NHTSA Owner Complaint Log
This page lists owner-reported complaints filed with NHTSA for the 2011 Chevrolet Cruze. Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA and do not by themselves prove a defect or defect rate.
Data synced from NHTSA on May 4, 2026
WAS DRIVING UP HILL ON INTERSTATE AND LOST POWER. MADE IT TO A PARKING LOT AND DID NOT HAVE ANY REVERSE AND ONLY 1ST AND 2ND GEAR WHEN DRIVING FORWARD. DID A DIAGNOSTIC REPORT WITH ONSTAR. THEY GAVE ME CODES P0776 AND P0700. I HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED.
MOST OTHER GMC AND CHEVY MODELS WERE RECALLED FOR THIS, BUT NOT THIS ONE. IT CLEARLY IS AN ISSUE HERE AS WELL. THE IGNITION CYLINDER LOCK JAMMED. THE KEY WAS STUCK INSIDE AND UNABLE TO TURN OFF THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY, LEAVING IT ON BATTERY MODE.
I HAVE BEEN BATTLING MY COOLING SYSTEM FOR THE LAST YEAR RADIATOR KEEP RUNNING HOT I HAVE GOTTEN MY THERMOSTAT DONE AND OTHER THINGS ALSO. I HAVE BEEN ON THE ROAD AND IT WILL RUN HOT, MORE THAN ONCE
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, WHEN THE CONTACT RELEASED THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, THE VEHICLE STOPPED ABRUPTLY. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO DAVID STANLEY CHEVROLET (LOCATED AT 614 W INTERSTATE 240 SERVICE RD, OKLAHOMA CITY, OK 73139, (405) 632-3600), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 43,163. *TR*JB
THE CAR ONLY HAS 123K AND THE TRANSMISSION HAS GONE OUT SINCE DAY ONE THIS CAR HAS HAD ISSUES, INTAKE MANIFOLD REPLACED TWICE
ABOUT A WEEK AGO I WAS DRIVING HOME WHEN MY CAR DECIDED TO SHIFT SUPER HARD AND MY RPM WAS JUMPING UP SCARY HIGH THEN MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TURNED ON AND NOW IT WON'T SHIFT RIGHT OR MY RPM GOES UP REALLY HIGH THE CODE THAT POPPED UP WAS P0700
WHILE DRIVING MY 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE LT WHEN IT GETS T0 BETWEEN 30-40 MPH THE RPMS WILL GO EXTREMELY HIGH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON AND THE CAR WILL SLOW DOWN AS IT IS SLOWING DOWN IT WILL JERK INTO THE LOWER GEARS IF I DON'T PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL. SINCE I DON'T HAVE A READER FOR THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT I HAVE TO PULL OVER AND DISCONNECT MY BATTERY TO GET THAT TO SHUT OFF. I HAVE TO LET MY CAR ENGINE/TRANSMISSION COOL DOWN BEFORE DRIVING AGAIN OTHERWISE I WILL ONLY MAKE IT EIGHTH OF A MILE DOWN THE ROAD AND THE SAME THING HAPPENS. I WANT THIS PROBLEM FIXED. I OFFICIALLY HATE MY CAR BECAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM. MAKES ME NEVER WANT TO BUY A CHEVROLET AGAIN. I HAVE SEEN MAY COMPLAINTS OF THIS HAPPENING TO THIS YEAR OF CAR. THIS SHOULD BE RECALLED AND FIXED FREE OF CHARGE.
SPILLING AND DRIPPING OIL COLLECTED IN THE OIL PAN NEAR THE HOT ENGINE APPEARS TO BE ASSOCIATED WITH THE ENGINE OR OIL COOLER. BURNS AND SMELLS AS IF SOMETHING MAY CAUSE A FIRE.
MY CAR NEEDS 4 FUEL INJECTORS AND GAGE WAS STUCK OPEN A DRIVING HAZARD. OIL HAS NEEN LEAKING AROUND VALVE COVERS AMD REPLACED BUT DO SMELL BURNING TIME TO TIME GOT COOLAMT LEAK FIXED LAST YEAR.
HAVE A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE THAT I BOUGHT A FEW YEARS AGO, FROM CARMAX. SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR A FEW YEARS AGO, MY CAR HAS ALWAYS BEEN VERY WARM ON THE DRIVERS SIDE FOOT AREA, AND WHERE MY LEG RESTS THERE IS A PANEL ON THE RIGHT OF THE GAS PEDDLE THAT IS WHERE THE HEAT COMES FROM. I HAVE BROUGHT MY CAR A FEW TIMES TO THE DEALERSHIP AFTER I NOTICED HOW HOT IT GOT IN THAT AREA. OVER 130F! (I GAVE UP AT THIS TIME,) LAST WEEK, MY WIFE HAD A SMALL REAR END CRASH ON MY CAR. NOTHING MAJOR BUT WE TOOK IT TO THE BODY SHOP TO GET WORK ON. WHEN I BROUGHT THE CAR IN TO THEM, I ASKED THEM IF THEY CAN PUT SOME NEW INSULATION PIPE ON MY CAR HEAT PIPES, BECAUSE THE OLD ONES WERE PROBABLY NEEDING TO BE REPLACED. WHEN THE REPLACED IT AND MY CAR WAS READY FOR PICK UP, THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY PUT THE NEW INSULATION ON IT, BUT THEY SHOWED ME THE OLD ONE. THE OLD ONE WAS BURNT AND THEY SAID COULD HAVE ALMOST CAUGHT FIRE THOSE PIPES. ALONG WITH THE SIDE PANEL WAS WARPING DUE TO THE AMOUNT OF HEAT COMING OUT OF THERE. I TOLD THEM AT THE TIME, THAT ITS A SAFETY ISSUE, BUT THEY SAID BECAUSE MY WARRANTY IS EXPIRED FROM YEARS AGO, THEY HAVE TO CHARGE ME FOR INSPECTING IT, FROM THERE IF THEY FIND A ISSUE THEN WE CAN DISCUSS WITH GM WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO HANDLE TO REPAIRS AND COSTS. (I TOLD THEM I WOULD GET BACK TO THEM ABOUT THAT.)
WELL IT WOULD KIND OF STALL WHEN I BEGAN TO GIVE IT GAS THE RPMS WOULD GO UP N REV BUT IT DIDN'T KICK N GO FOR A MIN THAN IT WOULD BE OK UNTIL U STOPPED JBSTARTED TO GO AGAIN THAN ONE DAY I WAS DRIVING N THE DRIVE WENT COMPLETELY OUT ON ME SO IT GOES IN EVERY GEAR BUT WON'T DRIVE
MULTIPLE ISSUES WITH PCV SYSTEM CAUSING CAR TO RUN ROUGH. THIS ISSUE IS A KNOWN ISSUE AFFECTING ALMOST ALL CRUZES WORLDWIDE THAT GM REFUSES TO FIX. HAS NOT BEEN REPAIRED DUE TO COSTS. THIS ALSO CAN CAUSE OIL LEAKS WHICH CAN START A FIRE.
ME AND MY KIDS WERE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY WHEN MY 2011 CHEVY CRUISE JUST LOST POWER AND MY ENGINE STOPPED WORKING... IT WILL NOT START UP AT ALL. MECHANIC CANT FIGURE OUT WHY. I'VE GOT TONS OF SENSORS GOING OUT EVERYTIME I TURN AROUND AND I AM A MOTHER OF A DISABLED SON. WE WERE ON AT PARKWAY GOING 65 TO 60 MPH. IT COULD HAVE BEEN VERY BAD. IT HAPPENED ED IN MADISON VILLE KY
TRANSMISSION ISSUES IN THESE CARS AND GENERAL MOTORS ONLY MADE THEM FOR ONE YOUR KNOWINGLY THERE WAS AN ISSUE AND DON'T WANT TO RECALL THE ISSUE. THESE TRANSMISSIONS ARE SUPER EXPENSIVE DUE TO ONLY BEING MADE FOR ONE YEAR.
CAR SEEMS TO STALL WHILE DRIVING (RECURRENT/ CONSTANT PROBLEM FOR 4 MONTHS: CAR HAS < 65K MILES). ENGINE/ LOSS OF STABILITRACK LIGHTS COME ON AND ENGINE REVS HIGH WITHOUT SPEED. LIGHTS ON RADIO BLINK AND ENGINE/OIL/ COOLANT LEAKS. DESPITE ATTEMPTS TO FIX PROBLEMS, CAR CONTINUES TO STALL OUT, LEAVING DRIVER STRANDED IN ROADWAY. ENGINE REBOOTS ARE TEMPORARY FIX, BUT THE COMPUTER SEEMS TO BE TAKING OUT SYSTEMS 1 BY 1. GM SPECIALIST HAD CAR FOR 2 WEEKS IN JANUARY & COULD NOT SOLVE.
COOLANT LEAK FROM THERMOSTAT HOUSING OCCURING SLOWLY OVER TIME. DEPLETED COOLANT RESERVOIR CAUSED THE ENGINE TO OVERHEAT AFTER DRIVING FOR ABOUT SEVEN MINUTES. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN PULLED OVER ON THE FREEWAY SHOULDER AND THE COOLANT ADDED. MESSAGES SUCH AS "AC OFF DUE TO HIGH ENGINE TO HIGH ENGINE TEMP" "HIGH COOLANT TEMP" "ENGINE TEMP HIGH-IDLE ENGINE" APPEARED WITH NO RESOLUTION. THERMOSTAT HOUSING WAS NOT CONNECTED AND SPEWING COOLANT ONTO OVERHEATING ENGINE CAUSING SMOKE/STEAM. VEHICLE WAS REQUIRED TO BE TOWED FROM THE LOCATION.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING BETWEEN 25 TO 50 MPH, THE AIR BAG AND SERVICE AIR BAG WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 118,900.
TAKATA RECALL. RECENTLY WHILE DRIVING, MY CAR WILL RANDOMLY SAY SERVICE STABILITRAK OR SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL WHENEVER I TURN THE WHEEL BACKING UP BUT WASN'T AFFECTING THE CAR IN ANY WAY AS FAR AS I COULD TELL. MY HEADLIGHTS WOULD ALSO FLICKER AT THE SAME TIME SO I FIGURED IT HAD TO BE SOMETHING ELECTRICAL. YESTERDAY WHILE TURNING ONTO A DIFFERENT STREET AND TODAY WHILE DRIVING STRAIGHT DOWN A STREET I LOST POWER STEERING.
MY CAR IS HARD SHIFTING AND NO GM DEALER CAN FIGURE IT OUT THEY SAY NOTHING BUT TAKE MY MONEY AND MY CAR WILL ALERT TRANSMISSION HOT IDLE ENGINE VERY SCARY HAS EVEN UP AND STOPPED GOING 35 MILES IN MY HOMETOWN
I WENT AND GOT THIS VEHICLE FROM CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP RAM OF ROME GA AND I WAS DRIVING AND OUT OF NOWHERE THE CAR ACTED LIKE IT DIDN'T WANT TO GO FORWARD IN TRAFFIC AND THE SPEED STAYED ON 0 AND IDLED OUT ON ME. WHEN I TRIED TO TURN RIGHT MY CAR WOULDN'T GO AND SOMEBODY HAD TO PUSH MY VEHICLE. WHEN I TRIED TO DRIVE IT, IT WAS IN DRIVE AND WOULDN'T GO 20 MPH. I GOT THE VEHICLE MARCH 13 AND HAVEN'T HAD IT FOR A MONTH AND EXPERIENCED THIS.IT WAS A VERY SCARY SITUATION AND I FELT LIKE I COULD HAVE LOST MY LIFE. I WAS TRYING TO TURN AND PUT OF NOWHERE IT WOULDN'T GO OVER 20 MPH.MOST SCARIEST SIRTIATION EVRER..
WHEN SLOWING TO A STOP FROM 2ND GEAR, THE CAR SHIFTS HARD AND JERKS BACK WHEN SHIFTING DOWN INTO FIRST GEAR. OFTEN TIMES, WHEN ACCELERATING FROM A STOP, THE CAR DOESN'T ACTUALLY GET POWER; THE RPMS JUMP TO ABOUT 6000 AND THE CAR DOESN'T MOVE. WHILE DRIVING, IT FEELS LIKE TENSION AGAINST THE GAS PEDAL WHILE THE CAR FEELS LIKE IT'S DRAGGING BACK AND BOGGING DOWN (THE RPMS DON'T INDICATE BOGGING, BUT THAT'S WHAT IT FEELS LIKE). WHEN IT FINALLY CATCHES A GEAR, IT JERKS BACKWARDS AND ALMOST FEELS LIKE IT'S GOING TO STALL OUT.
ENGINE LOSSES POWER ON THE HIGHWAY. ALMOST STUMBLING AROUND TO GET POWER BACK. HAVE TO ADD MULTIPLE PINTS OF OIL BETWEEN OIL CHANGES.
I HAVE SEVERAL ISSUES WITH THIS CAR I HAVE A MECHANIC LOOKING AT IT NOW AND I CAN GIVE YOU A DETAILED REPORT OF EVERY THING HE FINDS WRONG WITH IT WHEN HE IS DONE I DO KNOW THAT I LOSS ENGINE POWER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREET WHILE WAITING TO TURN AT A LIGHT
2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. CONSUMER WRITES SEEKING INFORMATION ABOUT ANY RECALLS ISSUED FOR THIS VEHICLE. *LD *TR
THE INTERIOR DOOR HANDLE CHROME PEELS AND CAUSED DEEP CUT TO FINGER.
MY LIGHTING HAS BEEN MESSED UP SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR. ALL MY LIGHTS RANDOMLY DIM, MY BREAK LIGHTS FLICKER LIKE THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM. MY TURBO HAS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT, BUT NO CODES. THE CAR DOESN'T ACCELERATE LIKE IT'S SUPPOSED TO. ALL THIS OCCURS WHEN MOVING. BREAKS OBVIOUSLY WHENEVER HIT THE BREAKS.
I DROVE MY 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE TO WORK WITHOUT ISSUE. UPON LEAVING I STARTED MY MY VEHICLE, PUT IT IN REVERSE AND BACKED OUT OF MY PARKING SPOT BUT IT WOULD NOT DRIVE FORWARD. I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO MY HOME. THE NEXT DAY IT WOULD NOT START UP ENTIRELY.
IT'S BEEN ONE YEAR AND MY CHEVY CRUZE HAS OVERHEATED TWICE. THE FIRST TIME THE THERMOSTAT WAS WRONG ALONG WITH THE THERMO PIPE THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AND NOW SIMILAR ISSUE IS HAPPENING WHERE MY CAR SMELLS FUNNY, I TURN THE HEAT IN AND THE CAR WILL START TO OVER HEAT AND NEVER WARM THE CAR.
WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY A MESSAGE SAYING REDUCED ENGINE POWER CAME ON AND VEHICLE WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. ALSO THE SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON WITH IT AND SERVICE STABILITRAK CAME ON AS WELL.
THERE'S A PLASTIC GEAR INSIDE THE DASH THAT CHANGES THE HVAC MODE FROM VENT TO DEFROST. THAT GEAR BECOMES BRITTLE AND SNAPS CAUSING LOSS OF WINDOW DEFROST TO PREVENT WINDOW FOGGING. THIS BECOMES DANGEROUS WHEN DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND UNABLE TO CLEAR THE WINDOW FOGGING.
THE KEY FOB HOLDING THE KEY IN THE IGNITION BROKE, LEAVING THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, UNABLE TO TURN OFF OR TURN ON THE VEHICLE.
THE HEATED SEAT ON THE DRIVER SIDE SHORTED OUT AND BURNED THE BACK OF THE SEAT
ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND CAR WILL SLOW DOWN AND BARELY TAKE OFF. ENGINE IS RESPONDING TO GAS PEDAL BUT NO POWER IN LOW GEAR SO TAKES OFF VERY SLOW NEARLY RESULTING IN WRECK. TWO SHOPS, INCLUDING TRANSMISSION SHOP, STATE ITS ELECTRONIC PROBLEM INCLUDING 'LACK OF COMMUNICATION'. IT HAPPENS FROM BEING STATIONARY OR IN PROCESS OF DRIVING WHEN IT LOSES POWER SUDDENLY. WHEN ENGINE LIGHT GOES OFF IT RUNS OK. DANGEROUS TO DRIVE AS NEVER KNOW WHEN IT'LL ACT UP. STARTED ABOUT SIX MONTHS AGO, AND IS INTERMITTENT.
NO REIMBURSEMENT FOR SAME ISSUE, SAME ERROR CODE. IF I'M BEING TOLD BY DIFFERENT BODY SHOPS THAT THEY CONTINUALLY SEE THE SAME ISSUE WITH CHEVY CRUZE'S, BEING THE LOSS OF TURBO BOOST. SHOULDN'T IT BE A PART OF THE RECALL FOR 2013&14 OR AT LEAST BE MADE A RECALL ITSELF. MINE IS A 2011 WITH THE SAME ERROR CODE READ AS THE RECALL WITH 2013'S. MY TURBO WAS REPLACED RIGHT BEFORE THANKSGIVING. HAPPY HOLIDAYS SMH!
DIRECT IMPACT WITH 1200 POUND COW WHILE DRIVING ON A STATE HIGHWAY, THE AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY. ENTIRE CAR ENGULFED IN FLAMES AS THE ENGINE IMMEDIATELY STARTED FIRE. TOTALLED. WHY DIDN'T THE AIRBAG DEPLOY? SERIOUS INJURY. SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. I HAVE PURCHASED 2 CRUZE'S BECAUSE OF THE SAFETY FEATURES. THIS IS SO NOT SAFE AND SO UNACCEPTABLE
THE CAR ENGINE HAS SHUT OFF TWICE IN 2 WEEKS WHILE MAKING A RIGHT TURN ON AN INCLINE. I SLOWED DOWN TO MAKE THE TURN/CURVE AND THEN STEPPED ON THE GAS AND THE CAR DIED. THE DASH AND RADIO STAY ON, BUT NO POWER TO ENGINE. NO SERVICE LIGHTS STAY LITE ON THE DASH. YOU HAVE TO TURN THE KEY OFF, PUT IN PARK, OPEN DOOR SO RADIO TURNS OFF, GIVE A MIN AND RESTART. THE FIRST TIME I WAS PULLING OFF A SIDE ROAD ONTO A BUSY ROAD, BUT I DIDN'T DO A COMPLETE STOP BECAUSE TRAFFIC WAS CLEAR. I WAS GOING 10-15MPH. THE SECOND TIME I WAS ON A SIDE ROAD GOING ABOUT 25-30 MPH. IT WAS JUST A MILDLY SHARP CURVE.
WHILE DRIVING THE ENGINE TOTALLY LOOSES POWER AND THE ENTIRE CAR IS SHUT OFF AND COMES TO A STOP. LOTS OF ELECTRICAL MESSAGES SHOW UP, AND SOMETIMES THE KEY CANNOT COME OUT OF IGNITION. AFTER AN HOUR, SOMETIMES IT WILL RESTART. I HAVE HAD IT TOWED THREE TIMES TO THE DEALER. AT FIRST THEY THOUGHT IT WAS THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE, BUT ITS STILL HAS THE PROBLEM. STARTING TO NOT BE ABLE TO TRUST THIS CAR AS ITS A HAZARD TO DRIVE NOT KNOWING WHEN IT WILL CUT OUT AND JUST STOP WITH NO POWER TO EVEN HAVE WINDOWS ROLL UP.
THE ENGINE STARTS SHUTTING DOWN WHILE SITTING AT STOP LIGHTS AND HAS A STRONG OIL SMELL.
ON OCTOBER 19,2018 MY IN LAWS WERE TRAVELING NORTH ON ROUTE 61 IN PENNSYLVANIA. THEY CAN TO A RED LIGHT AND RAN INTO THE BACK OF A MINIVAN AND THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED. THEN WE DONT KNOW WHAT HAPPENED, BUT THE CAR ACCELERATED AND WENT THE LENGTH OF A FOOTBALL FIELD AND THEY HIT A POLE AND MY MOTHER IN LAW DIED INSTANTLY AND MY FATHER IN LAW DIED AT 5:10 AM.MY CONCERN IS WHY ISN'T IT AN INDUSTRY STANDARD THAT ONCE THE AIRBAGS ARE DEPLOYED THE THROTTLE DOESN'T SHUT DOWN. IF THE THROTTLE WOULD HAVE NOT WORKED THEY WAY STILL BE ALIVE.IF YOU CANT HELP ME COULD YOU SEND ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.
WHILE DRIVING DOWN A CITY STREET IT BEGAN TO RAIN SO I TURNED ON MY WIPERS AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THE PASSENGER STOPPED IN THE STRAIGHT UP POSITION WHICH CAUSED THE DRIVERS SIDE TO GET CAUGHT UP IN IT. I IMMEDIATELY TURNED OFF MY WIPERS AS THE DRIVERS SIDE WAS STILL ATTEMPTING TO MOVE EVEN THOUGH IT WAS CAUGHT UP AND HAD TO PULL OVER BECAUSE I HAD ZERO VISIBILITY. I GOT THE WIPERS UNTANGLED BUT THE PASSENGER SIDE NO LONGER WORKS. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE AND WITH THE RESEARCH I'VE DONE IT SEEMS TO BE A BIG ISSUE FOR HUNDREDS IF NOT THOUSANDS OF OTHERS.
ROLLED DOWN MY DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT, IT MADE A CLICKING NOISE AND WHEN I TRIED TO ROLL IT UP, THE WINDOW FELL INTO THE DOOR. THE WINDOW WOULDN'T ROLL BACK UP AND MADE MORE CLICKING NOISES WHEN I TRIED TO ROLL IT UP
THE CAR LUNGES REAL BAD DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. LEAVING A STOP LIGHT. VERY DANGEROUS FOR MY 17 YEAR OLD
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS INITIALLY STARTED, THE POWER BOOSTER FOR THE BRAKES FAILED TO OPERATE. THE POWER BOOSTER BEGAN TO WORK AFTER APPROXIMATELY ONE MINUTE. QUIRK CHEVROLET MANCHESTER (1250 S WILLOW ST, MANCHESTER, NH 03103, (603) 263-4530) STATED THAT THERE WERE NO RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER ASSIGNED A CASE AND ADVISED THE CONTACT TO FILE A COMPLAINT WITH NHTSA. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 144,600.
WE HAVE HAD AN ISSUE WITH A CHEMICAL SMELL WHEN THE DEFROST IS ON SINCE WE PURCHASED THE VEHICLE IN SEPTEMBER 2015. WHEN TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP, THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY REASON FOR THE SMELL. IT FOGS THE WINDSHIELD WITH A FILM, CAUSES HEADACHES AND LIGHT HEADEDNESS. IT IS WHAT I BELIEVE TO BE THE SMELL OF COOLANT BURNING, BUT NOTHING WAS EVER FOUND SO WE JUST CONTINUED TO DRIVE IT. ON 8/15/2018, THE FAN KICKED ON VERY HIGH, WE RECEIVED THE AC WAS BEING SHUT OFF ERROR DUE TO THE TEMPERATURE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. THE VERY ODD THING ABOUT THIS IS THAT THE TEMPERATURE NEVER SHOWED IT WAS HIGH. THE GAUGE SHOWED 1 LINE OVER HALF TOWARDS THE HOT SIDE. GOT IT HOME AND LET IT COOL DOWN AND REALIZED THE COOLANT RESERVOIR WAS EMPTY. I REFILLED IT AND THE FAN WENT BACK TO RUNNING AS IT NORMALLY WOULD. I DECIDED TO CHECK IT AGAIN TODAY AND THE RESERVOIR WAS EMPTY AGAIN. I HAVE NOT HAD IT LOOKED AT AGAIN YET, BUT I THINK MAYBE THE INITIAL COOLANT ISSUE JUST BECAME A LARGER ONE. I HAVE SEEN MULTIPLE PEOPLE COMPLAIN OF BOTH OF THESE ISSUES. HAS THERE NOT BEEN ANY RECALL FOR THIS? I AM GOING TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT AGAIN BUT I FEEL LIKE FOR THE AMOUNT OF PEOPLE WITH THESE ISSUES WITH THIS YEAR OF CRUZE SOMETHING SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE BY NOW TO RESOLVE THIS.
TAMARA RECALL: I AM A FORMER GM EMPLOYEE. I PURCHASED A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE RIGHT AFTER HAVING IT A FEW MONTHS I HAD A ISSUE WITH THE TRANSMISSION. I'VE ALSO HAVE HAD TROUBLE WITH THE OIL GETTING INTO THE COOLANT RESERVOIR. WHICH HAS NOW HAPPENED THEE TIMES. THE COST IS RIDICULOUS!!!! I JUST SPENT $1050 ON THAT AND A NEW WATER PUMP JUST TO FIND OUT I'M STILL WITHOUT A CAR BECAUSE THE TRANSMISSION IS RIGHT BACK DOING THE SAME THING AGAIN. THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AND JERKING. I FEEL LIKE GM SHOULD BE PAYING ME BACK MY MONEY FOR THIS CRAP PIECE OF CAR. I TRY HARD TO TAKE CARE OF MY CAR BUT THIS IS HORRIBLE!!!! I WANT MY CAR FIXED AND I DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO PAY ANOTHER DIME. I LOSS MY JOB BECAUSE MY CAR WENT OUT ON ME. I HAS TO BORROW THE MONEY TO GET THE GASKET JOB DONE AGAIN. I'M CALLING THE DEALERSHIP IN THE MORNING AND IF THEY DON'T DO SOMETHING ABOUT THAT TRANSMISSION I AM GOING TO PUT GENERAL MOTORS ON BLAST!!!!
ON MY WAY TO THE BEACH I APPROACHED A STOP SIGN NEAR THE ENTRANCE OF A BUSY HIGHWAY. AFTER STOPPING I PROCEEDED TO PRESS THE GAS PEDAL AND ALL I GOT WAS ENGINE REVVING THE CAR DIDN'T MOVE AT ALL. I TRIED SHIFTING THE GEAR FROM PARK BACK TO DRIVE AND I TRIED AGAIN. THE CAR STILL DIDN'T MOVE AND I GOT REVVING AGAIN. SOMETHING WAS WRONG WITH THE TRANSMISSION CAUSING THE CAR TO SLIP INTO NEUTRAL WHILE BEING IN DRIVE. I RETURNED THE VEHICLE TO PARK AND TURNED IT OFF, AFTER WAITING A FEW SECONDS I STARTED THE CAR UP AGAIN PUT IT IN DRIVE AND I ACCELERATED FORWARD, I PULLED INTO A NEARBY PARKING LOT AND EASED MY WAY INTO A SPACE, BEFORE MAKING IT ALL THE WAY INTO THE SPACE I LOST GEAR AGAIN. I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE AND BACKED OUT OF THE SPACE. PUT IN BACK IN DRIVE AND AGAIN DIDN'T GO FORWARD, JUST REVVING. I ULTIMATELY PARKED THE CAR AND HAD IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC. 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE ARE MOST COMMONLY KNOWN TO HAVE TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS BUT THERE IS NO OPEN RECAL. MY CRUZE COULD HAVE SLIPPED INTO NEUTRAL WHILE I WAS ON THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY. THERE WAS NO WARNING IT WAS GONNA FAIL. NO LIGHT INDICATIONS, NO STRANGE SOUNDS COMING FROM THE CAR. I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A NEARBY CHEVROLET DEALER TO SEE IF THEY COULD TELL ME WHAT HAPPENED. THE TRANSMISSION GUY DROVE IT AROUND THE LOT AND THEN TOLD ME HIS BEST EDUCATED GUESS ON WHAT HAPPENED IS THAT THE 3,5,R PLATE BROKEDOWN AND CLOGGED THE FILTER. THEY TOLD ME I NEED A NEW TRANSMISSION. I CONTACTED CHEVROLET AND GM TO SEE IF THEY WOULD HELP AT ALL AND THEY SAID THEY COULD NOT. I HAD THE CAR TOWED SOMEWHERE ELSE TO GET THE TRANSMISSION REBUILT FOR CHEAPER. I TIRED TO ENCOURAGE THE GM REPRESENTATIVE I SPOKE TO, TO LOOK INTO OPENING A RECAL ON THE TRANSMISSIONS OF 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE BEING THAT IS THE MOST COMMON COMPLAINT. HOWEVER THEY COULD NOT PROVIDE ANY INFORMATION ON IF THEY WOULD OPEN A RECAL.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WINDSHIELD DEFROSTER FAILED TO OPERATE AS DESIGNED. THE CONTACT CONTACTED RIVERVIEW CHEVROLET (1063 LONG RUN RD, MCKEESPORT, PA 15132, (888) 733-9695) WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE DEFROSTER NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED AND THE DASHBOARD HAD TO BE DETACHED AND RE-ATTACHED TO DO SO. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL REGARDING THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000.
1. EACH TIME I GET AN OIL CHANGE, THE CAR SMELLS LIKE IT'S BURNING OIL AND IT'S REALLY STRONG. 2. HAD TO REPLACE THE GAS CAP AS IT BECAME STRIPPED CAUSING ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON. REPLACED WITH CORRECT CAP, LIGHT WENT OUT. FILLED CALL WITH FUEL, LIGHT CAME BACK ON, NOW SHOWING CODES.
BOUGHT A CRUZE IN 2011 AND FULLY SERVICED IT ALL OF ITS LIFE, IT'S NOW 2018 WITH 111K MILES AND THE TRANNY BLEW.
CHROME IS PEELING ON INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES LEAVING RAZOR SHARP EDGES. UNSUSPECTING PASSENGERS OR DRIVER CAN BE SERIOUSLY CUT BY THE MATERIAL. THIS IS ESPECIALLY DANGEROUS TO CHILDREN EXITING THE CAR.