NHTSA Owner Complaint Log
This page lists owner-reported complaints filed with NHTSA for the 2015 Dodge Dart. Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA and do not by themselves prove a defect or defect rate.
WHEN STATIONARY, IN MOTION, OR DURING HIGH VOLUME TRAFFIC ENGINE TENDS TO OVER HEAT DUE TO COOLANT TRANSFER TUBE FROM THERMOSTAT TO EXPANSION TANK BY CRACKING OVER TIME CAUSING OVER HEATING ISSUES REAR TRUNK HARNESS TENDS TO SPLIT WIRES GOING TO HIGH CENTER LIGHT CAUSING FAILURE OF 12V
TOOK MY VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP REPAIR A SAFETY RECALL WAS TOLD IT WOULD BE MONTHS BEFORE THEY WOULD HAVE THE PART AND THEY HAD NO LOANERS FOR ME THEY SAID ITS AGAISNT POLICY TO LOAN A VEHICLE AND NOW THEY HAVE ME DRIVING IN AN UNSAFE VEHICLE TO ME THIS JUST FEELS LIKE A WAY PUSH NEW VEHICLES. MY VEHICLE IS A SAFETY CONCERN I CANT JUST AFFORD GET ANOTHER VEHICLE OR RENT ONE AND HOPE FOR REIMBURSMENT
MY 2015 DART GT WAS AT A GAS STATION TO FILL THE GAS TANK UP. ALL WAS WELL UNTIL I WENT TO START THE CAR AND PULL AWAY, WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL COULDN'T DEPRESS AT ALL AND THE CAR HAD NO BRAKING AT ALL. I IMMEDIATELY PULLED THE EMERGENCY/PARKING BRAKE LEVER TO STOP THE CAR AND IT DID. THE INHUD DISPLAY SAID "SERVICE ELECTRONIC BRAKING SYSTEM" AND THE "BRAKE" LIGHT WAS ON AT ALL TIMES, REGARDLESS IF MY EMERGENCY/PARKING BRAKE LEVER WAS PULLED OR NOT. MY FIRST THOUGHT WAS TO CHECK THE BRAKE FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR. I DID SO ONLY TO FIND IT WAS MURKY, A REDISH ORANGE COLOR. I CALLED AND MADE AN APPOINTMENT WITH MY CLOSEST DEALERSHIP TO HAVE IT DIAGNOSED. I ALSO CALLED CHRYSLER CUSTOMER SERVICE AND INQUIRED ABOUT CURRENT RECALLS ON MY CAR AND THERE WERE NONE PERTAINING TO THE BRAKING SYSTEM, BUT THAT THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE 2013-2014 MODELS (RECALL CAMPAIGN # 15V800000) BECAUSE "...ENGINE OIL FROM THE VACUUM PUMP MAY SEEP INTO THE BRAKE BOOSTER, DAMAGING A COMPONENT WITHIN THE BRAKE BOOSTER." ,WHICH "COULD RESULT IN A LOSS OF BRAKE ASSIST, LENGTHENING THE DISTANCE NEEDED TO STOP THE VEHICLE AND INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH." WHEN I DROPPED THE CAR OFF AT THE DEALERSHIP AND RECEIVED THE DIAGNOSTIC, THEY FOUND "OIL HAD SOAKED INSIDE OF VACUUM BOOSTER CAUSING THE VACUUM BOOSTER TO GO BAD... VACUUM LINE AND MASTER CYLINDER."
MY 2015 DODGE DART WITH 2.4L ENGINE CONSUMES LARGE AMOUNTS OF OIL. I HAVE TO CHECK THE OIL AN ADD FREQUENTLY TO MAINTAIN A SAFE LEVEL. (UP TO 1 QUART EVERY 2,000 MILES) I HAVE OWNED THIS CAR FROM JULY 2018 TO THE PRESENT DAY AND HAVE HAD TO CHECK THE OIL LEVEL WEEKLY TO KEEP IT FROM DROPPING BELOW THE SAFE MARK. THIS IS A MAJOR HASSLE AND WORRY.
CLUNKING NOISE WITH OR WITHOUT ENGAGING BRAKE PEDAL
WHILE DRIVING DOWN MY STREET AND ACCELERATING, THE CAR STALLED OUT. NO WARNING LIGHTS ON DASH. HAD A HUNCH AND CHECKED THE OIL. IT WAS NEARLY BONE-DRY. ADDED TWO QUARTS AND IT APPEARS TO BE FUNCTIONING NORMALLY. I BELIEVE THE ISSUE TO BE EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION. WITH THE LACK OF WARNING LIGHT, AND JUST UNUSUAL OCCURRENCE, I COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED. I'M JUST GLAD I WASN'T ON THE FREEWAY (AS OTHER DART OWNERS I'VE TALKED TO HAVE BEEN).
CAR CUT OFF WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGH WAY RESULTING IN A ACCIDENT
MY CAR KEEPS CUTTING OFF AT RANDOM. THERE ARE NO DASH LIGHTS.I AM REPORTING BECAUSE IT JUST HAPPEN TO ME ON THE HIGHWAY
TOUCHSCREEN BECOMES UNRESPONSIVE MAKING IT DANGEROUS TO DRIVE, ESPECIALLY DUE TO AUTOMATIC SEAT AND STEERING WHEEL WARMERS THAT CANNOT BE DISABLED AS A RESULT.
THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY IS WEAK. THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY
The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. The contact stated while driving at 70 MPH, the radio engaged on its own and the vehicle lost power steering. Several warning lights such as the brake system light, the battery light, the airbag light, and the engine light were illuminated. The steering wheel became difficult to maneuver but the contact was still able to drive the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and was diagnosed with the battery and alternator needing to be replaced, and was repaired. The failure reoccurred today while driving. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who was unable to diagnose the vehicle as the OBD reader failed to work. The vehicle was also taken to an unknown dealer who was unable to diagnose the vehicle for the same reason. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 125,000.
I HAVE HAD THE BRAKES REPLACED TWICE DUE TO IT SHAKING WHILE TRYING TO STOP. I ALSO HAVE PUT ON THREE SETS OF ROTORS DUE TO THE SHAKING AND EVEN WITH BRAND NEW ROTORS THE BOUNCING AND SHAKING WILL NOT GO AWAY. THE NEWEST PROBLEM NOW IS THE BRAKES NOT WANTING TO WORK. I HAVE HAD THEM CHECKED BY MECHANICS AND THEY SAY THERE'S NOTHING TO DO BUT CHANGE THEM OUT AGAIN!
LAST NIGHT I WAS DRIVING ONTO A HIGHWAY ENTRANCE. I WENT TO SWITCH FROM 1ST TO 2ND GEAR. I WAS GOING ABOUT 25 MPH WHEN THIS HAPPENED. I PUSHED IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO SHIFT GEARS AND I HEARD A LOUD CLICK. I LIFTED MY FOOT OFF THE PEDAL AND THE PEDAL WAS STUCK, PUSHED ALL THE WAY IN. I HAD TO PULL OFF OF THE ROAD, AND BY HAND, PULL THE PEDAL UP. NOW EVERY TIME I PUSH THE CLUTCH PEDAL IN TO SHIFT GEARS IT GETS STUCK AND I HAVE TO WEDGE MY FOOT UNDER THE PEDAL TO PULL IT BACK UP WITH MY FOOT. I ONLY DID THIS TO DRIVE MY CAR BACK HOME. I HAVEN'T DRIVEN IT SINCE.
HAD THIS 2015 DODGE DART FOR 1 WEEK. THE AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON AND WOULD NOT GO OFF. I TOOK IT TO A DODGE DEALERSHIP AND THEY QUOTED ME 546.74 FOR A CAR THAT I BOUGHT A WEEK AGO, FOR A MANUFACTURING ISSUE THAT WAS OBVIOUSLY NOT CAUSED BY ME. THE LIGHT CAME ON WHEN THE CAR WAS STATIONARY AFTER SITTING FOR A DAY. THIS IS CLEARLY A SAFETY RISK FOR MYSELF AND THE CAR.
THIS HAPPENED TO ME LAST YEAR AROUND OCTOBER TO DECEMBER AND IT IS NOW HAPPENING AGAIN. I START MY CAR AND I WILL BE DRIVING. THE CAR WILL THEN STOP RUNNING WHILE I'M IN DRIVE, STEERING WHEEL LOCKS UP BUT RADIO AND EVERYTHING WILL STILL BE ON. IT IS ALMOST LIKE MY CAR DIED. I AM THEN STUCK WHEREVER THE CAR BREAKS DOWN ON ME AT AND I WILL TRY AND START MY CAR. IT USUALLY TAKE 2 OR 3 TIMES BEFORE IT EVENTUALLY STARTS BACK UP. AND I ONLY HAVE TO TURN THE KEY OVER ONCE AND IT WILL KEEP TURNING OVER THE ENGINE UNTIL I TURN THE KEY TO TURN THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY OFF. IT ALSO SEEMS AS IF I HAVE TO SIT AND WAIT FOR THE CAR TO RUN FOR A MINUTE WHEN IT DOES START BACK UP BEFORE I CAN TAKE OFF AGAIN OR IT WILL JUST DIE ON ME AGAIN WHILE IM DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. I HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON OR ANY OTHER LIGHT ON UNTIL IT SHUTDOWN ON ME. USUALLY ITS THE BATTERY LIGHT OF CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. BUT AS SOON AS IT STARTS UP AGAIN THEY ARE GONE. I KEEP UP TO DATE ON MY OIL CHANGES. I HAVE NO CLUE WHY IT DOES THIS. I ALSO RECENTLY CHANGED MY BATTERY. I ALSO HAD BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR TESTED AND THEY WERE GOOD. THERES TIMES I NOTICE MY CAR IDLING ON ITS OWN WHEN I START THE CAR AND WHEN I TAKE IT OUT OF PARK IT WANTS TO TAKE OFF ON ITS OWN. BOTH OF THESE ISSUES DOESN'T HAPPEN EVERY TIME OR EVERYDAY. ITS SCARY WHEN IT DOES HAPPEN AS I COULD BE GOING DOWN THE INTERSTATE WHEN MY CAR RANDOMLY WANTS TO SHUT DOWN ON ME. IT FEELS UNSAFE.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE OPERATING THE VEHICLE, THE REAR SIGNAL LIGHTS AND BRAKE LIGHTS FAILED TO ILLUMINATE. ADDITIONALLY, THE TRUNK LID WOULD NOT OPEN. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE FAILURE WAS DUE TO A FAULTY WIRING HARNESS. THE WIRING HARNESS WAS REPLACED AND THE FAILURE WAS REMEDIED. THE MANUFACTURER AND LOCAL DEALER BREWBAKER DODGE, CHRYSLER AND JEEP LOCATED AT 300 EASTERN BLVD, MONTGOMERY, AL 36117, WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 174,000.
The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. The contact stated while driving approximately 35 MPH and driving uphill, the RPMs became elevated; however, the vehicle was losing motive power. The contact stated that the accelerator pedal was not depressed during the failure. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the failure was intermittent at first but became a recurring failure. The contact stated that the vehicle was equipped with a manual transmission. The contact had taken the vehicle to an independent mechanic who diagnosed and determined that the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The contact stated that the failure reoccurred. The contact had taken the vehicle back to the same independent mechanic and the mechanic determined that the flywheel and clutch plate needed to be replaced; however, the manufacturer did not offer the parts for sale and the vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.
KEY IS STAYING STUCK IN THE IGNITION. I HAVE TO KEEP PUTTING IT IN AND OUT OF PARK UNITL IT RECOGNIZES IT IS IN PARK TO SHUT OFF AND RELEASE THE KEY. IT HAPPENS WHEN I TRY TO SHUT OFF THE CAR. IT STARTED ONCE IN A WHILE AND NOW ITS EVERY TIME I DRIVE THE CAR AND PARK IT.
THE VEHICLE INTERMITTENTLY WOULD NOT ENGAGE GEARS, WAS EXPERIENCING DIFFICULTY SHIFTING. VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO MECHANIC, FRED DRAKE AUTO WHOM INSTALLED NEW CLUTCH AND MASTER CYLINDER. A WEEK LATER, VEHICLE SHOWED IDENTICAL SYMPTOMS AND BECAME STRANDED ON THE HIGHWAY. A BURNING ORDER COMING FROM ENGINE, SHIFTER WOULD NOT ENGAGE GEARS. VEHICLE WHILE IN GEAR, PEDDLE DROPPED TO FLOOR AND WOULD NOT RELEASE. VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO IG BURTON, DIAGNOSED COMPLETE FAILURE OF THE CLUTCH SYSTEM.
I WAS STOPPED ON A STREET THAT WAS A STEEP HILL CHECKING MY MAILBOX. WHEN I WENT TO GO UP THE BRAKES WENT TO THE FLOOR AND DID NOT WORK AT ALL. CAR STARTED TO GO BACKWARDS. NO WARNING ON DASHBOARD EVER ABOUT A BRAKE PROBLEM. I WAS ABLE TO WITH A LOT OF STRENGTH PUMP THEM UP. WENT UP DRIVEWAY AND AGAIN WOULD NOT STOP WHEN BRAKE WAS APPLIED. VERY DANGEROUS AND SCAREY.
IN THE MIDDLE OF DRIVING OR TAKEING A SLIGHT CURVE, CAR WILL SHUT OFF. MOST OF THE TIME IT WILL REBOOT UCONNECT SYSTEM & THE AC SYSTEM AS WELL DURING DRIVE. RED TEXT IS SHOWN ON THE DISPLAY OF THE INFO SCREEN IN SIDE DASH BUT CANT SEE IT DUE TOO CAR RESETTING.
THE RADIO SCREEN GOES BLACK AND THE CLIMATE CONTROLS DO NOT FUNCTION AS IT IS CONTROLLED TOGETHER. THIS MEANS I CANNOT OPERATE THE FRONT OR REAR DEFROST WHICH CAN LEAD TO VISIBILITY ISSUES AND A POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS SITUATION WHEN DRIVING.
MY CAR IS RANDOMLY STOPPING WHEN I PRESS THE BRAKES. MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS COME ON AND HAD THE CAR LOOKED AT BY A MECHANIC AND HE SAYS IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE PCM.
NO OIL LIGHT ON, NO ENGINE LIGHT, AND IT STALLED. THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH OIL CONSUMPTION WITH THE 2.4 ENGINE. MY CAR DIED AFTER BACKING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY AND STARTING A TURN. Y CAR STALLED OUT TWICE IN THE MIDDLE OF INTERSECTIONS VERY DANGEROUS. BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON, MUSIC CONTINUED, BUT ENGINGE JUST DIED. THE STEERING WHEEL FROZE (NO MORE POWER STEERING), AND I COULDN'T PRESS MY BRAKE DOWN, IT JUST SAT THERE IN THE ROAD. I CHECKED THE LEVEL OF MY OIL AND IT DOESN'T EVEN COVER THE CURVED PART OF THE DIPSTICK, THAT'S HOW LOW IT IS.THE CAR STALLED OUT AGAIN, A FEW MONTHS AFTER THE OIL CHANGE. THE CAR IS NOT INDICATING WHEN IT NEEDS OIL, AND IS SHUTTING ITSELF OFF SO IT DOESN'T OVER HEAT WHILE DRIVING AT SPEEDS 70MPH+ AND IN THE MIDDLE OF INTERSECTIONS WHILE TURNING.
CLUTCH PEDAL REMAINS DEPRESSED INTERMITTENTLY ON START UP AND WHILE DRIVING. THEIR IS NOT ENOUGH PRESSURE IN THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER FOR ADEQUATE RESISTANCE OR TO RAISE THE PEDAL TO ITS STANDARD POSITION. THERE HAS BEEN A CLASS ACTION LOSS SUIT RELATED TO THIS EXACT ISSUE ON 2013-2015 DODGE DARTS BUT MY DEALERSHIP APPEARS BLISSFULLY UNAWARE OF THE ISSUE. START CASE# S1406000001 APPEARS TO DIRECTLY CALL OUT THIS ISSUE BUT NONE OF THE PROCEDURES WERE FOLLOWED WHEN INSPECTING MY CAR FOR CLUTCH RELATED ISSUES. THE TECHNICAL RESPONSE WAS "MAYBE YOUR MAT WAS CAUGHT BY THE CLUTCH PEDAL?" SHORTLY AFTER LEAVING THE DEALERSHIP I WAS UNABLE TO SHIFT INTO FIRST AND THE PEDAL WAS NOT RAISING. AFTER 3-4 ATTEMPTS I WAS ABLE TO GET IT TO RAISE HIGH ENOUGH TO DISENGAGE AND ALLOW ME TO SHIFT INTO SECOND, THANKFULLY I WAS CLOSE ENOUGH TO MY HOME I DIDNT NEED TO GO BEYOND 2ND GEAR BUT FOR THERE TO BE NO ACKNOWLEDGEMENT FROM THE DEALERSHIP IS APPALLING.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE BRAKE PEDAL BECAME HARD AND FAILED TO STOP. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS THE BRAKE PEDAL WENT FROM HARD TO SOFT SPONTANEOUSLY. THE CONTACT REPLACED THE FRONT BRAKES. THE SERVICE ELECTRIC BRAKE SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP RAM FARMINGTON (970 E WOODLAWN DR, FARMINGTON, MO 63640, (573) 431-7800) WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS DIAGNOSED AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VACUUM PUMP ASSEMBLY AND BRAKE BOOSTER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS LIKE THAT OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V800000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC). THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED HOWEVER, NO FURTHER ASSISTANCE WAS PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 87,049.
MY BRAKE CALIPERS ARE LOOSE ON THE VEHICLE SO MUCH THAT YOU CAN SHAKE THEM WITH YOUR BARE HANDS AND AS YOU DRIVE DOWN THE ROAD YOU HEAR A NOISE THAT SOUNDS LIKE A CLICKING SOUND I WOULD LIKE THIS TO B LOOKED AT AS A POSSIBLE RECALL IF OTHERS ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. IM WORRY THAT IT COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT AND MY SON OR I COULD GET HURT OR HURT SOMEONE ELSE. YOU CAN HEAR THIS NOISE AS YOU ARE DRIVING ESPECIALLY WHEN U HOT A SMALL BUMP ON MY PRIVATE ROAD I LIVE ON.
I'VE HAD MY VEHICLE FOR BARELY 4 YEARS AND I'VE HAD TO TAKE IT IN FOR THE BRAKES TO BE FIXED TWICE. THE BRAKES SUDDENLY STOPPED WORKING AND BECAME ROCK SOLID WHEN WHEN I TRIED BRAKING ON THE HIGHWAY. LUCKILY I SWERVE AND USED MY EMERGENCY BRAKES. OTHER TIMES, IT WORKED BUT I WOULD HAVE TO PRESS IT ALL THE WAY DOWN AND ONCE IT REACHES A CERTAIN POINT IT HAS A KICK BACK TO IT AND THE CAR DOESN'T STOP SMOOTHLY INSTEAD IT JERKS ABOUT TWICE BEFORE STOPPING. ON THE SECOND INSTANCE, IT HAD A HISSING SOUND COMING FROM THE BRAKE PEDAL AREA. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED, THE BRAKE BOOSTER WAS REPLACED WITH AN OEM. SECOND TIME IT HAPPEND (A YR LATER), THE BRAKE BOOSTER,VACUUM HOSE, AND VACUUM PUMP WERE ALL REPLACED BUT IT KEPT HAPPENING. $1,200 IN ON THIS SECOND REPAIRS AND I AM STILL WAITING TO GET THIS FIXED. A FEW DODGE DEALERS HAVE CONFIRMED THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH THE DODGE SEDANS IN FACT THE PREVIOUS YEARS(2013 AND 2014) MODELS WERE ALL RECALLED FOR THIS SAME ISSUE BUT THE 2015 WAS NOT RECALLED DESPITE IT HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.
WHILE DRIVING THE DODGE DART 2015, GOING DOWNHILL AT ABOUT ~40MPH, I WAS BRAKING TO DECREASE SPEED THEN THE BRAKE PEDAL LOST PRESSURE AND WAS UNABLE TO USE THE BRAKES IN ORDER TO SLOW DOWN. DUE TO BEING A MANUAL CAR I WAS ABLE TO DOWNSHIFT TO SLOW DOWN AND PULL OVER AND AVOIDED A DANGEROUS ACCIDENT. AFTER GETTING IT TOWED AND SERVICED AT A REPAIR CENTER THEY ROOT CAUSED THE ISSUE TO A BROKEN VALVE THAT CAUSED A FAILURE IN THE HYDRAULICS SYSTEM. ATTACHED DOCUMENTS SHOW REPORT OF VALVE MALFUNCTIONING CAUSING FAILURE IN VACCUM SYSTEM.VALVE FAILURE CAUSED BRAKE BOOSTER TO BE FILLED WITH OIL CAUSING THAT COMPONENT TO FAIL AS WELL.
The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. The contact stated that while moving off from a traffic light, the vehicle shifted out of first gear into neutral independently. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The contact was able to continue driving to his destination. The contact stated that he experienced the failure on several occasions. The contact took the vehicle to an independent mechanic and was informed that the pressure plate needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The contact called the local dealer and made them aware of the failure. Upon investigation, the contact associated the failure with NHTSA Campaign Number: 15V542000 (Power Train) however, the Vin was not included. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 DODGE DART. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MOTORWORLD - MILEONE AUTOGROUP (150 MOTORWORLD DR, WILKES-BARRE, PA 18702) TO HAVE THE HER VEHICLE REPAIRED FOR HER REVERSE LIGHT. WHILE BEING SERVICED FOR THE REVERSE LIGHT, THE DEALER ALSO SERVICED THE VEHICLE FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 19V293000 (POWER TRAIN). A WEEK AFTER THE REPAIR, THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHE WAS UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT CALLED THE SAME DEALER AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE NEEDED TO BE DIAGNOSED TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE FOR THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT WHILE AT A COMPLETE STOP AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT, THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY SHUTOFF WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT STATED APPROXIMATELY 5 MINUTES LATER THE VEHICLE RESTARTED AND RESUME NORMAL OPERATION. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 62,000. *DT*JB*JB
I HAVE BEEN EXPERIENCING PRETTY MUCH EVERY RECALL THAT IS ON THE LIST NUMBER ONE IT STARTED WITH MY CAR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMING ON. AND THE CODES THAT KEPT ON COMING UP OR FOR THE PLUGS AND COILS. I WOULD REPLACE THEM AND THEY WOULD JUST GO BAD AGAIN IN LIKE A WEEK IT IS CAUSING MY CAR TO DO WHAT SEEMS LIKE IT'S MISFIRING. MY TIRE LIGHT IS STUCK ON WHEN THE TIRES ARE FINE. THE SPEED CONTROL STOPS WORKING ON AND OFF. WHEN I STEER THERE'S A LOUD CLICKING NOISE. WHENEVER I TRY TO SHIFT HERE LATELY SOMETIMES IT WON'T GO INTO GEAR. WHEN I TURN ON THE AC IT WILL CAUSE THE CAR TO MISFIRE AND THE ONLY WAY TO MAKE IT STOP IS TO TURN OFF THE AC AND RESTART THE CAR SOMETIMES THREE TO FOUR TIMES BEFORE IT STOPS MESSING UP.TODAY THE SCARIEST THING OF ALL HAPPENED I WAS PULLING OUT OF BRONZE AND WHITE SMOKE BILLOWED OUT OF THE CAR TAILPIPES I'M NOT SURE WHY. THE CAR IS ALSO SPORADICALLY NOT GOING IN GEAR WHEN I AM ON THE HIGHWAY MAKING ME WORRY THAT ME AND MY FIVE KIDS ARE IN DANGER DUE TO SOMEONE RAIKKONEN TO ME BECAUSE MY CAR WILL NOT GO UP TO SPEED AND WILL NOT SHIFT INTO THE RIGHT GEAR AND MISFIRES AND WILL NOT GO OVER LIKE 30 MILES PER HOUR AND PUTZ. I REPLACE PARTS AND IT SEEMS TO WORK WELL FOR A WEEK OR TWO BUT MY CAR IS NOT ON THE RECALL LIST THEY SAY THAT EVERY SINGLE THING THAT IS ON THE RECALL LIST IS HAPPENING TO MY CAR. I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO ABOUT ALL OF THIS I HONESTLY YOU JUST THINK THAT DART NEEDS TO TAKE THE CAR BACK.. LIKE RECALL IT COMPLETELY. THIS CAR HAS BEEN NOTHING BUT TROUBLE AFTER THE FIRST YEAR OF DRIVING IT. *TR
BOUGHT A USED VEHICLE FOR MY DAUGHTER. DEALERSHIP PUT NEW TIRES ON THE VEHICLE. OWED IT LESS THAN 10 DAYS AND THERE'S A BULGE ON SIDEWALL OF KUHMO SOLUS 225/40R18. NOTICED WHEN FILLING GAS INTO VEHICLE. ATTEMPTING TO CONTACT TIRE COMPANY REGARDING RECALLS. NO POTHOLES HAVE BEEN HIT. ONLY 681 MILES ON TIRES. *TR
ON TWO SEPARATE OCCASIONS TWO WEEKS APART MY CAR LOST COMPLETE POWER. THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED I WAS PARKED IN FRONT OF A RESTAURANT I COULD NOT GET THE CAR TO START AND THE SECOND TIME IT WAS AFTER MIDNIGHT I WAS LEAVING WORK AND I TURNED INTO A MAJOR HIGHWAY(THANK GOD THERE WASN'T AND BIG TRUCKS COMING)CAUSE AS SOON AS I TURNED ONTO THIS HIGHWAY MY CAR LOST ALL POWER AND WOULD NOT START.I WORK ON A HIGHWAY WHERE THERE ARE ABOUT EIGHT DIFFERENT TRUCK STOPS WHO ALL SERVICE AND PROVIDE FUEL FOR EIGHTEEN WHEELERS I COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED. *TR
THE RECALL FOR THE GEAR SHIFT HAS BEEN WORKED ON BY A DODGE SERVICE DEALER AND I'M STILL HAVING ISSUES IF THE GEAR STICKING INTERMITTENTLY WHERE I CAN'T SWITCH FROM DRIVE TO PARK AND I GET STRANDED IN THE HIGHWAY. I AM A SINGLE MOM WITH A 5 MONTH OLD AND I AM AFRAID FOR US. I HAVE TAKEN BACK TO SERVICE FOR A RECHECK AND THEY SAY EVERYTHING IS FINE. IT'S NOT FINE! THIS HAPPENS. *TR
2015 DODGE DART (CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER) / (CLUTCH CABLE) PREMATURELY FAILED IN WHEREFORE THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM IS DEFECTIVE THE 'CLUTCH PEDAL LOSES PRESSURE, STICKS TO THE FLOOR, AND FAILS TO ENGAGE/DISENGAGE GEARS." WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE ON MAY 22ND, 2020 THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT ENGAGE IN CLUTCH SHIFTING AND WAS A RESULT OF POTENTIAL COLLISION IN OPERATION OF THE VEHICLE. THEREFORE, RESULT THE DODGE DART WILL STALL, FAIL TO ACCELERATE AND SUFFER FROM PREMATURE FAILURE OF THE CLUTCH COMPONENTS, INCLUDING THE "CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER AND RESERVOIR HOSE, CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER, RELEASE BEARING, CLUTCH DISC, PRESSURE PLATE AND FLYWHEEL.' *TR
I had to replace my engine, my transmission is slipping and not shifting gears properly. It has been doing it for almost 2 years now. The suspensions are horrible
MASTER CLUTCH CYLINDER / CLUTCH / CVC DELETE VALVE COMPLETE FAILURE, CAUSING VEHICLE WHILE IN OPERATION TO GET STUCK INTO GEAR AND CLUTCH TO DROP TO FLOOR. PREMATURE CLUTCH FAIL DUE TO THE CVC DELETE VALVE AND PLASTIC MATERIAL USED IN MASTER CYLINDER, THE CVC DELETE VALVE IMPACTS HYDRAULIC PRESSURE OF CLUTCH CAUSING A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE WHILE OPERATING VEHICLE AND DRIVER BECOMES STRANDED. THE CLUTCH, DUE TO THE MANUFACTURING OF THE PLASTIC FITTING DISENGAGES MAKING SHIFTING NOT POSSIBLE FOR DRIVER.
MY 2015 DODGE DART HAS BEEN OPERATING VERY WELL UNTIL THE LAST FEW WEEKS. RECENTLY I WILL BE DRIVING ON THE ROAD SHIFT THE CAR INTO ANY GEAR ACCELERATE AND THE RPMS WILL GO TO 6000-6500, BUT THE CAR GOES NO WHERE. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME EVERY TIME I GET INTO IT AND NOW I DON'T FEEL SAFE. I TOOK IT TO TWO DIFFERENT DEALERSHIPS WHICH BOTH OF THEM STATED THIS WAS A DODGE ISSUE; WHERE THERE IS OPEN LAWSUITS AND LEMON LAW ACTS IN PROGRESS FOR THIS SAME ISSUE. THE 2016 RECALL FOR 2016 DODGE DARTS EXPLAINS EVERY PROBLEM I'M HAVING AND EVEN SAYS THE PARTS THAT HAVE GONE BAD WILL GO BAD. IT ALSO STATES THAT THE PROBLEM MAY AFFECT MANUAL TRANSMISSION 2015 DARTS. THE DODGE MECHANICS TOLD ME I NEED A NEW CLUTCH, THROW OUT BEARING, AND FLY WHEEL. $2,000 FIX IN WHICH THEY SAID WOULD ONLY BE A BAND AIDE BECAUSE IT'S A DEFECT WITH DODGE DARTS AND IT WILL CONTINUALLY HAPPEN NO MATTER HOW I DRIVE OR HOW OFTEN I REPLACE THE PARTS. DODGE CORPORATE HAS OCCUPIED MOST OF MY WEEK ON THE PHONE AND THEY KEEP DENYING ME ASSISTANCE, PLUS KEEP CLOSING MY CASES WITH NO REASON WHY.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2015 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND UNOCCUPIED, FIRE EMITTED FROM UNDER THE HOOD. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS CALLED AND EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN UNKNOWN LOCATION. THE CONTACT'S INSURANCE COMPANY INVESTIGATED AND STATED THAT THE FIRE STARTED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT DUE TO AN ELECTRICAL FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED A CASE WAS OPENED AND A FIELD INSPECTOR WAS TO INSPECT THE TO DETERMINE THE FAILURE CAUSE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,420. *LN *JS
THE KEY SOMETIMES GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND TAKES A WHILE TO TAKE OUT.
AGAIN THE SAME PROBLEM , BATTERY LIGHT STILL ON . I INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR .BUT STILL DOING THE SAME. THING. CALLED DODGE AND THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. AND WANT TO CHARGE ME $169.00 DOLLARS FOR A DIAGNOSIS. NO WARRANTY. SO RUNS TILL THE BATTERY IS DRAINED. AND I'M STRANDED. HELP PLEASE.
SEVERAL DIFFERENT INCIDENTS, IN MOTION, ON HIGHWAY, ENGINE STALLED, NEARLY REAR ENDED BY TRACTOR TRAILER. ON CITY STREET, STOPPED AT RED LIGHT, LIGHT TURNS GREEN, ENTERED INTERSECTION, ENGINE STALLED, VEHICLE BEHIND ME HAD TO SWERVE TO AVOID HITTING ME, 3 PASSENGERS, 2 CHILDREN. SEVERAL TIMES SAME ISSUE, ENGINE ALWAYS STALLS WITHOUT WARNING. *TR
MY BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON GOING TO WORK , LEFT WORK BATTERY LIGHT WAS OUT. NEXT DAY GOING THUR A DRIVE THUR TO GET FOOD BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON AGAIN AND CAR STARTS RUNNING ROUGH LIKE IT WANTED TO STALL OUT. LEFT TO GO HOME. CAR WOULD NOT RUN FASTER THEN 15MPG THE WHOLE WAY BACK. THE DRIVER'S DASHBOARD WAS GOING HAYWIRE AND EVERYTHING WAS FLASHING ON MY DASHBOARD AND NO POWER STEERING AT ALL. GOT HOME CAR WON'T START. TOOK BATTERY TO HAVE IT CHECKED AND RECHARGED. WENT BACK TO NORMAL. ONE WEEK LATER BATTERY LIGHT BACK ON AGAIN. LEFT WORK AGAIN LIGHT WENT OUT AGAIN. LUCKILY I WASN'T ON THE HIGHWAY WITHOUT POWER STEERING COULD'VE BEEN HAZARDOUS AND MAYBE DEADLY. DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. NO WARRANTY.
I BOUGHT THIS CAR NOT EVEN A YEAR AGO AND IT HAS BEEN SHAKING EVER SINCE THE CV AXELS GOT PLAY IN THEM CAUSE THE CAR TO SHAKE AND THEY WORE DOWN VERY FAST AND CAUSE MY ROTORS TO GO OUT AND MY FRONT TIRES TO GO BALD
I DRIVE A 2015 DODGE DART. I WAS BACKING INTO A PARKING SPOT ON A DECLINE. SHIFTED TO N, COASTED WITH MY FOOT IN THE BREAK, UNTIL COMFORTABLE. WHEN COMPLETELY STOPPED, I SET THE E-BRAKE. MY BRAKE PEDAL DECOMPRESSED AND PUSHED BACK AT MY FOOT. NOW PEDAL IS STIFF AND WON'T MOVE. WHEN LEAVING PARKING LOT BRAKE PEDAL HALFWAY DECOMPRESSED. I WENT TO STOP AT THE INTERSECTION STOP SIGN. PRESSED BRAKES TO STOP AND COULDN'T.. THE PEDAL WAS ROCK SOLID, STIFF AS A BOARD. I THEN PULLED MY E-BRAKE, ONLY TO COME TO A SCREECHING STOP HALF WAY INTO CROSS TRAFFIC. I PUSHED BRAKES TO SHIFT TO REVERSE AND THE PEDAL WAS STIFF WITH NO PLAY. I SHIFTED TO REVERSE AND BACKED INTO A PARKING SPOT, HAD TO, AGAIN, PULL MY E-BRAKE TO STOP. CALLED A TOW TRUCK AND HAD IT TOWED. BRAKE BOOSTER FAILURE. DODGE WANTED 3K. MY FRIENDS SHOP WANTED $400. HAD CAR TOWED TO HIM. WHEN HE ORDERED THE PART, IT WAS ON NATIONAL BACK ORDER. SO I ASKED MYSELF WHY, LOOKED INTO IT AND FOUND OUT THE '13-'14 MODELS BRAKE BOOSTER WAS RECALLED. MY CAR WAS MANUFACTURED EARLY 2015. WHEN I CHECKED THE VIN, THERE WAS NO RECALL. BUT SEEING HOW THE PART IS ON NATIONAL BACK ORDER, AND I'VE BEEN WITHOUT MY CAR FOR NINE WEEKS NOW, I'M STARTING TO THINK IT SHOULD BE A RECALL. IF IT ORIGINALLY WAS 3 DAYS TO 3 WEEKS, AND THAT'S NOW TRIPLED..
WHILE MY VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION, IT COMPLETELY DIED WHILE IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION AND HAD A VERY DIFFICULT TIME GETTING IT STARTED AGAIN.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. NYLE MAXWELL CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP RAM OF AUSTIN LOCATED AT 13401 RANCH RD 620 N, AUSTIN, TX 78717, (512) 219-3634, WAS CONTACTED AND REFUSED TO PERFORM A DIAGNOSTIC TEST ON THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED OR INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT 25 MPH, THE VEHICLE STRUCK AN UNKNOWN OBJECT IN THE ROADWAY AND THE VEHICLE BECAME UNCONTROLLABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AN UNSPECIFIED PASSENGER'S SIDE WHEEL DETACHED FROM THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE RESIDENCE. AN UNKNOWN DEALER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED BY THE MANUFACTURER TO HAVE THE VEHICLE TOWED TO SOUTH CHICAGO DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP LOCATED AT (7340 S WESTERN AVE, CHICAGO, IL 60636) WHICH WAS STILL PENDING. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 71. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.
MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. I HAD IT CHECKED IT'S NOT READING ANYTHING. MY RIGHT TURN SIGNAL LIGHT KEEP GOING OUT. I HAVE PAID FIRESTONE IN EAST CHASE IN MONTGOMERY AL TO REPLACE THE SOCKET AND I HAVE HAD THE BULB CHANGED OUT AT LEAST 3 TIMES. MY TRUNK STARTED OUT OPENING BY IT SELF. I HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED IN THE REMOTE. NOW THE TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL. THE REVERSE LIGHTS ARE OUT. I REPLACED THE BULBS. STILL WON'T WORK, THE TRUNK LIGHT IS OUT. NOW THE CAR HAS STARTED TO BEEP BEEP LIKE I HAVE LOCKED OR UNLOCKED THE DOOR WHEN I HAVE NOT TOUCHED IT. I HAVE TO REPLACE MY BATTERY EVERY 3 MONTHS. SOMETHING IS WRONG. I HAVE PAID MONEY AT BREWBAKER AND FIRESTONE IN MONTGOMERY AL. I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN I START THE CAR UP. THE CAR BEEPS BEEPS WHEN IT IS PARKED AND THE DOORS LOCKED.
Data synced from NHTSA on May 4, 2026