2017 Ford Escape Complaint Log

THE RIGHT REAR BRAKE MAKES A CLUNKING NOISE AND ALSO THE LEFT FRONT BRAKE MAKES THE SAME NOISE.WHEN TAKING OFF BY BACKING OUT OR PULLING OUT AND APPLYING THE BRAKES IT MAKES A CLUNKING SOUND

THE DOOR PANELS SEPARATE FROM THE DOOR METAL FRAME DUE TO POOR CLIPS OR FASTENERS USED AT TIME OF MANUFACTURE. TWO DOORS ON MY VEHICLE CAN BE IMPOSSIBLE TO OPEN. FORD DEALER INSISTS NO PROBLEM -- I DAMAGED DOORS AND THEREFOR 600$ PER DOOR TO FIX. I GO ON INTERNET AND SEE MANY MANY OTHERS HAVEING EXACT SAME ISSUE. BOTH DOORS STARTED EXHIBITING THIS ON DRIVER SIDE ABOUT A MONTH APART.. IF THE CAR CAUGHT FIRE OR I COULD A DANGEROUS COLLISION WAS IMMINENT WHILE PARKED, I COULD NOT GET OUT IN TIME. ALSO IF AN ACCIDENT OCCURRED, I COULD NOT EXIT IN A TIMELY FASHION

COOLANT LEAKING INTO ENGINE CYLINDER RESULTING IN LOST COOLANT AND OVERHEATING. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON WITH CODE P0302. RECENTLY BOUGHT VEHICLE UNKNOWINGLY OF THIS ISSUE AND ARE NOW STUCK WITH THE PROBLEM. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE AND THERE ARE A LOT OF COMPLAINTS OUT THERE FROM FORD ESCAPE OWNERS. PLEASE RECALL THIS VEHICLE

-PURGE VALVE SOLENOID REPLACED TWICE FOR EVAP SYSTEN, CODE 1450 OCCURED 01/05/2021 & 05/14/2021 AND -LEAK IN RADIATOR, UNKNOWN IF BLOWN GASKET. RECEIVED MESSAGE “HIGH ENGINE TEMPERATURE STOP SAFELY” WITH ZERO RADIATOR FLUED IN TANK OCCURED 11/2/202. THIS HAS NOT BEEN REPAIRED BUT I HAVE BEEN AWARE OF CLASS ACTION LAW SUIT RELATED TO THIS ISSUE.

My family has 2 Ford SUVs. A 2017 ford escape and a 2018 Ford Flex. The 2017 Ford Escape started having an issue a couple years ago regarding moisture/water seeping into the tail lights/brake lights panels. Our cars have never had rear damage or hit anything that would cause them to be susceptible to water leaking in. It has to be something that happened over time. When you lift up the trunk gate, if you push the trunk up high enough, you can get most of the water to come out. Well, during the rainy seasons the water builds up quickly and it caused the LED brake light to go out. The panel piece costs about $400 and to get it fixed at the local ford dealership was a little over $700 a year or so ago. Well, the same thing happened to the other side and it went out as well. Over the last 3 years since the problem started, my wife and i have been more aware of condensation/moisture buildup in taillights and have noticed a lot of fords with the same problem. Our flex has a similar less severe problem where the taillights form condensation in them but they later dry up. Water hasnt gotten through, yet. Because we have noticed so many other ford SUVs with this same moisture problem in the taillights, i wanted to take the time for my first time ever, trying to see if a recall petition could be started on these taillights that are not properly blocking water from getting in. If it was just a simple lightbulb replacement that would be one thing, but because ford installed LED panel lights, they are incredibly expensive to replace. If just our city has a lot of cars with similar problems just on Ford SuVs, i have to imagine there are thousands more across the country. Thank you for your time reading this, and hopefully looking into it. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

THE ENGINE IS LEAKING COOLANT INTO THE CYLINDERS FOR THE PAST YEAR. KEEP ADDING AND ENGINE MISS. ECOBOOST ENGINES ARE ALL DEFECTIVE AND SHOULD NOT BE SOLD...... NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND NO CODES PRESENT. NEVER OVER HEATED AND ONLY ADDED ANTI FREEZE TO STAY AT FULL LINE.

The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at unknown speeds, the vehicle started to shake abnormally. Additionally, while shifting from fourth to fifth gear, there was a violent clunk coming from the transmission. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer who test-drove the vehicle for an hour but was unable to determine the cause of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired, and the failure persisted. While the contact’s wife was driving, the failure recurred. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken back to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the cylinder head had fractured, and coolant was leaking into the engine. The dealer recommended that the engine and transmission be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline for assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 85,000.

PAINT PEELING FROM THE WINDSHIELD PILLAR ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. PAINT PEELED OFF IN A 6" X 1" FLAKE. THIS SEEMS TO BE A VERY COMMON PROBLEM.

MY VEHICLE BEGAN TELLING ME IT WAS OVERHEATING AS SOON AS I WOULD TURN IT ON IN THE MORNING(12+ HOURS AFTER NOT BEING DRIVEN) AND BEGAN SHAKING. I WOULD TURN OFF/ON THE VEHICLE AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WOULD APPEAR AND DISAPPEAR THROUGHOUT THE DAY BUT DROVE FINE. EVENTUALLY THE ISSUE BEGAN WHEN I WAS PHYSICALLY DRIVING THE VEHICLE, LEADING ME TO PULL OVER IN A NEIGHBORHOOD TO HAVE IT TOWED. FORD DEALERSHIP LOOKED AT MY VEHICLE AND INFORMED ME THAT THE COOLANT HAD LEAKED INTO MY CYLINDER HEADS(1.5L ENGINE). THEY QUOTED ME AN ESTIMATE OF $6K TO REPLACE MY ENTIRE TRANSMISSION. I HAVE NOT YET MADE THE DECISION TO GO AHEAD WITH THE REPAIR AS I AM WEIGHING MY OPTIONS. I HAVE ONLY HAD MY VEHICLE FOR 2.5 YEARS WITH ZERO ISSUES. BOUGHT AT AROUND 40K MILES AND TRANSMISSION WENT OUT AT AROUND 82K.

PAINT ON DRIVERS SIDE WINDSHIELD FRAME FLAKED OFF IN A 6"X1" CHUNK. THIS 2017 FORD ESCAPE SE HAS 31,000 MILES ON IT AND IS ALWAYS GARAGED. NO HAIL OR HEAVY RAIN PRIOR TO THE FLAKING. MANY COMPLAINTS ON THE INTERNET FOR THE EXACT SAME THING.

ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. RECEIVED CODE P0302 MISFIRE IN CYLINDER 2. REPLACED PLUGS AND COIL DIDN'T CORRECT PROBLEM. THE NEXT DAY I STARTED THE VEHICLE AND THE TEMPERATURE GAGE WENT STRAIGHT TO THE TOP READING IT WAS RUNNING HOT. CALLED A TOW TRUCK FIRST THING MONDAY MORNING AND DIDN'T DRIVE THE VEHICLE AGAIN. HAS 50,200 MILES ON IT. FORD DEALER SAID THEY WOULD LOOK AT IT BUT I HAVE TO GET IT TO THEM. SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE VEHICLE. I HAVE HAD THE VEHICLE SINCE JULY OF 2019. I FEEL LIKE FORD SHOULD GET IT TOGETHER AND ACTUALLY FIX THE PROBLEM AND NOT PUT BANDAID ON IT.

2017 FORD ESCAPE. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO COOLANT INTRUSION SAFETY RECALL. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED AFTER THE RECALL REPAIR WAS COMPLETED THE FAILURE COOLANT INTRUSION OCCURRED. THE DEALER ADVISED THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLEASED. THE MANUFACTURER DID OFFER SOME ASSISTANCE. *JS

AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF I COULD HEAR COOLANT RUNNING THROUGH THE ENGINE. TODAY I STARTED THE CAR TO LET IT WARM UP, WENT OUT TO GO TO WORK AND THE CAR WAS OFF. THE DASHBOARD WAS SAYING THAT THE CAR WAS OVER HEATING, CALLED AND HAD IT TOWED TO GARAGE AND THEY SAID IT NEEDS A NEW ENGINE WILL FORD COVER EXPENSES

IT STARTED OUR AS THE OCCASIONAL MISFIRE AND THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I TOOK IT IN TO A LOCAL MEINEKE WHERE THEY SAID 1 OF THE COILS (I BELIEVE COIL 2) NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I ALSO REPLACED ALL 4 PLUGS AT THAT TIME AS WELL. MAYBE A MONTH LATER IT STARTED MISFIRING AGAIN WITH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BACK ON. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE SHOP AND THEY SAID IT SHOWED THE SAME COIL AS NEEDING TO BE REPLACED. THEY RECOMMEND I TAKE IT TO FORD FOR BETTER DIAGNOSIS WHERE THEY TELL ME I NOW NEED A NEW ENGINE FOR UPWARDS OF 6 THOUSAND DOLLARS... SEE PICTURES FOR FORDS DESCRIPTION.

I PURCHASED A 2017 FORD ESCAPE 4 MONTHS AGO. MONDAY MY TRANSMISSION WENT OUT. WITH LESS THAN 100,000 MILES ON IT. I WAS STOPPED WHEN THE CAR JERKED, I TRIED PRESSING THE GAS AND IT WOULDN'T GO JUST THE ENGINE REVIVED, IT FINALLY JUMPED INTO GEAR AND I WAS ABLE TO GET HOME. I TOOK IT TO THE FORD DEALERSHIP THE NEXT DAY AND GOT A RECALL FIXED FOR THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE, HOPING THAT WOULD HELP THE ISSUE, ONLY TO GET A CALL SAYING I NEED A NEW TRANSMISSION.

The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving at 70 MPH, there was an abnormal noise coming from underneath the undercarriage of the vehicle. The contact veered to the side of the road and noticed the plastic coverage under the vehicle near the engine had folded up. The contact was able to slowly continue to drive to the local dealer who inspected and removed the remaining plastic coverage from the undercarriage of the vehicle. The mechanic stated that the vehicle no longer needed that piece and it did not need to be replaced. The failure persisted and the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who inspected the vehicle and replaced some of the plastic screws that held up the remaining front plastic cover however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 75,000.

The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving approximately 45 MPH, the engine started to misfire and started losing motive power. The contact stated that the check engine and Service Engine Now warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was driven to a local dealer. The dealer diagnosed the vehicle and determined that the engine malfunction was caused by coolant leaking into cylinder #2. The mechanic determined that the engine short block needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 89,600.

BOUGHT CAR IN DECEMBER 2019. IN APRIL 2019, ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, AND CAR WAS RUNNING ROUGH. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP WITH 35,000 MILES, AND WAS ADVISED COOLANT WAS LEAKING INTO CYLINDER 3 AND 4. FORD REPLACED ENGINE UNDER WARRANTY. DECEMBER 2020, WAS DRIVING TO WORK AND ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. ENGINE WAS RUNNING ROUGH, AND CAR WOULD PERIODICALLY JERK/LOSE POWER ON THE HIGHWAY. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP WITH 62,000 MILES, AND WAS ADVISED COOLANT WAS LEAKING INTO CYLINDER 1. SERVICE REPRESENTATIVE SAID ENGINE WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED, BUT IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE FIRST ENGINE WAS REPLACED AT 35000 MILES, AND THE SECOND REPLACMENT IS NEEDED AT 62000 MILES, LESS THAN 30000 MILE DIFFERENCE

WHEN I PRESS DOWN ON THE BRAKES IT MAKES IT KIND OF LIKE AN AIR SOUND OR SQUEAKING SOUND I HAVE TAKEN IT TO A REPAIR SHOP THREE TIMES TO HAVE IT REPAIRED. THE LAST TIME I TOOK A DARE THEY AGREED ALL THE FITTINGS AND JOINTS AND STUFF LIKE THAT. I WAS DRIVING TO GEORGIA JUST LAST WEEK AND A TRAFFIC HOLLOW TO THE TOP AND I HAD TO PRESS DOWN HARD ON THE BRAKE IT MADE A REALLY LOUD SUCTION OR SQUEAKING SOUND I'M WONDERING IF THERE IS A RECALL FOR THESE BRAKES. SQUEAKING SOUND MAYBE I'VE HEARD ONE EITHER YOU PRESS DOWN REALLY HARD ON THE BRAKE OR WHEN YOU HAVE TO PRESS THE BRAKE ALL OF A SUDDEN

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 FORD ESCAPE. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THERE WAS A MISFIRE IN THE ENGINE. THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE COOLANT LEVEL WAS LOW AND THAT COOLANT HAD ENTERED INTO THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MULLAHEY FORD (330 TRAFFIC WAY, ARROYO GRANDE, CA 93420, (805) 481-3673) TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE REPAIR WAS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 61,042.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 FORD ESCAPE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT UPON TAKING THE VEHICLE TO BONDY'S FORD LINCOLN (3615 ROSS CLARK CIR, DOTHAN, AL 36303) FOR AN OIL CHANGE, HE WAS INFORMED THAT THE LUG NUTS ON THE FOUR WHEELS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED DUE TO SWELLING. THE CONTACT WAS GIVEN AN ESTIMATE FOR THE REPLACEMENT AND THE LUG NUTS WERE REPLACED WITHOUT APPROVAL. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT THEN RECEIVED AN EMAIL WHICH STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER WAS UNABLE TO REIMBURSE FOR THE COST OF THE LUG NUTS DUE TO WEAR AND TEAR. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER WAS AWARE OF THE DEFECTIVE LUG NUTS AND THAT A RECALL SHOULD HAVE BEEN PLACED ON THE LUG NUTS. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 42,000.

TONIGHT, 11/16/2020, MY ESCAPE STARTED TO IDLE ROUGHLY. THE TACHOMETER WOULD GO UP AND DOWN BY AT LEAST 500 RPM WITHOUT ANY INPUT FROM ME. THE LIGHTS WOULD FLICKER. THE DASHCAM I HAVE MOUNTED TURNED OFF. I TRIED MAKING IT HOME AND IT JUST DIED. LOST ALL LIGHTS. I SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL AND COASTED TO THE LEFT TURN LANE. WHILE DOING THIS, THE AUTO START SYSTEM TRIED TO RESTART THE CAR, EVEN THOUGH IT HAD BEEN PREVIOUSLY DISABLED. I TRIED TO START THE CAR MANUALLY, ABOUT FIVE OR SIX TIMES. IT FINALLY STARTED AND I WAS ABLE TO MAKE IT HOME. I TURNED OFF THE HVAC AUTO FEATURE, MY DASHCAM AND RADIO IN CASE IT WAS A VOLTAGE ISSUE. JUST ONE MORE ISSUE WITH THIS VEHICLE. THE ELECTRONIC PACKAGE IS FINICKY AND HORRIBLE. IT HAS A MIND OF IT'S OWN. I HAVE ALSO HAD THE DEALER DO THE SERVICE BULLETIN ON THE [XXX] SYSTEM. IT STILL ACTS UP OCCASIONALLY LEAVING ME DEAD IN THE WATER UNTIL I CAN SHIFT TO PARK AND MANUALLY RESTART IT. INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

I exited my car to take pictures of a bird. The engine was running and I thought the gearshift was in Park. I felt the car bump me and realized it had started moving. The rear tire ran over my left foot and I found myself lying face down on the road. I tried to get up but fell onto my camera. I looked to my right and saw my car moving down the road, drifting to the right towards the embankment that leads down to a canal. I managed to get up and reached the car as it was about to leave the roadway. I tried to grab the steering wheel, but the rear tire ran over my right foot, then over my left foot again. My car went down the embankment, stopping just short of flipping over in the canal. Since there was no other plausible explanation at the time, I assumed I didn’t put the car in Park despite thinking I did. However, I’ve puzzled over the accident almost obsessively since it occurred because when the engine is running and the gearshift is in Drive and not Park, my car moves forward at approx. 4 MPH with little to no hesitation as soon as my foot lifts off the brake pedal. I DID NOT GET OUT OF A MOVING CAR. After the recall notice, I looked at the metadata from the images taken the day of the accident and it shows my car did not begin moving until at least 23 seconds after I exited it to photograph the bird. That also indicates it was in fact in Park. I had a broken rib from falling on my camera and a broken (crushed) big toe on my left foot. Other injuries apparent then and/or in the days following were considerable swelling and pain of my left knee and foot, swelling and pain of my right knee and foot, and pain along the outside of my lower legs. I still have pain from the accident, including arthritis in my left foot, pain along my outer left leg and inner knee, and pain in my left big toe. My camera and brand-new lens were damaged. I did not have the car inspected. My safety and the safety of others are at risk until the required parts for repair are available.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 FORD ESCAPE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A TRANSMISSION FLUSH WAS PERFORMED DURING A REGULAR MAINTENANCE REPAIR HOWEVER, THE FOLLOWING DAY THE VEHICLE FAILED TO SHIFT INTO REVERSE. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS THE VEHICLE SHIFTED INTO REVERSE. WHILE STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT, THE ENGINE REVVED UP HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO MOVE FORWARD. THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED OFF AND RESTARTED AND THE VEHICLE LUNGED FORWARD. THE CONTACT PULLED OVER AND HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO SUBURBAN FORD OF STERLING HEIGHTS (40333 VAN DYKE AVE, STERLING HEIGHTS, MI 48313, (586) 268-7500) TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT DECLINED TO PAY TO HAVE THE VEHICLE REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND INFORMED OF THE FAILURE AND A CASE WAS FILED FOR FINANCIAL ASSISTANCE WHICH WAS LATER DENIED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 84,500.*DT *TR

THE VEHICLE WAS IN THE DRIVEWAY AND STARTED ROUGH. THE CODE FROM THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT INDICATED A CYLINDER MISFIRE. AFTER FIXING THE ISSUE, THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO WORK. ON THE WAY HOME FROM WORK, THE VEHICLE RAN ROUGH AND THERE WAS A SIGNIFICANT LOSS OF POWER AND ROUGH IDLE. FOLLOWING THIS, THE ENGINE OVERHEATING INDICATOR CAME ON. THERE WAS NO COOLANT IN THE RESERVOIR, AND NO SIGNS OF LEAKING UNDER THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A FORD GARAGE WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THE VEHICLE NEEDS THE LONG BLOCK ENGINE REPLACED.

CAR LOST POWER WHILE DRIVING. NO WARNING LIGHTS. NO PROBLEMS PRIOR TO THIS. HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP. THEY CHECKED IT OUT AND SAID IT NEEDS A NEW TRANSMISSION. $6400. CAR IS FOUR YEARS OLD WITH 67,000 MILES ON IT. POWER TRAIN WARRANTY ONLY LASTED UNTIL 60,000 MILES.

PAINT PEELING OFF . 2017 WITH 27.000 MILES. BOUGHT IN 2016 IN NOVBEMER. THREE YEAR WARRENTY JUST EXSPIRED. THIS IS A MANIFACTOR ISSUE.FORD DOESN'T WANT TO PAY FULL PRICE.

ON 10/27/20, I WAS DRIVING MY 2017 FORD ESCAPE ON THE FREEWAY, WHEN I HEARD WHAT SOUNDED TO ME LIKE A SHOTGUN BLAST. GLASS STARTED RAINING DOWN ON ME AND I LOOKED UP AND FIND MY SUNROOF HAD "EXPLODED". FORTUNATELY, NO GLASS LANDED IN MY EYE OR CUT ME BAD, AND I WAS ABLE TO SLOW DOWN AND EXIT THE FREEWAY SAFELY WITHOUT CAUSING AN ACCIDENT. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE AND IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH FORDS.

MY CAR RUNNING NORMAL UP TO YESTERDAY, I WENT TO WHOLE FOODS AND WHEN I WAS GOING TO TURN IT ON THE CAR COMPLETELY OUT OF POWER (BATTERY) I WENT TO AUTOZONE AND THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR ARE GOOD. TODAY I WENT TO BOUNTIFUL AND AGAIN AFTER BEING RUNNING GOOD THE CAR DIDN'T START, I TOOK THE CAR WITH A TOW TRUCK TO A MECHANIC SHOP AND THE MECHANIC CHECK IT AND THE MECHANIC SAID THAT I DIDN'T FIND ANY PROBLEMS.

I BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE IN AUGUST WITH 113,000 MILES ON IT, AND THE DAY AFTER I PICKED IT UP, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. AFTER TWO TRIPS TO A FORD DEALER FOR SERVICE OF NEW SPARK PLUGS AND 2 NEW IGNITION COILS TO REMEDY THE PROBLEM, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS STILL ON. AFTER DOING AN OVERNIGHT PRESSURE TEST, THEY DISCOVERED COOLANT LEAKING INTO THE CYLINDER WALLS OF THE ENGINE AND THE ENGINE WILL NOW NEED REPLACED! APPARENTLY THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH FORD ENGINES AND IT NEEDS TO BE RECALLED LIKE THEY HAVE DONE TO OTHERS, BEFORE IT CAUSES A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WHEN IT FREEZES UP!

I'M GETTING A GAS SMELL IN MY VEHICLE IT GETTING STRONGER WHEN I TURN ON MY HEATER OR DEFROSTER .WHEN I SHUT MY CAR OFF THERES STILL A GAS SMELL PURCHASED THE CAR IN THE SUMMER SO THERE WAS NO NEED FOR THE HEATER OR DEFROSTER ONCE I STARTED NOTICED IT WHEN COOLER WEATHER STARTED

2017 FORD ESCAPE. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO INSTRUMENT PANEL. CONSUMER STATED THAT WHEN THE LIGHTS ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL ARE ILLUMINATED THEY ARE A DISTRACTION. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE EMERGENCY BRAKE AND 4X4 DISENGAGED WERE ILLUMINATED. THE CONSUMER WAS UNABLE TO LOCATE A DEALER THAT COULD INVESTIGATE THE ISSUE. *JS

APROXIMATLY 3 WEEKS AGO A WARNING SIGNAL CAME UP SHOWING THAT I NEEDED TO GET TO A SAFE AREA AND STOP THE ENGINE, IT SHOWED THE TEMP WAS ALL THE WAY UP TO HOT. I LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT 3 HOURS AND THEN ADDED SOME WATER IN THE RESOVOIR AND IT RAN OK FOR ABOUT 10 DAYS AND THEN IT DID IT AGAIN, SAME THING NO WATER IN RESOVOIR. I TOOK IT TO A GARAGE AND THEY COULD NOT FIND A LEAK, BUT THE MECHANIC THERE WAS DEFINITLY A LEAK. THEN I HAD SOMEONE ELSE CHECK IT AND HE THOUGHT IT WAS A CRACKED HEAD GASKET. HE THEN WENT ONLINE AND FOUND OUT THERE IS ISSUES WITH THIS YEAR AND MAKE AND MODEL WITH IT OVERHEATING. I AM STILL HAVING ISSUES WITH IT GETTING HOT, I KEEP A GALLON JUG OF WATER IN CAR AT ALL TIMES.

I BOUGHT THIS CAR 1 YEAR AGO WITH 52K MILES ON IT. LAST MONTH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STARTED BLINKING AT 62K MILES. MECHANIC DIAGNOSED IT AS CODE P0302, PISTON #2 COMPRESSION AT 90 PSI, ALL OTHERS PERFORMING AT 190 PSI. HE CONTACTED FORD WHO INFORMED HIM OF TSB PERTAINING TO ENGINE FAILURE. THE LIST OF PARTS REQUIRED FOR REPAIR IS 6 PAGES LONG AND MOST PARTS ARE ON BACK ORDER. I CONTACTED FORD TO REQUEST REIMBURSEMENT FOR WHAT THEY KNOW IS EITHER A FAULTY ENGINE DESIGN OR FAULTY MANUFACTURING BUT THEY REFUSED TO HELP. THEY DID OFFER TO SELL ME AN EXTENDED SERVICE WARRANTY WHICH WOULD NOT COVER THIS REPAIR. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE. FORD NEEDS TO BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR SELLING WHAT THEY KNOW TO BE A TICKING TIME BOMB.

WHILE DRIVING MY 2017 FORD ESCAPE ON A TOWN STREET AT A RATE OF 35 MPH MY TRANSMISSION BEGAN SLIPPING. A WARNING LIGHT CAME ON STATING ALERT TRANSMISSION FAULT SERVICE NOW. I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC IMMEDIATELY AND WAS TOLD THAT MY TRANSMISSION HAS FAILED AND I WILL NEED TO HAVE A NEW ONE AT A COST BETWEEN $4000 TO $5000. MY VEHICLE HAS $92,000.00 MILES. FORD IS UNWILLING TO HELP WITH THE COST OF THIS REPAIR. I TALKED WITH A CHRIS AVERY (CAVERY@FORD.COM) HE SAID THERE IS NOT A RECALL ON THEIR TRANSMISSIONS. HOW DOES A THREE YEAR OLD VEHICLE HAVE A TRANSMISSION GO OUT?

FORD 2.0L ECOBOOST ENGINE HAS A KNOWN MANUFACTURER DEFECT OF A CYLINDER CRACKING AND COOLANT LEAKING IN. OVER 125 COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME ISSUE ON CARCOMPLAINTS.COM. THIS ISSUE IS ACKNOWLEDGED BY FORD UNDER TSB 19-2028 BUT FORD DOES NOT ASSIST THE CAR OWNERS IN REPLACING THE ENGINE. THIS ENGINE CRACK OCCURS WITH VERY LOW MILEAGE (50K-60K MILES) WHICH IS HIGHLY UNUSUAL. THIS HAPPENED TO MY VEHICULE AT A STATIONARY STATE. STARTED UP THE ENGINE, GOT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY SAID I NEEDED TO CHANGE THE ENGINE AND PAY OUT OF POCKET OVER $7,000.00.

MY VEHICLE IS 3 YEARS OLD. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DIED OR JUST STOPPED RANDOMLY WORKING. FORD WON'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A MANUFACTURER ISSUE.

VEHICLE KEEPS OVERHEATING. WE CONTINUE TO ADD COOLANT. WE'RE ABLE TO ONLY DRIVE A SHORT DISTANCE AT APPROXIMATELY 20 TO 30 MPH AND THE VEHICLE WARNING LIGHTS COME ON AND THE VEHICLE BEGINS TO OVERHEAT AGAIN

MY TRUCK GOT HOT AND HAD WATER AND NOW THEY TELL ME THAT THE WATER IS PASSING TO THE ENGINE PISTONS AND IT ONLY HAS 72 THOUSAND MILES AND I HAVE LOOKED ON THE INTERNET FOR ARTICLES THAT SAY THEY ARE FORD ENGINE FAILURES

I am reporting coolant leaking into my engine causing my engine to lock up at around 75k to 80k miles. Torque converter needing to be replaced at around 80k miles. Torque converter clutch solenoid needing replacement at 80k miles. Rear CV joint axel needing replacement at 85k miles. Control arm replacement at 100k miles. The only recall is the transmission bushing, in which I haven’t fixed because I can’t move my vehicle out of my driveway. I have spend almost the same amount on this vehicle repairing it that I owe. The vehicle in a whole needs to be recalled. They are not safe and very costly in the long run. I am not happy with only 2 recalls being reported on this vehicle because I’ve read over 600 reviews with the same known problems and nothing has been done about it! If ford isn’t going to fix the known issues then the NHTSA needs to help the consumers and report these issues!

THE CAR STALLS ON AN OCCASIONAL BASES AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT AFTER SITTING AT THE LIGHT FOR A BIT. TAKING THE FOOT OFF THE BRAKE DOES NOT START THE CAR UP. I PURCHASED A MACHINE TO DETECT CODES AND NOTHING CAME UP.

MY CAR BEGAN LOSING POWER , COOLANT LEVEL DROPPING. NO COOLANT ON GROUND THOUGH. CAR DID NOT OVERHEAT. HOWEVER I COULD SMELL THE BURNING ANTIFREEZE WHILE PARKED, IDLING AND WHILE DRIVING . FORD DEALERSHIP ORIGINALLY TOLD ME THEY THOUGHT COOLANT WAS LEAKING INTO ENGINE. THEN HAD ANOTHER TECHNICIAN TELL ME IT'S JUST A WATER PUMP LEAK. I CONTACTED LAWYER . AS SHOULD YOU. WE NEED TO START CLASS ACTION LAW SUIT. THE PROBLEM IS COOLANT GETTING INTO ENGINE AND ALL THROUGH OIL. CONTACT BAD PRODUCTS LAW PLEASE ! I AM HOPING FORD WILL DO THE RIGHT THING HERE AND NOT BAND AID REPAIR MY CAR. HOPEFULLY NO ONE HAS TO BE INJURED OR DIE BEFORE THEY RECALL THIS ISSUE .

FRONT PASSENGER SEATBELT DOES NOT HOLD PERSON BACK WHEN BREAKS ARE FIRMLY PRESSED. PASSENGER CONTINUES TO GO FORWARD AND SEATBELT DOES NOTHING TO HOLD PASSENGER BACK, IF I WERE IN A CRASH MY PASSENGER WOULD GO RIGHT THROUGH THE WINDOW. THE LAP BELT DOES STAY IN PLACE, HOWEVER THE BELT THAT GOES FROM ACROSS THE CHEST TO SHOULDER DOES NOT TIGHTEN TO HOLD MY PASSENGER SECURE.

SIMILAR TO OTHER COMPLAINTS VIA THE SITE. I EXPERIENCED A FLAT TIRE AND WAS UNABLE TO CHANGE IT MYSELF DUE TO THE FACTORY PROVIDED LUG WRENCH UNABLE TO SECURING FASTEN TO THE LUG NUTS. IN MY CONVERSATIONS WITH THE TOW DRIVER AND TIRE STORE, IT IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE LUG NUT COVERS PREVENT THE LUG WRENCH FROM WORKING PROPERLY. AFTER CONTACTING MY LOCAL FORD DEALERSHIP, THEY INFORMED ME I COULD BUY A "KIT" TO RESOLVE. I ALSO CONTACT FORD CUSTOMER RELATIONS TO REQUEST REIMBURSEMENT FOR THE TOWING CHARGES AND HAVE THE "KIT" INSTALLED AT NO EXPENSE TO ME. FORD ATTRIBUTES THIS ISSUE TO SWOLLEN LUG NUTS AND CONSIDERS THE ISSUE A MAINTENANCE PROBLEM SINCE MY VEHICLE'S WARRANTY IS EXPIRED, I WOULD NOT BE REIMBURSED FOR THE TOWING AND I WOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR THE "KIT" INSTALLATION MYSELF. IT BEARS TO NOTE, I DISCOVERED THE FLAT TIRE IN MY GARAGE AFTER IT SITTING OVERNIGHT. SO I DO NOT SEE HOW THE LUG NUTS WERE SUBJECT TO SWELLING SINCE THE CAR HAD NOT BEEN DRIVEN FOR SEVERAL HOURS.

I HAD A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WHILE DRIVING AND ENGINE MISS FIRING. THE CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY WITH 57K MILES. I TOOK IT TO FLAMMER FORD IN SPRING HILL FL. TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. I WAS TOLD THAT THERE WAS AN OIL LEAK FROM THE TURBO THAT GOT INTO THE HARNESS. THE REPAIR COST WOULD BE $2,700 AND THE HARNESS WAS ON BACK ORDER AND IT WOULD TAKE ABOUT 1 MONTH TO OBTAIN THE PART AND REPAIR. FOR A SIMPLE $30 PART (THE TURBO SENSOR), THE REPAIR COST IS $2,700.00 AND OUT OF SERVICE FOR 1 MONTH! WHY IS THIS PART BACKORDERED? I BELIEVE THIS IS A COMMON AND KNOWN FAILURE BY FORD. THIS CAR NEEDS TO BE RECALLED AND THE TURBO SENSOR PART REPLACED. I NEED TO BE COMPENSATED FOR THE WHOLE REPAIR BILL DUE TO THE DEFECTIVE PART.

I WAS DRIVING TO WORK ON FREEWAY AND MY SUV STARTED MISFIRING AND THE ENGINE LIGHT STARTED BLINKING THEN STAYED ON HAD CODE ENGINE MISFIRE DISCOVERED THERE WAS OIL IN THE SPARK PLUG WELL ON ALL FOUR CYLINDERS

LIFT GATE KEEPS OPENING. IT IS CLOSED BUT SHOWS OPEN AND OPENS WHEN DRIVING. IN MOTION SITTING STILL. NONSTOP. EVERY SINCE PURCHASE.

I'VE HAD MY CAR TWO YEARS AND MULTIPLE THINGS HAVE BEEN AN ISSUE SINCE PURCHASE. REGARDLESS, MY MOST RECENT CONCERN IS MY HILL START NOT AVAILABLE LIGHT IS ON AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT IS ON AND WILL NOT GO OFF. I SENT MY CAR TO A DEALERSHIP TO DETERMINE THE ISSUE AND DISCOVERED THE SASM NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. HOWEVER THE DEALERSHIP STATED THAT THIS DOES NOT BECOME AN ISSUE UNLESS THE CAR HAS BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT. MY CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT NOW NOR PRIOR TO MY PURCHASE. CAR FAX SHOW NO RECORDS OF ANY DAMAGE TO THE PHYSICAL BODY OF THE VEHICLE. THE DEALERSHIP HAD NO OTHER EXPLANATION AS TO WHY THESE LIGHTS WOULD HAVE BEEN ACTIVATED AND I'M VERY CONCERNED THAT IT WILL CAUSE FURTHER DAMAGE TO MY CAR. AGAIN I'VE ONLY HAD THE CAR TWO YEARS AND WOULD LIKE TO HAVE IT LONGER, IF SOMETHING CAN BE EXPLAINED ABOUT THIS ISSUE.

ON AUGUST 16, 2020, RED WARNING LIGHTS APPEARED WHILE I WAS DRIVING INDICATING CAR OVERHEATING, PULL OVER. THIS HAPPENED ON A HIGHWAY CLOSE TO A SPLIT EXIT. I PULLED OVER ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY. DID NOT FEEL SAFE AT ALL BECAUSE OF THE TRAFFIC. I ATTEMPTED TO START THE CAR AND DRIVE TO A SAFER LOCATION, BUT THE CAR WOULD NOT START. I HAD TO WAIT FOR A TOW TRUCK. MY CAR WAS TOWED AND THE DEALERSHIP INDICATED THAT I WOULD NEED A NEW ENGINE.

AT 68,000 MILES, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AS I WAS LEAVING MY NEIGHBORHOOD. TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE FORD DEALERSHIP AND WAS ADVISED THAT COOLANT WAS LEAKING INTO THE ENGINE AND THE LONG BLOCK ENGINE ASSEMBLY WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED. IDS CODES P0301 AND P0316 - MISFIRE IN CYLINDER 1. I CALLED FORD CUSTOMER SERVICE (800-392-3673) BUT THEY ARE UNWILLING TO ASSIST SINCE I AM PAST THE 60,000 MILE WARRANTY. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE AND THERE IS A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN (#19-2346) OUT FOR THE ISSUE. THE VEHICLE WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY WHEN THE TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WAS ISSUED. IT'S UNFORTUNATE THAT FORD DOES NOT INFORM THE CONSUMER OF THE SERVICE BULLETINS. I AM NOW FACED WITH SPENDING $6,000+ TO REPLACE THE LONG BLOCK ENGINE ASSEMBLY.