2000 Dodge Durango Complaint Log

PE 03-032, FRONT SUSPENSION/LOWERBALL JOINT FAILURE: THE LOWER BALL JOINTS WORE OUT PREMATURELY. *AK *JB

IN MARCH OF 2003 I TOOK MY 2000 DODGE DURANGO INTO GOODYEAR TO HAVE NEW TIRES PUT ON AND ALIGNMENT DONE. I WAS TOLD THAT ALIGNMENT COULD NOT BE DONE BECAUSE ALL FOUR CONTROL ARMS WERE WORN AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND THE COST WOULD BE $2000. I THEN TOOK THE DURANGO TO MARSHALL MOTORS IN SALINA, KS, WHO IS THE DODGE DEALER FOR AN ALIGNMENT AND THEY SAID THE UPPER LEFT CONTROL ARM WAS BEYOND TOLERANCE AND MUST BE REPLACED AND ADVISED THE OTHER CONTROL ARMS WERE BEGINNING TO SHOW WEAR AND SHOULD BE REPLACED IN THE NEAR FUTURE. I HAD THE UPPER LEFT CONTROL ARM REPLACED AT THE COST OF $435.05 ON MARCH 25, 2003. IF THE PRESENT CONTROL ARE REPLACED WILL THE REPLACEMENT PARTS BE A REVISED PART OR WILL IT BE REPLACED WITH THE SAME FAULTY PART THAT WAS ORIGINALLY ON THE VEHICLE WHEN MANUFACTURED? ALSO, HAS THIS PART BEEN PERFECTED SO THE DANGER OF THIS HAPPENING AGAIN, AS OCCURRED ON THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT? IF REPLACEMENT OF FAULTY PARTS IS DONE AND THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THE DODGE DURANGO, WILL I BE REIMBURSED FOR THE EXPENSES THAT I'VE INCURRED IN ORDER TO MAKE THIS VEHICLE SAFE? THANK YOU. *AK

CONSUMER STATES BALL JOINTS WORE OUT PREMATURELY. DEALER NOTIFIED. *AK THE UPPER BALL JOINT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE HAD WORN OUT. THE UPPER BALL JOINT AND ARM WAS REPLACED. *SCC *JB

TRANSMISSION FAILED CAUSING VEHICLE NOT TO ACCELERATE.*JB..*AK

2000 DURANGO WITH 80,000 MILES. UPPER BALL JOINT FAILED CAUSING THE UPPER CONTROL ARM (AND DRIVERS SIDE WHEEL) TO SEPARATE FROM THE VEHICLE. THE TRUCK VIOLENTLY VEERED AND SKIDDED UNTIL IT CAME TO REST ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. LUCKILY THIS OCCURRED AT ONLY ABOUT 25 MPH, TWO MINUTES BEFORE, THE VEHICLE WAS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS!*AK *NM EA03-023. UPDATED *JB

OCCASIONALLY TRANSMISSION WILL NOT ENGAGE WHEN ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE FROM A STOP. TRANSMISSION IS IN DRIVE BUT ACTS AS IF IN PARK OR NEUTRAL. THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES WHEN ATTEMPTING TO PULL AWAY AFTER STOPPING FOR A TRAFFIC LIGHT. *NLM

EXCESSIVE TIRE WEAR ON 2000 DODGE DURANGO. NEW FRONT TIRES CUPPED AFTER 5000 MILES. COULD THIS BE RELATED TO A POTENTIAL DEFECT CURRENTLY UNDER INVESTIGATION PER A 7/22/03 NEWS RELEASE?. *AK

A MOANING NOISE FROM MY TRANSMISSION WHILE IT IS IN REVERSE. *LA

ALL FOUR VEHICLE CONTROL ARMS WERE WORN AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. *MR THE CONSUMER WAS CONCERNED ABOUT THE DEALERSHIP USING THE SAME CONTROL ARMS BECAUSE THEY WOULD PROBABLY EXPERIENCE THE SAME WEAR AND TEAR AGAIN. THE CONSUMER SUGGESTED THAT IT MAY BE A DEFECT AND IF SO, HE WANTED TO BE REIMBURSED FOR THE REPLACEMENT PARTS.*CB *JB

WINDING SOUND WHEN YOU LOCK OR UNLOCK THE DOORS. DRIVERS DOOR WON'T LOCK, PASSENGER FRONT DOOR DOSN'T UNLOCK, PASSENGER LEFT-REAR ALSO DOSN'T UNLOCK , PASSENGER RIGHT-REAR IS THE ONLY ONE THAT WORKS WITH THE KEY LESS ENTRY.*AK ALSO BOTH REAR WINDOWS DO NOT WORK. I MYSELF INSPECTED THE OPERATION OF THE LEFT REAR DOOR AND FOUND THAT THE ACTUATOR WAS BAD. I CRACKED OPEN ACTUATOR AND FOUND THAT THE GEAR WAS STRIPPED. THIS CAUSING THE WINDING SOUND AND FAILURE TO LOCK OR UNLOCK THE DOORS. THE GEAR IS MADE OF SOME KIND OF SOFT PLASTIC MATERIAL FOR THIS TO HAPPEN. ABOUT THE REAR WINDOW, I CHECKED AND FOUND POWER GOING TO THE MOTORS. BUT WITH ONE OF THE WINDOW MOTORS I TAPPED IT AND GOT IT TO WORK FOR ACOUPLE OF DAYS. WITH MY EXPERINCE AS AN AUTO/TRUCK/BUS TECHNICIAN THE MOTORS ARE DEFECTED ALONG WITH THE DOOR ACTUATORS. I HOPE THESE ISSUES CAN GET RESOLVED, BECAUSE OVERALL MY VEHICLE IS GOOD AT 60,000 MILES.

DOOR LOCK ON DRIVERS DOOR FAILED, HAS BEEN REPLACED 2 TIMES.

EVERY DOOR LOCK IN THE VEHICLE HAS FAILED CAUSING THE INABILITY TO OPEN THE DOOR MANUALLY. THE LOCK SYSTEM FAILS IN THE LOCKED POSITION AND REMAINS STUCK IN THE LOCKED POSITION CAUSING THE INABILITY TO OPEN THE DOOR FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. IF YOU DO A GOOGLE SEARCH YOU WILL NOTE THAT THERE ARE 100'S OF POSTINGS ON THIS PROBLEM. I FEEL THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE FROM A SAFETY STAND POINT TO NOT BE ABLE TO OPEN A DOOR DUE TO A FAULTY POWER LOCK. *TR

CONSUMER LOST ALL STEERING, THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE MECHANIC AND INDICATED THE FRONT TRACK BAR AND TIE ROD BROKE. *JB WHEN THE TIE RODS BROKE, THE LEFT THE FRONT WHEELS WERE WITHOUT THE ABILITY TO STEER AND WAS UNABLE TO SLOW OR STOP. THE ENTIRE RACK ASSEMBLY WAS REPLACED. SCC

THE STEERING, SUSPENSION, AND WHEELS SUCK!!! ON MY 2000 DODGE DURANGO.N FEB. 15, 2003 WHILE DRIVING MY DURANGO, IT TOTALLY LOST CONTROL, CAUSING ME TO SIDE SWIPE ONE CAR, THEN CAUSE DAMAGE TO A SECOND AND THIRD CAR. I CONTINUE TO DRIVE A VEHICLE THAT I DO NOT FEEL SAFE IN. WITH FOUR CHILDREN I CAN NOT AFFORD TO PURCHASE ANOTHER CAR. IF I COULD GET OUT OF MY CONTRACT WITH DODGE AND TRADE IT IN FOR A SAFER SUV, I WOULD. WHEN RIDING I CONSTANTLY EXPERIENCE MY REAR WHEELS SLIDING TO MY RIGHT; THIS USUALLY HAPPENS WHENEVER I RIDE OVER POT HOLES OR BUMPS IN THE STREET, WHICH IS PRACTICALLY EVEY COUPLE DOZEN FEET IN THE CITY. MY DRIVING EXPERIENCE WITH MY 2000 DODGE DURANGO IS SO UNSATISFYING. PRIOR TO ME PURCHASING MY DODGE, I WAS THE OWNER OF NOT ONE, BUT TWO TOYOTA CAMRY'S. I MADE THE CHOICE NOT TO GO BACK TO THE TOYOTA DEALER TO PURCHASE AN SUV. INSTEAD, AS A TOKEN OF MY APPRECIATION TO MY COUNTRY. I THOUGHT IT WAS BEST TO PURCHASE AN AMERICAN MADE VEHICLE; YOU KNOW, KEEP THE MONEY AT HOME. EVERY DAY I QUESTIONED THAT THEORY. USUALLY I'M NOT THIS HARSH OF A PERSON, BUT WHEN IT COMES DOWN TO MY CHILDREN'S SAFETY; WELL, I GET PRETTY PISSED. WE LIMIT OUR LONG DISTANCE TRAVELING TIME. I TOTALLY DO NOT DRIVE WHEN ITS RAINING, UNLESS I ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO. ON HIGHWAYS I DRIVE AT LEAST 5-10 MILES UNDER THE SPEED LIMIT; FOR FEAR OF LOSING CONTROL. AND TO TOP THINGS OFF I HAVE THIS GRINDING TYPE NOISE UP AND AROUND MY AXLE THING; THAT NO ONE AT THE TWO DODGE REPAIR GARAGES SEEMS TO KNOW WHAT IT IS EXACTLY. I HAD MY BALL JOINTS REPLACED TWICE. ONE MONTH AFTER I GOT BRAND NEW BRAKES PUT ON, THEY STARTED TO SQUEAK. I WAS TOLD THAT THE MAJORITY OF DODGE SUV'S BRAKES SQUEAK, ITS JUST HOW THE MANUFACTURERS MAKE THEM; GO FIGURE. *AK

SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE OF VEHICLE, THE NEW FRONT END TIRES WERE WORN OUT AND A SQUEEKING NOISE WAS ASSOCIATED. T IRES LOST TRACTION IN TURNS CAN LEAD TO ROLLOVERS. RONT CONTROL ARM/UPPER & LOWER WERE REPLACED WITH 4 NEW TIRES. SQUEAKING IN FRONT END STILL NOTICEABLE AND UNREPAIRED.*AK

TRANSFER CASE HAS GONE BAD. DODGE MISSED THE DIAGNOSIS AND SENT US BACK DRIVING UNTIL I WAS ABLE TO BRING IT BACK IN A APRIL (OVER A MONTH LATER). WE HAVE CURRENTLY ABOUT 75,000 MILES ON OUR 2000 DURANGO. THE TRANSFER CASE WENT BAD UNEXPECTEDLY AND UNTIMELY. OUR WHEELS COULD HAVE LOCKED UP WHILE WE WERE DRIVING CAUSING SERIOUS INJURY TO US AND OTHERS. *JB

BRAKE ROTORS WARP AFTER 3,000 MILES EVERY TIME THEY ARE REPLACED/TURNED-MAKES FOR VERY EXPENSIVE MAINTAINENCE. ALSO, WHEN BRAKING ON A "BUMPY" SURFACE (LIKE A ROAD UNDER CONSTRUCTION), BRAKES PULSE AND DO NOT STOP VEHICLE!!! *AK

FRONT LEFT AXEL COLLAPSED WHILE DRIVING WITH MY 3 CHILDREN. CAR LOST CONTROL DUE TO LACK OF STEERING ABILITY. RIGHT FRONT AXEL NEEDED TO BE REPLACED 5 MONTHS LATER

THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED BY THE DEALER ON THREE DIFFERENT OCCASIONS, THE TRANSMISSION WAS REPLACED LAST YEAR, AND THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE DOOR LOCK SYSTEM. *JB

I OWN A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. ON TWO DIFFERANT OCCASIONS I HAVE TAKEN MY DURANGO TO THE LOCAL DODGE DEALER TO HAVE THEM INVESTIGATE A POPPING SOUND IN THE FRONT END OF THE TRUCK. ON BOTH OCCASIONS THEY SAID THERE IS NOTHING WRONG AND THEY CAN'T FIND A PROBLEM WITH ANYTHING.*AK

AUTO TRANSMISSION DOES NOT ENGAGE WHEN IN DRIVE , ACTS LIKE IN NEUTRAL OR PARK. OIL CHANGES AND TRANSMISSION FLUID HAS BEEN SERVICED . DEALER WANTS OVER $3000.00 FOR A REBUILT TRANSMISSION. THIS IS A SAFTY ISSUSE DODGE NEEDS TO LOOK INTO. *JB

UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS UNUSUAL WEAR, REPLACED AT 70000 MILES. ALSO DEALER AND OIL CHANGE PLACE SAID SLUDGE IN ENGINE. I REGULARLY CHANGE MY OIL, THE INTAKE MANIFORD GASKET BLEW AND CAUSED ENGINE TO KNOCK AND HAVE SLUDGE. SPEED SENSOR IN REAR AXLE WENT BAD, CAUSING SPEEDOMETER AND ABS SYSTEM FAILURE. *AK

THE SEAT BELT IN THE BACK SEAT OF MY DURANGO COMES UNFASTENED, SUDDENLY. IT SEEMS TO BE SECURELY FASTENED, BUT JUST UNHOOKS FOR NO PARTICULAR REASON.*AK

ENGINE FAILURE IN MY 2000 DODGE DURANGO. ENGINE SHOWED OIL SLUDGING THAT CAUSED ENGINE FAILURE EVEN THOUGH CAR 2.5YRS OLD WITH 32K MILES.

WHILE DRIVING, VEHICLE STARTED SMOKING. IT STALLED AND EVERYTHING LOCKED UP. THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE WENT FROM NORMAL TO HOT VERY FAST. THE DEALERSHIP INDICATED THAT THE ENGINE HAD BLOWN. PH

MY 2000 DODGE DURANGO STARTED MISSING AND BACK FIRING AFTER MORNING WARM UP,PARKED THE CAR UNTIL NEXT DAY.TRIED TO START CAR IN MORNING AND NO GO.TOWED CAR TO DEALER WHERE THEY CHANGED PLUGS AND GOT IT RUNNING ONLY TO HERE A NOISE IN ENG UPON OPENING ENGINE THEY FOUND #3CYL BEAT UP AND HALF OF MY OTHER CYLS WITH LOW COMPRESSION.NO BROKEN PART FOUND THERE FORE NO COVERAGE FROM DODGE OR API WHO HOLDS THE 6YR-60000 WAR.MY CAR HAS ONLY 42000 AND NOW NEEDS ROUGHLY 6000.00 IN REPAIR. NO HELP FROM DODGE

COMPLETE ENGINE FAILURE DUE TO SLUDGE. 41K MILES. SCHEDULE A OIL CHANGES AS PER OWNERS MANUAL. THE DEALSHIP PERFORMED THE MAJORITY OF THE OIL CHANGES FOR WHICH THERE WERE RECORDS (THE LAST WAS JUST 2000 MI PRIOR TO FAILURE) THERE WERE A FEW THAT WERE PERFORMED BY ME FOR WHICH I COULDN'T PRODUCE THE RECEIPTS OF THE OIL AND FILTER PURCHASE. HENCE, NO SATISFACTION WAS PROVIDED BY EITHER THE DEALERSHIP OR CHRYSLER. AFTER RESEARCHING THE INCIDENT FURTHER, I HAVE FOUND THAT THERE ARE AT LEAST A COUPLE HUNDRED OTHERS WITH SIMILAR STORIES. OBVIOUSLY THESE ENGINES RUN EXCESSIVELY HOT UNDER NORMAL CIRCUMSTANCES, THUS PRODUCING SLUDGE THAT BUILDS UP OVER TIME (COLLECTING IN THE OIL PAN AND OBSTRUCTING THE PICKUP FILTER IN MY CASE) THAT IS NOT REMOVED BY ROUTINE OIL CHANGES. THIS SMACKS OF DESIGN FLAWS TO ME.

RIGHT REAR PASSENGER DOOR LOCKED FROM INSIDE AND OUTSIDE, A FEW WEEKS LATER, THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY, BUT THE WINDOW WILL NOT ROLL DOWN, AND EVER SINCE THEN, WHEN THE VEHICLE EXCEEDS 15 MPH, A LOUD BUZZING (DOORS LOCKING)SURPRISES GUEST PASSENGERS. *JB

TRANSMISSION HAS IRREGULAR SHIFTS BETWEEN GEARS. IT SEEMS TO FLUCTUATE BETWEEN 1ST AND 2ND GEAR, OR LIKE IT CAN'T PICK WHICH GEAR IT WANTS TO BE IN. TRANSMISSION CLUNKS BETWEEN DRIVE AND REVERSE. LARSON DODGE IN PUYALLUP TOLD ME IT WAS NORMAL AND THAT I SHOULD PAY FOR A TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE EVEN THOUGH IT WAS STILL UNDER FACTORY WARRANTY. SAID IT NEEDS SYNTHETIC TRANNY FLUID. ONLY 30K MILES ON IT.*AK

MY ENGINE IS FILLED WITH SLUDGE ALTHOUGH WE AHD REGULAR OIL CHANGES. BECAUSE WE COULD ONLY FIND TEH LAST THREE OIL CHANGE RECEIPTS, THE DEALER SAYS THEY ARE NOT GOING TO MAKE THE REPAIR. AT FIRST, THEY SID IT WAS AN OIL PUMP. I CALLED CHRYSLER AND THEY WERE WILLING TO REPLACE THE PUMP ALTHOUGH I AM 19K MILES OUT OF WARRANTY. THIS TELLS ME THEY KNEW THERE WAS A PROBLEM. NOW, AFTER SEARCHING THE INTERET AND CALLING AN ATTRONEY, I FIND 182 LIKE COMPLAINTS FOR THE 2000 MODEL YEAR DURANGO AND DAKOTA. NO ONE AT TEH CORPORATE OR DEALER LEVEL WILL WORK WITH ME UNLESS I PAY $6,000 FOR THE REPAIR. CAN ANYONE SAY CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT?

MY MOTHER IN LAW WAS LIFTING THE BACK HATCH OF HER 2000 DODGE DURANGO. IT WAS LIFTED ABOUT 3 INCHES, AND I WAS ATTEMPTING TO HELP HER LIFT IT, WHEN IT SLIPPED OUT OF HER HAND AND SLAMMED SHUT ON MY RIGHT HAND FIRST TWO FINGERS. IT WAS PULLED SHUT VERY FORCEFULLY BY SOME SORT OF SPRING- LIKE MECHANISM. MY FINGERS WERE LATCHED INTO THE DOOR WHEN IT CLOSED, RESULTING IN INJURY. FORTUNATELY, THEY WERE NOT BROKEN AT THE DIP, BUT COULD HAVE EASILY BEEN. WHAT RESULTED WAS A FLAP TYPE LESION, THAT RESULTED IN ABOUT A ONE INCH GASH IN MY INDEX FINGER, WHICH WILL LEAVE A VERY DISTINCT SCAR. I THINK THAT THOSE SPRING MECHANISMS SHOULD NOT BE IN THE REAR DOORS.

CONSUMER STATES THAT UPPER BALL JOINT IS WEARING PREMATURELY. DEALER NOTIFIED.*AK THE DEALER REPLACED THE UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS. *NM

THE" ABS" WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED CAUSING THE BRAKES LOCK. DEALER DIAGNOSED BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE CAUSED LOCK-UP. PH

AFTER TWO WEEKS OF PURCHASING OUR (2 YEARS OLD @ THAT TIME)DURANGO, AS WE WERE DRIVING WE HEARD A LOUD SCREACHING NOISE, WE FOUND A PIECE THAT APPEARANTLY BROKE OFF, IT HAD TO DO WITH THE BRAKES WE WERE TOLD. LATER OUR TRANSMISSION WASNT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY, IT NEEDED NEW SENSOR. WHEN STEERING IT SCREACHES (HAD PROBLEM RIGHT AFTER PURCHASING) AND ITS BEEN GETTING WORSE, WE TOOK IT TO DEALER AND THEY FLUSHED POWER STEERING FLUID AND WE ALSO HAD TO HAVE RIGHT BALL JOINT REPLACED AT THE SAME TIME. WHEN STEERING IT STILL SOUNDS BAD. WE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY A YEAR AFTER PURCHASING ONE AT THE DEALERSHIP AND A MONTH AFTER THAT OUR TRANSMISSION WENT OUT. DEALER WANTED TO CHARGE $3700.00. WE TOOK IT SOMEWHERE ELSE, HOPE TO PICK UP TODAY FROM SHOP WILL BE PAYING $2570.00. *AK

TRANSMISISON SLIPS WHEN CHANGING FROM 1 TO 2 AND 2 TO 3. DEALER SAYS I AM A "GOOD CUSTOMER" AND WILL "EXTEND" WARRANTY TO COVER THIS FOR A $250 DEDUCTIBLE, OR THIS WOULD HAVE COST ME $2300. I APPRECIATE THE EFFORT, BUT I BELIEVE CHRYSLER HAS A PROBLEM WITH THIS FAMILY OF TRANSMISSIONS. I HAVE 36.5K MILES, THE 36 MONTHS PORTION WAS UP IN OCTOBER. THERE ARE SEVERAL PERSONS AT WORK WHO HAVE EXPERIENCED SAME TYPE SYMPTOMS RELATED TO TRANS. THIS TRANS IS ALSO USED ON DAKOTAS, DURANGOS AND AT LEAST THE 1500 RAMS. THE DURANGO OWNERS CLUB WEBSITE HAS ALSO HAD SEVERAL POSTS JUST FOR DECEMBER RELATED TO TRANSMISISONS WITH VEHICLES STARTING IN "98. HOW MANY MORE ARE OUT THERE THAT CHRYSLER IS NOT ADMITTING TO? DEALER DIDN'T OPEN TRANS, JUST ORDERED THE REBUILD KIT (LAST MONDAY). AS OF THIS MORNING, 12-30-02, MY TRUCK WAS STILL NOT BEING WORKED ON, HAVE HAD PARTS SINCE 12-26-02.

ABS IS NOT WORKING, AND WHEN I BOUGHT THE USED SUV I DIDN'T NOTICE THAT THE ABS LIGHT ON THE DASH WAS GOING OUT BUT AT THE SAME TIME THE RED BRAKE LIGHT WAS GOING OUT. 9 SECONDS INSTEAD OF 3 SECONDS LIKE MITCHEL SAYS. I CHECKED THE BILL OF SALE AND FOUND THAT THE MILEAGE THAT WAS WRITTEN ON IT WAS NOT THE MILEAGE THAT I BOUGHT IT AT. I NEVER NOTICED THAT BEFORE. MY BROTHER DROVE THE SUV IN THE WINTER WITH SNOW ON THE ROAD AND HE TOLD ME THAT THE ABS WAS NOT WORKING,THEN I TRIED IT AND SAW FOR MYSELF. *JB

THE DOOR LOCKS ARE ELECTRICAL AND WILL LOCK INTERMITTENLY. TS

WITHIN 3 YEARS AND 36,000 MILES, I'VE EXPERIENCED NUMEROUS MECHANICAL DEFECTS W/ THIS DURANGO: 2 CRANKSHAFT SENSORS, 1 CAMSHAFT SENSOR, FAILURE OF POWER DOOR LOCKS, ERRATIC IDLE, REPLACEMENT OF ROTORS (28,000 MILES) AND MOST RECENTLY, THE NEED FOR A NEW UNIVERSAL JOINT, REAR AXLE. TS

WHILE DRIVING THE ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED; ALSO , THE TRANSMISSION LIGHT. CONSUMER TOOK VEHICLE TO THE DEALER, AND DEALER RESET MEMORY, 60 MILES LATER THE TRANSMISSION FAILED. PLEASE PROVIDE ANY FURTHER INFORMATION. TS....*AK

CONSUMER STATED THAT WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES THE BRAKE PEDAL WOULD GO TO THE FLOOR CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO HAVE EXTENDED STOPPING DISTANCE AND STRUCK THE VEHICLE IN FRONT. DEALER NOTIFIED. TS

DT: THE OIL PRESSURE FAILED WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY. THE CONSUMER HAD TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER AND HAD THE OIL PUMP REPLACED THREE TIMES. BOTH HEADS HAVE BEEN REPLACED. THE SLUDGE HAS BEEN CLEANED OUT, AND THE ENGINE STILL HAD NO OIL PRESSURE. NO LEAKS HAVE BEEN NOTICED. THE VEHICLE CAN BE DRIVEN FOR ABOUT 3 MILES, AND THEN THE OIL PRESSURE WILL DROP. *JB

CONSUMER STATED THAT WHEN IN A VEHICLE ACCIDENT THE DRIVER SEAT CAME OFF THE TRACKS AND THE SEAT BELT CAME UNBUCKLED. DEALER NOTIFIED. TS

THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY DURING A FRONTAL COLLISION. TS *JB

I HAVE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON MY DASH BOARD. I TOOK THE CAR INTO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY RAN A DIAGNOSTIC TEST ON THE CAR AND IT INDICATE THAT THE " DIAGNOSTIC TEST DTL FOR THE TORQUE CONVERTOR CLUTCH CIRCUIT FAILURE INTFRMAL, RECOMMEND O/H TRANSMISSION." I WAS ADVISED OF THE PROBLEM. MY ISSUE IS THAT THE CAR IS A 2000 MODEL AND HAS 44,500 MILES ON IT AND THE CAR HAS A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ALREADY. THERE IS NO NOISE OR FEELING OF THE ACCELERATION OR CHANGE OF GEAR PROBLEMS. WHY HAVE TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS THIS EARLY IN THE CAR LIFE.

WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE. CONSUMER STATES' THE WHOLE RIGHT FRONT WHEEL ASSEMBLY BECAME DETACHED FROM VEHICLE. PLEASE PROVIDE FURTHER INFORMATION. TS EA03-023

CONSUMER STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED AND WITHOUT WARNING THE STEERING BOLTS ARE LOSE AND IT IS CAUSING STEERING WHEEL TO JUMP. DEALER NOTIFIED. TS

WHILE DRIVING 5 MPH AND TURNING LEFT INTO A PARKING SPACE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT WHEEL SEPARATED FROM THE SUSPENSION. DEALER STATED THAT BALL JOINTS SEPARATED. THERE WAS NO INJURIES. *AK EA03-023

CONSUMER WAS DRIVING WITH 4-WHEEL DRIVE ENGAGED AND HAD TO MAKE A U-TURN. WHILE COMPLETING U-TURN, CONSUMER NOTICED DID NOT HAVE ANY BRAKE FUNCTION. STOPPED CAR AND REMOVED KEY FROM IGNITION. ENGINE STOPPED, BUT RADIO AND DASH LIGHTS REMAINED LIT. CONSUMER DROVE HOME AND AGAIN REMOVED KEY AND RADIO AND DASH REMAINED OPERATIVE. CONSUMER WAS CHARGING A FLASHLIGHT WHICH WAS PLUGGED INTO THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER. CONSUMER REMOVED CHARGER AND RADIO AND DASH TURNED OFF. PLUGGED CHARGER BACK IN AND RADIO/DASH TURNED BACK ON. TS

MY 2000 DODGE DURANGO WITH APPROXIMATELY 30,000 MILES ON IT MYSTERIOUSLY AND UNEXPECTEDLY BURST INTO FLAMES IN THE FRONT END. WITHIN SIXTY SECONDS, THE ENTIRE VEHICLE WAS ENGULFED AND BECAME A TOTAL LOSS. THREE VARIOUS FIRE INVESTIGATORS WERE UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE RESULTANT CAUSE OF THE BLAZE.*AK

2000 DODGE DURANGO. ON TWO OCCASIONS I HAD MY DURANGO IN FOR PREMATURE BALLJOINTS. THE LEFT UPPER AND LOWER HAD TO BE REPLACED AND THEN THE RIGHT AND LEFT TIE RODS. I WAS TOLD THAT THE TIERODS SHOULD HAVE BEEN REPLACED WHEN THE BALLJOINT WAS REPLACED. I ONLY HAD APPROXIMATELY 40,000 MILES ON MY CAR WHEN THEY WERE REPLACED. I HAD TO PAY $150 PLUS A CAR RENTAL FOR THIS REPAIR WHICH TOOK TWO DAYS BECAUSE THE DEALER DIDN'T HAVE THE PARTS IN STOCK.