NHTSA Owner Complaint Log
This page lists owner-reported complaints filed with NHTSA for the 2016 Honda Accord. Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA and do not by themselves prove a defect or defect rate.
Data synced from NHTSA on May 4, 2026
THIS 2016 HONDA ACCORD TOURING OF MINE MAKES SCREECHING NOISE AT 20 MPH OR LOWER WHEN I TURN LEFT. I TOOK IT TO BROOKDALE HONDA AT BROOKLYN CENTER MN TODAY AND THEY SAID IT IS NOT NOTHING BUT COMING FROM ONE OF THE SEATS. THIS CAR GAVE ME PROBLEMS FROM BAD TIRES TO WHEELS TO STEERING WHEEL AND DAYLIGHT RUNNING LIGHTS NOW. US GOVERNMENT SHOULD FINE THESE COMPANIES HARD. THIS IS A $35 K CAR AND WE CONSUMERS ARE FACING THESE UNWANTED ISSUES THAT SHOULD BE TAKEN CARE OF FROM HONDA WITHOUT ANY QUESTIONS. HONDA IS AWARE OF THESE ISSUES AND TAKE PRECAUTIONS AND LET THE OWNERS KNOW BEFORE WE KNOW IT. VERY FRUSTRATING...
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 HONDA ACCORD. THE CONTACT STATED THAT HE HAD DIFFICULTY WITH THE PUSH START FEATURE ON THE VEHICLE. WHEN THE BUTTON WAS PUSHED, ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS WOULD ILLUMINATE AND THE VEHICLE MADE A SCREECHING SOUND. THE CONTACT HAD TO PUSH THE BUTTON SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE VEHICLE WOULD ACTUALLY ENGAGE AND START. THE CONTACT SPOKE WITH LESTER RAINES HONDA (5102 MACCORKLE AVE SW, SOUTH CHARLESTON, WV 25309, 304-768-1251) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THERE WERE NO RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT WAS PROVIDED A COST ESTIMATE FOR THE REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALSO NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED THE SAME INFORMATION AS THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER ALSO INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT HIS VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY. THE MANUFACTURER OFFERED NO FURTHER ASSISTANCE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 36,000.
BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE IN 1 YEAR
THE DRL (DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP) INSIDE THE DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY HAS BURNED OUT. MY HONDA DEALERSHIP HAS ADMITTED THAT THIS IS BECOMING A COMMON FAILURE WITH 2016/17 ACCORDS. IF IT HAPPENS AFTER THE WARRANTY ENDS, IT IS A VERY COSTLY REPLACEMENT ANYWHERE FROM $500. TO $1,000. THE PASSENGER SIDE DRL IN THAT HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY AS I AM TOLD IN THESE ACCORDS IS ALSO BURNING OUT IN TIME AFTER THE DRIVERS SIDE DOES, THEREFORE INCURRING ANOTHER HUGE EXPENSE. THESE DRL LIGHTS ARE LED AND SUPPOSED TO LAST FOR SEVERAL YEARS. AN ELECTRICAL FAULT CONTROLLING THESE LAMPS OR SOME KIND OF BAD ENGINEERING DESIGN ARE CAUSING THE FAILURE OF THE DRLS. THESE AUTOMOBILES WERE BUILT WITH THIS LIGHTING SYSTEM TO AID IN SAFETY ON OUR DANGEROUS ROADS AND OWNERS OF THESE AUTOS EXPECT THEM TO STAY WORKING FOR MORE THAN A YEAR, TWO OR THREE WHEN PURCHASING A NEW CAR. THESE LIGHTS JUST BURN OUT WHEN DRIVING AT SOME POINT.
HAD BATTERY SENSOR PROBLEMS WITCHED CAUSE THE ALTERNATOR NOT TO CHARGE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY. AS A RESULT ALTERNATOR GOT DAMAGED AND WAS LEFT TO INSTALL A NEW ONE.
CLOCK RESETS EVERY TIME I TURN CAR OFF. MILEAGE PERFORMANCE PER TANK OF GAS RESETS ALSO.
CONCERNING THE BATTERY, I WAS PARKED IN A PARKING STALL AND WHEN I TRY TO START MY CAR TO LEAVE IT WOULD NOT START I HAD TO CALL A TOW TRUCK TO GIVE ME A JUMP. NO LIGHTS OR ANYTHING WAS LEFT ON I HAD TURN MY CAR COMPLETELY OFF AND THEN I TRIED TO START IT AND IT WOULD NOT START I WAS ONLY THERE LIKE LONG ENOUGH TO ORDER MY FOOD AND THEN TO LEAVE SO MAYBE 20 MINUTES IN MY CAR WOULD NOT START ,DUE TO THE BATTERY. CONCERNING THE FUEL SYSTEM I WAS AT A SIGNAL HAD MY FOOT ON THE BREAK AND THE CAR EXCELLER RATED ON ITS OWN IF I WOULD NOT HAVE MY FOOT ON THE BREAK I FELT LIKE IT WOULD'VE HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME THE WHOLE CAR MOVED I HAD A PASSENGER WITH ME AND THEY IDENTIFY THE SAME THING I TALKED TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALER I TOLD THEM WHAT HAD HAPPENED AND THEY TOLD ME JUST DON'T PARK TOO CLOSE BEHIND A CAR THAT WAS THEIR RESPONSE TO ME.I WAS STATIONARY BEHIND A VEHICLE AT A SIGNAL WAITING FOR THE SIGNAL TO TURN GREEN SO I COULD GO THAT'S WHEN THIS HAPPEN ON A REGULAR STREET
MY DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT LED ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE IS NO LONGER WORKING. I DO NOT KNOW HOW LONG IT HAS BEEN OUT, BUT NOTICED IT TODAY.
I NEEDED TO CHANGE FUEL PUMP AND MY FUEL SYSTEM CLEANED BECAUSE MY CAR WAS STALLING AND NOT RESPONDING TO ACCELERATION ON THE ROAD BUT RESPOND WHEN I DIDN'T EVEN ACCELERATE WHICH WAS VERY DANGEROUS. I DID SEE HONDA RECALLED V6 MODELS BUT THEY SHOULD RECALL V4 MODELS TOO AS IT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ACCIDENTS.
VEHICLE HAS BEEN HAVING ISSUES WHEN ACCELERATING MAKING CAR RIDE VERY UNCOMFORTABLE WHEN DRIVING. ACCELERATION BETWEEN 20-40 MPH ON STREET ROAD ALONG WITH ACCELERATION AT 40-60 MPH ON EXPRESS LANES
THE RUNNING LIGHT ON MY 2016 HAS BURNED OUT AND THIS IS A COVERED BENEFIT ON OTHER HONDA ACCORDS WITH THE SAME YEAR HOWEVER ISNY FOR MY VEHICLE . THIS IS A DISSERVICE TO YOU HONDA CUSTOMER WHEN A 3 YEAR OLD VEHICLE HAS A $1000 LIGHT BLOW OUT . PLEASE MAKE THIS RIGHT AND CALL ME AT [XXX]. REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6) *CC
HONDA ACCORD 2016 EPS SYSTEM LOCK POWER STERLING WHEEL DURING DRIVE. LUCKY, I CAN SLOW DOWN AND SHUT OFF THE ENGINE TO AVOID ACCIDENT. THIS VEHICLE JUST 34600 MILES AND DAY PURCHASE JUST EXPIRED 30 DAYS. HONDA SHOULD FIX THIS ISSUED MORE THAN WARRANTY AND AVOID PEOPLE IN DANGER WITH THIS TYPE ISSUED IN FUTURE.
WHEN I DRIVE MY CAR. IT SUDDENLY JUMPS. IT SEEMS LIKE ITS THE TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. IT HAPPENS AT LOW SPEED AS WELL AS HIGH SPEED. I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING POSSIBLE TO KEEP MY CAR MAINTAINED. ALSO ITS BATTERY IS DYING AFTER HAVING IT FOR 3 YEARS. I HAVE TO JUMP THE CAR AT RANDOM TIMES BECAUSE THE CAR WOULD NOT START.
CAR WILL NOT START AFTER SITTING IN THE PARKING LOT FOR 10 MINS WHEN NOTHING TURNED ON. THIS IS THE 2ND TIME IN 6 MONTHS. THE FIRST INCIDENT WAS IN DECEMBER 2017 IN BAY AREA CA, AND NOW IN PLEASANTON CA WITH TEMP ABOUT 60 DEGREES OUTSIDER.
THE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT BURNED OUT ON THE DRIVER SIDE...
DRIVER SIDE DOOR HAS RATTLING NOISE WHEN DRIVING OVER 70 MPH AND PASSENGER SIDE DOOR HAS RATTLING NOISE WHEN GOING OVER SMALL BUMPS AND DIPS IN ROAD GOING AT LEAST 25. IT MAY BE THE WINDOWS WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHER SPEEDS.
Air coming through vents is very low even if set a max air flow. I have a 2016 Honda Accord with 40,000 miles. For some time we noticed that air conditioner does not flow much air. It seems that ac blower is just too weak. My old 2003 Corolla has much more ac blower power. Something is wrong. I change the AC filter as needed and with frequency. Air is cold just not enough air coming through vents.
I LEASED A NEW 2016 ACCORD SPORT IN MARCH 2016. I JUST RECENTLY PURCHASED IT OUT OF THE 3 YEAR LEASE. IN THE 2ND YEAR OF LEASE (12/08/2017) I WAS AT THE GAS STATION WITH THE CAR SHUT OFF, TRIED TO START IT AND IT WOULDN'T START. BATTERY WASN'T WORKING. (ORIGINAL HONDA BATTERY STILL IN IT). THE CAR WAS AT 80K MILES. TRIED TO JUMP START AND IT WOULDN'T START. CALLED TO HAVE IT TOWED HOME, TOW DRIVER TESTED THE BATTERY AND JUMPED IT AND IT STARTED BUT WAS HAVING ISSUES SO HE SAID TO GET IT HOME. I REPLACED THE BATTERY IMMEDIATELY THAT NIGHT. (NEW STORE BOUGHT BATTERY) NO ISSUES UNTIL NOW (APRIL 2019). WAS DRIVING LAST NIGHT IN THE RAIN AND ALL 4 OF MY DASH LIGHTS CAME ON AT THE SAME TIME (ANTI-LOCK BREAK-ABS, TIRE PRESSURE-TPMS, TRACTION CONTROL, ELECTRIC POWER STEERING-EPS). I HAVE ASSOCIATED THIS ISSUE WITH SEVERAL DEALERS AND IT HAS BEEN LINKED TO THE BATTERY CAUSING THESE SENSORS TO TRIP AS THEY ARE NOT GETTING ENOUGH POWER. HUNDREDS OF COMPLAINTS FOR THIS SAME ISSUE! ONCE THE BATTERY IS REPLACED, THE PROBLEM GOES AWAY. I HAVE OWNED THIS CAR NOW FOR 3 YEARS EXACTLY AND THIS WILL BE THE 3RD BATTERY I HAVE HAD TO PUT IN THIS CAR, BUT THIS VIN IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE BATTERY RECALL? THE BATTERY RECALL (17V418000) IS FOR WATER GETTING INTO THE BATTERY CASE AND CAUSING SHORTS AND POSSIBILITIES FOR ELECTRICAL FIRES. SOMETHING ON THIS VIN MODEL IS HAVING SEVERE BATTERY ISSUES, POSSIBLY RELATED TO THE WATER WITH LAST NIGHTS INCIDENT, BUT 3 BATTERIES IN 3 YEARS IS UNACCEPTABLE. THIS IS A $27,000 VEHICLE. ALL BATTERY ISSUES NEED TO BE REVIEWED FOR RECALL ISSUES.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 HONDA ACCORD. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY FAILED. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V418000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,639. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.
GOT HIT ON FRONT DRIVER SIDE IN A CRASH AND PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG WENT OFF, NOT THE DRIVER SIDE.
PREMATURE FAILURE OF DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRLS) AT 46,000 MILES AND 3.5-YEARS OF SERVICE.
DRIVE SIDE HEAD LIGHT - RUNNING LIGHT IS OUT. LED DRL BURNOUT ISSUE
I DRIVE A 2016 HONDA ACCORD EX-L V6 WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION. THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL IS FAILED, AND IS CAUSING A COUPLE OF NOISES. THERE IS A CHATTERING NOISE DURING CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT INTO FIRST GEAR FROM A STOP TO A ROLL. THIS IS DUE TO THE EXCESS RADIAL PLAY IN THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL'S ARC DAMPER SPRING MECHANISM. AFTER THOROUGH RESEARCH, IT WAS FOUND THAT THE SERVICE LIFE OF DUAL MASS FLYWHEELS, SPECIFICALLY THE ARC DAMPER SPRING MECHANISM, IS RATHER SHORT DUE TO THE DEFECTIVE NATURE OF THE DESIGN. THE CAR I DRIVE STARTED EXPERIENCING NOTICEABLE FAILURE WITH ONLY ABOUT 17,000 MILES ON THE ODOMETER. I AM AN EXCELLENT DRIVER, WITH YEARS OF MANUAL TRANSMISSION EXPERIENCE AND KNOWLEDGE. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO MANY CERTIFIED HONDA DEALERSHIPS ON LONG ISLAND, AND THEY ALL HEARD THE NOISES THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL WAS MAKING. HOWEVER, ALL CERTIFIED HONDA MECHANICS, DESPITE HAVING TEST DRIVEN THE VEHICLE, FAILED TO EVEN DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE AS ANY PROBLEM. OTHER MECHANICS WHO ARE NOT HONDA CERTIFIED AGREED WITH THE FACT THAT THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL HAS FAILED. DURING ALL PHASES OF DRIVING, THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL RATTLES REGARDLESS OF GEAR SELECTED (INCLUDING NEUTRAL) AND CLUTCH POSITION. EVER SINCE THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL FAILED (17,000 MILES), ESPECIALLY WHEN IT IS REASONABLY WARM OUT (APPROX. 70 DEGREES F), RATTLING PERSISTS, AND THE CHATTERING I MENTIONED BEFORE PERSISTS. THE DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL CHATTERS EXCESSIVELY, AND IS ACCOMPANIED BY A VERY DELAYED ENGAGEMENT TIME FROM STOP TO A ROLL INTO FIRST GEAR. THE SYMPTOMS OF DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL FAILURE AND CLUTCH FAILURE MAY APPEAR SIMILAR, BUT THE WAYS OF DIAGNOSING THE FAILURES ARE DIFFERENT; THE CLUTCH SHOWS NO SIGNS OF FAILURE. I AM WORRIED THAT BECAUSE OF THE FAILURE, MY VEHICLE WONT BE ABLE TO ACCELERATE FROM A STOP QUICK ENOUGH IN THE EVENT OF AN EMERGENCY. ATTACHED IS A DOCUMENT I FORWARDED TO HONDA, WHO IGNORED IT.
3 YEARS OLF CAR WITH 48,000 MILES BOTH FRONT DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS ARE BURNT OUT. COST TO REAPIR IS ALMOST $1,000. NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ONLINE, AND SHOULD BE A RECALL. THEY RECALL FOR SAFETY ITEMS AND THESE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS ARE THERE FOR SAFETY.
AT 50,000 MILES MY LED LIGHT BURNT OUT
BOTH OF MY DRL'S ARE OUT ON MY 2016 HONDA ACCORD SPORT. IT HAS A LITTLE OVER 32,000 MILES ON IT. I WILL BE GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP TOMORROW TO SPEAK ABOUT THIS ISSUE. IF THEY TELL ME IT IS NOT COVERED I WILL NEVER BE BUYING ANOTHER HONDA. I PURCHASED THE CAR WITH 28000 MILES ON IT 3 MONTHS AGO. THE DRL'S WENT OUT LAST WEEK. NO EXTREME WEATHER. NO CRASHES. THIS IS AN EXTREMELY COMMON PROBLEM. I HAVE ONLY SEEN ROUGHLY A DOZEN ACCORDS AROUND MY CITY WITH FULLY WORKING DRL'S. IT IS A VERY BAD PROBLEM
THERE IS TIMES WHEN I TRY TO TURN ON THE VEHICLE AND IT MAKES A GRINDING NOISE AND THE VEHICLE DOESN'T START.
I HAVE A 2016 HONDA ACCORD AND THE DRL ON THE PASSENGER SIDE HAVE BURNED OUT. I HAVE BEEN DOING RESEARCH ONLINE AND THIS APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL AND THE 2017. MY CAR IS APPROXIMATELY 2 YEARS OLD AND SHOULD NOT HAVE THIS ISSUE. TO MAKE MATTERS WORST, THE ONLY WAY TO FIX IT IS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT AT A COST OF APPROXIMATELY 600.
BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED 3 TIMES AND CONSTANTLY DRAINS DESPITE TURNING OFF AUTOMATIC LIGHTS AND AIR CONDITIONING TO UTILIZE LESS BATTERY POWER. TURNING OVER WILL CHOKE AT TIMES AND START BUT ABOUT EVERY TIME THAT I TAKE MY CAR IN FOR AN OIL CHANGE THE BATTERY POWER TESTS LOW.
BOTH REAR DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS HAVE FAILED WITHIN FOR 20K MILES OF OWNERSHIP. DEALERSHIP HAS REPLACED BOTH ACTUATORS UNDER WARRANTY.
FRONT HEADLIGHT UNITS HAD THE LED STRIP AT THE BOTTOM AND CONTINUING UP THE SIDE GO OUT. AS THE HEADLIGHT IS ONE COMPLETE UNIT THE LED PORTION CAN NOT BE REPLACED WITHOUT A COMPLETE CHANGE OUT OF THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT UNIT. AN INTERNET SEARCH OF THE PROBLEM SHOWS THAT THE PROBLEM IS VERY COMMON. MADE A CALL TO HONDA CORPORATE CUSTOMER SERVICE GARNERED ME NO HELP. MY HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT SHORTLY AFTER THE WARRANTY PERIOD. COST TO REPLACE EXCEEDS $1,500
THE CAR VIBRATION INCREASES WHENEVER THE CAR IS IN DRIVE AND IDLING AT A STOP LIGHT, STOP SIGN, PARKING LOT, ETC. DURING COLD WEATHER TEMPERATURES THE VIBRATION IS EXCESSIVE AND CAN MAKE A RATTLING NOISE COME FROM THE ENGINE. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A FEW MONTHS NOW CONTINUOUSLY. HONDA DEALERSHIPS REFUSES TO CONSIDER IT AS AN ISSUE.
THE DRIVER SIDE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT HAS FAILED. IT IS AN LED STRIP THAT IS LOCATED BELOW THE HEADLAMPS. IT HAS COMPLETELY BURNED OUT IN NO LONGER FUNCTIONS.
THE DRL (DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP) INSIDE THE DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY HAS BURNED OUT. MY HONDA DEALERSHIP HAS ADMITTED THAT THIS IS BECOMING A COMMON FAILURE WITH 2016/17 ACCORDS. IF IT HAPPENS AFTER THE WARRANTY ENDS, IT IS A VERY COSTLY REPLACEMENT ANYWHERE FROM $500. TO $1,000. THE PASSENGER SIDE DRL IN THAT HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY AS I AM TOLD IN THESE ACCORDS IS ALSO BURNING OUT IN TIME AFTER THE DRIVERS SIDE DOES, THEREFORE INCURRING ANOTHER HUGE EXPENSE. THESE DRL LIGHTS ARE LED AND SUPPOSED TO LAST FOR SEVERAL YEARS. AN ELECTRICAL FAULT CONTROLLING THESE LAMPS OR SOME KIND OF BAD ENGINEERING DESIGN ARE CAUSING THE FAILURE OF THE DRLS. THESE AUTOMOBILES WERE BUILT WITH THIS LIGHTING SYSTEM TO AID IN SAFETY ON OUR DANGEROUS ROADS AND OWNERS OF THESE AUTOS EXPECT THEM TO STAY WORKING FOR MORE THAN A YEAR, TWO OR THREE WHEN PURCHASING A NEW CAR. THESE LIGHTS JUST BURN OUT WHEN DRIVING AT SOME POINT.
CAR SHOOK EVERY LIGHT CAME ON LOST BRAKES AND BURST INTO FLAMES. I USED EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP VEHICLE. I WAS ON RAMP TO EXPRESSEAYLIE ON LONG ISLAND. THANKFULLY WAS RIGHT NEAR SHOULDER AND NOT GOING TO FAST OTHER WISE I WOULDN'T HAVE BEEN ABLE TO CONTROL CAR AND MAY HAVE HIT ANOTHER CAR TREE OR WALL. CAR WAS MELTED AND FIRE DEPT CAME AND PUT IT OUT.
MY 2016 HONDA ACCORD SEDAN SPORT DRIVING RUNNING LIGHT (DRL) HAS BURNED OUT. I HAVE 40,000 MILES AND HIONDA IS TELLING ME TH IS THAT IT CCANOT BE REPLACED AND ASK FOR NE TO PAY $1,200 TO REPLACE THIS PROBLEM.
RE: NHTSA RECALL ID 19V060; THIS RECALL APPEARS TO ONLY IMPACT V6 HONDA ACCORDS, HOWEVER, I FEEL IT SHOULD BE EXPANDED TO FOUR-CYLINDER AS WELL. I HAVE NOTICED MY CAR ALMOST STALL-OUT ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS SINCE OWNERSHIP. MY CAR HAS ABOUT 57K MILES ON IT, IT HAD 6K WHEN I PURCHASED IT CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED. TYPICALLY, THIS HAPPENS WHEN I'M SITTING IN A PARKED POSITION IN IDLE. BUT, IT HAS ALSO OCCURRED WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN GEAR, START DRIVING AT A LOW-SPEED (DOWN OUR ALLEY), AND I FEEL GAPS IN THE POWER WHEN I PUSH THE GAS. IT WILL ACCELERATE AT A CERTAIN RATE, THEN STOP, EVEN THOUGH I'VE NOT LIFTED MY FOOT OFF THE ACCELERATOR. I WAS UNSURE WHAT THIS WAS RELATED TO (SPARK PLUGS), BUT THIS RECALL HAS MADE ME THINK IT'S ALSO RELATED TO THE FUEL SYSTEM. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON AT LEAST FOUR SEPARATE OCCASIONS, BUT ONLY RELATIVELY RECENTLY (WITHIN THE PAST 6 MONTHS OR SO).
I WAS BACKING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY WHEN THE CAR SEEMED TO SPEED UP EVEN THOUGH I WAS NOT PRESSING THE GAS. I STRUCK MY NEIGHBORS WALL ACROSS THE STREET, BUT NOT VERY HARD. AT THAT POINT I HEARD A ROAR. I DIDN'T UNDERSTAND WHAT IT WAS AT THE TIME, BUT NOW I RECOGNIZE IT AS THE SOUND A CAR MAKE IF YOUR PRESSING THE GAS WITH THE CAR IN PARK OR NEUTRAL. I DECIDED TO PULL BACK INTO MY DRIVEWAY TO ASSESSS THE DAMAGE TO MY CAR. WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN DRIVE IT ROARED FORWARD. I PRESSED THE BRAKE AS HARD AS I COULD BUT THE CAR COULD NOT BE STOPPED IT CRASHED INTO THE BRICK WALL OF MY GARAGE. THE AIRBAG DEPLOYED AND I SUFFERED CUTS AND BRUISES. MY CAR WAS TOTALED.
MY DRL (DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS) WENT OUT IN BOTH OF MY HEADLIGHT HOUSINGS. AND TO FIX THESE TWO LIGHTS BOTH OF THE HOUSINGS WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED. BOTH OF THE LIGHTS WENT OUT RIGHT AFTER THE 35,000 WARRANTY RAN OUT.
I HAVE NOTICED THE BURNT OUT DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT LED, BUT ONLY WHEN IT'S PAST WARRANTY. HOWEVER, IT MAY HAVE HAPPENED EARLIER AS WELL. TYPICALLY LEDS ARE MORE RELIABLE THAN HALOGEN OR INCANDESCENT WITH A LIFETIME OF ABOUT 30,000 HOURS. THE CAR IS USED NO MORE THAN 2 HOURS A DAY, MEANING IT WENT OUT IN NO MORE THAN 2,000 HOURS. HOWEVER, DUE TO DESIGN ISSUE, THIS LIGHT ALONE CANNOT BE REPLACED - THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY MUST BE REPLACED. WHILE HONDA DEALER ACKNOWLEDGED THAT THIS WAS A WIDESPREAD PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE, THEY REFUSED TO REPLACE IT. AND, PER MY RESEARCH, IT COSTS AT LEAST $600 TO REPLACE ONE ASSEMBLY. ACCORDINGLY TO CARCOMPLAINTS.COM, THIS IS THE BIGGEST PROBLEM WITH 2016 ACCORDS.
CELL PHONE NO LONGER WORKS CONNECTED TO THE CONTROL PANEL WHEN VEHICLE IS IN MOTION OR STATIONARY. WHEN CALLS ARE COMING IN AND ANSWERED, IT DISCONNECTS.
DRIVERS SIDE DRL WENT OUT ON THE SIDE CLOSER TO THE HONDA LOGO.
I MADE A COMPLAINT BEFORE NOT EXACTLY SURE OF THE DATE BUT IT WAS IN 2016. MY COMPLAINT WAS MY CAR ALMOST STALLS OUT. WHEN I AM STOPPED AND START UP AGAIN OR MAKE A TURN THE CAR FEELS LIKE IT IS GOING TO STALL AND I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE WHO TOLD ME THAT. MY BROTHER AND SISTER-IN-LAW DROVE MY CAR AND IT HAPPEN TO THEM. I'VE ALMOST GOTTEN HIT IN THE REAR END A FEW TIMES BECAUSE MY CAR DOESN'T PICK UP. THE LAST TIME A REP FROM HONDA TOLD ME TO TAKE THE CAR INTO THE HONDA DEALER TO CHECK OUT THE ENGINE BUT THE MECHANIC HE ONLY DROVE THE CAR AROUND THE LOT AND SAID EVERYTHING WAS OK BUT IT DOESN'T HAPPEN EVERY TIME AND I TOLD HIM THAT. I'M CONCERNED THAT I WILL GET EVENTUALLY GET REAR ENDED AND HURT. MOST RECENT IT HAPPENED AGAIN SO THAT'S WHY I'M COMPLAINING. SO, PLEASE TELL ME WHAT TO DO. THANK YOU
MY 2016 HONDA ACCORD COUPE DRL COMES OUT. I HAVE BOUGHT TWO PAIRS FROM HONDA AND THEY BOTH WENT OUT. OVER 800 PER REPAIR. I'VE BEEN READING ONLINE BUT IT'S NOT JUST HAPPENING TO ME.
BOTH THE DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER'S SIDE LED DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRL) NO LONGER ILLUMINATE. THE PROBLEM CAN ONLY BE RESOLVED BY REPLACING THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY WHICH WILL RUN AROUND OVER $2,000.00 ACCORDING TO THE HONDA DEALERSHIP. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT MUST BE INVESTIGATED TO DETERMINE THE MANUFACTURING DEFECTS OF THIS PARTICULAR HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY.
I HAVE A TOURING TRIM OF THE HONDA ACCORD 2016, MEANING IT HAS A V6 ENGINE. AT AROUND 38,000 MILES, THE STARTER STARTED ACTING UP. WHEN I TRY TO START IT, IT MAKES A GRINDING NOISE AND WON'T START. I LIVED WITH IT FOR A LITTLE BIT BECAUSE I'M USUALLY ABLE TO GET IT TO START AFTER A COUPLE OF ATTEMPTS. I BOUGHT A BRAND NEW STARTER FROM HONDA, INSTALLED IT, AND THE CAR WORKED PERFECTLY AGAIN. IT STARTED EVERY TIME. 1 WEEK LATER AND THE ISSUE STARTED HAPPENING AGAIN. IT DOESN'T HAPPEN AS OFTEN, BUT IT SHOULDN'T BE HAPPENING AT ALL. IT'S A BRAND NEW STARTER AND I'M HAVING THE SAME EXACT ISSUE AS BEFORE. IT HAPPENS LIKE ONCE A DAY NOW. THE OLD STARTER WAS GIVING ME ISSUES EVERY OTHER TIME I TRIED TO START THE CAR. WON'T BE LONG BEFORE THE SAME HAPPENS WITH THIS BRAND NEW ONE.
RADIO DISPLAY WENT BLANK AFTER 2.5 YEARS UNABLE TO SEE RADIO CLOCK A D BACK UP CAMERA OR PHONE INFORMATION WHEN BLUETOOTH IS CONNECTED SYSTEM STOPPED WORKING WHEN I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY IN DECEMBER. OCCASIONALLY WHEN DRIVING I SEE GREEN BLUE RED LINES GO ACROSS THE DISPLAY SCREEN. IS THERE A RECALL?
DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (LED STRIP) ARE BURNED-OUT IN SEGMENTS. DRL'S ARE LISTED BY THE MANUFACTURER AS A SAFETY ITEM AND HONDA WILL NOT REPLACE UNLESS VEHICLE IS UNDER WARRANTY. TYPICAL OUT OF POCKET EXPENSE RUNS FROM $400-$700 PER UNIT AS THEY ARE INCORPORATED IN EACH HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY. COST IS UNREALISTIC FOR LIGHTING.
I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY WITHIN THE FIRST YEAR OF ME OWNING THE VEHICLE. ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO I STARTED HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WHERE MY BATTERY WAS DYING. IN ADDITION TO THAT MY.CAR STARTED MAKING A FUNNY NOISE. TURNS OUT I NEEDED MY TENSIONER/ALTERNATOR PULLEY REPLACED AND THAT IS WHEN THEY NOTICED THAT THE ALTERNATOR WAS NOT CHARGING CORRECTLY. IT WAS MEASURING AT 11 VOLTS INSTEAD OF THE NORMAL 14V. I HAD TO HAVE IT REPLACED ALONG WITH MY BELT TENSIONER. I SPENT 600 AND THEN I LEARNED THAT THERE WAS A RECALL ON HONDAS FOR THE SAME ISSUE BUT MY CAR WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE LIST. I DON'T SEE WHY NOT WHEN IT WAS ALMOST THE IDENTICAL ISSUE. THIS IS THE FIRST CAR I HAVE EVER BOUGHT AND I BOUGHT A HONDA BECAUSE OF ITS REPUTATION FOR DEPENDABILITY. THE ALTERNATOR SHOULD NOT HAVE GIVEN OUT WITHIN THE FIRST THREE YEARS OF OWNING THE VEHICLE.
I FOUND OUT THAT THE DRIVER'S SIDE DAY LIGHT LED STRIP WENT OUT TODAY. GIVEN THAT I RARELY CHECK THE HEAD LIGHT CONDITION , IT SHOULD HAVE GONE OUT LONG TIME AGO. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND SEEMS LIKE 2016 ACCORD MODEL HAVE SAME PROBLEM. I WATCHED SO MANY YOU TUBE VIDEOS COMPLAINING THE SAME ISSUE.