2020 Honda CR-V Complaint Log

I've owned this car for 4 years. The automatic braking has engaged a couple of times each year. There is never any traffic in front of me when this happens. It only happens on multi-lane highways. It has happend during the day and at night. Weather is always clear when it happens.

INSTRUMENT DISPLAY WENT DARK AND FAILED WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT. CAR STILL RAN AND WAS DRIVABLE, BUT I HAD NO IDEA ABOUT SPEED OR ENGINE STATUS. WHILE TAKING IT TO THE DEALER LATER THAT DAY, THE DISPLAY BECAME VISIBLE BUT ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON IN SEQUENCE REPEATEDLY. THE DEALERSHIP CONTACTED HONDA AND AFTER 2 DAYS IN THE SHOP DETERMINED IT WAS DUE TO AN INSTRUMENT DISPLAY CLUSTER FAILURE. I AM STILL AWAITING A FINAL RESOLUTION/REPAIR. NOTE THAT THE LIGHTS DID NOT FAIL DURING THIS EVENT, BUT IT STILL WAS VERY DISCONCERTING FOR NIGHT DRIVING. I WAS DRIVING ON A CITY STREET AT THE TIME OF THE EVENT AT ABOUT 30 MPH IN A STRAIGHT LINE. AC WAS ON BUT NO RADIO OR WIPERS. *TR

APPROXIMATELY 10-15% OF THE TIME, WHEN TRYING TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL BEFORE PRESSING THE 'START' BUTTON ON MY 2020 HONDA CR-V, THE BRAKE PEDAL CANNOT BE DEPRESSED. IT IS FIRMLY LOCKED/JAMMED IN PLACE. IN SOME INSTANCES, I CAN APPLY VERY FIRM PRESSURE ON THE PEDAL, JUST ENOUGH TO GET THE ENGINE TO START, BUT IN OTHER CASES, THE PEDAL CANNOT BE DEPRESSED AT ALL. WHEN THIS OCCURS, PRESSING THE 'START' BUTTON INITIATES THE ELECTRONIC SYSTEMS BUT DOES NOT START THE ENGINE. ONCE ELECTRONIC SYSTEMS ARE ON, THE PEDAL SOMETIMES REMAINS FIRMLY LOCKED, AND OTHER TIMES MAY SLIGHTLY SOFTEN TO THE POINT THAT I CAN PRESS THE START BUTTON AGAIN AND START THE ENGINE. DURING INSTANCES WHEN THE PEDAL REMAINS FIRMLY LOCKED, I MAY HAVE TO PRESS THE 'START' BUTTON SEVERAL TIMES, CYCLING ELECTRONICS ON AND OFF BEFORE THE PEDAL EVENTUALLY SOFTENS ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE ENGINE TO START. THE PEDAL ISSUE SEEMS RANDOM, REGARDLESS OF WARM OR COLD ENGINE, TERRAIN, WEATHER CONDITIONS, USE OF PARKING BRAKE, PRESSING THE PEDAL REPEATEDLY, ETC. BASED ON OTHER SIMILAR ONLINE REVIEWS, THERE IS GROWING CONCERN THAT THE PEDAL CAN LOCK WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION, CAUSING A LOSS OF BRAKING CAPABILITY IN AFFECTED VEHICLES INCLUDING CR-V, PILOT, AND RIDGELINE. SPECULATIVE CAUSES MAY BE A BRAKE VACUUM/BOOSTER DEFECT. TWO LOCAL DEALERSHIPS CLAIMED THEY ARE UNFAMILIAR WITH THE PROBLEM AND A TECHNICIAN REVIEWING THE VEHICLE SAID EVERYTHING WAS WORKING FINE, SO THEY APPARENTLY HAVE NOT EXPERIENCED THE JAMMED BRAKE PEDAL IN PERSON. *TR

I just leased my crv 2020 on May of 2019 and after a week or 2 I had my car battery die on me. Jump started it and took it to Honda and they said they will change the battery. After 2 weeks it happened again and they changed it again. Around March of this year 2022 it happened again and they changed it again. And today it won’t start again. Since it’s 4th of July weekend I have to take it to them Tuesday.

Brake intermittently does not push down making it impossible to start the car. I have to open the door and close it then the brake will go down. Also, one time I was stopped while driving trying to get out in traffic and the brake came up and was hard as a rock. I quickly opened the door and closed it and the brake went back down. I have had it at the dealership about this 3 times. The third time the service department Forman had it happen to him but he said he didn’t know why. Nothing was done.

I PURCHASE A HONDA CR-V 2020 ON FEBRUARY 3 2020 TWO MONTH LATER I STARTED TO HEAR A CLICKING AND CLOCKING NOISE WHILE STEERING AND DRIVING ALONG ALSO ON BUMPS IT WAS TAKEN TO THE SHOP ON APRIL 22 2020 TO CURRY HONDA ON APRIL 23 2020 I RECEIVED A CALLED FROM CURRY THAT IT WAS THE FRONT SIDE AXLE THEY REPAIRED THE AXLE AND THE NOISE OCCURRED. CURRY HONDA CHECK SWAYBARLINK AND REMOVE THEM AND THE NOISE STILL OCCURRED THEN CURRY HONDA SAID IT WAS THE STRUCK ASSEMBLY AND THEY SAID THEY REINSTALLED THE STRUCK AND THE NOISE STILL HAPPENED CURRY HONDA THEN ADVISE ME THEY HAVE TO CONTACT TECH LINE TO SEE IF A ENGINEER CAN COME TO LOOK AT VEHICLE THE ENGINEER FOUND IT WAS A FAULTY TRANSMISSION MOUNT ON MAY 5 2020 I PICK UP MY HONDA CR-V STAYING THE VEHICLE WAS FIX ON MAY 9 2020 THE NOISE OCCURRED AGAIN I RETURNED THE VEHICLE AGAIN ON MAY 11 2020 [XXX] SERVICE MANAGER HAD MASTER TECH TEST DRIVE MY 2020 HONDA CR-V TO VERIFY THE NOISE THE TECHNICIAN DROVE AROUND THE PARKING LOT CAME BACK IN VERIFIED THE NOISE [XXX] SERVICE MANAGER SAID THEY NEED TO GET THE HONDA FILLED ENGINEER BACK TO CURRY TO LOOK AT MY VEHICLE SO ON MAY 14 2020 DROP MY CAR OFF FOR THE SAME NOISE CAR WAS THERE UNTIL MAY 20 2020 STATED IN WAS A FAULTY TRANSMISSION MOUNT THAT WAS REPLACED ON MAY 21 2020 I STARTED TO HEAR THE SAME NOISE SLIGHTLY WHEN STEERING AND HITTING BUMPS NOW I'M WAITING ON HONDA CORPORATION TO DO WITH THIS MATTER. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

THIS IS A 2020 HONDA CRV. THE PROBLEM IS AN INTERMITTENT ACCELERATION HESITATION. A DEFINITE SAFETY ISSUE.

Windshield has a significant refraction causing issues with visibility at night. Light passing through windshield is variably refracted depending on eye level and viewing angle. Issue has existed since car delivered. Vehicle was taken to dealer and advised of this several times with no fix attempted to date. Will continue to seek remediation from manufacturer and will consider lemon law if not resolved. This is becoming a common issue with more windshields as there are no real standards for windshield light refraction.

SOON BEFORE DRIVING MY NEW VEHICLE, IN A PRELIMINARY INSPECTION, I FOUND EXTENSIVE RUSTING AROUND THE EXHAUST PIPES AND SYSTEM. THE MECHANIC FROM THE DEALERSHIP SAID THAT WAS NORMAL. JUST BEFORE DRIVING, THE MILLAGE SCREEN READ AS 000019. THE DEALER TOLD US THIS IS 0.019 OF A MILE. SOON AFTER I DROVE MY CAR OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP, I EXPERIENCED 4 EPISODES OF CAR BECOMING UNSTABLE, FLIPPING FROM ONE SIDE OF ROAD TO THE OTHER. THIS OCCURRED OVER A 23 MILES OF DRIVING IN HIGH WAY. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP IMMEDIATELY. THEY DISMISSED IT AS NORMAL. AT ARRIVAL, AFTER DRIVING 23 MILES, THE MILEAGE SCREEN READ 42 MILES. THE DEALER THEN ADMITTED THE INITIAL READ WAS IN FACT 19 MILES NOT 0.019 MILE.

I AM EXPERIENCING THE ENGINE OIL DILUTION PROBLEM. I HAD THE OIL CHANGED AFTER LESS THAN 2000 MILES DRIVEN BECAUSE IT LOOKED LIKE SPENT OIL (DARK AND CLOUDY) AND SMELLED HEAVILY OF GASOLINE. TECHNICIANS AT HONDA ADVISED THAT I KEEP GETTING THE OIL CHANGED REGULARLY, BUT THAT THERE WAS NO FIX THAT THEY COULD MAKE TO THE OIL DILUTION PROBLEM.

In March/April 2020 I was driving at 65 miles per hour on a rural highway. The only vehicles on the road were my car, the pickup in front of me and the pickup behind me. Since the highway was so quiet, I decided to try Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC). I set it for 65 miles per hour (the speed limit). We had been driving for about 15 minutes, each car maintaining the same speed and distance. The pickup in front of me turned on his turn signal for a right turn and entered the right turn lane. As my car approached the pickup, in the turn lane, the automatic braking system activated. I lunged forward, the seat belt activated, braking warning was displayed on screen and there was an audible alarm. I managed to take control of the vehicle and to accelerate. I was afraid the vehicle behind me would collide with me. I turned off ACC and tried to regain my composure. When the pickup moved into the right hand lane, there was nothing in front of me as far as the eye could see; just open highway. I will never use ACC again. Yesterday, December 19, I was driving on a side street. I had just exited a school zone, speed limit 15, and my speed was now approximately 22, no vehicles in front of me just some cars parked at the curb ahead to my right. There was an audible tone and the word BRAKE displayed on the screen. The brakes did not activate.

WHILE PARKED AND LOCKED ALL FOUR WINDOWS ROLLED DOWN WITHOUT ANY ONE IN THE SUV