NHTSA Owner Complaint Log
This page lists owner-reported complaints filed with NHTSA for the 2017 Chevrolet Cruze. Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA and do not by themselves prove a defect or defect rate.
Data synced from NHTSA on May 4, 2026
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT, THE AUTO STOP MODE WAS ACTIVATED AND THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WAS DARK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED TWICE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VIN WAS NOT UNDER RECALL. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT AN ADVISOR WOULD CONTACT THE DEALER. THE CONTACT WAS ADVISED NOT TO MENTION THE FAILURE TO THE DEALER BECAUSE SHE HAD TAKEN THE VEHICLE FOR THE REPLACEMENT OF THE BATTERY TO VERIFY IF THAT WAS THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE AT JENKINS CHEVROLET OF VENICE (2324 S TAMIAMI TRAIL, VENICE, FL 34293). THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 18,511. *BF *TR
I BOUGHT THIS CHEVROLET CRUZE NEW IN JULY 2017. FROM NEW, AFTER YOU DRIVE THE CAR FOR APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES WITH THE AIR CONDITIONER ON, THERE IS A CHEMICAL SMELL COMING FROM THE VENTS. IT LASTS ABOUT 5 MINUTES BUT MAY COME BACK WITH A LONGER DRIVE. IT IS A VERY UNPLEASANT SMELL. I TOOK IT TWO DEALERS AND HAVE WORKED WITH GM. GM ADMITS THERE IS A PROBLEM AND HAVE RELEASED PIT5726 DESCRIBING THE EXACT PROBLEM I AM HAVING, BUT THEY DO NOT HAVE A SOLUTION TO OFFER ME. I AM CONCERNED ABOUT INHALING THIS CHEMICAL SMELL.
CAR BATTERY ON VEHICLE WITH 17,000 MILES ON IT BATTERY DIED ON MAJOR STREET AND COMPLETELY LOCKED UP ALMOST EVERYTHING CAR COULD NOT BE PUSHED OUT OF WAY ON MAJOR STREET ON RAINY DARK MORNING FORTUNATELY WAS A SUNDAY MORNING WITH NOT HEAVY TRAFFIC BATTERY IS IN TRUNK AND AUTOZONE WOULD NOT PUT NEW BATTERY IN IT EVEN THOUGH ADVERTISE THAT THE WILL AAA CAME TO RESCUE WITHIN 30 MINUTES THIS CAR I WASA ON MAJOR STREET AT STOPLIGHT IN MIDDLE LANE AND HAD TO STAND OUTSIDE IN RAIN TO TRY ANDWAVE ARNS TO TRY AND MAKE SURE SOMEONE WOULD NOT REAR END ME.I WAS STOPPED AT A TRAFGFIC LIGHT WHEN IT WAS ABOUT 1 MONTH AFTER I LEASED IT ALSO CAME TO COMPLETE STOP ON SIDE STREET AND TOOK GM 3AND 1/2 HOURS TO COME AND GET IT TO TAKE TO DEALERSHIP ABOUT 3 MILES AWAY
VEHICLE HAS STALLED 4 TIMES NOW IN THE PAST WEEK OR SO. IT HAS PASSED INSPECTIONS AT FIRESTONE AND THE OIL CHANGE SHOP AND THERE ARE NO AREAS WITH SUGGESTED MAINTENANCE OR REPAIRS. THE VEHICLE STALLS AFTER BEING IN PARK OR HAVING MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND NOT MOVING, AND THEN ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE/MOVE AGAIN. ALL 4 TIMES I HAVE BEEN ON A LEVEL STREET OR PARKING LOT, WITH THE WHEELS STRAIGHT, AFTER THE ENGINE HAD BEEN RUNNING FOR SEVERAL MINUTES UP TO AN HOUR. I HAVE TO PUT IT IN PARK, TURN OFF THE VEHICLE, AND THEN RESTART THE ENGINE AGAIN TO CONTINUE DRIVING.
CLUTCH PEDAL DROPS TO THE FLOOR AND STICKS, DOES NOT RETURN. OCCASIONALLY STICKING POINT IS HIGH ENOUGH THAT IT IS STILL POSSIBLE TO SHIFT GEARS. SOMETIMES THE ENGAGEMENT POINT IS TOO LOW AND GEARSHIFTING BECOMES IMPOSSIBLE UNLESS DRIVER CAN PERFECTLY REV-MATCH AND FLOAT INTO THE GEAR. CHEVY SERVICE DEPARTMENT CAME BACK WITH TSB #PIP5558C FOR DEBRIS STUCK IN SMALL ORIFICE IN HYDRAULIC LINE AND ESTIMATED ~1500 IN REPAIR COSTS ON A CAR THAT ONLY HAS 40K MILES, AS THE CLUTCH SYSTEM IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY- WHY???? IT IS VERY DANGEROUS TO SUDDENLY AND WITHOUT WARNING BECOME UNABLE TO SHIFT GEARS IN A MANUAL CAR. THIS PROBLEM HAS HAPPENED TO ME ~5 TIMES IN THREE WEEKS, SOMETIMES WHILE STOPPED AT A LIGHT OR STOP SIGN AND SOMETIMES WHILE DRIVING AT SPEED. PEDAL CAN BE PULLED UP INTO NORMAL POSITION BY FOOT OR HAND BUT HYDRAULIC PRESSURE DOES NOT RETURN, THUS CLUTCH IS USELESS. THIS ISSUE APPEARS TO BE VERY COMMON AS THERE ARE NUMEROUS THREADS ON THE WEBSITE CRUZETALK.COM RELATED TO THE ISSUE AND TSB. THE FACT THAT THERE EVEN IS A TSB FOR THIS ISSUE SPEAKS TO ITS PREVALENCE. FOR GM TO IGNORE THIS DANGEROUS FAULT IN THEIR VEHICLES IS IRRESPONSIBLE AT BEST.
INTERNAL TURBO CHARGER FAILURE. NOT GETTING ENOUGH BOOST PRESSURE CONSISTENTLY. CAR WILL BE MOVING ALONG FINE DOWN THE HIGHWAY, AND THEN SUDDENLY DROP SPEED.
FLUID LEAK WHEN RIDING FOR ALONG PERIOD ON INTERSTATE UNDER DASH WHERE BRAKING IS
I RECEIVED A WAITING NOTIFICATION STATING 'SERVICE BRAKING SYSTEM' WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AND THEN MY CARS BRAKE PEDAL BEGAN TO STICK AND VIBRATE WHILE THERE BEING NOTHING WRONG WITH THE PADS. ROTORS, BRAKE LINES, OR BRAKE FLUID. IT COULD'VE CAUSED ME TO GET INTO AN ACCIDENT AND HURT OTHERS OR MYSELF DUE TO THIS FAULTY BRAKE SYSTEM.
FUEL INECTORS: AT TIMES IT SEEMS THE CAR GETS SLUGGISH, AND FIGHTS TO GET GAS TO THE INJECTORS. AT TIMES, THERE ISN'T ENOUGH POWER TO KEEP THE CAR GOING. MY CAR WAS ON AN OPEN HIGHWAY WHEN I EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE.
THERE IS A KNOWN ISSUES WITH THE 2016+ CHEVY CRUZE MODELS WHERE THE TOP MOUNTED BRAKE LIGHT CRACKS AND WATER LEAKS INTO THE TRUNK UNDER THE SPARE TIRE AND INTO THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT. THE WATER ALSO COMES INTO CONTACT WITH OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS THAT ARE BETWEEN THE REAR SEAT AND REAR QUARTER PANEL. THIS CAUSES A MUSTY/MILDEW SMELL IN THE VEHICLE AND CAN POTENTIALLY CAUSE ELECTRICAL SHORTS AND ISSUES DUE TO THE COMPONENTS THAT ARE IN THE AFFECTED AREA. AS STATED THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH THESE CARS AND A RECALL WAS ISSUED FOR THIS EXACT PROBLEM BUT THERE ARE MANY OTHER VINS THAT WERE AFFECTED INCLUDING MINE THAT WERE NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL.
VEHICLE HAS HAD A MISFIRE THAT ONLY THREW A SINGLE GENERIC MISFIRE CODE FOR CYLINDER 3. JERKS OCCASIONALLY WHEN SLOWING DOWN AT STOP LIGHTS OR SIGNS. RECENTLY WENT TO TURN AROUND AFTER MISSING A TURN, SHIFTED IT INTO REVERSE AFTER STOPPING IN A RANDOM DRIVEWAY OFF A CITY ROAD, SLOWLY BEGAN TO BACK UP AND IT MOVED ABOUT AN INCH BEFORE THE STEERING WHEEL COMPLETELY LOCKED UP, A/C SHUT OFF, CAR ACTED LIKE IT WAS IN NEUTRAL AND WOULD ONLY ROLL FORWARD, WOULD NOT ACCELERATE WITH GAS. ENGINE WAS STILL RUNNING, NO LIGHTS CAME ON, BUT PROBLEM REMAINED UNTIL I PUT IT IN PARK AND SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF. TURNED IT BACK ON AND IT STARTED NORMAL AND HAVEN'T HAD A PROBLEM SINCE BUT IT'S ONLY BEEN 2 DAYS. TOOK IT IN TO DEALERSHIP AND FOUND 0 CODES AND ARE UNSURE AS TO WHAT COULD POSSIBLY CREATE THE ISSUE DUE TO NO CODES AND IT ONLY HAPPENING INTERMITTENTLY. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATE 25 MPH WHEN SHE UNEXPECTEDLY SAW SMOKE COMING FROM HER REAR VIEW MIRROR WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT IMMEDIATELY EXITED THE VEHICLE AND DIALED 911 WHEN SHORTLY AFTER THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE WHERE THE ENGINE WAS LOCATED AND BURST INTO FLAMES. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT DOUSED THE FLAMES. A REPORT WAS TAKEN HOWEVER NOT AVAILABLE. THE DEALER WAS NOTIFIED AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO THE MANUFACTURER BUT AND A MESSAGE WAS LEFT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 28,000. THE VEHICLE WAS TOTALED.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHE NOTICED A FRACTURE ON ONE OF THE REAR BRAKE LIGHT ON THE SIDE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT RECENTLY A PASSENGER IN THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE POINTED OUT THAT THE REAR BRAKE LIGHT WAS FRACTURED ALLOWING WATER TO LEAK INSIDE THE VEHICLE INTO THE HEAD VISOR. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THEY NOTICED THE SEAL AROUND THE BRAKE LIGHT AND SURROUNDING AREA WAS NOT PROPERLY SEALED. THE CONTACT HAD NOT TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.
THIS IS FOR THE KNOCK SENSOR I HAVE CHANGED IT 5 TIMES IT WILL LAST MAYBE A MONTH OR AT THE LONGEST 2 MONTHS AND IT WILL THROW THE CHECK ENG. LIGHT ON AGAIN I HAVE CALLED THE DEALERSHIP THEY SAY THERE'S NO RECALLS YET AND WHEN THIS HAPPENS IF U TAKE OFF SLOW IT WILL SHIFT FINE BUT IF YOU TRY TO GO AND GET ON THE HIGHWAY AND GET UP TO SPEED FAST THE RPMS WILL GO UP REAL HIGH AND NOT WANNA SHIFT VERY WELL. THIS JUST HAPPEN TO MY WIFE'S CAR AGAIN TODAY AND ITS THE KNOCK SENSOR I HAVE ALREADY PUT MY COMPUTER ON IT AND THAT'S WHAT IS COMING UP ON IT . WE HAVE 2 OF THESE CARS BOTH 2017 CHEVY CRUZE LT 1.4 TURBO AND HERS IS THE ONLY ONE ACTING UP. *TR
I'M HAVING TRANNY ISSUES WITH MY CAR. ITS NOT SHOWING ANY CODES IN THE TRANNY CONTROL MODULE. ITS DOWN SHIFTING REALLY HARD AND SOMETIMES NOT EVEN SHIFTING. I HAVE TO PULL OVER AND SIT THERE FOR 15 MINS WASTING MY TIME WHEN I COULD BE GETTING MY KIDS OR GOING TO WORK! I HAVE SEEN ABOUT 30+ WITH THIS ISSUES AND CHEVY ISN'T DOING ANYTHING ABOUT IT. I DO A LOT OF CITY DRIVING. I DON'T EVEN DRIVE THE CAR HARD THAT'S WHY IM SO UPSET. $24,000 PIECE OF CRAB.
2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE LT, TRUNK FILLING UP WITH WATER IN THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT, WHEN IT RAINS. TRUNK LINER IS DRY ASIDE FROM THE TRUNK DOOR. BATTERY UNDER WATER.
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH ACTIVATING SYSTEM WILL FAIL AT TIMES RESULTING OT BEING ABLE TO DISENGAGE CLUTCH. SYSTEM HAS ACDV A CLUTCH DELAY ORIFICE VALVE THAT CLOGS AND ALLOWS FLUID TO GO INTO AN ACCUMULATOR , THUS NOT RELEASING THE CLUTCH. ITS BEEN A PROBLEM WITH EARLIER CRUZES OF 2011 2016. AND OURS 2017 ( GEN2). CRUZE TALK .COM A CHAT ROOM ALREADY SHOWS A FIX, BUT NOT 'GM" IDEA. WE LOVE THE DIESEL THAT LISTS 52MPG , AND HAS GOTTEN 60MPG IN THE PAST. BEEN BACK TO DEALER 3 TIMES ON A FLAT BED SINCE CLUTCHPEDAL GOES TO FLOOR AND NO CLUTCH ACTION. I MYSELF SEARCHED THE WEB AND FOUND TSB PIP5558C WHICH I TOLD THE DEALER AND IS DOCUMENTED ON WARRENTY CLAIM . THE TSB TEMPORARILY FIXED ISSUE. PRESENTLY DEALER IS ORDERING A SLAVE CYLINDER WHICH INVOLVES SPLITTING THE TRANSAXLE TO REPLACE. CRUZE TALK .COM STATES THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEM. CRUZE TALK .COM HAS A FIX THAT INVOLVES NO ADDED PPARTS BUT INSTEAD REQUIRES REMOVING THE CDV AND ACCULUMULATOR. NO NON GM PARTS. DEALER " CAN,T USE ANY NON G PARTS BUT REMOVING A PICE OR 2 WOULD SOLVE THE PROBLEM. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. ALREADY CARS HAVE REAENDED OTHERS CAUS CLUTCH WON,T DISENGAGE OR TRYING TO SHIFT UPP AND HAVE A TRUCK ETC. RUN OVER YU CAUSE CAN,T SHIFT GEARS. WOULD THINK THIS ISSUE HAS CROSSED YOUR DESK BEFORE. LLOK UP ON WEB "CRUZE CLUTCH PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR" AND SEE LOTS OF COMMENTS. CRUZETALK HAS SEVERAL WHICH INCLUDES ACCIDENTS CAUSE OF CLUTCH FAILURE. PLEASE HELP US/. LOVE DIESELS , HAD TO GIVE UP OUR2011 VW JETTA CAUSE OF THEM CHEATING ON IMMISSIONS. GOT A BONUS + VALUE AND BOUGHT THIS CRUZE DIESEL FOR ONLY2300.00 DIFF. WE ARE 81 AND 79 , THE ONLY NEW CAR WE EVER HAD AND NOW THIS. I AM A RETIRED MECHANIC SO I KNOW OF WHAT I SPEAK. I HOPE THEY DON,T MILK THIS CLUTCH ISSUE TILL WARRANTY EXPIRES. ALREADY FIGHTING OVER 5 YR 60,00 DRIVE TRAIN WARRANTY. WOULD LIKE TO KEEP THE CAR WITH 6SPD TRANNY PLEASE HELP
I WAS DRIVING THE VEHICLE WHEN THE ENTIRE CAR STARTED TO SHAKE. IMMEDIATELY THE CHECK ENGINE STARTED TO BLINK AND A WARNING DISPLAYED SERVICE STABILITRAK. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD THAT THERE US A MISFIRE OF THE FIRST VALVE WHICH CAUSE THE OTHER VALVES TO MISFIRE. AFTER DIAGNOSING THE PROBLEM, I WAS TOLD THAT ITS THE INJECTOR AND SPARK PLUG CAUSING THE PROBLEM AND THIS IS MOT COVERED UNDER THE WARRANTY. THE CAR IS LESS THAN 3 YEARS OLD WITH ONLY 40K MILES.
CLUTCH PEDAL DOES NOT RETURN TO THE UP POSITION AFTER PUSHING IT TO THE FLOOR TO RELEASE THE CLUTCH. ONCE THE VEHICLE IS IN GEAR, IT CANNOT BE TAKEN OUT OF GEAR. THE CLUTCH DOES NOT RELEASE EVEN IF THE CLUTCH IS FULLY DEPRESSED TO THE FLOOR. THE CLUTCH PEDAL CAN BE MANUALLY PULLED BACK TO THE UP POSITION, BUT HAS NO EFFECT ON THE CLUTCH BEING DIS-ENGAGED.
IN MOTION AND DEPRESSED CLUTCH PEDAL TO SLOW FOR A TURN. PEDAL STUCK TO THE FLOOR AND LIFTING IT UP DID NOT RETURN FUNCTION. THIS PROBLEM CAN RESULT IN VEHICLE IN GEAR OR IN NEUTRAL. FLUID LEVEL BETWEEN MINIMUM AND MAXIMUM.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 35 MPH, THE AIRBAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. (NISSANI BROS. CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP LOCATED AT 5750 MESMER AVE STE B, CULVER CITY, CA 90230, (310) 439-8107) WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT SUBJECTED TO A RECALL. A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WAS SCHEDULED WHICH WAS STILL PENDING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 3,874.
HAVING TROUBLE WITH THE TRUNK NOT OPENING WITH THE KEY FAUB OR TRUNK RELEASE BUTTON OR THE ONE ON THE LID! VERY AGGRAVATING U CAN HEAR IT CLICKING LIKE ITS TRYING BUT WONT OPEN BUT WHEN IT DOES IT HAPPENS AS YOUR DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD,ITS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES , AND FOR BEING A 2017 CRUZE AND NOT HAVING A CRUISE CONTROL IS JUST STUPID! ONLY 2 YEARS OLD SHOULDN'T BE HAVING ANY PROBLEMS VERY ANNOYING!!
VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION GOING APPROX 35 MPH UPHILL ON RESIDENTIAL ROAD WHEN IT STARTED VIBRATING AND "SERVICE STABILITRAK" LIGHT CAME ON. PULLED OVER INTO GAS STATION AND SHUT CAR OFF. SAT FOR 2 MINUTES BEFORE TURNING BACK ON. SERVICE STABILITRAK LIGHT REMAINED ON WITH SOME VIBRATION. MERGED ONTO HIGHWAY AND ATTEMPTED TO REACH THE SPEED LIMIT OF 65 MPH. CRUZE WOULD NOT ALLOW ME TO ACCELERATE ABOVE 60 MPH. SERVICE BREAKS LIGHT CAME ON AND THEN GOT AN ALERT STATING THAT POWER STEERING HAD FAILED. CAR BASICALLY SHUT ITSELF DOWN AND I HAD TROUBLE GETTING IT TO FULLY TURN OFF. STEAM/SMOKE THEN BEGAN COMING OUT FROM UNDER THE HOOD AND LIQUID FROM THE CAR WAS ALL OVER THE ROAD. TOWED TO CHEVY DEALER WHERE THEY DISCOVERED A HOLE IN THE ENGINE BLOCK, OTHERWISE KNOWN AS A CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. CAR HAD 27K MILES ON IT AT THE TIME. IT WAS AN EXTREMELY SCARY AND DANGEROUS ORDEAL.
MY 2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE DISPLAYED A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ONE DAY AFTER DRIVING TO THE GYM FROM MY HOME (ABOUT 7 MILES) AND SITTING FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND HALF. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS SOLID AND I DROVE HOME WITHOUT NOTICING ANYTHING ODD WITH THE CAR. FIGURING IT WAS A NON-ISSUE I LET THE CAR SIT FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES AND WENT BACK OUT AND TURNED THE CAR ON TO SEE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS STILL ON. I THEN GOT AN EMAIL FROM ONSTAR SAYING THAT MY CAR HAD AN ISSUE WITH THE TRANSMISSION SYSTEM OR BATTERY. FINDING THAT CONCERNING I TOOK MY CAR TO THE NEAREST CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP. THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY MAJOR CODES AND RESET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND SENT ME ON MY WAY. THE LIGHT CAME BACK ON THE NEXT DAY. CALLING THE DEALERSHIP BACK I MADE AN APPOINTMENT TO HAVE THE CAR CHECKED BY A TECHNICIAN. WHEN I SHOWED UP FOR MY APPOINTMENT I WAS TOLD I SHOULD UNPLUG ANY CELL PHONE CHARGERS AS THAT COULD BE A POSSIBLE ISSUE. THEY RESET THE CEL AND I LEFT ONLY TO HAVE THE LIGHT POP BACK ON AGAIN WITHIN 10 MINUTES. I THEN TOOK THE CAR BACK THAT DAY TO HAVE A MORE THOROUGH INSPECTION. THEY ENDED UP FINDING RUST IN THE TRUNK PAN. RUST IN THE BOTTOM OF A 2017 VEHICLE. SOUNDS LIKE A PRETTY BIG DEFECT TO ME. I WAS TOLD IF I WANTED GM TO TRY AND FIX THE VEHICLE IT WOULD RESULT IN DIMINISHED VALUE FOR MY CAR. UP TO THIS POINT, THERE WAS NO OTHER INDICATION OF ANYTHING LEAKING OR ANY OTHER ELECTRICAL ISSUES. THERE ARE MANY REPORTS OF THESE CARS LEAKING IN THE TRUNK AREA. TIME FOR GM TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS ISSUE.
I WAS UNAWARE OF MY VEHICLES RECALL UNTIL 12/15/2019 WHEN I'VE WENT TO THE TIRE MULTIPLE TIMES AND THEY ADVISED ME THERE IS NOTHING IN MY TIRE. THE SENSOR COMES ON DAILY AND THE PRESSURE DOES NOT GO ABOVE 10 AND GOES BACK FORTH FROM 0 . THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
"NO REMOTE DETECTED" MESSAGE OR INTERMITTENT REMOTE FUNCTIONALITY. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 5 TIMES NOW. I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO GET IT WORKING BY PRESSING THE UNLOCK BUTTON ON THE KEY FOB AND THEN IT RECOGNIZES THE KEY FOB. THE VEHICLE IS PARKED AND I GET IN TO TRY AND START CAR.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE THE CONTACT'S SPOUSE WAS DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 55 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE; HOWEVER, IT PERFORMED ERRATICALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO STATED THAT THE PISTONS WERE BURNT AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO MALLOY CHEVROLET. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MALLOY CHEVROLET (2700 VALLEY AVE, WINCHESTER, VA 22601, (540) 667-1000) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT WAS GIVEN A COST ESTIMATE OF $6,000 TO REPLACE THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 70,000. *LN
WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE QUICKLY THE VEHICLE FEELS LIKE IT'S GOING TO DIE OUT THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON, BUT AFTER ABOUT 25-30MILES IT TURNS OFF. MAINLY OCCURRED WHEN ACCELERATING INTO THE FREE WAY WITH AN INCLINE OR UNEVEN ROADWAY
FIRST THE CAR SHAKED WHILE WE WERE WAITING AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT ON A CITY STREET. THEN WE WENT TO DRIVE INTO A TUNNEL AND I COULD NOT ACCELERATE, WE HAD TO ROLL DOWN THE HILL TO KEEP MOVING. THEN THE BRAKES WOULD NOT WORK PROPERLY. THE CAR SAID SERVICE BRAKE ASSIST, I HAD TO STEP VERY HARD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL REPEATEDLY TO TRY TO STOP THE CAR FROM HITTING THE CAR IN FRONT OF US. ONCE WE STOPPED AGAIN THE CAR SEEMED LIKE IT HAD DIED. I TRIED TO ACCELERATE BY STEPPING FULLY ON THE PEDAL AND NOTHING. THEN I PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND TRIED TO TURN OFF THE CAR BUT THAT DID NOT WORK EITHER. IT WAS NOT UNTIL THE 3RD TIME OF TRYING TO TURN THE CAR OFF THAT THE VEHICLE ACTUALLY TURNED OFF. WE WERE ABLE TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON AND AT FIRST NOTHING HAPPENED, BUT THEN THE CAR STARTED TO WORK AGAIN. WE FOUND ON GOOGLE THAT I SHOULD NOT LET THE CAR GO BACK INTO AUTO-STOP IN THE HOPE THAT THIS WOULD NOT OCCUR AGAIN SINCE WE WERE GETTING ON INTERSTATE 95.
SINCE I BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE EVERY NOW AND AGAIN AFTER I GET GAS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON I KNOW THAT I TIGHTEN THE CAP AS IT SAYS IN THE OWNERS MANUAL AND REPLACING GAS CAP
VEHICLE WAS PARKED, ELECTRICAL SHORT. POSSIBLY AFTER LOCKING THE VEHICLE THE FIRE DEPARTMENT SAID. RESULTED IN FIRE DAMAGING THE WHOLE INTERIOR OF VEHICLE. VISOR MELTED, BURNED FROM CENTER CONSOLE, RIGHT THROUGH THE FLOOR TO THE FRAME, DAMAGED THE SEATS. CAR IS A MESS FROM SMOKE DAMAGE. CAR WAS DECLARED A TOTAL LOSS BY THE INSURANCE COMPANY.
THE FIRST INCIDENT OF THE CLUTCH PEDAL STAYING ON THE FLOOR WAS RIGHT AFTER START UP ON A WARM DAY. DEPRESSED THE PEDAL AND IT DID NOT RETURN UNTIL PHYSICALLY MANIPULATING IT FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. THE PROBLEM SEEMED TO GO AWAY FOR ABOUT A WEEK OR SO. THE SECOND TIME WAS WHILE DRIVING ON A HIGH SPEED ROAD (50MPH) WITH TRAFFIC LIGHTS. THANKFULLY THIS HAPPENED WHILE DOWNSHIFTING TO STOP AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT, HOWEVER, IT TOOK A MINUTE OR TWO TO GET THE PEDAL TO RETURN TO SOME DEGREE AND GET SAFELY OFF THE ROAD ALL THE WHILE TRAFFIC WAS PASSING AT HIGHER SPEEDS. IF THIS HAPPENED ON THE FREEWAY, IT COULD HAVE RESULTED IN A SERIOUS CRASH DUE TO THE LACK OF SHIFTING. AFTER RESEARCHING THIS PROBLEM, IT IS NOT THE FIRST THAT HAS BEEN REPORTED AND THERE IS A TSB REGARDING THIS ISSUE, PIP5558C. HOWEVER, THE TSB ONLY CALLS FOR 2 PARTS (FOR MY MODEL CAR- DIESEL) TO BE REPLACED, CLUTCH PIPE AND ELBOW, WHILE ALL OF THE CASES SEEM TO HAVE MORE PARTS NEEDING REPLACEMENT AFTER THE FIRST ROUND OF "FIXES", INCLUDING THE MASTER AND SLAVE CLUTCH CYLINDERS. THIS SHOULD BE UPGRADED TO A SAFETY RECALL DUE TO THE UNPREDICTABLE NATURE OF THE PROBLEM, THE FACT THAT YOU LOSE THE ABILITY TO SAFELY CONTROL THE SPEED OF THE CAR THROUGH SHIFTING AND THE FACT THAT SIMILAR PROBLEMS ARE BEING RECALLED IN EUROPE FOR THE INTERNATIONAL VERSION OF THE CAR. I STILL HAVE YET TO GET MY CAR BACK (WAITING FOR PARTS FOR A MONTH NOW) TO FIND OUT IF THIS PROBLEM IS FIXED OR IF IT WILL NEED MORE REPAIRS.
VEHICLE PURCHASED UNDER 1 MONTH AGO WITH 15K MILES ON IT. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY AT A RED LIGHT WITH AUTO STOP ENGAGED, I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE AS LIGHT TURNED GREEN; AUTO STOP ATTEMPTED TO TURN ON, THEN SEEMINGLY FAILED AND VEHICLE COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. REQUIRED ME TO PUT VEHICLE IN PARK, THEN TURN KEY SO IGNITION WAS OFF THEN BACK ON AGAIN, VEHICLE CAME BACK ON WITH NO ISSUES AND I DROVE AWAY. OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE WAS 109 F, AND THIS OCCURED AT THE END OF MY 25 MILE DRIVE HOME FROM WORK USING MOSTLY SURFACE STREETS.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING UP A HILL AT 45 MPH, THE CONTACT RELEASED THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO ACCELERATE ON ITS OWN WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL TO STOP THE VEHICLE. ONCE HE STOPPED THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE RESUMED NORMAL DRIVING FUNCTION. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY; THEREFORE, THE CONTACT WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE REPAIR COSTS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000.
The contact owns a 2017 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated while he was attempting to start the vehicle, and while attempting to turn the vehicle off, he observed that the "remote key not detected" message was displayed. The contact stated that he had gone through several replacement key fobs. The contact had taken the vehicle to a local dealer, where he was sold a new key fob. The vehicle was not diagnosed and only the key fob was replaced. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The contact researched online and related the failure to manufacturer Technical Service Bulletin Number: 16-NA-396 (Intermittent Operation of Key Fobs - Electrical System). The failure mileage was 117,000.
CYLINDER MISS FIREING JERKS REALLY BAD BACK AND FOURTH AT HIGH RMPS 7000 BEFORS SHIFTS FEELA LIKE A PISTON ISSUES AND ALSO THAT FEELA.LIKEWNGINE GOING BLOW UP
CAR HAVING MAJOR MISS FIREING AND VERY BAD JERKING BACK AND FOURTH AT HIGH RI RMP.7000 AND DOES IT ALOT WHICH IA CAUSING ME TO HAVE MORE PAIN AND INJURY TO.MY.BACK. AM DISABLE VETERAN. IM IM ALOT OF PAIN AND CAUSINF MY RECENT BACK SURGERY TO HAVE MORE ISSUES DUE TO A @#$%ED UP CAR POOR DESIGN
The contact owns a 2017 Chevrolet Cruze. The contact stated that while driving approximately 40-45 MPH, the check engine warning light illuminated and the vehicle decelerated to 30-35 MPH. Additionally, the vehicle made abnormal rattling sounds and failed to exceed 30-35 MPH. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, where it was diagnosed that the knock sensors needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred two months later. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer, where the knock sensors and the engine were replaced; however, the failure persisted. The vehicle was taken to a second dealer, Zimbrick Chevrolet Service (1877 W Main St #200, Sun Prairie, WI 53590), where the knock sensors and the knock sensors terminal were replaced; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer, where it was diagnosed that the Engine Control Module (ECM) needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that they could not assist because the vehicle was out of warranty. The failure mileage was approximately 62,000.
I should have filed a complaint here after the catastrophic failure. The next time I may not be so lucky and it could cause loss of life. I was driving at approx. 65 MPH on the frwy when bang! An explosion under my hood that caused my car to jump over a lane, I slammed on the breaks, swerved but couldn't push the brake pedal down anymore. It felt hard and would barely move. i had no way to slowdown or stop! And traffic infront of me was slowing fast. I put all my weight on that pedal even tried pumping it, but it would only move alittle. Luckily the car in front sped up just enough for me to swerve onto the shoulder. As I slowed i could depress pedal alittle if I stood up on it out of my seat but stopping distance was like 15ft while maybe going 15 mph. This all happened in a matter of minutes i still dont know how I was able to avoid an accident. The engine sounded really rough. So I called the dealership they said to bring the car in. I had already spoke. With them that week due to traction control system and transmission causing instability and brake issues. I was mortified when I found out what happened I had cracked 2 pistons & the force was so strong it blew thru the membrane that seperates the break system, got oil in my break lines! This is a new car! Dealership said it was a known issue & GM determinedtitle was a design flaw. I had 2 pistons replaced and my break system flushed my car has never been the same. There's always something little and intermitten still with the transmission & Now the engine jumps while idling and stopped in drive it jumps so hard the car jumps fwd, feels like ill hit whats in front of me. I lost significant value at only 26,290 miles, i cant afford to trade it in on disability, covid turned into long haul covid, no affordable extended warranty. I have no piece of mind in a car I dont feel safe in. What happens when the pistons fail they didnt fix. How many injuries or lives must be sacrificed before they do something.
WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE INSTEAD OF THE CAR SPEEDING UP IT WILL STALL OR SLOW DOWN. MY CAR HAD STOPPED ON ME IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC BEFORE WHILE DRIVING. I HAD TO TURN MY CAR OFF AND TRY TO RESTART WHICH IT STRUGGLED TO RESTART BUT AFTER TRYING A FEW TIMES IT STARTED. THE DEALERSHIP STATED IT WAS AN ISSUE WITH THE FUEL INJECTOR. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON A CITY STREET AND ALSO WHEN TURNING OR ENTERING THE HIGHWAY
DIGITAL GAUGE CLUSTER EVENTUALLY SHORTS DUE TO FACTORY-INSTALLED WIRING BEING TOO SHORT. NEEDS A SPECIAL WIRING HARNESS TO LENGTHEN THE WIRES TO PREVENT PREMATURE WEAR. AFFECTS EVERYTHING FROM THE RADIO, TO CRITICAL VEHICLE INFORMATION SUCH AS MILEAGE, FUEL LEVEL, CURRENT SPEED, RPMS, ETC. THIS ISSUE CAN OCCUR AT ANY TIME. IN MY PARTICULAR CASE, THE VEHICLE WAS OPERATING FINE IN THE MORNING, WAS SHUT OFF, AND THEN NO LONGER FUNCTIONING IN THE AFTERNOON UPON STARTING UP AGAIN.
BOUGHT MY CAR IN SEPTEMBER AND IT WAS RUNNING FINE. I LIVE IN ARIZONA AND NOW THAT IT'S JULY IT'S VERY HOT OUTSIDE. I NOTICED ABOUT A MONTH AGO MY CAR STARTED STALLING FOR A MOMENT WHEN I WOULD TRY TO ACCELERATE ON THE FREEWAY. AND NOW IT HAS RANDOMLY STARTED STALLING WHEN STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT. WHEN THIS HAPPENS I HAVE TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND TRY TO TURN IT BACK ON (USUALLY TAKES A COUPLE TIMES). THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT THAT EVER COMES ON WHEN THIS HAPPENS. I LIVE ABOUT 33 MILES AWAY FROM MY WORK SO I DRIVE QUITE A BIT AND IT'S GOTTEN TO THE POINT WHERE I DON'T FEEL SAFE DRIVING IT. THERE IS NO CHECK LIGHT ENGINE ON EVER SO I CAN'T TAKE IT INTO A REPAIR SHOP.
THE SERVICE STABILITY TRACK LIGHT CAME ON ALL OF A SUDDEN AND THE CAR WAS SHAKING. MY WARRANTY TEAM OUT AT 63000 MILES, AND I WAS ONLY AT 93000. I HAD TO HAVE THE INJECTOR REPLACED AND THEY SAID I ALSO HAVE TO REPLACED THE VALVE SPRING COVER. THE MECHANIC SAID THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH CHEVY CRUZE AND THAT GM KNOWS OF THE ISSUE, BUT REFUSES TO ISSUE A RECALL. IN JUST MY AREA, ONE DEALERSHIP HAS SOLD 300 INJECTORS AND VALVE SPRING COVERS RECENTLY. I DO NOT HAVE SEVERAL THOUSAND DOLLARS TO FIX A PROBLEM THAT GM IS AWARE OF. THERE IS NO REASON I AM HAVING TO FISH OR THIS MUCH MONEY AND MY CAR ISN'T EVEN OVER 100,000 MILES AND IS LESS THAN 2 YEARS OLD. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE WITH GM.
TRUNK WONT OPEN AT TIMES WHEN HITTING THE RELEASE BUTTON INSIDE CAR OR ON THE KEYCHAIN. I CAN HEAR CLICKING LIKE ITS OPENED BUT IT ISNT AND IT SAYS ON THE DASH SCREEN THAT IT IS. BUT IT WILL OPEN GOIN DOWN THE ROAD WHILE IM DRIVING THATS VERY AGGRAVATING AND DANGEROUS! DIDNT SEE ANY RECALLS FOR THIS BUT I NEEDED TO BRING THIS TO YOUR ATTENTION. DONT KNOW IF ANYONE ELSE HAS HAD THIS PROBLEM. IT STARTED DOING THIS A COUPLE MONTHS AGO. ITS JUST RANDOM WHEN IT DOES IT!
AT LOW SPEEDS, THE CAR MADE A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE REAR SUSPENSION WHEN DRIVING ON AN UNEVEN ROAD.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE HIGH MOUNT BRAKE SEAL WAS CRACKED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO HOMETOWN CHEVROLET BUICK GMC (2009 BARNES ST, REIDSVILLE, NC 27320, (336) 634-0050) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE THIRD HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,829.
THIS PARTICULAR MODEL HAS A AUTO SHUTOFF FEATURE WHEN IDLE. BUT ON A HILL, WHEN IT AUTO SHUTS OFF, THE CAR ROLLS BACK WHEN THE BRAKES ARE RELEASED.
I OWN A 2017 CRUZE AND BOUGHT IT BRAND NEW. HAD ISSUES WITH THE KEY FOB WORKING PROPERLY FROM THE BEGINNING AND MY ENGINE LIGHT COMING ON FOR SEEMINGLY NO REASON. ONE OF THE TIMES I WAS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT AFTER EXITING THE HIGHWAY, MY AUTO-STOP ENGINE KICKED OFF AND WOULD NOT COME BACK ON WHEN I RELEASED THE BREAK. MY CAR WOULD NOT TURN OFF AT ALL, I WOULD PUSH THE POWER BUTTON, THE CAR WOULD TURN OFF FOR HALF A SECOND AND THEN TURN BACK ON BUT MY ENGINE DIDN'T COME BACK ON WITH IT. I STARTED ROLLING BACKWARDS AND COULD NOT SHIFT GEARS. A SECOND TIME MY ENGINE LIGHT STARTED FLASHING AS I STARTED TO ACCELERATE GETTING ON THE HIGHWAY AND A WARNING CAME UP SAYING STABILIZER. I HAD TO PULL OVER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY AND TURN MY CAR OFF. MY CAR HAS BEEN TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR SERVICE EVERY TIME SOMETHING HAPPENS AND EVERY TIME THEY TELL ME THERE ARE NO CODES AND NOTHING THEY CAN DO TO FIX IT. I FILED 2 DIFFERENT COMPLAINTS WITH GM AND WAS TOLD THEY WON'T DO ANYTHING WITHOUT ANY CODES BECAUSE TO THEM MY CAR LOOKS LIKE IT IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY
THE STEERING COLUMN ADJUSTMENT LOCK DOES NOT LOCK PROPERLY. WHEN I SET THE WHEEL WHERE I WANT IT DROPS TO THE NEXT SETTING AND WHILE DRIVING IT DROPS ON ITS OWN. THIS MAKES ME SWERVE, SOMETIMES AT HWY. SPEEDS.
THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN IN MOTION AT ANY SPEED... WHEN PRESSING ON THE GAS"THROTTLE ALL THE WAY DOWN" VEHICLE HAS A BRIEF INTERRUPTION OF ACCELERATION AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON REPORTING CODE P0325. ENGINE KNOCKS/SHAKES AND LOSE ACCELERATION AND REDUCED POWER FOR OVER 50+ MILES AFTER EACH INCIDENT. I HAVE HAD THE ENGINE REPAIRED TWICE AND REBUILT. ECM HAS BEEN REPROGRAMMED AND GM FLEW A ENGINEER TO TROUBLESHOOT I AM AGAIN HAVING PROBLEMS 10K MILES MORE AND THIS IS ONGOING AND DANGEROUS. PLEASE PLEASE INVESTIGATE THIS AS GM HAS NOT TAKEN OWNERSHIP OF THIS DEFECT. IF YOU WOULD LIKE ALL 10+ SERVICE RECORDS RELATED TO THIS I AM MORE THAN HAPPY TO SHARE AND ONSTAR HAS PREFORMED VEHICLE DIAGNOSTICS AFTER EACH INSTANCE. WHAT EVER YOU NEED PLEASE LET ME KNOW! THANKS FOR ALL THAT YOU DO! THERE WERE A MULTITUDE OF INSTANCES VEHICALS ENGINE WAS REBUILT/REPLACED AT 7K AGAIN AT 14K AND NOW AT 40K POWER TRAIN IS SHOWING SAME SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF PREVIOUS ISSUES