2007 MINI Cooper Complaint Log

THE WALL NEXT TO THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL IS EXTREMELY HOT TO THE POINT IT CAN BURN YOUR FOOT. THIS IS CAUSED BY THE AC HEATER COMPONENTS WHEN DRIVING AND RUNNING THE AIR CONDITIONER. THE MINI COOPER DEALER DOES NOT HAVE A FIX. THE ONLY FIX THEY HAD WAS A TWO INCH INSULATED TUBE FOR THE COIL PIPE. THIS DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM AND THEY HAVE NO OTHER SOLUTION. I HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BURN MYSELF. *TR

AFTER DRIVING MY 2007 MINI COPPER S, FOR SEVERAL MINUTES THE "BRAKE" AND DSC WARNING ICONS ILLUMINATE YELLOW. ONCE ILLUMINATED THE SIGNAL CANCEL FUNCTION STOPS WORKING AND WIPERS TURN ON AUTONOMOUSLY WHEN ENGINE IS STOPPED. *TR

2007 MINI COOPER HAD LOUD SOUND COMING FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT, SOUNDED LIKE A DIESEL ENGINE WHEN COLD, DEALER REPLACED TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER AT 32K MILES, VEHICLE HAS BEEN BACK TO DEALER SEVEN TIMES, ONLY TWICE FOR SCHEDULED SERVICE, NOW VEHICLE IS STARTING TO MAKE SAME NOISE AGAIN. VEHICLE WAS SERVICED @36K MILES, NOW WITH 42K MILES, ENGINE OIL IS DOWN 2 QUARTS AND DEALER SAYS ITS MY FAULT. *TR

THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER BRACKETS ALL BROKE ON MY 07 MINI. MY MECHANIC STATED THAT THIS IN NOT A NEW ISSUE AND THE IT IS A FREQUENT PROBLEM THAT HE DEALS WITH ON SEVERAL MINIS. THEY ARE MADE OF PLASTIC AND WHEN CRACKED OR BROKEN THEY ALLOW MY TIMING CHAIN TO SLIP CAUSING DAMAGE TO MY ENGINE. I HAVE ALREADY SPENT OVER 2000 DOLLARS IN REPAIRS FOR THIS PROBLEM, AND IT HAS HAPPENED TWICE IN THE LAST 5 YEAR THAT I HAVE OWNED THE VEHICLE. BMW/MINI MUST TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR DEFECTIVE ENGINE PARTS. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THESE VEHICLES FOR IT CAN CAUSE ENOUGH DAMAGE TO WERE YOU WOULD NEED A NEW ENGINE. *TR

MINI ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN ON FAILED TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS IN 2009. SERVICE BULLETINS SIM-11-02-07 AND PUMA MEASURE NUMBER 10686850-13. THE BULLETIN STATES THAT WHEN A CUSTOMER COMES IN WITH A TENSIONER PROBLEM THAT ALL CARS AFFECTED WILL RECEIVE A NEW TIMING CHAIN, CHAIN GUIDES, CAM SPROCKETS AND VANOS UNIT. ON 6/23/10 MY VEHICLE REQUIRED THIS REPAIR. BECAUSE I WASN'T AWARE OF THE SERVICE BULLETINS THE MINI DEALERSHIP ONLY REPLACED MY VEHICLES TENSIONER WITHOUT REPLACING THE OTHER PARTS...THE TENSIONER IS AN EASY REPLACE AND THE ACTUAL TIMING CHAIN IS A 9.9 HOUR JOB SO I'M ASSUMING THEY TOOK THE EASY ROUTE WITH LESS ACCUMULATING LABOR. NOW WE'RE 23 MONTHS INTO THAT REPAIR AND THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER HAS GONE BAD...AGAIN. THIS TIME THE TENSIONER GOING OUT ALSO CAUSED THE TIMING CHAIN TO FAIL ALONG WITH THE CHAIN GUIDES. MINI WILL REPLACE THE TENSIONER AGAIN, WHICH IS A 26 DOLLAR PART, BECAUSE IT IS WITHIN THE 24 MONTH WARRANTY...BUT BECAUSE THE MINI DEALER THAT LAST REPLACED THE TENSIONER DID NOT FOLLOW THE BULLETINS ISSUED AND REPLACE THE OTHER PIECES INVOLVED IN THE BULLETIN, THEY SAY I'M RESPONSIBLE. MINI NOW WANTS TO CHARGE ME 1967 DOLLARS FOR THE REPAIR OF THE TIMING CHAIN AND CHAIN GUIDES BECAUSE IT SAYS THE OTHER PARTS ARE NOT COVERED. THE CAR HAS 50,062 MILES (WARRANTY IS TO 50K). THERE ARE WELL OVER 200 ENTRIES THAT I FOUND ON THE INTERNET WITH THIS PROBLEM AND A PETITION WITH OVER 650 SIGNATURES. WHEN IS SOMETHING GOING TO BE DONE? *TT

I HAVE HAD AN ISSUE WITH MY 07' MINI COOPER S ENGINE'S TIMING CHAIN SINCE 2010. THE TENSIONER BRACKETS FOR THE TIMING CHAIN THAT CAME WITH MY 07 MINI ARE MADE OUT OF PLASTIC AND BREAK EASILY, CAUSING THE TIMING BELT TO SLIP AND DAMAGE MY ENGINE. IT HAS CURRENTLY COST ME 1500 DOLLARS IN REPAIRS TO FIX THE ISSUE. THE REPAIR CAN ONLY BE A TEMPORARY FIX BECAUSE THE BRACKETS WERE SIMPLY REPLACED WITH THE SAME PLASTIC BRACKETS THAT BROKE PREVIOUSLY. I AM SIMPLY AWAITING THE DAY THEY BREAK AGAIN. THIS IS NOT A NEW ISSUE, AS I HAVE SEEN MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS OF THIS VERY SAME ISSUE ALL OVER THE INTERNET AND BMW NEEDS TO BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR DEFECTED ENGINES. I SUGGEST A RECALL BE PLACED ON THE 07 - 10 MINI COOPERS, COOPER S, AND CONVERTIBLES, FOR THEIR DEFECTIVE TENSIONER BRACKETS FOR THE TIMING CHAIN BECAUSE IT CAN CAUSE SEVERE DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE IF NOT DESTROY THE ENGINE COMPLETELY. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 MINI COOPER S. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CLUTCH WOULD NOT ENGAGE OR SHIFT INTO FIRST, SECOND OR ANY OTHER GEAR. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE CLUTCH WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED WITHIN TWO WEEKS AND THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT CALLED THE MANUFACTURER WHO STATED THAT THEY COULD NOT OFFER ASSISTANCE SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 40,000. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 25,000.

THIS VEHICLE HAS TWICE HAD A FAILURE OF THE TIMING CHAIN AS A RESULT OF A FAULTY TENSIONER, RESULTING IN CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURE. THE FIRST INCIDENT OCCURRED FROM A DEAD STOP IN A PARKING LOT SO THERE WAS NO IMMEDIATE SAFETY ISSUE. THE SECOND INCIDENT, OCCURRING 12/03/2012, MANIFESTED AS THE VEHICLE WAS DE-ACCELERATING COMING OFF A HIGHWAY EXIT WITH A TOTAL LOSS OF POWER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE EXIT, IN A REMOTE AREA. MINI COOPER SENT THEIR TECHNICIANS IN 2007 A "SERVICE BULLETIN," SHORT OF A RECALL, WHEN THE TREND WAS DISCOVERED AMONG ITS "R56' MODEL ENGINES IN 2008. I HAD WARNED MINI OF SOUNDS WHICH LATER WERE DETERMINED BY INDEPENDENT EXPERTS TO BE THE TIMING CHAIN'S "DEATH RATTLE" PRIOR TO THE FIRST FAILURE, WHICH THEY ATTRIBUTED TO THE CAR'S "GO-KART LIKE START UP." AFTER 6 MONTHS OF STRUGGLING, MINI AGREED TO 80% OF THE REPAIR COSTS, WITH A NEW TIMING CHAIN UNDER A ONE YEAR WARRANTY. OTHER FAILURES SIDELINED THE VEHICLE FOR MONTHS IN THE INTERVENING TIME, AND DUE TO THE INCREDIBLE COST OF REPAIR THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE GARAGED UNTIL REPAIRED. SO ALTHOUGH OVER A YEAR PASSED BETWEEN TIMING CHAIN FAILURES, ABOUT ONLY ABOUT 39K MILES WERE DRIVEN IN THAT TIME. AS OF NOW, MINI IS ONLY OFFERING 50% CULPABILITY, THIS AFTER STARTING A VOCAL TWITTER CAMPAIGN. I STILL OWE $10K ON A VEHICLE THAT REQUIRES UP TO $5K IN REPAIRS- A REPAIR WHICH WILL ONLY REPLACE A DEFECTIVE PART WITH THE SAME DEFECTIVE PART. *TT

THE CAR HAS A LOUD RATTLE SOUND WHEN STARTED WHEN COLD , OR THE FIRST TIME AFTER SITTING OVERNIGHT. NOISE WILL SUBSIDE AS ENGINE COMES UP TO RUNNING TEMPERATURE. HAS DEVELOPED INTO A HARD STARTING ISSUE OVER TIME. AT TIMES IT TAKES AS MANY AS TEN ATTEMPTS CRANKING THE ENGINE TO GET IT TO START. WHEN RESEARCHING ONLINE, I HAVE FOUND A FORUM ON MINI COOPER PROBLEMS THAT DESCRIBES THE ISSUE EXACTLY AND ALSO HAS A VIDEO WITH SOUND THAT EXACTLY MATCHES MY CARS PROBLEM. THEY DESCRIBE IT AS THE TIMING CHAIN AND TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER THAT COULD CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE IF NOT CORRECTED.

UPON STARTING MY ENGINE EVERY MORNING THERE IS A LARGE CLATTERING NOISE COMING FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. IT SEEMS TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER AS THE PART DOES NOT GET ENOUGH OIL IN IT AS IT DRAINS OUT AFTER SITTING FOR A FEW HOURS. IF THE PART IS NOT REPLACED OR FIXED THE TIMING CHAIN WILL EVENTUALLY BREAK AND RUIN MY ENGINE. MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THIS IS A FACTORY ISSUE THAT BMW/MINI REFUSE TO ACKNOWLEDGE OR FIX. *TR

R56 MCS MINI 2007 - BOUGHT USED IN SEPT 09 HAD THE "COLD START RATTLE" BUT DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IT WAS AT THE TIME. ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AT 38,000 DEALER REPLACED TIMING CHAIN . ON THE WAY HOME VACUUM PUMP SEIZED CAUSING DAMAGE TO THE VALUES. DEALER SENT PICTURES TO MINI AND THE DECISION WAS MADE TO REPLACE THE ENGINE WITH A NEW ONE.

2007 MINI COOPER S. AFTER 26000 MILES I HAVE A WHAT APPEARS TO BE A RATTLING ENGINE WHEN STARTING THE ENGINE FROM A COLD START (SITTING OVERNIGHT). SO THIS HAPPENS EVERY MORNING. I LIVE IN FLORIDA WITH RELATIVELY WARM TEMPERATURES. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY CLAIM THE DIESEL ENGINE SOUND COMING OUT OF THE CAR IS NORMAL. I DIDN'T BY THE CAR THIS WAY. I HAVE FOUND VARIOUS FORUMS AND YOUTUBE VIDEOS OF THIS PROBLEM. PLEASE HELP. *TR

THE CAR HAS BEEN AT THE DEALER EVERY OTHER WEEK FOR THE LAST 6 WEEKS. ON COLD STARTS THE CAR WOULD RUN ROUGH, HESITATE ALMOST STALL AND THE HEAT WASN'T WORKING UNLESS YOU WERE DRIVING OR HAD YOUR FOOT ON THE GAS. THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER THEY REPLACED THE TIMING CHAIN CHANGED THE OIL AND BLED THE COOLANT. A FEW DAYS LATER IT STALLED ON A COLD START AND THE HEAT STILL WASN'T WORKING. THE DEALER THIS TIME FOUND EXCESSIVE CARBON IN ENGINE AND A LEAK AT WATER PUMP. COMPUTER DID NOT THROUGHOUT A CODE FOR EITHER. DEALER OPENED A CASE AT THE MANUFACTURE. 2 WEEKS LATER I BROUGHT IT BACK WHEN THE WINDOWS WOULD GO HALF WAY DOWN AND THE DOOR WOULD UNLOCK. DEALER RESET THE WINDOWS AND I WENT TO PICK IT UP TO FIND THE WINDOWS HALF WAY DOWN AND THE DOORS UNLOCKED. DEALER REPLACED THE MOTOR. 2 WEEKS LATER MY BATTERY LIGHT WHEN ON. ON THE WAY TO THE DEALER THE CAR DIED. DEALER SAID THERE WAS AN OIL LEAK THE LED TO THE ALTERNATOR BELT SLIPPING OFF AND MY BATTERY DIDN'T CHARGE AND NOW IS DEAD. I WON'T GET IT BACK UNTIL SOMETIME NEXT WEEK. THIS CAR ONLY HAS 26,000 MILES ON IT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 MINI COOPER. THE CONTACT STATED WHEN TRAVELING AT ANY SPEED, THERE WAS AN UNUSUAL POP COMING FROM THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE, SPECIFICALLY WHEN ATTEMPTING A TURN IN EITHER DIRECTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A LOCAL MECHANIC WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT BOTH FRONT SWAY BAR BUSHINGS WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE TRANSMISSION MOUNT WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 31,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 40,000.

I OWN A 2007 MINI COOPER WITH FACTORY INSTALLED GPS. WHEN MY BRAKE SENSOR ACTIVATED MY GPS STOPPED WORKING. THE DEALER SAYS THE ENTIRE SYSTEM MUST BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $2,500. IS ANYONE AWARE OF ELECTRICAL DEFECTS IN THE MINI SYSTEM THAT WOULD CAUSE THIS PROBLEM? *TR

I BOUGHT 2007 MINI COOPER S PRE-OWNED CAR ON 8/24/09 WHICH HAS 3,627 MILES ON IT AT $24,000. ON 10/25/09, IS ONLY 3 MONTHS LATER, I WAS DRIVING A CAR AND NOTICED SMELLING SOMETHING BURNING. THE CAR WON'T GO IN GEAR AND MOVE. ON THAT NIGHT, THE CAR STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE LOAD. EVEN IF I PUSH A GAS, IT JUST DOES MAKE NOISY SOUND AND SMELL REALLY BAD, AND IT NEVER MOVE. NEXT DAY IT WAS TOWED TO THE ORLANDO MINI DEALER. THE DEALER SAYS THAT THE CLUTCH WAS BURNED OUT AND THIS REPAIR (PER THE DEALERS ESTIMATE IS $3,000)IS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY BECAUSE IT WAS DRIVEN BY AN INEXPERIENCED PERSON OR NEGLECTED. I AM AN EXPERIENCED MANUAL CAR DRIVER AND WHAT THE DEALER TOLD ME IS NOT TRUE. IT IS ONLY 4,000 MILES AND IT SHOULD NEVER HAPPEN IF WE DRIVE IN A NORMAL WAY. THE DEALER DID NOT LISTEN TO ME AND I ENDED UP GOING A RELIABLE LOCAL MECHANIC AND PAYING $2,200 TO FIX IT WITHOUT WARRANTY. THE GUY AT THE MECHANIC SAYS MINI CLUTCH IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM AND HE HAS FIXED SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE. I ALSO WENT TO A WEBSITE AND REALIZED THAT MANY PEOPLE HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM AND EVEN SAY IT MIGHT HAPPEN AGAIN SOON. I BELIEVE IT WAS A DEFECTED CLUTCH AND WOULD LIKE TO COMPLAIN ABOUT IT. I HAVE ALL EVIDENCES AVAILABLE. I WOULD APPRECIATE IF YOU COULD HELP ME TO RECOVER MY MONETARY DAMAGES. *TR

2007 MINI COOPER S SPONTANEOUSLY CAUGHT FIRE WHILE TURNED OFF AND PARKED IN MY GARAGE. I HAD TRAVELED LESS THAN TWO MILES WHEN I PARKED THE CAR. FIRE STARTED UNDER THE HOOD AND COMPLETELY TOTALED THE CAR BY THE TIME THE FIRE DEPARTMENT ARRIVED AND PUT IT OUT. *TR

I OWN A 2007 MINI COOPER. THE TAIL PIPE IS LARGE EXTENDS BEYOND THE EDGE OF THE BUMPER. I HAD DRIVEN MY CAR APPROXIMATELY 20 MILES AND PARKED IT, THEN OPENED THE BACK TO RETRIEVE SOME ITEMS FROM THE CARGO AREA. MY LEG CAME INTO CONTACT WITH THE TAIL PIPE AND I RECEIVED A SEVERE BURN WHICH WAS EXTREMELY PAINFUL AND BECAME BLISTERED. THE BURN WAS LARGE AND IN THE SHAPE OF A HALF MOON. THERE IS STILL A SCAR ON MY LEG FROM THIS. I CONTACTED BMW MINI NORTH AMERICA, TOLD THEM WHAT HAD HAPPENED, AND SENT THEM A PICTURE OF MY LEG WITH THE BURN ON IT. THEY ARRANGED FOR ME TO BRING MY CAR IN TO THE DEALERSHIP AND HAVE AN ENGINEER EVALUATE THE CAR FOR ANY DEFECTS IN THE TAILPIPE. LATER I WAS TOLD THAT THE TAILPIPE WAS MANUFACTURED PROPERLY AND I SHOULD JUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH IT. I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT THERE IS A WARNING IN THE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR THE CAR REGARDING THE TAIL PIPE. I LOOKED IT UP AND IT SAYS "DO NOT TOUCH HOT EXHAUST TAIL PIPES. OTHERWISE THERE IS A RISK OF BURNS". UNFORTUNATELY, THE TAIL PIPE IS IN A POSITION WHERE A PERSON'S LEG WOULD NORMALLY BE WHEN RETRIEVING ITEMS FROM THE CARGO AREA OF THE CAR. AND SINCE IT PROTRUDES PAST THE BUMPER, IT IS DIFFICULT NOT TO TOUCH IT. *TR

AS WITH ALOT OF OTHER MINI COOPER S MODELS FOR THIS YEAR, MY TIMING CHAIN STARTED TO RATTLE, THE DEALER REPLACED IT UNDER WARRANTY, NOT ONCE, BUT TWICE, THE WATER PUMP HAD BEEN REPLACED, FUEL PUMP REPLACED, THROTTLE BODY REPLACED AND THE LIST COULD CONTINUE. NOW THE CAR HAS 98,234 MILES ON IT AND IT IS SITTING AT THE DEALERSHIP WITH A BLOWN MOTOR FROM BAD #3 CYLINDER, LEAKING HEAD GASKET, AND VALVE ISSUES. THIS CAR HAS SEVERAL DESIGN FLAWS THAT THE MANUFACTURER WILL NOT OWN UP TO. FOR A CAR WITH A PRICE TAG OF OVER $32, 000 MADE FROM BMW, YOU WOULDN'T EXPECT ANY OF THIS. *TR

PASSENGER AIRBAG LIGHT OFF COMES ON AND OFF REGULARLY, HAVE REPEATEDLY REPORTED PROBLEM TO DEALER. WAS IN CAR ACCIDENT, FRONT ON COLLISION OVER 30 MPH, NEITHER AIRBAG DEPLOYED. NEW WARNING CAME ON STATING PROBLEMS WITH AIRBAG SYSTEM, DEALER SAID THERE WAS NO PROBLEM. WARNING LIGHTS KEEP COMING ON, HAVE REPORTED PROBLEM TO DEALER, WAITING ON REPLACEMENT PART. *TR

EIGHT MONTHS AFTER MINI OF CONCORD REPLACED MY HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP FOR THE GASOLINE LEAK AND STRONG GAS SMELL WITHIN THE CABIN, AGAIN THE GAS SMELL STARTED UP IN THE CABIN (FOR ALL TRIPS). I TOOK IT BACK TO MINI OF CONCORD (THIS IS 22 MONTHS AFTER BUYING CAR), AND THEY AGAIN FOUND A LEAK IN THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP AND LINE, AND REPLACED THE PARTS - AGAIN. THIS WAS THE FOURTH REPLACEMENT OF THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP ON MY CAR! THEY ALSO REPLACED THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER BECAUSE OF THE LOUD NOISE IT WAS MAKING ON STARTUP. AND THE INLET CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. *TR

AIRBAG LIGHT ON SPEEDOMETER/TACH, NOT IN OVERHEAD CONSOLE. *TR

I PURCHASED A 2007 MINI-COOPER S AND AT 10K MILES (1 YEAR OLD) THE CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW A NEW CAR WITH 10K MILES NEEDS A NEW CLUTCH. THE DEALERSHIP AND THE MANUFACTURER BOTH SAID IT WAS MY FAULT AND THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. THEY QUOTED ME OVER $3K TO REPAIR. I HAVE BEEN DRIVING MANUAL CARS FOR 15 YEARS AND HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH A CLUTCH. *TR

VERY NOISY CLATTER WHEN STARTING ENGINE WHEN COLD. ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE A DIESEL WHEN COLD. GOES AWAY AFTER A COUPLE OF MINUTES. DEALER SAYS ITS NORMAL ??? PROBLEM OCCURS EVERY MORNING. *TR

ENGINE EXHIBITS HASH NOISE DURING STARTUP 50% OF THE TIME AFTER MINIMUM OF 8 HR SHUTDOWN AT BELOW FREEZING TEMPERATURES. THE ISSUE IS A DEFECTIVE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER WHICH THE DEALER WON'T REPLACE BECAUSE 1) THEY CAN'T REPRODUCE THE STARTUP NOISE OR 2) THIS IS "NORMAL." OTHER VEHICLES OF THIS MAKE, MODEL, AND ENGINE HAVE EXPERIENCED CATASTROPHIC ENGINE FAILURES BECAUSE OF DEALER INACTION AND SUBSEQUENT TIMING CHAIN FAILURE. *TR

ENGINE EXHIBITS HARSH NOISE DURING STARTUP 50% OF THE TIME AFTER MINIMUM OF 8 HR SHUTDOWN OR IF PARKED NOSE LOW. THE ISSUE IS A DEFECTIVE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER WHICH THE DEALER WON'T REPLACE BECAUSE 1) THEY HAVEN'T RECEIVED AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR KIT FROM BMW OR 2) TRY TO EXPLAIN IT AWAY WITH THE EXCUSE THAT THIS TIMING CHAIN METAL-ON-METAL RATTLE IS "NORMAL." AN INCREASING WORLD-WIDE NUMBER OF VEHICLES OF THIS MAKE, MODEL, AND ENGINE HAVE EXPERIENCED CATASTROPHIC LOW MILEAGE ENGINE FAILURES BECAUSE OF DEALER INACTION AND SUBSEQUENT TIMING CHAIN FAILURE. *TR

COLD START CHATTER. VERY NASTY DIESEL ENGINE SOUND UPON STARTUP WHEN ENGINE IS COLD. SOUND LASTS FOR UP TO 1 MINUTE IF I START DRIVING RIGHT AWAY, OR 5 MINUTES IF I LET IT SIT IDLE. OCCURS BETWEEN 800 AND 3000 RPM. REPRODUCIBLE EVERY TIME THE ENGINE IS COLD (IE, HAS NOT BEEN USED RECENTLY). *TR

WE HAVE HAD A MINI COOPER SINCE JULY 2007 WITH GOOD YEAR EXCELLENCE RUN FLAT TIRES (195/55 R16 87V). WE RECENTLY NOTICED A BULGE IN THE SIDE WALL OF THE TIRE. DUE TO SAFETY CONCERNS AND OUR MECHANIC'S RECOMMENDATION, WE REPLACED THE TIRE FOR $250.00. *TR

ENGINE NOISE ON COLD STARTS. MY CAR HAS MADE DIESEL LIKE NOISES ON COLD START UP FOR THE PAST YEAR. AT FIRST THE DEALER SAID IT WAS NORMAL. UPON INSISTING THEY ADVISED OF A BLEEDING PROCEDURE AND THEN OF A FAULTY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER. AFTER 7 MONTHS THEY FINALLY REPLACED THE TENSIONER (THEY HAD TO HEAR IT BEFORE THEY COULD REPAIR IT). THE DEALER HAD IT FOR A WEEK AND SAID IT WAS ALL FIXED. THE NOISE CAME BACK THREE DAYS LATER. I TOOK IT IN A SECOND TIME AND THEY GOT BMW ENGINEER TO LOOK AT IT. THEY REPLACED A CHECK VALVE THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO TRAP OIL IN THE VANOS SYSTEM AND SAID ONCE AGAIN IT WAS FIXED. THE NOISE WAS BACK THREE DAYS LATER. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER AND THEY WERE NOT ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE NOISE. I HAVE BEEN IN TOUCH WITH MINI OF NORTH AMERICA AND THEY HAVE ASKED ME TO KEEP A LOG AS TO HOW I DRIVE AND WHEN IT HAPPENS WITH TEMPERATURE. THE ENGINE HAS OIL AND WATER ON DEMAND RATHER THAN ALL THE TIME LIKE REGULAR ENGINES. STARTING THIS UP WITH NO OIL IN THE HEAD IS BOUND TO CAUSE DAMAGE. *TR

HOOD SCOOP ON VEHICLE HAS DEFORMED DUE TO EXCESSIVE HEAT FROM TURBO. *TR

ON 2007 MINI COOPER S, PURCHASED NEW 12-2007, EXPERIENCING WARPED/MELTED/DEFORMED SCOOPS ON BONNET(HOOD) DUE TO EXTREME HEAT ISSUE FROM TURBO, SCOOP ORIGINALLY HAD ZERO CUTOUTS, MY COOPER HAS 3 CUTOUTS IN SCOOP MADE BY MFG, OPENING NOT LARGE ENOUGH OR FAN DOES NOT RUN LONG ENOUGH TO COOL DOWN THE BONNET SCOOP OR FAN DOES NOT RUN AT ALL, FAN RUNS ABOUT 30% OF THE TIME ONLY & WARPING OCCURS ON THE BONNET SCOOP WHICH IS PAINTED PLASTIC. IF THE BONNET SCOOP WAS METAL, THIS WOULD NOT BE AN ISSUE. HEAT CAN REACH 235 DEGREES. HAVE BEEN OPENING HOOD WHEN RE-PARKING IN THE GARAGE TO ALLOW TO VENT/COOL DOWN. OPENING HOOD NOT ALWAYS POSSIBLE ,OBVIOUSLY, WHEN PARKING NOT AT HOME. WOULD LIKE MINI (BMW) TO ADDRESS THIS PROBLEM, NEEDS TO REPLACE THE PAINTED TO MATCH HOOD SCOOP, ADDRESSING WITH BMW 12-19-2008. *TR

ONE MONTH AFTER MINI OF CONCORD REPLACED MY HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP FOR THE GASOLINE LEAK AND STRONG GAS SMELL WITHIN THE CABIN, AGAIN THE GAS SMELL STARTED UP IN THE CABIN (FOR ALL TRIPS). I TOOK IT BACK TO MINI OF CONCORD (THIS IS 14 MONTHS AFTER BUYING CAR), AND THEY AGAIN FOUND A LEAK IN THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP AND LINE, AND REPLACED THE PARTS - AGAIN. THIS WAS THE THIRD OF FOUR REPLACEMENTS OF THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP ON MY CAR. *TR

2007 MINI COOPER, PURCHASED NEW, APPROX 21,000 MILES. PARKED CAR WOULD NOT GO INTO REVERSE. MANY WEB FORUMS INDICATE ONGOING PROBLEMS WITH MINI TRANSMISSIONS. *TR

SEVERAL WEEKS AGO I FOUND A CRACK IN WINDSHIELD OF 2007 MINI COOPER S ON PASSENGER SIDE BELOW WIPER. I HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED AND CAR WAS RETURNED TO ME ON SEPT. 10TH. ON SEPT. 16 I FOUND ANOTHER CRACK IN THE NEW GLASS IN APPROXIMATELY SAME SPOT! AFTER LOOKING ON INTERNET I FOUND THAT STRESS CRACKING OF THE WINDSHIELD IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR. ANYWAY, THE DEALER CLAIMS IT IS AN IMPACT CRACK AND ONLY A COINCIDENCE THAT IT OCCURRED IN SAME SPOT! AFTER ARGUING THEY AGREED TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD AT THEIR COST--AS A COURTESY. I WAS NOT AWARE OF ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD AND EVEN IF A SMALL PEBBLE HIT--THE WINDSHIELD SHOULD NOT CRACK SO EASILY. *TR

IN AUGUST OF 2008, 12 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING MY CAR, IT FOR A 2ND TIME IN 1 YEAR, STARTED TO SMELL STRONGLY LIKE GASOLINE INSIDE THE CABIN. I BROUGHT IT IN TO MINI OF CONCORD, AND THEY FOUND A LEAK IN THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP AND LINE, AND REPLACED THE PARTS - FOR A 2ND TIME. THIS WAS THE SECOND OF FOUR REPLACEMENTS OF THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP IN MY CAR. *TR

I HAVE EXPERIENCED MULTIPLE FAILURES OF THE FUEL PUMP ON MY 2007 MINI COOPER 7. IT IS NOW EXPERIENCING THE EARLY SYMPTOMS FOR A THIRD TIME. THE DEALERSHIP FAILED TO FIX THE PROBLEM ON 4 OCCASIONS PRIOR TO THE FUEL PUMP SEIZING. THEY RETURNED THE "REPAIRED" VEHICLE, AND THE REPLACEMENT FUEL PUMP WAS LEAKING (WAS OVERCOME BY THE FUMES TRYING TO DRIVE IT HOME FROM WORK THE SAME DAY IT WAS RETURNED). THEY REPAIRED IT A SECOND TIME, AND I HAD IT CHECKED BY A SECOND DEALER. WHAT ARE MY RIGHTS IN THIS SITUATION? I AM CONCERNED THERE IS A SERIOUS DEFECT WITH MY VEHICLE, AND THAT THE FUEL PUMP COULD SEIZE AGAIN SUDDENLY (AS IT DID LAST TIME). I HAVE NOW MET AT LEAST 3 OTHER OWNERS OF THE SAME MAKE AND MODEL CAR WHO HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEMS (AND WITH THE SAME DEALERSHIP, WESTCHESTER MINI/BMW). *TR

HOOD SCOOP ON 2007 MINI COOPER "S" IS MELTING DUE TO EXCESSIVE HEAT FROM TURBO. *TR

CAR CLUNKS WHILE GOING OVER ROUGH ROADS. AS PER DIAGNOSIS FROM MINI DEALERSHIP, THE "TRANSMISSION MOTOR MOUNT IS TOO SMALL AND DOES NOT DAMPEN SHOCK FROM ROAD BUMPS OR ACCELERATION TORQUE" AND WAS REPLACED. *TR

AFTER A 30 MINUTE DRIVE, I PARKED AND THEN PULLED SOMETHING OUT OF THE TRUNK. WHILE REACHING IN, I BURNED MY LEFT SHIN ON THE TAILPIPE. I SHOWED IT A COUPLE OF DAYS LATER TO OUR BURN UNIT DIRECTOR AND HE TOLD ME THAT IT WAS A FUNCTIONAL FULL THICKNESS BURN IN AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS LOCATION (BECAUSE OF THE POOR BLOOD PERFUSION TO THE SHIN, HEALING IS IMPAIRED AND INFECTION RISK IS HIGH). HE SENT ME HOME FROM WORK ON ANTIBIOTICS AND I HAD TO BE ON BED REST WITH MY LEG ELEVATED. I SPOKE TO MINI AND THEY SUGGESTED THAT I BE CAREFUL - AS THE TAILPIPE CAN GET HOT. I THANKED THEM FOR THE ADVICE AND MADE THE FOLLOWING POINT: SURE, IT GETS HOT... IT'S AN EXHAUST TAILPIPE. HOWEVER, IT'S THE FIRST THING MY LEG COMES IN CONTACT TO AND IT'S IN THE CENTER OF A CAR THAT REQUIRES YOU TO GET CLOSE IN ORDER TO PULL SOMETHING OUT OF THE TRUNK. I SUGGESTED THAT BMW ISSUE A RECALL AND ADJUST THE TAILPIPE SO THAT THE FIRST THING THE LEG HITS IS THE BUMPER (LIKE MOST CARS). I WAS TOLD THAT NO CHANGE WAS PLANNED AT THIS TIME. MY POINTS: IT'S A BAD DESIGN. IT'S AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS PROBLEM. IT IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM (A SIMPLE GOOGLE SEARCH OR NORTHAMERICANMOTORING SEARCH WILL SHOW THIS). BMW NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING TO PROTECT ITS CUSTOMERS AND EVEN MORE IMPORTANTLY, ITS CUSTOMERS' CHILDREN. *TR ADD PICTURE *121108 CW UPDATED 12/11/08. *JB

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 MINI COOPER S. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CLUTCH ALWAYS EMITTED AN ODOR OF BURNING PLASTIC. THE ENGINE GRADUALLY REVVED WITHIN A 48 HOUR PERIOD. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE CLUTCH FAILED. THE DEALER STATED THAT A NEW CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE INSTALLED AT THE ESTIMATED COST OF $3,300. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 5,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 MINI COOPER S. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, THE ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR BEGAN TO ILLUMINATE AS A LOUD RATTLING NOISE EMITTING FROM THE ENGINE AREA. THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED AND FAILED TO RESTART. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHO WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM OR DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF FAILURE. THE MALFUNCTION CONTINUED TO OCCUR. MOST RECENTLY THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT AUTO SHOP AND THEY STATED THE ENGINE TIMING TENSIONER AND THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED. THE TECHNICIAN ADVISED THE VEHICLE BE TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR REPAIR. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE DEFECT. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

I BURNED MY LOWER FRONT LEG ON THE CHROME TIPPED DUAL EXHAUST PIPES OF OUT 2007 MINI COOPER S (TURBO VERSION). *TR

I OWN A 2007 MINI COOPER S HARDTOP. LAST MAY, WHILE TAKING SOME SHOPPING PACKAGES OUT OF THE BACK ,THROUGH THE HATCH OF MY VEHICLE , I WAS BURNED ON THE SIDE OF MY LEFT CALF BY THE EXHAUST PIPE. A COUPLE OF WEEKS AFTER, IT HAPPENED AGAIN, JUST NOT AS BADLY AS THE FIRST TIME THANKFULLY. THE FIRST BURN DID BLISTER AND TODAY,SEPT.30,2008, I STILL HAVE A MARK ON MY LEG FROM THIS PAINFUL EVENT. *TR

DURING START UP, LOUD VALVE TAPPING NOISE IS HEARD. NOISE PERSISTED DURING MULTIPLE SEGMENT OF THE TRIP WHERE ENGINE WAS SHUT OFF FOR UP TO 30 MIN AND RESTARTED. SUBSEQUENT NOISE WAS NOT AS PROMINENT AS THE INITIAL START UP ON THE SAME DAY. *TR

COMPLAINT FOR DUNLOP RADIAL TUBELESS TIRES, 205145 R17 (84V) SP SPORT 01, RUN FLAT TIRES. I WAS WASHING MY 2007 MINI COOPER S (WITH APPROXIMATELY 8,000 MILES) AND NOTICED THAT THE LEFT FRONT TIRE HAD SEVERE BUBBLING OF THE SIDE WALL. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO HAVE IT REPLACED, EXPLAINING THAT I HAD NOT HAD ANY UNUSUAL IMPACT ON THE TIRE AND THAT IT MUST BE DEFECTIVE. THE DEALERSHIP WAS UNWILLING TO COMPENSATE ME FOR THE TIRE, SAYING THAT I HAD TO GO DIRECTLY TO DUNLOP. I HAD THE TIRE REPLACED ON MARCH 13TH, 2008 BECAUSE I LIVE IN AN AREA WHERE DRIVING IS A NECESSITY AND WAS WORRIED ABOUT THE POSSIBLE OUTCOMES IF I DID NOT REPLACE IT. IT WAS REPLACED AT ASSAEL BMW/MINI OF MONROVIA, CA. LESS THAN THREE WEEKS LATER, I NOTICED YET ANOTHER BUBBLE ON THE NEWLY REPLACED TIRE! AGAIN, THERE WAS NO UNUSUAL IMPACT UPON THE TIRE WALL, NO RUB MARKS, AND NO OBVIOUS DEFECTS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE TIRE. AGAIN, BECAUSE OF SAFETY ISSUES, I AM FORCED TO HAVE THE TIRE REPLACED, BUT AM FILING AN OFFICIAL COMPLAINT FOR EACH TIRE, COSTING APPROXIMATELY $387.00. IN ADDITION, OVER THE PAST TWO YEARS, I HAVE HAD THREE ADDITIONAL DUNLOP BRAND RUN FLAT TIRES REPLACED BECAUSE OF SIDE WALL BALLOONING AT MY EXPENSE. I WOULD ADVISE THAT ALL OWNERS OF THE TIRES DESCRIBED ABOVE CAREFULLY CHECK THEIR TIRES FOR POSSIBLE BALLOONING, AS THIS SEEMS TO BE A RECURRING PROBLEM THAT DUNLOP AND/OR THE DEALERSHIP IS UNWILLING TO ACKNOWLEDGE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 MINI COOPER S. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND OVER-HEATED, CAUSING SMOKE TO EMIT FROM UNDER THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER HOWEVER, THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 11,562 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 53,000.

AREA NEAR THE GAS PEDAL GETS EXTREMELY HOT, AS WELL AS THE WALL TO THE RIGHT OF THE GAS PEDAL. IT'S HOT ENOUGH THAT I CAN'T LEAN A BARE FOOT AGAINST IT.. TOO HOT. THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS AS A DRIVER COULD INADVERTENTLY REST HIS FOOT ON THE WALL, AND BE SURPRISED BY THE EXTREME HEAT, JERK THEIR FOOT AWAY AND POSSIBLE HIT THE GAS PEDAL. *TR

DANGEROUS LEVEL OF HEAT IN THE DRIVER'S FOOTWELL AFTER CAR IS DRIVER FOR A WHILE. *TR

NEW 2007 MINI COOPER S DOES NOT STAY RUNNING IN COLD WEATHER WHEN STARTED. THE CAR HAS TO BE REVVED ABOVE 1000RPM'S FOR 2 MINUTES TO KEEP CAR RUNNING. SO FAR ORIGINAL COMPUTER HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED, A NEW COMPUTER INSTALLED SINCE THE REPROGRAM DIDN'T WORK AND NEW HOSES PLACED THINKING THERE IS AN ICING ISSUE. CAR WAS AT SERVICE CENTER FOR 1 MONTH, TOLD EVERYTHING WAS FIXED AND TESTED, STARTED CAR TWO DAYS LATER AND IT DID EXACTLY THE SAME THING ALL OVER AGAIN, IT DOES NOT STAY RUNNING WHEN COLD. *TR

COLD START RUMBLE/RATTLE/CLATTER FROM ENGINE. INTERMITTENT AND SPORADIC SOUND FROM ENGINE BAY UPON START UP PRIMARILY DURING WINTER MONTHS, SOUND DISAPTES AND GOES AWAY AS CAR WARMS. THE SOUND IS VERY ROUGH CLATTER, SOUNDING LIKE METAL ON METAL - OIL STARVATION ON START UP? I HAVE SERIOUS CONCERNS ON LONG TERM DAMAGE AND COMPROMISE OF THE NORMAL LIFE OF MOTOR - IN OTHER WORDS GETTING SCREWED OUTSIDE OF WARRANTY. THIS IS NOT A SINGLE INCIDENT, BUT AN ONGOING CONDITION. *TR