NHTSA Owner Complaint Log
This page lists owner-reported complaints filed with NHTSA for the 2007 BMW 3 Series. Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA and do not by themselves prove a defect or defect rate.
Data synced from NHTSA on May 4, 2026
WHEN THE POWER DOOR LOCK FUSE IS BLOWN, PASSENGER CANNOT EXIT OR ENTER THE CAR MANUALLY. YOU CAN'T OPEN THE DOOR USING THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE. THE CAR WOULD LOCK YOU IN. ONLY THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR CAN BE OPEN USING THE INSIDE DOOR HANDLE. I HAVE TO LET THE PASSENGERS IN MY CAR CLIMB OVER THE DRIVER SEAT TO GET OUT. THIS IS A SERIOUS PROBLEM BECAUSE IF THE DRIVER DOOR IS JAM OR BLOCK FOR ANY REASON THEN YOU CANNOT OPEN ANY OTHER DOOR TO GET OUT. IT GETS WORSE SINCE BMW PUT AN UNDER POWER FUSE FOR THE DOOR LOCK WHICH CAUSE THE FUSE TO BLOWN OFTEN. *TR
ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS FAILED ON ALL FOUR DOORS WITH NO SYMPTOMS PRIOR TO COMPLETE SYSTEM FAILURE. KEY FOB AND CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM BUTTON INSIDE CAR WOULD NOT UNLOCK ANY DOOR. DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN BY PULLING ON INTERIOR DOOR LATCH HANDLES. THE ONLY WAY TO ENTER/EXIT VEHICLE WAS BY USING KEY ON EXTERIOR DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR TO UNLOCK THE DOOR, OR THROUGH THE WINDOWS. THIS SEEMS LIKE AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SINGLE POINT EGRESS FAILURE THAT COULD RESULT IN UNNECESSARY INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE IN EMERGENCY SITUATIONS. I REPLACED THE BLOWN 15A FUSE (#57) WITH A 20A FUSE PER SI B51 19 07 TWICE. FIRST FUNCTIONAL TEST BY PRESSING THE CENTRAL LOCK SYSTEM BUTTON RESULTED IN THE NEW FUSE BLOWING IMMEDIATELY EACH TIME. FURTHER TROUBLESHOOTING AND REPAIR WILL BE NECESSARY TO RESOLVE ISSUE (LIKELY BY REPLACING FAULTY ELECTRO/MECHANICAL DOOR LATCH/LOCK/ACTUATOR MECHANISM). *TR
MY 2007 BMW 328XI COMPLETELY POWERED DOWN WHILE I WAS DRIVING. I WAS FORCED TO "COAST" INTO A SIDE LANE ON A BUSY ROAD DURING THE FIRST OCCURRENCE. SINCE THIS FIRST INCIDENT MY CAR HAS BEEN HAVING THIS SAME EXACT ISSUE - RECENTLY, MUCH MORE FREQUENTLY. I FEEL AS IF THIS IS AN INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS ISSUE SINCE THIS HAS HAPPENED WHILE I HAVE BEEN DRIVING ON INCREDIBLY BUSY STREETS AND I COULD HAVE EASILY GOTTEN INTO SOME FORM OF AN ACCIDENT. *TR
USING THE KEY REMOTE WOULD ONLY LOCK THE DRIVER'S DOOR. THEN WHEN USING THE KEY REMOTE TO UNLOCK THE DOOR, THE LIGHTS FLASH AND THE LOCK "CLICKS" BUT THE DRIVER'S LOCK WOULDN'T UNLOCK. I USED THE METAL KEY IN THE KEY FOB TO MANUALLY UNLOCK THE DOOR AND TRIED IT ALL OVER AGAIN. SAME THING HAPPENED...KEY REMOTE WOULD LOCK ONLY THE DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK...KEY REMOTE TO UNLOCK WOULD FLASH THE LIGHTS BUT NOT UNLOCK THE DOOR...REQUIRING ME TO USE THE PHYSICAL KEY IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR TO UNLOCK THE DRIVER'S DOOR. THINKING THAT THE CAR WAS NOT REGISTERING THAT THE OTHER THREE DOORS WERE NOT LOCKED, I PHYSICALLY LOCKED THE DOORS WHILE INSIDE THE CAR BY DEPRESSING THE LOCKS ON THE TOP OF EACH DOOR. BAD IDEA! NOTHING WOULD WORK TO UNLOCK THE CAR (WITH ME INSIDE!)...UNLOCK BUTTON ON THE KEY REMOTE...NOPE...LOCK/UNLOCK BUTTON ON THE DASH NEAR THE VENTS...NOPE....PULL ON THE DOOR HANDLES OF ALL THE DOORS FROM THE INSIDE (MULTIPLE TIMES)...NOPE. ULTIMATELY, TO GET MYSELF OUT OF THE CAR I HAD TO ROLL DOWN THE DRIVER'S SIDE WINDOW AND USED THE PHYSICAL KEY IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK TO MANUALLY UNLOCK THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR ONLY. *TR
I PURCHASED THESE GENERAL TIRES FROM TIRERACK.COM SEVERAL YEARS AGO THEY ARE RATED TREAD LIFE OF APPROX 40K MILES. A FEW WEEKS AGO I NOTICED BY MY TIRE PRESSURE SENSORS I HAD A SLOW LEAK IN MY FRONT LEFT TIRE. I REMOVED THE ENTIRE WHEEL TO INSPECT FOR TIRE DAMAGE OR CRACKS, AND WAS APPALLED TO FIND THE INSIDE OF THE TIRE TREAD HAD SPLIT FROM THE SIDEWALL THE ENTIRE WAY AROUND. THIS IS QUITE DANGEROUS I HAD NO IDEA I COULD HAVE HAD A BLOW OUT AT ANY TIME. I DO NOT KNOW HOW LONG THIS TIRE WAS IN THIS CONDITION. I HAD APPROX 25K MILES ON THE TIRES. I IMMEDIATELY ORDERED NEW FRONT TIRES AND DID NOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTIL REPLACED. I AM SEEKING REPLACEMENT TIRE FROM GENERAL HOWEVER THEY DO NOT SEEM VERY CONCERNED WITH THIS ISSUE. THE GUYS AT TIRE KINGDOM WHO CHANGED THE TIRES CONFIRMED IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS TO BE DRIVING ON A TIRE IN THAT CONDITION. THEY ALSO SAID IT'S LIKELY A DEFECTIVE GENERAL TIRE. GENERAL OFFERED TO REPLACE BASED ON REMAINING LIFE BUT WOULD LIKELY FIND AN EXCUSE BASED ON WEAR PATTERN AND BLAME USAGE. THE OTHER FRONT TIRE SAME BRAND, SIZE AND WEAR DID NOT HAVE THIS ISSUE. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328XI. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS EQUIPPED WITH A KEYLESS IGNITION START AND THE ENGINE WOULD NOT START. IN ADDITION, THE BATTERY FAILED TO JUMP START. AFTER WAITING FORTY EIGHT HOURS THE ENGINE STARTED UPON ENGAGING THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION. THE FAILURE OCCURRED SIX TIMES. ON A SEPARATE OCCASION WHEN DRIVING THE ENGINE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING AND RESTARTED IMMEDIATELY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS. THERE WAS NO TROUBLE DETECTED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE PROBLEM. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 85,000.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 335I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE CHARGING MALFUNCTION WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE ALTERNATOR AND POSITIVE CABLE CONNECTOR WAS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE BUT THEY DID NOT OFFER ANY ASSISTANCE SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V044000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 75,000. *TR UPDATED 6/17/13 *CN UPDATED 06/25/13
I PURCHASED A 2007 BMW 328I ON 8/6/2011, 59,642 MILES. SHORTLY AFTER THIS PURCHASE, I EXPERIENCED THIS VEHICLE OVERHEATING AND LOSING ALL POWER WHILE DRIVING TWICE IN ONE WEEK, OCTOBER 25 AND OCTOBER 27, 2011. AFTER APPROXIMATELY 5 MINUTES OF DRIVING, THE YELLOW WARNING SIGNAL ILLUMINATED AND TEN SECONDS LATER, THE RED WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY LOST POWER AND STALLED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROADWAY. I WAS TOLD TO PICK UP MY CAR AND COME BACK IF IT RAN HOT AND STALLED AGAIN (CUSTOMER TO MONITOR). I PICKED MY CAR UP ON WEDNESDAY EVENING AFTER WORK AND DROVE STRAIGHT HOME. ON THURSDAY MORNING THE YELLOW LIGHT FLASHED AND IMMEDIATELY TURNED RED AND SHUT OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROADWAY AGAIN. I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AGAIN. THIS TIME, WHEN THE CAR WAS PLACE ON THE TOW TRUCK, COOLANT RAN FROM UNDER THE VEHICLE ONTO THE GROUND. THIS IS A VERY FRUSTRATING, UNEXPECTED, EXPENSIVE AND DANGEROUS PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE. IF I HAD BEEN TRAVELING ON THE HIGHWAY AND THIS VEHICLE SHUT DOWN WITHIN 10 SECONDS, I WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN ABLE TO SAFELY NAVIGATE THIS VEHICLE TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD. FORTUNATELY, I WAS NOT REAR ENDED ON EITHER INCIDENT. I UNDERSTAND THAT THE PURPOSE OF THE ENGINE SHUTTING DOWN IS TO PREVENT ENGINE DAMAGE, BUT THERE SEEMS TO BE NO ADVANCE WARNING, WHICH PUTS THE OCCUPANTS IN DANGER OR BEING REAR ENDED. I AM VERY CONCERNED ABOUT THIS SWIFT TOTAL SHUT DOWN OCCURRING WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY AND CAUSING A MAJOR ACCIDENT. ALTHOUGH THE WATER PUMP WAS NOT DEEMED AS THE ABSOLUTE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM, THE DEALERSHIP STARTED THEIR CORRECTIVE ACTION WITH REPLACING THE WATER PUMP AND THERMOSTAT. I RECENTLY DISCOVERED WHILE UNDER WARRANTY, THIS VEHICLE'S CYLINDER HEAD WAS REPLACED AND SLUDGE WAS IN THE ENGINE OIL (PRIOR TO MY PURCHASE). I CONTACTED BMWUSA AND WAS TOLD THAT COMPONENTS BREAK DOWN SOMETIMES. *TR
THE STEERING COLUMN LOCK FAILED WHICH REQUIRED BMW TO REPLACE THE UPPER STEERING COLUMN AT $1,252.92!!! *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 335I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT WOULD ILLUMINATE ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND THE VEHICLE WOULD ATTEMPT TO SHUT OFF. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER ADVISED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN ANY RECALLS. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 56,000.
THE AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS ON MY CAR HAVE QUICK WORKING AND THE ONLY WAY TO ENTER OR EXIT THE CAR IS THROUGH THE DRIVER DOOR USING THE MANUAL KEY FOB. PASSENGER DOORS ARE INOPERABLE FROM BOTH INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR. THIS PRESENTS A SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERN IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT OR FIRE. *TR
WHEN THE CRUISE CONTROL ARM IS PUSHED FORWARD TO ACCELERATE MILE BY MILE, THE ARM STICKS CAUSING THE CAR TO ACCELERATE UNCONTROLLABLY UNTIL THE CRUISE CONTROL IS TURNED OFF OR THE BRAKE IS USED TO DISENGAGE. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEYLESS ENTRY FUNCTION FAILED TO OPERATE WHEN HE ATTEMPTED TO UNLOCK THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE AFFECTED THE FRONT AND REAR PASSENGER DOORS DISALLOWING HIM TO ENTER THE VEHICLE. THE DEALER REPLACED THE ACTUATOR AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE HOWEVER, DID NOT OFFER ANY ASSISTANCE. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 24,000.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT, THE ENGINE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE WATER PUMP FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. ALSO, WHILE STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE BATTERY BECAME INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BATTERY FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.
THE CAR STALLED AND LOST POWER ON HIGHWAY. ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON . ROUGH IDLING. FIRST INCIDENT OCCURRED SEPTEMBER 2011. THE SECOND INCIDENT HAPPENED OCT 26, 2011. BOTH TIMES THE CAR STALLED AND LOST POWER ON THE HIGHWAY. I BELIEVE THAT THIS CREATED A VERY DANGEROUS AND LIFE THREATENING SITUATION FOR ME AND OTHERS ON THE HIGHWAY. *TT
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. THE CONTACT STATED THE KEY LOCK ACTUATOR FAILED; WHENEVER SHE UNLOCKED THE DOORS THE LATCH ON THE FRONT DRIVERS AND FRONT PASSENGERS SIDE FAILED TO LOCK. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO STATED SHE NEEDED ALL FOUR ACTUATORS TO FUNCTION IN ORDER FOR THE LOCKS TO WORK PROPERLY. THE CONTACT WAS ADVISED THAT THE REPAIR COST WAS $1200 AT HER EXPENSE; HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.
CAR LOCKS BUT THEN WILL NOT UNLOCK, I HAVE TO MANUALLY UNLOCK THE DRIVER DOOR. PASSENGER DOORS WILL NOT UNLOCK AT ALL. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME TWICE, THE FUSE KEEPS BLOWING OUT. I HAVE CHANGED THE FUSE TWICE IN 3 MONTHS. I HAVE LOOKED THIS PROBLEM UP ONLINE AND THIS SEEMS TO BE A MAJOR PROBLEM FOR THE 2007 BMW 328XI. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A HUGE SAFETY PROBLEM AND NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. I HAVE TWO CHILDREN AND THE THOUGHT OF SOMETHING HAPPENING WHERE WE ARE UNABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR FRIGHTENS ME. *TR
I HAVE A 2007 328XI THAT CURRENTLY HAS 51,000 MILES. IT IS THE SECOND TIME THAT MY LOCKS IN THE VEHICLE HAVE FAILED. THE LOCKS PREVIOUSLY FAILED AROUND 30,000 MILES AND WERE REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY, BUT NOW OUT OF WARRANTY I WILL BE LEFT TO FOOT THE BILL MYSELF. IN THE MOST RECENT INCIDENT, I WAS UNABLE TO UNLOCK THE CAR USING THE KEY FOB OR THE BUTTON ON THE DASH. I FOUND MYSELF LOCKED IN THE VEHICLE AND HAD TO EXIT THROUGH THE DRIVER'S WINDOW. LUCKILY, I WAS ABLE TO UNLOCK THE CAR FROM THE OUTSIDE USING THE VALET KEY. THE WINDOWS AND TRUNK WORKS, BUT THE LOCKS DO NOT. WHEN I PRESS THE LOCK AND UNLOCK BUTTON ON THE KEY FOB AND DASH, I HEAR AN AUDIBLE SOUND AS THE CAR IS TRYING TO LOCK/UNLOCK BUT THE ACTUATORS IN THE DOORS DO NOT FUNCTION. IT IS A SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD IF PASSENGERS CANNOT EXIT THE VEHICLE FOR ANY REASON. PLEASE INITIATE AN INVESTIGATION AND RECALL IMMEDIATELY. BMW ENGINEERS MUST DESIGN NEW LOCKING SYSTEM COMPONENTS THAT ARE NOT DEFECTIVE AND DO NOT FAIL EVERY 20,000 MILES. *TT
THERE HAS BEEN A RECALL ON MY VEHICLE MODEL (2007 BMW 328I) FOR CRACKS DEVELOPING IN THE "FRONT PASSENGER SEAT OCCUPANT DETECTION MAT". THIS CAUSES THE PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG TO BE DEACTIVATED DURING A CRASH (NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V564000). I CALLED BMW AND THEY SAY THAT MY PARTICULAR VEHICLE IS NOT COVERED UNDER THIS RECALL. I REALLY DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHY MY PARTICULAR VEHICLE IS NOT COVERED WHEN MY EXACT MODEL IS COVERED UNDER THE RECALL AND THE ISSUE WITH MY CAR IS EXACTLY THE SAME. I FEEL THIS IS VERY UNFAIR. PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE. I FEAR THE WORST BECAUSE NOW I AM MARRIED AND I HAVE A PASSENGER MORE OFTEN THAN BEFORE. I REALLY CANNOT AFFORD $1000 RIGHT NOW TO FIX AN ISSUE THAT SHOULD BE COVERED BY BMW. *TR
THE DOORS FAILED TO UNLOCK WITH THE KEY FOB. ONLY WAY TO ENTER WAS WITH THE KEY INTO THE DRIVERS DOOR. THE OTHER DOORS FAILED TO UNLOCK FROM THE INSIDE, BOTH BY USING THE HANDLE AND THE UNLOCK BUTTON ON THE DASH. APPARENTLY, THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS ARE DRAWING MORE CURRENT FLOW AND BURNING THE 15A FUSE INSTALLED. A BMW SB SAYS TO REPLACE WITH A 20A FUSE, HOWEVER, THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. THIS CREATES AN UNSAFE CONDITION, IN THAT NO PASSENGER(S) CAN EXIT THE VEHICLE, AND NOBODY, SUCH AS EMERGENCY PERSONNEL, CAN ENTER FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE FUSE ISN'T THE ANSWER, BMW KNOWS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM AND SHOULD DEAL WITH IT IN A MANNER THAT PROMOTES SAFETY OF PASSENGERS, NOT PROFITS FOR THE DEALERS. *TR
BMW 2007 328 XI DOOR LOCK FUSE #57 BLEW. NONE OF THE INTERIOR DOORS WOULD OPEN FROM THE INSIDE. I HAD TO ROLL THE WINDOW DOWN FROM THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR, USE THE KEY FOB TO UNLOCK THE DOOR FROM THE OUTSIDE. I THEN HAD TO PULL MY KIDS FROM THE CAR THROUGH THE WINDOWS AS THE OTHER THREE OF THE FOUR DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN. FORGET THE TOYOTA "ACCELERATOR"; THIS SEEMS LIKE A REAL SAFETY ISSUE. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 335I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED WHEN HE NOTICED THAT ONLY THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR WOULD OPEN FROM THE INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THEY WERE IN THE PROCESS OF DIAGNOSING THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE, BUT OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 32,000. UPDATED 11/29/11 *CN THE CONSUMER STATED THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR ACTUATOR FAILED, CAUSING ALL THE OTHER DOORS TO REMAIN LOCKED AND INOPERABLE. UPDATED 12/07/11
BRAKES GO OUT A LOT FRONT AND REAR ON BOTH MY BMWS , AND PASSENGERS REAR DOOR LOCKS STOP WORKING ON BOTH MY BMW'S 2006 325, AND 328I 2007. WINDOWS ON BOTH RIGHT REAR DOORS WORK WHEN THEY WANT TO. I'VE BEEN TELLING THE BMW DEALER ABOUT THESE THINGS AND ALL THEY SAY IS WHAT IT WILL COST ME TO FIX. I EVEN TOLD THEM ABOUT THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS ON BOTH MY CARS AND THEY HAD ME PAY FOR IT, THEN LATER I FIND OUT IT IS A RECALL. BUT DIDN'T GET MONEY BACK FOR ME PAYING TO GET IT FIXED. SAME THING ABOUT THE BRAKES , BOTH MY BMWS BEEN IN THE SHOP MORE THEN 30 TIMES OR MORE APIECE. CAN SOMEONE HELP. *TR
DOORS REMAINED IN LOCKED POSITION AND WOULD NOT RESPOND TO REMOTE ON FOB OR CENTRAL DOOR CONTROL INTERNALLY. DRIVER, PASSENGER, AND REAR DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN MANUALLY ONCE DOOR LATCH DEPRESSED. DRIVER DOOR ONLY OPENED THROUGH WINDOW TO ALLOW PASSENGERS IN FRONT AND REAR SEATS TO EXIT. OBVIOUSLY, VERY DIFFICULT TO EXIT. AFTER INITIAL INCIDENT, NO PASSENGERS COULD RIDE IN CAR UNTIL ISSUE WAS RESOLVED. *KB
MY DOOR LOCKS FAILED TO UNLOCK (WITH BOTH THE REMOTE ENTRY AND THE DOOR LOCK SWITCH LOCATED IN THE CAR) WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR USING THE MANUAL KEY TURN. THIS WAS REPAIRED BY REPLACING THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS, UNDER WARRANTY. *TR
DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILURE: FRONT DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS FAILED DISALLOWING EXIT FROM ALL DOORS EXCEPT THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT DOOR. PASSENGERS COULD ONLY EXIT THE VEHICLE BY CRAWLING OUT OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT DOOR. THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR AND BOTH REAR DOORS COULD NOT BE OPENED BY USING THE INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR DOORHANDLES. FURTHERMORE, THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM DISALLOWED ANY UNLOCKING OF THESE THREE DOORS AS WELL. FORTUNATELY, THE CAR WAS NOT INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT DURING THIS DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILURE. DURING THE TIME OF THIS INCIDENT, TWO PEOPLE WERE IN THE CAR. THE CONSEQUENCES OF NOT HAVING DOORS WHICH CAN OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAR COULD PROVE DEADLY IN AN ACCIDENT. A LETTER WAS WRITTEN TO BMW OF NORTH AMERICA, LLC BY THE OWNER OF THIS CAR IN THIS REPORT AND THEIR RESPONSE ON OCTOBER 7TH, 2011 WAS, "WE HAVE NO RESPONSE." *TR
THERE IS A DEFECT WITH THE ELECTRONIC STEERING WHEEL LOCK. THE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON, BUT THE CAR FUNCTIONED NORMALLY DESPITE THE OWNER'S MANUAL SAYING THE CAR WOULD NOT START. I THOUGHT IT WAS A DEFECTIVE LIGHT, UNTIL I TRIED TO START MY CAR ONE MORNING. THE ELECTRONIC STEERING WHEEL LOCK WOULD NOT DISENGAGE, AND I HAD TO GET THE CAR TOWED. IT APPEARS TO BE A COMPLEX PROBLEM AS BMW DEALER MECHANICS CAN ONLY TELL ME THAT THE STEERING COLUMN NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THEY WILL NOT TELL ME WHY IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED OR WHAT IS CAUSING THE PROBLEM. ESTIMATES FOR REPAIR HAVE BEEN BETWEEN $1300 AND $1800 DEPENDING ON THE DEALER. I UNDERSTAND THAT CARS BREAK DOWN BUT, AFTER VISITING BMW FORUMS ON THE INTERNET, IT IS PLAIN TO SEE THAT THIS IS A KNOWN DEFECT THAT BMW REFUSES TO FIX. ONE POSTING DID INDICATE THAT THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP WHILE THE CAR WAS BEING DRIVEN CAUSING A DANGEROUS SITUATION, BUT, IN MY CASE, THE CAR WAS PARKED. THIS DEFECT DOES POSE TO CAR OWNERS A GREAT INCONVENIENCE WITH POSSIBLE UNSAFE CONSEQUENCES DEPENDING ON THE CIRCUMSTANCES SURROUNDING THE CAR OWNER GETTING STRANDED. FURTHERMORE, ONCE STRANDED, THE OWNER HAS LITTLE CHOICE BUT TO GET IT TOWED MOST LIKELY TO A BMW DEALERSHIP AND PAY THE LARGE REPAIR BILL. (I TRIED AN INDY BMW SPECIALIST FIRST. HE COULD NOT FIX IT OR EVEN DETERMINE WHY IT WAS OCCURRING.) I AM FILING THIS COMPLAINT IN THE HOPE THAT ANY SUBSEQUENT INVESTIGATION BY THE NHTSA WILL REVEAL THAT BMW HAS LET A KNOWN DEFECT PERSIST. ONCE THAT IS DISCOVERED, BMW SHOULD BE REQUIRED TO FIX THE DEFECT AND REIMBURSE OWNERS WHO HAVE HAD TO PAY FOR A COSTLY REPAIR. *TR
DOOR LOCKED IN POSITION, UNABLE TO GET OUT OF CAR. NO MANUAL WAY TO GET OUT OF CAR. HUGE SAFETY ISSUE. FINALLY ABLE TO UNLOCK USING KEY. WHEN SPEAKING TO BMW SERVICE CENTER (WALTERS OF RIVERSIDE) ABOUT ISSUE, THEY SAID IF KEY WOULD HAVE BEEN IN IGNITION THE CAR WOULD HAVE UNLOCKED. NOW EPISODE HAPPENED AGAIN, BUT UNABLE TO GET OUT OF CAR. KEY DOES NOT WORK EVEN IF IN IGNITION. LUCKILY, THE PASSENGER DOOR WAS UNLOCK AND I WAS ABLE TO CRAWL OUT. NOW DOORS ARE LOCK SO I WILL HAVE TO HAVE THE CAR TOWED. I AM UNABLE TO GET INTO THE CAR. *TR
I HAVE AN 2007 328I BMW WHICH STALLED AND CUTOFF ON 3 OCCASION WITHIN 4 YEARS. THEY REPLACED AS PER TECH THE FUEL INJECTION TWICE WITHIN 2 YEARS AND NOW THE CAR IS PARKED MY WARRANTY IS EXPIRED AND CUTOFF AGAIN LAST 2 WEEKS. *KB
CAR SUDDENLY LOOSES POWER AND DISPLAYS "ENGINE MALFUNCTION REDUCED POWER OUTPUT." THIS IS SCARY AND UPSETTING WHEN DRIVING ON HOUSTON HIGHWAYS WITH 18 WHEELERS PASSING YOU. YOU NEED TO SAFELY PULL OVER TO THE SHOULDER, RESTART THE CAR, AND THE WARNING GOES AWAY, THE POWER COMES BACK AND YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN AND WHERE THIS WILL HAPPEN AGAIN. VERY UNSAFE AND DISTURBING. *TR
2007 328XI CURRENTLY AT 65700MI. UNABLE TO UNLOCK CAR USING KEY FOB OR INSIDE BUTTON ON DASH. WINDOWS WORK, HANDLES LIGHT UP. CAN HEAR AN AUDIBLE SOUND WHEN CAR IS TRYING TO UNLOCK. CANNOT OPEN WITHOUT USING VALET KEY. CAN EXIT FROM DRIVER SIDE ONLY USING HANDLE. ALL OTHER DOORS CANNOT UNLOCK AS WELL AS GAS CAP. SAFETY HAZARD IF PASSENGERS CANNOT EXIT VEHICLE FOR ANY REASON. *TR
MY WIFE WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE DOOR ON OUR 2007 BMW 328I. THE DOOR LOCKS SEEM TO BE STUCK WITH NO WAY TO OPEN THEM EXCEPT THE DRIVERS DOOR WHICH WILL STILL OPEN WITH TWO PULLS ON THE DOOR RELEASE LATCH. ALL OTHER DOORS AND THE FUEL FILLER DOOR ARE STUCK CLOSED. VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION AS EVERYONE HAS TO EXIT THROUGH THE DRIVERS DOOR OR THROUGH THE ELECTRIC WINDOWS. OBVIOUS SAFETY ISSUE WHICH SEEMS TO BE VERY COMMON WITH THESE CARS. SHOULD BE RECALLED AND HAVE A FIX WHICH MAKES THE DOORS OPEN EVEN WITH AN ELECTRICAL FAILURE. *TR
DOOR LOCKS FAILED TO UNLOCK EITHER WITH THE REMOTE CONTROL OR THE INSIDE DOOR LOCK BUTTON (CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM). DOORS EXCEPT FOR THE DRIVERS DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN EVEN USING THE INSIDE DOOR HANDLES. THE DRIVERS DOOR HAD TO BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE USING THE KEY. MY WIFE AND I WERE LOCKED IN THE CAR IN TEMPERATURES EXCEEDING 100 DEGREES. WE DID NOT EVEN REALIZE THE LOCKS DID NOT WORK UNTIL WE RETURNED HOME FROM A BRIEF TRIP. HAD WE BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT WE WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN ABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR. THE GAS FILLER DOOR IS LINKED TO THE DOOR LOCKS AND WOULD ALSO NOT OPEN. IT SEEMED THAT THE DOOR LOCKS ARE ONLY ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED WITH NO MANUAL LINKAGE SINCE LIFTING THE BUTTON ON THE DOOR DID NOT UNLOCK THE DOOR. AFTER FINALLY GETTING OUT OF THE CAR I DID SOME QUICK RESEARCH ONLINE AND FOUND THIS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM. THE FUSE HAD BLOWN SO I REPLACED THE FUSE BUT I AM SURE IT WILL FAIL AGAIN. CANNOT TRUST THE CAR NOW SO WILL BE GETTING RID OF IT. THIS IS A DANGEROUS DESIGN WHEN THE DOORS WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE WHEN THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL FAILURE. *TR
REGULAR USAGE. ONE DAY, THE CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM SIMPLY DIED WITHOUT WARNING AND THERE IS NO ALTERNATIVE WAY OF UNLOCKING THE PASSENGER DOORS AFTER THE CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM DIED. *KB
2007 BMW 328I KEY FOB NO LONGER LOCKS/UNLOCKS ALL DOORS. THIS IS A SEVERE SAFETY HAZARD. THIS HAS HAPPENED MORE THAN TWICE ALREADY. IF THERE WERE AN ACCIDENT OR IF PASSENGERS WERE IN THE CAR, THEY WOULD HAVE TO GO OUT OF THE CAR THROUGH THE CAR WINDOWS. ONLY THE MANUAL KEY OPENS THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ACTUATOR FAILED ON ALL FOUR DOORS OF THE VEHICLE AND NONE OF THE DOORS WOULD OPEN FROM THE EXTERIOR OR INTERIOR. THE FAILURE ALSO PREVENTED THE DOOR TO THE FUEL TANK FROM BEING OPENED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE ACTUATORS WERE REPLACED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 74,000.
STEERING WHEEL LOCKED ON 2007 BMW 328I COUPE FOR THE SECOND TIME IN TWO MONTHS! HAD TO HAVE VEHICLE TOWED, MISSED WORK, AND OUT OF A VEHICLE UNTIL IT IS FIXED...FOR THE SECOND TIME IN TWO MONTHS. I ALSO KNOW OF AT LEAST 4 PEOPLE WHO HAVE HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM WITH THEIR BMW'S. PLEASE LOOK INTO THIS. *TR
THE POWER LOCKS IN MY 2007 BMW 328XI SUDDENLY STOPPED WORKING. THE ALARM ARMS/DISARMS WITH THE USUAL BUTTON PRESSES, BUT THERE IS OTHERWISE NOTHING THAT TAKES PLACE. OBVIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. WHILE VALET KEY UNLOCKS FRONT, DRIVER-SIDE DOOR -- DIDN'T TEST PASSENGER'S -- THE FUEL DOOR REMAINS LOCKED. I HAVE A BUSINESS TRIP PLANNED EARLY IN THE MORNING. THE SAVING GRACE IS THAT I DIDN'T ENCOUNTER THIS FUEL DOOR FIASCO ON I-95 IN SOME BACKWOODS TOWN, BUT WOW... HOW IS THIS NOT A RECALL?!?!?! I SEE SEVERAL COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME ISSUE! DOES SOMEONE NEED TO DIE FIRST? WOW! *KB
2007 BMW 335XI DOOR LOCK SYSTEM FAILURE. THE CAR IS 3 YEARS OLD AND THE DOOR LOCKS HAVE FAILED TWICE. THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR LOCKS WILL NOT OPEN AND THE ONLY RECOURSE WAS TO CLIMB OVER THE CONSOLE AND EXIT THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. I HAVE HAD IT REPAIRED TWICE, AND THE SECOND REPAIR BY THE DEALER WAS TO PUT IN A LARGER VALUSE FUSE. THIS DOES NOT SEEM LIKE A PROPER REPAIR. I AM SURE THAT TERE IS STILL SOMETHING WRONG AND THAT AS IT CONTINUES TO DEGRADE I WILL BE LOCKED IN THE CAR AGAIN. IN AN ACCIDENT SITUATION THIS COULD BE DEADLY. *TT
IN JUNE OF 2011 MY BMW328I HAD INTERMITTENT START. I SENT THE VEHICLE TO A DEALER FOR SERVICE IN FREMONT. I WAS TOLD THAT THE VEHICLE DID NOT START BECAUSE OF THE BATTERY. BATTERY WAS REPLACED AT THIS TIME. TWO DAYS LATER, THE VEHICLE DID NOT START AGAIN, AFTER TESTING IT WAS DETERMINED BY FREMONT DEALER THAT THE PROBLEM WAS A FAULTY NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. AFTER CABLE REPLACEMENT, TODAY PROBLEM OCCURS AGAIN. *TR
DASHBOARD INDICATES, "ELECTRIC STEERING LOCK ENGAGED". CAR IS CURRENTLY DRIVABLE, HOWEVER THE DEALER HAS INFORMED ME THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED OFTEN IN THIS YEAR AND MODEL OF BMW, AND WILL CONTINUE TO WORSEN UNTIL THE CAR WILL NO LONGER TURN ON. THE MALFUNCTIONING FEATURE (STEERING WHEEL LOCK) HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM SUBSEQUENT MODELS, INDICATING THAT THE MANUFACTURER RECOGNIZES THE MALFUNCTION. REPAIR INCLUDES REPLACEMENT OF THE ENTIRE STEERING COLUMN, COST TO REPAIR IS APPROXIMATELY $1300. *TR
MY DOORS HAVE LOCKED AND WILL NOT UNLOCK WITHOUT A VERY EXPENSIVE REPAIR. I HAVE TO USE THE INTERNAL KEY FROM THE KEY FOB TO UNLOCK THE DRIVER DOOR BUT THERE IS NO WAY TO UNLOCK ANY OF THE OTHER DOORS. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328XI. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED WHEN HE NOTICED THAT NONE OF THE POWER LOCKS WERE FUNCTIONING. IN ORDER TO ENTER THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT HAD TO OPEN THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR MANUALLY BY USING THE KEY. WHEN THE CONTACT ENTERED THE VEHICLE HE NOTICED THAT NONE OF THE DOORS, EXCEPT THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WOULD OPEN FROM THE INTERIOR. THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WAS THE ONLY DOOR THAT COULD BE OPENED FROM THE INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE MAIN FUSE BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 65,000.
MY VEHICLE IS 2007 BMW 335I. ON 7/3/11, I WAS ON THE INTERSTATE GOING 70 MILES PER HOUR WHEN THE ENGINE WARNING LIGHT "ENGINE MALFUNCTION- REDUCED POWER" WAS ACTIVATED CAUSING THE VEHICLE SPEED TO ABRUPTLY REDUCE SPEED TO AROUND 20-30MPH. I HAD TO ACTIVATE HAZARD LIGHTS AND LIMP OFF INTERSTATE WHILE CAR WAS BUCKING, COUGHING, AND SPUTTERING. IT WAS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AS THE SUDDEN SLOW DOWN MIGHT HAVE HAPPENED ON A BUSIER INTERSTATE. I CALLED THE TOW TRUCK AND HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO A BMW CENTER WHERE THEY CLAIMED THEY REMOVED SOME SAND FROM THE THROTTLE BODY. BMW WANTED TO BLAME THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP, BUT REALIZED IT WAS REPLACED 3 WEEKS EARLIER DUE TO A RECALL, ALONG WITH AN "UPDATING" OF THE ENGINE CONTROL UNIT SOFTWARE AND REPLACING SOME INJECTORS. I NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH ENGINE UNTIL AFTER THESE RECALL "FIXES." THE CARE NOW LOSES POWER AND HAS TURBO ACCELERATION LAG. THESE SAME DANGEROUS ENGINE ISSUES HAVE HAPPENED ANOTHER 5 SINCE THE "FIX", ONLY A MONTH AGO. THIS IS A KNOWN BMW DEFECT! THIS VERY SAME ISSUE APPEARED QUITE OFTEN TO A NUMBER OF 335I OR OTHER BMW MODELS USING THE SAME ENGINE, IN PARTICULAR TO THE 07 AND 08 MODELS. MANY CAR OWNERS HAVE THE SAME ISSUE HAPPEN AFTER THEIR FUEL PUMP WAS REPLACED ONCE OR EVEN TWICE. IT SEEMS LIKE THERE IS NO FIX FOR THIS ISSUE AND IT POSES AS A TREMENDOUS DANGER FOR BMW DRIVERS WITH THIS SPECIFIC ENGINE SINCE YOU CANNOT BE CERTAIN WHEN THE PROBLEM WILL RE-OCCUR. A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT WAS FILED RECENTLY IN CALIFORNIA REGARDING THESE SAME ISSUES. WILL SOMEONE HAVE TO DIE BEFORE THE GOVERNMENT HOLDS BMW RESPONSIBLE? *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328XI. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING 65 MPH WHEN THE VEHICLE EXHIBITED AN ABNORMAL GRINDING NOISE WHILE DECELERATING INDEPENDENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO STATED THAT THE FUEL LINE WAS DISCONNECTED AND THE ENTIRE FUEL SYSTEM WOULD NEED REPLACING. THERE WERE NO RECALLS FOR THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED WHO OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 59,000. UPDATED 08/31/11 *BF THE CONSUMER STATED WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE PARKWAY AT 65 MPH, THE ENGINE ABRUPTLY SHUT DOWN. WHEN THE CONSUMER ATTEMPTED TO RESTART THE VEHICLE, THE STARTER TURNED OVER, BUT THE ENGINE WOULD NOT START. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER AND THEY DETERMINED THE FUEL PUMP FAILED. THE FUEL LINES HAD DISCONNECTED FROM THE FUEL PUMP. THE DEALER TEN STATED THE ONLY WAY TO REPLACE THE LINES, WAS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE FUEL TANK. UPDATED 09/12/11
SIB 51 19 07, CAR DOOR LOCKS FAILED AND WAS FORCED TO EXIT THROUGH WINDOW. *TR
MY DOORS HAVE LOCKED AND WILL NOT UNLOCK WITHOUT A VERY EXPENSIVE REPAIR. I HAVE TO USE THE INTERNAL KEY FROM THE KEY FOB TO UNLOCK THE DRIVER DOOR BUT THERE IS NO WAY TO UNLOCK ANY OF THE OTHER DOORS. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AS THE OTHER DOORS WILL NOT EVEN UNLOCK FROM INSIDE THE CAR. ALSO IF YOU PLAN ON HAVING ANY PASSENGERS THEY ALL HAVE TO GET IN THROUGH THE DRIVER DOOR, IF IN AN ACCIDENT THEY HAVE TO GET OUT OF THE DRIVER DOOR, THIS IS ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS AND WAS EXPENSIVE TO FIX! *TR
COMPONENT: LOCKING SYSTEM DRIVER-SIDE DOOR LOCK FAILED TO UNLOCK WHEN USING THE REMOTE ON THE KEY. REPLACED BLOWN FUSE. A DAY LATER SAME PROBLEM SURFACED, ONLY THIS TIME ALL 4 DOORS ARE NOT UNLOCKING (FIRST PUSH OF THE BUTTON ON THE REMOTE SHOULD UNLOCK DRIVER DOOR ONLY; SECOND PUSH OF BUTTON UNLOCKS THE OTHER 3 PASSENGER DOORS. REPLACED TWO BLOWN FUSES (#56 AND #57). PROBLEM IS RESOLVED, BUT ONLY FOR A DAY OR TWO. LONG-TERM FIX IS TO REPLACE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS ON ALL FOUR DOORS ACCORDING TO BMW'S OWN SERVICE BULLETIN. THE SAFETY ISSUE IS THAT THE DOORS ARE SUPPOSED TO OPEN MANUALLY FROM THE INSIDE WHEN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS UNABLE TO UNLOCK THEM. IN MY CASE, I WAS ONLY ABLE TO MANUALLY OPEN THE DRIVER-SIDE DOOR BY PULLING THE HANDLE ONCE TO UNLOCK, AND A SECOND TIME TO OPEN. THIS PROCEDURE DID NOT WORK ON ANY OTHER DOOR. I HAVE PURCHASED AN EMERGENCY HAMMER TO BREAK THE WINDOW FROM THE INSIDE IN CASE THIS HAPPENS AFTER AN ACCIDENT. ADDITIONAL INFO: THE GAS DOOR ALSO FAILS TO OPEN AS A RESULT OF THIS ISSUE. ONE HAS TO RELEASE THE GAS DOOR MANUALLY FROM INSIDE THE TRUNK.
NONE OF MY DOORS WILL UNLOCK IN MY 2007 328XI WITH ONLY 52,000 MILES. I HAVE TO ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW AND USE THE MANUAL KEY AND THEN IT ONLY UNLOCK MY DRIVER DOOR...ALL OTHER DOORS AND THE GAS TANK WILL NOT UNLOCK....NOT EVEN PULLING THE HANDLES FROM THE INTERIOR. THIS IS A VERY BAD DESIGN FLAW AND A MAJOR SAFETY HAZARD. I HAVE A 5 AND A 2 YEAR OLD. WHAT IF I WERE TO HAVE AN EMERGENCY WHERE MY BATTERY WERE TO DIE AND THE WINDOWS WERE UP. I AND MY CHILDREN WOULD PERISH IN THE HEAT OF OUR GEORGIA SUMMER. THE ENGINEERS NEED TO FIX THIS SAFETY HAZARD IMMEDIATELY OTHERWISE A LIFE IS GOING TO DIE! *TR
I HAVE A 2007 3 SERIES. PRIOR TO THAT, I OWNED A 2000 BMW 3 SERIES THAT NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM. I CAME OUT TO MY CAR AND WAS UNABLE TO UNLOCK THE DOOR WITH REMOTE. AFTER CHECKING TO MAKE SURE IT WASN'T THE BATTERY IN THE FOB, I THEN HAD TO MANUALLY USE KEY TO OPEN DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. THEN UPON BEING INSIDE CAR, I WAS UNABLE TO UNLOCK DOOR USING BUTTON ON DASH. MY CAR IS IN SHOP AND I AM TOLD IT IS A BLOWN FUSE NEEDING AN ACTUATOR REPLACED. I WAS TOLD IT'S ALSO AFFECTING MY GAS TANK, MEANING I WOULD BE UNABLE TO OPEN GAS TANK TO PUT IN GAS. AFTER RESEARCHING, THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH 2007 3 SERIES. AND A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE OF GETTING TRAPPED IN YOUR CAR. I AM REALLY UPSET I AM HAVING TO SHELL OUT MONEY FOR THIS, AS MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY. MY CAR IS IN MINT CONDITION WITH 25K MILES. I HOPE THIS WILL BE SERIOUSLY CONSIDERED FOR A RECALL AS THIS A POTENTIAL SAFETY HAZARD/LAW SUIT! *TR