2012 Honda Odyssey Electrical System Problems

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2012 Honda Odyssey. The contact discovered that there was a mileage discrepancy after the purchase. The vehicle was a private sale. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 80,000. It was later discovered, after checking the Carfax report that the mileage was 285,000.

Odometer Fraud. The contact purchased a 2012 Honda Odyssey. The contact stated that while attempting to register the vehicle, it was discovered that there was a mileage discrepancy. The vehicle was a private sale. At the time of purchase, the vehicle mileage was 130,000, and at the time of registration, it was discovered that the mileage was 230,000. Local authorities had been notified.

While driving on Thursday, 18 April 2024, the CHECK CHARGE SYSTEM alert and warning light came on in my 2012 Odyssey. I was able to get to a garage that was a few miles away, but the electrical system gave out about 1/4 mile from the garage. I was able to shift into neutral and coast into the parking lot. The dash lights were all off and the electrical system had stopped working. When I tried to exit the vehicle, I could not open the driver door. The lock was frozen in place and wouldn’t budge. I was able to pull the handle, but it did not unlatch or open the door. The power lock buttons did not work either. I tried all the other doors and it was the same situation. I was literally trapped inside my minivan. Someone tried opening it from the outside and that did not work as the doors had auto locked due to driving. The hood release mechanism worked fine, so I was able to pop the hood and a the mechanic jump started my battery and I was then able to unlock and open my car door. This is a serious safety concern as it suggests that an electric system shutdown due to fire, immersion in water, or other emergency situation would render any occupants stuck inside the vehicle. The mechanic evaluated the situation and said my alternator was broken and needed to be replaced. He did that successfully and I was back on the road in about 2 hours. It’s been running fine since then. I think this is a serious issue that Honda needs to address.

Drivers side heated seat switch turns on then off shortly after.

The contact owns a 2012 Honda Odyssey. The contact stated while driving 30 MPH, several unknown warning lights were illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed a failure with the alternator. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 132,000.

Prior to the problem, the radio cut off, various lights (battery, abs, etc) lit up and Check System warning light appeared. The car remained running for approximately 10 miles although stepping on the accelerator did not always result in increased speed. Touching the brake caused the RPM gauge & speedometer to immediately drop to zero and removing my foot from the brake immediately resulted in both gauges resuming correct reading. Eventually, the car ceased to function and I removed the key. Then I tried to exit the vehicle. None of the doors would open and I remained in the car until my wife arrived with a spare set of keys which opened the door. A mechanic later determined the alternator needed replacement. Had I not had a mobile phone to call someone, I might still be there. Had the weather been either extremely hot or cold the consequences could have been life threatening

The power door was not shutting correctly. A 5 year old was getting into the car when the door decided to shut. It hit her, and then reopened. When it reopened, the door went off the tracks and fell on my husband. Now the door is completely off the tracks and the body of the car is messed up.

I SCANNED MY VEHICLE WITH A FOXWELL 624ELITE AND FOUND THE FOLLOWING: 1. ANTI LOCK BRAKE TRACTION VEHICLE (FAULT I2) ABS/TCS/VSA 2. BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH 62_1 PERMANENT DTC 3. BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW61_1 PERMANENT DTC 4. BODE ELECTRICAL INTEGRATED CONTROL SYSTEM (FAULT I1) 5. REAR COMMUNICATION FAILURE PERMANENT DTC B2965

VAN CAUGHT FIRE WHILE DRIVING

I WAS DRIVING/EXITING A PARKING GARAGE ONTO A STREET INTO TRAFFIC. SUDDENLY, THE PANEL LIGHTS AND AND CABIN LIGHTS STARTED FLASHING AND THE RADIO AND AC CUT OFF, AND IMMEDIATELY AFTER, THE CAR CUT OFF AND I COASTED, THROUGH CARS MOVING AT SPEED, TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE CAR WAS IN MOTION ON A CITY STREET. AT THE HONDA DEALERSHIP THEY TOOK A FEW DAYS TO CONTACT ME, THEN TOLD ME I NEED TO PAY $800 FOR A BATTERY CABLE BEFORE THEY DIAGNOSE ANY ISSUES WITH THE ALTERNATOR.

THIS VEHICLE HAD ISSUE ON ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THIS VEHICLE IS ABOUT 100K MILES AND HAD BEEN CHANING 3 BATTERIES AND IT MEAN THAT 4HT BATERRY INSTALLED ON THIS VEHICLE. LUCAS HONDA DEALER CHANGED THREE TIMES PLUS ORIGINAL BATTERY. AS PER SPOKEN TO LUCAS HONDA CUSTOMER SERVICE FOR THE BATTERY PROBLEM. CUSTOMER SAID; "THERE IS NORMAL". I DID NOT BRING THIS VEHICLE FOR THIRD TIMES BECAUSE I THINK I WILL HEAR SAME AS IT "NORMAL". I HAVE YOUNG KID AND I HOPE THIS VEHICLE WILL NOT BREAK DOWN ON INTERSTATE OR MOUNTAIN, OR MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC. I WOULD LIKE YOUR ADVICE SO THE ISSUE SHOULD BE FIX.

DRIVER-SIDE AND PASSENGER-SIDE DOORS ELECTRIC POWERED DOOR CABLE SNAPPED WHILE DOORS WERE OPENING TRAPPING OCCUPANTS IN THE BACKSEAT. DOORS COULD NOT OPEN FULLY TO ALLOW EGRESS OUT OF THE VEHICLE. UNABLE TO OPEN DOORS MANUALLY DO TO WIRE STUCK IN PULLEY SYSTEM. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY.

IN A STORE PARKING LOT, THE MINIVAN WAS SHUT OFF AND PARKED, MY HUSBAND TOOK THE KEYS AND LOCKED ME IN THE MINIVAN, NOT KNOWING I WOULD HAVE NO WAY OUT OF THE MINIVAN. I WAITED IN THE MINIVAN PERHAPS 10 MINUTES. THEN, I TRIED TO LEAVE THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR. THE DOOR WOULD NOT UNLOCK, BOTH MANUALLY MOVING THE UNLOCK SWITCH NOR HITTING THE UNLOCK BUTTON. INSTEAD THE CAR ALARM WENT OFF. I THEN TRIED TO LOWER THE POWER WINDOW ON THE PASSENGER DOOR, BUT IT DID NOT WORK. I THEN TRIED TO EXIT THE DRIVER DOOR. IT WAS LOCKED. THE MANUAL SWITCH AND AUTOMATIC DOOR UNLOCK BUTTON WOULD NOT WORK. I TRIED TO OPEN THE DRIVER WINDOW THROUGH THE POWER CONTROL BUTTON AND IT DID NOT OPEN. I TRIED TO OPEN THE POWER SUNROOF. IT DID NOT OPEN. I HIT THE OPEN TRUNK BUTTON, IT DID NOT OPEN. I TRIED THE SIDE SLIDING DOORS AND THEY DID NOT UNLOCK. I MADE SURE THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK WAS OFF AND RETRIED ALL OF THE AFOREMENTIONED ITEMS AND NOTHING UNLOCKED. I WAS TRAPPED IN MY MINIVAN ON A WARM DAY. I WAS SWEATING. I CHECKED THE OWNERS MANUAL AND TRIED EVERYTHING IN IT, BUT NONE OF IT WORKED. THE MINIVAN CAR ALARM REMAINED ON FOR A FEW MINUTES AND NO ONE WOULD HELP WALKING BY, PROBABLY BECAUSE OF THE CAR ALARM. AFTER ANOTHER FEW MINUTES, SOMEONE CAME TO THE MINIVAN AND I ASKED THEM FOR HELP AS BEST I COULD. THEY GAVE A DESCRIPTION OF MY MINIVAN/PLATE TO THE NEARBY STORE AND THEY FOUND MY HUSBAND OVER THE STORE INTERCOM. HE CAME OUT AND UNLOCKED ME WITH THE KEYS. I WAS TRAPPED IN THE MINIVAN FOR AROUND 20 MINUTES ALTOGETHER. IF NO ONE WOULD HAVE LUCKILY WALKED BY, I WOULD HAVE BEEN TRAPPED LONGER. I AM SCARED MY KIDS COULD GET TRAPPED IN THE MINIVAN OR I COULD GET TRAPPED AGAIN.

AFTER STOPPING THE CAR HAS TRIED TO ACCELERATE ON ITS OWN WHILE THE BRAKE WAS APPLIED. SIX TIMES SINCE PURCHASE, FOUR TIMES THIS YEAR. I HAVE REPORTED THE PROBLEM TWICE TO HONDA SERVICE AS IT OCCURED TWICE ON THE WAY THERE FOR AN OIL CHANGE. THE CAR WAS DEFINITELY STOPPED AT BUSY INTERSECTIONSA AND TURNING IT OFF DID NOT STOP THE PROBLEM IMMEDIATELY. IT REQUIRED TWO OR THREE ON AND OFFS IN BUSY TRAFFICE. HAVE TRIED TO VIDEOTAPE PROBLEM BUT TRAFFIC HAS SPOOKED MY ABILITY AND CONCERN THAT ENGINE WOULD BLOW, SO LOUD IS THE REARING UP. ONLY AFFIRMATION IS MY WIFE AS AN EYEWITNESS ONCE, AND TWO REPAIR BILLS THAT SHOW REPORT OF PROBLEM IN 2017. ONE IN MAY AND ONE IN NOVEMBER. SERVICE SAYS COMPUTER SHOULD CONFIRM PROBLEMS AND THAT IT IS HONDA, NOT HONDA DEALERS ULTIMATE PROBLEM.

DRIVER'S SIDE HEATED SEAT NO LONGER FUNCTIONS. ONLINE FORUMS SUGGEST THAT IT IS A CONTINUITY ISSUE IN THE SEAT. THE HEATING WIRE HAS BROKEN SOMEWHERE NO LONGER CREATING A CLOSED CIRCUIT. LOCAL HONDA DEALER ACKNOWLEDGES THE ISSUE BUT WANTS TO CHARGE $600+ TO FIX.

I JUST HAD TO HAVE THE PASSENGER SLIDING DOOR MOTOR REPLACED ON MY ODYSSEY. THE DOOR WOULD NOT CLOSE. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO CLOSE, THEY DOOR WOULD SHUT ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY AND THEN STOP. SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT THE DEALER ADVISED THAT THE MOTOR WAS BAD AND HAD TO BE REPLACED. MY CONCERN IS THAT THE ODYSSEY WAS DESIGNED WITH A SWITCH WHERE YOU CAN DISABLE THE MOTORIZED FEATURE AND OPEN/CLOSE THE DOOR MANUALLY. HOWEVER, WHEN MY MOTOR WENT BAD, I WAS UNABLE TO MANUALLY OPEN AND CLOSE THE DOOR. SERVICE DEPARTMENT ADVISED THAT THE CABLE SYSTEM RUNS THROUGH THE MOTOR SO WHEN IT WENT BAD, THE CABLES WOULD NO LONGER FUNCTION ALLOWING MANUAL OPERATION. THIS SEEMS LIKE A DESIGN FLAW THAT CAN POSE A SAFETY ISSUE AS MY DOOR WAS STUCK IN THE OPEN POSITION UNABLE TO CLOSE. THIS OCCURRED AFTER ARRIVING HOME AND WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED.

THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE BECAME DISCONNECTED FROM THE BATTERY TERMINAL POST WHILE DRIVING AT FULL HIGHWAY SPEED (75 MPH)!! THIS RESULTED IN COMPLETE ELECTRICAL FAILURE. I WAS ABLE TO PULL OFF THE ROAD, BUT THE DOOR LOCKS WERE LOCKED AND INOPERABLE. WITHOUT POWER I WAS UNABLE TO UNLOCK THE DOORS OR ROLL DOWN THE WINDOWS. WITHOUT POWER I HAD NO AIR CONDITIONING. I WAS TRAPPED IN THE CAR ON A HOT DAY. THE BATTERY CABLE MISMATCH (CLAMP TOO BIG TO TIGHTEN COMPLETELY ON POST) IS A KNOWN ODYSSEY PROBLEM THAT HAS BEEN DISCUSSED ON ONLINE FORUMS. DOOR AUTO-LOCKING PROBLEMS IN A VARIETY OF HONDA MODELS HAVE ALSO BEEN DOCUMENTED. PUTTING THE TWO TOGETHER IS A DEADLY MIX. WITHOUT A CELL PHONE TO CALL MY HUSBAND AND 911, I AND MY THREE SMALL DOGS WOULD HAVE DIED IN THE HOT CAR. THIS IS A FATAL DESIGN FLAW.

WHEN STATIONARY, THE VAN'S POWER SLIDING DOORS WERE STRUGGLING TO CLOSE; IT WOULD FREQUENTLY START, AND THEN POP BACK OPEN. WE TOOK IT TO THE HONDA DEALERSHIP, WHO SAID THEY COULDN'T FIND ANY PROBLEMS EXCEPT THAT THE TRACKS WERE DIRTY, BUT OFFERED NO SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO FIX THIS (ALSO WE COULD SEE NO DEBRIS TO VALIDATE THIS CLAIM). WE CONTINUED TO USE DOORS WITH DIFFICULTY UNTIL THERE WAS A LOUD POP ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE, AND SUDDENLY A CABLE WAS HANGING OUT. MOTOR COULD STILL BE HEARD, BUT WOULD NO LONGER OPERATE DOOR WITH BUTTONS, SO WE CLOSED IT MANUALLY FOR SEVERAL MONTHS. ONE DAY WHILE OPENING OR CLOSING MANUALLY, THE WHOLE DOOR CAME OFF OF THE TRACK AND COULD NOT GET IT BACK ON OURSELVES. WE HAD TO HAVE SOMEONE RIDE IN THE BACK, HOLDING THE DOOR CLOSED ENOUGH TO GET TO A SHOP, WHERE THEY PUT IT BACK ON THE TRACK FOR $400. THIS DID NOT RESTORE IT TO MOTORIZED FUNCTIONING, BUT ALLOWED US TO USE IT MANUALLY, THOUGH A SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF EXTERIOR DAMAGE TO OUR VEHICLE WAS CAUSED IN THE PROCESS OF PUTTING IT BACK INTO PLACE. WE CONTINUED TO USE THE DOOR MANUALLY UNTIL WE COULD AFFORD TO HAVE THE MOTOR REPLACED ON THE BROKEN DOOR. WITHIN 24 HOURS OF REPLACEMENT, THE INITIAL ISSUES REAPPEARED ON THAT DOOR, AND THE PASSENGER SLIDING DOOR IS ALSO HAVING FREQUENT DIFFICULTIES. THEY NOW BOTH STRUGGLE WITH BOTH OPENING AND CLOSING. WE RECENTLY HAD TO LEAVE THE VEHICLE STANDING OPEN IN A PARKING LOT WHILE WE WENT INTO A BUSINESS AFTER TRYING HALF A DOZEN TIMES TO USE THE POWER CLOSE WHILE PUSHING ON THE DOOR MANUALLY. WE PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE SPECIFICALLY FOR THE CONVENIENCE OF POWER DOORS FOR OUR GROWING FAMILY, BUT I'M TRULY CONCERNED THAT I'M GOING TO BE STRANDED IN THE HEAT WITH 4 SMALL CHILDREN BECAUSE WE CAN'T GET THE DOOR TO CLOSE. DEALERSHIP IS NOW QUOTING US $3K TO DO ADDITIONAL REPAIRS WHILE CLAIMING THEY'RE NOT TOTALLY SURE WHAT THE ISSUE IS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 HONDA ODYSSEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHE HAD EXPERIENCED AN INTERMITTENT DRIVER SIDE SLIDING DOOR FAILURE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT UPON PULLING THE DRIVER SIDE SLINGING DOOR HANDLE, THE DOOR WOULD NOT SLIDE BACK AS NEEDED. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO HONDA OF ESCONDIDO (1700 AUTO PARK WAY N, ESCONDIDO, CA 92029) WHERE THEY FAILED TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE DEALER WAS ABLE TO REPLACE ALL THE CABLE WIRES IN THE DEFECTIVE DOOR HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE CONTACT BROUGHT THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER TEN MONTHS LATER WHERE THEY PERFORMED A LATCH ADJUSTMENT ON THE DEFECTIVE DOOR; DESPITE THE REPAIR, THE FAILURE STILL PERSISTED. SINCE THE LAST REPAIR, THE FAILURE BECAME MORE FREQUENT AND THE DEALER HAD RECENTLY SUGGESTED THAT THE CABLES BE REPLACED YET AGAIN. THE MANUFACTURER HAD YET TO BE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD YET TO BE REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 50,000.

THE BATTERY CUTS OUT WHEN I DRIVE THROUGH A PUDDLE OF WATER MORE THAN 2" HIGH. THE DASHBOARD BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON & THE STEERING LOCKS. THIS VERY DANGEROUS WHEN I AM MAKING A RIGHT TURN & HAVE TO DRIVE THROUGH THAT PUDDLE THAT COLLECTS ON THE CORNER. THIS IS VERY COMMON IN RAINY SOUTH FLORIDA. WHEN I'M IN THE TURN & THE BATTERY CUTS OT & THE STEERING LOCKS UP, I HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO DRIVE STRAIGHT & PRAY THAT ANOTHER CAR IS NOT RIGHT NEXT TO ME, THAT I'LL END UP SLAMMING INTO. SEVERAL MECHANICS HAVE EXPLIANED TO ME THAT, APPARENTLY, A BATTERY CABLE IS MOUNTED TOO LOW ON THE CAR. PLEASE ADVISE.