NHTSA Owner Complaint Log
This page lists owner-reported complaints filed with NHTSA for the 2014 Dodge Dart. Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA and do not by themselves prove a defect or defect rate.
BRAKES FAILD
I ALLOWED MY CAR TO WARM UP AT HOME FOR 10-15 MINS AND THEN WENT A MILE TO RETURN SOMETHING TO THE STORE LEFT MY CAR RUNNING UNTIL I GOT BACK AND I WENT TO PUT IT IN DRIVE AND IT WOULDN'T GO ANYWHERE, SO IT TOLD ME TO PUT IT IN NUTERUL AND THEN PUT IT BACK IN DRIVE AND SO I DID JUST THAT AND IT STILL WASN'T GOING ANYWHERE. SO I CONTINUED TO TRY AND PUT IT IN DRIVE UNTIL IT TOLD ME TO SERVICE THE TRANSMISSION AND SO AFTER ABOUT 10 MINS IT FINALLY WENT INTO DRIVE AND SO I STARTED TO LEAVE AND IT WOULDN'T GET OUT OF FIRST GEAR THE WHOLE WAY FOR 7 MILES AND SO I CALLED THE DODGE DEALERSHIP AND THEY TOLD ME TO BRING IT IN AND SO I DROVE 8 MORE MILES TO GET MY DODGE DART AREO LOOKED AT AND THEY SAID THAT WHEN THE CARS ARE COLD THE CARS COMPUTER WON'T REGISTER THE CARS TRANSMISSION'S CODES AND SAID IT WAS FINE NOW BUT I PERSONALLY DON'T BELIEVE IT.
I HAVE BEEN HAVING TROUBLE WHEN TURNING OFF THE CAR THE KEY GETS STUCK AND I CAN'T TAKE IT OUT OF THE IGNITION UNLESS I JIMMY MY GEAR SHIFT. I NOTICED THE 2014 IS RECALLED AND I PUT MY VIN IN AND IT SAID MY CAR IS IN FACT RECALLED. WHAT CAN I DO? I AM GOING TO PUT TODAY'S DATE BECAUSE IT HAPPENED TODAY, BUT IT HAPPENS PRETTY MUCH EVERY DAY.
ISSUE BEGAN TO OCCUR WHERE CAR WILL LOSE ACCELERATION AND MUST BE TURNED OFF IN ORDER TO WORK AGAIN. IT HAS HAPPENED ABOUT SIX TIMES NOW WHERE THE CAR MUST BE PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD (IF POSSIBLE) AND RESTARTED. DURING RESTART, THE ENGINE HESITATES/SPUTTERS FOR ABOUT 5 SECONDS BEFORE RETURNING TO SEEMINGLY NORMAL OPERATION. AT NO OTHER TIME DOES THE CAR ACT LIKE THIS. NORMALLY IT WILL HAVE NO PROBLEMS STARTING UP. JUST LAST NIGHT, I WENT TO LEAVE AND WAS UNABLE TO TAKE THE CAR OUT OF PARK. AFTER A QUICK SEARCH I FOUND THAT THE CAR MAY HAVE A LOOSE OR BAD SHIFTING CABLE. ANOTHER ISSUE THAT SEEMS TO BE REOCCURRING IN THESE CARS. MY 14 GT HAS 64K MILES AND HAS ALWAYS RECIEVED ROUTINE MAINTENANCE.
THE CAR TURNS OFF WHEN AT A STOP ESPECIALLY WHEN MAKING A RIGHT HAND TURN OR SLOWING DOWN. THE CAR GIVES YOU NO WARNING NO LIGHTS COME ON IT JUST TURNS OFF. THE CAR HAS BEEN AT THE MECHANIC FOR OVER A WEEK AND THEY CAN NOT DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM BECOMES IT COMES BACK ON AFTER 3-4 ATTEMPTS. THIS IS A EXTREME SAFETY CONCERN FOR THAT IT TURNS OFF COMPLETELY WHEN AT A STOP OR A LIGHT. THIS CAN CAUSE A ACCIDENT AND THE PROBLEM CAN NOT BE DIAGNOSED YET.
ISSUE #1: BRAKES WHEN ATTEMPTING TO COME TO A STOP (WHETHER IT BE A RED LIGHT, A STOP SIGN, OR A SUDDEN STOP DUE TO HEAVY TRAFFIC ON THE HIGHWAY) THE BRAKES FAIL TO FULLY GRASP MAKING ME SUSCEPTIBLE TO RAMMING THE PERSON IN FRONT OF ME FROM BEHIND. ISSUE #2: ENGINE? ON TWO SEPARATE OCCASIONS, THE CAR HAS SUDDENLY JUST SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. THERE IS NO PRIOR WARNING TO THIS OCCURRING. ENGINE JUST COMPLETELY SHUTS OFF AND THAT LEADS ME TO SUDDEN MISSES IN BEING HIT FROM BOTH INCOMING TRAFFIC AND TRAFFIC FROM BEHIND. BATTERY IS BRAND NEW SO THAT IS NOT THE ISSUE, ESPECIALLY SINCE THE CAR WILL EVENTUALLY START AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. I TOOK IT TO MY LOCAL MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE ISSUE. FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED WAS IN AUGUST 2018, THE PAST TIME IT HAPPENED WAS NOVEMBER 2018.
VEHICLE ENGINE SHAKES FOR NO REASON, BACK CAMERA DOESN'T WORK. I WASN'T ABLE TO SHIFT MY VEHICLE UNTIL A PART WAS BOUGHT THAT WOULD ALLOW VEHICLE TO CHANGE GEAR. SUSPENSION WENT OUT ON FRONT AND BACK AROUND 50000 MILES TIL THIS DAY CAR SHAKES ON A REGULAR BASIS
I RECENTLY PURCHASED MY DODGE DART 2014 IN AUGUST OF 2018. I PURCHASED THE CAR WITH AROUND 26,000 MILES ON IT. GREAT CONDITION, EXCELLENT MILEAGE, NO ACCIDENTS, AND ONLY ONE OWNER. I HAVE ONLY HAD THE CAR FOR 5 MONTHS. I USE IT MAINLY AS A COMMUTER CAR. IT STARTED HAVING ISSUES ALMOST AS SOON AS WE GOT IT. THEY WERE FIRST MINOR THINGS. UNTIL NOVEMBER 2018. MY CARS BATTERY DIED AND REFUSED TO START. I HAD TO REPLACE OUT OF POCKET DUE TO IT NOT BEING COVERED BY WARRANTY. IT WAS HAVING ISSUES STARTING, I THOUGHT THAT IT WAS DUE TO IT BEING COLD (BECAUSE IT WOULD BE FINE ONCE IT HEATED UP), SO AT FIRST THOUGHT NOTHING OF IT. IT WOULD START UP AND I WOULD DRIVE IT LESS THEN A MILE, I WOULD START TO SLOW DOWN AND EVERYTHING WOULD SHUT OFF. THE HEATER AND THE LIGHTS WOULD STILL BE ON BUT IT WOULD LOOSE ACCELERATION AND THE BATTERY LIGHT WOULD COME ON. IT WILL DO THIS MULTIPLE TIMES UNTIL THE CAR IS WARM(EVEN THEN IT WILL CONTINUE TO DO IT AFTERWARD). RPM DROPS TO ZERO, CHECK ENGINE, ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL, AND BATTERY LIGHT ALL COME ON. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD DUE TO IT STOPPING IN TRAFFIC, ON THE HIGHWAY, AND IN INTERSECTIONS. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ABOUT THIS ISSUE. I HAVE READ UP ON THIS ISSUE AND SEE THAT I LOT OF PEOPLE HAVE THIS ISSUE. MY CAR IS CURRENTLY AT 24% OIL LIFE, I WILL BE TESTING TO SEE IF THE ISSUE IS RESOLVED(TEMPORARILY) LIKE OTHERS HAVE BEEN. DUE TO FEAR OF IT NOT BEING COVERED UNDER WARRANTY I HAVE NOT TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER. THEY QUOTED ME AT $400 DOLLARS FOR EVERYTHING THAT COULD POSSIBLY BE WRONG (BASED OFF THIS INFORMATION THEY HAVE AN IDEA OF ALREADY WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE CAR. THEY STILL WANT ME TO COME IN AND TRY TO CHARGE ME FOR IT BECAUSE IT MOST LIKELY WON'T BE COVERED BY THE WARRANTY.
THE ENTIRE CAR IS SHAKING. THE CAR IS ROUGH IDLING. I HAD MY FOOT ALL THE WAY ON THE GAS AND IT WOULDN'T GO ABOVE10 MILES PER HOUR. THIS HAPPENED BEFORE AND THE DEALERSHIP FIXED IT AND SAID THE CYLINDERS WERE MISFIRING
MY VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED UNDER THE RECALL FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE FAILURE ALTHOUGH IT DID SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL AND CAUSED MY VEHICLE TO BE INOPERABLE. IF THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS INTO NEUTRAL, IT CAN CAUSE LOSS OF MOTIVE POWER, INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH. MY VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY BEING SHIFTED INTO DRIVE, AFTER THE SHIFTER WAS MOVED THE VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY MOVED INTO THE NEUTRAL POSITON AND WOULD NOT MOVE UP OR DOWN IN ORDER TO PARK IT. THE EMERGENCY PARKING BRAKE WAS PULLED IN ORDER TO KEEP THE VEHICLE STATIONARY AND THE ENTIRE SIDE OF THE CAR WHERE THE ISSUE WAS HAD TO BE REMOVED, I.E THE BATTERY AND THE COMPARTMENT THAT HOLDS THE BATTERY IN ORDER TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE FAULTY PART AND TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE AND INSTALL A NEW PART. MY VEHICLE HOWEVER DID THIS BECAUSE OF A FAULTY SHIFT BUSHING PART THAT HAS WITHERED AWAY AFTER ONLY 4 YEARS. THE CABLE UNEXPECTEDLY RELEASED ITSELF FROM THE BUSHING.
WENT TO GET IN MY CAR AND THE ALARM SYSTEM ACTIVATED AND IT WILL NOT START. ALSO THE MOTOR CONSUMES OIL AT AN ALARMING PACE TO THE POINT I HAVE TO TAKE OIL WITH ME WHEN I GO ANYWHERE. BECAUSE IF I DON'T IT WILL GET LOW AND THE CAR WILL LOSE ALL POWER WHILE I'M DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. THIS IS UNSAFE AND NEEDS TO BE FIXED ASAP ESPECIALLY SINCE I HAVE KIDS. CAR STILL WILL NOT START
FOR THE LAST 4 MONTHS MY VEHICLE SHUTS OFF AS I'M DRIVING. AFTER 3 TRIPS TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR A FEW TEST THEY DETERMINE THAT DUE TO LOW OIL CONSUMPTION THE CAR HAS A SENSOR THAT SHUTS OFF THE ENGINE WHILE DRIVING. DURING ONE OF THESE INCIDENTS MY VEHICLE TURNED OFF AS I WAS APPROACHING AN INTERSECTION IN WHICH THE BRAKES DID NOT WORK WHICH LEAD ME TO SLOWLY ROLL INTO THE INTERSECTION ON A RED LIGHT. LUCKILY IT WAS MORNING RUSH HOUR SO NO ACCIDENTS OCCURRED. I TRULY BELIEVE THIS VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE RECALLED IT'S A SAFETY HAZARD NOT ONLY FOR ME BUT ALSO FOR OTHERS
CAR STUCK ON NUETRAL. CAR WON'T RETURN KEY. THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE VEHICLE WHILE THE VEHICLE REMAINS ON NUETRAL.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STOPPED ACCELERATING WHILE THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE DRIVER DISCOVERED THAT THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTER HAD ERRONEOUSLY SWITCHED FROM THE DRIVE POSITION INTO NEUTRAL. THE CONTACT INDICATED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON TWO SEPARATE OCCASIONS. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED FROM THE SCENE. THE FAILURES WERE NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE LOCAL DEALER (FRANK FLETCHER DODGE, 5922 WARDEN RD, SHERWOOD, AR) AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 99,000.
UPON FIRST DRIVING EVERY TIME IT DECELERATION AND IT A COMPLETE STOP THE CAR SHIFTS INTO NEUTRAL AND POWERS DOWN. THIS HAS HAPPENED TEN DAYS IN A ROW.
CAR KEEPS STALLING ON ROAD AND NOT STARTING. THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE RECTIFIED. SEVERAL OTHERS HAVE REPORTED THE ISSUES AS WELL AS FAR BACK AS 2016. DODGE NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING ON BEHALF OF CUSTOMERS TO CLEAR THIS HORRIBLE SAFETY HAZARD.
VEHICLE STALLS WHILE MOVING FOR NO REASON, SEVERAL DASH LIGHTS COME ON
WHILE DRIVING MY VEHICLE, IT STALLED. WHILE DRIVING! COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. LOST POWERING STEERING, BRAKES. BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON, BUT LIGHTS AND RADIO WAS STILL ON. TRIED TO START IT UP MULTIPLE TIMES UNTIL FINALLY AT THE FIFTH TRY IT STATED AND DROVE LIKE NOTHING EVER EVEN HAPPENED.
ABOUT TWO TO THREE WEEKS AGO MY BREAKS COMPLETELY WENT OUT. I WAS DRIVING AND ALL OF A SUDDEN MY FOOT WAS TO THE GROUND AND MY CAR WAS BARELY STOPPING. TOOK IT TO A SHOP AND THEY TOLD ME MY BREAK LINE SNAPPED AND THE FLUID CONTAMINATED MY BREAKS. NEEDED TO REPLACE EVERYTHING ON THE FRONT END (BREAKS, PADS, BREAK LINE, ETC.) FAST FORWARD TO ABOUT TWO WEEKS AGOI'M BACKING OUT OF A DRIVEWAY ONTO A MAIN, SUPER BUSY ROAD, I SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND MY CAR DIES. I PRESS THE GAS AND MY CAR WON'T MOVE. I HAD TO TURN MY CAR OFF AND ON AGAIN IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC TO GET IT TO START UP. THIS HAPPENED AGAIN A COUPLE DAYS LATER AS I WAS BACKING OUT OF MY OWN DRIVEWAY. BACKED OUT PERFECTLY FINE, PUT IT INTO DRIVE AND IT DIES. WON'T MOVE WHEN YOU PRESS ON THE GAS. TURN THE CAR OFF AND THEN BACK ON AND IT DRIVES AGAIN. FINALLY, TODAY (AUGUST 23) I BACKED OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY AND PUT IT IN DRIVE. NOTHING BAD HAPPENED THEN, BUT AS I WAS COMING UP TO A LIGHT AND SLOWING DOWN TO TURN, MY CARS BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON AND IT WON'T GO FASTER WHEN I HIT THE GAS. I PULL INTO THE AUTO REPAIR SHOP THAT WAS THERE (THANKFULLY) STOPPED THE CAR AND TURNED IT OFF. WHEN I TRIED TO START IT THIS TIME, IT WOULDN'T START. I GAVE THE GUYS AT THE SHOP MY KEYS AND INFO AND JUST GOT A CALL THAT MY CAR HAD NO OIL AND THEY THINK IT SHUT DOWN TO A SAFETY FEATURE. BUT MY CAR WAS TELLING ME I STILL HAD A 23% OIL LIFE. THERE WERE NO WARNINGS PRIOR TO THE CAR SHUTTING DOWN. I DO NOT FEEL SAFE IN THIS CAR ANYMORE, ESPECIALLY SINCE I USE IT TO DELIVER IN AND I COMMUTE TO SCHOOL. I NEVER KNOW WHEN THE NEXT TIME IT'S GOING TO STALL OUT. AND I DON'T WANT TO GET INTO AN ACCIDENT. ESPECIALLY WHEN I'M ON THE CLOCK AT WORK.
WHEN DRIVING I CAN HEAR RATTLING GOING OVER BUMPS COMING FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR. I INSPECTED THE BRAKE CALIPER AND IT IS NOT TIGHT AGAINST THE BRAKES PADS
ENGINE SHUTS OFF WHILE SLOWING DOWN TO TURN OR STOP AT STOP SIGN OR LIGHT. NO WARNING LIGHTS BEFORE ENGINE SHUTS DOWN. CALL DODGE DEALER, WAS TOLD TO CHECK OIL AND THAT IT WAS COMMON FOR DODGE DARTS THAT OIL WAS VERY LOW OR EMPTY AND CAR WOULD DO THAT. CHECK AND OIL WAS EMPTY OR BASICALLY EMPTY. OIL WARNING LIGHT DID NOT COME ON EVEN AFTER ENGINE SHUTDOWN THIS HAPPENED A COUPLE OF TIMES IN ONE WEEK THE LAST TIME I WAS ALMOST HIT FROM THE REAR I FIND THIS TO BE A VERY SERIOUS SITUATION. I HAVE NO OIL LEAKS SO ENGINE MUST HAVE BURNED OIL I STILL HAD 600 MILES LEFT TO OIL CHANGE. OIL LIGHT DID NOT COME ON WHEN IT SHOULD HAVE AN ENGINE SHOULD NEVER SHUT DOWN WELL STILL IN MOTION!
THE CAR STALLS WHILE DRIVING AND DOES NOT RESTART IMMEDIATELY. THE DEALER CHANGES MY OIL EVERY 5,000 MILES. IT APPEARS TO STALL EVERY 3-4,000 MILES. THE SOLUTION FOR THE DEALER NOW IS TO BRING MY CAR IN EVERY 1,000 MILES. THIS SEEMS EXCESSIVE AND IS NOT A SOLUTION TO THIS DANGEROUS PROBLEM? SOMETIMES THE ENGINE TURNS OFF WHEN I'M IN TRAFFIC OR TRAVELING ON A BUSY STREET. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR NEW IN 2014. IT'S ONLY BEEN SERVICED BY THE DEALER.
MY 2014 DODGE DART GT HAS HAD BREAKING ISSUES OVER THE PAST FEW WEEKS. WHEN STOPPING THE BREAK PETAL WILL GO ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOORBOARD WITH NO PRESSURE AT ALL. THIS ISSUE HAS ALMOST CAUSED 3 ACCIDENTS AND THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THAT THEY CAN NOT FIND AN ISSUE. THIS VEHICLE HAS NO RECALLS TO BE REPAIRED, AND IS VERY UNSAFE TO DRIVE. DEALERSHIP HAS BEEN NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE AND NO ATTEMPT AT REPAIR HAS BEEN MADE
ONLY HAD CAR TWO YEARS SUNDAY DASH BOARDS STARTS FLICKING ON AND OFF DISCONNECTED MY UCONNECT. ON MONDAY MY THROTTLE LIGHT AND ENGINE LINE CAME ON ON TUESDAY IT WAS OFF. NOW CAR WILL ONLY START WITH A JUMP SITTING IN CARLOT 4 DODGES BEING SERVICED FOR ELECTRIC COMPUTER PROBLEMS. NOW NONE OF MY LIGHTS ON BATTERY IS GOOD BUT CAR WON'T START. A RECALL NEEDS TO BE CHECKED ASAP.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT RECEIVED A RECALL NOTICE FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 19V293000 (POWER TRAIN). THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP RAM NORTH SAVANNAH (1100 CHATHAM PKWY, SAVANNAH, GA 31405, (912) 712-7900) WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REMEDY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND WAS NOT ABLE TO CONFIRM WHEN THE PARTS WERE TO BECOME AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONSUMER STATED THE MANUFACTURER WOULD NOT PROVIDE REIMBURSEMENT FOR THE REPAIRS DUE TO RECEIPT NOT BEING LEGIBLE. THE CONSUMER PROVIDED BANK STATEMENTS.*JS THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE WAS INSTALLED A FAULTY BATTERY AND REQUESTED TO BEREIMBURSED FOR THE PRICE OF THE BATTERY. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED.
2014 DODGE DART. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO MOTOR DEFECT. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE GEARSHIFT CABLE AND GROMMET FAILED. *JS
THE BRAKE PEDAL SINKS IN AND INCREASES THE BRAKING DISTANCE. IT HAPPENED EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE BUT RECENTLY IT STARTED HAPPENING MORE OFTEN AND HAS GOTTEN WORSE. THE BRAKE SINKS IN COMPLETELY NOW AND IT DOES NOT BRAKE UNLESS U RELEASE IT AND PUSH DOWN AGAIN.
BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON, ONCE THAT OCCURS THE RADIO GOES PITCH BLACK AND WE LOSE TOTAL CONTROL OVER THE RADIO AND HVAC CONTROLS. THE DASH GAUGES SHUT OFF INCLUDING TURN SIGNAL BLINKERS AND CLICKING SOUND. AND WHETHER THE A.C. IS ON OR NOT THE HEATER DEFROST COMES ON FULL BLAST AND I CAN'T GET IT TO TURN OFF. UNTIL THE REAR DEFROST AND BATTERY LIGHT IS OFF. BUT IT WILL IMMEDIATELY DO IT AGAIN. THIS PROBLEM OCCURS WHETHER THE CAR IS IN PARK, IN DRIVE BUT IDLING, WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WHEN TURNING LEFT.
IT BECAME MORE CONSISTENT IN 2017, MY CAR WOULD STALL DRIVING IT ANYWHERE FROM 25 MPH -75 MPH, SOME DAYS THE STEERING WHEEL WOULD LOCK AND THE CAR WOULD TURN OFF AND I'D HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL IT WAS READY TO BE BACK ON, JUST RECENTLY MULTIPLE TIMES I HAVE HAD MY CAR TURN COMPLETELY OFF GOING 75MPH, THE DASHBOARD TURNS OFF THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKS AND THE CAR SHUTS OFF, SOME TIMES IT TURNS OFF FOR NOT EVEN A MINUTE BEFORE IT TURNS BACK ON. OTHER TIMES I'VE PUT MY CAR ON CRUISE CONTROL AND IT'S TURNED OFF MINUTES AFTER BEING SET. WAS TOLD TO CHANGE THE OIL MORE OFTEN WHICH I DID AT MAXIMUM OF 3000 MILES, ON A 2014?! THIS TIME (ITS BEEN SEVERAL SEVERAL TIMES ALREADY) MY CAR TURNED OFF AND WOULDN'T TURN BACK ON, TRIED JUMP STARTING IT FOR ALMOST 3 HOURS AND IT DID NOTHING TO THE CAR, THE CAR DIDN'T BUDGE. THE DASHBOARD WOULD FLICKER ON AND OFF AND ALL THE SWITCHES WOULD GO CRAZY INCLUDING MY WINDSHIELD WIPERS THAT WEREN'T EVENT ON IN THE FIRST PLACE. USED A CAR BATTERY CHARGER TO SEE IF IT HELPED AT ALL, 12 HOURS LATER STILL NOTHING. I HAVE A TWO YEAR OLD AND THIS CAR IS WAY TO DANGEROUS FOR ME TO FEEL SAFE IN!!
AS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AFTER ABOUT A MILE FROM HOME MY CAR WOULD NO LONGER MOVE BUT GLIDE ALONG. THE ENGINE WAS SHUT OFF AND I HAD NO CONTROL OVER SPEED. YOU CAN STEP ON THE GAS AND IT WILL NOT MOVE. RPM'S DROP AND THE MOTOR TURNS OFF IN DRIVE. AFTER THIS HAPPENS THE CAR HESITATES TO START BUT WILL. THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON AND ALL STATISTICS FOR THE CAR WERE AS THEY SHOULD BE. THE BATTERY IS SHOWING CORRECT VOLTAGE. THE CAUSE IS UNKNOWN.
I BOUGHT A USED 2014 DODGE DART ACT IN SEPTEMBER 2017, IN LATE DECEMBER EARLY JANUARY I BROUGHT CAR IN TO THE DEALERSHIP BECAUSE IT KEPT STALLING OUT. THEY LOOKED AT IT AND SAID IT WAS BECAUSE THE OIL WAS LOW. FAST FORWARD TO MAY. I'M ON THE WAY TO THE STORE AND MY CAR STALLS OUT WHILE I'M DRIVING WITH MY 4YR DAUGHTER IN THE CAR. I GOT IT STARTED BACK UP AFTER A FEW MINS BUT IT STALLED OUT AFTER A MIN. THEN AGAIN LATER IN THE NIGHT 3 MORE TIMES IN LESS THEN A QUARTER MILE. THIS APPARENTLY IS AN ONGOING ISSUE AMONGST OTHER DADGE DART OWNERS. THIS PROBLEM COULD KILL PEOPLE AND DODGE IS DOING NOTHING TO RECTIFY THE SITUATION.
IF I BRAKE WITHIN 5 MINUTES OF STARTING MY VEHICLE, THE NEXT TIME I BRAKE ALL OF THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS WILL FLASH ON, THE BATTERY LIGHT WILL STAY ON, AND THE CAR WILL STALL. AFTER WAITING 5 TO 10 MINUTES THE CAR WILL START AGAIN. THIS HAPPENS WITHIN A WEEK OF WHEN MY CAR NEEDS AN OIL CHANGE. THIS HAPPENED 10/24/2017, 10/25/2017, AND 5/17/2018.
I BOUGHT MY 2014 DART BRAND NEW IN JANUARY OF 2015. AS OF TODAY (4/9/18), IT HAS 47,200 MILES ON IT. I WAS TAKING RESIDENTIAL ROADS TO DROP MY DAUGHTER OFF AT SCHOOL, SLOWING TO STOP AT A STOP SIGN AND TURN RIGHT. I THOUGHT I SLOWED TOO MUCH AND NEEDED TO SLIGHTLY ACCELERATE TO GET ME TO THE STOP SIGN. WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE, I REALIZED THE CAR HAD STALLED, BUT ALL INSIDE LIGHTS AND RADIO WERE STILL ON. THE "BATTERY" LIGHT (CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT) CAME ON AND STAYED ON UNTIL I TURNED THE CAR OFF. I TRIED TO RESTART THE CAR, BUT ALL IT WOULD DO WAS TRY TO TURN OVER. I KNOW IT'S NOT THE BATTERY, AS IT WAS REPLACED LESS THAN 6 MONTHS AGO. ALL TERMINALS/CONNECTIONS TO THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR ARE NOT LOOSE. AFTER TRYING TO RESTART THE CAR TWICE, IT FINALLY STARTED ON THE THIRD TRY WITH HESITATION. FROM THERE, I WAS ABLE TO CONTINUE TO THE SCHOOL (LESS THAN A MILE - IT'S ONLY 1.3 MILES FROM MY HOUSE TO THE SCHOOL). WHEN I GOT BACK HOME, I LET THE CAR SIT FOR ROUGHLY 2-3 MINUTES AND RESTARTED IT AGAIN - NO HESITATION. AFTER LOOKING FOR ANSWERS ONLINE, I'VE FOUND AT LEAST 34 IDENTICAL PROBLEMS WITH NO EXPLANATION AND NO HELP FROM DODGE/CHRYSLER. (EXCEPT FOR ONE OR TWO ENGINE REPLACEMENTS). (CARCOMPLAINTS.COM) I AM SCARED TO DRIVE MY CAR TO WORK, AS I DON'T WANT IT TO STALL ON THE HIGHWAY AND GET IN AN ACCIDENT, ESPECIALLY BECAUSE I HAVE TWO CHILDREN THAT ARE PICKED UP FROM MY WORK. THIS IS ONLY GOING TO CAUSE A FATAL ACCIDENT IF SOMETHING ISN'T DONE ABOUT THIS. WE'VE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR (RADIO FREEZES AND RESTARTS INTERMITTENTLY, TRANSMISSION WILL SHIFT HARD, ETC.).
THIS IS THE THIRD TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED. THE ENGINE WILL STALL RANDOMLY WHILE DRIVING. THE SAME ISSUE HAPPENED AGAIN TODAY. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO A LOT OF PEOPLE, BUT STILL NO RECALLS. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. WHEN THE ENGINE STALLS, YOU LOOSE POWER STEERING AND BRAKES. THIS CAN CAUSE A MAJOR ACCIDENT. LUCKILY, IT'S ONLY HAPPENED ON LOW RPM. THIS ISSUE NEEDS TO BE LOOKED INTO AND FIXED.
CAR SHUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING, ALL ELECTRICAL LOSES POWER. CHECKED RECALL, NOTHING POSTED. IT STARTED ABOUT 1 MONTH AGO, HAPPENS ONCE A WEEK. CHECK THE FORUM AND THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS LISTED ABOUT THIS ISSUE. DEALERSHIP WONT RETURN CALL.
MY SON WAS DRIVING HIS CAR TO HIS FRIENDS HOUSE. WHEN HE ARRIVED HE PARKED HIS CAR. ABOUT 30 MIN LATER WHEN HE WAS READY TO LEAVE THE CAR WOULD NOT SWITCH GEARS. LUCKILY MY FRIEND IS A MECHANIC AND HE CHECKED OUT THE CAR AND SAID IT WAS THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE. MY SON HAS ONLY HAD THE CAR FOR A FEW MONTHS. I LOOKED ONLINE AND SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVE BEEN COMPLAINING OF THE SAME ISSUE. WHEN I CHECKED THE SYSTEM SAID THERE WERE NO RECALLS FOR THAT VIN #. I BELIEVE THIS ISSUE NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED AND PEOPLE LIKE ME WHO HAVE HAD TO COME OUT OF POCKET TO FIX THIS ISSUE SHOULD BE REIMBURSED.
car has oil consumption issuwes wich will shut the entire car off.a recall fix was issued but the oil consumption still exists.a class action law suit was setteled but dodge is not extending engine replacement recall like they did once before.the care is a lemon and i feel unsafe to drive.i cant replace it or sell it due to this defect.
2014 DODGE DART AERO APPROX. 59700 MILES, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION WILL SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL. LARGE CLICKING NOISE FROM LEFT UNDER HOOD. AT TIMES WILL LOOSE GEAR, SPECIFIC TO FIRST AND REVERSE. BURNING SMELL. CAN RESET, WITH A STANDARD OBDII BUT WILL NOT LAST LONG. THIS IS NOT A RECALL VIN BUT THIS CAR IS VERY UNSAFE TO DRIVE WITH ITS CONSTANT TRANSMISSION SHIFTING, LOSS OF POWER AND POTENTIAL ROAD HAZARD. THERE NEEDS TO BE AN IMMEDIATE RECALL BASED ON POTENTIAL LIFE THREATENING ACCIDENT.
WHEN DRIVING AND APPLYING THE BRAKES THEY WILL SOMETIMES GO SOFT I WILL HAVE TO REAPPLY THEM FOR THE BRAKES TO GO BACK TO NORMAL. I KNOW THERE IS A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM BUT MY CAR IS NOT INCLUDED. I DON'T THINK I SHOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR A PROBLEM THAT DODGE KNOWS EXISTS. WHAT CAN I DO TO GET MY CAR ADDED TO THE RECALL?
AFTER TCM REPLACEMENT THAT WAS UNDER RECALL, TCM IS STILL FAILING CAUSING VEHICLE TO NOT SHIFT INTO GEAR. SEVERAL ATTEMPTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO CORRECT THE ISSUE WITH DODGE, HOWEVER THEY REFUSE TO DO ANYTHING TO REMEDY THE PROBLEM
MY VEHICLE SHUTS DOWN WHILE DRIVING. I HAVE A BATTERY UNDER WARRANTY. I'VE GONE TO THE STORE WHERE THE BATTERY WAS PURCHASED TWICE AND WAS TOLD THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR ARE GOOD. I'VE HAD TWO DIFFERENT AUTO MECHANICS CHECK MY CAR AND WAS TOLD THE SAME AS THE ABOVE. ONE MECHANIC TOLD ME WHEN HE APPLIED A DIAGNOSTIC TOOL TO MY CAR, SEVERAL FACTORY CODES COME UP. I WAS TOLD TO TAKE MY CAR TO A DODGE DEALER SERVICE CENTER, WHICH I PLAN TO DO ON MONDAY 2//12/18. I'M FILING THIS COMPLAINT BECAUSE MY NEIGHBOR'S FRIEND AND MY SISTER'S MALE FRIENDS GIRLFRIEND BOTH OWN DODGE DARTS AND ARE EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEM. OUR CARS WILL SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. MY BATTERY INDICATOR LIGHT COMES ON, HOWEVER WHEN TESTED, THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR INDICATES THEY ARE OKAY. AS I SAID ABOVE, I'VE HAD THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR TESTED AT LEAST FOUR TIMES. EACH TIME I EXPERIENCED THIS PROBLEM MY CAR WAS IN MOTION ON A STREET.
WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE THE CAR TRIES TO SHIFT TO NEUTRAL. IT SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM WITH THE TCM. THERE IS A RECALL FOR THE TCM BUT IT DOES NOT COVER MY VIN NUMBER.
MY VEHICLE UNEXPECTEDLY LOSES POWER WHILE DRIVING AS IF IT HAS SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL. THIS TYPICALLY HAPPENS ON CITY STREETS BEFORE I MAKE IT TO THE HIGHWAY. IT USUALLY HAPPENS AS I'M SLOWING DOWN. MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP TOLD ME IT WAS A BATTERY PROBLEM IN SEPT. 2017 AND I PAID OVER $600 TO HAVEN THEM REPLACE THE BATTERY, WHICH RESOLVED THE ISSUE UNTIL NOW. THERE IS A RECALL R42 FOR THIS VERY ISSUE, HOWEVER IT DOESN'T APPLY TO MY VIN NUMBER. THE DESCRIPTION OF THE RECALL FITS EXACTLY WHAT I AM EXPERIENCING.
THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL CAR HOWEVER I HAVE BEEN SMELLING A CHEMICAL SMELL SIMILAR TO MELTING PLASTIC OR RUBBER SINVE I PURCHASED IT IN JANUARY AT 39,000 MILES. MY PASSENGERS ALSO SMELL IT. THE DEALERSHIP DID NOT AND THEY DID NOT INVESTIGATE FURTHER. NOW THE SMELL HAS GOTTEN WORSE AND IS MORE LIKE ANTIFREEZE AND MELTING PLASTIC. THE SMELL HAPPENS MOST NOTICEABLY AFTER EXITING THE HIGHWAY AND COMINGVTO A STOP. MY PASSENGERS ALL NOTICE IT. I RIDE WITH THE WINDOWS LOWERED SLIGHTLY TO BRING IN FRESH AIR. ALSO THE AIR CONDITIONING HAS BEEN TURNING ON ON ITS OWN, THE BACKUP CAMERA RECENTLY STAYED ON FOR ABOUT A HALF MILE AFTER I CHANGED FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE AND BEGAN DRIVING. ALSO THEIR SEEMS TO BE AN OCCASIONAL DELAY IN ACCELLERATION WHIN SHIFTNG GEARS.
TAKATA RECALL: I PULLED OUT OF MY WORK PARKING LOT AT 5PM AFTER IT HAD BEEN SITTING SINCE 7AM AND DROVE ABOUT 2 MINS DOWN THE RODE, CAR BATTERY LIGHT FLASHED AND THE CAR WOULD NO LONGER ACCELERATE AND STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP. ALL LIGHTS AND RADIO, A/C CONTINUED WORKING NORMALLY. I WAS LEFT STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION. I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND TURNED THE KEY A COUPLE OF TIMES, AFTER ABOUT 5-6 TIMES IT FINALLY STARTED AGAIN AND DROVE AWAY NORMALLY. THIS HAS HAPPENED 6 TIMES NOW IN THE PAST 6 DAYS. MOST RECENTLY I WAS DRIVING DOWN A BUSY STREET GOING ABOUT 30 MPH IN FAR RIGHT LANE, I SAW THE BATTERY LIGHT FLASH AND I SWERVED INTO A PARKING LOT BEFORE MY STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP. IT IS NOW TAKING 15-20 MINS TO START BACK UP, IT SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE. IT ONLY SEEMS TO STALL FIRST TIME DRIVING IT IN THE MORNING OR AFTER WORK, IN BOTH CASES THE CAR HAS BEEN SITTING FOR 8-9 HOURS. I'M NOW SCARED TO DRIVE THIS CAR FEARFUL IT WILL STOP ON ME AND I WONT HAVE A CHANCE TO GET OUT OF HARMS WAY.
WHEN THE ENGINE IS SHUT OFF THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION UNTIL THE GEAR SHIFT KNOB IS JIGGLED. THIS IS REOCCURRING FREQUENTLY OVER THE LAST YEAR.
CAR OFTEN SHUDDERS AND JERKS WHEN SHIFTING GEAR FROM PARK. OFTEN TIMES IT WILL NOT SHIFT GEAR AND PRESENTS A MESSAGE SAYING 'SHIFT TO NEUTRAL AND THEN SHIFT TO DRIVE OR RESERVE.' THIS MESSAGE COMES UP WHEN IN PARK OR SOMETIMES WHEN STOPPED AT A LIGHT. SUCH AS STOPPED AT A LIGHT. SOMETIMES WHEN IT PRESENTS THIS MESSAGES, EVEN AFTER SHIFTING TO NEUTRAL SEVERAL TIMES, IT WILL STILL NOT MOVE AFTERWARDS WHILE IN DRIVE OR REVERSE.
CROSSING A BUSY ROAD TO THE MIDDLE TURN LANE MY 2014 DODGE DART STALLED OUT AND HAD A COMPLETE LOSS OF POWER, LEAVING ME IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD AND I WAS ALMOST TBONED. I WAS QUICKLY ABLE TO START THE VEHICLE AGAIN TO GET INTO THE MIDDLE TURN LANE WHERE THE CAR STALLED OUT AGAIN. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS I WAS ABLE TO START THE CAR AND TURN AROUND TO HEAD BACK HOME AND OFF THE ROAD. WHILE DRIVING 100FT THE CAR WAS STILL JERKING AS IT WAS ABOUT TO STALL YET AGAIN. I GET THE CAR HOME AND LEAVE IT PARKED TO CALL THE DEALERSHIP. THE ONLY THING THEY KEPT ASKING ME ABOUT OR WERE CONCERNED ABOUT WAS MY OIL AND IF I HAD BEEN DOING MY OIL CHANGES. SO, THEY OBVIOUSLY WERE AWARE OF THIS ISSUE WITH THE ENGINE FAILURE AND THE OIL. I TOLD THE DEALERSHIP THAT I HAVE COMPLETE DOCUMENTATION OF EVERY OIL CHANGE HAVING BEEN DONE ON TIME, EVERY TIME AND THAT I WASN'T EVEN DUE FOR MY NEXT OIL CHANGE. THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT OF THE DEALERSHIP STILL SUGGESTED I CHECK MY OIL LEVEL. I CHECK MY OIL AND IT'S SO LOW THAT NOTHING IS ON THE DIP STICK, MY ENGINE WAS DRY OF OIL WITHOUT MY OIL PRESSURE SENSOR EVER HAVING GONE OFF AND ZERO OIL IN MY DRIVEWAY. I CALLED IMMEDIATELY AND HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AS IT'S A VERY DANGEROUS PROBLEM AND STILL UNDER THE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY. THE NEXT DAY THE DEALERSHIP CALLS ME TO INFORM ME THAT THE INFORMATION I HAVE THEM WAS CORRECT THAT THERE WAS NO OIL IN MY CAR, NO OIL LEAKS AND NO RESIDUE OF OIL TO BE FOUND! THEY THEN PROCEEDED TO TELL ME THAT THEY'VE FILLED IT WITH OIL AND I'M REQUIRED TO CONTINUE DRIVING THIS DANGEROUS VEHICLE THAT ALREADY ALMOST HAD ME TBONED FOR ANOTHER 1,000 MILES TO DO AN OIL CONSUMPTION TEST BEFORE CHRYSLER WILL POSSIBLY APPROVE ME FOR A NEW MOTOR THAT IS STILL COVERED UNDER THE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY. I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT THEY ARE AWARE OF THE ISSUE OF THE MOTOR JUST BURNING THE OIL IN THIS CAR AND THAT IT'S DANGEROUS.
I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AND ALL OF A SUDDEN I RECEIVED A MESSAGE THAT STATED BLIND SPOT ALERT TEMPORARILY UNAVAILABLE AND MY BLIND-SPOT DETECTOR LIGHTS WILL NOT TURN OFF
THE CAR WILL STARTLE WHEN SHIFTING GEARS UNTIL ONE DAY IT JUST STOPPED RESPONDING WHENEVER I STEPPED ON THE ACCELERATOR. IT WILL ONLY DRIVE NO MORE THAN 5 MILES AN HOUR, MAKING HORRIBLE NOISES AND SMELLING BURNT. I HAD TO STOP AND PULL TO THE SIDE AS I WAS DRIVING.IIT WAS SO SCARY BECAUSE I HAD MY DAUGHTER WITH ME AND WAS IN A HIGH TRAFFIC STREET.
Data synced from NHTSA on May 4, 2026