2011 Chevrolet Cruze Complaint Log

THE CAR OVERHEATS, THIS IS THE 2ND TIME REPLACING THE MOTOR. THE FIRST TIME I REPLACED THE MOTOR, IT WAS NOT THE ORIGINAL MOTOR. I BOUGHT THE CAR USED. THE PREVIOUS OWNER REPLACED THE MOTOR.

I WAS MADE AWARE OF THE MULTIPLE RECALLS MY VEHICLE HAD THROUGH MY PEPBOYS DASHBOARD WHICH IS WHERE I GET MY CAR SERVICED. I WAS TOLD THAT THIS RECALL WAS ACTIVE WHEN I WAS SOLD THE CAR LAST FEBRUARY 2017 IN WHICH I AM CURRENTLY PAYING ON

VEHICLE HAS A VERY ROUGH IDLE WHILE STOPPED AND WHILE DRIVING. WHEN DRIVING THE VEHICLE WILL CHANGE ROUGHLY IDLE AND SPEED UP THE VEHICLE. WHILE IN A STOPPING POSITION THE VEHICLE WILL ROUGHLY IDLE AND THE RPM INDICATOR WILL BOUNCE UP AND DOWN. THE ENGINE LIGHT IS ON AND THE TRACTION CONTROL WARNING AND SERVICE ESP WARNINGS COME ON INTERMITTENTLY WHILE IN STOPPED POSITION AND THEN THE VEHICLE WILL NOT ACCELERATE PROPERLY. THE MOST RECENT ONE REVVED AND ACCELERATED ON ITS OWN, ALMOST HITTING THE CAR AT THE STOPLIGHT IN FRONT OF ME.

SEAT MOVES AND CLANKS WHEN GOING OVER A BUMP OR RAILROAD TRACKS. CAN FEEL SEAT MOVING.

I PUT $20 IN GAS IN THE VEHICLE ON MY WAY TO WORK. WHEN I PULLED OUT INTO TRAFFIC, THE CAR JERKED VIOLENTLY, THEN PROCEEDED TO BUCK AND IDLE FUNNY ALL THE WAY TILL I GOT TO WORK. FROM THAT DAY TILL NOW, EVERYTIME I STOP AT A RED LIGHT OR STOP SIGN, IT STALLS UNLESS I KEEP GAS PETAL PRESSED DOWN.

IN MAY OF THIS YEAR, AS I TRIED TO BACK OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY, MY CAR WOULD NOT MOVE IN REVERSE. THE CAR WAS RATTLING, THE RPMS WERE GOING UP, BUT THE CAR WOULD NOT GO IN GEAR. MY FAMILY PUSHED MY CAR OUT OF THE DRIVEWAY IN NEUTRAL AND I DROVE IT 2 MILES TO MY MECHANIC. DURING THAT 2 MINUTE DRIVE, THE CAR CONTINUALLY SLIPPED GEARS. FAST FORWARD TO HAVING THE CRUZE TOWED TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP (AFTER NOT HAVING HEARD FROM CHEVROLET AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS CONTACTING THEM) AND I FIND OUT THE TRANSMISSION IS COMPLETELY BROKE. THE CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY, AND OF COURSE CHEVROLET LENT NO ASSISTANCE, SO I PAID $3,674 TO HAVE A REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION PUT IN WITH A 500,000 MILE WARRANTY. THE TRANSMISSION IN THE CRUZE NEVER ACTED COMPLETELY RIGHT (A COMMON COMPLAINT AMONG MANY CRUZE OWNERS)- NOT SHIFTING PROPERLY WHEN GOING UP HILLS, JERKING WHEN SHIFTING ON FLAT PAVEMENT. IT'S MIND-BLOWING THAT THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY REPORTED ISSUES OF TRANSMISSION FAILURES IN THIS MODEL, BUT CHEVROLET HAS YET TO MAKE ANY RECALLS. IT'S NOT ONLY A FINANCIAL ISSUE, IT'S A SAFETY CONCERN. I WILL NOT BE BUYING A CHEVY AGAIN, AS THEY WERE UNWILLING TO PROVIDE ANY ASSISTANCE WHEN THIS MAJOR COMPONENT FAILED. NOT EVEN 90K MILES, SEVEN YEARS OLD, THIS SHOULDN'T EVEN BE AN ISSUE YET.

"TAKATA RECALL" MY CAR IS SHUTTING OFF THEN POWERING BACK UP BY ITSELF.. SEEMS LIKE SOMETHING IS STUCK READING A CODE OF P0234

TAKATA RECALL, I HAVE A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE. MY TURBO IS HAVING UNDERBOOST FAILURE AND NEEDS REPLACED. I CAN NO LONGER INCREASE SPEED WHILE DRIVING ON THE ROAD TO PASS CARS OR GO UP HILLS, I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL OTHER CHEVY CRUZES WITH THE SAME YEAR BEEN RECALLED FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN I TYPED MY VIN NUMBER IN NOTHING POPPED UP. SO WHY DOESN'T MY CAR QUALIFY ?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHEN RELEASING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE VEHICLE ABRUPTLY JERKED AND SHOOK. WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS COMPLETELY RELEASED, THE VEHICLE JERKED WITH FORCE AND SHOOK. THE CONTACT HAD TO WAIT A FEW SECONDS FOR THE VEHICLE TO STOP JERKING AND SHAKING IN ORDER TO ENGAGE THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. THE FAILURE WAS EXPERIENCED EVERYDAY AND THE STABILITY CONTROL, TRACTION CONTROL, AND CHECK ENGINE INDICATORS ILLUMINATED DURING THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE NORMALLY OCCURRED WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN 42 MPH OR LESS. HOWEVER, WHEN DRIVING 55 MPH OR MORE, THE FAILURE WAS NOT EXPERIENCED. AFTER THE JERKING AND SHAKING WOULD END, THE VEHICLE TOOK A FEW MINUTES TO REACH 55 MPH OR MORE. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING, LAGGING AND NOT ENGAGING. WHEN PUTTING THE CAR IN DRIVE IT MAY LAG BEFORE FINALLY GOING INTO GEAR. WHEN SHIFTING GEARS AUTOMATICALLY, IN MOTION, THE CAR WILL LAG BETWEEN GEARS AND WILL ABRUPTLY GO INTO GEAR AFTER A LAG CAUSING THE CAR TO JUMP.

ENGINE POWER REDUCED LIGHT COMES ON, CAR IDLES ROUGH, LIKE IT IS GOING TO SHUT OFF. WHEN INITIALLY TAKING OFF CAR PUTTS LIKE IT IS NOT GETTING GAS. CAR ACTS LIKE IT WILL STALL WHILE DRIVING AND DURING IDLING. STABILITY SERVICE TRACTION LIGHT COMES ON PERIODICALLY AND ENGINE RMPS INCREASE. HAD CAR LOOKED AT IN CASE IT WAS O2 SENSOR, BUT WAS TOLD BY MECHANIC THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE. ISSUE HAS BEEN OCCURRING SINCE MAY 2018. THERE ARE 126K MILES ON THE CAR. CAR HAS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED. I DRIVE 45 MINUTES TO WORK, 5 DAYS A WEEK. I HAVE YOUNG CHILDREN THAT I TRANSPORT IN THE VEHICLE. CAR FEELS UNSAFE.

AFTER AWHILE OF OWNING MY VEHICLE I NOTICED MY AC/HEATER BLOWER BEGAN TO STOP BLOWING OUT OF MY VENTS, AND IT ONLY BLOWS OUT OF THE DEFROST VENT. WITH THE BLOWER ON MY WINDOWS BECOME VERY FOGGED AND HARD TO SEE. I TOOK IT TO A REPAIR CENTER AND FOUND OUT THAT IT WOULD END UP COSTING ME $1000 TO FIX A $15 PIECE. WITH HAVING TO REMOVE MY ENTIRE DASH. THEY TOLD ME IT WAS A LEVER OF SOME SORT AND THERE IS NO OTHER WAY TO GET TO IT.

VEHICLE WAS ON HIGHWAY GOING TO LEXINGTON KY FROM LOUISVILLE KY. CAR BEGIN TO SMOKE. HOSE THAT WAS SUPPOSEDLY FIXED ON RADIATOR WAS RIGGED AND OIL SPILLED FROM THE HOSE CAUSING IT TO GO INTO ENGINE. ENGINE OVERHEATED WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY. ENGINE DIED. HAD TO GET CAR TOWED FROM ONE CITY TO THE NEXT. GOT STRANDED IN ANOTHER TOWN BECAUSE COULD NOT OBTAIN A RENTAL CAR BECAUSE THEY WERE CLOSED. SINCE 2016 I HAVE SPENT OVER $7000 ON GETTING THE SAME ISSUES OR RELATED ISSUES FIXED. I HAVE SPENT OVER $5000 IN RENTAL CARS AND I STILL OWE $9000 ON MY CAR WHICH I PURCHASED FROM BALES AUTOMALL/BACHMAN IN JEFFERSONVILLE INDIANA IN 2014 WITH ON 28,000 MILES. I HAVE KEPT MY SERVICES UP TO DATE ON THE VEHICLE AND HAVE DOCUMENTATION FOR THAT. IT SEEMS ONCE I BEGIN TO GET OIL CHANGES AT THIS LOCATION MY CAR BEGIN TO DECLINE. I WOULD BE TOLD THAT I HAD ONE PROBLEM, THEY WOULD FIX IT, AND THEN SOMETHING ELSE WOULD HAPPEN. IN ADDITION, I HAVE A WITNESS WHO IS A FAMILY MEMBER WHO IS EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH THE SAME YEAR AND MODEL CAR THAT SHE OWNS. I SEE HER GOING THROUGH THE SAME DOWN SPIRAL STEPS WITH HER CAR AS I DID. IT IS ALMOST LIKE CLOCKWORK. I HAVE READ CONSUMER REPORTS ABOUT THESE VEHICLES AND NONE HAVE BEEN POSITIVE. IN FACT, MANY WHO HAVE A TURBO ENGINE WILL OR HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS SAME ISSUE. THE CAR IS A LEMON... IT NEEDS TO BE RECALLED!! IT IS UNFAIR THAT I PURCHASED A CAR THAT WAS NO GOOD AND THAT ONLY RAN GOOD FOR TWO YEARS BEFORE HAVING TO REPLACE THE TURBO TWICE AND THE ENGINE. LET ME REITERATE.. I STILL OWE $9000 ON THIS CAR. AT THIS POINT I AM CLUELESS AND I FEEL AS IF I WAS TAKEN ADVANTAGE OF. WHEN I REPORTED THIS TO THE BBB;GMC AND OTHER SOURCES THEY LED ME ON FOR WEEKS KNOWING THAT THEY WOULD NOT ASSIST IN THE MATTER. BECAUSE OF THIS WHOLE FIASCO I HAVE ANXIETY IN WHICH I AM TAKING MEDICATION. PLEASE HELP DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO

DRIVERS SIDE HEATED SEAT SHUTS OFF AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE.

2011 CHEVY CRUZE WATERPUMP RECALL- PACE CHEVROLET HUNTINGTON, INDIANA DEALERSHIP. MY CAR OVERHEATED AFTER THE SECOND VISIT TRYING TO CORRECT THE POOR RECALL REPAIR. PLEASE SEE BELOW:. I TOOK MY 2011 CHEVY CRUZE IN FOR A WATERPUMP RECALL. THEY COMPLETED THE JOB IN 1/2 OF THE NORMAL TIME AS QUOTED ONLINE. AS SOON AS I PULLED OUT OF THE GARAGE IT SOUNDED LIKE A WATERFALL UNDER MY DASH! I PULLED RIGHT BACK IN. THE TECH LIFTED UP MY HOOD AND SAID OH IT WAS JUST BURPING THE SYSTEM AND CLOSED IT. SECOND VISIT: 2 1/2 WEEKS LATER- I BROUGHT IT BACK IN. THEY ADMITTED THAT AIR BUBBLES HAD BECOME TRAPPED IN PARTS OF MY ENGINE AND THEY "BLED" THE SYSTEM. WITHIN 5 DAYS MY COOLANT WAS EMPTY!! THIRD VISIT: THEY CALLED ME AND SAID THAT I HAD BROKEN THE COOLANT PRESSURE RELEASE HOSE CONNECTOR FROM MY MASTER MECHANIC HUSBAND BUTTING SOME WIRES WEEKS BEFORE. HOW DID I GO TWO AND A HALF WEEKS WITH IT BEING COMPLETELY FULL AND COINCIDENTLY 5 DAYS AFTER MY SECOND VISIT MY COOLANTS OUT AND EMPTY??? ADVISED THAT GM WILL NOT PAY FOR THIS AND EITHER WILL THEY. SO I'LL HAVE TO PAY $185 FOR A $30.00 PART AND 5 MINUTES OF THEIR TIME TO SWAP IT OUT. MY HUSBAND'S A MECHANIC, I WOULD NEVER GO THROUGH ALL THIS TROUBLE FOR A $30 HOSE CONNECTOR. THERE WAS NO ACCOUNTABILITY AND I AM SO DISGUSTED WITH THEM TRYING TO BLAME ME. BELIEVE ME, IF IT WAS ME I WOULD HAVE NO ISSUES REPAIRING IT RATHER THAN TO BE DISRESPECTED LIKE THAT. I ALSO HAD SQUEAKING COMING FROM MY BELT, THEY NEGLECTED TO LOOK AT THAT AND DIDN'T WIPE UP ALL THE COOLANT UNDER MY WATERPUMP UNTIL THE THIRD TIME. THESE ARE ALL THINGS THAT ARE 100% EXPECTED OF A DEALERSHIP THE FIRST TIME IN, ESPECIALLY FOR A MANUFACTURERS DEFECT. I COULDN'T BELIEVE I HAD TO WASTE ALL THAT TIME JUST FOR THEM TO DO THEIR JOB AND THEN TRY AND STICK ME WITH A CHEAP PART THAT THEY BROKE. ONCE A CAR OVERHEATS THE PIPES NEVER RETURN TO NORMAL.

I OWN A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE. IT HAS 67,000 MILES. ABOUT A MONTH AGO, I STARTED TO NOTICE A FEELING OF MY STEERING TAKING ON A MIND OF ITS OWN. SO JUST LAST WEEK, I WENT AND GOT NEW BRAKES, ROTORS, TIRES, FRONT END ALIGNMENT, BALANCE. COST A PRETTY PENNY, BUT NEEDED FOR SAFETY. I HAD THEM CHECK FOR FRONT END ISSUES THAT MIGHT BE RELATED TO STEERING PROBLEMS. THEY SAID THE FRONT END WAS TIGHT. TYRODS, BALL JOINTS, AXLE, ETC. THIS CONFIRMED TO ME, THAT THE STEERING ISSUE WAS FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. THERE IS ALSO A CRUNCHING SOUND IN THE STEERING, WHEN TURNING WHEEL FROM A PARKED POSITION. WELL THE STILL HAS STEERING ISSUES. ON THE STRAIGHT AWAY, IT FEELS LIKE THE TIRES ARE INDEPENDENTLY TURNING. I THEN HAVE TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL TO COMPENSATE AND CORRECT. THIS IN TURN CAUSES, OVER TURNING. THE TIRES AND THE STEERING WHEEL ARE NOT WORKING TOGETHER. THIS MAKES ME SO SCARED TO DRIVE THIS CAR. I HAVE A SMALL PASSANGER, DAILY. I ALSO DRIVE ON A 50 MILE TRIP ONCE OR TWICE A WEEK. PLEASE HELP

ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS I HAVE ALMOST HAD COLLISIONS BECAUSE MY CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE GOING UP A HILL THE RPM WOULD REV UP HIGH BUT IT SEEMED MY TRANSMISSION SLOWED DOWN/SLIPPING. I TOOK THE CAR TO A LOCAL GARAGE TO BE CHECKED WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG "WASTED $80 FOR NOTHING" WITH MY CAR BUT I AM STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. WHEN I GO TO CLIMB ANY HILL NOW THE CAR STILL ACTS LIKE IT HAS NO POWER TO GO BUT ENGINE RPMS RUN HIGH AND FEELS LIKE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AND NOT WORKING RIGHT. I CAN'T EVEN ATTEMPT TO PASS ON HIGHWAY/ROAD BECAUSE I KNOW THIS CAR DOES NOT HAVE THE POWER. THE WAY THIS CAR OPERATES IS CONCERNING TO ME AND IS UNSAFE IN MY EYES.

CAR DOES NOT PROPERLY ACCELERATE, SO MUCH SO THAT I NEED TO USE THE HAZARD LIGHTS TO AVOID BEING HIT BY THE CAR BEHIND ME WHEN ACCELERATING AFTER STOPPING AT A STOP SIGN OR RED LIGHT. THIS IS NOT SAFE. I HAVE SMALL CHILDREN. I DROVE 40+ MILES (CITY MILES) AND HAD NO ISSUES GETTING THERE, BUT THEN WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO TURN THE CAR ON AGAIN TO RETURN HOME, THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE SHOWED THE ENGINE GO FROM COLD TO HOT VERY QUICKLY, DISPLAYED THE MESSAGE "ENGINE HOT A/C OFF" AND IT STARTED MAKING A LOUD SQUEALING NOISE. AT THIS POINT I SWERVED THE CAR OFF THE ROAD BECAUSE MY DAUGHTER AND I FEARED FOR OUR SAFETY AND THOUGHT IT WAS GOING TO EXPLODE. I PUT THE CAR IN PARK, WE BOTH OPENED OUR DOORS AND TOOK OFF RUNNING FROM THE CAR UNTIL WE REACHED A SAFE DISTANCE. I HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED 40+ MILES TO MY HOME. THE MECHANIC CHECKED THE VEHICLE AGAIN AND FOUND THAT THE RADIATOR HAD CRACKED AND THAT THE WATER PUMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. HE REPLACED THE RADIATOR AND ALSO THE WATER PUMP, AND ENSURED THE PROPER AMOUNTS OF ALL FLUIDS. ALSO, WHENEVER I ATTEMPT TO DRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY, THE FRONT END OF THE CAR GETS VERY HOT AND THE "TRANSMISSION HOT IDLE ENGINE" MESSAGE COMES ON AND THE AC, WHICH WAS WORKING FINE, DOES NOT WORK NOW. STILL, THE MECHANIC COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE TRANSMISSION! THE HEAT FROM THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION COME STRAIGHT THROUGH THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE, WHICH WITH NO AC GETS SUPER HOT IN ADDITION TO THE 80+ DEGREE WEATHER IN CENTRAL FLORIDA (AND IT'S NOT EVEN SUMMER YET!). EVERY TIME I HAVE TO HAVE TRIED TO REFUEL THE CAR WITHIN THE PAST 2 WEEKS OF ME HAVING PURCHASED IT, THE ENGINE STALLS AND STALLS AND STALLS. IT TAKES 10-15 TRIES TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON EVERY TIME I REFUEL. IN ADDITION TO THIS, ONCE YOU ACTUALLY GET THE CAR BACK ON THE CAR JERKS WHEN PUT IN DRIVE. I HAVE TO KEEP MY FOOT ON THE GAS OR THE CAR WILL SHUT BACK OFF.

DRIVING ALONG AT APPROXIMATELY 35MPH OUT AND SUDDENLY THE CAR LOST ALL ACCELERATION. IT WOULD GO IN REVERSE, BUT NOT FORWARD. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. ADDED SOME AUTOMATIC TRANS. FLUID AND THAT DID NOT HELP. REMOVED THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY FOR A FEW MINUTES TO "RESET". THE CAR WAS THEN ABLE TO MOVE FORWARD, BUT VERY SLOW ACCELERATION IN 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, BUT I WAS UNABLE TO GET THE CODE CHECKED BECAUSE IT WAS TOO LATE IN THE EVENING. LIMPED THE CAR 20 MINUTES HOME. ONCE IN 3RD GEAR AND ABOVE, IT RAN FINE. BUT WHEN GOING FROM A DEAD STOP, IT WOULD TAKE FOREVER TO GET OUT OF 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. ADDITIONALLY, THE DASH DISPLAY NO LONGER WOULD SHOW THE DRIVE SHIFT CONTROL DISPLAY. ONLY SHOWED "D" AND NOT M1, ETC. GOT VEHICLE HOME AND IT NOW SHIFTS VERY HARD WHEN PUT IN REVERSE.

MY 2011 CHEVY CRUZ THE TURBO WENT OUT ON IT REPLACE THE TURBO REPLACE THE MANIFOLD REPLACED THE LINE THAT GOES INTO THE OIL PAN I HAVE A VACUUM LEAK SOMEWHERE I CAN'T FIND A VACUUM LEAK THERE SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING IS BURNING UNDERNEATH THE SEATS AND SOMETIMES IT IS HARD TO SHIFT IT DOESN'T SHIFT RIGHT.ALSO THE LIGHTS ON THE FRONT THEY FLICKER AND BLANK THE SEATBELTS DON'T LIKE TO COME OUT WHEN YOU CLICKI WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD ONE DAY I WAS TRYING TO GET OUT ON THE EXPRESSWAY COMING OFF OF THE RAMP TRYING TO GET SPAYED AND THERE WAS NO POWER AND DIDN'T WANT TO GO ANY FASTER BY THE TIME I GOT HOME IT SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS WHISTLING AND NO POWER AT ALL THE TURBOS FIX BRAND NEW THE MANIFOLD BRAND NEW IT'S ALL BRAND NEW WHITE NEXT TO HIS CAR IS GIVING ME A PROBLEM AFTER PROBLEM

MY CAR IS ONLY AT 91K MILES, AND MY CYLINDER 3 IS NOT COMPRESSING ANYMORE, MORE THAN LIKELY DUE TO PISTON RING FAILURE.

CONDENSATION ON INSIDE WINDOWS

THE HOSE THAT CONNECTS TO THE COOLANT FOR THE AC SYSTEM ALWAYS BREAKS AND THE HEATING AND COOLING STOPS WORKING, THIS IS UNSAFE BECAUSE IT MAY CAUSE OVERHEATING OF THE ENGINE IF NOT REPAIRED.

SMELLS LIKE IT'S BURNING, SMOKES INTO THE INSIDE. IT'S BEEN NUMEROUS TIMES IN THE SHOP BUT IT KEEPS DOING THE SAME. ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH THE DRIVER SEAT AND LIGHTING ALSO

TAKATA RECALL, TRANSMISSION FAILURE, CAR NOT SHIFTING INTO GEARS. DRIVING ON CITY STREET AT A STOP LIGHT AND THE CAR WOULD NOT ADVANCE FORWARD, I HAD TO PHYSICALLY PUSH IT OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO LET TRAFFIC PASS. CAR WILL NOT ADVANCE IN FORWARD OR REVERSE.

THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS WILL NOT WORK UNLESS PLACED ON HIGH SPEED, AND EVEN THEN, THEY STOP HALFWAY ON THE WINDSHIELD CAUSING VISABILITY ISSUES. THIS HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD.

IT'S BEEN GOING OFF AND ON EVERY SINCE I FIRST GOT THE CAR I SMELL A BURNING SMELL AND IT LOSES POWER IS STALLS AND THE DEALERSHIP KEEP TELLING ME IT'S JUST AIR GETTING INTO IT BUT I KNOW IT'S MY TURBO BECAUSE MY NEIGHBOR HAS ONE HER TURBO WENT OUT AND I HAVE TWO OTHER FRIENDS THAT HAS ONE AND BOTH THEIR TURBO WENT OUT AND NOW IT'S MAKING A KNOCKING NOISE AND EVERYONE THAT I HAVE LOOK AT IT SAY IT'S THE TURBO IT'S THE WASTEGATE I DON'T DRIVE MY CAR MUCH AND ONLY HAS 26,000 MILES ON IT BECAUSE I'M AFRAID TO DRIVE IT I'VE HAD IT FIXED MORE THAN 10 TIMES IT HAD A OIL LEAK WHERE WOULD CATCH ON FIRE BUT THE DEALERSHIP PUT TURBO FANS IN INSTEAD OF GIVING ME A NEW MOTOR SO IT'S STILL FLAMES UP FROM THE OIL PAN BUT THEY SAY THE TURBO FANS IS GOING TO BLOW THE FIRE OUT SO IT'S NOT GOING TO HURT ME BUT I DON'T DRIVE IT FAR BECAUSE I'M SCARED WHEN IT GETS HOT THAT'S GOING TO CATCH ON FIRE AND NOBODY WOULD GIVE ME ANYTHING FOR IT THAT'S WHY I STILL HAVE THE CAR BUT I'M WILLING TO JUST TAKE A BIG LOSS AND JUST LET THEM HAVE IT BACK THE DOORS OPEN WITHOUT TOUCHING THE CAR WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM THE LIGHTS ARE JUST GO OUT IN THE DASH JUST RANDOM SO I CAN'T DRIVE IT AT NIGHT I HOPE YOU CAN SEE THE OIL ON THE PICTURES IT JUST SHOOTS ALL OVER THE PLACE AND WHEN I TAKE IT TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY SAY THE RECALL IS NOT ON MY CAR THEY HAVE A RECALL ON THE TURBO AND THE VACUUM SYSTEM BUT THEY RUN MY VIN NUMBER AND SAY IT'S NOT ON MY CAR WHEN I FIRST GOT THIS CAR IT WAS QUIET IT CAUGHT ON FIRE FROM AN OIL LEAK THEY FIXED IT NOW IT SOUNDS LIKE A TRUCK YOU CAN HEAR IT THREE BLOCKS AWAY IS STALLS ALL THE TIME AND THEY TELL ME IT'S THE GAS I'M USING I SWITCH TO PREMIUM GAS AND IT STILL DOES IT THIS CAR IS JUNK I HOPE NOBODY EVER BUYS IT CHEVY SHOULD BE SHUT DOWN

WHEN TAKING OFF FROM STOPPED POSITION THE CAR JERKED AND WOULD NOT SHIFT TO SECOND, WITHOUT TAPPING THE GAS PEDDLE. AFTER PULLING INTO WHERE I LIVE, I STOPPED AND TRIED TO DRIVE FORWARD BUT IT WOULD NOT MOVE ONLY IN REVERSE WOULD THE CAR MOVE. THE CAR IS IN THE SHOP NOW. STILL DON'T KNOW WHAT IS WRONG. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CHEVY CRUZE.

" TAKATA RECALL" TRANSMISSION FAILURE

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A 3-POINT TURN, THE VEHICLE WAS SHIFTED INTO REVERSE, BUT FAILED TO ENGAGE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER FOUR ATTEMPTS, THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO SHIFT INTO REVERSE, BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE AND THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. ALSO, A WHISTLING SOUND WAS HEARD COMING FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROADWAY, TURNED OFF, AND RESTARTED, THE VEHICLE OPERATED CORRECTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO ADVISED THE CONTACT TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A CHEVROLET DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AND REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THEY WOULD TOW THE VEHICLE TO WINTER CHEVROLET (3750 CENTURY CT., PITTSBURG, CA 94565). THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRANSMISSION FAILED AND NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 41,000. *TT *TR

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT SHOWS UP ON DASHBOARD, LOUD NOISE AS THOUGH ENGINE REVVING UP, WARNING NOTIFICATION, A.C. NOT WORKING OVERHEATING. CAR WAS IN DRIVING MODE ON CITY STREET

I WAS DRIVING IN A 25 MPH SPEED LIMIT ZONE AND WHEN COMING TO A STOP SIGN I WAS UNABLE TO APPLY THE BRAKES AS THEY WOULD NOT GO DOWN AND RODE COMPLETELY THROUGH AN INTERSECTION. THANKFULLY I WAS ABLE TO GET THE VEHICLE TO A STOP AFTER AND APPLY THE BRAKES WITH NO ACCIDENT OR INJURY.

ENGINE POWER REDUCED COMES ON WITH SERVICE STABILITRACK SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL AND DROPS ENGINE SPEED AND LITERALLY HAVE TO PULL OVER AND RESTART CAR. NOW CAR WON'T EVEN IDLE FOR LONGER FOR A MINUTE BEFORE LIGHTS COME ON. ABSOLUTELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE AS I TRAVEL LONG DISTANCES FOR WORK AND TRAVEL WITH A SMALL CHILD WHICH IN THESE FREEZING TEMPERATURES IS EXTREMELY UNSAFE. HAD HAPPENED SEVERAL DATES MOST RECENT 1/14

CARS HEAT DOES NOT HEAT UP, BLOWS OUT COLD AIR. IT IS ALWAYS ONE CLICK ABOVE COLD WHEN IN MOTION, WHEN SITTING STILL IT WILL HEAT UP 2 CLICKS ABOVE COLD. THIS IS A PROBLEM ON THIS CAR AND THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS. THE PROBLEM DOES NOT SEEM TO BE FIXABLE, EVEN WHEN REPLACING THE THE HEATER CORE OR WIRING.

WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY AND ON THE STREET MULTIPLE TIMES THIS VEHICLE HAS SHUT DOWN REDUCING ENGINE POWER WITH SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL SENSOR APPEAR ON THE DASH BOARD. THE CAR ENGINE BEGINS TO MAKE NOISES AND SLOW ABRUPTLY. I HAVE PULLED OVER TURN THE CAR OFF THEN ON AND IT STOP. THEN RANDOMLY IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN THE SENSOR HAS DISAPPEARED COMPLETELY AND WORK PERFECTLY FINE THEN THIS WILL ONCE AGIN HAPPEN. MY CAR IS UNDER 100,000 MILES AND CHEVY CUSTOMER SERVICES TELLS ME IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER ANY WARRENTY

YOU DRIVE FOR 15 MILES GOES INTO LIMP MODE HAVE PUT 3 TECOMS IN THE CAR AND STILL DOES THE SAME THING

FRONT WINDSHIELD FOGGING UP AT OUTSIDE HUMIDITY LEVELS OF 80% AND ABOVE; STATIONARY AS IN MOTION. THE AIR SYSTEM DOES NOT CLEAR THE INTERNAL WINDOW CONDENSATION FROM THE FRONT WINDSHIELD, UNLESS THE AC IS WORKING. WITH TEMPERATURES BELOW 75F, THERE'S NO NEED FOR AC, SO IT'S PREFERABLY TURNED OFF. HOWEVER PUTTING REGULAR AIR ON HEATER, WITH NO AC WILL FOG THE WINDSHIELD.

ON DECEMBER 30, 2017 MY SON WAS DRIVING HOME,WE LIVE IN THE COUNTRY. SO HE STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN AND WHEN HE WENT TO TAKE OFF THE CAR WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF 1ST GEAR. THANK GOODNESS HE WASN'T FAR FROM HOME SO WAS ABLE TO VERY SLOWLY GET HERE. THE CAR HAD 111144 MILES ON IT. THE CAR HAD BEEN INOPERABLE SINCE THAT DAY. WE HAVE REPLACED THE VALVE BODY BUT THAT DID NOT HELP. TOOK IT TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP WHERE WE WERE TOLD THE TRANSMISSION ONLY HAD REVERSE AND 3RD GEAR AND THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AFTER DOING SOME ONLINE SEARCHING I DISCOVERED MANY OTHER PEOPLE WITH THE SAME ISSUE ON THIS CAR.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION, NEUTRAL GEAR AND EMERGENCY BRAKE ALWAYS USED WHEN PARKING THE CAR. NOTICED THAT WHEN REMOVING THE E-BRAKE ON A HILL, THE CAR ROLLS SLIGHTLY BACKWARDS AND IT SEEMED AS IF THE E-BRAKE ENGAGED EVEN AFTER IT BEING REMOVED. THERE WAS ALSO FRICTION WHEN USING THE BRAKES, ALMOST LIKE THE BRAKE PADS WERE GETTING LOW, HOWEVER THEY HAD JUST BEEN REPLACED. TOOK THE CAR INTO THE MECHANIC AND WAS TOLD THE E-BRAKE CABLE RUNNING FROM THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO THE BACK TIRES IS MALFUNCTIONING TO WHERE IT FAILS TO RETRACT FULLY WHEN THE EMERGENCY BRAKE IS DISENGAGED. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THIS PART IS ON A 4 WEEK BACK ORDER THROUGH GM BECAUSE IT IS A REOCCURRING PROBLEM, AND IT IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE ACCORDING TO GM. HOWEVER, HAVING THE EMERGENCY BRAKE PARTIALLY ENGAGED IS DEFINITELY A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE, SINCE IT CONFLICTS WITH NORMAL BRAKING WHEN DRIVING, CAUSING FRICTION IN THE BRAKES. NOT SAFE TO DRIVE ON, AND CAN'T EVEN BE FIXED SINCE IT IS ON BACK ORDER DUE TO A FAULT PART! MECHANIC SAYS HES SURPRISED MY BRAKES WERE NOT SMOKING. I DRIVE LONG DISTANCES BETWEEN STATES FREQUENTLY, AND IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE, AND CANNOT FIX THE PART UNTIL THE BACK ORDER IS CAUGHT UP THROUGH GM.

THE OIL FILTER HAUSING IS LIQUIDATING OIL EVERY TIME THAT I MAKE A OIL CHANGE

THE CHEVROLET CRUZE'S WATER COOLANT OUTLET HAS CRACKED THREE TIMES NOW. THIS IS A PLASTIC PIECE THAT CRACKS UNDER HEAT AND LEAKS RADIATOR FLUID.

WILL DRIVING WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DOES NOT SHIFT FROM 1 TO ANY OTHER SHIFT AND IT JUST ACCELERATES WITH ANY SHIFTS AND LOSING SPEED IN THE HIGHWAY VERY FAST WHICH COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT DUE TO NOT BEEN ABLE TO GAIN ANY SPEED. THE ENGINE LIGHT IS ON AND ACCORDING TO AN INSPECTION SHOWING TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM FAILURE

NOTICED I WAS LOSING COOLANT RAPIDLY, FULL TANK WITHIN 1-2 DAYS, ONLY DRIVING ABOUT 7 MILES TO WORK AND BACK. . TOOK TO DEALERSHIP (WHERE PURCHASED) AND THEY DETERMINED ENGINE COOLANT LEAKING FROM FAULTY WATER PUMP. THOUGHT THE ISSUE WOULD BE COVERED BY GM EXTENDED WARRANTY BECAUSE ALREADY EXISTING SPECIAL COVERAGE BULLETIN 14371A, EXISTED FOR THIS ISSUE IN 1.4L ENGINE, ...BUT NOT FOR THE 1.8L ENGINE, WHICH IS WHAT I OWN. THE WATER PUMP IN THE 1.4L IS THE EXACT SAME PART IN THE 1.8L ENGINE, SO I'M LEAD TO BELIEVE THAT THE WATER PUMP IN MY VEHICLE SHOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED DUE TO IT BEING A FAULTY PART, IN GENERAL. WATER PUMP WAS REPLACED AND HAVE EXPERIENCED NO MORE LEAKAGE. I AM UNABLE TO ATTACH THE SERVICE INVOICE FROM MCKINLEYVILLE CHEVROLET AND BUICK, BUT CAN PROVIDE HARD COPY.

I WAS DRIVING HOME ON A HIGHWAY DURING RUSH HOUR. THE TRAFFIC WAS VERY SLOW MOVING - ABOUT 10 MPH. AFTER SLOWING TO ALMOST A COMPLETE STOP, I PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR AND COULD NOT GET THE CAR OVER 3 MPH. I WAS ABLE TO GET OFF AN EXIT AND PULL OVER. WHEN I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON AGAIN, THE CAR WOULD NOT MOVE FORWARD AT ALL - ONLY IN REVERSE. I HAD IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC, WHERE I FOUND OUT I HAVE FORWARD TRANSMISSION FAILURE - UNDER 89K MILES ON THE CAR AND A 2011!

THE BRAKE LIGHTS FLICKER AND/OR STAY ON WHEN BRAKES ARE NOT BEING PRESSED.

SET UP THE AIRBAG AND THE CAR MILEAGE DOES LOOK

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE JERKED, LUNGED, AND LOST POWER. ALSO, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BMW OF ALEXANDRIA (499 S PICKETT ST, ALEXANDRIA, VA 22304, (703) 684-8500) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SPARK PLUGS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE FUEL INJECTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT REFERENCED NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V044000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM); HOWEVER, THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 37,000.

THIS IS THE SECOND TIME IN TWO YEARS THAT THE TRANSMISSION STOPPED WORKING CAUSING AN INCONVENIENCE OF LOSING MY TRANSPORTATION AND THIS IS GETTING EXPENSIVE TO KEEP FIXING

OIL LEAKING JUST BELOW DIPSTICK. NOT FROM THE DIPSTICK ITSELF BUT FROM A HORIZONTAL CREASE BELOW IT. OIL LEAKED ONTO HEAT SHIELD AND DOWN ONTO EXHAUST. BURNING SMELL COMES THROUGH AIR VENTS MAKING IT HARD TO BREATHE IN CAB. NOTICED THIS AFTER DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AND MINOR CITY TRAFFIC.

MY CAR JUST WENT OUT. NO WARNING NO NOTHING. THE DASHBOARD WEND HAYWIRE AND WAS UNABLE TO READ ANYTHING AT ALL (SPEED, RPM, FUEL OR TEMP). THE IGNITION DOWNSHIFTED ON ITS OWN ALMOST CAUSING AN ACCIDENT WHILE I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY. ONCE SAFELY OFF OF THE HIGHWAY I TRIED TO PARK THE CAR IN A PROPER PARKING SPACE SO THAT I COULD INSPECT THE ISSUE AND IT WOULDN'T REVERSE AND SHORTLY AFTER WOULD NO LONGER GO FORWARD.