2013 Tesla Model S Complaint Log

Battery packs on older Model S are dying WHILE driving. Puts the car non responsive and limp mode. No choice but to try and pull over. No acceleration and car dies. First occurrence warning happened, however went away upon charging the vehicle. Drove to a Tesla service center under its own power, left service center under its own power with no warning messages. Tesla is aware of the issue with older battery packs, demands 20k or to scrap your car, or they require a legal release pertaining to the battery pack. I was locked out of my vehicle and it was held without a mechanics lein. This legal release absolves them of all responsibility over the vehicle especially if you bring it to another shop. Owners have no right to repair their vehicles at shops with certified technicians. The second time this happened, luckily the vehicle was parked and died in a driveway. No warning messages prior. Tesla says it gave warnings however I was not aware. Car was towed by AAA to a service center where it currently sits. Reference to another vehicle which received international attention for exact same issue. https://www.newsweek.com/man-says-tesla-locked-him-out-until-pays-26-thousand-dollar-battery-1743016 These older cars are not safe on the road.

Main LCD screen has cracked. This screen controls all aspects of the car. I was told by Tesla repair that the crack will start to discharge toxic fluid and the car will cease to function.

Electrical system power reduced warning. Vehicle shutting down.

My 2013 Tesla Model S 60 KW didn’t drive on July 2022 and I got a warning on the screen that all electrical systems are shutting down . The car had to be towed to Tesla Service . Tesla service told me the battery pack has to be replaced for 13k. I went down to Tesla Service and told them I want to see the battery pack but I was told that I couldn’t see it and was shown a piece of the corroded fuse box cover. I was told I couldn’t take a picture of it even though this was my car and own the battery pack . I was told only then that there was corrosion on the fuse box cover to the battery pack and the battery pack has to be replaced for 13k. I paid 13k and Tesla replaced the battery pack 6 weeks later. I have learned since then that many Teslas Model S year 2012-15 have this problem. The problem is that the air conditioner hose leaks on to the fuse box cover and corrodes it. Tesla knows about this problem and refuses to do anything and just says that the entire battery pack has to be replaced. This is a defect in the battery pack that fuse box is located under the air conditioner hose. I asked Tesla before paying for the replacement battery pack if this would occur with the replacement battery and was told that the replacement battery has the fuse box at the other side of the battery pack .not like the old battery. Apparently Tesla knows about this problem and redesigned the battery pack. This a defective battery pack and the car could stop driving suddenly and crash into other cars. This very dangerous and Tesla knew about this for years and didn’t do anything. I was under warranty from 2013 till 2021 for the battery pack and Tesla should have repaired the battery pack or replaced it. I want to reimbursed for my 13k that I spent on the replaced battery pack. Tesla knowingly knows this problem and deceived me and said just the fuse box got corroded. This happened in July 2022 in the heat when I had the air conditioner on and water leaked on to the battery pack.

Center LCD SCREEN bubbling and leaking fluid from panel into car.

2013 TESLA MODEL S. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARD TO FAILURE DRIVE TRAIN SYSTEM. THE CONSUMER STATED THE DRIVE FAILED TWICE AND WAS REPLACED. THE CONSUMER STATED THE 2ND FAILURE WS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE CONSUMER REQUESTED TO BE REIMBURSED FOR THE REPAIR COST.

The Model S door handles extend/retract. The handle mechanism involves a gear that extends the handle out and a spring of sorts that retracts the door handle. The door handle can be programmed to automatically extend when in proximity to the key fob or be programmed to extend only when the car is physically unlocked with the key fob. Over the course of ownership (9 years) I have needed at least 7-8 door handles replaced because of a failure of the door handle to extend. When the door handle does not extend, the door cannot be opened from the outside. It can be difficult to pry open the door handle if the door handle cannot extend. If the driver door handle does not function, and if the driver becomes unconscious or incapacitated, there is no easy way for an individual outside the car to open the driver door without breaking the window or climbing into the car via another door that can be opened with a functioning door handle. This represents a significant safety concern and could render the door unusable and impede the efforts of rescue personnel from intervening on behalf of the driver. These door handles seemingly have a shelf life before failure, and I have been told by Tesla that they consider door handles to be "consumables," which suggests that they, like belts, brake pads, tires, etc. simply need to be replaced after a certain time. Over 30 years of owning and driving automobiles, I have never had to replace defective door handles at all, and certainly not once every year or two. Not to mention the safety issue, but Tesla also charges for parts and labors every time a door handle needs to be replaced.

Car completely turned off. I took it to service and they said that my battery was dying and was out of warranty $13k to fix. Second time turned off in the freeway while my son was driving it. Now the same service will be $22k. I learned that I’m not an isolated case and Tesla is not explaining what is really wrong with it. Another client found out that the air conditioner leaks in the battery. There has been people complaining in Reddit and Tesla canceled the comments

The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact stated upon attempting to remove the charger from the vehicle charging port, the charger remained plugged in. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and sent a certified technician who assisted in releasing the charger. The certified technician diagnosed that the charging port and the charger cord had melted and needed to be replaced. The manufacturer informed the contact that he would be responsible for the cost of repair. The contact became aware of NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V006000 (Equipment). The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 120,350.

I have loved my 2013 Model S since I got it. However, recently I have not been thrilled that I have needed a new powertrain according to my car. I was notified of this, set up service appointments, and it got delayed weeks later due to parts not arriving. I spoke with Kevin from Santa Ana Tesla, and he assured me the car was safe to drive. 3 days later, which was yesterday, my car died suddenly without warning when I was on Santa Monica Blvd in Los Angeles. I was there until 3 AM, and didn't get home in Irvine until 4 AM. It was really unsafe in the area late at night, and I was really frustrated the car wasn't safe to drive at all. My family and friends were with me and it could have been a total disaster. Now, I wake up and see the estimate to fix my car is almost $10,000.

Vehicle stops unexpectedly when driving. Put other drivers and myself at risk when vehicle suddenly stopped. The vehicle stopped on June 15 at approximately 6:57 pm EST. The vehicle stopped unexpectedly 4 times. After a period of time I was able to drive the vehicle a short distance. I was finally able to get the vehicle almost home. A few days later I was able to get the vehicle to the Tesla dealership for service. The vehicle has not been repaired yet.

The car suddenly has a powertrain issue, but it is a widely known problem with some estimates of 66% of all early Teslas having a powertrain issue by 60k miles. Mine happened at 56k. There is clearly a defect with early Tesla powertrains, as they increased the warranty to 8 years or 50k miles. My car is now at 9 years, and because of the low mileage due to covid, they will not cover the powertrain issue of the car. The following are links proving significant issues of my car. https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1093907_tesla-model-s-drivetrain-warranty-rises-to-8-years-same-as-battery-pack https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/tesla-problems-3-major-issues-you-need-to-know-about https://www.autoevolution.com/news/early-tesla-model-s-powertrain-reliability-issues-come-into-question-in-low-volume-study-102773.html I not only have the powertrain issue, but my center screen is also screwed up. This is a massive issue in Teslas because I cannot access my HVAC controls, or any safety controls with this not working. I have contacted Tesla numerous times, I will be happy to provide email exchanges and they have not done anything to help me except want to charge me a lot of money, 9k to fix all of this!

17 inch main Screen is bubbling and leaking fluid

Appointment for the Federal Recall NHTSA Recall No.: 21V-035 - 8gb embedded multimedia card (eMMC) VIN: FP24819 APPT. DATE: 24 MAY 2022 INCIDENT: Racial Profiling, Tesla customer service told the owner that he MUST PROVIDE THE 'PINK SLIP' (NOT THE REGISTRATION SLIP) FOR THE VEHICLE IN ORDER FOR ANY REPAIR OR SERVICE WOULD BE PROVIDED OR PERMITTED. This is racism, and not the first time.

REAR PASSANGER CONTROL ARM CRACKED AND BROKE AS I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY. TIRE BEGAN TO WOBBLE AND MAKE DRIVING UNSAFE.

Component failed: Rear subframe cracked Safety risk: Car not stable to drive at speed, drive unit can twist or flop/drop Confirmed issue w/ dealer who is also manufacturer. Root cause of failure not established, but no signs of collision. Working hypothesis is metal fatigue or stress as metal part is not built thick enough to withstand force places on it causing shearing. There are no warning lights or lamps, no symptoms prior to failure.

The media control unit is again failing, even after upgrading the EMMC component. Tesla is requesting I pay for a complete upgrade of the unit at $1500.

Wiper motor linkage on these vehicles break, leaving only the driver side wiper functional.

Bubbles are developing on the instrument cluster screen that may pose a safety concern by obscuring sight of important vehicle information, including speed and battery charge status. This is getting worse (more bubbles developing and becoming larger in size) by the day. This is a known problem that has been reported by other owners. Please see the following links: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/bubble-on-instrument-cluster.91537/ https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/instrument-cluster-bubble.192922/ https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaLounge/comments/h049ur/air_bubbles_appeared_in_model_s_ic_screen_anyone/

I purchased a 2013 Tesla Model S P85+ in March of 2022 and by April of 2022 the rear left tire separated at the corner of the side wall ( side facing underneath the vehicle). By July of 2022, I had another incident with the same problem. After repairing that problem, it happened again the following week. I took it for repair and two days later, it happened again. I have come to learn from other Tesla owners that the vehicle is heavy and that the tires can not adequately support the tires which is leading to this defect. It is a safety issue to have tires blowing out on the highway when one is traveling at higher speeds.

recently my car was repaired from MCU, The vehicle does not work the air conditioning in high temperatures can reach up to 110 degrees you can drive but I disable the air conditioning compressor.

I PULLED INTO A PARKING SPOT GOING UNDER 5MILES AND MY VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED AT FULL SPEED. THE CAR SUDDENLY STOPPED A FEW FEET LATER BEFORE DOING PROPERTY DAMAGE TO THE BUILDING. I HIT A TRASH CAN. THE INSURANCE COMPANY TOTALLED THE CAR. TESLA HAS THE INFORMATION ABOUT THE VEHICLE. IF I HAD BEEN THERE 2 HOURS LATER I WOULD HAVE KILLED SOMEONE WHO WAS LINED UP OUTSIDE THE STORE TO BUY A PS5. TESLA'S POSITION IS THAT I MOVED MY FOOT FROM THE BRAKE AND HIT THE ACCELARATOR AT FULL SPEED. THAT'S RIDICULOUS. NO ONE WOULD DO THAT. MY TESLA WAS ONE OF THE FIRST ONES IN DALLAS. IT IS A 2013. I LOVED THE CAR BUT NOW AM SCARED TO DEATH OF IT. I KNOW NHTSA HAS INVESTIGATED THIS. IT IS , HOWEVER, IMPROBABLE THAT THIS SAME THING HAS HAPPENED TO SO MANY DRIVERS AND IT IS DRIVER ERROR. ADDITIONALLY, THE TESLA"BLACK BOX" UPDATES EVERY 14 DAYS, SO THERE IS NO INVESTIGATION POSSIBLE AND TESLA CAN SAY "HUMAN ERROR" AS CAN NHTSA.

I brought in the car to be parked as part of NHTSA Recall No. 21V-035. The "fix" provided has led to my center console in the Model S to shutdown completely. I contacted Tesla to inform them that their fix as part of the recall has actually led to more problems.

Telsa MCU screen has large bubble. This is apparently a common problem. Tesla informed me there is no recall or warranty and I would have to purchase a new screen or an upgraded MCU system. The screen controls various functions of the car, including safety controls like dehumidifier.

I was just getting off the freeway, into a business area, and all of a sudden car stopped without any warning, with a quick "power reduced flash on the screen, unable to move at all. I was in the middle of busy area, blocking the street and cars parked on each side. The rear wheel drive locked, even in neutral position, and also tow mode. 4 people tried to push the car into a safe area without success. Had to wait for a tow truck to take the car to tesla facility. Was told there was an internal failure of the inverter and the unit its self, which would coast over 6k. Very scary and a stressful situation I suffered and it needs to be addressed of the danger.

2019, 2020, 2021, 2022 Prior 2022 I shared with Tesla several times about my tires constant notification on the dashboard for low air. Tires were constantly being checked due to the dashboard display. I was told by Tesla it was covered, but no repair was done. When Tesla mobile or service only air was placed into the tires. Then I was told by Tesla mobile & calling 1800 when service, then when recall was performed it should fix the problem. Vehicle was not driven often due to black screen and tire issues/dashboard display. 2022 eMMC is finally replaced but now the warning on the dashboard reads 'Tire pressure monitoring system fault. Pressure sensor fault 'MAY' CLEAR NEXT DRIVE. This is negligent for Tesla to say IT MAY CLEAR NEXT DRIVE (see pic). Tesla service had the vehicle in shop several times and refused to repair/correct this SAFETY issue. I have complained and Tesla has blocked me from messaging Tesla. What if there is a blow out, low pressure, faulty system and an accident occurs causing hurt, harm, or death?

Part II AFTER I EMAILED TESLA KEARNEY MESA SERVICE STATION, WITH MY CONCERN ABOUT THEIR BILLING FOR THE RECALL AND CUSTOMER SERVICE; I WAS SENT A NEW BILLING. MIND YOU, ALL MY ISSUES ARE RELATED TO THE RECALL AND TESLA SCHEMES AND FALSEHOODS. SEE ATTACHED

Tesla, Please assist me in the following: 1. I have LIFE Time charging, explain the $305.00 fee for a brand new battery Tesla charged/bill me and installed. 2. Tesla has a suggested billing of $100.00 to put air into a (1) tire. Or $100.00 to bring all tires to federal standards. Basically, no tire repair just air into tires. Please explain the charge. 3. Tesla called me at 9:21 A.M. inform me that my 27 March appointment was canceled (I had no say so). Then, I was instructed to have Tesla Roadside Assistance to tow my vehicle to your kearny mesa service station for $386.00 (Aaron - 1-877-798-3752). 4. I was instructed that Tesla Roadside assistance memberships was not an option to me. 5. I have an appointment but was told parts for my vehicle might be available or might not be available for a 2021 Federal Recall, but today date is 22 March 2022. I've waited 1 year not months for Tesla to contact me when my vehicle parts were available in regards to the recall. It feels like a scam: $630.00 Tesla $386.00 Tesla Roadside Assistance. 6. Also, an Uber credit would be grant. Please explain why my vehicle that has an appointment for air in four tires, supercharged, recall and software update, is not a priority when I have an appointment. 7. In 2021, I was made to believe and instructed to purchase a 12 volt battery to repair Recall. 8. In 2022, Tesla again instructed me that my brand new battery to be replaced

Brake pedal switch is malfunctioning causing the brake lights to turn on by itself when driving 60mph+ when I am pressing only the gas pedal and then it’s causing the engine to shutoff or power reduced due to “both pedals pressed” alert in the system. This can cause an accident 1st for sending the wrong brake light signal for the drivers behind me and 2nd to shut off engine when driving at high speeds. If this happens when driving uphill can cause the car to slow abruptly and even start going backwards due to engine shut off. Also I have concern that I had to reverse press (pull back) the brake pedal with my left foot in the middle of the highway to get rid of the alert while I was pressing the gas pedal with my right foot and then to regain gas power to continue to speed. Again, this is dangerous action that can cause an accident.

Drive Unit failed while driving. Car was not able to accellerate while coming off freeway. Driver heard thump then buzzing sound then couldn't accelerate. Driver drifted car to side of the road and it would not drive further.

The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V035000 (Back Over Prevention, Visibility, Exterior Lighting) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The local dealer was contacted and it was confirmed that parts were not yet available. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

The following recall is active on my 2013 Tesla Model S: NHTSA Recall Number21V035. Yesterday I had a booked date to fix this recall on my car and other small items. The Tesla dealership completely refused to do this work! They sttated that my vehicle was too old and that the warranty period had expired. They are completely wrong, of course, since the recall has nothing to do with the warranty nor the age of the car. Please help! Greetings, Franz

Mobile charger will not charge. Green light but will not charge. Failure may leave driver stranded in a remote location without ability to charge and parasitic drain will permanently damage the battery pack and vehicle

There is a current recall on my Tesla. It is my 3rd time returning the car after Tesla performed a recall with eMMC . My screen continues to go black and signal won’t work. I have to pull over and reset my car. Only way to resolve the issue is an MCU2 upgrade that I don’t want to pay. I need help please. It happens every other day. I have numerous of photos with date and time as proof.

"Center Display Unavailabe" message on dashboard. The center display screen that is critical for operating the vehicle controls and camera etc. was blank.

The Tesla Center Console Display screen which controls the entire car functions has bubbles and LCD leaks developing on the screen making screen extremely reflective and dangerous to use. The lamination glue leaks often and makes hands extremely sticky to touch steering wheel or any other parts. The Glue is industrial quality and doesnt come off easily - This screen should be recalled/replaced by Tesla free of charge as its a Safety Hazard while driving and operations of cars critical functions like Lights, Door, Locks , Windows etc

The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact stated that while driving at 70 MPH, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive and electrical power. A warning message stating that the vehicle was about to shut off was illuminated. The contact swerved to the right, attempting to veer to the side of the road on the right lane; however, the vehicle stopped midway and a semi-truck almost crashed into the rear passenger’s side of the vehicle. The contact pushed the vehicle into a nearby parking lot with assistance. The vehicle was towed to the dealer who diagnosed that the battery had failed and needed to be replaced. The dealer advised the contact that they had replaced the battery with a new battery; however, the failure reoccurred, and the battery was replaced for a second time. The Department of Auto Motor Repair of California investigated and informed the contact that the dealer had kept his original battery and the third battery that the dealer installed in the vehicle was not new. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to the dealer who replaced the third battery with the original one; however, the failure reoccurred. The dealer replaced the original battery with an upgraded battery. The contact also stated that the hood would not close securely. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not repaired. The vehicle was towed to a second dealer; Tesla (7077 W Sahara Ave, Las Vegas, NV 89117) who repaired the vehicle. The contact stated that the rear passenger’s side door would fail to close. The vehicle was towed twice to the second dealer and was finally repaired. The contact stated that the center display of the vehicle would inadvertently turn off while driving. The contact stated that the failure had prevented him from using the rearview camera or have control of the door switches and some features of the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 45,000.

Screen went totally blank and I can’t control anything. No access to heating, backup camera, navigation, etc.

Main screen is black, subject to current recall. Also, vehicle takes about 15mn to start. Tesla is trying to make us pay $1500 for the repair. Tesla non compliance reported on December 22 2021 to NHTSA by email and only now we are directed to file the complaint here.

When driving out of parking lot I turned on to the main road and was going about 20 mph when the front hood of car ( Tesla calls this the frunk) came open and raised up to a vertical position completely blocking my view. Fortunately I was going slowly and was able to pull off to the right shoulder and stop. I then was able to close this hood and continue home. Nothing appears damaged. I have no idea how or why this happened. There is no safety catch on this hood to keep it from flying open if the latch fails for some reason or another. Further more on the screen there is a button that can be pushed to open this front hood. I have not opened this front hood for several months. Further I don't know if this button will open the front hood if the car is in motion. If this front hood had come open while the car was moving at a high speed I could have lost control and been killed. I have owned many cars and have never seen one that did not have a safety catch on the front hood to prevent it from opening if the main catch was unlocked. This is a serious safety defect and Tesla should be required to recall any of its cars that do not have a safety catch feature holding the front hood from coming up unless released by a person standing in from of car and unlatching it by hand. Further the button on the screen should not be able to release the front hood if the car is moving. Lastly if this release button is pushed there should be some kind of audible warning to the driver that the front hood is not latched properly or the car should not be able to move forward if this front hood is not properly latched.

I lost power steering with 64,850 miles on the odometer. I was told the steering rack ($2750) and the front left body harness assembly ($525) needed to be replaced because of corrosion. These figures do not include labor and taxes. While I'm aware of the recall related to replacing the steering bolts to fix a corrosion problem (already fixed), this fix was not covered. I was very annoyed that this fix also included replacing the harness assembly, because the labor charge was 3 times the price of the harness assembly. This problem occurred in the morning after the car was parked in the driveway overnight and as soon as I turned the wheel, I head a slight pop and had NO power steering. The two line fault was "Steering assist reduced" "Steering may require increased effort". I'm glad this did not occur while negotiating a turn at speed because it's extremely difficult to manually steer a 4750 pound car without any power assist. I asked to keep the old parts, but I was only given the old steering rack and not the old harness assembly. The old steering rack looks slightly dirty, but other than that it appears fine and is available for inspection.

I am complaining about Tesla’s dishonest and underhanded repair center and battery. In October 2021, I was told I was receiving a new battery. When I picked up my car, I noticed it was not getting the maximum charge. Through investigation, we found a refurbished battery was given. Less than 3 months later, the refurbished battery failed. Michael Hilgado (Tesla manager) explained it was a faulty battery and that I would receive a replacement at no charge and with a new warranty because the one they placed in October was faulty. The battery was replaced. Please find below the timeline of all additional repairs and breakdowns. The Tesla App locks you out and changes prices, times, etc. without owners having access to information for verification. When paying for services, there is no review or education regarding the vehicle, warranty, etc. December 2022, ten months after the refurbished battery was replaced, the battery failed again and Tesla wants to charge another $15,000 for repairs. Please find below the timelines:

Screen behind steering wheel that displays Speedometer goes black from time to time. Am told by a Tesla tech that this issue is related to outdated MCU1 hardware and that a 1500 upgrade to MCU2 hardware will resolve the issue. The current software that runs on 9 year old hardware (same chips are used from 2012-early 2018) is too bloated and causes usability issues that create unsafe driving conditions. It is imperative that speed, climate control and other functions that MCU handles have 100% uptime, especially when the vehicle is in motion. This is only possible by a hardware upgrade that can run Tesla’s latest software (which is automatically pushed several times per year). Right now, Tesla will sell customers an upgraded MCU for $1500-2000, depending on vehicle. This MCU can handle the latest software that inevitably finds its way to every Tesla vehicle through automatic updates. Customers should not have to pay $2000 to maintain basic features, such as timely vehicle power up, reliable speedometer and climate controls, and consistently performing music playing. I have had dozens of issues with MCU performance over the 5year ownership period. NHTSA should do a performance and reliability evaluation of a model S or X with MCU 1 vs MCU 2 and use this data as evidence to demand Tesla recall for all 2018 and earlier vehicles with MCU 1. Common issues include: 1. Waiting 30-90 seconds for vehicle to power up and become drivable. This is especially concerning when driver needs to move vehicle in a timely fashion (think of scenario with impending danger). 2. Either of 2 screens going blank for 2-30 minutes, including while driving. This creates anxiety and distraction for a driver loosing gauges and loss of vehicle controls 3. Inability to change climate control, especially in dangerous conditions Think of the vehicles core functions and controls relying on iPhone 4 hardware !

The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V035000 (Back Over Prevention, Visibility, Exterior Lighting). The contact stated that the recall repair was performed twice however, the vehicle experienced an unknown computer failure. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the seats moved independently. The contact was unaware of a warning light being illuminated. The contact stated that the driver’s side seat would revert to the seat settings of the second driver independently while the vehicle was in motion. The contact had taken the vehicle to a dealer, where it was diagnosed and determined that the eMMC controller needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure occurred again and the eMMC controller was replaced a second time. The failure persisted. The failure mileage was 123,864.

On September 30th, 2021 I brought my car in to Tesla Carlsbad for an issue with the navigation. The Tesla rep also included the eMMC recall. In doing so my car is not slower to wake up and drive when I get in, the center display works intermittently which is a safety issue that the back up camera is disabled. Additionally as a result my walk away locking was disabled and and I had items stolen in the middle of the night (Feb 10, 2022). When brought to Tesla's attention they suggested a $1500-2000 fix to upgrade the chip from MCU1 to MCU2. Not only is this a safety issue but its fraud.

They were supposed to replace the eMMC board in 2020, and I have been asking for a year now(I have made at least 4 requests) and they still say that they don't have the parts to do it and to keep checking back in the future.

To whom it may concern, Tesla Model S, and potentially other vehicles, have notorious issues with their front suspension fore links perhaps causing unsafe driving conditions. The topic has been brought up on Tesla forums numerous times and countless drivers are experiencing the same issue due to faulty parts provided during the manufacture of Tesla vehicles. The issue causes turning tightness, tire rubbing, and complete car driving capability failure, usually at low speeds. With the frequency of the complaint and the potential danger it could cause should the front suspension fully fail at higher speeds, this serious matter needs to be investigated on an urgent basis. As older Tesla vehicles are now aging the occurrence and increased risk is only rising to everyday, unsuspecting drivers. Just recently, my fore link and front suspension failed only minorly, and without and complete understanding of what the issue was the car was experiencing I continued to drive the vehicle. The only noticeable issue that came up for me was tire rubbing during reversing and slight misalignment when the vehicle was parked. After taking it in to Tesla I now know that this could have been a fatal error on my part of the front suspension would have failed completely during highway speeds. When these front fore links fail, most will only experience minor issues like me and avoid taking it into repair, as the average car buyer does not understand that this could be a catastrophic failure. If this issue is not resolved and a recall seriously considered, I’m concerned in the not so distant future that this may lead to serious bodily harm if full failure of the front suspension occurs during highway or roadway speeds. Again, this is not an isolated issue. Countless and thousands of Tesla owners have shared their experiences online with the same issue. I’ve attached my Tesla service quote for your review, this repair costs upwards of $3,500.

I had a failure on my main computer. The MCU failed and the screen would not turn on. Tesla replaced a chip in my MCU but it did not fix all of my issues. I have to reboot my computer 95% of the time I am driving. Here are the issues: 1) 3g/GPS not activating. Leads to not being able to use GPS navigation. 2) Computer freezes. Usually while sleeping, computer does not wake up or the central screen does not respond leading to failures in many systems including: blinker, AC, radio, rear view for backing up, garage control, creep mode, etc. One time I left my computer in 'camp mode' so that it would keep cool on a hot day. While I was away from car, I checked on my mobile app to see the status of the car. The app could not connect to my car. When I came back, the computer had frozen up which meant that the AC was no longer working. This caused a unsafe level of temperature in my car of 100 degrees +. Luckily there was no dog or child in the car but I hate to think if there was. When I leave the car in 'dog mode' or 'camp mode', I expect it to do what it states it is going to do and keep my car cool. This could be very dangerous, especially on a hot day. In conclusion, even though Tesla did the fix for my MCU and my screen does turn on, it is not fixed 100% leading to constant reboots due to 3g failures and computer freezes. This happens almost every day.

The contact owns a 2013 Tesla Model S. The contact stated while driving at an unknown speed, the media control unit turned off and was unable to operate the windows or the Air Conditioner in the vehicle. The contact stated that the temperature inside the vehicle began to rise and had to park the vehicle for 30 minutes. The contact stated she was able to restart the vehicle and was able to access the windows and the Air Conditioner and some other features. The contact took the vehicle to the local dealer where it was diagnosed with needing to replace the old hardware to access the new updates. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated she had experienced the failure on multiple occasions. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.

I was approaching a stop sign at 2 mph when I heard a terrible metallic clunking sound from under the front of the car. When I went to make a right turn, I was unable to steer the car. I was able to get it into a parking lot where I saw that the front right wheel was cambered in at about 30 degrees. I took photos of the car and in the wheel well and saw that the wheel was disconnected from an upper control bar. I had it towed to the Tesla Service Center and they confirmed that the Upper suspension link had disconnected from the wheel. There is a ball and socket type of joint that connects the two and the ball had popped out of the socket causing the problem. I had them check the Right front connection and was told that that socket was also loose and needed to be replaced. I had both sides repaired. My concern is that had I been traveling on a highway at 70 mph, I would have lost control of the car causing a terrible accident. The fact that the other side also showed similar problems leads one to conclude that there is a design or material flaw in the Tesla Modal S front suspension. The car has only 83,000 miles of normal driving usage. I believe that all Model S cars from this era should be recalled and inspected for this problem. Otherwise, accidents will occur and some may be fatal. Tesla told me that they were unaware of any such problems with their cars. A quick internet search shows that this is not true. I have the parts that were removed if you need to inspect them.