2011 Buick Regal Complaint Log

The contact owns a 2011 Buick Regal. The contact stated that while driving at 30 MPH, the vehicle stalled with the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was able to be restarted. The dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 140,000.

I hit a deer going 60 mph and the airbag didn’t deploy, the service airbag light came on after I hit it. I’d assume that means the airbag tried to deploy but ran into an issue

The cars mileage was altered due to car being wrecked prior and the other car that was used to replace wrecked parts was hidden and vin number was altered. Copart Inc and ICT Sharp Rides are party's involved, I bought car on 12/28/2023 mileage was listed as 132525

Driver side headlamp draws moisture, keeps blowing bulbs at 104.99 a pop. Water gets in the headlight assembly and shorts out the ballast. This happens even when driving down the road at random. It could be pitch black and suddenly you have no headlights and are forced to drive with only fog lamps

The subframe rotted into rusted into

Preparing to park into a parking space in an off street parking lot the vehicle forcefully and rapidly accelerated on its' own and crashed into a fence. I was not accelerating. I attempted to stop the car using the brakes but they did not engage quickly enough to stop the rapid, forceful, and without warning acceleration. Buick has been contacted about the defect. Buick ran extensive diagnostics on the car and denies there is a defect. Police came to the scene and advised that given the 2 other incidents that I have experienced, the car is unsafe to drive given potential damage to others. A police report was filed.

When pulling into parking space the car rapidly accelerated on its' own and crashed into the car in the next parking space. I did not have my foot on the gas, the car was simply idling. The acceleration was so rapid that applying the brake was useless.

The two systems that failed are the airbag release on the front passenger side and the stabilitrak system. Both systems show error lights on the dash. The front seat passenger does not have airbag protection. The stabilitrak system error light appears intermittently and when the traction system goes off the car brakes almost stop the car while driving. We go to Royal Buick in Tucson, Arizona. We worked with Germaine Kendrick. I've attached the dealer service invoice dated April 14, 2023. The invoice summarized the problem and stated that 1) a new seatbelt assesmbly is needed and 2) the service technician states that they can not replicate or repair the traction problems. Today is June 11, 2023. We are still waiting for the seatbelt assembly to "arrive". There is no solution for the traction system. We have phoned and texted 4 times. The most recent conversation on June 5th with "Chris" was interesting; Chris stated that the seatbelt part was NEVER ORDERED and furthermore, is not needed to repair the airbag warning light problem.

Front subframe rotted out where my control arm connects. Cannot safetly drive. There should be a recall on this part. There isnt one so now im stuck paying to fix it. Rear coil spring cracked, cannot fix due to recall of all gm coil spring. Cannot buy new part to fix it.

Condensation gets into headlight assembly and shorts out HID headlight. Issue occurred with drivers and passenger headlights. Car will not have headlights because of short. Thus causing a safety issue.

Moisture has been collecting in both headlight assemblies for the past 3 years, whenever the car is outside or driven in the rain. Recently, this caused both high/low beam headlights to burn out. Replacing the bulbs is not enough, as the bulbs immediately burn out/smoke and blow out because of the water accumulation. On the driver side headlight, there was actually standing water in the headlight assembly that came pouring out when the cover was removed to replace the bulb. Dealership says both headlight assemblies must be replaced entirely to resolve the issue, due to corrosion. The vehicle has never been in an accident (there are NO cracks from collision, etc.). This appears to be a manufacturing defect or an issue with seal. This is a crazy expensive repair, to have to have the entire headlights replaced on the vehicle, on both sides, because they are not properly sealed/allow condensation and accumulation of water to take place. Can GM please cover the cost of this? Otherwise, this might be the last GM car I ever buy... This is also a major safety issue, as one must have working headlamps. Without an entirely new headlight assembly on each side, the lightbulbs, when replaced, burn out unexpectedly almost immediately, within weeks of replacement.

After heavy rain in mid-September 2022, both headlights just stopped working. The dashboard will usually display a warning or pop up symbol that something is not working, but I had no warning and got pulled over driving at dusk with no headlights. There has been been other issues with this vehicle too! The other issues include: Bluetooth connection not working at all, the transmission has “jerking” issues while changing gears and the engine revving too high while only going 30mph while driving in suburban Massachusetts. The car has less than 70k miles, these issues should not be happening. The main issue is the headlights, considering they cost around $200/ea and just stopped working with no notice.

Driving 50km per hr, went over railway crossing, then the car became unstable, rear felt loose as if it was drifting. Stopped the car had a look under the cars driver side rear end, and noticed the bar connecting tire the rest of vehicle was fractured, don't know the exact name of it. The car only has a out 145000 km on it. I live in Canada. The consumer has stated that the rear tow link was the part that was broken.

I was driving on a back road when my car started smoking and blazed up on passenger side headlights an I see were people have been saying this was seriously fire issue now I'm out of work no car and I was only owner fa 5 months

MIL Lamp is illuminated and cannot be turned off or reset. The code displayed on the scanner is for P2138 "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D/E Voltage Correlation." There is also a "Reduced Engine Power" message on the dashboard. Available for inspection upon request. My safety was put at risk before the vehicle was serviced because the car shut down in the middle of the street with cars behind me. I called a certified mechanic to successfully service the vehicle and he cleared the code. My safety was put at risk again after the car was serviced because the code came back on as I was driving on the highway. Car lost power and speed and as I tried to get the car pulled over with emergency lights on, I was almost hit from behind by 2 other drivers. Problem can be reproduced within 10 minutes. Per the mechanic's request, I am taking my car to a Buick Century GMC dealership on 7/16 @ 12 PM to be serviced. Warning symptoms before code came on happened especially during times of rainfall. Car hesitated to pick up speed. Overconsumption of gas resulting in decreased mileage.

The contact owns a 2011 Buick Regal. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 25 MPH, there was a squeaking noise coming from the wheels and the vehicle was driving very loosely. The contact noticed that the lower control arm in the rear of the vehicle was fractured. The contact was a certified mechanic and diagnosed that the rear suspension needed to be replaced. The dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 180,000.

In July of 2018, the brake pedal started to stick in the "on" position. The car was not driveable once the brakes stuck. It seemed to be associated with very hot weather. I replaced the entire brake pedal assembly with a factory brake pedal assembly. Now, in January of 2022, the replacement assembly is starting to bind. This appears to be a defective part. There are many postings on the internet about this problem. It is a safety defect because it involves the vehicle's brakes and the car is not driveable when the pedal sticks.

2011 Buick Regal 2.0 CXL. The brake pedal is sticking, causing the rotors to heat up and wear out. There are numerous complaints from others online detailing the dangerous situations this has caused. And numerous complaints about getting the brake system replaced and the same problem still existing. There should have been a recall. Unknown to me, until I received the new title in my name, this particular car was branded a "Lemon" in 2014.

Broken left side rear lateral toe link causing severe vehicle stability issue. Subsequent inspection of right side shows initial crack in same area.

The contact owns a 2011 Buick Regal. The contact stated while driving approximately 10 MPH, the vehicle shut off without warning. The vehicle was able to be restarted but continued to experience the same symptoms. The contact stated no warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was towed to a local dealer where it was diagnosed with needing the transmission replaced. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 69,000.

When I shift the car from park to drive it does a VERY HARD jerk. And vehicle has no codes on dash or anything

Drivers side lightbulb has been changed multiple times. Noticeable condensation in light itself. Driving at night and lights went out completely. Had to drive with only fog lights on. Issue happens sporadically and without warning so it is hard to address.

The contact owns a 2011 Buick Regal. The contact stated that after a rainstorm, moisture entered the driver’s side headlight housing causing the bulb to blow. The contact discovered NHTSA Campaign Number: 12V484000 (Exterior Lighting) which he linked to the failure however, the Vin was not included. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.

While the vehicle was driving, there was a loss of power, at that moment sparks was seen emanating from under the hood, then the vehicle completely stopped running. Once pulled over smoke was bellowing out from the hood and subsequently ignited into flames. Fire department was dispatched and fire was extinguished. The vehicle was towed away and is still at the tow yard. The tow operator, based on visual inspection stated the fire did start in the engine compartment and spread to the fire wall, totaling the vehicle.

The vehicle exhibited what appeared to be sticking brakes after driving in extreme heat and humidity in Southwest Florida. I have taken the vehicle to Family Auto Service Cenber, 4570 Samuel St., Sarasota, FL 34233, Phone: (941) 925-4889. I was advised by Ray, the owner, that the brake pedal assembly was in danger of becoming unttached thereby making braking impossible and an obvious safety hazard. He stated that it was covered in TSB 5692D. Total loss of the abilibty to stop the car is possible with this defect.

The engine shuts off when I slow down to make a left turn,this has happened twice. It does start again. I am afraid to drive it know.

Front headlamp burned out due to moisture in the assembly. There is an issue with the ballast in the headlamp assembly for the turbo model. The seal may be faulty due to the headlamp shorting out except for the daytime running lights. I realized that it had malfunctioned and there was moisture in the assembly itself. My repair shop quoted $1500.00 for the repair/replacement as the whole assebly needs to be replaced. This is definitely a safety hazard and a common one for this make and model. This should be a recall due to the faulty headlamp assembly.

The car doesn’t stay on park still will move forward or backwards The gear shift locks and does not move When I turn it makes a huge clack sound

ISSUE: BRAKE PEDAL WILL STIFFEN AND SLOW THE CAR DOWN. THE STEERING WHEEL COLUMN WILL VIOLENTLY SHAKE, AS IF THE CALIPERS ARE STUCK. ONCE PARKED, WHEELS ARE HOT AND OMITS A BURNING SMELL. NARRATIVE: After the car is sitting in the sun, while driving in slow traffic the car is running rough, steering wheel starts shaking back and forth, the brakes start making noise when you stop. When accelerated there is grinding noise and dash light comes on. I pulled to the side of the road and turned off the car for five minutes, I start the car and it runs as normal. This was happening for a few weeks. I had the brakes replaced on 05/19/21 (I paid $737.66 for the brake job). I drove the car for a couple of weeks and brakes seized. I had to have the car towed back to shop (costing me $135.63) and the shop quoted brake pedal replacement. At that point I took the car to the Everett, WA, Clyde Revord Buick Dealership and they replaced the modular for the brake (part # 22997391) and it was expenive because it required removing the dash board and a lot of labor time (costing me another $1347.31). I feel this is a safety hazaard as my brakes could have seized or a fire could have broke out while I was driving on the freeway. Fortunately, the brakes seized in a parking lot. I did some research on this topic and see that it is a common flaw for this make and model and should be covered by the manufacturer as a recall before someone gets killed.

DURING PERIODS OF HIGH HEAT (AND ONLY HIGH HEAT) AFTER BEING PARKED IN THE SUN, WHEN THE VEHICLE IS BEING DRIVEN AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS, THE BRAKE PEDAL WILL STIFFEN AND SLOW THE CAR DOWN. THE STEERING WHEEL COLUMN WILL VIOLENTLY SHAKE, AS IF THE CALIPERS ARE STUCK. ONCE PARKED, ALL FOUR WHEELS ARE HOT AND OMITS A BURNING SMELL. I HAVE REPLACED TWO TIRES, 2 FRONT CALIPERS, FRONT BRAKE PADS, ALL HOSES AND FRONT ROTORS TO NO AVAIL. BRAKE BOOSTER AND MASTER CYLINDER HAVE BEEN CHECKED AND ARE NOT THE ISSUE. ALL POSSIBLE ISSUES HAVE BEEN ADDRESSED WITHIN THE LAST 8 WEEKS. FRIDAY (05/14/21) THE SAME ISSUE HAPPENED AGAIN. I AM AT MY WITS END TRYING TO RESOLVE THIS ISSUE.

The contact owns a 2011 Buick Regal. The contact stated while driving 30 MPH and accelerating to enter the highway, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated that the traction, stability, and engine power reduced warning lights were illuminated. The contact stated she was able to park on the side of the road for 30 minutes before continuing to drive to her destination. The contact took the vehicle to the local dealer however, the mechanic was unable to diagnose the cause of the failure. The contact also stated that she was unable to open the doors due to the battery not charging. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.

I AM HAVING A BRAKING PROBLEM WITH MY 2011 REGAL CLX TURBO. MY BRAKES DO NOT SEEM TO BE RELEASING WHEN THE CAR HAS BEEN SITTING OUTSIDE AND THE TEMPERATURE IS HIGH. STEERING WHEEL SHAKES WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES AND EVEN WHEN THE BRAKES ARE RELEASED. THE BRAKE PEDAL AND OR PARKING BRAKE DOES NOT DISENGAGING ON THE BUICK REGAL 2011.

ENGINES STARTED TO PUTTER. THEN ENGINE POWER REDUCED CAME ON. CAR DIED THEN THE SERVICE STABILITRAK CAME ON

HEADLIGHT KEEPS BURNING OUT. IT HAS BEEN REPLACED 5 TIMES ALSO DRIVER SEAT HEATING WORKS FOR 1 MIN AND TURNS OFF

FAULTY HEADLAMP ALLOWING WATER TO ACCUMULATE AND SHORT OUT BALLAST. THIS IS A $1300 PART THAT SHOULD NOT BE GOING OUT LIKE THIS.

WHEN DRIVING TO THE GROCERY STORE ONE DAY THE CAR WASN'T ACCELERATING PROPERLY. WHEN O LEAVE THE STORE THE CAR WON'T MOVE WHEN IN REVERSE, THE ENGINE WILL REV BUT NO MOVEMENT. GOT THE DIAGNOSTIC DONE AND WITH LESS THEN 59000 MILES MY TRANSMISSION FAILED.

ENGINE TIMING FAILURE DUE TO FAULTY CHAIN TENSIONER AT 81000 MILES (2/15/2020) ENGINE CONSUMES EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF OIL BETWEEN CHANGES

BURNING OIL ON A 2.4L EQUINOX ENGINE

VEHICLE HAS SERIOUS OIL CONSUMPTION ISSUES. WILL BURN AS MUCH AS 3 OR MORE QUARTS IN 1000 MILES OR LESS. WAS NOTIFIED BY CHEVROLET MECHANIC THAT SOME OIL CONSUMPTION WAS NORMAL, BUT THAT IF THE CONSUMPTION WAS EXCESSIVE THAT I WOULD HAVE TO PAY UP TO $3500 OR MORE TO FIX THE CAR. THERE ISN'T A RECALL OUT ON THIS MAKE AND MODEL, BUT ALL CARS EQUIPPED WITH THIS 2.4L ECOTECH ENGINE HAD THE SAME ISSUES FROM THE RESEARCH I CONDUCTED. THE MECHANIC I TALKED TO SAID THAT THIS WAS A KNOWN ISSUE DUE TO A DEFECT IN THE PISTON RINGS ALLOWING OIL TO REACH THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER. SOMETIMES EVEN THE FUMES COME INTO THE CAR AND THEY ARE PRETTY HARSH TO BREATHE IN.

I NOTICED THAT THE CAR WAS RESISTING ACCELERATION A LITTLE BIT, HAVE 48,545 MILES ON IT AND TOOK IT FOR OIL CHANGE WITH FUEL INJECTION CLEANER AND FULL TANK OF GOOD GAS. GOT ON HIGHWAY AND THE ACCELERATION DIED COMPLETELY AND NO GAS WAS GETTING THROUGH, LIKE FLOORING IT IN NEUTRAL. PULLED OFF THE SIDE AND IT RESTARTED BUT CONTINUED DYING ALONG THE WAY IF I TRY TO ACCELERATE.

DRIVING MY CAR AT AROUND 30MPH, THE CAR COMPLETELY SHUTS OFF WITHOUT WARNING. THERE IS NO SHUTTER OR SOUND. IT IS JUST SUDDENLY COMPLETELY TURNED OFF. NO BRAKES. NO POWER STEERING. NO GAS. YOU MUST PULL THE CAR OVER. COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. PUT THE CAR IN PARK. TURN THE KEY COMPLETELY OFF, AND THEN THE CAR WILL RESTART ALMOST EVERY TIME. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME 5 TIMES IN THE 9 YEARS THAT I HAVE OWNED IT. BUT IT HAS HAPPENED 3 TIMES IN THE LAST 3 DAYS. NO MECHANIC NOR THE DEALER CAN IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM. I HAVE REPLACED THE SERPENTINE BELT TWICE, AND THE THROTTLE BODY/THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.

BRAKE PEDAL STUCK PARTIALLY DEPRESSED AND BRAKES NOT FULLY RELEASING. STARTED IMMEDIATELY UPON VEHICLE IGNITION AFTER THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN PARKED IN THE SUN ON A HOT DAY. CAR BECOMES UNSAFE TO DRIVE AS EITHER YOU ACCELERATE WITH BRAKES ENGAGED OR HAVE TO MANUALLY LIFT THE BRAKE PEDAL TO THE CORRECT POSITION TO RELEASE THE BRAKES AFTER EVERY INSTANCE OF USING THE BRAKE. SEEMS TO BE TRIGGERED BY HOT WEATHER AND, THEREFORE, HIGH CAR TEMPERATURE. SAME ISSUE OCCURRED IN 2018 BUT WAS NOT RECOGNIZED AT THE TIME AND COULD NOT BE RECREATED OR DIAGNOSED BY A DEALER SERVICE CENTER.

Headlight assembly case on both passenger and driver side fills with condensation and then causes headlight bulb and/or ballast to burnout ,this also could cause a fire

TIMING CHAIN DAMAGED ENGINE

CALLED LOCAL DEALERSHIP FOR A FEW RECALLS,THEY SAID THEY HAD TO ORDER THE PARTS FOR RECALLS SO WHEN THEY GOT THE PARTS THEY CALLED AND SET ME A TIME TO GET THEM FIXED WELL WHEN I GOT THERE THEY SAID THAT IT ONLY HAD 1 RECALL AND THEY HAD TO ORDER THE PART THAT WAS ALREADY SUPPOSED TO HAVE BEEN ORDERED TO BEGAN WITH AND THEY WOULD CALL WHEN THEY GET THE PART IN "STILL WAITING ON THAT CALL" THE VEHICLE HAS 97000 MILES AND IS ALSO BURNING OIL FAST AND SMOKING OUT THE EXHAUST,THEY SAID IT WAS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THERE IS NO RECALL ON THE ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION ON THIS VEHICLE BECAUSE ITS VIN SPECIFIC SO THE BILL WOULD BE ON ME TO HAVE THE ENGINE TORE DOWN TO SEE WHAT IS CAUSING IT TO BURN OIL BUT I NO IT'S BECAUSE OF PREMATURE WEAR OF THE PISTON RINGS AFTER THE RESEARCH I HAVE DONE ON THESE ENGINES SO FAR BUT WHAT EVER THE CASE THEY HAVE YET TO CALL ME BACK AND IT'S BEEN ALMOST 2 MONTHS NOW NOT SURE WHAT TO DO AT THIS POINT.

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE CITY ROAD AND MY CAR JUST SHUT OFF AND LOST ALL POWER TO EVERYTHING. I ALMOST GOT HIT. I THEN TURNED MY CAR BACK ON AND THE SERVICE STABILITY TRAC LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS FLASHING. I COULD NEARLY GET IT TO GO AT ALL AND MY CAR WAS SHAKING AND SPUTTERING. IT WAS THE SCARIEST THING I HAVE EVER DEALT WITH. I HAD IT PUT IN THE SHOP ON 10/26/2018 AND NOW IT JUST HAPPENED TO ME AGAIN AND ITS 03/26/2020.

TIMING CHAIN LOOSENED DUE TO TENSIONER BREAKING DUE TO THE BOLT HOLDING IT IN PLACE WIDENING THE HOLE IT WAS IN OVER TIME CAUSING THE CAR TO JUMP TIME AND POSSIBLY BENDING ALL THE VALVES IN THE MOTOR. CAR WAS BEING DRIVEN ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN IT STALLED AND SHUT OFF. WE HAD JUST MADE A TURN SO LUCKILY WE WERE NOT GOING FAST WHEN THIS HAPPENED. NO WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON. NO CODES CAME UP ON THE COMPUTER EITHER WHEN CHECKED.

UPON BRINGING MY CAR IN FOR A P10011 CODE (THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON), THE DEALERSHIP STATED THAT THE TIMING CHAIN ON MY CAR WAS STRETCHED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. IT COST OVER $1900 TO FIX.

DRIVING ON HIGHWAY 95 AND CAR BRAKES SEEMED TO VIBRATE ,CAR DROPPED INTO STABIL TRAK/TRACTION MODE !I WAS GOING ABOUT 30-40 MILES PER HOUR THERE WAS HEAVY TRAFFIC I PULLED OVER TRIED TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS TO TAKE STABILITY TRAC OFF AND CAR LOCKED ITSELF I AM CURRENTLY HAVING IT TOWED

TIMING BELT TENSIONER BROKE WHICH CAUSE TIMING CHAIN REPLACEMENT AT 125K