTTLE QUICKLY ENOUGH I COULD SOMETIMES AVOID THE STALL. IF THE CAR STALLED, IT WOULD ALWAYS RESTART AND EVENTUALLY CLEAR UP AFTER RUNNING FOR A FEW MINUTES. ONCE I REALIZED WHEN AND WHY THIS WAS HAPPENING, I BEGAN STOPPING A GALLON SHORT FROM A FULL TANK WHENEVER FUELING UP. THIS HAS STOPPED THE ISSUE, BUT NOT FIXED THE PROBLEM. I SEE WHERE THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN ADDRESSED WITH OTHER DODGE AND CHRYSLER MODELS, BUT NOTHING SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN DONE FOR THE CALIBER/AVENGER VEHICLE CLASS. FROM WHAT I HAVE READ, IT IS DEFINITELY A PROBLEM IN THESE VEHICLES AS WELL. *TR

DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, ALL OF MY DASH LIGHTS CAME ON-BATTERY, FUEL, TEMP, ETC. CAR LOST SPEED AND BECAME SLUGGISH. LOST POWER STEERING AND PULLED OVER. CAR IMMEDIATELY DIED AND WOULD NOT GO INTO PARK. LOCKED UP COMPLETELY. AFTER ABOUT 30 MINS, IT STARTED BACK UP AND RAN FOR PAX 3 BLOCKS BEFORE DOING IT AGAIN. HAD IT TOWED. REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR, THEN 3 WEEKS LATER SAME ISSUES. REPLACED THE BATTERY. DID NOT FIX IT. NOW TOLD ITS A COMMON ISSUE FOR THE DODGE CALIBER AND IS THE CONTROL MODULE WHICH IS A 1000 DOLLAR PART PLUS LABOR. AND THAT DODGE IS AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND HAS NOT RECALLED THEM. I DO NOT FEEL I SHOULD BE STUCK WITH THE COSTS OF A MAJOR REPAIR THAT IS A DESIGN FLAW FROM THE MANUFACTURER THAT THEY HAVE BEEN AWARE OF FOR YEARS AND IS OBVIOUSLY A HAZARD WHEN IT SHUTS DOWN IMMEDIATELY WHILE DRIVING WITH NO WARNING. MY TWO YOUNG CHILDREN AND 84 YEAR OLD GRAND MOTHER WERE WITH ME IN 100 DEGREE WEATHER ON THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY FOR HOURS WHILE WAITING ON A TOW AND A FAMILY MEMBER TO COME GET US SINCE WE COULDN'T RIDE IN THE TOW TRUCK. AFTER READING FORUMS ONLINE, HUNDREDS IF NOT THOUSANDS OF CALIBER OWNERS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE. SOME HAD CARS THAT WERE ONLY TWO WEEKS OLD! I WOULD LIKE TO REQUEST AN INVESTIGATION AND HOPEFULLY A RECALL HAPPEN. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER THE VEHICLE APPROACHED A STOP SIGN, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL HAD TO BE DEPRESSED NUMEROUS TIMES TO INCREASE SPEED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED OR DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED ON THE ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 94,000.

ONE DAY AS I CAME BACK TO MY CAR AND UNLOCKED MY DOOR WITH MY CAR KEY BUTTON, I NOTICED THE PASSENGER HEADLIGHT WAS OUT. THE NEXT DAY I WENT TO BUY A NEW HEADLIGHT BULB TO REPLACE IT, EXCEPT IT DIDN'T WORK WHEN I TRIED THE NEW ONE. I WENT TO A LOCAL MECHANIC TO ASK WHAT WAS WRONG. HE TOLD ME IT IS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE WIRES AND WOULD COST A LOT OF MONEY TO FIX IT, LET ALONE THE PART ITSELF. I RESEARCHED OTHER PEOPLE COMPLAIN ABOUT THE SAME PROBLEM. I HAVE BEEN REJECTED A REGISTRATION STICKER BECAUSE IT IS NOT SAFE FOR IT TO BE OUT. I ALSO HAVE BEEN PULLED OVER BY THE COPS AND WAS TOLD TO GET IT FIXED. I WOULD, BUT IT COSTS TOO MUCH TO FIX. I BELIEVE THIS SHOULD BE A VALID REASON FOR IT TO BE RECALLED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, DUE TO SAFETY OF THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS. I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO ADD THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ALSO ON. *TR

I WAS DRIVING AND THE ENGINE QUIT RUNNING I COASTED INTO A TURNAROUND HAD TO BE TOWED TO DEALER THEY SAID WIRING AT THE FUEL PUMP IN THE TANK OVERHEATED SHORTED AND BURNED OUT THE PUMP THE REPAIR WAS COSTLY AND THEY WOULD NOT HELP I DO NOT SEE THIS AS NORMAL WEAR BUT A SAFETY AND DESIGN FLAW. *TR

PASSENGER HEADLIGHT NOT TURNING ON. AFTER REPLACING BULB IT POWERED ON ONE OR TWO MORE TIMES THEN WOULD NOT TURN ON AGAIN. AFTER MUCH RESEARCH I HAVE FOUND THAT THE TIPM IS THE RESULT, AND THAT IT IS VERY EXPENSIVE TO FIX. SINCE HEADLIGHT HAVE TO PASS SAFETY INSPECTIONS AND THE TIPM APPEARS TO BE FAULTY, THIS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED A RECALL! *TR

ON MY WAY HOME FROM WORK I STOPPED AT A LIGHT AND MY CAR JERKED AND ACTED AS THOUGH IT WAS ABOUT TO SHUT OFF AND MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THEN THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE VERY WELL. I WENT BACK TO MY WORK AND HAD THE MECHANIC CHECK IT (I WORK AT A SCHOOL TRANSPORTATION) AND THE LIGHT SAID IT WAS THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SO I GOT IT REPLACED AND IT DID NOTHING SO WE WENT AHEAD AND REPLACED THR CAMSHAFT AS WELL AND IT WORKED FOR A WEEK OR SO THEN STARTED OFF AND ON. MY HEADLIGHT ALSO STOPPED WORKING AND I REPLACED IT 3 TIMES BEFORE WONDERING WHAT THE HECK! I JUST RECENTLY WAS CITED A TICKET DUE TO THE LIGHT AND SINCE I WAS NOT ABLE TO FIX IT I HAD MY LICENSE SUSPENDED AND WAS DRIVING WITHOUT KNOWING AND ENDED UP GETTING PULLED OVER AGAIN BUT INSTEAD OF EXPLAINING THAT MY CAR SUCKS I WAS ARRESTED AND PUT IN JAIL FOR A COUPLE HOURS SO NOW I HAVE TWO COURT DATES COMING UP ONE FOR MY FIX IT TICKET NOT GETTING FIXED AND ANOTHER FOR DRIVING ON SUSPENDED BECAUSE OF NOT GETTING THE PART FIXED SO IT IS STARTING TO BECOME A MAJOR ISSUE FOR MY WHOLE LIFE IN GENERAL. MY CAR DIES AT ALMOST EVERY STOP LIGHT AND IF I GO OVER 2RPM IT WILL NOT ACCLERATE. I HAD TO REPLACE MAJOR PARTS SUCH AS; MOTOR MOUNTS, STRUTS, PISTONS, CALIPERS, BRAKES, BATTERIES, ETC IN JUST THE SHORT TIME IVE OWNED THE VEHICLE WHICH WAS VERY HARD FOR ME SINCE I DONT MAKE MUCH MONEY. THE CAR IS WIRED VERY ODD AND MY FATHER IS MY GO TO MECHANIC BUT HE COULDNT FIGURE OUT SOME OF THE PARTS. I DONT HAVE THE FINANCES FOR THE TPIM AND FIGURED IT WOULD BE RECALLED BY NOW SINCE ITS A MAJOR PROBLEM WITH MOST CALIBERS SO I STUCK IT OUT BUT NOW I DONT KNOW WHATS GOING TO HAPPEN. AS OF TODAY, AUGUST 24, 2015, MY CAR IS NOT RUNNING SINCE IT LOST ALL POWER LAST NIGHT, FIRST THE RADIO STOPPED, THEN THE AC STOPPED BLOWING, THEN THE LIGHTS THAT WORK STARTED TO DIM, AND THEN IT JUST DIED. PLEASE HELP!!!

STARTED TO HEAR SQUEAKING AND CLANGING NOISES IN THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF MY CAR. IT WOULD MAKE THE NOISES WITH EVERY BUMP AND ESPECIALLY COULD HEAR IT GOING DOWN HILLS. THEN THE STEERING WHEEL WOULD WOBBLE AND IT FELT LIKE I WAS DRIVING ON A FLAT TIRE, BUT TIRE PRESSURE WAS FINE. WHEN IT STARTED TO BE ALL OVER THE ROAD, LIKE I WAS CONSTANTLY HYDRO-PLANNING, I RESEARCHED ON LINE AND FOUND THAT THIS PARTICULAR YEAR AND MODEL OF CAR HAS MAJOR PROBLEMS WITH THE CONTROL ARMS, BALL BEARINGS AND TIE RODS. I MADE AN APPOINTMENT WITH MY MECHANIC AND TOLD HIM I THOUGHT IT WAS THE PASSENGER SIDE CONTROL ARM. HE CHECKED IT OUT AND IT WAS BOTH CONTROL ARMS WITH CONNECTED BALL BEARING, BOTH TIE RODS AND BOTH SWAY BAR END LINKS NEEDING REPLACED. HE ALSO DISCOVERED THAT THE TIRES THAT HAD BEEN PUT ON NOT EVEN 9 MONTHS AGO WHERE SHOWING THREADS. COST OF REPAIR NOT INCLUDING THE NEW TIRES AND ALIGNMENT WAS $887. WILL BE UP OVER $1000.00 AFTER TIRES ARE REPLACED AND ALIGNMENT IS COMPLETE. I WAS AFRAID TO DRIVE ON WET PAVEMENT, HAD VERY LITTLE CONTROL OF THE CAR. WAS ALWAYS CORRECTING THE STEERING WHILE DRIVING, IT JUST PULLED AND WHEN I HIT A BUMP IT WOULD JERK TO THE SIDE WHERE THE BUMP WAS. *TR

FIANCE HAD A SEIZURE AND CAR WENT TO SIDE OF ROAD. CAR FLOPPED ON THE LEFT DRIVER SIDE AND CRASHED INTO TREES. AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY, SEAT BELTS WERE INTACT AND WORKING. PREVIOUSLY, SEAT BELTS WERE FOUND TO UNLATCH AT TIMES WHEN DRIVER WAS IN CAR AND CAR WAS IN MOTION. AMAZED THAT SEAT BELTS WORKED BECAUSE IT SAVED OUR LIVES. AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. *TR

I CALLED DODGE CHRYSLER ABOUT THE FACT THAT MY CAR NEEDS: 2 REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS, 2 LATERAL LINKS, STRUTS, BELLOWS, 2 SWAY BAR LINKS,BUSHINGS AND 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENTS. NOT TO MENTION THE ABNORMAL WEAR I'VE HAD ON THESE TIRES, WHERE, CHRYSLER DEALERSHIPS HAVE TOLD ME YOU CAN'T DO WHEEL ALIGNMENTS ON THE REAR OF THE CAR. IT NEEDS 1700.00 WORTH OF REPAIRS. THE CAR IS NOT THAT OLD BUT I DON'T THINK IT SHOULD NEED THIS MUCH REPAIR. I UNDERSTAND YOU CAN'T GET PARTS FOR THIS CAR. NO RECALL? THERE ARE SO MANY OTHER OF THESE CARS WITH SIMILAR PROBLEMS. *TR

ACCELERATED FROM RED LIGHT TO GET ON TO THE FREEWAY, CAR LURCHED FORWARD AND STALLED. POWER WAS LOST AND HAD TO LIMP TO SAFELY GET TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. ELECTRONIC THROTTLE LIGHT (BARS WITH LIGHTNING BOLT) CAME ON. SHUT THE CAR COMPLETELY OFF AND RESTARTED, DROVE 20 FEET AND THE SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN. SHUT THE CAR OFF AGAIN FOR 5-7 MIN AND WAS ABLE TO SAFELY GET OFF THE FREEWAY. TOOK IN TO PRIVATE MECHANIC THE NEXT DAY AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE THROTTLE BODY IT SELF WENT BAD AND HE AS SEEN THIS A LOT WITH DIFFERENT MODELS OF DODGE VEHICLES, YET NO RECALL HAS BEEN ISSUED. IS GOING TO COST ME $500 TO GET IT FIXED. I BOUGHT THE CAR BRAND NEW IN 2006 SO WARRANTY IS OUT DUE TO AGE. *TR

EVERY TIME I GO OVER A BUMP IT MAKE A HORRIBLE SQUEAKING/ JERKING MOTION I'VE LOOKED ON THERE AND IT SEEMS EVERYONE IS HAVING THE SAME ISSUES, I REPLACED THE STRUTS THINKING THAT WAS IT AND IT SEEMED THE SOUND GOT WORSE. I SHOULDN'T BE REPLACING ALL THIS THAT EARLY, THIS CAR HAS NOTHING BY HIGHWAY MILES. IT LITERALLY SOUNDS LIKE MY TIRES ARE GONNA FLY OFF. THIS REALLY WORRIES ME BECAUSE I HAVE SMALL CHILDREN. *TR

I HAVE A 2007 CALIBER R/T I'M AT ABOUT 183,000KM. EARLIER THIS WEEK ALL THE LIGHTS IN MY CLUSTER STARTED FLASHING, AND THE CHIMES STARTED SOUNDING. MY CAR WENT INTO WHAT THEY CALL "LIMP" MODE WHERE THE CAR SHUTS DOWN AND THE FASTEST YOU CAN GO IS 60KM/HR ON A FLAT ROADWAY (AND IT HAS TO BUILD UP TO THAT SPEED). I WAS TOLD THAT THE CONNECTIONS TO MY TIPM (TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE) HAD BECOME CORRODED AND THAT I WOULD HAVE TO HAVE IT REPLACED ($1000 FOR THE PART, THEN THERE'S LABOUR ON TOP OF THAT). ON TOP OF THAT I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO CHECK ALL THE WIRING TO ENSURE THAT ALL THE CORROSION WAS TAKEN CARE OF, WHICH WOULD PROBABLY COST A WHOLE BUNCH OF MONEY SEEING AS THERE IS A WHOLE LOT OF WIRING THAT WOULD HAVE TO BE CHECKED. THE SERVICE MANAGER ALSO TOLD ME THAT CHRYSLER/DODGE IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE AND THAT IT IS ALL DUE TO FAULTY DESIGN. WHY SHOULD I HAVE TO REPLACE SUCH AN INTEGRAL PART AFTER THE LENGTH OF TIME THAT I'VE HAD THE CAR. I COULD UNDERSTAND SOMETHING LIKE A GENERAL WEAR AND TEAR PART GOING, BUT TO HAVE TO FORK OUT OVER $1500 DOLLARS TO REPAIR JUST SEEMS RIDICULOUS. THE TIMP (FUSE BOX) IN THE CALIBERS FAIL FREQUENTLY (THIS IS A SAFETY DESIGN FLAW THAT NEEDS RECALLED) THE COST OF THE TIMP IS NOT CHEAP!!!!!!! *TR

YOU CAN TURN THE CAR OFF BY BUMPING THE KEY/IGNITION WITH YOUR KNEE. LET'S SAY YOU ARE ON A LONG DRIVE AND SHIFT IN YOUR SEAT. IF YOU KNEE PUSHES INTO THE KEY, THE ENGINE WITH TURN OFF AND YOU'LL LOSE POWER. SEEMS TO BE MORE PRONE TO HAPPEN TO TALLER PEOPLE, AS THEIR KNEES ARE CLOSER TO THE IGNITION. ON THREE OCCASIONS THIS HAPPENED UNTIL I FIGURED OUT HOW IT HAPPENED AND AM NOW CAREFUL TO NOT BUMP IT. THE FIRST TIME WAS ON A CITY STREET AND THE SECOND TWO WERE ON AN INTERSTATE. IT CAN BE QUITE SCARY TO LOSE YOUR POWER STEERING AND POWER BRAKES, AND I FEEL VERY LUCKY TO HAVE BEEN ON A LONG, STRAIGHT SECTION OF INTERSTATE WITH LITTLE TRAFFIC. *TR

THE VEHICLE HAD NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES AND AIR CONDITIONING ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. AFTER SOME TIME THE VEHICLE'S LEFT LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. WHEN REPLACED IT STILL DID NOT WORK. THE VEHICLE'S ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHECKED AND FOUND TO BE FUNCTIONAL. WITHIN A WEEK AFTER THIS OCCURRENCE THE VEHICLE COULD NOT BE STARTED WITHOUT A "JUMP" AND EVEN SO WOULD LOSE POWER ONCE PARKED AND COULD NOT BE STARTED AGAIN. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE AUTO MECHANIC, SPECIFICALLY AN AUTO ELECTRICIAN, AND WAS TOLD IT WAS THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $700 PLUS LABOR. IN RESPONSE TO THIS I RESEARCHED THE PART AND CAME ACROSS NUMEROUS PEOPLE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM AND THE SAME EVENTUAL DIAGNOSIS. THE CAR HAS BEEN ESSENTIALLY UNDRIVABLE AND UNSAFE. THERE WAS THE CONSTANT WORRY THAT THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WOULD HAPPEN WHILE ON THE EXPRESSWAY AND CAUSE VERY UNSAFE CONDITIONS FOR MYSELF AND OTHERS ON THE ROAD. IT IS MY OPINION A RECALL NEEDS TO BE ISSUED FOR THIS PROBLEM. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HAVING THE VEHICLE MAINTENANCED, THE MECHANIC ADVISED THAT THE FUEL PUMP WIRING HAD CAUGHT FIRE, BURNED THROUGH THE FUEL PUMP AND INTO THE FUEL TANK. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 152,000. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A PRIVATE MECHANIC, WHO STATED THAT THE WIRING TO THE FUEL PUMP HAD OVERHEATED AND BURNED THE FUEL PUMP. THE CONTACT WAS CONCERNED THAT THE FAILURE COULD HAVE LED TO A FIRE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE WAS REPORTED TO THE MANUFACTURER. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 86,000. UPDATE 09/06/13*LJ

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT VEHICLE MADE A LOUD NOISE WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO TWO INDEPENDENT MECHANICS FOR INSPECTION. THE FAILURE WAS LOCATED AT THE SUB FRAME, WHICH WAS SEVERELY CORRODED AND FRACTURED. THE CONTACT WAS ADVISED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 124,000.

THE TIPM IS BAD, AND APPARENTLY IT'S A PROBLEM WITH THESE VEHICLES. RECALL THEM TO BE FIXED PROPERLY! THANKFULLY, MINE IS ONLY A HEADLIGHT, BUT I'VE READ WHERE ALL OF A SUDDEN EVERYTHING GOES AND THE CAR WILL ONLY GO 40 MPH. *JB

MY ENGINE STALLS WHEN AT STOP LIGHT/SIGNS. THIS HAPPENS AFTER REFUELING THE CAR. I HEARD OF OTHER CHRYSLER/DODGE MODELS THAT HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM THAT ARE BEING INVESTIGATED THOUGH MY CAR IS NOT THE SAME ENGINE OR YEARS BEING LOOKED AT. ENGINE IS 2.4 L. IT DOES THIS FOR UP TO ABOUT 10 TIMES AND I CAN KEEP IT RUNNING IN NEUTRAL AND REVVING THE ENGINE. NOT SURE OF THE DATE THAT I FIRST NOTICES THIS BUT HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR ABOUT A YEAR OR SO. MILEAGE AND DATE ARE FROM LATEST TIME. *TR

CAR IS HARD TO START CRANKS VERY SLOW AND THERE IS A TAPPING SOUND LIKE A BAD LIFTER UPON STARTING BUT GOES AWAY WHEN THE CAR WARMS UP. THE WHEEL BEARINGS HAD TO BE REPLACED. ALIGNMENT WAS WAY OFF AND TIRES HAD TO BE REPLACED. BRAKES HAVE TO BE REPLACED. THERE IS A HOLLOW NOISE FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. AFTER JACKING THE CAR UP TO CHECK THAT SOUND OUT THE REAR PASSENGER WHEEL WOULD NOT COME OFF THE GROUND. AFTER REPLACING THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND NEW TIRES THE CAR NOW SHAKES AND VIBRATES IN THE FRONT END. THE CAR HAS BEEN AT THE REPAIR CENTER FOR 10 DAYS ON AND OFF. THIS LAST TIME IT HAS BEEN THERE FOR 6 DAYS AND COUNTING. THESE VEHICLES ARE UNSAFE FOR THE ROAD AND SHOULD BE RECALLED AND TAKEN OFF THE ROAD PERMANENTLY. THERE ARE WAY TOO MANY PROBLEMS WITH THESE VEHICLES AND THE MANUFACTURER WILL NOT DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. NHTSA NEEDS TO STEP UP AND HOLD THE MANUFACTURER ACCOUNTABLE BEFORE SOMEONE GETS SERIOUSLY INJURED OR KILLED. DO NOT WAIT UNTIL THERE IS A FATALITY! ACTION NEEDS TO BE TAKEN NOW! *TR

ON THE DAY OF THE INCIDENT MY CAR STARTED JERKING AND ACTED LIKE IT WOULD DIE WHEN I GAVE THE CAR GAS. I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC WHO DID AN OIL CHANGE AND CHECKED THE ENGINE CODES. I PICKED THE CAR UP FROM THAT MECHANIC AND THE CAR WAS STILL DOING THE SAME THING. I TOOK IT TO ANOTHER MECHANIC AND THEY UPDATED THE COMPUTER ON THE CAR, CHANGED THE PLUGS AND FLUSHED THE MOTOR. THE CAR IS STILL DOING THE SAME THING. THE OTHER DAY I WAS ACCELERATING UP A HILL AND THE RED LIGHTNING BOLT LIGHT CAME ON THE CAR WAS STILL RUNNING BUT WAS NOT GETTING ANY GAS. I PULLED OVER AND STOPPED THE CAR AND STARTED IT AGAIN AND DID NOT ACCELERATE OR ANYTHING TILL I GOT TO MY DESTINATION. SEEMS LIKE THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR THAT NEEDS TO BE DEALT WITH. I HAVE SPENT OVER $400 TRYING TO SOLVE A PROBLEM THAT SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM WITH THIS TYPE OF DODGE. *TR

WHILE DRIVING EARLIER THIS MONTH, MY CAR SUDDENLY SLOWED DOWN TO 15 MPH AND WENT INTO LIMP MODE. I COULD BARELY GET THE SPEED UP TO 35 MPH AND KEEP IT AT 35 TO GET THE CAR HOME. AFTER CALLING A LOCAL AUTO SHOP AND TWO AREA DEALERSHIPS (GO DODGE ARAPAHOE AND CHRISTOPHER'S DODGE WORLD), I CAME TO DISCOVER THAT THE THROTTLE BODY WAS WORN. THE REPRESENTATIVE FROM THE SHOP SAID THAT THIS IS SOMETHING HE HAS OFTEN SEEN. INDEED, AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH ON CALIBER FORUMS, IT SEEMS THAT THIS HAPPENS VERY FREQUENTLY TO 2007 CALIBERS. THIS IS AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS PROBLEM THAT IS HAPPENING VERY FREQUENTLY IN 2007 DODGE CALIBERS. SOMEONE COULD GET HURT OR KILLED IF THEIR CAR SUDDENLY SLOWS TO 15-35 MPH WITH NO WARNING. IT IS DANGEROUS, IRRESPONSIBLE, AND IMMORAL FOR CHRYSLER TO CONTINUE TO ALLOW PEOPLE TO DRIVE THE 2007 CALIBERS WITH THE KNOWLEDGE THAT THESE CARS ARE EQUIPPED WITH A FAULTY PIECE OF EQUIPMENT THAT CAUSES THE CAR TO RAPIDLY DECELERATE. *TR

THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT STOPPED WORKING AFTER FLICKERING ON AND OFF FOR A FEW WEEKS. I CHECKED THE WIRING, CHANGED THE BULB, CHECKED FOR LOOSE CONNECTIONS AND ALL FINE. DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND THAT THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) IS THE CAUSE. IT APPEARS FROM WHAT I HAVE SEEN THAT NUMEROUS PEOPLE WHO HAVE CALIBERS AND PT CRUISERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM. THE TWO WAYS I HAVE SEEN TO FIX THIS IS TO BUY A NEW TIPM FOR $500-$800 DOLLARS, NOT INSTALLED, OR REWIRE IT TO THE PASSENGER LIGHT WHICH MAY CAUSE A FIRE. THIS IS TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE! TO RELY ON A $500-$800 PART TO MAKE SURE A HEADLIGHT WORKS? DODGE NEEDS TO BE FORCED TO RECALL THE PART OR PROVIDE OWNERS AVAILABLE OPTIONS AT CHEAPER RATES! THIS IS VERY POOR AND I HOPE THAT NHTSA WILL ASSISTS THE 1,000'S OF OWNERS WHO ARE EXPERINCING THIS PROBLEM. THANK YOU!

THE FIRST SIGNS OF A PROBLEM WERE A CLICKING SOUND WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL. IT DID NOT HAPPEN EVERY TIME, AND I DID NOTHING ABOUT IT UNTIL DECEMBER, WHEN A PORTION OF A STRAP WITH ELECTRICAL WIRE EMBEDDED BEGAN TO PROTRUDE FROM THE UPPER STEERING COLUMN. IT SOON BEGAN TO BE A NUISANCE AS THE PORTION GREW LONGER AND WOULD CATCH ON THE STEERING POSITION ADJUSTMENT KNOB. I GREW ALARMED WHEN THE AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON, AND TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP. THEY SAID IT WAS A BROKEN CLOCKSPRING, AND THEY HAD TO ORDER THE PART. IT COST ME OVER $300 TO GET THIS REPAIRED, AND NOW I SEE TOYOTA IS DOING A RECALL FOR THIS EXACT SAME THING, A SPIRAL CABLE ASSEMBLY THAT BECOMES DAMAGED FROM TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL. IT IS A POOR DESIGN. TOYOTA IS REPLACING THIS WITH A BETTER PART, BUT I DO NOT THINK DODGE DID THAT, AND I HAD TO PAY TO GET THIS REPLACED. I AM CONCERNED IT COULD HAPPEN AGAIN, AND BELIEVE THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL BY DODGE ALSO. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT ILLUMINATED AS THE VEHICLE ERRONEOUSLY DECELERATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE REPLICATED. THE CONTACT ALSO MENTIONED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED ABOUT THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,000.

WHILE DRIVING ON I40 FROM WILMINGTON, NC THE CAR JUST SHUT OFF UNEXPECTEDLY THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT(LIGHTNING BOLT) CAME ON, CAR WAS HARD TO CONTROL, WAS SLOWLY ABLE TO GET THE CAR OFF THE ROAD AND RESTARTED, MOMENTS AFTER RESTART WHILE TRYING TO PULL BACK ONTO THE HIGHWAY IT CUT OFF AGAIN, AFTER ATTEMPTING TO GET GOING SEVERAL TIMES IT FINALLY STARTED AND DID NOT CUT OFF UNTIL WE REACHED OUR DESTINATION. THIS HAS HAPPENED DOZENS OF TIMES NOW WITH NO LUCK FINDING A FIX OR BEING ABLE TO PROPERLY DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THIS IS A TERRIBLY SCARY SITUATION TO BE IN ON THE HIGHWAY , I WISH NHTSA WOULD INVESTIGATE THIS PROBLEM AS I SEE THIS HAS BEEN REPORTED TO THEM HUNDRES OF TIMES FOR THIS MODEL YEAR THE OLDEST REPORT OF THIS WAS IN 9/2006 TO A BRAND NEW 2007 CALIBER THIS IS CRAZY , SOMETHING MUST BE DONE. DODGE IS CONSISTENTLY RIPPING PEOPLE OF WITH REPAIR BILLS THAT DONT SEEM TO BE REPAIRING THE PROBLEM AS YOU CAN READ IN SEVERAL OF THE COMPLAINTS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE FAILED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO USE THE HIGH BEAMS ONLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A PRIVATE MECHANIC, WHERE THE HEADLIGHTS WERE REPLACED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE FAILURE WAS NOT REPORTED TO THE MANUFACTURER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 69,500. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 70,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED AS SOON AS THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND AN AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED BY BOTH THAT THE PCM MODULE WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED BUT OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 92,318. UPDATED 05/10/13*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED THE MANIFOLD WAS FAULTY AS WELL. UPDATED 05/17/2013 *JS

WHILE GOING DOWN I75 THE TRANSMISSION WENT INTO LIMP MODE SLOWED THE CAR DOWN TO 10 MPH ON THE FREEWAY LUCKILY WE HAD SOMEONE FOLLOWING US SO WE WOULDN'T GET HIT...WE HAD TO HAVE MY TOWED 2.5 HRS AWAY FROM WHERE WE LIVE TO HAVE IT FIXED CAUSE NO DEALS WITH THE CVT'S...REALLY NEED TO HAVE A RECALL ON THIS...THIS IS WAY TO DANGEROUS...IT ONLY GOES IN REVERSE WHEN IT GOES INTO LIMP MODE...PLEASE INVESTIGATE THIS... THE DEALER WANTS 3000.00 JUST FOR TRANSMISSION WHICH THE NEED TO FIX FOR FREE CAUSE THEY KNOW WHAT THESE CVT'S DO.. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS. THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE FAILURE RECURRED ONE HOUR LATER. THE VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO THE DEALER BUT AGAIN, THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DETERMINED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 100,000.