2016 Dodge Challenger Electrical System Problems

Tipman module is melting and has a burning smell and black marks where there has been spark. Fire hazard. Draws too many amps from headlights. Drivers side seatbelt won't register and seatbelt airbag light is on.

The wiring to the headlights are getting hot and visibly showing burn Mark's to the wiring and fuses to the headlights (not halo lights). It is causing the headlights to come on intermittently. Sometimes they come on at night and sometimes they don't. Sometimes they are off and suddenly comes on after miles of driving with my flashers. I can spell the burning sometimes. The Dodge dealership in Douglasville Georgia verified the wire and fuse burning. The dealership technicians spoke of relocating the wires to empty fuse box slots. How will that prevent the wires from burning? This could be a fire hazard. Your assistance is appreciated.

Uconnect advised me via email that once the 3G bandwidth was no longer functional, that Uconnect would be upgrading to 4G. The list of functions that would be lost would mostly be cellular functions as well as the Assist and 9-1-1 button functions located on the inside rear view mirror. Most of the cellular phone functional loss was partially resolved with a dongle from T-Mobile/Sprint. However, it does not resolve functional loss of the Assist and 9-1-1 buttons on the inside rear view mirror. I believe this to be significant safety concern. I called Uconnect and was told that "we're sorry, but you'll have to use your cell phone in case of an emergency." My experience (law enforcement, EMS, and as an injured driver) dictates that the access and use of a cell phone is not always feasible depending on the structural/electrical damage of the vehicle and/or injuries. Stellantis and Uconnect initially told me that this was not repairable, but I was also told from another Uconnect employee that a recommendation was made to Stellantis, who apparently refused the upgrade/update, but offered no other information. Stellantis will not answer their phones (Not programmed to take messages and hangs up), executive management refuses to reply to email and letters, and my support through a Customer Care Executive Manager was very limited (our communication via email was terminated). I also received a phone call from Stellantis (department not disclosed in this message) a few months later, which I believe to be a method of intimidation.

MY HEADLIGHTS INTERMITTENTLY WENT OUT. SOMETIMES ONE SIDE, SOMETIMES BOTH. IT HAPPENED LAST NIGHT WHILE I WAS DRIVING. BOTH HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT. LUCKILY I WAS RIGHT DOWN THE STREET FROM MY HOUSE. PULLED IN THE GARAGE TO FIND THAT BOTH HEADLIGHT FUSES (FUSE 15 AND FUSE16) WERE BURNT. UPON FURTHER RESEARCH ON FORUMS AND WEBSITES DEDICATED TO MY CAR, MANY OTHER PEOPLE ARE ALSO HAVING ISSUES WITH THIS. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO MULTIPLE TIMES. LUCKILY THIS TIME I WAS NOT ON A BUSY STREET, BUT I WAS ON A STATE ROUTE A MINUTE PRIOR TO THIS. BOTH MY LOWBEAMS AND HIGH BEAMS WERE AFFECTED.

BOUGHT THE CAR FROM A DEALERSHIP NOT EVEN A MONTH AGO THEY WERE VERY AWARE THAT THE HEADLIGHTS DID NOT SEEM TO WORK ON THE CAR AFTER SEVERAL WEEKS OF ASKING THEM TO GET IN TOUCH WITH THEIR MECHANIC OR SAYING MAYBE TOMOROW OR NEXT WEEK GOT NO ANSWER CAR CURRENTLY IS UNABLE TO DRIVE AT NIGHT OR EARLY MORNING WHICH IS MY WORK HOURS HAVE RECENTLY HAD TO DRIVE WITH HAZARD LIGHTS ON AT DARK HOURS BULBS OR NOT HE CULPRIT NOR RELAYS OR FUSE HAS A MAJOR ELECTRICAL PROBLEM AND LIGHT PROBLEM ALSO CAR SEEMS TO BE STUCK ON THE HEADLIGHTS ON POSITION NOT ALLOWING ME TO TURN OFF LICENSE PLATE LIGHT AND OR SIDE MARKERS ALONG WITH DASH CLUSTER BEING SO DIM WHERE I'M UNABLE TO SEE DURING THE DAY TIME AND ALSO STEERING WHEEL IS OFF CENTERED WHEN DRIVING STRAIGHT

UCONNECT WILL NOT ADD TO DEVICES, CAN'T ADD PHONES TO CAR FOR HANDS FREE DRIVING. SOFTWARE DEFECT. MY CAR IS 3YEARS OLD. THERE'S NO WAY THIS SHOULD BE HAPPENING. I NEED SATISFACTION PLEASE.

My backup camera doesn’t work at all

WHEN SHUTTING THE TRUNK WITH THE KEY FOB IN MY POCKET THE LOCKING ACTUATOR WILL ENGAGE AND UNLOCK THE TRUNK. THIS HAPPENS SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE IT WILL STAY LOCKED. ALSO WHEN THIS HAPPENS 2 OTHER ISSUES PRESENT. WHEN LOCKING THE DOOR USING THE LOCK BUTTON ON THE DOOR PANEL AND CLOSING THE DOOR WHILE STANDING OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE WITH THE FOB IN MY POCKET. THE DOOR WILL UNLOCK ITS SELF, THE HORN WILL BEEP AND THE LIGHTS WILL FLASH THIS ISSUE WILL HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE IT STOPS, OR I WILL USE THE KEY FOB TO LOCK THE DOOR. ALSO AFTER THESE 2 ISSUES PRESENT, WHEN STARTING THE CAR WITH THE KEY FOB IN MY POCKET THE DISPLAY ON THE DASH WILL READ KEY FOB NOT IN VEHICLE AND THE CAR WILL GIVE THE AUDIBLE TONE AS IF THE KEY WAS NOT IN THE CAR. ALL ISSUES PRESENTED WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED AND WILL NOT REPLICATE EVERYDAY. THESE ISSUES HAPPENED A FEW WEEKS AGO AND I CALLED CARSON CITY DODGE IN NEVADA. APPOINTMENT WAS MADE AND I LEFT THE CAR WITH THEM FOR A FULL WEEK. I WAS NOTIFIED BY THE SERVICE ADVISOR THAT THE ISSUES WOULD NOT DUPLICATE. THE CAR WAS RETURNED TO ME ON 5/10/219. I WAS TOLD IF THE HAPPEN AGAIN TO CALL. I WILL BE DOING THAT TODAY 5/13/19. THESE ISSUES STARTED ON OR ABOUT 5/1/19.

BATTERY FAILURE LIGHT BROUGHT UP ON DASHBOARD, BATTERY VOLTAGE HEALTHY BUT DASHBOARD READINGS READ OTHERWISE. OVER TIME CAR STALLED OUT, DISABLED ABS, ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL AND BRAKES. SPEEDOMETER WENT UP AND DOWN AND POWER STEERING SHUT OFF. BURNING SMELL FROM ENGINE NEAR THE ALTERNATOR

DRIVING HOME FROM WORK, I STARTED SMELLING SMOKE A FEW BLOCKS FROM MY HOUSE. I THOUGHT A GARBAGE CAN WAS ON FIRE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. I PULLED INTO MY DRIVEWAY AND MY TRUNK WAS ON FIRE. CALLED 911 AND THE FIRE DEPARTMENT ARRIVED WITHIN 4 MINUTES. CAR WAS TOTALED. DEALERSHIP AND INSURANCE COMPANY BELIEVE WIRING HARNESS OR BATTERY (LOCATED IN TRUNK) WAS THE CAUSE OF THE FIRE. *TT

ABOUT A WEEK OR TWO AGO I REMOTE STARTED MY VEHICLE WITH THE FACTORY REMOTE STARTER. I ENTERED THE VEHICLE WHICH WAS STATIONARY, PUSHED THE START BUTTON TO COMPLETE THE ACTIVATION. THE VEHICLE STARTED AND RAN NORMALLY, ABOUT A MINUTE OR TWO LATER THE VEHICLE IDLED ROUGHLY AND SHUTOFF, ALL THE DASHBOARD CLUSTER LIGHTS AND SIDE MIRROR PROXIMITY LIGHTS CAME ON. THE PUSH BUTTON WAS ALSO ILLUMINATED IN THE "RUN" POSITION. I TRIED TO PUSH THE START BUTTON AND NOTHING HAPPENED, I TRIED TO OPEN MY DRIVERS DOOR AND IT WOULD NOT OPEN AS THE WINDOW WOULD NOT ROLL DOWN TO ALLOW ME TO OPEN THE DOOR (FRAME LESS DOOR), IF I HAD FORCED THE DOOR OPEN THE WINDOW WOULD HAVE BROKE. I WAS STUCK INSIDE MY VEHICLE WHICH WAS STATIONARY AND NOT IN DRIVE. I THEN PRESSED THE UNLOCK FUNCTION ON THE KEY FOB AND THE CAR MADE ALL THE NOISES TO UNLOCK, I AGAIN TRIED OPENING THE DOOR AND THE WINDOW WOULD NOT ROLL DOWN. I THEN TRIED PUSHING THE START BUTTON AND THE BUTTON WOULD NOT COME OUT OF "RUN" MODE. I PRESSED THE LOCK FUNCTION ON THE KEY FOB, THE VEHICLE MADE ALL THE NOISES OF LOCKING (HORN, FLASHING LIGHTS, ACTUATOR NOISE FOR LOCK) BUT THE DOOR STILL WOULD NOT OPEN AS THE WINDOW WOULD NOT ROLL DOWN; THE VEHICLE START BUTTON WAS STILL IN "RUN" MODE. I PRESSED THE LOCK AND UNLOCK BUTTON A FEW MORE TIMES UNTIL I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO OPEN THE DOOR. ONCE THE DOOR WAS OPEN I CONTINUE PRESSING THE LOCK/UNLOCK BUTTON ON THE KEY FOB, THE VEHICLE FINALLY LET ME PUSH THE START BUTTON TO TAKE IT OUT OF "RUN" MODE. ONCE THE VEHICLE WENT "OFF" I WAS ABLE TO START IT BY PUSHING THE START BUTTON. ON MAY 22, 2018 I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO GRESHAM DODGE DEALERSHIP, THEY RAN A QUICK DIAGNOSTIC AND SAID THERE WAS NO EVENT STORED, THAT I WOULD HAVE TO LET IT HAPPEN AGAIN BEFORE THEY COULD DO ANYTHING.

UCONNECT 911 VEHICLE PHONE CHIP NOT WORKING, WHITE SCREEN ON RADIO MODULE, AND UNABLE TO CONTROL RADIO SETTINGS, NOT ABLE TO CONTROL BLOWER FOR HEAT, AC, OR DEFROST, MULTIPLE TRIPS TO DEALER AND CALL TO CUSTOMER CARE HAS NOT RESOLVED ISSUE AS OF YET. HEAD UNIT IS ON BACK ORDER. PHONE CAN NOT BE CONNECTED TO HANDS FREE SYSTEM SAFELY. 10. DEALERSHIP IS NOT BEING COOPERATIVE.