2002 Subaru Impreza Complaint Log

WAS BRAKING V AFTER DRIVING 20MPH. WHEN WHEEL LOCKED UP, VEHICLE FAILED TO SHIFT INTO 2ND GEAR. HAD VEHICLE TOWED TO DEALERSHIP. MECHANIC INDICATED PROBLEM COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED AND WAS NOT RESOLVED.*AK

GRINDING OF THE GEARS WHEN SHIFTING FROM 3RD-4TH GEAR. STARTED WITH A VERY MILD NOISE, HAS PROGRESSED TO A LOUD GRIND. TOOK IT IN FOR WARRANT SERVICE AND THEY SAID THAT THE DETERMINATION OF WARRANTY COVERAGE WOULD BE MADE BY A REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVE AFTER THE TRANSMISSION WAS REMOVED. I CHECKED ON THE INTERNET AND FOUND THAT MANY OTHER OWNERS WERE EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEM AND BEING DENIED WARRANTY COVERAGE AFTER THE TRANSMISSION WAS REMOVED UNLESS THEY WERE WILLING TO SIGN ONE TIME REPAIR AGREEMENT VOIDING THE REMAINDER OF THE WARRANTY. I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY THE DEALER THAT I WILL PROBABLY BE REQUIRED TO SIGN ONE EVEN THOUGH I HAVE NOT AGREED TO HAVE THE TRANSMISSION REMOVED OR DISSASSEMBLED YET. THEY ARE UNWILLING TO GIVE ME ANY INFORMATION ON THE NUMBER OF SIMILAR REPAIRS THAT HAVE BEEN COVERED OR DENIED UNDER WARRANTY AND WILL NOT GIVE ME ANY OBJECTIVE CRITERIA THAT WILL BE USED TO MAKE THE WARRANTY DETERMINATION.

CONSUMER STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AND WITHOUT WARNING TRANSMISSION GEARS WOULD NOT SHIFT, CAUSING A DISTRACTION TO THE CONSUMER. DEALER NOTIFIED. *AK

GOING OVER A BIG EXPANSION JOINT EXITING FROM THE OUTER LOOP OF I-495 NEAR WASHINGTON, DC TO I-95 SOUTH, I SAW THAT I NEEDED TO BRAKE BECAUSE OF SUDDENLY STOPPING TRAFFIC. I DID NOT GET ANY BRAKING HELP IN MY 2002 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX WAGON AS MY BRAKES SUDDENLY SEEMED GONE, ONLY TO GRIP A MOMENT LATER. VERY SCARY FOR A SHORT TIME.*AK

2002 WRX SUDAN HAD BRAKING POWER REDUCED DUE TO ABS.*AK

CONSUMER CALLED COMPLAINING ABOUT HAVING PROBLEM WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION. DEALER FIXED IT TWICE. LAST WEEK TRANSMISSION BROKE, AND VEHICLE WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY. SO HE HAD TO PAY FOR THIS. VEHICLE ONLY HAD 37616 MILES. *AK

DIFFERENTIAL FLUID OUT; SUBARU BLAMES A NON-DEALER OIL CHANGE ERROR FOR PROBLEM HENCE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. OWNER HAD TO SPEND OVER $350 FOR REPLACEMENT AUTO RENTAL. OWNER DROVE CAR FOR 1,700 MILES AFTER DISPUTED NON-DEALER OIL CHANGE TO DATE WHEN DIFFERENTIAL FLUID OUTAGE DISCOVERED.

PROBLEMS WITH ABS ACTIVATION - RIGHT CONDITIONS (BRAKE ACTIVATION FOLLOWED BY BUMP ON SMOOTH SURFACE) RESULTS IN SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED BRAKING EFFORT - ABS ACTS LIKE IT IS CONFUSED AND BRAKE PEDAL DROPS TO FLOOR. REPRODUCIBLE AT A PARTICULAR INTERSECTION WITH BOTH OUR WRX'S. MULTIPLE EVENTS WITH DIFFERENT TIRES ON VEHICLE. *LA

PROBLEMS WITH ABS ACTIVATION - RIGHT CONDITIONS ( BRAKE ACTIVATION FOLLOWED BY BUMP ON SMOOTH SURFACE) RESULTS IN SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED BRAKING EFFORT - ABS ACTS LIKE IT IS CONFUSED AND BRAKE PEDAL DROPS TO FLOOR. REPRODUCIBLE AT A PARTICULAR INTERSECTION WITH BOTH OUR WRX'S. MULTIPLE EVENTS WITH DIFFERENT TIRES ON VEHICLE. *LA

TRAVELLING AT A LOW SPEED (UNDER25) AND BRAKING WHILE DRIVING OVER SMALL BUMPS IN THE ROAD: PEDAL DROPS NEARLY TO THE FLOOR, NO TYPICAL ABS PULSING, CAR FEELS AS IF IT'S JUST ROLLING STRAIGHT AHEAD WITH NO BRAKE CONTROL, AND NO MATTER HOW MUCH PRESSURE IS APPLIED, IT DOESN'T FEEL AS IF IT IS STOPPING ANY FASTER.*AK

MY ANTILOCK BRAKES GO OFF WHEN I AM BRAKING (AT ANY SPEED) OVER A BUMPY ROAD. WORSE, AT TIMES WHEN I HAVE ENOUGH FORWARD MOMENTUM GOING, WHEN THE ABS GOES OFF, THE PEDAL GOES TO THE FLOOR AND I LOSE ALL BRAKING ABILITY. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I WAS GOING MAYBE 20 MPH ON A BUSY (STRIP MALL) ROAD, AND ALMOST REAR ENDED THE WOMAN WHO'D BRAKED IN FRONT OF ME TO LET SOMEONE TURN. I HAD TO LET GO OF THE PEDAL COMPLETELY AND RE-HIT THE BRAKES AND PUMP THEM TO GET IT TO STOP, AND I NARROWLY MISSED HER. NOW, I HAVE TO PUMP THE BRAKES WHEN I MUST STOP SHORT (SINCE THE ROADS THESE DAYS ARE WAVY FROM WHATEVER ASPHALT THEY'RE USING, IT'S RARE TO FIND A FLAT ONE). I DON'T BOTHER STOPPING AT YELLOW LIGHTS ANYMORE UNLESS I'M DECELERATING, AND I HAVE TO DRIVE VERY CAREFULLY ON BUMPY ROADS SINCE I KNOW I WON'T BE ABLE TO STOP. IT'S NOT A GOOD THING. I WAS NOT AWARE THAT I COULD MAKE A COMPLAINT UNTIL I READ SIMILAR STORIES IN A FORUM, SO NOW I AM DOING IT. I CAN REPLICATE THE ABS GOING OFF OVER BUMPS AT VERY LOW SPEEDS, FAITHFULLY, BY MY HOUSE. THE PEDAL THING DOESN'T HAPPEN THERE, BECAUSE I'M NOT GOING FAST ENOUGH, BUT THE ABS GOES OFF EVEN WHEN I'M GOING 5 MPH. I DRIVE A 2001 SUBARU WRX. THANKS, KATIE (THE DATE IS APPROXIMATE)

WHILE COMING TO A STOP AT ABOUT 30-35 MPH, THE BRAKES STOPPED WORKING FOR ABOUT 1-2 SECONDS. AT THE SAME TIME, THE FEEL OF THE BRAKE PEDAL SEEMED TO INDICATE THAT THE ABS SYSTEM HAD BEEN ACTIVATED. CAN'T RECALL IF THIS WAS OVER A BUMPY ROAD AS MENTIONED IN EARLIER COMPLAINTS. HAS OCCURRED AT LEAST TWICE - VERY SCARY AND DANGEROUS.

VEHICLE IS A SUBARU IMPREZA 2002 EQUIPT WITH BRIDGESTONE POTENZA RE92 16"TIRES. HIS WEEK AT APPROXIMATELY 10,500 MILES 2 OF THESE TIRES DEVELOPED A PINHOLE LEAK IN THE CENTER OF THE SIDEWALL APPROXIMATELY A WEEK APART. THE LEAK WAS SO TINY THAT IT WAS HARD TO FIND. A CALL TO A MAJOR BRIDGESTONE DISTRIBUTOR ABOUT THIS PROBLEM WAS NOT PRODUCTIVE. THEY SAID THEY HAVE NO RECORD OF SUCH A PROBLEM. I HAVE NEVER SEEN THIS IN ANY PREVIOUS TIRES THAT I HAVE USED. CAN YOU SHED ANY LIGHT ON THIS SUBJECT?? THOUGHT IT STRANGE THAT 2 DIFFERENT TIRES OF THE SAME BRAND WOULD HAVE THE SAME DEFECT ABOUT A WEEK APART. THANK YOU.*AK

I HAVE A 2002 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX, AND I CAN SMELL FUEL ODOR IN MY VEHICLE AT COLD TEMPERATURES. I PURCHASED THE CAR WITHIN 4 WEEKS OF THE NORTH AMERICAN RELEASE OF THE VEHICLE.*AK

ABS ACTIVATING FOR NO REASON ON ROUGH SURFACE (GRAVEL COVERED ROADWAY) CAUSING BRAKING DISTANCE TO INCREASE SIGNIFICANTLY...NOT THE FIRST TIME EITHER. NOT HARD BRAKING, JUST ONE ON AN UNEVEN SURFACE.*AK

ABS FAILED RESULTING IN CAR CRASH. TS

NO SUMMARY. DT

JUST LEARNED THAT MY 2002 IMPREZA SPORT HAS A LEAKING HEAD GASKET WHEN THE CAR ONLY HAS 72,000 ON IT. THE CAR HAS NEVER GOTTEN OVER 23 MILES PER GALLON, EVEN WHEN IT IS HIGHWAY DRIVEN. THE CAR HAS HAD VERY VERY LITTLE MILEAGE ON IT SINCE IT WAS PURCHASED THREE YEARS AGO WITH 55,000 ON IT. NO MENTION OF ANY PROBLEMS DURING ITS 60,000 MILE MAINTENANCE. THIS CAME OUT OF THE BLUE. *TR

WINDSHIELD WAS CRACKED ON THE HIGHWAY WHILE DRIVING AT NORMAL SPEED. HEARD A TINY PEEBLE HIT THE WINDSHIELD AND LATER FOUND OUT THAT THE WINDSHIELD WAS CRACKED. DT

NO DESCRIPTION GIVEN. NLM

SMALL CRACK 2 INCHES FORMED ON FRONT WINDSHIELD DIRECTLY BEHIND REAR VIEW MIRROR. I HAVE APPT. TO SERVICE @ SUBARU HOPEFULLY ITS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE IT LOOKS LIKE FACTORY DEFECT. I HEARD OF OTHER CAR OWNERS WITH SAME PROBLEM. SUBARU SHOULD REALLY LOOK INTO IT HAVE RECALL. NO PEBBLES OR OBJECT OF ANY KIND HAVE NOT STRUCK WINDSHIELD. YOU CAN SEE CRACK STARTING FROM THE VERY TOP OF CENTER OF WINDSHIELD. THANK YOU!*AK

MY CAR IS A TOTAL LEMON. I PRE-ORDERED THE 2002 WRX IN 2001 AND WAS VERY ANXIOUS TO RECEIVE IT. AS SOON AS I GOT THE CAR THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS A CAM POSITION SENSOR WICH THEY REPLACED 3 TIMES. THEY TOLD ME I REVVED THE CAR TOO HIGH TO THROW THE CODE. THE CODE WAS THROWN AT 6200 RPM AND THE ENGINE REDLINES AT 7000. THE DEALERSHIP REFUSED TO WORK ON THIS PROBLEM AFTER THE 3RD TIME. AT 45000 MILES MY CAR BEGAN TO MISS AND NOT RUN CORRECTLY. THE DEALERSHIP COULD NOT FIND ANY PROBLEM WITH IT. I TOOK IT TO ANOTHER SHOP TO GET A 2ND OPINION. THEY FOUND THAT THE CAM POSITION SENSOR HAD MALFUNCTIONED AND CAUSED MY CAR TO MISSFIRE WHEN I WOULD HIT A BUMP IN THE ROAD. THEY REPLACED THE SENSOR AND CHARGED ME A FEE OF $800 DUE TO THE MASSIVE TROUBLESHOOTING WORK THAT LED UP TO SOLVING THE PROBLEM. FINALLY THE PROBLEM THAT I HAD SINCE THE CAR WAS BRAND NEW WAS FIXED AT THE FULL COST TO ME. AT 48000 MY TRANSMISSION WAS THE NEXT TO GO. I LOST THE ABILITY TO SHIFT MY CAR IN ANY GEAR. I HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AS THE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY IS 60000 MILES. THEY DISMANTLED MY TRANSMISSION TO FIND 2ND GEAR STRIPPED. THEY THEN DENIED TO COVER THIS UNDER WARRANTY AS IT WAS LABELED ABUSE. THEY CHARGED ME $800 DOLLARS FOR THEIR TIME. THEN THEN GAVE ME A QUOTE FOR $4500 EXTRA DOLLARS TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION. I HAD MY CAR TOWED TO THE SAME SHOP THAT FIXED MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. THEY INSTALLED A NEW TRANSMISSION FOR ME AT THE COST OF $2200. MY TRANSMISSON HAS ALSO BROKE AGAIN AT 65000 MILES. NOW I HAVE A CAR THAT DOESN'T RUN THAT I AM PAYING ON. I CAN NOT SELL A CAR THAT DOESN'T RUN. SUBARU DOES NOT CARE THAT THEIR CARS ARE JUNK. I REALLY DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO NOW.

RANDOMLY WHILE MODERATELY BRAKING ON DRY NORMAL TEXTURED PAVEMENT ABS SYSTEM WILL ENGAGE, THIS CAUSES A MAJOR AND DANGEROUS LOSS OF BRAKING POWER AND PEDAL PRESSURE. IN ORDER TO RESTORE SOME BRAKING POWER THE BRAKE PEDAL MUST BE DISENGAGED COMPLETELY AND THEN HAVE PRESSURE REAPPLIED. THIS WILL RESULT IN ABOUT 3/4 OF THE NORMAL BRAKING POWER. IF THE ABS ENGAGES AGAIN THE PROCESS MUST BE REPEATED. THIS ENTIRE PROCESS CAUSES BRAKING DISTANCE TO SUBSTANTIALLY INCREASE FROM THE EXPECTED AMOUNT.*AK

NEW 2002 IMPREZA WRX RECEIVED CRACKED WINDSHIELD BY A SMALL PEBBLE WHILE DRIVING. THE CRACK HAS SPIDERED ACROSS MY WHOLE FRONT WINDSHIELD. SUBARU DEALERSHIP DOESN'T COVER THIS ON ITS WARRANTIES.*AK

WHEN MOVING FROM A STOP HAS TO PRESS AND HOLD GAS PEDAL FOR AT LEAST 5 SECONDS BEFORE VEHICLE WILL ACCELERATE. IT THEN WILL JERK FORWARD AND ACCELERATE AT A HIGH SPEED. VEHICLE HAS BEEN CHECKED BY DEALER.*AK

THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME SLOWED DOWN SO I TRIED TO DISENGAGE THE CRUISE CONTROL WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL LEVER. MY GOAL WAS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN HOWEVER IT WAS NOT WORKING FAST ENOUGH SO I PUSHED ON THE BRAKES. I WAS UNABLE TO PUSH ON THE BRAKE BECAUSE IT FELT LIKE A CEMENT BLOCK. MY CRUISE CONTROL DID NOT DISENGAGE FORCING ME TO PULL OVER ONTO THE SHOULDER WHERE I WAS STILL UNABLE TO COME TO AN IMMEDIATE STOP. FINALLY I PUSHED IN THE CLUTCH WHICH HELPED TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN BUT THE BRAKES STILL FELT VERY STIFF. I BELIEVE THIS WAS A PROBLEM THAT WAS CREATED DUE TO MY USING THE CRUISE CONROL. THE CAR WAS TAKEN TO OUR MECHANIC WHO COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. I BELIEVE, HOWEVER, THAT A TEMPORARY MALFUNCTION OCCURED THAT CAUSED THE CRUISE CONTROL TO FAIL TO DISENGAGE.*AK

TRAVELING ALONG A STRAIGHT, DRY, PAVED ROAD. SPEED APPROX 50MPH. ENCOUNTERED A SITUATION REQUIRING AGGRESSIVE BRAKING (APPROX 75-80%). WHILE BRAKING, CAR CROSSED A SMALL BUMP, ABS ENGAGED FOR AN EXTENDED TIME AND BRAKING POWER WAS ALMOST COMPLETELY LOST. SEVERAL CAR LENGTHS LATER (ROAD FREE FROM IMPERFECTIONS NOW), ABS WAS STILL MODULATING AND THERE WAS STILL VIRTUALLY NO BRAKING POWER. DISTANCE REQUIRED TO STOP WAS *MUCH* LONGER THAN IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN. PROBLEM HAS ALSO OCCURED X2 AT LOW SPEED, NEARING A STOP SIGN, HIT A POTHOLE....LOST BRAKING UNTIL ABSOLUTE LAST SECOND, BARELY STOPPED IN TIME. SEEMS AS THOUGH ABS UNIT IS CONFUSED, AS IF THE WHEELS WITH TRACTION ARE BEING MODULATED WHILE THE TIRE THAT HIT THE BUMP AND HAS POOR TRACTION (POSSIBLY AIRBORNE MOMENTARILY?) IS GETTING BRAKING POWER, THUS RENDERING THE CAR WITH LITTLE STOPPING ABILITY AT ALL. VERY DANGEROUS, I WAS LUCKY IT WAS NOT AN ANIMAL/CHILD/CAR THAT I WAS TRYING TO AVOID. DEFINITELY DANGEROUS, AND NOT NORMAL ABS OPERATION.

OTHER SUBARUS HAVE CRACKS IN WINDSHIELD REF#763477. *AK

CRACK IN WINDSHIELD THAT APPEARS TO BE A FLAW IN FACTORY GLASS. *AK

AS I WAS PROCEEDING DOWN A LOCAL INTERSTATE, A VERY SMALL PEBBLE CAME FROM A TRUCK AND PRODUCED A VERY SMALL DING IN MY WINDSHIELD. TWO DAYS LATER, THE DING BECAME A VERY LARGE CRACK. I CONTACTED A WORLDWIDE CAR CLUB FOR MY PARTICULAR VEHICLE, AND LEARNED THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE. I ONLY WANT THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY.*AK

WINDSHIELD HIT BY ROCK ,CAUSING DIME-SIZED STAR FRACTURE, EXTREME CRACKING ACROSS WINDSHIELD ENSUED ALMOST IMMEDIATELY BEFORE RESIN COULD BE APPLIED. THIN WINDSHIELD. *AK

NHTSA ACTION NUMBER : PE03029, COMPONENT : SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK I HAVE HAD THIS HAPPEN TO ME SEVERAL TIMES. THE DATE INCLUDED IS NOT ACCURATE, BUT I HAD TO GIVE ONE. I NOTICED ON THESE 8 (OR MORE) OCCASSIONS THAT IF I BRAKE HARD (ABS NOT ON) THAT THE CAR IS FINE. BUT, IF I HIT A SURFACE WERE THE FRONT TIRE(S) LOSE TRACTION OR HIT A BUMP THE BRAKE RELEASE AND THEN THE ABS WILL KICK IN FOR A VERY SHORT DISTANCE. THE SURFACES INCLUDE, POTHOLES, UNEVEN SURFACE MANHOLE COVERS, PAINTED TRAFFIC LINES, ROAD CRACKS. I DID NOTICE THAT ON ONE OCASSION WHEN THE BRAKES RELEASE THE BRAKE PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR. THIS WAS WHILE BRAKING GOING DOWN HILL MY FRONT RIGHT TIRE WENT OVER A RECESSED MANHOLE COVER. I CAME WITHIN 3 FEET OF HITTING A CAR IN FRONT OF ME. I CAN NAME THE CITY AND STREET WHERE THIS HAPPENED. AND, I CAN REPEAT THE OCCURRENCE WITH ALMOST 90% ACCURANCY AT THIS SPOT IF NEED BE. *AK

I WAS GOING TO OLYMPUS GYM IN SPRINGFIELD, VA, PULLING INTO THE FAR END OF THE PARKING LOT (THE LOT IS EMPTY). THE LOT WAS CLEAN, DRY ASPHALT WITH A COUPLE OF ROCKS SCATTERED ON IT (CLUE?). I PULL IN QUICK TO THE LOT (A RIGHT TURN FROM THE STREET 90 DEGREES) DON'T KNOW HOW FAST BUT NOT WORRISOME. THEN PULL A 180 DEGREE LEFT TURN TO COME INTO THE PARKING SPACE BRAKING FAIRLY HARD AS I GO. KEEPING ON THE BRAKES I THINK I'LL COME TO A STOP, BUT, THE ABS ACTIVATES WITH 7 FEET LEFT IN THE SPOT. STAYS RELEASED ALL THE WAY TO THE END WHERE I BUMP INTO THE POLE AT THE END OF THE SPOT MARKING MY BUMPER BADLY. I DID NOT EVEN TRY TO COME OFF THE BRAKES AND BACK ON TO RESET (I SHOULD HAVE). I JUST HELD THE BRAKE PRAYING THEY WOULD COME BACK. WHEN THE ABS ACTIVATED, MY HEAD JERKED BACK INTO THE HEAD REST AND STAYED THERE (AT LEAST HALF A SECOND) UNTIL I HIT THE POLE. THE ABS RELEASED THE BRAKES (ALL FOUR) AND LEFT THEM RELEASED. *AK

I PULLED INTO A DRIVEWAY TO MAKE A U-TURN. THERE WAS A SLIGHT BUMP (ABOUT HALF THE HEIGHT OF A SPEED BUMP) AT THE START OF THE DRIVEWAY. I GUESS THE BUMP ACTIVATED THE ABS BECAUSE AFTER I CAME TO A FULL STOP THE PEDAL WENT HALF WAY TO THE FLOOR. THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE BEFORE, DRIVING AT 20 MPH AND ABOUT 40 MPH AND MODERATELY BRAKING ON BUMPY SURFACES. THE ABS KICK IN AND IT FEEL LIKE THE CAR ISN'T SLOWING AT ALL. I HAVE TO RELEASE THE BRAKE AND APPLY IT AGAIN TO STOP. ALL INCIDENTS WERE ON DRY ROADS.*AK

WINDSHIELD EXPERIENCED AN UNEXPLAINED CRACK STARTING ABOVE THE REAR VIEW MIRROR, GOING DOWN ABOUT 5 INCHES THEN VERING TOWARDS THE DRIVERS SIDE. TOTAL LENGTH OF ABOUT 2 FEET. NO ROCK CHIP OF ANY KIND WERE FOUND ON MY WINDSHIELD AND DEALER REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. HOWEVER HEARING FROM OTHER OWNERS OF THIS CAR MODEL, THIS IS SEEMING TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM. THE CRACK IS NEARLY IDENTICAL ON ALL THE CARS. OTHER PEOPLE ARE NOT HAVING THE LUCK I HAD IN GETTING IT REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. *AK

VEHICLE'S ABS CONTROLLER WENT BAD, ABS WAS GETTING ACTIVATED EVER IN A DRY NON SLIP CONDITION, CONTACTED DEALER, AND THEY REPLACED THE ABS CONTROLLER. REPORTED PROBLEM ABOUT ENGINE VIBRATION AT IDLE SPEED, DEALER REFUSES TO ACCEPT IT, COMPARED WITH A NEW VEHICLE AT DEALER'S STOCK AND THE VIBRATION IN MY VEHICLE WAS DISTINGUISHABLE. STILL DEALER REFUSES TO ACCEPT IT. CONTACTED 1-800-SUBARU3 AND THEY SAID THAT THEY WOUL DGET IN TOUCH WITH THE DEALERSHIP AND SEE WHATS GOING ON.*AK

NO SUMMARY LISTED FOR ABOVE VEHICLE. *AK

THE ABS ENGAGES PREMATURELY ON ROUGH PAVENT, EXPANSION JOINTS, ETC. ONCE IT ENGAGES, THE BRAKE PEDAL DROPS TO THE FLOOR AND THE CAR LOSES ALL BRAKING POWER FOR SEVERAL SECONDS.*AK

WHEN BRAKING HARD, IF A SMALL BUMP IS ENCOUNTERED ABS WILL OFTEN ACTIVATE AND FAIL CAUSING LOSS OF STOPPING POWER. RELEASING THE BRAKE AND RE-APPLYING WILL RESTORE STOPPING POWER BUT NOT BEFORE GIVING THE DRIVER A GOOD SCARE. I HAVE NOT HIT ANYTHING YET BUT I HAVE HAD SEVERAL CLOSE CALLS, EVEN TAKING TO THE GRASS TO AVOID A COLLISION. DEALER COULD NOT REPLICATE. *TS *JB ****DIMSII IVOQ ENTRY POSTED AFTER 12-12-02 CUT OVER TO ARTEMIS****761464

WINDSHIELD CRACKED IN SAME PLACE & SHAPE AS NUMEROUS OTHER 2002 SUBARU WINDSHIELDS. *AK

THE CLUTCH SHUDDERS AND SLIPS HORRIBLY ON COLD STARTS IN 1ST GEAR. THE WHOLE CAR WILL SHAKE DUE TO HOW HORRIBLE IT IS. STOPS SHUDDERING AFTER 15 MINS OF STOP AND GO. DEALER SAID IT IS NORMAL AND MANY CUSTOMERS COMPLAIN, BUT THAT IS THE WAY THE SUBARU CLUTCH BEHAVES. -- BTW: THIS SITE DOES NOT SEEM TO SHOW ANYWHERE NEAR THE AMOUNT OF CLUTCH SHUDDER ISSUES I HAVE HEARD OF, AND IT SEEMS THAT SOME PEOPLE HAVE POSTED CLUTCH SHUDDER ISSUES UNDER THE WRONG PART DEFECT.*AK

WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES ON BUMPY ROADS, THE ABS GETS TRIGGERED AND THE BRAKE SYSTEM LOSES ALL HYDRAULIC PRESSURE AND BRAKE POWER IS COMPLETELY LOST. *NLM

WHEN APPLYING BRAKES LOST ALL BRAKE COMPRESSION AND PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR.*AKVEHICLE WAS BRAKING FINE UNTIL CONSUMER LOST COMPRESSION AFTER HITTING A ROUGH SURFACE ON THE ROAD. *JG

ABS FAILS AFTER GOING OVER MINOR BUMPS AND ALL PRESSURE IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM IS LOST SOON AFTER. DRIVER MUST COMPLETELY DISENGAGE BRAKE AND THEN REAPPLY TO BEGIN SLOWING DOWN AGAIN.*AK

WHEN BRAKING OVER BUMPS OR POTHOLES, ABS SYSTEM "FAILS" CAUSING NEAR-ZERO BRAKING ABILITY AND MUCH LONGER STOPPING DISTANCES. REPEATABLE AND DANGEROUS!*AK

WHILE APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT THAT WAS TURNING YELLOW, ROAD WAS SLIGHTLY BUMPY, CONSUMER FELT ABS PULSATING. AS THIS HAPPENED, BRAKE PEDAL WENT TO FLOOR AND PULSATING STOPPED, HOWEVER VEHICLE DID NOT SLOW DOWN. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 4 TIMES. CONSUMER WAS CONCERNED BECAUSE DEALER COULD NOT DUPLICATE PROBLEM. *AK *SLC

WHEN APPLYING BRAKES WHILE GOING OVER A BUMP AT 25 MPH OR LESS CONSUMER CAN TELL ABS SYSTEM KICKS IN, BUT BRAKE PEDAL GOES TO THE FLOOR, NO BRAKING ABILITY FOR A FEW SCONDS. THIS HAPPENS INTERMITTENTLY. DEALER STATED THERE WAS NOTHING HE COULD DO.*AK

CONSUMER STATE OF HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE TRANSMISSION. DEALER WAS CONTACTED, THIS PROBLEM WAS INITIALLY REPORTED WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS ONLY 4 MONTHS OLD, THE PROBLEMS INCLUDED GRINDING SOUNDS BETWEEN FIRST AND SECOND GEARS, CLUTCH NOISE, AND TRANSMISSION POPPING OUT OF GEAR WHEN GOING DOWNHILL, WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS 10 MONTHS OLD THE GEAR TEETH ON FIRST GEAR FAILED, THE DEALER REFUSED TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE UNDER WARRANTY. MR *NLM

ABS FAILURE - UPON DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL ON UNEVEN PAVEMENT, THE BRAKE PEDAL DROPS TO THE FLOW WITH NO APPARENT BRAKE PRESSURE BUT OCCASIONAL ABS PULSATION. CONTACTED SUBARU TO SEE IF IT WAS A KNOWN ISSUE AND WAS TOLD BY SOA THAT THERE WERE NO PREVIOUS REPORTS OF THIS ISSUE AND NO FACTORY ISSUE. SEE ALSO ... HTTP://WWW.I-CLUB.COM/FORUMS/SHOWTHREAD.PHP?S=&THREADID=102893&PERPAGE=40&PAGENUMBER=1. *AK

APPROACHING A TOLL-BOOTH I BEGAN BRAKING MODERATELY FROM ROUGHLY 45MPH. AT ABOUT 15MPH I WENT OVER SOME BROKEN PAVEMENT WITH SMALL POCK MARKS. THE PEDAL IMMEDIATELY WENT TO THE FLOOR, OR THEREABOUTS, AND A SIGNIFICANT LOSS OF BRAKING POWER OCCURRED. UPON RELEASING THE BRAKE AND REENGAGING THE VEHICLE'S BRAKES, THE BRAKES OPERATELY PROPERLY AND STOPPED THE CAR. BY THE TIME I STOPPED, HOWEVER, I WAS ALREADY 20 FEET BEYOND THE TOLLBOOTH. THANK GOD THERE WAS NOT A CAR IN FRONT OF ME. I HAVE ALSO BEEN ABLE TO REPEAT THIS SCENARIO NUMEROUS TIMES OVER ROUGH, DRY PAVEMENT WITH LIGHT TO MODERATE BRAKING. THE BUMPS SEEM TO CONFUSE THE ABS.(?) I BROUGHT THE CAR INTO MARIN SUBARU, WHO CONFIRMED A BRAKE HYDRAULIC FAILURE AND REPLACE THE OFFENDING PARTS.*AK