2003 Mazda Mazda6 Complaint Log

ON 17 FEB 2011 I WAS DRIVING MY 2003 MAZDA 6S AND WHILE DRIVING AT A LOW SPEED OF 25 MPH ALL MY LIGHTS ON MY DASHBOARD TURNED ON AND MY CAR IMMEDIATELY BEGAN TO REDUCE SPEED ALMOST TO A STAND STILL. LUCKILY I WAS ABLE TO PULL TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IN TIME TO AVOID ANY ACCIDENTS OR POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO MY VEHICLE. I RESTARTED MY CAR AND WAS ABLE TO PROCEED IN DRIVING. HOWEVER MY ENGINE LIGHT REMAINED ON. I RESEARCHED THIS ISSUE ONLINE AND FOUND THAT SOMEONE WITH THE SAME MODEL VEHICLE AND YEAR HAD THE SAME ISSUE ALMOST VERBATIM. THE REFERENCED A SERVICE BULLETIN FROM MAZDA BULLETIN NO: 01-016/06 RELEASED IN 2006 REGARDING THROTTLE BODY REPLACEMENT. I READ THE BULLETIN AND SURE ENOUGH IT STATED TO INSPECT THE LETTERS ON THE THROTTLE BODY. IT SHOWED AA,AB,BA MARKINGS = NO GOOD AND BB MARKING = GOOD. SO I INSPECTED MY VEHICLES THROTTLE BODY LETTER AND SURE ENOUGH IT WAS "AA". I WILL HAVE TO DEFINITELY REPLACE IT, AND OF COURSE I HAVE NO CHOICE BECAUSE YOU CAN IMAGINE THE RAMIFICATIONS OF DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY OR FREEWAY AND SOMETHING LIKE THIS WERE TO OCCUR. ACCIDENTS, OR EVEN DEATH. IT IS PRETTY UPSETTING THAT SOMETHING HAS NOT BEEN DONE TO CORRECT THESE ISSUES ESPECIALLY WITH THE POTENTIAL CONSEQUENCES OF THIS DEFECT! *TR

CAR ENGINE STOPPING WHILE RUNNING AND A NO START. SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT WARNINGS OVER A LONG TIME. ONE REPAIR BY MAZDA ON THE GAS CAP REPAIR, BUT I HAVE ALSO UNCOVERED A RECALL ON LEAKING SEALS AT THE TANK ON 2003 MODELS, 03V-531. SERVICE LIGHT AGAIN CAME ON FROM 10/18/10 -10/30/10. WHILE OUT OF TOWN THE CAR SAT AIRPORT PARKING ON MY RETURN IT STOPPED WITHOUT WARNING AT A LIGHT 11/22/10, BUT ALL LIGHTS AND RADIO STATIONS WERE ACTIVE, SO NO BATTERY PROBLEM. AFTER ADJUSTING THE FILLER GAS CAP SEVERAL TIMES I FOUND IT WASN'T CLOSING AND COULD BE PULLED RIGHT OFF. WE HAVE MADE SURE THE CAP IS ON TIGHTLY EACH TIME AND SINCE CANCELLED THE DEALER APPOINTMENT FOR A $100 INSPECTION, NO LIGHT SINCE. 2/9/11 AFTER DRIVING 35 MILES THE CAR WOULD NOT RESTART, AAA CAME OUT AND NO BATTERY TROUBLE, BUT A 30 MILE TOWING WAS REQUIRED TO MY HOME. THE VEHICLE SITS IN A GARAGE AVG TEMP OF 35-45F. THE NEXT MORNING AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS AND USING BOTH KEYS IT RESTARTED AND WE TOOK IT INTO A DEALER. @2 DAYS LATER THEY FIND A "SERVICE BULLETIN" 901-009/07) FROM 2007. POSSIBLE @ -30C (ZEROF) THE NO START OR CRANK DUE TO MOISTURE WITHIN THE MAIN RELAY AND/OR FUEL PUMP RELAY. THAT NIGHT 25-30F IN NOV NO WAY CLOSE. ON 02/12/11 WHILE DRIVING ON IS77 THE CAR QUITE RUNNING AGAIN, 911 CALLED AS I MADE IT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD UNDER HEAVY FAST MOVING TRAFFIC. THIS WEEK ON 2/22 WHILE IN THE GARAGE HESITANT TO TURN OVER AGAIN BUT DID START ON THE 3RD TRY, VEHICLE TEMP READING WAS 47F. SO NOW FOR 2 NEW PARTS FOR 2003-2005 MODELS AND $450+ REPAIRS CAN BE MADE. THE PARTS ARE IN AND PER THE BULLETIN LOOKS MORE LIKE A BY-PASS OPTION THAN REPLACING A DEFECTIVE OEM PART. CUTTING OUT WHILE DRIVING IS VERY SERIOUS, AS MUCH SO AS ACCELERATION ON A TOYOTA. SINCE MY COMPANY IS TIED TO THE TIRE/WHEEL & AUTO MFG AND WE CONDUCT 1/2 DOT TIRE TEST FOR THE USA, I'M PRETTY SURE I KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT ON DEFECTS. *TR

2003 MAZDA 6 WITH REGULAR MAINTENANCE AND APPROXIMATELY 60K MILES. HAVING INCIDENTS OF STALLING AND IDLING HARD. PER ONE MECHANIC IT IS A PVC AND LINES. A SECOND MECHANIC SHOWED US A CRACK IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. THESE PARTS ARE CHEAP SINCE THEY ARE PLASTIC. BUT THE QUOTED INSTALLATION IS OVER $700 FOR JUST THE PVC. *TR

AFTER BEING RUN OFF THE HIGHWAY BY A SUV THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY DURING A HEAD ON COLLISION INTO THE WOODS GOING 65MPH DOWN A 50FT EMBANKMENT. WHOLE FRONT END OF THE CAR, AND THE DRIVE SIDE OF THE CAR WAS DESTROYED, CAUSING THE ENGINE TO COME UP RESULTING IN THE STEERING WHEEL AND CONSOLE TO COME UP. *TR

ON SEVERAL MODELS OF MAZDA 6'S MAZDA HAS ISSUED A TSB FOR THE PROBLEM WHICH IS A DEFECTIVE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. I HAVE READ THOUSANDS OF COMPLAINTS BY CONSUMERS. MAZDA HAS MADE A NEW PART YET NOT RECALLED THE OLD PART. WHEN THIS PART FAILS YOU LOSE ALL ACCELERATION POWER TO THE VEHICLE. THE WAY TO RESET THIS IS TO TURN OFF THE MOTOR AND TURN IT RIGHT BACK ON. I WAS DRIVING ON A TWO-LANE HIGHWAY CROSSED OVER THE BROKEN DOUBLE YELLOW LINE TO PASS ANOTHER VEHICLE WHEN THIS DEFECTIVE PART FAILED AND I LOST ALL ACCELERATION. THANKFULLY, I HAD JUST ENOUGH TIME TO BE ABLE TO ALLOW THE SAME CAR I WAS PASSING TO PASS ME AND I PULLED OFF THE ROADWAY. THE CAR WORKED FINE FOR THE REST OF THAT TRIP IT OCCURRED AGAIN ON THE FREEWAY IN THE FAST LANE. I CONTACTED MAZDA CORPORATE CUSTOMER CARE THEY ADVISED ME THAT THEY WERE AWARE OF THE ISSUE BUT HAD NOT ISSUED A RECALL AT THIS TIME.

TRAVELING AT FREEWAY SPEEDS IN CA ON THE SAN FRANCISCO BAY BRIDGE DURING EVENING TRAFFIC, MY 2003 MAZDA6 SUDDENLY WENT INTO "SAFE OR LIMP" MODE. THIS CAUSED ABRUPT LOSS OF POWER WITH NO ABILITY TO ACCELERATE, WHICH ALMOST CAUSED A MULTI VEHICLE ACCIDENT. WHEN TAKEN TO A MECHANIC, THE ROOT CAUSE WAS A CODE DTC P2135 FOR A DEFECTIVE THROTTLE BODY. MAZDA ADMITS 3 (THREE) VERSIONS OF THEIR THROTTLE BODY FOR THAT VEHICLE DEFECTIVE WITH AUTOMATIC DISCARD IF THERE IS A MIL WITH DTC P2135(PER TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NO. 01-016/06 ISSUED 05/18/2006 BY MAZDA NORTH AMERICAN OPERATIONS), AND THROTTLE BODY MARKINGS "AA","AB","BA". MINE IS AN "AA". OBVIOUSLY MAZDA ADMITS THAT THESE ARE DEFECTIVE, BUT ONLY REPLACED THEM UNDER WARRANTY AND MY VEHICLE IS NOT UNDER WARRANTY ANY LONGER. THEY CALL THE NEW PART AN "UPGRADED VERSION". MY VEHICLE HAS DONE THIS (SAFE MODE) SEVERAL TIMES, SO NOW IT IS PARKED UNTIL I CAN GET IT FIXED (QUOTED PRICE FOR REPAIR IS $714 FROM MAZDA DEALER). THESE INCIDENTS CREATES AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SITUATION AND I FEEL VERY LUCKY THAT I WAS NOT INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT WHEN THIS HAPPENED TO ME, AND LUCKILY NO ONE WAS INJURED, IT COULD HAVE BEEN A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION. I FEEL MAZDA HAS MADE A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ADMITTING THAT THIS PART IS DEFECTIVE AND IT CAN CAUSE DANGER AND POSSIBLY LOSS OF LIFE. MAZDA NEEDS TO BE FORCED TO MAKE A RECALL AND REPLACE THESE PARTS AT NO COST TO THE CONSUMER. DEFECTIVE PART - THROTTLE BODY WITH MARKINGS "AA", "AB", "BA" MINE IS "AA"

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE FOR AN OIL CHANGE WHEN THE MECHANIC INFORMED HIM THAT THE BRAKE LINES WERE BENDING AND PUSHING INTO THE AXLE BOOTS. THE MECHANIC REPLACED THE AXLE AND BRAKE LINES AT THE CONTACTS EXPENSE. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED BUT NO ASSISTANCE WAS PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE IS 51,000. UPDATED 10/05/10 *BF UPDATED 10/07/10

CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY CRACKS CAUSING IT TO BE DIFFICULT TO SHIFT GEARS, CLUTCH WILL STICK AND NOT SPRING BACK. EVENTUALLY THE CAR IS UNUSABLE DUE TO THE CLUTCH. I DID RESEARCH TO SEE THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ON THIS PROBLEM CONCERNING MAZDA3, MAZDA6 AND THE RX8. I HAD TO BUY A NEW CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY BUT SEEMS THE PROBLEM IS HAPPENING AGAIN. MAZDA NEEDS TO MAKE A STRONGER BRACKET TO REINFORCE THE PEDAL ASSEMBLY. *TR

WENT TO STORE PUSHED IN CLUTCH WENT TO THE FLOOR PARKED THE CAR AND WHEN I CAME OUT I COULD NOT START THE CAR. THE SAFETY THING WOULD NOT ENGAGE TO ALLOW ME . HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A MECHANIC HE TOLD ME IT WAS THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY, THE CAR HAS BEEN BACK THREE TIMES IN TWO YEARS BECAUSE IT'S TOUGH TO SHIFT CLUTCH REAL SPONGY. TODAY IT WENT TO THE FLOOR AGAIN AND STALLED, CAN'T START THE CAR IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION HAD TO HAVE IT PUSHED OUT OF THE WAY THEN TOWED HOME. THE MOTOR WAS REPLACED AT 32K. THE FIRST TIME THE WHOLE CLUTCH WAS REPLACED AT 40K AND IT,S NEVER BEEN RIGHT SINCE. *TR

THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING, NOT WANTING TO SHIFT INTO 2ND GEAR AND THEN WHEN IT DOES SHIFT IT JERKS THE CAR REALLY HARD. THIS USED TO OCCUR VERY SELDOM BUT SINCE THE CAR NOW HAS 98,000 MILES ON IT, THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING ALMOST ALL THE TIME. I HAVE HEARD THAT THE CAR NEEDS TO BE REFLASHED, BUT I HAVE ALSO READ THAT THIS DOES NOT HELP. MANY PEOPLE WITH THE SAME CAR HAVE THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM. ALSO THIS TRANSMISSION IS NOT ABLE TO BE REBUILT. THE TRANSMISSION NEEDS TO BE RECALLED. *TR

OVER A PERIOD OF 1-1/2 HOURS, OUR 2003 MAZDA 6 QUICKLY LOST ALL ACCELERATION POWER ON 5 DIFFERENT OCCASIONS WHILE DRIVING OUT OF TOWN ON THE HIGHWAY. FOLLOWING A 'SLIGHT BUMP' THE CAR WENT FROM 70 MPH TO 35 MPH TO 10 MPH, QUICKLY, REGARDLESS OF PRESSURE APPLIED TO THE ACCELERATOR. GETTING TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IN TRAFFIC GOING 70MPH+ WAS IN ITSELF A CHALLENGE AND AFTER PULLING TO A COMPLETE STOP THE CAR BEGAN JERKING FIERCELY. ONLY TURNING OFF THE ENGINE COMPLETELY WAS THE SYSTEM 'RESET'. THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP HOOKED IT UP AND DETERMINED THE THROTTLE BODY MUST BE REPLACED FOR A QUOTED COST OF $534.41 (MACON, GA). THE SENSOR ITSELF, THE LIKELY CULPRIT FOR THIS ISSUE, IS NOT OFFERED OR AVAILABLE FOR SALE BY MAZDA WITHOUT ITS 'BODY', UNLIKE COUNTLESS OTHER MAKES, WHICH IS OUTRAGEOUS, BUT THE MOST DISGUSTING PART OF THIS ISSUE IS THAT ALTHOUGH THERE ARE A CRITICAL NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS LOGGED ABOUT THIS ISSUE, THE TPS HAS NOT BEEN LISTED AS A RECALL. THE DEALERSHIP STATED THEY DID NOT HAVE TO REPLACE IT SINCE THERE WERE ONLY 'SERVICE BULLETINS' LISTED AND NO ACTUAL RECALLS FOR THE PARTS. THEY ARE VERY AWARE OF THE SITUATION. FROM MY OWN EXPERIENCE AND MY DAUGHTER'S WITH THIS ISSUE, I CAN GUARANTEE THAT THIS HAS DEFINITELY CAUSED SERIOUS INJURIES, IF NOT FATALITIES, THAT JUST HAVEN'T BEEN REPORTED OR POSSIBLY IDENTIFIED. I WILL CONTINUE TO HUNT DOWN THE SENSOR AS I WILL NOT FALL PREY TO MAZDA'S 'RACKET'. THE CAR WILL SIT UNTIL I LOCATE THE PART, OR END UP BEING PARTED OUT. *TR

WE HAVE OWNED OUR MAZDA 6 SINCE 2003. THIS YEAR THERE IS SUBSTANTIAL RUST IN BOTH REAR FENDERS. RESEARCHING THIS IT APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM, SUCH A PROBLEM THAT IT WAS A RECALL IN ENGLAND. WE CONTACTED MAZDA TO SEE IF A RECALL WAS AVAILABLE TO AMERICA, BUT ONE WAS NOT. MAZDA IS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AS THEY MODIFIED THEIR DESIGN TO CHANGE THE REAR FENDER ON FUTURE MODELS. WE FEAR THAT THE STRUCTURE HAS DEGRADED GREATLY THAT A SIDE IMPACT WOULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY TO REAR PASSENGERS. *TR

WHILE DRIVING HOME FROM MY CHARDON, OH OFFICE ON EITHER AUG 5 OR 6, 2009 AT 35 MPH MY CAR'S RPM NEEDLE STARTED JUMPING AND THE CAR'S "GAS PRESSURE" FELT LIKE IT WAS HICUPPING. THE RPM NEEDLE JUMPED FROM @2 TO 4 TWICE, THEN THE CAR STARTED STEADILY ACCELERATING IN SPEED. THE BRAKE PEDAL AT THIS TIME FELT "HARD" AND THE CAR WAS "FIGHTING AGAINST MY ATTEMPT TO SLOW DOWN" AND THE RPM'S WERE STILL TRYING TO ACCELERATE. I IMAGINE IF I PUSHED ON THE BRAKE AND THE GAS PEDAL AT THE SAME TIME, IT WOULD SIMULATE THE WAY IT FELT. I ALSO HAVE A MANUAL SHIFT MODE ON MY CAR AND USED IT TO MORE EFFECTIVELY SLOW DOWN (VS USING THE BRAKE) BUT AT THE SAME TIME THE CAR WAS STILL TRYING TO ACCELERATE, BUT COULDN'T BECAUSE I WAS IN A LOWER GEAR/MANUAL MODE. AND I REMEMBER WHILE IN MANUAL GEAR 1, MY CAR WAS LURCHING ME BACK AND FORTH IN MY SEAT AS I DROVE THROUGH MY NEIGHBORHOOD TO GET HOME, AND MY FOOT WAS OFF THE GAS PEDAL! ON AUG 12TH, 2009 I MENTIONED THIS EVENT TO A MITSUBISHI DEALER'S MECHANIC (FRIEND OF MY FATHER) WHO WAS REPLACING MY POWER STEERING LINE, HE TOOK A LOOK AT MY CAR BUT SAID IT SEEMED FINE. MY HUSBAND HAS BEEN DRIVING THAT CAR SINCE THAT EVENT, BECAUSE I AM AFRAID OF IT HAPPENING AGAIN. THE CAR HAS NOT DONE THIS WHILE MY HUSBAND HAS BEEN DRIVING IT. NOT TO SOUND LIKE AN ODDBALL, BUT IF I DIDN'T KNOW BETTER I WOULD HAVE SAID MY CAR WAS ACTING POSSESSED, LIKE THE MOVIE "CHRISTINE". I HAVE TO THINK THAT THERE IS SOME CORRELATION TO WHAT MY CAR DID AND WHAT IS GOING ON WITH TOYOTA. MY HUSBAND IS AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER AND HE USED TO WORK FOR GROB SYSTEMS, WHO DOES ENGINEERING FOR MULTIPLE AUTOMOBILE MANUFACTURERS, AND I WONDER IF MAZDA HAS SOME SAME SYSTEM IN THEIR AUTOMOBILE'S AS TOYOTA AND IF IT WAS ENGINEERED BY THE SAME SUPPLIER. I WOULD SWEAR ON A BIBLE THAT THIS HAPPENED TO ME WITH MY CAR. (MY HUSBAND LEFT GROB TO MOVE TO CLEVELAND AND MARRY ME). IT SUCKS HAVING THIS CAR NOW, IT IS PAID OFF, I'M AFRAID TO DRIVE IT, AND I DON'T WANT TO SELL TO AN INNOCENT STRANGER. *TR

ENGINE SEIZED UP AS IT WAS SITTING IN DRIVEWAY WARMING UP. OIL WAS ALL OVER THE DRIVEWAY UNDER THE CAR AFTER THE SEIZED UP. *TR

MY CAR HAS HAD 4 RECALLS. I PURCHASED THE CAR IN 2006 NOT KNOWING THAT PARTS HAD BEEN RECALLED 3 TIMES. I RECENTLY FIXED A PROBLEM IN MY CAR THAT I FEEL MAKE HAVE HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH RECALL #3 , THE FUEL SENDER UNIT. *TR

SINCE I FIRST PURCHASED MY MAZDA THERE HAS BEEN A FAULTY FAN CONTROL MODULE THAT SHORTS OUT MY COMPUTER. THIS TIME THE VEHICLE FORCED MY INTO AN INTERSECTION WITH MY GRANDCHILDREN IN THE VEHICLE. IT COULD HAVE BEEN A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. I COULD KEEP MY VEHICLE FROM MOVING EVEN WITH THE BRAKE ON. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH, THE CONTACT APPLIED PRESSURE TO THE BRAKE PEDAL SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE VEHICLE SLOWED DOWN. THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED WITHOUT THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL BEING DEPRESSED. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND IT WAS CONCLUDED THAT THE FAILURE WAS RELATED TO A DEFECTIVE THROTTLE; HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE BEGAN OPERATING NORMALLY AFTER THE DIAGNOSIS. THE TECHNICIAN RECOMMENDED THAT THE VEHICLE BE TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 81,000. UPDATED 10/16/08. *LJ

MY COMPLAINT IS WITH THE SERVICE CENTER IN MEDFORD NY MAZDA. THEY HAD MY CAR FOR A TOTAL OF 2 YRS. AND COULD NOT FIX THERE WAS NO ACCIDENT. *TR

2003 MAZDA 6 RECALL 1403L, CAMPAIGN # 03V531000, ON MY VEHICLE SUPPOSEDLY WAS REPAIRED IN BATON ROUGE AT DIAMOND MAZDA IN 2004, BUT CAR IS LEAKING IN THE SAME AREA THAT WAS A PROBLEM TO BEGIN WITH NOW. SO THE WORKMANSHIP WHERE THEY REPAIR THE SEAL IS NOT VERY GOOD. FOUR YEARS LATER I BUY THE CAR AND IT IS POOR GAS ON THE TOP OF MY GAS TANK OUT OF THE SEAL AROUND THE FUEL PUMP WHICH JUST HAPPENS TO BE RIGHT UNDER WHERE MY CHILD SITS. SO I'VE BEEN IN A TIME BOMB JUST WAITING TO GO OFF. NO ONE CAN GIVE ME PROOF OR PAPER WORK OF WHERE THIS RECALL HAS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF. NOW SUPPOSE THAT IT DID BLOW UP AND KILL OR INJURE MYSELF AND MY 3 YEAR OLD DAUGHTER. WOULDN'T MAZDA BE AT FAULT FOR NOT PROPERLY REPAIRING THE VEHICLE? *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IT TAKES AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME TO STOP THE VEHICLE WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED. HE ALSO HEARD A LOUD GRINDING NOISE WHEN ATTEMPTING TO STOP THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A LOCAL REPAIR SHOP AND THEY STATED THAT THE BRAKE SHOES DUG INTO THE ROTORS. AS A RESULT, THE ROTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED AT THE COST OF $289. HE NOTIFIED THE MANUFACTURER IN REFERENCE TO PREMATURE WEAR OF THE ROTORS, BUT WAS NOT PROVIDED WITH ANY ASSISTANCE. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 25,000.

CV JOINT BOOT FAILED AND WORE A HOLE IN THE BRAKE LINE. MOST OF THE ABILITY TO BRAKE THE VEHICLE WAS LOST. THERE DID NOT APPEAR TO BE A SPLIT BRAKE SYSTEM. *TR

MY DAUGHTER WAS INVOLVED IN A SERIOUS ROLLOVER ACCIDENT LAST THURSDAY AND THE CAR'S AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. *TR

THE VEHICLE IS A 2003 MAZDA 6. 2 FRONT, RIGHT CONTROL ARMS ARE BAD. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PAINT WAS BLISTERED ON THE FENDER ON THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE DEALER STATED THAT THEY WERE AWARE OF THE CORROSION ON THE REAR FENDER. THE DEALER REFERRED THE CONTACT TO A BODY SHOP FOR REPAIR; HOWEVER, HE TOOK THE VEHICLE TO HIS BODY SHOP INSTEAD. THE MECHANIC INSPECTED THE FENDER AND PIECES OF IT CAME OFF IN HIS HAND. THE MECHANIC REPAIRED THREE HOLES IN THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE FENDER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 85,000. UPDATED 08/23/08. LJ THE FENDER RUSTED IN 3 PLACES. UPDATED 08/25/08 *JB

I OWN A 2003 MAZDA 6. ABOUT A MONTH AGO I STARTED HEARING LOUD NOISES COMING FROM THE FRONT AXLE AREA WHEN I TURN OR DRIVE OVER BUMPS. MY BRAKES AND TIRES ARE IN GOOD SHAPE. I WAS FIRST TOLD THAT I NEEDED NEW STRUTS. A SECOND INSPECTION HOWEVER REVEALED NO PROBLEM WITH MY STRUTS. MECHANIC SEEMS TO BE BAFFLED AS TO WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. MY CAR IS A V6 MAZDA 6S. 5 SPEED. PROBLEM STARTED AT 82,000 MILES. CURRENT MILEAGE IS ABOUT 84,000. *TR

WE PURCHASED A 2003 MAZDA6 NEW FROM A MAZDA DEALERSHIP. WE HAD SOME ISSUE WITH THE CAR SHUDDERING WHEN ENGAGING THE CLUTCH AND CALLED THE DEALERSHIP. WE WERE TOLD THAT THE ISSUE WAS RELATED TO "VARIABLE VALVE TIMING" AND TOLD TO REV IT A LITTLE HIGHER WHEN ENGAGING THE CLUTCH. AT APPROX 40,000 MILES THE CLUTCH WORE OUT AND WE TRIED TO CONTACT MAZDA AND FILE A CLAIM, BUT WE WERE DENIED. I PAID TO HAVE THE CLUTCH REPAIRED, AND NOW HAVE APPROX. 60,000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE. RECENTLY, THE WHOLE CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY HAS MALFUNCTIONED AND IS CAUSING SIGNIFICANT ISSUES WITH THE ENGAGEMENT OF THE GEARS. SEVERAL TIMES THE CAR HAS NOT GONE INTO GEAR AND MY WIFE GOT STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION THE OTHER DAY AND WAS ALMOST STRUCK BY ANOTHER VEHICLE BECAUSE SHE COULD NOT GET THE CAR IN GEAR. I HAVE AGAIN CONTACTED MAZDA AND HAVE AGAIN BEEN TOLD THAT THEY WILL MOST LIKELY NOT COVER MY ISSUES... *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT HEARD A LOUD NOISE COMING FROM THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE EVERY TIME SHE DRIVES OVER A BUMP OR MAKES A TURN. SHE HAS HAD SEVERAL REPAIR SHOPS INSPECT THE VEHICLE AND ATTEMPT TO REMEDY THE FAILURE. SHE HAS HAD BOTH FRONT AND REAR BRAKES, ROTORS, AND TIRES REPLACED. ONE MECHANIC STATED THAT THE PISTONS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AS WELL. THE SPEED, VIN, AND ENGINE SIZE WERE UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 81,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 87,000.

TIRE TREAD SEPARATION OF COOPER CS4 TOURING 215/50R17 91V HIGH SPEED RADIAL. DOT 3D6A CLT 520/A/A. WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE HIGHWAY AT APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH A SLAPPING SOUND DEVELOPED. SUBSEQUENT STOPS AND CHECKS REVEALED THE TREAD WAS SEPARATING ON THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. LOOSE RUBBER KNOCKED HOLES IN THE OUTER EDGE OF THE INNER FENDER WELL. ALONG THE OUTER EDGE OF THE TIRE I WAS ABLE TO INSERT MY FINGER UP UNDER THE TREAD. THIS CONDITION HAD THE APPEARANCE OF THE TIRE BEING A RE-TREAD INSTEAD OF A NEW TIRE. *TR

I WON A 2003 MAZDA6S AND I AM HAVING ISSUES WITH MY CLUTCH. I FIRST CHANGED THE CLUTCH AT 18,000 MILES AND I HAD TO ARGUE WITH MAZDA ON THAT BECAUSE THE CLUTCH IS ONLY COVERED FOR 1YR/12,000 MILES. NOW AT 35,000 AND CHANGE MILES MY CLUTCH HAS FAILED AGAIN. MAZDA HAS NO RECALLED THIS ISSUE WITH THE CLUTCH AND IN MY OPINION IT SHOULD BE A RECALL. I AM A MEMBER AT HTTP://FORUM.MAZDA6CLUB.COM/), AND THERE YOU CAN DO A SEARCH AND FINE HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE WITH THE SAME CLUTCH ISSUE. THE FAILURE OF A CLUTCH FROM NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR DOES NOT NORMALLY OCCUR SO EARLY IN A CAR'S LIFE (SEE WWW.DRIVETRAIN.COM/CLUTCHARTICLE.HTML). IN ADDITION THE WEAR OF THE CLUTCH UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS SHOULD NOT BE THE CUSTOMER'S FAULT AND MAZDA HAS NOT ACKNOWLEDGED THIS. I WOULD LIKE MAZDA TO UNDERSTAND THAT THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE CLUTCH IN THESE CARS THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME. *TR

REAR WHEEL STUDS. ONE OF MY REAR WHEEL LUG BOLTS IS CRACKED UP IN THE LUG NUT AND ANOTHER ONE BROKE OFF AND IS MISSING.THIS WAS AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN. I CAN'T EVEN GET MY CAR INSPECTED BECAUSE OUR LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE DOES NOT CARRY THIS ITEM. *TR

AFTER 4 PREVIOUS REPAIRS I STARTED MY CAR AND MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ONCE AGAIN BEGAN TO FLASH, THIS TIME FLASHING RAPIDLY. I CALLED THE DEALER WHO TOLD ME NOT TO DRIVE THE CAR BECAUSE THE RAPID FLASH MEANS THE CAR IS UNSAFE. I WAS TOLD I HAD A BAD COIL. AFTER A $400 REPAIR, I PROCEEDED TO DRIVE THE CAR HOME ONLY TO HAVE THE SAME LIGHT FLASH. THE DEALER THEN TOLD ME MY CATALIYTIC CONVERTERS SPLIT. NOW I HAVE A $4,600 REPAIR JOB ON A 2003. PLEASE CHECK TO SEE IF THERE ARE ANY OTHER COMPLAINTS ON THIS VEHICLE. I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR FOR THE PAST YEAR. THANK YOU. *NM

I WAS IN A CAR ACCIDENT AND OUT OF 6 AIR BAGS ALL OF THEM FAILED TO COME OUT. BECAUSE OF THERE FAILURE I RECEIVED VARIOUS INJURIES THAT ARE KEEPING ME FROM WORK. *NM

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED ON ITS OWN AND ON MANY OCCASIONS WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH. THIS OCCURRED EVEN WHILE APPLYING THE BRAKES. ON ONE OCCASION, THE VEHICLE ALMOST HIT A PEDESTRIAN. ON ANOTHER OCCASION, THE VEHICLE RAN THROUGH A RED LIGHT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALERS WHO DETERMINED THE PROBLEM WAS PERTAINING TO THE THROTTLE BODY. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIR HOWEVER THE PROBLEM PERSISTS.

WHEN BRAKES ARE USED THERE IS A LOUD CLICKING NOISE. THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES AND WHEN TAKEN TO THE DEALER WAS TOLD THAT THEY COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND THAT THE BRAKE HARDWARE HAD ALREADY BEEN REPLACED ON THIS VEHICLE BECAUSE OF THE GRINDING PROBLEM WE HAD TAKEN IN FOR ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS PREVIOUSLY. WE HAD ALSO HAD TO TAKE THE CAR IN 4+ TIMES TELLING THEM THAT THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH COLD STARTING, GETTING A "WE CAN NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM"...THE 5TH TIME IT HAD TO BE TOWED BECAUSE THE ALTERNATOR WENT OUT. THIS IS AFTER THEY SOLD US A $120 BATTERY BECAUSE THEY SAID THAT WAS THE PROBLEM. *JB

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING OUR 2003 MAZDA 6 WITH 56,000 MILES TO SCHOOL ON THURSDAY MORNING ON A BUSY 2-LANE HIGHWAY. SHE SHIFTED (LIKELY TO 4TH), AND THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION LOCKED-UP. FORTUNATELY, SHE IS AN EXPERIENCED DRIVER AND WAS ABLE TO DISENGAGE THE CLUTCH AND COAST THE CAR TO THE SHOULDER WITHOUT INCIDENT. IF SHE HAD BEEN INEXPERIENCED, OR IF A SHOULDER HAD NOT BEEN AVAILABLE, OR IF THE CAR BEHIND HER HAD BEEN CLOSER, THE OUTCOME COULD HAVE BEEN TRAGIC. REGARDING, THE TRANSMISSION, IT HAD BEEN MAINTAINED WITH ALL OF THE RECOMMENDED FLUID CHANGES, AND IT WAS LOCKED-UP AND DAMAGED BEYOND ECONOMICAL REPAIR. A USED TRANSMISSION WAS INSTALLED BY THE LOCAL MAZDA DEALER AT A COST OF OVER $2,000. *NM

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED AFTER FAINTING, THE VEHICLE STRUCK A STOP SIGN AT 10 MPH. THE IMPACT OCCURRED IN THE CENTER OF THE HOOD. THE AIR BAGS DIDN'T DEPLOY UNTIL THE CONSUMER OPENED THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR TO EXIT THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND WAS DEEMED TOTALED BY THE INSURANCE COMPANY. THERE HAS BEEN NO INSPECTION OF THE AIR BAG PROBLEM. UPDATED 6/16/2006 - *NM

BEGINNING IN 2006, MY 2003 MAZDA 6 WOULD RANDOMLY EXPERIENCE POWER FAILURE WHILE DRIVING. THIS WAS BOTH SCARY AND DANGEROUS. I WOULD BE DRIVING, THE CAR WOULD COMPLETELY LOOSE POWER WITH NO WARNING AND ALL THE LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD WOULD COME ON. I WOULD HAVE TO PULL OVER, TURN MY CAR OFF AND BACK ON, AND THEN IT WOULD WORK FINE TILL IT RANDOMLY HAPPENED AGAIN. OBVIOUSLY LOOSING POWER AT A HIGH SPEED IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS FOR BOTH MYSELF AND THE OTHER DRIVERS. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP MANY TIMES AND THEY WERE NEVER ABLE TO DETERMINE A CAUSE. I BROUGHT MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP OVER 10 TIMES FOR THIS BEHAVIOR. FINALLY IN AUGUST 2008, I WAS READING ON A MAZDA MESSAGE BOARD THAT THIS BEHAVIOR IS CAUSED BY A BAD THROTTLE BODY. THERE WAS EVEN A MAZDA SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUED FOR IT IN 2006 (BULLETINS 01-016/06 LAST ISSUED MAY 18, 2006). I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP, HAD THE THROTTLE BODY REPLACED AND HAVE NOT EXPERIENCED THIS BEHAVIOR SINCE. THE SERVICE BULLETIN HAD SERIAL NUMBERS OF BAD THROTTLE BODIES LISTED ON IT, MINE WAS ONE OF THEM. I BELIEVE THAT THIS SHOULD BE A MAZDA RECALL, NOT JUST A SERVICE BULLETIN, AS DEALERSHIPS DO NOT EVEN SEEM TO BE AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AND IT THE CAR IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS IF THE THROTTLE BODY FAILS. *TR

MULTIPLE PROBLEMS FROM CAROUSEL MOTORS HIGHWAY 1 WEST, IOWA CITY IOWA 52246. 319-354-2550 WHILE CHANGING OIL THEY DISCONNECTED A HOSE WHICH ANOTHER DEALER WAS ABLE TO FIND AND REPAIR. WHILE TALKING THE CAR IN AND HAVING IT IN THEIR POSSESSION IT RECEIVED $3,000 DAMAGE. THEY COULD NOT DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM IN OVER 20 DAYS. NEXT THEY PUT A FUSE BOX DOOR COVER ON UNDER WARRANTY. IN DOING SO THEY REMOVED THE SILL COVER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. WHEN THEY REPLACED THE SILL COVER THE DROVE THE LOCK DOWNS ON THE COVER THROUGH THE WIRING HARNESS. OBLIVIOUS TO WHAT THE HAD DONE THEY BLAMED ME FOR THE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. CAROUSEL MOTORS SHOULD NOT HAVE A MAZDA FRANCHISE. IT IS NOT FOR THE SEEMINGLY OBVIOUS REASONS AS STATED BUT FOR THE FACT THAT A MR. PAT LINN THE GENERAL MANAGER FOR THE DEALERSHIP HAS CALLED MY PLACE OF EMPLOYMENT RAKING ME THROUGH THE DIRT TO MY MANAGER AT WORK TO COMPLAIN ABOUT ME TO MY BOSS. HE HAS TURNED THIS INTO A PERSONAL MATTER AND NOT A BUSINESS MATTER. IS THIS A REACTION OF AN ADULT? HIS OWNER NEEDS TO LOCK HIS HEALS TOGETHER, RELEASE HIM FROM HIS POSSITION, AND HAVE THE DEALERSHIP APPOLOGIZE FOR HIS MISUSE OF HIS POSITION. HARRASSMENT AND SLANDER ARE NOT AND WILL NOT BE TOLLERATED. PLEASE FORWARD THIS TO MAZDA . *AK

I PURCHASED MY MAZDA IN 2003. SINCE THE PURCHASE EVERYTHING WAS FINE UNTIL THE END OF OCT. 2005 MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND MY CAR WAS SHAKING, AND MY RPMS WHERE MALFUNCTIONING (GOING UP AND DOWN, THEN BACK UP AGAIN). I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP AND WAS INFORMED THAT MY CAR JUMPED TIME, MY CAR HAD UNDER 45K MILES. THEY FIXED IT, BUT IN THE BEGINNING OF NOV. 2005, NOT EVEN A MONTH LATER, MY CAR DID THE SAME THING, BUT THIS TIME I WAS TOLD THAT THE BOLTS IN MY ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACE. THEN IN THE SUMMER OF 2006 I HAD A VACUUM LEAK, MY CAR WOULD START AND STOP, I HAD THAT REPAIRED AT REPAIR SHOP OF MY OWN CHOSE, SINCE MY WARRANTY WAS UP. NOW IN APRIL 2007, I WAS INFORMED BY A REPAIR SHOP, OF MY OWN CHOSE, THAT I THROWN A ROD IN MY MOTOR. *TR

I HAD A TERRIBLE EXPERIENCE COUPLE OF DAYS AGO. WHEN I WAS DRIVING BACK HOME IN THE MIDNIGHT AND IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, MY LESS THAN 2 AND HALF YEARS OLD MAZDA 6 START TO MAKE VERY LOUD ANNOYING NOISE. I WAS SCARED TO DEATH AT THAT TIME. LATER I FOUND OUT THERE IS A MANUFACTURE DEFECT RELATING TO THE PROBLEM THAT I HAD EXPERIENCED, WHICH MAZDA HAS KNOWN THE PROBLEM ABOUT A YEAR AGO. THEY EVEN HAVE A BULLETIN DESCRIBE THIS PROBLEM AND THE TITLE IS '04-004/04 2003-2003 MAZDA 6 -FRONT BRAKE JUDDER AND /OR BRAKE MOAN NOISE'. THEY NEVER MADE ANY RECALLS ON THIS ISSUE AND LEAVE THIS RISK TO THEIR CUSTOMER INTENTIONALLY. *NM

FRONT (RIGHT) END SQUEAKS/GRINDS MAINLY WHILE TURNING, HOWEVER HAS CONTINUED AFTER STRAIGHTENING OUT. STARTED AROUND 10,000 MILES. I'VE TAKEN IT IN 3 DIFFERENT TIMES TO TWO DIFFERENT DEALERS. THIS LAST TIME (NOW AT ~50,000) I WAS TOLD IT WAS A BREAK PAD PROBLEM AND THAT: MY BREAK PADS WERE 80% WORN. MY ROTORS NEEDED TO BE TURNED. I WAS ALSO NOW CHARGED FOR THIS VISIT THAT STILL DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM. *NM

DT: THE CONSUMER STATED THE ENGINE HESITATED WHEN SHE HIT THE GAS AND WHEN SHE IS DRIVING, IT SEEMED TO HESITATE AND THEN GOES ON. SHE SAID THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. SHE HAS HAD IT TO THE DEALER THREE TIMES. ALL THIS HAS HAPPENED IN THE LAST THREE WEEKS. SHE SAID THAT TWO MONTHS AGO THEY TRIED TO LOCK IT AND THE HORN STARTED BLOWING. THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. *JB

THE TRANSMISSION IN MY 2003 MAZDA 6S HAS FAILED ON ME 2 TIMES IN 2 YEARS AT THE MOST DIFFUCULT TIMES... FINALS WEEK AT COLLEGE AND ASLO DURING A BUSY TIME OF WORK. THE DEALERSHIP HAS ACKKNOWLEDGEWD THE PROBLEM AND REPROGRAMMED THE COMPUTER SYSTEM. STILL THE CAR HAD PROBLEMS IMMIDIEATLEY AFTER THAT VISIT, THE TRANSMISSION FAILED. THEY REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION WITH A NEW ONE, IT TOO HAD THE SAME PROBLEMS... THEY ACKNOWLEDGED THE SITUATION AND WERE UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THEY TOLD ME THAT MY CAR ALREADY HAD THE UPGRADED COMPUTER PROGRAM THAT IS SUPPOSED TO FIX THE ERRATIC SHIFTING. AND THAT I SHOULD RETURN IF IT GETS WORSE. WHEN IT DID, THE TECHNICIAN DROVE IT AND NOW KNOWS WHAT IT IS DOING, BUT HE TOO SAID HE DOESN'T KNOW HOW TO FIX THE PROBLEM IF NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS ARE COMING ON.... THATS THE OTHER PROBLEM. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DON'T COME ON WHEN THE CAR DOES IT, BUT FURTHER MORE THEY DON'T EVEN COME ON WHEN THE TRANSMISSION FAILS COMPLETELY! I AM WORRIED THAT THIS CAR HAS A MAJOR PROBLEMS THAT WILL ONLY GET WORSE AND ADVERSLEY AFFECT OTHER COMPONENTS. WHICH IT ALREADY HAS... THEY RACK AND PINION WENT OUT AND ALMOST CAUSED ME TO WRECK INTO A CITY BUS, THE SUBFRAME WAS INSTALLED TOO TIGHT AND CAUSED THE CAR TO SQUEAK AND RATTLE, THE BRAKES HAVE A CHATTER THAT HAS BEEN ADDRESSED AND HAVE BEEN REPLACED TWICE. BUT MOST OF AL ALL OF THESE THINGS HAVE HAPPENED IN THE FIRST 2 YEARS (20 MONTHS.) THE ORIGINAL TRANSMISSION ISSUE WAS ADDRESSED AT 12,000 MILES AND HAS SINCE BY MY OPINION BEEN THE CAUSE OF THE OTHER RELATED PROBLEMS. ALSO THE CAR SITS AN INCH AND A QUARTER LOWER ON THE PASSENGER FRONT THAN THE DRIVER FRONT. CAUSING THE REAR TO ALSO BE UNEVEN.

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THERE WERE SEVERAL PROBLEMS WITH THE VEHICLE. THE FIRST PROBLEM INVOLVED THE BRAKE PADS THAT WERE WORN OUT AND HAD TO BE REPLACED AFTER 20,000 MILES. THE SECOND PROBLEM DEALT WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION. SOMETIMES THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION SHIFTED ROUGHLY. THIRD PROBLEM, IN COLD WEATHER, THE ENGINE SURGED AND REVVED HIGH FOR THREE SECONDS. THE DEALERSHIP TOLD THE CONTACT THE BRAKE WEAR WAS NORMAL. THE DEALERSHIP COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE OTHER PROBLEMS. *AK

ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED TWICE WITHIN LESS THAN 5 1/2 YRS. TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED WITHIN 6YRS. BRAKES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED EVERY YEAR AND A HALF. INTERIOR CHEAPLY MADE. ALL PART ON THIS VEHICLE ARE PLASTIC AND BRAKE VERY EASY. MOTOR MOUNTS NEEDED TO BE REPLACE WITHIN 4 YRS. THIS VEHICLE IS A OWNERS NIGHTMARE . I WOULD NEVER RECOMMENDED ANYONE TO PURCHASE THIS CAR. REPAIRS COST MORE THAN THE CAR IS WORTH. ENGINE REPAIR $6000.00, MOTOR MOUNTS $900, TRANSMISSION $2400-$4800, BRAKES $400, AND THE COST GOES ON. (LEMON). *TR

I PURCHASED MY 2003 MAZDA6 IN JUNE OF 2003. SINCE THEN IT HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP FOR MUTIPLE PROBLEMS. SEVERAL RECALLS OF COURSE, BUT THE FIRST MAJOR PROBLEM CAME WHEN THE CAR WAS ABOUT 1 YEAR OLD AND MY RADIATOR SEAM AT THE BOTTOM SEPERATED. THEY REPLACED THE RADIATOR. WHEN I PICKED THE CAR UP MY AIR CONDITIONING WAS NOT WORKING, SO I RETURNED THE CAR AND THE PROBLEM WAS FIXED AT THAT TIME. APRIL OF 2005, MY CAR ONLY HAD ABOUT 19,000 MILES ON IT MY AIR CONDITIONING STARTED BLOWING HOT AIR. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THE STATED THAT MY FREON WAS LOW AND CHARGED IT UP. I ASKED HOW THAT COULD BE WITH A CAR AS NEW AS THIS ONE AND THEY STATED, IT WAS NORMAL. FOR A CAR THAT IS LESS THAN 2 YEARS OLD?? LAST WEEK, AUGUST OF 2005, ONCE AGAIN MY AIR IS BLOWING HOT,PARTICULALY WHEN SITTING IN AN IDLE POSITION,WORKS BETTER UPON ACCLERATION. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY STATED THE CONTROL FAN MODULE WAS BAD AND REPLACED IT,WHICH BY THE WAY HAD ALREADY BEEN REPLACED WITH A RECALL. AS OF AUGUSST 22, 2005 MY AIR IS STILL NOT WORKING PROPERLY. WE WENT ON A SHORT TRIP AND WERE STUCK IN A TRAFFIC JAM. ONCE AGAIN THE AIR WOULD NOT BLOW COLD WHILE WE WERE SITTING. I KNOW THIS IS NOT RIGHT BECAUSE WHEN WE FIRST GOT THE CAR, THE AIR WORKED GREAT. I AM REALLY FRUSTRATED WITH THIS CAR,I JUST KEEP WAITING FOR THE NEXT THING TO GO WRONG. I HAVE ALSO HAD TO REPLACE MY BRAKED PADS AND HAD THE LEFT FRONT ROTOR TURNED. I THINK MAZDA OWES US ALL OF US THAT HAVE PURCHASED THESE CARS AND HAD MAJOR PROBLEMS A BIG APOLOGY . AND SHOULD REPLACE THESE VEHICLES, WHICH I KNOW WILL NEVER HAPPEN.

MY CAR HAS HAD ALL OF IT'S ROUTINE MAINTENANCE DONE. AT 30K I HAD TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION AT 20 I HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR. AT 60K I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION AGAIN! AT 60K I HAD TO REPLACE A TRANSAXLE SOMETHING OR ANOTHER . NOW AT 66K IT IS DOING ALL OF THE SAME THINGS THAT IT WAS DOING BEFORE THE TRANSMISSIONS WENT OUT, AND IT'S BECAUSE "I NEED A NEW AIR FILTER, SPARK PLUGS, AND FUEL FILTER" THE CAR JERKS VERY HARD WHEN SLOWING DOWN ON THE FREEWAY THE RPM RACE, LIKE IT WON'T GEAR DOWN. WHEN I PUT IT IN PARK IT'S AS IF I AM PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL DOWN AND REVVING THE ENGINE. BUT THE CAR IS IN PARK, AND THERE IS NO PRESSURE ON THE GAS PEDAL WHAT SO EVER! I HATE THIS CAR, AND RECOMMEND NO ONE TO BUY ONE! I WILL BE VOICING MY OPINION OF THE CAR IN THE CAR WINDOWS, AND TELLING EVERYONE I KNOW ABOUT THE POOR QUALITY OF THIS CAR. YOU WOULD THINK THAT PAYING 27K FOR A VEHICLE THAT IT WOULD LAST!*JB

BRAKES STILL GRINDING WHEN STOPPING. ANOTHER NEW SET OF BRAKES WAS PUT ON.DEALER STATED THE THE BRAKE LINE WAS BROKE.

THE CAR GOT STUCK IN A MIXTURE OF MUD AND SNOW. DURING THE EFFORT TO GET THE CAR UNSTUCK THERE WAS A SPARK INSIDE OF THE CAR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. THE OCCUPANTS OF THE CAR EXITED THE CAR AND FOUND THAT THERE WERE FLAMES SHOOTING OUT FROM UNDERNEATH THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. THEY WERE UNABLE TO STOP THE FIRE AT THAT POINT AND THE CAR HAS BEEN BURNED TO NOTHING. I FEEL THAT THERE NEEDS TO BE SOME KIND OF INVESTIGATION AS TO WHY THE CAR STARTED ON FIRE ESPECIALLY WHEN IT WAS STUCK MOSTLY IN SNOW.*AK

WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH VEHICLE INTERMITTENTLY ACCELERATED AT HIGHER SPEED. CRUISE CONTROL WOULD NOT BE ENGAGED DURING THIS ISSUE. VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, AND THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM.*AK THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND WAS TOLD THAT THE VEHCILE WAS IN GOOD CONDTION AND THAT NOTHING WAS WRONG. THE VEHICLE WOULD ALSO HESITATE AT VARIOUS SPEEDS AND MADE A CLUNKING NOISE. THE VEHICLE REVVED HIGH WHILE AT A COMPLETE STOP. THE CHECK ENIGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATED INTERMITTENTLY. EACH TIME THE DEALER TURN THE ENGINE LIGHT OUT IT WOULD COME BACK ON. *NM