2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5 Complaint Log

Recently - my car has been encountering an issue and it has been slowly getting worse and worse. I have a 40 amp Level 2 charger I frequently use to charge my car. I first noticed it a few weeks ago, where my car seemingly stopped charging for no reason. I brushed it off, then unplugged it + plugged it back in and the rest of the session went fine. Lately, as temps have been rising I noticed the car failing charging sessions one, or two times per day. After doing some research, it turns out i’m far from the only one having this issue. Many other others have been experiencing the same issue as I, and the same degradation. Some people who were initially able to charge their car at 11kw, are now only to charge around 5kw, otherwise the cars onboard AC charger gets too hot and ends the charging session. I have started to see my car degrade as well, as I have had to lower my charge rate to 32a. I have tested out Level 2 AC charging on other chargers as well to rule out my charger being the problem, and it happens on them too unfortunately. To combat this AC charger overheating issue, Hyundai has released a TSB number 23-EV-003H. Unfortunately, the only thing this TSB does is kneecap the cars ability to level 2 charge at a decent rate. After the TSB is applied, once the car detects an overheating onboard AC charger, it will throttle the AC charge rate all the way down to around 5kw. This is unacceptable, when owners of the Ioniq 5 and 6 were promised a vehicle that is able to do 11kw AC charging, or as claimed on Hyundais website, a Level 2 charge from 10-100 in 6 hours and 43 minutes. With my car throttled to 32 amps, it doesn’t charge nearly as fast adding hours onto the total time required to charge. This is an issue for me because I do not have a place to come home to every single night to charge my car, i’m only able to stop by the charger momentarily which means securing as much energy as fast as possible through Level 2 charging is very important to me.

I was driving on the highway passing an 18 wheeler when suddenly the car decelerated and stop quick and was unresponsive and screen showed electric system malfunctioning. Could not moved from left lane on the highway. Thanks God that the person behind me at the moment was a police officer who helped me stop the traffic so we could move the the car to the service road. Car is on the shop and they are trying to figure out what is going on

Charging port becomes exceedingly hot and vehicle stops charging. The charging end of my cable is extremely hot to the touch.

Made an attempt to start the vehicle and noticed two messages on the dash as follows 1. "12V battery Voltage Battery Low" 2. "Stop Vehicle and Check Power Supply" Attempted to put the vehicle in drive. The vehicle would not engage in drive mode. Shut the vehicle off and made a second attempt to restart the vehicle. This time the vehicle did not start. Had the vehicle towed to a local Hyundai dealer. Hyundai dealer took 2 weeks to diagnose the problem. Was advised by the dealer that the ICCU module needed to be replaced along with fuses, and coolant. Also noticed vehicle having slow acceleration at times after charging. Also notice a weird noise on right rear passenger side of the vehicle sounding like fluid pumping at times. Vehicle has been at the dealer for 27 days and still not repaired

I charge my vehicle using a home 48 amp charger. After about 10 months of ownership. I began to receive “charging unsuccessful”notifications after about ten of charging at the Maximum charging speed. I reduced the charging rate to Reduced and was able to charge continuously to 90% a couple times at that rate. However, I began to receive “charging unsuccessful” notifications at this rate as well and had to lower the charging rate to Minimum in order to charge continuously. I can not charge the vehicle at 48 amps and the vehicle can only charge at 5.7 kwh, rather than the expected 11.5 kwh. The vehicle has been repaired four times. I cannot take the car on long trips, or for intensive use, where I would need to quickly charge to car in order to continue using it. As this issue appears to be progressive, when will the car fail to charge at even the Minimum rate? When I am on the road at a remote charging station? When I have an emergency and need to use it?

Another ICCU / fuse failure......At 17,000 miles, I heard a popping sound and the Check Electrical System" warning came up on the dash. I pulled over and checked the menus on screen but could not find any way to check my electrical system. I pulled back on the road and within a mile the dash displayed a message to "Stop Vehicle.....speed was reduced to about 20 mph and I limped a few hundred yards to my office. Called 4 dealers and each told me they were aware of the issue but already had a number of Ioniq 5's in their service lot but estimated anywhere from 4-8 weeks to "look at it". I found 1 dealer nearby willing to take the car and look at it within a week. Praying Hyundai recognizes this problem and issues a recall soon.

I was driving and the car suddenly slowed down unable to accelerate much and showed a messaged saying 'Check Electrical Vehicle System‘. The service center says it is an ICCU problem. I have been waiting several weeks the part is still on backorder without any ETA.

When charging at home on level 2 charger at 40 amps, after 20-30 minutes of charging the charge drops from 9.71kw to 5.51kW. Previously charging at 40 amps the car would just stop charging completely, but after software update the car charge drops dramatically after 20-30 minutes. Research supports similar charging issues with 40-48 amp home chargers. The charge port seems to get overheated and automatically reduces charge speed. The technical service bulletin/software update has not fixed the charging issue.

Car doesn't charge at stated capacity. Charging consistently fails after a short time adding only a few miles to range. Reduced charging rate still produces failure. Well documented problem across many owners and manufacturer fails to address this major problem with a recall

Level 2 charging fails on warm days if charging above 9kw. I am unable to charge my car on days above 80-90 degrees using my 9.6kw (40 amp) Level 2 charger, as the cars internal will get so hot to the point where it overheats, and force stops charging. Occasionally, I will come back to my car while charging and find it's charging at a much lower speed then it should be. Hyundai claims to have a TSB to fix this issue, but it only neuters the cars charging ability, it doesn't actually fix the ability of the car to charge at 40 or 48 amps on a warm way.

Charging port overheats when charging at rated amperage on a level 2 charger, causing charging to stop repeatedly. Car does not charge consistently over 32 amps, but it’s advertised as charging at 48amps.

ICCU charging system faulty. 12v battery was not charged sufficiently. Car not operational. Part on back order and can take months to repair.

I received a 'check electric vehicle system' notice on my car.I believe this is related to the 12V/ICCU issue occurring in the I5's.

Car displayed a message "12V battery voltage low. Stop safely" and the 12V baatery does not charge in the vehicle. This is a known issue with this car and is currently being investigated for a vehicle recall.

I turned on the car and immediately got a "check electric vehicle system" error, and then shortly after a "stop vehicle and check power supply" error. I located a nearby dealership to diagnose and repair the vehicle, and called a tow truck to take it there. My car is parked in a garage in an alley. After the tow truck arrives in the alley, I turn on the car and get the same errors, and pull into the alley. As I'm pulling into the alley, the car start behaving very eratically, not responding well to the accelerator or steering wheel, and then within a couple minutes the display goes blank, completely black, with some white glitchy pixels periodically. Thankfully, I had already put the car into neutral at this point so the car could be pulled onto the flatbed tow truck. Once the displays stopped working, the car was completely unresponsive. I was unable to lock or unlock doors by using physical buttons on doors or remote buttons on my key. The power trunk lift gate would not open. In the world of cell-phones, they would say my car was "bricked." Completely unresponsive to any input, and the display still black with occasional white glitching flashing across display. The dealership's diagnostics was that there was a malfunction in the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU). They replaced the ICCU and the 12 volt battery and I received the car back from the dealership. Everything seems fully operational again.

Level 2 garage charging of car overheats and switches off mid-charge, even with the kWh from the wall charger throttled to Hyundai's minimum setting (60%). What was a minor/occasional problem is now a constant problem in hotter summer temperature, and there is no way to charge the car fully.

The Hyundai dealer service department has diagnosed my car as having an issue with the ICCU and 12-volt batter. It is now in the shop indefinitely as they don't know when it will be repaired. I had an electrical warning light that didn't go away when I started driving. Less than two miles from my home, the MPH dropped to 20. I managed to drive it home where it failed in my driveway. AAA tried to charge the battery/jump it, to no avail. I had them tow it to the nearest Hyundai Ioniq 5 dealer. I owned the car one year plus one day when this occurred.

Ioniq 5 continuously fails to complete charging when on level-2 EVSE. Charging port and plug feel extremely warm to the touch, even in cool ambient weather. Multiple UL-listed charge cables yield similar results, while working perfectly well with other EVs.

Driving the car about at 45mph then I heard a pop sound from the rear of the car. Car displayed warning "Check Electrical Vehicle System." I pull over, shut it off, then restarted it. The "check Electrical Vehicle System" light stills on then an emergency message displayed 'Stop Vehicle and Check Power Supply.' When I tried to drive to a safe place I noticed the car would not drive faster than 25mph. If this would have happened in a highway this could have been a safety issue. Dealership confirmed that the Integrated Charge Circuit Unit (ICCU) needs to be replaced.

This is an electric vehicle that features “iPedal” driving, what Hyundai refers to as one-pedal driving. The main safety issue is that when you decelerate using one pedal, which is a fairly aggressive deceleration, the brake lights do not come on unless you lift your foot entirely from the accelerator or apply the brake pedal (which one would rarely do in iPedal mode). Hyundai needs to rethink their concept of operations for how their brake lights should operate. People are at risk of getting rear-ended. I didn’t realize this was how the vehicle operated until I was almost rear-ended today. Please push them to fix this issue.

I received a warning on my dashboard while driving "Check electric vehicle system". A few minutes later I received the message "Stop vehicle and check power supply". My car would not go faster than 20 MPH, and I had it towed to the dealership. They said it was an ICCU issue and the part was on nationwide backorder. My car has been at the dealership for 41 days.

On Monday Jun 19 2023 around 7pm PT while I was parallel parking, I heard a pop from the engine area and immediately saw the center console show a warning message (one beep, then no further beeps): “Check electric vehicle system” I finished parking and left the car running while I starting to investigate online what this error meant. After ~2 minutes parked I got an active alarm (beep beep beep beep) that said “Stop Vehicle and Check Power”. I turned off the car. The battery was at 22% at this time, with about 44 miles of range. BlueLink Vehicle Diagnostic accessed from the in-car infotainment system said no issues found. The MyHundai App Diagnostic Report on my Android phone said All Systems Normal. On advice from a Hyundai dealer that I could drive 2 miles home, so I did. When the car started I saw the warning “Check electric vehicle system” and made it about 5 minutes before I got the active alarm “Stop vehicle and check power” I turned off the car and turned it back on and finished the 5 minute drive home. Thursday of the same week, the Android app continued to say All Systems Normal and on the same day I paid to have the car towed to a Hyundai dealer. Today, July 10th, I finally got a call back from the Hyundai dealer that the ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit) was in need of repair and that they have no ETA for when the part will come available. I do appreciate that they offered me a loaner car during the wait, however long that will be. I saw on the NHTSA website that there was an active investigation into a similar issue, and wanted to share my story.

- EV Fuse blown My Hyundai Ioniq5 EV electrical system stopped function on March 25th, 9 month after we purchased this EV, on a busy highway. It took Hyundai dealer 8 weeks to fix this issue. Due to the fix report, some fuse was blown. - Automatic Emergency Braking engaged On Jun 16th, when driving on HW 90 west bound, road was clean. No vehicle in front of me. The "Automatic Emergency Braking " was engaged. This could be very dangerous if the highway was busy.

Charging randomly stops before completion

Was driving the vehicle in a local road and felt sudden drop in vehicle speed. Had to press hard the acceleration pedal to avoid any collision from behind. The vehicle could not gain enough speed in a ~45~60mile speed zone and driven ~2miles slowly to work place. The vehicle had to be towed to a local delearship as they suggested. The warning message was 'Stop vehicle and check Power supply' immediately after and changed to 'Check EV System' when started ~1hr later at the time of towing. The local dealership diagnosed it to be needing a new ICCU board, integrated charge control unit, which is in back order for ~2weeks (vehicle is still at dealership). In hindsight (after hearing recent news on ICCU failure of Ioniq5), the vehicle had a related issue in Feb 2023. At that time, the vehicle electrical system got blacked-out in my garage (it didn't respond to any button pressing with completely dark dashboard screen). It was towed to a local dealership since jump jump start could not fix it. They replaced a 12V battery for which local dealership could not give me convencing reason for the dead 12V battery .

The car showed 67% battery life. But it would not charge any further. When we plugged it in, the voice would say "Charging Unsuccessful". The dash had the 'check electric vehicle' system error and when we tried to drive it, we got the red 'stop vehicle' error and alarm. We parked the car, called the dealership who made an appointment to have it diagnosed and told us not to drive it in the meantime. When it was time to take the car into the dealership, I turned it on and got 'turtle mode' and couldn't accelerate past 5mph and had trouble controlling the steering. I got about 100 ft past my driveway and the car completed powered down. It had to be towed to the dealership. When this car powers down, you can't do anything, you can't roll down the windows or unlock the doors or get the car in neutral. The tow truck driver had to use a portable battery and jumper cables just to power the car on so he could get it in neutral which releases the parking park so he could pull it on the flatbed. The dealership said our integrated charging control unit (ICCU) needs replaced; the part is on back order with no ETA. So, they have our car, and we're driving a rental and paying for gas again.

Failed EV drive system. Error messages of electrical problems and shortly went complete dead. 12 volt battery was dead and won't charge. Car was towed to Ideal Hyundai in Fredrick MD. Dealer reported failed ICCU and parts for repair are on back order. Fortunately the failure occurred when pulling away from parking. If I had been at highway speed it could have been disastrous.

Hyundai's connected car service (bluelink) suffered an outage that resulted in driver profiles on many Hyundai vehicles being deleted/reset. No notice was provided and the profiles were not recovered. As a result, the vehicles did not funtion as expected. Driver assist settings were set to default (steering, braking, and acceleration functions included). Hyundai provided instructions on how to set up a new profile in response rather than restoring the customer data to their personally owned hardware (car).

THE car dash board flashed a message: STOP IMMEDIATELY. CHECK THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I drove 1 mile home, called the dealer, was told to have the car towed to dealer. When the tow truck arrived the car battery was totally dead. The dealer said it was an ICCU problem, and that they had seen it before. Could take weeks, or months, to get a new part!

While driving, on a busy street in Holyoke MA, a STOP waning appeared on the drivers display indicating an electrical/power problem. I pulled over to side of road and called a tow truck. Car was taken to dealer where they ran diagnostics on the vehicle. Diagnostics showed failed ICCU and bad cell in 12v battery. Replaced ICCU and high voltage fuse.

Hyundai issued TSB 22-01-094H for my vehicle which is an update to the battery management system,, but after 4 attempts Hyundai dealerships have still not been able to complete the TSB. Hyundai corporate has also not helped after multiple cases. After many hours of research, I have determined that my vehicle's BMS software was updated to an intermittent version (version 700x) that does not support this TSB via automatic update, and the correct BMS Rom (version 540x) must be selected manually, which the dealerships are unwilling or unable to do.

The problem is in "1-pedal" mode (which Hyundai calls "i-pedal"). This is an extremely convenient mode of driving in normal operation, yielding very smooth, passenger-friendly (acceleration and) deceleration by avoiding use of the brake pedals altogether. The problem is that the 2022 Ioniq 5 will *never* activate the brake lights ("stop lamps") when decelerating in i-pedal mode, as long as I apply any pressure at all on the accelerator pedal. This gives drivers behind me no notice that I am slowing down until I'm almost completely stopped. This seems to meet current DOT standards, but ONLY because I'm not using the brakes to decelerate. If I slow down at a similar rate using brakes, the brakes lights do turn on. I recently submitted a similar complaint to Hyundai: Consumer Affairs Case#: 21492175. For a more thorough explanation & demonstration, see this video from the Technology Connections channel on YouTube — he has exactly the same model as me (and I independently verified the behavior on my car with a driver following me): https://youtu.be/U0YW7x9U5TQ My complaint is to the DOT as much as to Hyundai: safety will be improved if the illumination of brake lights ("stop lamps") is required no matter what mechanism the driver is using to slow down, for all manufacturers and models (though this will likely only apply to Electric Vehicles or hybrids). I hope this can be made retroactive, which shouldn't be a great burden as I expect this could be implemented with a software upgrade. I believe the EU has such a regulation for cars sold in Europe.

Started vehicle and heard a loud pop with immediate amber warning to check electrical system with 12 volt battery and EV electrical system warning lights illuminated. While driving to dealerships, vehicle slowed abruptly at Highway speed and warning message said to stop vehicle immediately. Towed to dealership with probable bad integrated charging control unit and high voltage fuse blown. Seems to be an issue with many ioniq 5s. Recall this vehicle!

My car is unable to charge at the advertised 48A charge limit due to overheating of the charge port. Once I start charging, within 30 minutes to 2 hours the car will stop charging abruptly. It appears this is due to the AC Inlet port sensor reading 212F degrees when the issue occurs. The car is advertised as having 48A charging and if it’s not capable of this, Hyundai needs to resolve it.

Vehicle will not charge at advertised speeds. Vehicle notifies me via phone app notification that “vehicle is not charging. Please try again. Ensure the vehicle infusions is off and gear shift is in park.” The car only charges if manually adjusted in settings to charge at minimum charging speed. The car used to charge at adversities speed and no longer does ever.

The vehicle does not illuminate the brake lights when slowing down in ipedal and level 3 regen modes without actually pressing down the brake pedal.

Rear brake lights do not properly come on in certain driving modes (i-pedal). The lights will only turn on if you completely release the accelerator pedal. The problem is, that you can significantly reduce your speed down to a stop without ever fully releasing the accelerator all the way.

Brake lights during I-Pedal or 1 Pedal driving modes. When under "I-Pedal" or 1 pedal driving mode brake lights do not engage unless foot is fully off the accelerator pedal. This is concerning as the vehicle can brake rather agressively with no indicition to the drivers behind you. The brake lights should illuminate when a sufficient amount of braking is occuring, not just when the accelerator is fully disengaged.

The IONIQ 5, like other electric vehicles, uses regenerative breaking. Regenerative breaking can be set at level 1, 2, 3, or i-pedal mode. This determines the strength in which the car will engage regenerative breaking automatically when the position of the accelerator petal is raised above the current speed. i-pedal mode is full one-pedal driving, allowing the driver to slow to a stop without use of the break pedal at all. At level 2, 3, or i-pedal, the car is capable of decelerating at a significant rate even when the driver is still pressing down on the pedal. For example, if you consider it as a percentage and take "foot off the pedal" as 0%, and "pedal pressed as far as it can go" as 100%, a driver could be traveling at 70 mph on the highway, with the pedal pressed at around 60%. The driver could then lift the pedal to only 30%, and the regenerative breaking would then slow the car to, say, 30 mph. This deceleration can be very strong when set to a high regen level. However, the break lights do not illuminate unless the driver takes their foot completely off of the accelerator. In i-pedal mode especially, it is possible to decelerate from highway speed to a near stop in only a matter of seconds, without the break lights ever activating. Other EV manufacturers illuminate the break lights based on the cars measured deceleration when using regenerative breaking, and do not have this issue. If the driver has driven other EVs in the past and prefers the one pedal driving mode, it is likely they will not even know that their break lights are not illuminating during heavy deceleration, creating a significant danger of being rear ended when driving in heavy traffic.

The brake lights do not come on when slowing down in i-Pedal mode unless you completely let go of the accelerator, representing a massive safety concern. The drivers behind you do not know you are slowing down even though your deceleration is quite sharp

This vehicle can use regenerative braking to slow fully to a stop. However, using regen to slow sharply does not activate the brake lights unless the accelerator pedal is fully released. This means that you can slow at a significant rate without alerting vehicles behind you that you are slowing. Vehicle should activate brake lights when slowing beyond a specific rate. This has been the case since vehicle delivery (3/28/22) and continues today. Occurs at all speeds.

On 24 May 2023, I heard a "pop" sound when starting my Ioniq5 and immediately received warnings directing me to stop the vehicle and check the battery system. The car was taken to the dealer on the same day and is still out of service. The dealer notified me that the problem is due to an "ICCU" issue and that parts are backordered and they do not have an estimated date for the receipt of parts or repair.

My partner was driving my car on Tuesday, May 23, 2023 and received a "Check Electrical Vehicle System" warning. Within 30 minutes of receiving that warning, the maximum speed on the car was throttled to 20 mph and shortly after that, the car stopped working entirely. Thankfully, my partner was on a residential street when all this occurred and was able to move to safety; however, had any of this happened in a highway driving scenario, the results could have been catastrophic. My car was towed to a dealership that same evening and it has been with the service department since then. The two parts on backorder they are waiting on on the ICCU Assembly and a High Voltage Fuse. Upon searching for other Hyundai IONIQ 5 owners with similar issues, various internet forums are filled with reports of similar things happening. At this point, I have been told this part is on backorder for potentially up to 6-9 months and after repeated calls with the dealership and the corporate office, Hyundai has not acknowledged the extent of this issue, the potential safety concerns, nor offered any relief for being without my, basically brand new, car for the remainder of this year.

This vehicle's brake lights do not come on when using regenerative braking. The regenerative braking can bring this car to a complete stop fairly quickly and the brake lights should come on. Several near misses of people almost rear-ending me, and a few got mad enough that I feared a road rage incident. This after only owning the car for 2 weeks.

Accelerator failed to engage on two occasions. 5/18/2023: First while driving on highway at 70MPH. Car slowed down gradually and I pulled onto shoulder. 5/19/2023: Again the next day driving 35 MPH. Pulled off road onto private driveway. On both occasions I turned car off and back on and it resumed normally. Fortunately no accident or traffic problem. I brought car to the dealer (Country Hyundai Northampton) to be checked and they could not find a problem.

I was driving about 30 mph on a secondary road when the vehicle suddenly lost power and speed and a large batter warning light came on on the dash. I restarted the vehicle, and the same thing happened again. We had the car taken to Peder Hyndai in Poway, CA. 858-486-6560. They said that there was a fault with the "battery control module", and that they would have to order parts. They said they had "at least two" other ionic 5s with the same problem. We've been driving a loaner for 1 mo, and still the part hasn't arrived. This was the third trip that day, and there were no problems with the earlier trips. This had never happened before. The car did not make any unusual sound that sticks in my mind during the episode.

Likely ICCU failure incapacitated vehicle while in motion on highway. Vehicle decelerated uncontrollably and would not re-accelerate. Shortly thereafter 12v battery warning appeared and vehicle was no longer operable. Series of warning lights. “check electric vehicle system” upon car starting, “Stop vehicle and check power supply” shortly after starting drive, "12v battery very low" immediately before vehicle went completely dead.

Electrical system not working. The vehicle does not charge. The 12Volt battery is completely dead and vehicle does not start. Before the vehicle gone offline - it was reporting Electrical System is not charging and dead immediately. I towed the vehicle to Route 1 South, South Brunswick, NJ Hyundai Dealership on May 19th, and still in repairs. The main battery pack was showing 90% charge. The vehicle reported problem in the middle of the driving and completely slowed down to below 25Miles before and came to grinding halt. Jumpstarting the vehicle did not help.

The power gave out on the car and Hyundai refuses to fix it. They said a part needs to ship over and they give very little updates.

On may 12 I was driving on Lake Mead hwy when I heard a pop and lost power I pulled over and checked the car and couldn't find any visible issues I was very close to home, The car went into turtle mode and was able to make it home just before everything shut down. The Hyundai dealer said its the ICCU unit and fuse. No accident or injuries. Lucky I wasn't traveling to CA. which I often do.