2007 Dodge Caliber Complaint Log

MY CAR HESITATES WHEN GOING UP HILL . IT LOOSES ALL POWER AND ONLY DRIVES 5-10 MPH AND WONT GAIN ANY SPEED TILL IM ON FLAT GROUND OR HEADING DOWN HILL.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE K FRAME PREMATURELY RUSTED WITH EXTENSIVE CORROSION AND THERE WAS A NOISE WHEN TURNING COMING FROM THE LOWER FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS RUST ON THE WHEEL FRAME NEAR THE DRIVERS SIDE TIRE WHEEL FRAMING AS WELL. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 124,680.

THE CROSSMEMBER IS RUSTED AND HAS A HUGE WHOLE IN IT. I GET REGULAR OIL CHANGES AT THE DODGE DEALER, WITH NO MENTION OF THE CROSSMEMBER ISSUE. STARTED HEARING NOISE IN FRONT END TOOK TO MECHANIC AND INFORMED OF ISSUE. AFTER SOME RESEARCH FOUND 10 YEAR EXTENSION OF WARRENTY ON THIS PART. WENT TO GET REPLACED AND FOUND OTHER SUSPENSION ISSUES CAUSED BY THE SEVERE RUST, WHICH THEY WILL NOT COVER. VEHICLE NOT SAFE TO DRIVE AND THE COST FOR US TO FIX IS MORE THAN THE WORTH OF THE CAR!! AT THIS POINT HAVE NO TRADE IN VALUE FOR CAR...

TURN SIGNALS START TO FAIL, EVEN WITH THE FAULTY BULB REPLACED NEWLY REPLACED BULB DOES NOT WORK. BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP AND DIAGNOSED THE TIPM (TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE) IS FAULTY. CHECKED THE INTERNET AND FORUMS FOR SIMILAR ISSUES OTHER OWNERS HAVE WORSE ISSUES SUCH AS HEADLIGHTS RANDOMLY GOING OUT, STALLING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS FAILING... THAT THEY ARE ENCOUNTERING DUE TO A FAULTY TIPM WHICH CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE. THE CLOCKSPRING FAILURE CAUSES THE AIRBAG WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON WHICH SIGNIFIES THAT THE AIRBAG WILL NOT WORK WHEN IT NEEDS TO. THE CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM INTERMITTENTLY WORKS WHICH IS ALSO AFFECTED BY THE CLOCK SPRING. BOTH LOWER CONTROL ARMS BUSHINGS (LEFT AND RIGHT) HAVE BEEN REPLACED TWICE DUE TO WEAR. SEEMS EXCESSIVE WEAR BETWEEN 58K AND 80K MILES WITH MOSTLY HIGHWAY DRIVING ON SMOOTH ROADS.

AT LESS THAN 10 MILES PER HOUR THE REAR SUSPENSION FAILED WHILE TURNING ON TO A PUBLIC HIGHWAY. THE DRIVERS SIDE WHEEL ON THE BACK IS READY TO FALL OFF IT IS LAYING AGAINST THE COIL SPRING. THE CAR IS NO LONGER DRIVABLE. THIS IS ALL WITHIN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE FUEL TANK ALSO AND IN MY OPINION COULD BE A PUNCTURE RISK ALSO. THE CAR HAS 106779 MILES ON IT ,ONE OWNER WITH NO COLLISION REPAIRS EVER PERFORMED AND NO UNDERCARRIAGE DAMAGE EVER. CHRYSLER IS PERFORMING REPAIRS ON SELECT VEHICLES WITH THE SAME PROBLEM BUT REFUSE TO REPAIR THIS ONE. HAD THIS FAILURE OCCURRED AT HIGHWAY SPEED IT IS POSSIBLE THE RESULTS COULD HAVE BEEN CATASTROPHIC. THIS VEHICLE IS LESS THAN 9 YEARS OLD AND HAS SEEN VERY LITTLE WINTER WEATHER AND HAS NEVER BEEN IN A SALT AIR ENVIRONMENT. I SEE NO DIFFERENCE IN THIS PROBLEM AND THE ONE ASSOCIATED WITH TOYOTAS TRUCK FRAMES OF SEVERAL YEARS AGO. PLEASE HELP BEFORE SOMEONE DIES FROM THIS PROBLEM.

TAKATA RECALL- MY AIR BAG LIGHT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME, ALSO I HAD TO REPLACE THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE, IT WAS COMPLETELY FULL OF CORROSION. ALL OF THE FRONT AND BACK SUSPENTION HAD TO BE REPLACED, ALL CONTROL ARMS UPPER AND LOWER, STRUTS, THE WHOLE THING. THE TRANSMISSION WILL NOT SHIFT PROPERLY, CAUSING THE ENGINE TO STALL. I HAVE HAD THE SUSPENTION FIXED, AND THE ELECTRICAL REPLACED. THE TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGED BUT MECHANIC COULD NOT FIND OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. IT DOES NOT SHIFT PROPERLY WHEN ON HIGHWAY DRIVING, AND WILL NOT DOWN SHIFT WHEN STOPPING, CAR STALLS OUT. THE ELECTRICAL MODULE WOULD NOT PUT OUT ENOUGH POWER TO RUN THE LIGHTS, WIPERS, FAN OR RADIO. THIS CAR IS A REAL PIECE OF CRAP, DODGE SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF THEMSELVES FOR EVEN PUTTING IT ON THE MARKET. WE WANT ACTION, FOR WHAT WE PAID FOR THIS JUNK.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY, THE CROSS MEMBER OF THE VEHICLE BECAME SEVERELY RUSTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 140,000.

DRIVING ALONG TEMP SENSOR FOR WHAT I FOUND OUT LATER WAS FOR TRANSMISSION STARTS FLICKERING MAKING THE CAR GO 10 MILES AN HOUR GET TO STOP LIGHT CAR SHUTS OFF HAVE TO TURN KEY OFF AND ON AND HOPE I DON'T GET HIT FROM BEHIND THIS HAPPENS OFF AND ON BUT NOW HAS BECOME CONSTANT CAN'T EVEN DRIVE ANYWHERE THEN TO TOP IT OFF I FIND OUT ITS A COMMON COMPLAINT AND FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS WHO CAN AFFORD IT I WILL NEVER OWN ANOTHER CAR THAT HAS THE T.I.P.M. TO DELICATE AND FROM WHAT I GATHER A KNOWN PROBLEM TO DODGE HELP ME FOOT THE COST SO I DON'T LOSE MY JOB OH I WAS COMING TO A STOP AT A RED LIGHT IN THE CITY

MY MOTHER TOOK HER CAR TO HER LOCAL AUTO MECHANIC IN TOWN BECAUSE THE MUFFLER WAS RATTLING. THE MECHANIC TOLD HER THE CAR WAS UNSAFE AND NOT DRIVABLE BECAUSE THE FRAME IS TOTALLY ROTTED. THE CAR FRAME HAS SANK AND NOW IS HITTING THE EXHAUST SYSTEM. THAT WHAT WAS CAUSING THE RATTLE. THE MECHANIC WAS ABLE TO POKE A SCREW DRIVER THRU THE FRAME TUBE. MOM HAS BEEN TOLD BY HER MECHANIC AND A ANOTHER CAR DEALER THAT THE CAR WAS WORTH LESS AND NOT DRIVABLE. VERY FRUSTRATED I CALLED DODGE CUSTOMER SERVICE TO TRY AND UNDERSTAND HOW A 2007 CAR WAS NOT DRIVABLE AND WORTHLESS. DODGE CUSTOMER SERVICE STATED TO BRING THE CAR TO A DODGE DEALER AND THAT THEY WANTED TO GET HER BACK ON THE ROAD RIGHT AWAY. WE BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE RAMSEY DODGE DEALER, SAME PLACE WHERE SHE PURCHASED THE CAR. THE DEALER TOLD US THAT DODGE HAS A CAMPAIGN ON THIS EXACT PROBLEM, OF ROTTED FRAME TUBES AND THAT HER EXTENDED WARRANTY WAS STILL GOOD FOR THREE ADDITIONAL MONTHS. WE HAVE BEEN DENIED A RENTAL CAR UNTIL WE AGREE TO PAY FOR ADDITIONAL RUSTED/ROTTED PARTS AND LABOR TO MAKE THE NECESSARY ROTTED FRAME REPAIRS. THE ESTIMATE IS FOR $1,191.00 IN PARTS AND $910.00 IN LABOR PLUS TAX OF $210.00. THIS IS THE SAME LABOR THAT WOULD HAVE TO BE PERFORMED WITH THE ROTTED FRAME TUBE REPAIR. THE ADDITIONAL PARTS THAT THEY SAY ARE REQUIRED IS BECAUSE THEY ARE ALSO TO RUSTED/ROTTED TO BE REUSED. THIS IS UNCONSCIONABLE. DODGE AND THE DODGE DEALER ARE TRYING TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF MY MOTHER. SHE NEEDS THIS CAR. ROBERT IS THE DEALER SERVICE WRITER AND THE CASE # IS 30051333. HER CAR HAS BEEN AT THE DEALER SINCE 9/2/2016. I WILL ATTACH A PHOTO OF THE ESTIMATE. THESE VEHICLES ARE UNSAFE AND SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM THE ROAD BEFORE SOMEONE IS KILLED.

THE HORN STOP WORKING ON MY 2007 DODGE CALIBER I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE ANY RECALL ON THIS.

TAKATA RECALL I HAVE A 2007 DODGE CALIBER AND THE AIRBAG LIGHT WANT GO OUT AND I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THIS LIGHT AND THE RECALL FOR THE AIRBAGS IN THESE CAR. THANK YOU. THERE IS NOTHING THAT HAVE HAPPEN RIGHT NOW BUT I DON'T WANT ANYTHING TO HAPPEN I NEED THIS FIX BEFORE SOMETHING DO HAPPEN. *TR

HELLO, I HAVE A 2007 DODGE CALIBER . I WAS DRIVING BACK FROM UPSTATE NY TO CT AND THE OVERHEATING TRANSMISSION CAME ON . THEN IT STARTED WINNING , IT LOST SPEED EVEN THOUGH I PRESSED THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR . THE RPMS WENT SKY HIGH TO ALMOST 6, BUT I WAS MOVING SLOW . SOMETIMES MY BACK WIDOWS DON'T GO UP OR DOWN . PASSENGER HEAD LIGHT DON'T WORK .. I JUST WANT TO KNOW WHAT'S HAPPENING . THEN I DRIVE IT TO MY MECHANIC AND THEY CHECK IT NEXT DAY AND THEY SAY ITS FINE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH, AN ABNORMAL NOISE EMITTED FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SUB FRAME HAD CORRODED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 90,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL CLICKING NOISE COMING FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT OBSERVED THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS SEVERELY CORRODED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 117,000.

FOUR FOUR MONTHS NOW MY CAR HAS INTERMITTENTLY EXPERIENCED ELECTRICAL FAILURES INCLUDING STUTTERING, DASHBOARD LIGHTS FLASHING ON AND OFF, WINDSHIELD WIPERS COMING ON THEIR OWN AND TOTAL SHUTDOWN ALL WHILE THE CAR IS IN MOTION AT VARYING SPEEDS. I HAVE HAD MY ALTERNATOR REPLACED TWICE, MY BATTERY REPLACED AND MY SPARK PLUGS CHANGED OUT. I HAVE RESEARCHED AND AM FAIRLY CERTAIN IT IS MY TIPM WHICH IS A COMMON PROBLEM FOR MY MAKE AND MODEL OF CAR THAT DODGE HAS DECIDED ISN'T WORTH THEIR TIME TO FIX. I HAVE ALMOST CRASHED MULTIPLE TIMES DUE TO THE RANDOM FAILURE OF MY TIPM AND THUSLY FIND IT UNSAFE TO DRIVE MY VEHICLE ANYMORE.

BOUGHT CAR USED IN 2014. WITHIN A WEEK THE MANIVERTER NEEDED REPLACED. DASH LIGHTS RECENTLY STOPPED WORKING WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT. CANNOT SEE SPEEDOMETER OR OTHER GAUGES AT NIGHT. TRANSMISSION STOPS WORKING WHEN IT IS HOT OUT , TRANS TEMP LIGHT COMES ON AND TRANS SHUTS DOWN WHEN DRIVING ON HIGHWAYS WHICH HAS ALMOST CAUSED NUMEROUS ACCIDENTS. CAR STALLS SEVERAL TIMES AFTER FILLING WITH GAS CAUSING DANGEROUS SITUATIONS WHEN DRIVING ESPECIALLY PULLING OUT INTO TRAFFIC AFTER FILLING GAS TANK. CONTROL ARMS AND BALL JOINTS ON FRONT OF CAR REPLACED WITH PARTS FROM DODGE DEALER AND ARE BAD FOR A SECOND TIME . WE WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER DODGE VEHICLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE AT AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR ROUTINE SERVICE, THE TECHNICIAN NOTICED THAT THE ENTIRE SUBFRAME WAS RUSTED THROUGH. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 186,624.

MY LEFT HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. CHANGING THE BULB DID NOT FIX IT. I WAS TOLD IT WAS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE THAT WOULD COST $1000. AFTER SEVERAL MONTHS, THE CAR STARTED TO STALL OUT AND HAVE TROUBLE ACCELERATING. WHEN THE CAR STALLS OUT IT WON'T START FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. I WOULD BE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AT 60 MPH AND THE CAR WOULD JUST DIE. THE WORST SITUATION IS WHEN I WAS DRIVING UP A HILL AND MY CAR STALLED. I HAD TO STOP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD AND TURN IT OFF FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE IT WOULD START AGAIN. I WAS TOLD THIS WAS RELATED TO THE SAME ELECTRICAL ISSUE AND THE TIPM NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH, I FOUND THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM FOR THIS CAR. IT WAS A DEFECT IN MANUFACTURING THAT CAUSES A VERY HIGH NUMBER OF THE TIPM MODULES TO EVENTUALLY FAIL. THIS IS NOT RIGHT AND SHOULD BE FIXED BY DODGE.

RUSTED SUB FRAME

CROSSMEMBER DETACHED FROM VEHICLE WHILE DRIVING CAUSING LOSS OF STEERING DUE TO FRONT DRIVERS WHEEL AND AXLE BECOMING DETACHED. TOOK OUT CONTROL ARM,CV JOINTS , TRANSMISSION COOLING LINES. IT LEFT SKID MARKS IN PAVEMENT WHERE THE TIRE DUG IN. ACTUALLY RIPPED THE TREAD ON NEW TIRE. COME TO FIND OUT THIS IS AN EXTENDED WARRANTY THROUGH DODGE. HOWEVER IF YOUR NOT THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF THE VEHICLE YOU MAY NOT BE NOTIFIED BECAUSE IT IS NOT A RECALL.

EXTENSIVE CORROSION FRONT AND REAR CROSS FRAME MEMBRANE. MAKING VEHICLE DANGEROUS TO DRIVE. DODGE KNEW OF THE PROBLEM AND EXTENDED THE WARRANTY BUT DID NOT INFORM ALL OWNERS.

YESTERDAY I HAD MY CAR CHECKED FOR A LEAK. THIS WAS FIXED AND THE MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT MY ENGINE CRADLE IS RUSTED THROUGH. THEY HAD ME LOOK AT THE UNDERCARRIAGE AND I COULD NOT BELIEVE WHAT I SAW. I TAKE GOOD CARE OF THIS CAR, IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN GARAGE KEPT WITH SUGGESTED MAINTENANCE CHECKS TAKEN. THIS IS ALSO VERY FRUSTRATING TO ME AS I JUST HAD MY CAR FIXED (NEW MANIFOLD ALONG WITH VALVES, GASKETS, O-RINGS, OIL CHANGE, RADIATOR CAP AND RADIATOR FLUSHED AND RE-FILLED) BY A DODGE MECHANIC AND WAS NOT INFORMED ABOUT THIS. THE CAR WAS SEEN AT DODGE IN FEBRUARY (RE-CHECKED IN MARCH AND APRIL) THEN TAKEN TO ANOTHER MECHANIC IN JUNE. THANKFULLY I TOOK THE CAR SOMEWHERE ELSE OR I MIGHT HAVE HAD AN ACCIDENT, MALFUNCTION OR OTHER ISSUE. HOW DO I GET THIS ISSUE TAKEN CARE OF...IT SHOULD NOT HAVE RUSTED OUT LIKE IT DID. NOT WITH THE KIND OF CARE I GIVE TO MY CARS.

I'M WRITING THIS COMPLAINT ABOUT MY 2007 DODGE CALIBER. AFTER NINE YEARS AND ONLY 79K MILES OF WORKING VERY WELL FOR ME, I SUDDENLY HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE TRANSMISSION ON MY WAY TO WORK. AT A STOP LIGHT IN THE LEFT TURNING LANE OFF OF A HIGHWAY, ABOUT ONE MINUTE FROM MY JOB, THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN AND I PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR BUT MY CAR DIDN'T MOVE FORWARD. THE ENGINE WAS ON AND I COULD HEAR REVVING SOUNDS FROM THE ENGINE BUT MY CAR JUST DIDN'T MOVE. I WAS STUCK. AFTER GETTING IT TOWED TO SEVERAL MECHANICS, ONE WAS ACTUALLY ABLE TO CHECK THE PROBLEM. THEY TOLD ME I HAD A TORQUE CONVERTER LOCKUP. OF COURSE, THEY COULDN'T FIX IT AND REFERRED ME TO ANOTHER SHOP. THAT SHOP COULDN'T FIX IT EITHER AND MY ONLY CHOICE WAS TO GO TO THE DODGE DEALERSHIP! NATURALLY, THEIR PRICE TO FIX IT WAS HUGE AT A WHOPPING $4,500! I WAS FURIOUS WITH THE COST AND THE FACT THAT MY CAR ISN'T EVEN TEN YEARS OLD AND I'M HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE TRANSMISSION! HOW CAN I PAY ALMOST FIVE GRAND TO FIX IT WHEN MY CAR IS BARELY WORTH THREE? PLEASE BE CAREFUL BUYING A DODGE CALIBER. IT MIGHT WORK WELL FOR AWHILE BUT YOU CAN BET AT SOME POINT IN THE NEAR FUTURE IT WILL FALL APART ON YOU!

I'VE OWNED THE CAR SINCE NEW, RECENTLY WE HAD A PROBLEM WITH A DEAD BATTERY. AFTER REPLACING THE BATTERY, THE CAR WOULD NOT GO MORE THAN 20 MILES PER HOUR AND WE HAD ENGINE FAULT CODES. ONCE WE CLEARED OUT THE CODES, THE CAR RAN FINE. HOWEVER, WE NOW HAD A FRONT HEADLIGHT THAT WAS OUT. REPLACING THE BULB DIDN'T WORK. THE ONLY WAY TO GET THE FRONT HEADLIGHTS BOTH ON WAS TO TURN ON THE HIGH BEAMS. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH FROM A DODGE DEALERSHIP AND ON THE INTERNET, I HAVE FOUND THE ISSUE IS WIDESPREAD AND DUE TO POOR DESIGN OF THE FUSE BOX ON THESE VEHICLES, ALSO KNOWN AS THE TIPM. I BELIEVE THE DRAIN ON THE BATTERY WAS CAUSED BY THE POOR DESIGN OF THE TIPM AND WITH THAT ONE INCIDENT, STARTED THE FAILURE PROCESS. THIS VEHICLE HAS 150,000 MILES ON IT AND HAS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED. I HAVE REPLACED THE TIPM WITH A USED ONE FROM A AUTO SUPPLY YARD, I STILL GET INTERMITTENT STARTING OF THE VEHICLE AND WHILE BOTH HEADLIGHTS ARE WORKING, THE HIGH BEAMS ARE NOW NOT WORKING.

MY 2007 CALIBER IS PARKED I WILL NOT DRIVE IT BECAUSE THE FRAME IS RUSTED OUT SO BAD IT IS NOT SAFE FOR ME AND MY KIDS. MY MECHANIC TOLD ME TO NOT DRIVE. THIS CAR IS NOT EVEN 10 YEARS OLD IT DEFINITELY SHOULD NOT BE RUSTED LIKE THAT! VERY DISAPPOINTING.

MY CAR WILL AS I'M DRIVING CUT OFF LOSE ALL POWER STARTS SHAKING JERKING AND WON'T ABOVE 5TO7 MILES AN HOUR HAPPENS ALL TIME DRIVING WITH MY KIDS FROM SCHOOL IT DOES ON FREEWAY VERY UNSAFE ALMOST GOT REAR-ENDED A COUPLE TIMES VERY SCARY

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, ANOTHER VEHICLE CRASHED INTO THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED HEAD, NECK, AND SHOULDER INJURIES THAT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED AND TOWED TO A POLICE LOT. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 154,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNKNOWN SPEED, THE FRAME OF THE VEHICLE FRACTURED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE CONTACT'S RESIDENCE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 87,476.

THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER ON THIS CAR HAS SIGNIFICANT CORROSION CAUSING A LARGE HOLE AND LOSS OF INTEGRITY BASED ON A DEALER INSPECTION. IT HAS NOT ACTUALLY FAILED AT THIS TIME. THE ESTIMATED REPAIR COST FROM THE DEALER IS $1209 INCLUDING $665 FOR A REPLACEMENT CROSS MEMBER. THE MANUFACTURER HAS STATED TO ME THAT THIS IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS ORIGINALLY SOLD IN CANADA. I OWN ANOTHER 2007 CALIBER AND THIS SAME PROBLEM WAS ACKNOWLEDGED TO BE A DEFECTIVE PART. A LETTER WAS SENT REQUESTING THAT I TAKE IT TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION AND POSSIBLE REPAIR. THE DEALER RECENTLY COMPLETED THE REPAIR ON THAT VEHICLE AT NO COST TO ME.

THE VEHICLE STALLS AT RED LIGHTS / INTERSECTIONS AFTER FILLING THE GAS TANK. IT DOES STOP AFTER SOME OF THE GAS IS USED. IT HAS NOT OCCURRED WHEN DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY, ONLY ON CITY STREETS. IN HAVING THE CAR EXAMINED, THERE IS A FAULTY VALUE ON THE GAS TANK, WHICH APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM. IT IN SPEAKING WITH CHRYSLER, THEY ARE UNWILLING TO ASSIST.

I NOTICED THAT MY CAR WAS MAKING CRUNCHING AND POPPING NOISES WHEN I TURNED SO I TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC, WHO TOLD ME THAT MY CROSSMEMBER UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE WAS SEVERELY CORRODED AND NEEDED REPLACED. AND TO NOT DRIVE IT UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY.

ENGINE CRADLE COMPLETELY RUSTED. CAR IS NOT DRIVEABLE. TOOK THE CAR IN FOR SERVICE DUE TO EXTREMELY BAD NOISE. WAS SHOWN CONDITION OF ENGINE CRADLE AND BAD STRUTS DUE TO ENGINE CRADLE COMPLETELY RUSTED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT UNKNOWN SPEEDS, AN ABNORMAL SOUND EMITTED FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE SUB FRAME HAD TO BE REPLACED DUE TO CORROSION. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

2007 CALIBER. 30,068 MILES ON CAR AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS ARE BAD AND NEED TO BE REPLACED. NOISE IN FRONT END.MECHANIC SAID BORDERLINE FAILURE

RCVD A LETTER IN 2013 REGARDING FRONT AND REAR CROSS MEMBERS NEEDING AN INSPECTION & POSSIBLE REPAIRS. I DID NOT GET THIS INSPECTED AS RECOMMENDED. I WENT TODAY TO HAVE CAR PRE-INSPECTED FOR PA INSPECTION & WAS TOLD WHAT MECHANIC CALLED FRONT SUB-FRAME WAS RUSTED THROUGH & EXTREMELY WEAK AND THE REAR WASN'T FAR FROM BEING RUSTED THROUGH. ALSO WARNED IF I WAS IN AN ACCIDENT IT WOULD FOLD BECAUSE OF BEING WEAK & MAKES IT DANGEROUS TO DRIVE. CALLED LOCAL DODGE DEALER & DODGE'S CORPORATE CUSTOMER SERVICE & I COULDN'T GET IN TO HAVE DODGE INSPECT FOR 10 DAYS. HOPEFULLY THE "CROSS MEMBERS" & WHAT MY MECHANIC CALLS "SUB-FRAME" IS ALL THE SAME AND IS COVERED UNDER 10 YR EXTENDED WARRANTY. HTTPS://CUSTOMERCONNECT.CUSTHELP.COM/APP/MOBILE/FIAT/B2C_DETAIL/A_ID/24689

MY SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, TOOK IT TO ADVANCE AUTO AND IT POPPED CODES P2006, P1607, P0722, P0717. I CHANGED ALL CODES EXCEPT P1607 BECAUSE THEY WERE CHEAPER. THE PCM RUNS 299.00 OR MORE AND I CANNOT AFFORD THAT. MY VEHICLE BARELY MADE IT HOME, IT HAD VERY LITTLE POWER. AFTER CHANGING THE SENSORS, IT RUNS SMOOTH UNTIL YOU PUT IT IN GEAR, (SERVICE LIGHT STILL ON AND BLINKING) THEN IT SHAKES SO BAD AND HAS LIMP POWER. I CANNOT GET BACK TO ADVANCE TO RUN CODES AGAIN AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF I NEED TO RE PROGRAM THE PCM? WHERE CAN I GET THIS DONE? THE NEAREST DODGE DEALER IS IN CROSSVILLE, TN, A 45 MINUTE DRIVE AND I AM SCARED TO DRIVE THIS THING. I SWEAR, I WISH I NEVER WOULD HAVE BOUGHT IT, WORST CAR EVER. PLEASE HELP ME GET THIS RUNNING RIGHT AGAIN, I AM STILL PAYING FOR IT. IT HAS BEEN PARKED SINCE MARCH 2016.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS UNDERGOING SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE, THE MECHANIC INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE FRAME WAS SEVERELY RUSTED AND THE STRUTS COULD NOT BE CHANGED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 20 MPH, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE HIGH AND LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS ON THE PASSENGER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ILLUMINATE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE BULB NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE BULB WAS REPLACED. HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TAKEN TO A DEALER, WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 62,000.

UPON COMPLETELY FILLING THE FUEL TANK, THE ENGINE REPEATEDLY STALLS AFTER I'VE DRIVEN IT FOR A FEW MINUTES. IT DOESN'T MATTER IF I'M ON THE FREEWAY OR IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION TRYING TO MAKE A TURN, THE ENGINE JUST DIES. THIS ISSUE HAS THE POTENTIAL TO CREATE A VERY HAZARDOUS IF NOT LIFE THREATENING SITUATION.

HAVE HAD SEVERAL BATTERIES, STARTERS AND ALTERNATORS REPLACED OVER THE PAST 3 YEARS. CAR HAS 140,000 MILES ON IT. RECENTLY THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT ON. NOW WHEN IT RAINS, THE DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS GO OFF LIKE A CHRISTMAS TREE WITH THE THE WARNING BELL SOUNDING. CAR WON'T GO OVER 20MPH. IF I TURN IT OFF AND THEN ON AGAIN (SOMETIMES AFTER A FEW TRIES) IT STARTS UP FINE. LIKE THE CAR BUT CAN'T AFFORD WHATEVER IS WRONG TO FIX IT.

RT HEADLIGHT NOT WORKING. I REPLACED BULB BUT LATER FOUND OUT THAT MY FUSE BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED . APPARENTLY THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE. LIGHT ALL OF A SUDDEN STOPPED WORKING. IT LIMITS MY VISIBILITY AT NIGHT AT POSSES A THREAT TO DRIVERS WHO DON'T SEE ME WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT.

LEFT FRONT LO BEAM QUIT WORKING. TOOK TO SHOP TO REPLACE AND WAS TOLD THAT THE TIPM IS BAD AND WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF ALMOST 1000.00. BELIEVES REAR WIPER MAY ALSO BE EFFECTED.

CAR GOES IN TO LIMP MODE DO TO TRANSMISSION OVER TEMP WHEN DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS UNDERGOING AN INSPECTION, THE TECHNICIAN NOTICED THAT THE FRONT CROSSMEMBER UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE WAS CORRODED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 86,601. UPDATED 05/10/16*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY. UPDATED 12/11/2017*JS

REAR SUBFRAME IS ROTTING AND UNSAFE TO DRIVE. LICENSE MECHANIC INSPECTED THE VEHICLE.

DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT DOES NOT WORK. REPLACE LIGHT TWICE, NEITHER ONE WORKS. HIGH BEAM WORKS, BUT NOT LOW BEAM. HAVE BEEN TOLD NEED TO REPLACE TIPM (MAIN FUSE BLOCK). APPEARS TO BE TYPICAL PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR.

DRIVING 15-20 MPH IN RESIDENTIAL SUBDIVISION CAR VEERED RADICALLY TO THE RIGHT INDEPENDENT OF STEERING STRIKING PARKED VEHICLE. RIGHT FRONT TIRE TURNED RIGHT BEYOND MAXIMUM AND IS PINNED AGAINST WHEEL WELL. LEFT FRONT TIRE STRAIGHT AND ALIGNED PROPERLY WITH STEERING WHEEL. RIGHT TIE ROD BENT 180 DEGREES WITH THREADED PORTION BENT PARALLEL TO IT'S SELF. OBVIOUS CATASTROPHIC FAILURE OF STEERING/SUSPENSION ON RIGHT FRONT SIDE OF VEHICLE THAT HAD THE FAILURE OCCURRED AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS DEATH OF SERIOUS INJURY WOULD LIKELY HAVE RESULTED. THE VEHICLE IS A ONE OWNER DODGE CALIPER WITH 33,827 MILES, SERVICED REGULARLY AT FAIR OAKS DODGE, CHANTILLY VA

TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE PROBLEMS. HAVING ALL KINDS OF CASCADING ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR WITH ONLY 70K MILES. DRIVER'S SIDE LOW BEAM WILL NO LONGER WORK. ENGINE INTERMITTENTLY STOPS/STARTS. ACCELERATION ISSUES, ETC. CHRYSLER WANTS OVER A $1,000.00 TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE, AND THE REPLACEMENT TIPM WOULD LIKELY FAIL IN SIMILAR MANNER SHORTLY THEREAFTER. EXTREMELY UNSAFE CAR DAY OR NIGHT.

BOUGHT VEHICLE USED AT 95000 MILES. 2 YEARS LATER AT ABOUT 120000MILES BOTH CONTROL ARMS WERE REPLACED. NEW TIRES INSTALLED AND ALIGNMENT PERFORMED. LESS THAN TWO YEARS AFTER REPLACEMENT, AT ABOUT 145000MILES, CONTROL ARMS AND BALL JOINTS ARE BAD ONCE AGAIN AND NEED TO BE REPLACED. TIRES AS WELL DO NOT LAST MORE THAN A YEAR AND A HALF ON THIS VEHICLE.

I PURCHASED A 2007 DODGE CALIBER ON NOVEMBER 15, 2015 AND HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE ACCELERATION AND THE CAR HESITATING AS IF IT WERE A MANUAL SHIFT. I CONTACTED THE DEALER WHO ASKED ME TO BRING THE CAR IN. I TOOK THE CAR IN THE THE SERVICE ALLEGED THAT THEY LOOKED AT THE CAR AND SAID THAT THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT AND THAT WAS HOW THE CAR ACCELERATED BECAUSE OF THE KIND OF TRANSMISSION THAT THIS CAR HAS. THE CAR CONTINUED TO HAVE THIS JERKING, HESITATING PROBLEM UNTIL FINALLY THE "THROTTLE BODY" LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR SHUT DOWN AND I WAS NOT ABLE TO ACCELERATE ABOVE 25 AND HAD TO EXIT THE HIGHWAY BECAUSE I DID NOT WANT TO GET KILLED BECAUSE OF ALL THE KINDS OF TRUCKS AND OTHER ON THE HIGHWAY AS WELL. I AM NOW WITHOUT A WORKING VEHICLE BECAUSE OF THE THROTTLE BODY AND HAVE TO FIND A WAY AND SPEND MORE MONEY TO GET IT REPAIRED. I PAID $8000 CASH TO THIS DEALER AND I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED AND STRESSED. PLEASE HELP. *JS