2010 Dodge Caliber Complaint Log

MY VEHICLE HAS A MANUAL TRANSMISSION. IN JANUARY 2015 THE TRANSMISSION FAILED AND THE POWERTRAIN WAS REPLACED. AFTER THAT, WHEN SHIFTING, OCCASIONALLY THE ENGINE WOULD REV AS IF I HADN'T TAKEN MY FOOT OFF THE ACCELERATOR WHEN DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH AND IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT. SOMETIMES THE VEHICLE WOULD SPEED UP ON ITS OWN AND OTHER TIMES IT TOOK FOREVER TO GET THE CAR UP TO POSTED SPEEDS. THE OCCASIONAL ENGINE REVVING BECAME MORE FREQUENT AS THE WINTER WORE ON AS WELL AS THE FAST/SLOW ACCELERATION MAKING THE CAR'S PERFORMANCE UNPREDICTABLE AND UNSAFE TO DRIVE. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP A SECOND TIME AND THEY DIAGNOSED "THROTTLE BODY FAILURE" AND REPLACED IT. THIS COST ME $572.68. I HAVE NOW HAD THE CAR BACK ONLY A COUPLE OF DAYS, BUT AM UNSURE IF THIS WILL HAPPEN AGAIN. ONLINE THERE ARE A LOT OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THROTTLE BODY FAILURE IN THE DODGE CALIBER. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED BEFORE SOMEONE IS KILLED OR INJURED BY AN UNCONTROLLABLE VEHICLE. *TR

STARTED MY CAR THIS MORNING AND LET IT RUN FOR AWHILE(5 MIN) UNTIL RPMS WENT DOWN, ITS 12 DEGREES OUTSIDE, I DROVE THROUGH MY PARKING LOT MAYBE 20 FT AND THROTTLE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON, I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IT WAS AT FIRST BUT I RESEARCHED WHILE LETTING MY CAR IDLE IT SORT OF PULSATED. WHEN I WENT TO ACCELERATE IT WOULD BARELY MOVE, THANK GOD I WAS NOT ON THE HIGHWAY AS I WAS ABOUT TO GO TO WORK. I'VE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR SINCE I BOUGHT IT 2 YRS AGO!! I ASKED THE DEALERSHIP FOR A SAFE RELIABLE CAR, AND THIS IS WHAT THEY FOUND SMH!! *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REAR ADJUSTABLE CONTROL ARMS OF THE VEHICLE WERE WELDED TO THE VEHICLE AND FAILED TO ADJUST. AS A RESULT, THE INSIDE OF THE REAR TIRES BECAME WORN. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE TIRES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED ON THREE OCCASIONS, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER WHERE THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE ADJUSTABLE CONTROL ARM NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,900.

POWER IN VEHICLE BEGAN TO DRAIN 47 MILES FROM MY HOUSE GOING 60 TO 75MPH AFTER GOING 75 TO 80 MPH TEMPERATURE OUT SIDE IS ABOUT 50 DEGREES. THE CAR ACTS AS IF IT WERE GOING TO STALL THE RADIO POWER WENT OUT. AFTER THAT I TESTED TO SEE IF IT WERE THE LIGHTS STILL WORKED AND UPON TURNING THE LIGHTS ON ALL LIGHTS IN THE CAR DIMMED COMPLETELY. I WENT 28 MILES TO MY APPOINTMENT WITH NO ACCESSORIES ON TO INCLUDE THE HEATER. AND RADIO WOULD NOT GET POWER UNTIL SITTING FOR 30MIN. ON THE TRIP RETURNING HOME 30MILES IN TO MY TRIP RETURNING HOME GOING 60 TO 75 MILES HIGHEST SPEED FOR 20MILES OF THE FIRST 30 MILES THE CAR POWER STARTED TO DRAIN. JUST TOOK IT TO BIG O TIRES TODAY AND WAS CONFIRMED NO BATTERY ISSUES THE BATTERY IS IN GOOD CONDITION. I HAVE TO SPEND $100 TO DO TESTING NOW. IT IS WINTER HERE I CAN NOT RISK MY LIFE IN A CAR THAT CAN NOT OPERATE IN THE COLD OR AFTER ONLY 44000 MILES ACTS LIKE IT WILL NOT OPERATE. IT HAPPENED BEFORE AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS LAST YEAR WHEN I HIT 35000 MILES. I DID SOME RESEARCH ONLINE THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED IN WARMER CLIMATES AS WELL AT 55000 MILES. PLEASE LOOK IN TO THIS I NO LONGER TRUST MY CAR TO DRIVE 75MPH ON HIGHWAY. AND I DEAR NOT GO 75MILES AWAY FROM HOME IF IT CAN'T TAKE A 150 MILE TRIP ITS NOT WORTH PAYING OF A CAR LAST CHECK THE LOAN IS $11,000. IF THE PROBLEMS WERE KNOWN THE CAR SHOULD HAVE NEVER BEEN RESOLD BY ANY DEALER. IF I WAS NOT ABLE TO USE ANOTHER CAR I WOULD BE MORE UPSET THAN I AM NOW THIS CAR IS ONLY GOOD FOR AN ELDER TO GO TO THE STORE AND BACK. I WONT BE USING THIS CAR OUTSIDE MY CITY LIMITS ITS NOT SAFE. *TR

I HAD TOOK MY CAR TO GET SERVICE AT JIFFY LUBE WITH A AIR FILTER AND OIL CHANGE. WHEN DRIVING TO SCHOOL I SLOWLY STARTED TO NOTICE A STRANGE SMELL AND DECIDED TO RETURN TO JIFFY LUBE. WELL ON MY WAY THE PROBLEM INCREASED AND SMOKE AND FLAMES STARTED APPEARING, THAT'S WHEN I QUICKLY GOT OUT THE CAR AND CALLED 911. I HAD ONLY MADE IT A BLOCK AWAY FROM REACHING JIFFY LUBE WHEN INCIDENT OCCURRED . *TR

WHILE DRIVING MY CAR MY TRANSAXLE OVERHEATING LIGHT WILL ILLIMINATE. MY CAR WILL SLOW DOWN AND NOT KEEP THE SPEED UP. I HAVE TO PULL OVER UNTIL THE LIGHT GOES OUT THEN I CAN CONTINUE MY DRIVING BUT IT WILL DO IT ALL AGAIN 10 MILES DOWN THE ROAD. THIS HAPPENS ABOUT AN HOUR AFTER DRIVING IT ON THE HIGHWAY AT 70 MPH I WAS JUST ON A TRIP 2 HOURS FROM HOME. IN A 30 MINUTE TIME FRAME I HAD TO PULL OVER 6 TIMES BECAUSE OF THIS. I HAVE NOT TAKEN IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND IT HAS NOT BEEN FIXED. I HAVE NOTICED MANY PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WHY HAS THIS NOT BEEN RECALLED YET?

PER MY MECHANIC THE BALL JOINTS NEED REPLACED. HAVING SPOKEN WITH OTHER CALIBER OWNERS, IT SEEMS FAIRLY UNANIMOUS THAT THEY HAVE REPLACED OR NEED TO REPLACE THE BALL JOINTS ON THEIR CARS NOT LONG AFTER THE MANUFACTURER WARRANTY EXPIRES. FURTHER IT IS RECOMMENDED TO REPLACE THE WHOLE LOWER CONTROL ARM. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 52,500.

MY 2010 DODGE CALIBER HAS STARTED THIS SPUTTERING THING. I INDICATED SEVERAL PROBLEMS BECAUSE I JUST DON'T KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. SOMETIMES IT HESITATES TO START AND I HAVE NOTICED THAT INTERMITTENTLY IT HAS SORT OF JERKED, BUT TODAY, IT JUST SPUTTERED AND TRIED TO SHUT DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION AS I WAS TURNING INTO ONCOMING TRAFFIC. ALTHOUGH I HAVE OWNED THIS VEHICLE FOR A LITTLE OVER 3 YEARS, THE MILEAGE IS ONLY 53,000 MILES. I AM OLD AND DISABLED. I DON'T KNOW WHAT I WOULD HAVE DONE IF I HAD TO WALK. IT ACTS LIKE IT IS EITHER A PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMISSION OR THAT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS TRYING TO SHUT IT DOWN. I AM NOT SURE. BEFORE I GO PUTTING FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER IN IT OR, TRY DOING ANYTHING ON MY OWN, I NEED SOME ANSWERS. ALSO IT ISN'T EVEN PAID FOR YET! IT WAS A "PROGRAM" VEHICLE BEFORE I BOUGHT IT. HOWEVER THE ISSUES THAT HAVE BEEN GOING ON WITH THE SPUTTERING STARTED ABOUT JAN. 2014. I NEVER HAVE RECEIVED NOTICE OF ANY RECALLS BUT I AM ABOUT TO TAKE IT TO THE DODGE DEALER AND FIND OUT WHAT IS GOING ON. I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED THAT THIS IS GOING ON. I AM OLD AND NEED MY VEHICLE TO COMPLETE EVERY DAY TASKS. I ALSO DON'T GO ANYWHERE VERY OFTEN AND DON'T KNOW WHERE TO TAKE MY VEHICLE BECAUSE OF THE MONEY HUNGRY MECHANICS THAT ARE KIND OF SHADY OUT THERE, AND I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO ABOUT THIS. I READ NUMEROUS REVIEWS ON HERE AND I DO THINK I MAY BE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE OF MANY REGARDING THE TRANSMISSION, HESITATION, AND SEEMS TO BE TRYING TO SHUT DOWN ON ME IN THE MOST UNLIKELY PLACES, LIGHT COMING ON AND SYSTEM SHUTTING DOWN AND TRYING TO STALL. SOMEONE NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS IMMEDIATELY! *TR

WHILE DRIVING OUR 2010 DODGE CALIBER ON THE INTERSTATE FOR APPROXIMATELY 1 HOUR IN HEAVY TRAFFIC AT 75MPH THE CAR SUDDENLY STARTS TO LOSE SPEED. THE COOLANT LIGHT CAME ON AND A HIGH PITCH, WHINING SOUND CAME FROM THE ENGINE. WE IMMEDIATELY HAD TO GET OFF THE INTERSTATE. THERE IS NO WARNING AND THE CAR STARTS TO LOSE POWER. THE RPM'S GO UP. WE PULLED OFF TO THE SIDE, THE CAR IS IN LIMP MODE. NO POWER AND WILL NOT START. CALLED DODGE 3-4 TIMES AND THEY ONLY HAD RECORD OF 2. THIS HAS HAPPENED 10 DIFFERENT OCCASIONS ON THE INTERSTATE. THE CAR IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE LONG DISTANCE. I TOOK IT INTO THE DEALERSHIP TO BE LOOKED AT AND THEY SAID IT WAS A SERVICE PROBLEM. IT IS A DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION AND THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL BEFORE THERE IS A FATALITY. WHEN YOU TALK TO CHRYSLER CUSTOMER CARE CASE MANAGEMENT OR THE DEALERSHIP YOU GET THE RUN AROUND AS TO WHAT THE PROBLEM IS OR WHAT MILEAGE THE ACTUAL TRANSMISSION SERVICE SHOULD BE DONE. I DO KNOW THAT YOUR LIFE SHOULD NOT BE IN JEOPARDY IF IT IS A SERVICE ISSUE. WHEREAS THIS IS A DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL. CHRYSLER INITIATED THE CALL BACK AFTER THEY KNEW I HAD MADE AN APPOINTMENT TO GET THE CAR LOOKED AT. I HAVE GOTTEN DIFFERENT STORIES FROM BOTH CHRYSLER CUSTOMER CARE CASE MANAGEMENT AND THE DEALERSHIP AS TO JUST HOW MANY OF THE 2010 DODGE CALIBERS HAVE THIS TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. WHEN I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY HADN'T SEEN ANY THAT WENT INTO LIMP MODE, BUT AFTER THEY DID THEIR DIAGNOSTIC THEY SAID THEY HAD SEEN 100'S. THAT'S A BIG DISCREPANCY!!! I DO NOT WANT ANYONE TO BECOME A STATISTIC!!! *TR

I WAS AT A LIGHT IN 3 LANE TRAFFIC WHEN THE LIGHT CHANGED MY CAR BEGAN LUNGING AND SPUTTERING FINALLY LOSING POWER. THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT BEGAN FLASHING. I CAN'T EVEN FIND A DIAGRAM ONLINE TO TELL ME WHERE THAT IS LOCATED. ON CALIBER FORUMZ THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. I LOVE MY CAR BUT IT REALLY MUST BE DEPENDABLE. IT WOULD SEEM WITH ALL THE COMPLAINTS THAT THIS ISSUE WOULD BE ADDRESSED. *TR

WE GOT ON THE FREEWAY FOR 30MINS AND THE TRANSMISSION TEMP LIGHT CAME ON. THEN IT STARTED SMELLING LIKE SOMETHING WAS BURNING. THE CAR STOPPED GAINING SPEED AND WE TOOK IT BACK TOO THE DEALERSHIP. WE FEEL THIS CAR IS NOT SAFE FOR THE FAMILY. THERE IS TAPPING SOUNDS COMING FROM THE DASHBOARD AND IT HAPPEN ALL THE TIME, EVEN WHEN THE CAR IS NOT RUNNING. THEY NEED RECALL THIS CAR- *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 75 MPH, THE TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURE LIGHT ILLUMINATED. IN ADDITION, THERE WAS A BURNING ODOR AND THE VEHICLE DECREASED IN SPEED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 89,000.

IMAGINE CRUISING DOWN THE TOLLWAY AT 75 MPH WHEN THE ENTIRE PANEL LIGHTS UP LIKE A CHRISTMAS TREE AND YOU HAVE NO POWER TO THE ENGINE. I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY PULL OF ON THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD. I TURNED OFF THE IGNITION AND WAITED. I TRIED TO START THE ENGINE AND NOTHING, NOT A MOAN, NOTHING. IT IS NOT THE BATTERY. IN A TIME FRAME OF ABOUT 15 MINUTES, I WAS ABLE TO START THE CAR AND THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT REMAINED ON. MY MECHANIC COULD NOT DIAGNOSE THIS UNTIL IT WAS ACTUALLY ACTING UP. IT REPEATED THIS 4 - 5 TIMES OVER A 4 WEEK PERIOD. FINALLY, DIAGNOSED AS THE COMPUTER MODULE CONTROL. THIS IS AN $1100.00 REPAIR. HAS ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THIS? *TR

PURCHASED THIS CAR FOUR MONTHS AGO WITH 79,300 MILES ON IT. WITHIN A COUPLE OF DAYS IT STARTED ACTING UP, NOT WANTING TO START. I WENT TO THE ADVANCE AND THEY CHECKED THE BATTERY, STARTER, AND ALTERNATOR. MACHINE SAID REPLACE BATTERY SO I DID FOR $150 WITH 5 YEAR WARRANTY. LEFT AND WITHIN AN HOUR STILL DID NOT WANT TO START. SEEMED LIKE IT WAS PRONE TO DOING THIS WHILE SITTING UP OR DOWN HILL AND NOT FLAT ON PAVEMENT. IT WAS AS IF IT WANTED TO START AND WAS MAKING STARTING NOISES AND IT HAD TO CATCH AND THEN START UP. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP FROM WHICH I PURCHASED THE CAR AND THEY LOOKED AT IT NO CHARGE AND IT JUST WOULD NOT DO IT AGAIN. GUESS WHAT IT STILL DOES IT NOW AND OF COURSE THE FREEBIES ARE OVER BECAUSE IT WAS NO WARRANTY. I DID PURCHASE AN EXTENDED WARRANTY JUST IN CASE. ABOUT A MONTH AGO IT STARTED JERKING I WAS DESCRIBING IT AS OVER SHIFTING. AS I PROCEEDED TO COME OFF AN EXIT RAMP TO MERGE INTO TRAFFIC WHICH WAS GOING 60 MPH MY CAR STARTED JERKING REALLY BAD AND MY ETC LIGHT STARTED FLASHING, VERY SCARY I COULD HAVE GOTTEN HIT BY ONCOMING TRAFFIC.I SLOWED TO 55 MPH AND THE LIGHT WENT OFF. WENT TO THE DODGE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THROTTLE BODY WAS SO DIRTY IT NEEDED CLEANING. I GOT IT CLEANED THIS PAST FRIDAY AND GUESS WHAT WAS HAPPENING BY SATURDAY. WENT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP TODAY AND TOLD THE SERVICE ADVISOR TO DRIVE IT WITH ME IN THERE AND IT SHOWED OUT. HE SPEED UP ON THE FREEWAY AND THE LIGHT CAME BACK ON FLASHING AND WE WERE GOING SO SLOW HE TURNED ON THE HAZARDS. PULLED OVER TURNED IT OFF AND BACK ON AND LIGHT WAS OFF WE WENT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP AND I HAVE TO DROP IT OFF TOMORROW TO SEE IF ANYTHING CAN BE FIGURED OUT. I'M SURE YOU GUYS KNOW THE DRILL. BY THE WAY MY EXTENDED WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY GO FIGURE. SO YEAH ROUGH FOUR MONTHS AND ONLY 83,000 MILES ON THE CAR NOW. WE NEED A RECALL ON THIS MODEL AND A FEW MORE. *TR

THE BRAKE DOES NOT TOTALLY ENGAGE IN PARK. OFTEN THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START UNTIL THE GEAR HANDLE IS WIGGLED AND PLAYED WITH TO GET IT ALL THE AWAY ENGAGED.

WHILE DRIVING ON I-695 THE ETC LIGHT STARTS TO FLASH AND THE CAR BECOMES CRIPPLED. AFTER RESTARTING, THE CAR IS FINE FOR A FEW DAYS UNTIL THE LIGHT CUTS ON AND OFF OCCASIONALLY. NOW THE ETC LIGHT STAYS LIT EVEN AFTER RESTARTS. TAKING THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP TO SEE IF IT IS COVERED BY THE PLATINUM WARRANTY. *TR

2 MONTHS AGO I WAS DROPPING MY SON OFF AT SCHOOL AND I WENT TO TURN ON THE MAIN ROAD WHEN MY CAR STARTED BUCKING AND THEN I NOTICED A LIGHT WITH A LIGHTING BOLT FLASH AND I TURNED BACK AROUND AND WENT HOME AND READ MY MANUAL AND IT TOLD ME IF THE LIGHT DOESN'T STAY ON IT'S DRIVABLE LATELY IT'S BEEN BUCKING MORE THEN EVER AND SO I WENT ONLINE AND FOUND OUT THAT THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF CALIBER OWNERS WITH THIS SAME PROBLEM AND MY CAR HAS LESS THEN 60,000 MILES ON IT. IT SHOULDN'T BE HAVING PROBLEMS LIKE THIS ALREADY. I STILL DRIVE THE CAR BUT IT IS NOT A SAFE FEELING WITH KIDS IN THE BACK SEAT. *TR

STEERING COLUMN SHIMMIES WHILE DRIVING... ALSO THE ELECTRICAL HEATER/AIR CONDITIONING DOES NOT WORK JUST HAD IT REPLACED WITH A NEW MOTOR

NOTICED LOSS IN ACCELERATION POWER HERE AND THERE OVER A FEW MONTHS TIME AS WELL AS THE ECT LIGHT FLASH ON FOR A QUICK MOMENT A FEW TIMES. ONE DAY I WAS DRIVING AND CAME TO A STOP LIGHT AND WHEN I TRIED TO TAKE OFF FROM THE STOP THE WHOLE CAR STARTED SHAKING AND KNOCKING THEN CUT OFF ALL WHILE HAVING THE ETC LIGHT ILLUMINATED. ONCE THIS HAPPENED I COULD BARELY MAKE IT UP THE STEEP HILL BACK TO MY HOME. I ENDED UP HAVING THE CAR TOWED AND TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I WAS INFORMED I WOULD HAVE TO REPLACE THE THROTTLE BODY CONTROL UNIT FOR AROUND $700! I HAVE ONLY HAD THIS CAR 2 AND 1/2 YEARS AND THIS IS NOT THE FIRST MAJOR ISSUE. CHRYSLER NEEDS TO RECALL THE ECT THAT THEY ARE USING I ALSO HAVE A 2012 JEEP COMPASS THAT I HAVE HAD 2 MONTHS AND HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE ADDING AIR TO THE REAR DRIVER'S SIDE TIRE, THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE ALUMINUM AIR VALVE SHOT OUT AND CAUSED THE TIRE TO DEFLATE IMMEDIATELY. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO AN LOCAL MECHANIC, WHO STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS A COMMON OCCURRENCE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 57,000.

THE CAR HAS BEGUN TO SHIFT HARD AND NOT ENGAGE IMMEDIATELY WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE. THIS OCCURS WORSE IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC, WHEN THE CAR IS COLD, AND WHEN DRIVING UP HILL. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER, A TECHNICIAN DROVE IT AND WAS ABLE TO REPLICATE. HE CHECKED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID, WHICH WAS FINE AND DECIDED IT MUST BE THE MOTOR MOUNTS, BUT UPON FURTHER INSPECTION COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM WITH THEM. HE DROVE THE CAR AGAIN AND CHECKED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID IMMEDIATELY AFTER STOPPING. THE TRANSMISSION FLUID WAS FOAMING AND HE SUGGESTED A TRANSMISSION SERVICE ALTHOUGH THE CAR ISN'T DUE UNTIL 100,000 MILES AND MY VEHICLE IS AT 60,000. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION SERVICE DONE AND THE CAR APPEARED TO BE WORKING PROPERLY FOR AWHILE, BUT IS NOW EXHIBITING THE SAME SHIFTING/ACCELERATION ISSUES AS IT WAS BEFORE THE FLUID WAS CHANGED. *TR

MY CAR'S SPEED ACCELERATE/JUMPS WHEN STRUGGLING TO GET TO SECOND GEAR. *TR

MY DODGE HAS BEEN STALLING AT RED LIGHTS FOR THE PAST YEAR. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER TWICE AND THEY CANNOT REPLICATE THE ISSUE NOR CAN THEY FIND A CODE ON THE COMPUTER SCAN. THEY DO HOWEVER, RECOMMEND FLUSHES ETC. THE ISSUE HAS NOT GONE AWAY. IF I AM AT A RED LIGHT WITH THE AC ON (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION), IT WILL IDLE VERY LOUD AND ROUGH AND THE TACHOMETER WILL BOUNCE UP AND DOWN. IT WILL ALSO STALL OUT AT TIMES WHEN I MOVE MY FOOT FROM THE BREAK TO THE GAS. IF I TURN THE AC OFF IT WILL KEEP IT FROM IDLING ROUGH AND STALLING. I ALSO HAVE AN ISSUE WHEN I START MY CAR UP, PUT IT IN REVERSE THEN PUT IT BACK IN DRIVE; THAT I ALL ELECTRICAL POWER FOR 10 SECONDS. THE RADIO TURNS OFF, THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT AND OTHER DASH BOARD LIGHTS COME ON AND THEN THE ELECTRICAL POWER WILL COME BACK ON. IT IS ALMOST LIKE THE CAR IS RESETTING ITS SELF; I DO NOT LOSE MY RADIO PRESETS HOWEVER. *JS

AFTER HAVING RAIN ON THANKSGIVING DAY I WENT TO THE CAR TO LOAD UP LEFTOVERS AND RETURN HOME AND THERE WAS WATER ON THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR. THIS HAD NEVER HAPPENED BEFORE THIS DAY. *TR

WHILE DRIVING HOME FROM WORK THE CARS SPEED SUDDENLY DECREASED AND THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON. PULLED OVER SAFELY AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE. LIGHT REMAINED ON. TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE THROTTLE BODY MUST BE REPLACED. THE WHOLE THING MUST BE REPLACED SINCE IT'S COMPLETELY SEALED AND YOU CANNOT ACCESS PARTS INSIDE IT. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY LOST SPEED AND THEN IT WOULD NOT ACCELERATE OVER 30MPH. THE VEHICLE ONLY HAS 70000 MILES ON IT. DID SOME CHECKING ONLINE AND THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE WITH CALIBERS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE HEAD LIGHT COVERS WERE FORMING CONDENSATIONS, WHICH THE CONTACT WAS CONCERNED THAT THE FAILURE COULD POSSIBLY CAUSE AN ELECTRICAL SHORT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 52,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT ILLUMINATED THEN THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO STATED THE THROTTLE BODY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED ABOUT THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

STEERING WHEEL HAS A SLIGHT NOISE WHEN TURNING .IT FEELS LIKE A CLICKING SOUND WHEN I TURN THE WHEEL. *TR

WHILE PULLING INTO TRAFFIC FROM A PARKING LOT, THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE, DESPITE MY BEST ATTEMPTS, FINALLY AFTER SEVERAL SECONDS OF COASTING AND THE PEDAL PUSHED ALL THE WAY DOWN, THE VEHICLE JUMPED INTO ACCELERATION. DURING THIS INCIDENT, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I PROMPTLY TOOK IT TO THE DEALER, WHO RAN THE CODE AND IT SAID P0455 LARGE EVAC LEAK. THE DEALER RAN THE ESIM TEST AND VAC TEST WITH NO RESULTS. THEY TOLD ME THAT I PROBABLY HAD A LOOSE GAS CAP. I HAD NOT BEEN AT THE GAS STATION IN DAYS. ALSO, WHEN THE GAS CAP IS LOOSE, AN ERROR ABBREVIATION FOR GAS CAP SHOWS UP IN THE MILEAGE READOUT AND DOES NOT COME BACK ON AFTER THE CAP IS TIGHTENED. I HAVE NEVER HAD THE INCIDENT DESCRIBED ABOVE OCCUR BECAUSE OF A LOOSE GAS CAP. NO FURTHER WORK OR DIAGNOSIS WAS DONE ON THE VEHICLE. *TR

MY CAR WILL NOT START WITH THE FACTORY KEY, OR THE REPLACEMENT KEY. I GOT THE REPLACEMENT KEY ABOUT 1 YEAR AGO AND THIS THE THIRD TIME THAT BOTH KEYS WILL NOT CRANK THE CAR. I HAD TO WAIT 20 MINS IN THE HOT CAR UNTIL IT WOULD CRANK. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE TRAVELING 75 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS IN THE VEHICLE ALSO FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS MOVED TO THE SHOULDER WHERE IT WAS RESTARTED AND RESUMED NORMAL FUNCTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE REPLICATED. THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE CONTACT WAS AWAITING A SECOND DIAGNOSIS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED ABOUT THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,000.

I HAD BEEN DRIVING FOR A FEW HOURS AT APPROXIMATE 65 MPH. SOME OF WHICH WAS ON CRUISE. ALL OF A SUDDEN MY VEHICLE STARTED SLOWING DOWN. MY SPEEDOMETER SAID 60 MPH. HOWEVER, I WAS PROBABLY AT 30. I STEPPED ON THE GAS AND THE RPM WENT HIGH BUT I DIDN'T GET ANY SPEED. BASICALLY, THE SPEEDOMETER WASN'T RECORDING THE SPEED I WAS AT AND THE TRANSMISSION WAS NOT WORKING IN INCREASING SPEED. I HAD IT TOWED BACK TO PHOENIX AND THE DODGE DEALERSHIP IN MESA, AZ CHECKED IT OVER AND TOLD ME THAT THERE WAS A "FLUKE" WITH THE CTV TRANSMISSION IN THIS MODEL AND THEY HAD BEEN SEEING A LOT OF THIS AS PEOPLE WERE DRIVING FROM PHOENIX TO FLAGSTAFF WHICH IS A GRADUAL INCREASE OVER A NUMBER OF MILES AND PEOPLE WERE HAVING THE SAME ISSUES THAT I DID. I WAS TOLD THE CVT TRANSMISSION GOES INTO "LIMP" MODE WHEN THIS HAPPENS AND BASICALLY SHUTS DOWN. I WAS ALSO LED TO BELIEVE THEY COULD DO NOTHING ABOUT IT. I'M SURPRISED THERE ISN'T A RECALL ON THIS MODEL AND TRANSMISSION. WHEN I GOGGLED 2010 DODGE CALIBER TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS, I CAME UP WITH A UTUBE VIDEO DOCUMENTING EXACTLY WHAT I HAD EXPERIENCED. *TR

WHEN GETTING A JUMP FROM ANOTHER CAR THE COMPUTER WENT OUT HAD TO PAY A LITTLE UNDER $900 DOLLARS. THE STRUTS ARE ALSO GOING OUT. THE CAR IS MAKING A ROWING NOISE. SOMETIMES THE CAR DID NOT HAVE PICK UP OR SPEED WHEN STEPPING ON ACCELERATOR. *TR

CAR CONTINUES TO STALL AT STOPLIGHTS OR IN STOP-AND-GO TRAFFIC. COMPLAINED TO DODGE AND DEALER AGREED TO KEEP CAR FOR A WEEK TO TEST DRIVE AND REPLICATE ISSUE. THE TECHNICIAN DROVE FOR SEVERAL DAYS BUT THE CAR DID NOT STALL OUT. DEALER TESTED WIRING, CONNECTIONS, AND TERMINALS. NOTHING WAS FOUND. I WAS TOLD THAT THE ISSUE WOULD NEED TO BE VERIFIED TO PROPERLY DIAGNOSE AND REPAIR. *TR

THE CAR WOULD FAIL TO START USING REMOTE STARTER ON OCCASION THEN PROGRESSED TO STARTING W/REMOTE START BUT WHEN THE KEY INSERTED THE CAR WOULD SHUT DOWN. PROGRESSED WITH EXTRA PROBLEMS SUCH AS NOT HAVING POWER WHEN IT DID STAY RUNNING. WOULD ONLY GO 10 MPH, SPUTTERING, WITH ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL COMING ON. I TURNED CAR OFF AND TRIED AGAIN AND RAN FOR AWHILE AND REGAINED SPEED AND W/OUT MISSING/SPUTTERING. APPEAR RANDOM AND CONTINUED TO WORK AND IN HEAVY TRAFFIC CAR BEGINS TO RAPID DECENT IN SPEED (50 MPH TO QUICK DROP TO 10 MPH) WITH ETC LIGHT ON. WITH DROP DOWN IN SPEED/MOMENTUM AND NOT BECAUSE OF BREAKING THE REASON THAT LEFT NO INDICATION TO THE PERSON(S) BEHIND ME TO HAVE A WARNING. I PUT EMERGENCY FLASHERS ON AND GOT TO A SAFER PLACE. TURNED CAR OFF/ON, REPEATED SOMETIMES W/REMOTE WAS THE ONLY WAY TO START CAR BUT MANY TIMES PLACING THE KEY IN THE IGNITION ACTUALLY SHUT THE CAR DOWN. IMPROVED AT TIMES BUT WITH NO WARNING THE CAR WOULD GO INTO TO RAPID DECREASE IN SPEED AND EVEN TRY TO STALL AT TIMES, ESPECIALLY IF IT WAS COMBINED WITH BRAKING AT STOP SIGNS/SIGNALS/TRAFFIC. THE DEALERSHIP ONLY FOCUSED ON THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL AND SAID IT WAS COMPLETELY OUT. THE ACTUAL DAY I LEFT IT AT DEALERSHIP IT WAS RUNNING FINE THAT PARTICULAR MORNING. I HAVE HAD IT BACK 1 DAY BUT I AM VERY CONCERNED WITH A REPEAT HISTORY OF THIS DUE TO NO REAL WARNING BECAUSE THE LIGHT APPEARS AS YOU ARE ALREADY SHUTTING DOWN/SLOWING DOWN. BY THE TIME THE LIGHT COMES ON SOMEONE BEHIND ME COULD ALREADY HAVE HIT ME AND I USUALLY TRAVEL INTERSTATE AND THIS IS SCARY. THE CAR ALSO WANTED INCREASE ON A COUPLE OF MOMENTS BUT THIS WAS NOT AS MUCH AS THE REVERSE. CAR IS JUST OVER A COUPLE OF YEARS OLD & I HAVE ALSO JUST REPLACED THE DRIVER DOOR MECHANISM FOR THE WINDOW OPERATION (DROPPED WHEN IT BROKE). VENT SYSTEM REPAIRED. *TR

THE VEHICLE STALLS WITHOUT WARNING AS I AM COMING TO A STOP (SUCH AS A STOP LIGHT OR STOP SIGN). THERE IS NO WARNING IN THE WARNING LIGHTS AND THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. I HAVE HAD THIS HAPPEN NUMEROUS TIMES. I BOUGHT THE CAR USED AND HAVE HAD THE CAR UNDER A YEAR. I BOUGHT IT WITH ALMOST 39, 000 MILES ON IT AND ONLY HAVE 41, 800 ON THERE NOW. IT HAS BEEN TAKEN IN FOR SERVICE AT THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE AND THEY FOUND NOTHING WRONG. I AM HAVING THE SPARK PLUGS REPLACED AND HAVING A MAINTENANCE CHECK AS THEY SUGGESTED FOR A FEE....AND FOR A LARGER FEE (NEARLY 400.00) I CAN GET THE FULL SERVICE THEY THINK MAY ALLEVIATE THE PROBLEM?? I FIND THIS PROBLEM TO BE A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE AND HAVE SEEN WHERE OTHER OWNERS ARE COMPLAINING OF THE SAME PROBLEM. THIS CAN CAUSE A SERIOUS ACCIDENT AND WHEN WILL SOMETHING BE DONE ABOUT THIS? THERE SHOULD BE A RE-CALL ON THIS AS IT POSES A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

THIS VEHICLE HAS STALLED TWICE AND SPUUTERS AND JERKS INTERMITENTLY STOPPED AT A LIGHT, RAILROAD CROSSING OR OTHERWISE. WHEN IT STALLS I AM ABLE TO RESTART IT. IT HAS BEEN SEEN ON 5 DIFFERENTLY OCCASSIONS AND THE DEALERS STATE IT DOES NOT CODE SO THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO ABOUT. *TR

THE VEHICLE STALLS AT THE LIGHTS OR AT A STOP SIGN. NO OTHER TIME, FOR NO REASON IT SPUTTERS A LITTLE AND THEN STALLS. IT STARTS RIGHT AWAY. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DODGE DEALERSHIP AND BECAUSE THEIR COMPUTER DOESN'T FIND ANYTHING,THEY SAY THERE IS NOTHING WRONG, WELL EVIDENTLY THERE IS, AS IT SHOULDN'T STALL FOR NO REASON. I HAD THE SPARK PLUGS CHANGED AND STILL STALLS. FROM WHAT I HAVE READ ON LINE AFTER PURCHASING THE CALIBER MANY, MANY PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM, THIS COULD BE A VERY SERIOUS ISSUE IF THE CAR DECIDES TO STALL WHILE THE CAR IS IN MOTION. I AM HOPING VIA THIS EMAIL THAT SOMEONE CAN LOOK INTO THIS. THANK YOU *TR

THIS VEHICLE HAS STALLED TWICE AND SPUTTERS AND JERKS INTERMITTENTLY STOPPED AT A LIGHT, RAILROAD CROSSING OR OTHERWISE. WHEN IT STALLS I AM ABLE TO RESTART IT. IT HAS BEEN SEEN ON 5 DIFFERENTLY OCCASIONS AND THE DEALERS STATE IT DOES NOT CODE SO THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO ABOUT. TO DATE, (APRIL 11-2013) THE VEHICLE CONTINUES TO SPUTTER AND STALL AND DODGE DEALER SAYS IT DOES NOT CODE SO THEY CAN NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. THIS IS A VERY CONVENIENT EXCUSE FOR NOT FIXING A VEHICLE THAT IS STILL UNDER MFG WARRANTY. SOMETHING HAS TO BE DONE! THIS IS AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN AND I HOPE ITS NOT A BAD ONE. *TR

WHENEVER I HAVE THE LIGHTS ON, RADIO ON, FAN BLOWER ON, AND I'M STOPPED AT A LIGHT IN DRIVE MODE (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION), THE ENGINE SHAKES AND DIES. IT'S ALMOST AS IF THE CAR IS EXPERIENCING COMPUTER OVERLOAD. TOO MANY THINGS GOING ON FOR THE CAR TO HANDLE SO THE COMPUTER CRASHES CAUSING THE CAR TO DIE. THE CAR ALWAYS STARTS BACK UP. NO INDICATOR LIGHTS GO OFF ON THE DASH. IT ONLY HAPPENS OCCASIONALLY UNDER THE ABOVE MENTIONED CIRCUMSTANCES. IF YOU ADD ON THE FRONT & REAR WIPERS SAME THING HAPPENS. I'VE HAD IT CHECKED OUT AT 3 DIFFERENT PLACES, PAYING AND FOR FREE, AND THEY ALL TELL ME THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE ESPECIALLY SINCE I HAVE A BABY IN THE CAR. I HAVE AAA AND ROAD SIDE ASSISTANCE THROUGH MY INSURANCE BUT THEY ALWAYS TAKE AN HOUR TO GET TO YOU. I'VE NEVER HAD TO USE THEM BECAUSE THE CAR ALWAYS STARTS BACK UP AGAIN. THIS CAR NEEDS TO BE RECALLED BECAUSE OTHER WISE THE CAR FUNCTIONS NORMALLY AS LONG AS I DON'T HAVE THE LIGHTS ON, RADIO ON, FAN BLOWER ON, AND I'M STOPPED AT A LIGHT IN DRIVE MODE. IF YOU PUT IT IN NEUTRAL SOMETIMES THE CAR WANTS TO STALL BUT IT DOESN'T ALWAYS PREVENT THE CAR FROM SHUTTING DOWN. READ LOTS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS MODEL, SIMILAR ISSUE. *TR

WHILE DRIVING VEHICLE IN THE RAIN ON THE HIGHWAY AT ABOUT 45 MILES PER HOUR IN RUSH-HOUR TRAFFIC, THE CAR BEGAN TO JERK THIS LASTED FOR SEVERAL SECONDS BEFORE THE CAR COMPLETELY STALLED. IT RESTARTED IMMEDIATELY. TOOK TO DEALER WHO TEST DROVE AND FOUND NO ISSUES OR CODES. *TR

I PARKED MY CAR IN PARKING LOT WHILE CAR WAS IN DRIVE TURNED OFF THE IGNITION AND I WITHDREW MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION AND LEFT THE CAR. WHEN I RETURNED TO THE CAR 3 PEOPLE WERE LEANING AGAINST THE REAR OF THE CAR TO KEEP IT FROM ROLLING OUT INTO 2 OTHER CARS. THE DOOR WAS LOCKED AND THE SHIFT WAS STILL IN DRIVE. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD. THE DODGE MECHANIC FOUND THAT THE SHIFTER IS BROKEN INTERNALLY AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH A VEHICLE CRASHED INTO THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE OF THE VEHICLE BREAKING THE FRONT AXLE. WHEN THE CRASH OCCURRED THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE DRIVER WAS INJURED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO OFFERED NO EXPLANATION AS TO WHY THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

I WAS TRAVELING AT APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH WHEN I LOST CONSCIOUSNESS DUE TO ADVERSE REACTION TO A PRESCRIBED MEDICATION. APPROACHED RETRO-STYLE PICKUP TRUCK STOPPED AT RED LIGHT & BECAUSE OF BEING UNCONSCIOUS DIDN'T APPLY BRAKES TO SLOW DOWN & STOP. FRONTAL CRASH INTO REAR END OF STOPPED VEHICLE. AIRBAGS DIDN'T DEPLOY NOR DID SEATBELT ENGAGE TO PREVENT ME FROM BEING THRUST FORWARD FACE FIRST INTO STEERING WHEEL. INCURRED SIGNIFICANT DAMAGE TO FRONT TEETH & NECK/BACK STRAIN. WAS INFORMED BY CHRYSLER CORP. THAT AIRBAG SENSORS ARE POSITIONED TOO LOW FOR DEPLOYMENT. ALSO INFORMED BECAUSE I DID NOT APPLY BRAKES THIS WAS CAUSE FOR BOTH SEAT BELT NOT ENGAGING TO PREVENT FORWARD THRUST INTO STEERING WHEEL AND DEPLOYMENT IF AIRBAGS. ALSO WAS TOLD SEAT BELT & AIRBAG WILL NOT ENGAGE THEIR SAFETY FEATURES BECAUSE I DIDN'T APPLY BRAKES CREATING AN INERTIA EFFECT WHICH WOULD HAVE ACTIVATED BOTH SAFETY MECHANISMS. THIS IS DISTURBING @ MANY LEVELS AS: 1 HOW CAN AIRBAG SENSORS BE POSITIONED SO LOW THEY WON'T DEPLOY UPON IMPACT WITH VEHICLES HIGHER FROM GROUND THAN MINE? 2 WHEN UNCONSCIOUS BRAKES CANNOT BE APPLIED THEREFORE ENGAGING WHAT ARE SUPPOSED TO BE SAFETY FEATURES TO PREVENT INJURY OR DEATH? THIS WHOLE INCIDENT IS VERY UNSETTLING AS I NO LONGER FEEL SAFE DRIVING THIS VEHICLE. THESE ABOVE MENTIONED FAILURES OF SAFETY FEATURES NOT ENGAGING AT RELATIVELY HIGHER SPEED IMPACT INTO REAR END OF STOPPED VEHICLE IS NOT ACCEPTABLE & SHOULD BE THOROUGHLY INVESTIGATED. *TR

WHILE AT A STOP AND NOT DURING ACCELERATION, THE VEHICLE BEGINS TO SPUTTER AND CHUG AS IF IT IS GOING TO STALL; SOMETIMES IT STALLS, BUT STARTS RIGHT BACK. OTHER TIMES WHEN ACCELERATING, IT JUMPS BEFORE CATCHING AND ACCELERATING SMOOTHLY. TOOK CAR TO THE DEALER AND THEY WERE UNABLE DUPLICATE THE COMPLAINT AND NO CODES WERE FOUND. *TR

2010 DODGE CAILBER. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO FRONT WINDSHIELD PROBLEM. *TGW THE CONSUMER STATED WHILE DRIVING HOME, HE NOTICED SMALL CRACKS IN THE WINDSHIELD. SOME WERE STRAIGHT, BUT MOST WERE CURVED AND SOME WERE ALMOST A PART CIRCLE LIKE THE EDGE OF A BUBBLE. THE CONSUMER BELIEVED THE FLAWS WERE IN THE CENTER LAYER OF THE GLASS BECAUSE THE OUTER SURFACE SEEMED COMPLETELY SMOOTH. THE CRACKS COULD ONLY BE SEEN WHEN ONE LOOKED THROUGH THE WINDSHIELD INTO THE LIGHT. THE CRACKS CAUSED REFRACTIONS OF LIGHT THAT HINDERED THE VISION OF THE CONSUMER. THE CONSUMER SHOWED THE FLAWS TO THE SERVICE MANAGER AT THE DEALER. THEY WERE PHOTOGRAPHED AND SENT TO CHRYSLER CORPORATION. THEY AGREED THAT THE WINDSHIELD WAS FLAWED. A TECHNICIAN WAS SENT TO INSTALL A NEW WINDSHIELD. ONE EVENING WHILE DRIVING HOME, THE CONSUMER NOTICED THE NEW WINDSHIELD HAD THOUSANDS OF SMALL CRACKS JUST LIKE THE ORIGINAL ONE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER THE NEXT MORNING. THE CONSUMER WAS INFORMED THAT A FACTORY REP. WOULD NEED TO LOOK AT THE WINDSHIELD, SINCE IT WAS ALREADY REPLACED ONCE. OVER THE NEXT SEVERAL MONTHS, APPOINTMENTS WERE CANCELLED WITH THE FACTORY REP. FOR VARIOUS REASONS. THE SERVICE MANAGER CONTACTED THE CONSUMER AND INFORMED HIM AN APPOINTMENT HAD BEEN RE-SCHEDULED FOR THE FOLLOWING WEEK. HOWEVER, THE DAY BEFORE THE APPOINTMENT, IT WAS CANCELLED AGAIN. WHEN THE CONSUMER FINALLY MET THE FACTORY REP. HE POINTED OUT THAT THE CRACKS WERE IN THE OUTER LAYER OF THE GLASS BECAUSE HE COULD ROLL A FINE BALL POINT PEN ACROSS THEM AND HE COULD FEEL A DRAG AS IT CROSSED THE CRACK. THEN HE STATED IT WAS CAUSED BY GRAVEL. THE CONSUMER STATED IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE FOR GRAVEL OR ANYTHING ELSE TO IMPACT THE GLASS THAT WOULD CAUSE TINY CRACKS WITHOUT CAUSING CHIPS OR PITS. THE FACTORY INFORMED THE CONSUMER THERE WAS NOTHING MORE HE COULD DO. *JB

DATES & MILEAGE ARE APPROXIMATE. I'M NOT A MECHANIC AND I HAVE NO IDEA WHICH PART WOULD BE CAUSING THE PROBLEM. I GUESSED. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST 10 TIMES OVER THE PAST 3 YEARS. MY 16 YR OLD GRANDDAUGHTER RECENTLY TOLD ME HER OLDER CALIBER DID THE SAME THING! THIS LEAD ME TO BELIEVE IT IS A SAFETY/POWER ISSUE WITH THE MODEL. WHY WOULD THIS JUST BE HAPPENING TO OUR 2 VEHICLES? HER VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED IN GA AND MINE IN MI. I DO A LOT OF FREEWAY DRIVING. EACH TIME THIS OCCURRED, I WAS DRIVING ON FREEWAYS AT 70 MPH FOR EXTENDED PERIODS OF TIME. I TAKE AN EXIT. WHEN I DEPRESS THE ACCELERATOR TO TURN OFF THE EXIT RAMP, THE ENGINE COMPLETELY "BOGS DOWN". THERE IS VERY LITTLE POWER. EACH TIME, I HAVE CALIBRATED TIME FOR SAFELY PULLING OUT INTO ONCOMING TRAFFIC, EXPECTING TO HAVE NORMAL POWER. SUDDENLY, I HAVE LITTLE TO NO ACCELERATION AND IT SEEMS LIKE IT MAY STALL OUT! YOU CAN IMAGINE THE FEAR OF NOT BEING ABLE TO CLEAR ONCOMING TRAFFIC IN TIME. THE LOW POWER CONTINUES FOR ABOUT A MINUTE, THEN RESUMES NORMAL OPERATION. I HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH THAT NO ACCIDENT HAS OCCURRED, BECAUSE IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO GET OVER TO THE SHOULDER. ACTUALLY, THIS IS SO DANGEROUS, I CAN'T EXPLAIN WHY I HAVEN'T HAD IT CHECKED OUT, BESIDES INCONVENIENCE AND STUPIDITY. WHEN MY GRANDDAUGHTER TOLD ME ABOUT HER CAR, THAT REALLY SCARED ME AND PROMPTED ME TO ACT. I'VE ALSO COME TO REALIZE THAT I'M PUTTING OTHER DRIVERS IN DANGER OF INJURY OR DEATH. PLEASE LET ME KNOW ASAP IF THERE'S BEEN A RECALL OR SHOULD BE ONE ON THESE VEHICLES. I HAVE TO BELIEVE THERE ARE MANY MORE OUT THERE EXPERIENCING THE SAME DANGEROUS MALFUNCTION AND POSSIBLY INJURIES OR DEATH. *TR

THIS STANDARD TRANSMISSION 2010 DODGE CALIBER CONTINUALLY STALLS OUT WHEN THE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL, SUCH AS AT INTERSECTIONS, RAILROAD CROSSINGS, TOLL BOOTHS, AND PARKING LOTS. IT USUALLY TAKES FIVE TO TEN MINUTES OF ATTEMPTS BEFORE THE CAR WILL RESTART. THIS POSES A SERIOUS SAFETY PROBLEM BECAUSE OFTEN TRUCKS OR OTHER CARS DRIVING UP BEHIND ME BARELY SLOW DOWN IN TIME, EVEN THOUGH MY FLASHERS ARE BLINKING. LAST WEEKEND I WAS ALMOST HIT FROM BEHIND BY A LARGE TRUCK WHILE I WAS ATTEMPTING TO GET THE CAR RE-STARTED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT. DODGE REFUSES TO ATTEMPT TO FIX THE PROBLEM UNLESS THEIR COMPUTER CAN TELL THEM EXACTLY WHAT TO DO. IN THE WORDS OF THE DODGE REPRESENTATIVE, "WE DON'T WANT TO JUST THROW PARTS AWAY." DODGE HAS A PRIVATE MESSAGE BOARD ACCESSIBLY ONLY BY REGISTERED DODGE OWNERS. THE SECTION FOR CALIBER OWNERS CONTAINS MANY POSTS BY OTHER OWNERS AND FORMER OWNERS WHO HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS DEFECT ON THEIR DODGE CALIBERS. THE CAR IS STILL UNDER THE MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BACK FLOORBOARD WOULD BECOME FILLED WITH WATER WHENEVER IT RAINED. NO OTHER SECTION OF THE VEHICLE WOULD BECOME WET. THE FAILURE RECURRED NUMEROUS TIMES, CAUSING WATER DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE AND GROWING MOLD. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER SEVERAL TIMES BUT THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND AFTER SEVERAL FAILED ATTEMPTS TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE, ADVISED THE CONTACT TO GO TO THE DEALER AND CHOOSE A NEW VEHICLE. HOWEVER, THEY LATER ADVISED THAT DUE TO THE MILEAGE OF THE ORIGINAL VEHICLE, THEY WOULD NOT PROVIDE HER WITH A NEW VEHICLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 50 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 2,349.