2016 Subaru Outback Complaint Log

IN FEBRUARY 2019 I HAD TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK BECAUSE OF A CRACK THAT STARTED FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE EDGE FROM A VERY TINY CHIP, AND PAID ABOUT $950 (OEM EQUIPMENT AND DUE TO THE EYESIGHT SYSTEM CALIBRATION REQUIRED). ON FEBRUARY 29, 2020, I DISCOVERED A CRACK IN THE NEW WINDSHIELD, IN A SIMILAR PLACE (PASSENGER SIDE, TINY CHIP AT THE EVERY EDGE (BLACK PART OF WINDSHIELD), THAT THEN EXTENDED HALF WAY ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. I COULD NOT REMEMBER ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD TO CAUSE THE TINY CHIP, AND IT REALLY WAS TINY AND VERY SHALLOW. THE CAR HAD BEEN PARKED ALL DAY IN A SAFE, SECURE AREA. THE CRACK WAS NOT THERE IN THE MORNING WHEN I PARKED THE CAR, BUT WAS THERE BY THE END OF THE DAY. PHOTO ATTACHED. IT DOES NOT SEEM REASONABLE TO HAVE TO REPLACE A WINDSHIELD ANNUALLY! SUBARU HAS A PROBLEM WITH THEIR WINDSHIELDS!

THIS IS THE 2ND WINDOW THAT HAS HAD TO BE REPLACED IN 2 1/2 YEARS. IT APPEARED TO CRACK SPONTANEOUSLY. *TR

HOOD UNLATCHES UNEXPECTEDLY. THIS HAS PROBABLY OCCURED A HALF DOZED TIMES OR SO IN THE LAST YEAR. JUST YESTERDAY DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE IT UNLATCHED. FORTUNATELY THE SAFETY LATCH DIDN'T RELEASE, BUT THAT COULD CERTAINLY HAPPEN ESPECIALLY WITH THE WIND PRESSURE FROM DRIVING AT INTERSTATE SPEEDS.

SINCE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED, THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY DOES NOT REMAIN CHARGED IF THE CAR IS NOT STARTED FOR A PERIOD LONGER THAN TWO DAYS. THE VEHICLE IS ONLY FOUR YEARS OLD WITH 50,000 MILES AND THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES. THIS HAS CAUSED THE VEHICLE OWNER TO BE STRANDED WHILE AWAY FROM HOME, WHICH COULD HAVE LED TO UNSAFE CONDITIONS.

WHEN THE CAR IS STARTED UP ON A COLD MORNING IT IDLES TOO FAST AND LURCHES DANGEROUSLY WHEN PUT INTO DRIVE. I HAVE TO HOLD THE CAR BACK WITH FIRM BRAKING. I HAVE HAD NUMEROUS CLOSE CALLS OVER THE LAST FOUR YEARS THAT I HAVE OWNED THE CAR. THE CAR IS A 2016 OUTBACK 3.6 R WITH A 6 CYLINDER ENGINE.

BATTERY DIED AFTER DRIVING 10 MILES AND PARKING FOR AN HOUR. COULDN'T MOVE SHIFT LEVER OR RELEASE ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE. SOMEONE FINALLY JUMPED THE CAR FOR ME Y AND I IMMEDIATELY BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY (BATTERY $151.19 AND JUMPER CABLES 26.99 AT PEPBOYS, DBPOWER JUMPSTARTER 74.59 AT AMAZON). 3 MONTHS LATER THE SAME THING HAPPENED AFTER BEING IN THE GARAGE OVERNIGHT. NO LIGHTS WERE LEFT ON OR ANY OBVIOUS SOURCE OF ELECTRICAL DRAIN. I COULD HAVE BEEN STRANDED SOMEWHERE. *TR

WINDSHIELD CRACKED IN L SHAPE . ON DAY AFTER SNOW FALL. WHEN CLEARED THERE WAS THE CRACK

I HAVE A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK, WHICH I'VE OWNED SINCE NEW (09/15/2015). I'VE HAD TO REPLACE 8 WINDSHIELD SO FAR, SOMETIMES WITHIN 3 MONTHS, OR EVEN 2 DAYS APART. I DRIVE AROUND SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA (NOT STATISTICALLY HIGHER RISK FOR WINDSHIELD DAMAGE) THIS CONSTANT ISSUE WITH THE WINDSHIELD AFFECTS THE SAFETY OF THE CAR IN CASE OF FOREIGN OBJECT IMPACT OR SPONTANEOUS CRACKING, BECAUSE OF REDUCED VISIBILITY AND COMPROMISED STRUCTURAL/IMPACT PROTECTION

ONCE PARKING THE VEHICLE AND PLACING IT IN PARK, THE KEY STAYS LOCKED IN THE IGNITION. THIS ISN'T RELATED TO THE STEERING WHEEL BEING LOCKED IN PLACE, THE KEY IS STUCK. SHIFTING IN/OUT OF PARK NEEDS TO HAPPEN MULTIPLE TIMES. LOOKING INTO THIS ONLINE, THERE ARE MULTIPLE REPORTS OF THIS HAPPENING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE WE ARE UNABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR WITH OUR KIDS BECAUSE THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION.

REPEATED DRAINED BATTERY FROM MULTIPLE SHORT DRIVES

CRACK IN WINDSHIELD DIRECTLY BEHIND THE REARVIEW MIRROR HORIZONTALLY AND VERTICALLY WITH NO VISIBLE SIGNS OF IMPACT, FOUND ONE GETTING INTO THE CAR WHICH WAS IN OUR GARAGE

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that on multiple occasions, her vehicle would fail to start up without warning. The contact had taken her vehicle to the dealer numerous times and had several battery replacements performed; despite each replacement, the failure persisted. The manufacturer had yet to be notified of the failure. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 12,000.

MY OUTBACK HAS AROUND 42,000 MILES ON IT. I AM HAVING TROUBLE GETTING THE KEY TO COME OUT OF THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING IT IN PARK. SO FAR ABOUT HALF THE TIME I TURN THE CAR OFF I NEED TO SHIFT IT INTO REVERSE AND THEN JAM IT BACK INTO PARK IN ORDER FOR IT TO UNLOCK THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION.

CAN NOT REMOVE KEY WHEN IN PARK!! LEAVES ME STRANDED..HAVE TO KEEP TRYING VARIOUS METHODS TO TURN CAR OFF AND REMOVE KEY!! THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.. HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS AS WELL ON LINE.

THE CVT TRANSMISSION FAILED AT 79K MILES AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS CAUSING THE CAR TO VIOLENTLY STALL. WE BARELY AVOIDED HITTING THE CARS AROUND US TRYING TO PULL OVER. LUCKILY THERE WAS NO CAR TO REAR END US. WE WERE VERY LUCKY THE TRAFFIC WAS LIGHT. THESE TRANSMISSIONS ARE DEFECTIVE AND WHEN THEY FAIL, THEY FAIL IN A SPECTACULAR MANNER CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO VIOLENTLY JERK AND STALL, A TRAUMATIC EVENT EQUIVALENT TO JUMPING ON THE BREAKS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND WILL CAUSE PEOPLE TO DIE IN CRASHES. SUBARU NEEDS TO RECALL EVERY SINGLE CVT AND STOP PUTTING THEM IN NEW CARS. EXTENDING THE WARRANTY IS INSUFFICIENT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 70-75 MPH IN THE RAIN, THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY ACCELERATED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO REMEMBER WHAT WAS DONE TO SLOW AND STOP THE VEHICLE. THE LOCAL DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

CRACKED WINDSHIELD. STARTING @ BOTTOM CENTER UP 8" THEN 6" TO RIGHT.

IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK EVERYTIME AND I HAVE TO JAM IT INTO PARK TO GE IT OUT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A FRACTURE WAS EVIDENT ON THE WINDSHIELD BY THE REAR VIEW MIRROR IN THE MIDDLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRACTURE WAS HORIZONTAL OF WHERE THE REARVIEW MIRROR WAS ATTACHED. MICHAEL'S SUBARU OF BELLEVUE (15150 SE EASTGATE WAY, BELLEVUE, WA 98007 (425) 641-2002) OFFERED FOR THE CONTACT TO HAVE THE VEHICLE TAKEN TO DEALER FOR A DIAGNOSIS AND INSPECTION. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED NOR INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INSURANCE COMPANY WOULD BE MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE IF THE MANUFACTURER FAILED TO ASSIST IN HAVING THE VEHICLE REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

MY 2016 OUTBACK WILL HAVE A "GHOST SLIDE" WHEN ON ICE. IT SEEMS TO BE WORSE WHEN THE ROADS ARE ONLY PARTIALLY ICY. THE BACK END FEELS LIKE IT WILL SLIP OUT AND THE CAR WILL FEEL LIKE IT IS LOSING CONTROL. THIS IS MY 3RD SUBARU AND THE ONLY ONE WE HAVE HAD ISSUES WITH. I HAVE HAD IT INTO A SHOP (NOT A SUBARU DEALER) AND THEY CANNOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. I CALLED SUBARU AND THEY TOLD ME I HAVE ICE BUILD UP! THAT IS NOT IT! I CALLED THEM AGAIN THIS WEEK AND THEY SAID THEY DON'T HAVE A RECALL NOTICE FOR MY ISSUE. THIS CAR IS GREAT FOR SAFETY AND DRIVING 95% OF THE TIME SO IT IS DANGEROUS TO HIT A PATCH OF ICE AND HAVE IT SLIDE. IT IS REALLY BAD WHEN THEY ROADS HAVE STARTED TO MELT AND YOU HAVE PARTIAL PAVEMENT AND PARTIAL ICE. I PUT THE DATE DOWN OF THE LAST OCCURRENCE BUT IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR 4 WINTERS.

TWICE SINCE NOVEMBER,'19 AND MOST RECENTLY ON 3/14/2020, WHEN STOPPED AT AN INTERSECTION, WITH FOOT ON BRAKE, THE ENGINE REVVED UP WILDLY. THEN, IN BOTH INCIDENTS I ATTEMPTED TO PUT CAR IN NEUTRAL. GEARSHIFT WOULD NOT MOVE. I HAD TO TURN ENGINE OFF. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPT I WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE CAR. I THOUGHT THE FIRST INCIDENT WAS A FLUKE. BUT AFTER YESTERDAY'S (MARCH 14 '20) INCIDENT, IN WHICH I NARROWLY AVOIDED A CRASH, I BELIEVE SUBARU AND, IF NEED BE, THE GOVERNMENT, SHOULD ADDRESS THIS SAFETY ISSUE. PLEASE DO NOT EXCUSE THESE INCIDENTS WITH "YOUR FOOT WAS ON THE ACCELERATOR AND BRAKE AT THE SAME TIME. THIS NOT WHAT HAPPENED.

HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY. WHEN YOU PULL INTO A PARKING SPOT AND PUT THE CAR IN PARK, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY OFF AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. SUBARU DEALER DIAGNOSED IT AS 'FAULTY SHIFTER ASSEMBLY'. THIS WOULD BE FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS NO WORK HAS BEEN DONE IN THOSE AREAS OF THE CAR SINCE PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM SUBARU DEALERSHIP IN 2016. CAUSES THE KEY TO BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND UNABLE TO REMOVE WHEN PUT IN PARK. *TR

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION WHEN PARKED AND TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE. KEY TURNS, BUT NOT TO THE POINT WHERE IT REACHES THE POSITION OF REMOVAL. IT OFTEN TAKES SEVERAL STARTS AND TURN OFF'S TO ACHIEVE REMOVAL OF THE KEY. OFTEN REQUIRES VERY FIRM FORCES OF THE SHIFT LEVER IN THE PARK POSITION TO ACHIEVE RELEASE OF THE KEY. *TR

I CANNOT TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION TO RELEASE THE KEY AFTER I'VE PUT THE CAR IN PARK THE FIRST TIME. IT CAN TAKE UP TO SEVERAL MINUTES OF ATTEMPTS TO TURN THE KEY TO VARIOUS POINT (LIGHTS ON/ACCESSORIES ON/ENGINE ON), DIFFERENT BRAKE POSITIONS, SHIFTING TO OTHER GEARS AND BACK TO PARK. THIS SEEMS TO HAPPEN MORE FREQUENTLY IN THE WINTER. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SEVERAL MONTHS AT A TIME SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW IN 2016.

I CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND TURNING IT OFF (IT WON'T TURN ALL THE WAY TO THE OFF POSITION). RESTARTING THE CAR AND TURNING IT OFF AGAIN FREQUENTLY DOESN'T HELP.

MY CAR HAS 55,000 MILES. RECENTLY, I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION. I AM ABLE TO STOP THE ENGINE BUT I AM NOT ABLE TO TURN OFF ALL THE ELECTRONICS. I HAVE TO STOP AND START, BACK UP OR PULL FORWARD (WHICH I AM NOT ALWAYS ABLE TO DO) THE CAR A NUMBER OF TIMES TO GET THE KEY TO COME OUT. MY DAUGHTER ALSO HAS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. SHE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AT ABOUT THE SAME MILEAGE, HAD THE IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED FOR $600.00 AND IS NOW HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN 1 YEAR LATER. THIS PROBLEM IS COMMON ENOUGH THAT SUBARU PUT A TECHNICAL REPAIR BULLETIN OUT ON IT TSB #16-12-18R BUT HAS NOT DONE A RECALL.

REPEATED AND UNPREDICTABLE BATTERY FAILURE WITH NO APPARENT CAUSE, I.E. DOME LIGHTS OR OTHER ACCESSORIES NOT POWERED "ON"., DOORS OR REAR CARGO HATCH NOT OPEN. DEALER ANALYSIS OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FOUND NO ISSUES HOWEVER REPLACED BATTERY. LAST OCCURRENCE 10/19/2019 IN THE HOME GARAGE.FOR RELIABILITY IT WAS NECESSARY TO PURCHASE A PORTABLE BOOSTER CHARGER COSTING $100.00. THERE HAS BEEN 8 SUCH OCCURRENCES SINCE THE PURCHASE (NEW) IN 2016. PLEASE ADVISE.

INTERMITTENTLY UNABLE TO REMOVE KEYS FROM IGNITION, AS THOUGH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS NOT DETECTING THE CAR IS IN PARK. WORK-AROUND IS USUALLY TO PUMP BRAKES, MOVE FROM DRIVE BACK TO PARK, SOMETIMES RESTARTING IGNITION AND THEN TRYING AGAIN. SOMETIMES THIS REQUIRES SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. FOUND SERVICE BULLETIN #16-112-18R, BUT SUBARU IS NOT COVERING COSTS OF REPAIR IF VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY. BASED ON THE NUMBER OF VEHICLES IMPACTED, THIS SHOULD TRULY BE A RECALL.

ON 10/10/2019 WE NOTICED A LONG CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD OF THIS VEHICLE FOR NO CAUSE. WE JUST GOT INTO THE CAR AND NOTICED. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED SINCE WE BOUGHT OUR 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK IN JUNE 2016. THE FIRST TWO TIMES (LAST ONE REPAIRED IN MARCH 2019) THE CRACK STARTED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD AS NUMEROUS PEOPLE HAVE REPORTED. INSURANCE WILL NOT PAY IN NEW MEXICO, SO WE HAVE TO KEEP REPLACING AT OVER $300 A TIME. THIS IS CLEARLY A FAULT IN THE DESIGN OR QUALITY OF THE GLASS. WE RESPECTFULLY REQUEST THAT YOU INVESTIGATE THIS FOR US AND MANY OF THE OWNERS OF THESE VEHICLES. IT IS UNACCEPTABLE TO HAVE TO KEEP PAYING THE FULL PRICE FOR NEW WINDSHIELDS. SUBARU NEEDS TO ADMIT A FAULT IN DESIGN AND PROVIDE CONSUMERS WITH WINDSHIELDS AT NO COST - PREFERABLY DESIGN ONE THAT WILL NOT CRACK. THIS IS THE FIRST VEHICLE IN 35 YEARS THAT HAS EVER CRACKED. THANK YOU FOR INVESTIGATING THIS ISSUE.

I RECEIVED A SMALL CHIP FROM A ROCK THAT THEN SPREAD TO ABOUT AN 8 INCH CRACK. IT'S BEEN THAT WAY WITH NO CHANGE FOR MONTHS. THEN THIS MORNING WE DROPPED TO 26 DEGREES AND WHEN I TURNED ON THE DEFROSTER FOR THE WINDSHIELD THE CRACK SHOT ACROSS THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD. I HADN'T EVEN MOVED THE CAR YET. I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY SAFELITE THAT THIS WINDSHIELD WAS FAULTY AND SUBARU SHOULD REPLACE IT UNDER WARRANTY BUT THE SUBARU HERE IN MISSOULA, MT IS REFUSING TO DO SO. I SEE THAT CA HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND THEY SUED SUBARU. DO I HAVE TO DO THAT TOO TO GET THEM TO HELP ME?

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANY OBJECT IMPACT. CRACK STARTED AT THE BOTTOM PASSENGER SIDE. SAME LOCATION AS LISTED IN A CLASS ACTION SUIT FOR 2015 AND EARLY MODEL 2016 CARS. VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS AT ABOUT 35MPH WHEN I HEARD THE NOISE. I DID NOT NOTICE THE CRACK UNTIL LATER IN THE DAY, AS IT WAS VERY LOW ON THE WINDSCREEN AND WAS NOT VISIBLE FROM THE DRIVERS POSITION IN THE CAR. THE CRACK HAS SINCE SPREAD ACROSS AND UP THE WINDSCREEN. SUBARU OF AMERICA HAS DENIED MY REQUEST FOR A REPAIR AND I WILL BE DOING SO AT MY OWN EXPENSE LATER TODAY.

The battery constantly drains until dead when not driven for as short of time as one day. My wife has been left stranded at home and work multiple times and had to rely on strangers for assistance. The problem was inspected and confirmed by mechanics here in NC. Multiple car care businesses confirmed that the problem is not with the battery itself but that 2016+ Subaru Outbacks have this problem and for which Subaru of America is under lawsuit for. There were no warnings. The problem was identified as persistent in the fall of 2019 while it was not driven as frequently, but the car battery drained unexpectedly on occasion before then. We purchased a new battery once, but we do not have the invoice.

ABOUT ONCE A WEEK FOR AT LEAST THE PAST YEAR, THE STARLINK SCREEN FREEZES IN EITHER A BLANK SCREEN OR THE SCREEN GIVING CHOICES BETWEEN CD, FM, ETC. MUSIC WILL PLAY BUT NONE OF THE BUTTONS WILL WORK. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT IF I HOLD DOWN THE ON/OFF BUTTON FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS OR SO, IT WILL BEEP AND GO BACK TO NORMAL. IT HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST TURNED ON AND IS STATIONARY.

NOTICING WHEN I PARK MY CAR THE KEY WON'T RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN CAR LEVER IS SET IN "P" POSITION. AS I PUSH IN AND TURN THE KEY FROM START TO LOCK THE KEY WILL STAY ACC POSITION WON'T GO INTO LOCK.

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION UPON PARKING THE CAR. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY (IN PARKING POSITION).

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HIS WIFE HAD ATTEMPTED TO PARK THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY ACCELERATED WHILE AT A COMPLETE STOP. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE JUMPED A CURB AND HIT A TREE; HOWEVER, HIS WIFE WAS UNSURE IF ANY WARNING LIGHTS HAD ILLUMINATED DURING THE FAILURE. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY UPON IMPACT AND THE CONTACT'S WIFE WAS NOT INJURED. THE POLICE WERE CALLED TO THE SCENE; HOWEVER, THE CONTACT WAS UNAWARE IF A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. DUE TO THE FAILURE, THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED FOR THE DAMAGE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT PRIOR TO THE FAILURE, THE VEHICLE WAS PLACED UNDER RECALL NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V794000 (POWER TRAIN) WHERE IT WAS SERVICED BY NORTH END SUBARU(757 CHASE RD, LUNENBURG, MA 01462). THE DEALER NOR THE MANUFACTURER HAD YET TO BE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 44,343.

I REGULARLY CANNOT REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHILE IN PARK. THE IGNITION DOES NOT SEEM TO RECOGNIZE THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK, SO I HAVE TO RESTART CAR, SHIFT DO DRIVE, RESHIFT TO PARK AND TRY TO REMOVE KEY MULTIPLE TIMES. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING CONSISTENTLY AND IS WORST WHEN PARKED ON A HILL.

DRIVING AT AROUND 40 MILES PER HOUR AND SUDDENLY LOST CONTROL OF THE STEERING WHEEL. THE STEERING WHEEL BECAME VERY LOOSE AND UNRESPONSIVE. IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP RIGHT AWAY AND THEY COULDN'T FIGURE OUT ANYTHING.

THE FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW DOES NOT ALWAYS FULLY CLOSE. SOMETIMES WHEN I'M CLOSING IT, THE WINDOW GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP AND THEN GOES DOWN ABOUT HALFWAY AND STAYS THERE. THE ONLY WAY I AM ABLE TO GET IT MOSTLY CLOSED IS WHEN I AM AT A STOP, I HAVE ONE HAND ON THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND THE OTHER ON THE WINDOW CLOSE BUTTON. I HOLD DOWN THE CLOSE BUTTON UNTIL THE WINDOW IS ALMOST ALL OF THE WAY UP AND THEN HIT THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON SO THAT THE WINDOW REMAINS SHUT MOST OF THE WAY. BY THE TIME I RESTART THE CAR, I UNLOCK THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND AM ABLE TO CLOSE THE WINDOW NORMALLY. THE WINDOW NOT CLOSING OCCURS AT A STOP OR WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING.

BATTERY FAILS REGULARLY CAUSING COMPLETE STOP. ELECTRIC SYSTEM TO WINDOWS, ESPECIALLY PASSENGER WINDOW, FAILS WITHOUT ANY KNOWN REASON

FRONT RIGHT CV JOINT STARTED MAKING A CLICKING SOUND THAT BECAME EXTREMELY BAD AFTER ONE MONTH. WE WERE TOLD TO REPLACE IMMEDIATELY DUE TO SAFETY HAZARD. HAD TO REPLACE THE CV AXEL COSTING OVER $600. GOT IT BACK FROM THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP, JUST TO BE TOLD THE LEFT ONE IS NOW GOING OUT AND WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED AS WELL.

NUMEROUS WINDSHIELD CRACKS, SEEMS TO OCCUR SPONTANEOUSLY.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. SENSOR IN STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. MUST "SLAM" THE SHIFTER INTO PARK IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY.

WHEN PUTTING AUTO INTO PARK, KEY WILL NOT TURN FAR ENOUGH TO ALLOW KEY TO COME OUT. HAVE TO RESTART CAR , SHIFT INTO OTHER GEARS AND RETURN TO PARK UNTIL THE KEY WILL COME OUT. I HAVE ANOTHER EXACT YEAR AND MODEL VEHICLE WHICH HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND IT WAS REPAIRED ABOUT 1 1/2 YEARS AGO. VEHICLE STATIONARY.

ABOUT A WEEK A GO I NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I CAN NOT ATTRIBUTE IT TO A ROCK OUR OTHER ROAD DEBRIS. CLOSE INSPECTION SHOWS A VERY SMALL CHIP DIRECTLY UNDER THE WIPER BLADE, WHICH WOULD PROTECT THE WINDSHIELD FROM A ROCK ETC. THE CRACK EXTENDS VERTICALLY DOWN UNDER THE PLASTIC TRIM AND UP ALMOST TO THE WIPER BLADE SWEEP LIMIT. THIS IS THE SECOND WINDSHIELD IN MY VEHICLE. IN 2017 I THOUGHT I GET HIT BY A ROCK. A LARGE CHIP APPEARED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE AND A CRACK IMMEDIATELY APPEARED. I PAID FOR A REPAIR BY THE DEALER. IT WAS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY OR INSURANCE. I AM NOW WONDERING IF THE FIRST WINDSHIELD WAS HIT BY A ROCK OR NOT. REGARDLESS, I CANT BELIEVE I WILL BE ON THIRD WINDSHIELD IN A VEHICLE I HAVE NOT YET HAD TO REPLACE THE BRAKE PADS.

MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION, WHILE IN PARK. STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT LOCK. TOOK TO THE DEALER. I KNOW THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH SOME OF THE FORRESTERS AND I LOOKED ONLINE APPARENTLY OTHER 2016 & 2017 MODEL SUBARUS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE. I SEE A SERVICE BULLETIN 16 112 18R, BUT IT DOES NOT COVER MY VEHICLE.

CAR IS IN PARK AND ENGINE IS OFF AND CAN NOT GET KEY OUT OF IGNITION. I THEN HAVE TO START CAR AND MOVE VEHICLE AND HOPES THAT WHEN I STOP CAR AGAIN I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. THIS IS A SAFEY ISSUE AS I CAN NOT LEAVE CAR WITH KEY IN IGNITION IN PUBLIC PLACE. IF I DO AT THE HOUSE, THEN THE CAR THEN DRAINS THE BATTERY AND CAR DIES.CAR IS ONLY 3 YEAR OLD!!! I'M NOT TO HAPPY WITH THIS. NEEDS TO BE FIX, THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL!!!!! BUT I DON'T SEE ONE YET! I READ OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.

WHEN THE LIFTGATE IS CLOSING A "CLICKING" NOISE IS MADE DUE TO STRESS ON THE LIFTGATE MOTOR. THIS IS CAUSED BECAUSE OF THE SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF STRAIN ON THE MOTOR TO OPEN THE LIFTGATE. THIS IS A SIGNIFICANT SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE THE MOTOR WAS DESIGNED TO BE UNDER SIGNIFICANT STRESS AND WHEN IT FAILS, WILL CAUSE THE LIFTGATE TO FALL POTENTIALLY INJURING MY CHILDREN UNLOADING THE TRUNK. THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP AGREED THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE RESOLVED BUT DOES NOT COVER THE COST OF REPAIRING THIS SAFETY ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HER VEHICLE WAS IN THE DRIVEWAY OF HER RESIDENCE, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT ASKED A NEIGHBOR FOR ASSISTANCE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE BATTERY WAS TAKEN OUT OF THE VEHICLE AND TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE A NEW BATTERY WAS PURCHASED. (BATTERY TYPE INTERSTATE 25-550 FITMENT 6). THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED BY THE TECHNICIAN. NO DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE HOWEVER, INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT NO KNOWLEDGE OF THE FAILURE WAS PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 24,000.*DT CONSUMER STATED BATTERY DIED A YEAR LATER AFTER REPLACEMENT.*JB

SUBARU OUTBACK 2016 4DR 2.5I - VEHICLE BEGAN MAKING LOUD NOISE WHEN DRIVING IN THE HIGHWAY. NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF VEHICLE. TOOK TO SUBARU DEALER IN CHANDLER AZ AND DEALER CHANGED RIGHT-REAR WHEEL HUB BEARING. VEHICLE ONLY HAS 67 K MILES.