2015 Honda CR-V Complaint Log

The contact owns a 2015 Honda CR-V. The contact stated while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle would not start. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was towed to a local dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 35,000.

Car won’t start just clicks. Read that this could be related to an engine recall that I had fixed by Honda.

*Draining new battery *Only 22,000 miles on this vehicle and have replaced Alternator, Fuses, Starter, 3 Batteries in 5 years of having this vehicle. Now its parked again cause electrical is making battery dead. *Manufacturer does not know what it can be. *No check engine code pops up. Please check for recall on my 2015 Honda CR-V. I have read there is a Lawsuit on this issue. Why isn't there a recall so my dealership can fix or replace. Wasting lots of money on this issue they can not find.

Three times the vehicle would not start while at Walmart parking lot since over February 2020. I push the button to start and it wont start. The air condition/heater does not work since winter of 2021/2022. The electrical system has gone haywire twice. The lights on dashboard flash and the numbers roll all over since 2021. The door locks are not wanting to lock now for the past 12 months. while I was inside the car the door would not unlock The engine seems to stall for the past 8 months. It feels like it is not getting gas. I have taken the vehicle to the dealer three times for the air with no positive results yet.

In June 2016, my Honda CR-V 2015 broke down, lost all power, and stopped working in the middle of the road. The vehicle was towed to a Honda Dealership - Diamond Bar, CA. The Honda Mechanic diagnosed a P2138, did not solve the problem, and sent me home. The vehicle broke down once again, only for them to claim again that they could not recreate the problem. The vehicle had 12,000 miles on it at this time. I filed a complained with the NHTSA at this time. In September 2017, my Honda CR-V broke down again, lost all power, and stopped working in the middle of the road. The vehicle was towed to a Honda Dealership - Alhambra, CA. The Honda Mechanic diagnosed a P2647 and fixed the issue. The vehicle had 35,000 miles on it at this time. Now, in August 2021, my Honda CR-V broke down again, lost all power, and stopped working in the middle of the road. The vehicle was driven to a local mechanic, where he diagnosed the car to have 4 OBII codes and recommended taking it to a Honda. I took it to a Honda Dealership - Buena Park, CA. The Honda Mechanic diagnosed a P2128 only, said they don't take recommendations from other mechanics, and replaced in the APP Sensor and gas pedal. The vehicle had 83,000 miles on it at this time. Only 1 week later, My Honda CR-V broke down again, lost all power, and stopped working in the middle of the road. My ODII code diagnosed the issue as a P2138 - the exact same code diagnosed and not fixed by Honda - Diamond Bar, CA back in 2016. When I called Honda Buena Park about the car breaking down again, they stated they will charge me another $150 diagnosis fee to look at it again. The above codes have the same issues over and over again, and I believe this vehicle should have a recall with no individual/franchise dealership willing to bite the bullet, looking to yank customer's chains to make the most amount of money for simple fixes. Thank you

The engine wiring harness melted and frayed. Two different garages (including Honda dealer) could not determine cause. As part of the fact-finding, multiple fuses blew every time they were replaced - at minimum in fuse box under hood harness and also under dash. For months the car could be sluggish when first leaving garage (like something wasn't catching) but I don't think that was related (although that problem has disappeared it seems.) I drove the car one day. Parked it. Got in it the next day and it was dead. Battery (3 yrs old) was at 50%. Starter was fine. Assumed it was starter button on dash. When car got to Honda, battery was dead. First garage found blown fuses, replaced, blew/melted. Did get it to start after many trials, but then brake lights wouldn't turn off. Then next morning dead again. That's when discovered harness. Never started again (until harness replaced at dealer06.)

Purchased a 2015 CRV EX in 2018. Recently I've started having an issue where on the first or second attempts to start the car with the push button start, the car doesn't crank but clicks and only goes to Accessory mode. Generally the car will finally start after pushing the button 3-6 times. There have been situations where I was almost stranded in inclement weather conditions and unsafe surroundings. There is an existing class action law suit against Honda for CRV's 2017-2019 for: Parasitic Draw Defect. CRV's built PRIOR to 2017 were not recognized and recalled. According to this Honda class action lawsuit, the problem with the starter motor may be a lack of adequate clearance between the two gears where the starter motor connects to the engine. This lack of clearance can cause the starter motor to wear prematurely, preventing the vehicle from starting. I have changed the battery and the issue still persists. I have called my local Honda dealer and asked them to honor the recall but they stated that the 2015 CRV is not included in the recall even though the issues are identical to the those reported with the 2017-2019 CRV's. Other CRV owners have been experiencing the same issues: 2015 Intermittent Starting Issue forum - https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/2015-intermittent-starting-issue.202844/ 2015 CR-V Starting Issue forum - https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/2015-cr-v-starting-issue.212523/

The contact owns a 2015 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle, the vehicle would randomly go into "Accessory Mode". During the failure, the vehicle could not be turned off or shifted into gear. The gear shifter was not functional, and the battery had to be disconnected to turn the vehicle off. The vehicle was towed to the local dealer on several occasions and the computer, battery, remote starter, and starter were replaced; however, the failures persisted. The cause of the failure was not yet determined, and the vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 50,000.

Aug 1, 2021: On rural highway at approx 50-55 mph, all dashboard warning lights came on as engine power was cut drasticly, (over 50%). Minimal traffic, so was able to continue cautiously at very low speed with warning flashers to nearby service station, called local Honda dealer who towed in the CRV. Dealer said the high pressure fuel pump had failed, which they replaced at my cost. No mention by the Honda dealer of any recall campaign, or report to Honda USA or NHTSA

SUV stalls when starting after overnight or day stay and driving slowly in reverse for about 3 yards. The engine can be restarted with starter button. This is dangerous, because I am parking for work in an underground garage with minimal lighting and other drivers do not expect a vehicle stalled half way pulling out from a parking space.

The contact owns a 2015 Honda CR-V. The contact stated while driving 35 mph, the vehicle lost motive power but did not shut-off. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact stated that the accelerator pedal and the brake pedal were depressed but failed to respond. The contact veered to the side of the road where she attempted to drive the vehicle again but was unsuccessful. The vehicle was towed to the dealer who diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 123,000.

I have had this car for 3 years and have needed to replace the alternator twice. This is a safety concern, as I am ansi for parent and this could leave anyone stranded with the inability to start the vehicle under any conditions. This is a know problem with this specific year CRV, and is frequently discussed in the CRV community as well as at the dealership, by repair staff. There should be a required recall to fix whatever is causing alternators needing to be replaced every 18 months.

So I went to my Honda dealership (Doylestown, PA) today with issues of my oil lamp going on (for a few days). The oil was low (it seemed to burn real quick) and adding additional oil was the item that was performed on my vehicle. However the service representative told me to come back after I have driven for 1000 additional miles for them to check and see if the issue is the Piston Rings. Which he stated may run at least $3000. So I did some research and noticed that a recall (recall number KF6) was created for engines issues for Honda CRV 2015 (mgr Feb. 8 2015 - July 28, 2016). My SUV was mgr on April 2015. I wanted to see if it's possible that there is an issue with my vehicle and this recall.

I was driving home and my car went into limp mode in the middle of the freeway. Not sure why my car downshifted and wouldn’t accelerate over 20mph or over 2500rpm. I thought my transmission went out, I was lucky to find a pull off, I shut my car off and then back on to see if I could get to an off ramp and the problem persisted. I had my vehicle towed to my mechanic, the problem was diagnosed and my mechanic said specifically that he has only seen this problem with cars that had faulty fuel pumps that were recalled, my year was not part of the recall, but my make and model was, but only different years. He advised me to report it because of how specific the problem was to the recall of newer models.

June 2,2021 was rear ended by full speed car (30-40mph) that put me into an on coming car at a traffic light. Crunched my Honda 2015 CRV where I couldn't even open the front doors and my head hit the steering wheel, my arms and my spine cracked. Thankfully did not brake anything however still in pain and need continuing chiropractic care. If the Honda I was driving didn't have the function of in brake assist the turning vehicle from the on coming street wouldn't have survived. There were no warnings or failure lights, messages or notices from the dealership where we regularly took for service. Honda CRV 2015 totaled ownership no longer in my name

Heated seats are ALWAYS ON

I AM ON MY THIRD CAR BATTERY FOR A CAR THAT IS ONLY A LITTLE OVER FIVE YEARS OLD. I AM REPLACING THE BATTERIES EVERY 2-3 YEARS WHICH SEEMS A BIT RIDICULOUS. SO FAR, I AM OUT $330. I HAVE TRIED BOTH OEM AND NON-OEM BATTERIES, AND NOTHING SEEMS TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE. THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED TO ME, I WAS STRANDED IN A STORE PARKING LOT. A FAMILY MEMBER CAME AND JUMP STARTED MY CAR, THEN FOLLOWED BEHIND ME AS I DROVE TO THE DEALER TO GET THE BATTERY CHECKED AND THEN LATER TO AN AUTO STORE WHERE I REPLACED THE BATTERY. THE GUY THAT REPLACED MY BATTERY SAID HE HAS THE SAME ISSUE WITH HIS CRV. THE SECOND TIME (ABOUT 2 YEARS LATER AFTER THE FIRST INCIDENT), WHEN I WENT TO START MY CAR AFTER DRIVING TO A STORE, THE CAR HAD TROUBLE STARTING AND WHEN IT FINALLY TURNED OVER, MY DASHBOARD WAS LIT UP LIKE A CHRISTMAS TREE. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, AWD, VSA, LOW TIRE PRESSURE, AND ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING LIGHTS ALL CAME ON. AFTER GOOGLING THE ISSUE, AND SEEING THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM FOR HONDA CRVS, I KNEW THAT IT WAS LIKELY THE BATTERY. THE PLACE I WENT TO CHECKED THE BATTERY AND SURE ENOUGH, IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AGAIN. I TRIED CALLING HONDA TO ASK ABOUT IT, BUT THEY DENIED THAT IT WAS EVEN AN ISSUE. HOWEVER, A QUICK GOOGLE SEARCH REVEALED THAT A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT WAS RECENTLY FILED FOR 2017-2019 HONDA CRVS. ALTHOUGH THE ISSUE LIKELY GOES BACK MUCH FURTHER, THE STATUTE OF LIMITATIONS PREVENTED EARLIER MODELS FROM BEING INCLUDED. THIS IS LIKELY A HONDA ISSUE, WHERE SOMETHING WAS NOT PROPERLY DESIGNED. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE, BECAUSE WITHOUT A PROPERLY FUNCTIONING BATTERY, IMPORTANT SAFETY FEATURES MIGHT FAIL. THE DRIVER IS ALSO AT RISK OF GETTING STRANDED SOMEWHERE. MY CAR HAS HAD INTERMITTENT RANDOM TROUBLE STARTING THE WHOLE TIME I'VE HAD IT. (THERE'S NO PATTERN TO IT).

LOUD RATTLING NOISES WITH ASSOCIATED STRONG UNSETTLING VIBRATIONS COME INTO THE CABIN. THESE VIBRATIONS AND RATTLING NOISES HAVE BEEN VERY DISTRACTING. THE RATTLING NOISES BEGIN AT A LOW VOLUME AND BECOME QUITE LOUD. THE ASSOCIATED VIBRATIONS MAKE ME FEEL VERY UNCOMFORTABLE. THESE DISTRACTIONS CERTAINLY DISTRACT ME FROM DRIVING SAFELY AND ARE A SAFETY HAZARD.

THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IN MY 2015 HONDA CR-V AWD TOURING EDITION AUTOMATICALLY DOWNSHIFTS INTO A LOWER GEAR WHEN I START DRIVING DOWN A HILL. THIS CAUSES THE ENGINE TO REV HIGH AND WHINE LOUDLY UNTIL I REACH THE BOTTOM OF THE HILL WHEN IT FINALLY UPSHIFTS AND WORKS CORRECTLY. THE ENGINE IS WORKING TOO HARD TO MAINTAIN A SLOW SPEED DURING THE DESCENT. CAN THE TRANSMISSION BE ADJUSTED SO IT DOESN'T DOWNSHIFT AND HOLD THE VEHICLE BACK? OR IS THIS A DEFECT WITH THIS TRANSMISSION THAT WILL BE COVERED UNDER MY EXTENDED WARRANTY? IF SO, HOW CAN I GET A REPLACEMENT TRANSMISSION INSTALLED?

I TOOK MY CAR TO THE REPAIR SHOP BECAUSE MY CAR VIBRATES AND IDLES LOW TO WHERE IT FEELS LIKE IT IS GOING TO CUT OFF AT A STOP SIGN OR TRAFFIC LIGHT WHILE IN GEAR. THE SHOP CHANGED OUT THE VALVE GASKET AND DID AN OIL CHANGE PAID $260.00 THE CAR CONTINUED TO LOW IDLE AND VIBRATE AT THE STOP LIGHTS AND AND STOP SIGNS FELT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO STALL OUT. A WEEK LATER I TOOK MY CAR TO ANOTHER REPAIR SHOP AND THEY CHANGED OUT THE COILS AND SPARK PLUGS ALSO CLEANED THE BODY THROTTLE WHICH COST ME $820 LEFT THERE AND STILL MY CAR AT TRAFFIC LIGHTS AND STOP SIGNS WHILE IN GEAR VIBRATES AND IDLES LOW AND FEELS LIKE IT IS GOING TO STALL OUT. SO I TOOK IT BACK TO THAT SHOP 3 MORE TIMES FOR THE SAME ISSUE. I THEN TOOK THE CAR TO THE HONDA DEAL SHIP WHERE THEY DID A DIAGNOSTIC AND UPDATED THE COMPUTER SYSTEM AND STILL MY CAR VIBRATES AND IDLE LOWS AND FEELS LIKE IT IS GOING TO STALL OUT WHEN IN GEAR AT STOP LIGHTS AND STOP SIGNS. HONDA DID NOT FIX THE ISSUE.

I purchased this vehicle on 10-9-20, and in late January or early February, I pushed the start button, and it clicked. Then, on the second try, it started. It has gotten progressively worse. It took about 10 minutes of trying at one point yesterday before it started. When this happens, it can start on the first try the next several times before it starts having trouble again. A friend has a Honda Fit, and had the same issues. The dealer replaced the starter, and that worked for a bit, then she had the starter button replaced, and hasn't had issues since. Some time after this, she received a recall notice for the button, and is now waiting on reimbursement. I'm wondering if there will be a recall on the CR-V as well, but currently, I see that there are no unrepaired recalls on this vehicle.

According to the dealership looking at the vehicle, the air bag had a critical failure. The vehicle is only 5 years old. While the dealership stated this was the failure of a critical component and that the vehicle should not even be driven off the lot until the air bag was fully repaired, American Honda is stating it was simply an issue with the indicator light and that the air bag was fully functional. Either the local Honda dealer or American Honda is not being honest about what happened here, but if the air bags on 5 year old Honda vehicles are failing, this seems like something that likely should be more aggressively address, particularly in light of the many air bag failures that have been in the news over the past few years.

RATTLING SOUND COMING FROM THE ENGINE ON COLD CRANK. THIS STARTED SUBTLE BUT HAS PROGRESSIVELY GOTTEN WORSE.

MY BATTERY HAS HAD ISSUES FOR THE PAST 3 YEARS. I'VE PUT IN 3 BATTERIES IN THE PAST 3 YEARS AND I'M STILL EXPERIENCING ISSUES WHERE MY CAR WON'T START AFTER ONLY SITTING FOR A DAY. IT'S BEEN GETTING WORSE AS WELL. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY THOUGHT THEY FOUND THE PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN BUT IT'S SINCE GOTTEN WORSE. MY CAR HAS BEEN DEAD 3 TIMES AFTER ONLY SITTING FOR A DAY SINCE THE DEALERSHIP 'FOUND THE PROBLEM.'

THE STARTER ON THIS CAR COMPLETELY DIED AT ABOUT 56,000 MILES. I WAS IN A PARKING LOT AND THE CAR WOULDN'T START AT ALL. HONDA WAS RESPONSIVE WHEN I REACHED OUT TO ASK IF THE PART WAS UNDER WARRANTY AND THEY GAVE ME A $300 GIFT CARD FOR MY TROUBLE EVEN THOUGH THE WARRANTY EXPIRED. MY CONCERN IS THAT WHEN I SEARCHED THIS ISSUE ONLINE, A LOT OF OTHER PEOPLE WITH A 2015 CRV HAVE ISSUES WITH THE STARTER. I BELIEVE THE PART IS FAULTY, AND COULD BE A SAFETY RISK DEPENDING ON YOUR SITUATION. I WAS LUCKY TO GET STUCK ON MY OWN ON A WARM DAY IN A SAFE AREA. I HAD PURCHASED THE CAR CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED IN 2018 AND AM JUST SHOCKED THAT A PART WHICH IS SO VITAL TO THE BASIC FUNCTIONING OF THE CAR WOULD DIE WITHIN A FEW YEARS. I WANTED TO MAKE A REPORT SO THAT THIS IS ON RECORD AND WOULD HOPEFULLY LEAD TO A RECALL.

BRAKE PEDDLE DEPRESSES SO FAR THAT THE GAS PEDDLE CAN ALSO BE DEPRESSED WHILE PUSHING HARD ON THE BRAKE PEDDLE. MY WIFE DOES NOT USUALLY DRIVE THIS CAN. WHEN MY WIFE TRIED TO STOP IN THE DRIVEWAY WHEN BRINGING ME HOME FROM THE HOSPITAL SHE APPLIED THE THE BRAKES FAIRLY HARD AND WHEN THE CAR DID NOT STOP SHE PRESSED EVEN HARDER AND THE ENGINE SPEED UP RESULTING IN HER HITTING THE BACK OF HER CHEVY TRAIL BLAZER. IT IS MY OPINION THAT THE GEOMETRY OF THE BRAKE PEDDLE IS TOO CLOSE TO THE GAS PEDDLE, I HAVE NEVER DRIVEN A CAR WITH THE BRAKE PEDDLE BEING LOCATED TO CLOSE TO THE GAS PEDDLE..I WOULD ALSO PUT PART IS NOT MOST OF TH BLAIME ON THE FACT THAT THE BRAKE PEDDLE DEPRESSES TOO FAR AS IF THE SYSTEM WAS NOT BLED PROPERLY WHEN THE CAR WAS PRODUCED, AND THAT AIR WAS LEFT IN THE SYSTEM. THE CAR WAS LIKE THIS SINCE I PICKED IT UP AND THE BRAKE SYSTEM HAS NEVER BEEN WORKED ON BY ANYONE. I MENTIONED THIS TO THE DEALER, AND THEY COULD NOT BE BOTHERED TO BLEED THE BRAKES. TIHIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE IF SOMEONE WALKED BETWEEN THE TWO CARS SERIOUS INJURIES WOULD HAVE RESULTED.

DRIVING THE VEHICLE ON STRAIGHT STRETCH OF THE FREEWAY AT ABOUT 60MPH WHEN THE VEHICLE LOST POWER AND I COASTED TO THE SIDE OF FREEWAY. PLACED THE VEHICLE IN PARK AND THEN TURNED OFF VEHICLE. STARTED RIGHT UP BUT WHEN I SHIFTED THE ENGINE WOULD REV BUT NOT ENGAGE THE TRANSMISSION. NONE OF THE GEARS WOULD ENGAGE. VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO GOODYEAR TIRE AND AUTO IN DAVIS, CA AND ASSESSED FOR PROBLEM. THEY CONTACTED THE LOCAL HONDA DEALER AND IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE TRANSMISSION HAD FAILED AND WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF ABOUT $4600. THE VEHICLE HAD 87,000 MILES ON IT AND THE POWER TRAIN WARRANTY EXPIRED AT 80,000. WE CONTACTED HONDA BUT THEY SAID THE WARRANTY WAS EXPIRED AND THERE WAS NOTHING THEY WOULD DO. IT SEEMS THAT THIS YEAR HONDA HAD A SOFTWARE RECALL WHICH WAS COMPLETED ON THIS VEHICLE AFTER SEVERAL THOUSAND MILES OF USE IN 2016. THE SOFTWARE RECALL FIXED A PROBLEM THAT WOULD LEAD TO THIS EXACT FAILURE IN THE TRANSMISSION. IF DAMAGE HAD OCCURRED PRIOR TO THE SOFTWARE FIX THEN IT SEEMS LIKELY IT COULD SHORTEN THE EXPECTED LIFE OF THE TRANSMISSION AND CONTRIBUTED TO THIS TRANSMISSION FAILURE.

SHUTS OFF WHEN HALF WAY BACKED OUT OF THE GARAGE. SOMETIMES TAKES UP TO 14 TRIES TO START THE VEHICLE. GAUGES FUNCTION PROPERLY BUT DOESNT START. NO CLICKING JUST NOTHING. HAD IT TO SHOP AND TBEY COULDNT FIND ANYTHING WRONG. HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE END OF 2019.

JUST PURCHASED A 2015 CRV EX. EVERYTHING WAS COPASETIC UNTIL THE FIRST TIME IT WOULDN'T START UP. WHEN I PRESSED THE IGNITION I LET OFF THE BRAKE SEEMINGLY TOO EARLY, BECAUSE AS SOON AS I DID SO, IT PUTTED TO A HALT. TURNED IT OVER ON A JUMP AND CHALKED IT UP TO LEAVING A LIGHT ON OR OLD/WEEK BATTERY. THE SECOND AND THIRD TIME, ABOUT TWO AND THREE WEEKS LATER WAS REASON TO BE BECAUSE OF THE SAME CAUSE. THEN THE OCCASIONAL NOT STARTING TURNED INTO NEEDING A JUMP EVERY TIME I USED THE VEHICLE. I TOOK IT TO TWO AUTO SUPPLY STORES TO GET CODES ON THE ISSUE. ONR SHOP SAID BAD ALTERNATOR DIODE, THE OTHER A BAD ALTERNATOR AND BAD BATTERY. THEN THE BATTERY BLEW UP. I KILLED THE CAR WHEN I GOT HOME AND TRIED TO START IT UP AGAIN TO SEE IF THE BATTERY HELD A CHARGE. WHEN I TRIED TO TURN IT OVER AGAIN, I PUSHED THE BUTTON IMMEDIATELY AFTER PRESSING IT OFF. I IMAGINE I TRIED TO START IT TOO SOON TO WHEN I KILLED IT BECAUSE THERE WAS A DEEP BOOM, TO FIND OUT THE BATTERY BLEW UP. THERE WAS A LARGE HOLE IN THR SIDE OF IT. SO I PUT IN A NEW/USED/ LARGER BATTERY THAT WAS NEVER ABLE TO START THE CAR ITSELF SO I CONTINUED JUMPING IT EVERY TIME I USED IT SND NEVER TURNING IT OFF WHILE RUNNING ERRANDS. AT ONE POINT I HAD A FRIEND PUT HIS MULTIMETER TO USE TO TEST THE ALTERNSTOR. THOSE NUMBERS WHERE ALL OVER THE PLACE, JUMPING UP AND DOWN ON AN IDLE. AT THIS POINT IVE CHALKED IT UP TO A BAD DIODE, PARASITIC DRAIN, OR BAD WIRING. HELP! I CAN'T AFFORD TO FIX THIS THING.

WHEN I PULLED THE CAR OUT FROM GARAGE, THE CAR STOPPED. IT HAS HAPPENED TO ME TWICE IN TWO WEEKS.

CAR HAS HAD PROBLEMS STARTING INTERMITTENTLY WHEN PARKED FOR THE PAST 6 MONTHS. TAKES 5-10 TRIES TO START THE CAR BEFORE IT WILL START UP. HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY BUT THE PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS.

The car going uphill started stuttering then started losing speed. When hitting the gas its wouldn't do anything til car came to a complete stop, the gas wouldn't do anything. So we powered the car off and on again and then it worked. Until later that day while trying to accelerate the car again started stuttering losing speed and wouldn't respond to anything to make it go. Until we turned the car back off then on again. The car has also been thru 5 batteries in 5 years.

AFTER DRIVING MY CAR FOR A WHILE AND I'M WAITING AT A LIGHT MY CAR STARS TO VIBRATE AND SOMETIMES IT'S STRONGER THAN OTHERS.

SINCE I HAVE GOTTEN THE 2015 HONDA CR-V 5 YEARS AGO, I HAVE RANDOMLY HAD DIFFICULTY STARTING MY CAR. I HAVE BROUGHT IT TO NUMEROUS DEALERSHIPS TO ONLY BE TOLD THE BATTERY IS BAD. I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY SEVERAL TIMES BUT THE ISSUE STILL OCCURS. THE DEALERSHIP HAS OFFERED NO OTHER SUPPORT, BUT THEN TO REPLACE THE BATTERY. TODAY, 09/07/2020, I TRIED TO START MY CAR AND IT DID NOT START. IT JUST MADE THE COUGHING SOUND BUT WOULD NOT START. IT TOOK MULTIPLE TRIES UNTIL IT STARTS. I HOPE HONDA FIXES THIS ISSUE AS I NOTICE MANY OTHER DRIVERS ARE HAVING THIS ISSUE.

I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN TO HAVE OIL CHANGE, TIRE ROTATION AND ALIGNMENT. THE DEALERSHIP STATED THAT THE REAR CAMBER IS AT ITS UPPER LIMITS SO WE WOULD HAVE TO REPLACE BOTH REAR SPRINGS, UPPER LINKS, PERMANENTLY REMOVE THE HITCH AND REPLACE ALL 4 TIRES. TOTAL COST WOULD BE $2165. THEIR REASONING WAS THE WEIGHT OF THE HITCH CAUSED THE SPRINGS TO WEAKEN. THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED NEW WITH 32 MILES AND NOW HAS 84,000. ALL SERVICE HAS BEEN PREFORMED AT THE DEALERSHIP WHERE IT WAS PURCHASED AT FACTORY RECOMMENDED INTERVALS. THE HITCH WAS INSTALLED THE SAME MONTH THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED AND HAS NEVER BEEN USED TO HAUL ANYTHING OTHER THAN A HITCH HAULER WITH A 40 QUART COOLER FULL OF ICE AND DRINKS. I FIND IT HARD TO BELIEVE THIS CAUSED THE SPRINGS TO FAIL.

LOUD RATTLE NOISE ON COLD START AND LASTS FOR 1-2 SECONDS. MY LOCAL HONDA DEALERSHIP TOLD ME THAT IT'S THE VTC ACTUATOR AND CURRENTLY THERE'S NO FIX FOR IT. IF REPLACED, IT WILL EVENTUALLY COMES BACK AGAIN.

THE CAR HAS STARTER ISSUES, I'VE REPLACED BATTERY, KEY BATTERY AND HAD MECHANIC LOOK AT RELAYS, STARTER AND PUSH BUTTON STARTER, COULDN'T FIX IT. ALSO DURING RAIN, THE CAR HAS LEAK PROBLEM ON THE ROOF AREA WHERE THE INDOOR LIGHTS ARE LOCATED. I'VE ALSO NOTICED THE WIPER BLADES DON'T TOUCH THE WINDSHIELD. I HAVE TRIED DIFFERENT BRANDS AND STILL DON'T HAVE THE BLADES TOUCH THE WINDSHIELD. I DRIVE CAR TO WORK 3 DAYS A WEEK AND BEEN PATIENT ABOUT IT. I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE USED AND HAD ONLY 17000 MILES. BOUGHT GAP INSURANCE DUE TO IT BEING USED CAR. WHEN RAINING IT'S PARKED WHEN IT LEAKS DURING HEAVY RAINS. IT'S TAKES 5 TO 10 ATTEMPTS WHEN TRYING TO START. I BELIEVE THE CAR WAS INVOLVED IN ACCIDENT BUT NOT REPORTED. I PURCHASED IT IN 2018, IT HAS SOME BODY DAMAGE BUT DIDN'T QUESTION IT. HAD BAD TIRES AND GOT NEW ONES. LATELY I'VE NOTICE ELECTRICAL ISSUES WHEN ATTEMPTING TO START. LOOK AT ALL FUSES. STILL NO STARTER FIXED. IS THERE ANY WAY TO CHECK THESE ISSUES, EVEN HONDA COULDN'T SOLVE THE STARTER PROBLEMS.

VEHICLE STALLS WHILE REVERSING IN A PARKING LOT WHILE IN MOTION. I BELIEVE THIS TO BE RELATED TO HONDA/SERVICE BULLETIN 18-072 AS ATTACHED. THIS HAS BEEN OBSERVED 3 TIMES. ON COLD START AFTER ABOUT 5-10 SECONDS THE ENGINE DIES. ADDITIONALLY NO DIAGNOSTIC ERROR CODE OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATES GIVING NO INDICATION THERE IS A PROBLEM. THE CAR DOES START AFTER THIS HAPPENS ALTHOUGH IT HAS IN THE PAST, NOT THE LAST TIME THIS ISSUE OCCURRED, I DID HEAVE TO CHOKE THE ENGINE TO GET IT TO START. DURING THE LAST INCIDENT THE AMBIENT OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE WAS ~70F. THE CAR WAS STARTED AND PUT INTO REVERSE WITHIN THE FIRST 5 SECONDS OF IGNITION. THE VEHICLE WAS ON A FLAT SURFACE DURING THE INCIDENT. NO ACCESSORIES WERE RUNNING EXCEPT FOR THE HEADLIGHTS. I WAS NOT TURNING BUT BACKING UP STRAIGHT INTO A PARKING SPOT BEFORE LOSS OF POWER AND CONTROL.

ENGINE IS A LEMON I PAID $40000 AND THE 3 RD CYLINDER OF THE MOTOR IS BAD MY MECHANIC SAID I NEED A NEW MOTOR BUT HONDA WILL NOT HELP ME I DON'T RECOMMEND IT TO MY FAMILY AND FRIENDS

CAR HAD LOW ENGINE OIL LIGHT COME ON. DEALERSHIP DIAGNOSED IT AS EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION, AND SUGGESTED PISTON RINGS REPLACEMENT, ESTIMATED COST $3000. THE MILEAGE ON CAR WAS 84,155 AND ALWAYS HAD TIMELY OIL CHANGE DONE AT SAME DEALERSHIP. SIMILAR ISSUE WAS APPARENTLY FOR CRV 08-11 MODELS (HTTPS://STATIC.NHTSA.GOV/ODI/TSBS/2018/MC-10152429-0001.PDF).

LIKE SEVERAL OTHER CRV OWNERS, MY VEHICLE IS ALSO SUFFERING FROM AIRBAG WARNING LIGHT. THE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON IN THE JUNE 2020, AND IT'S STILL ON. THE VEHICLE WAS IN A STATIONARY POSITION WHEN THE WARNINGIGHT CAME ON. HONDA DEALER WANTS $1600 TO FIX THE ISSUE. I WANT TO SELL THE CAR, BUT NOW I HAVE TO PAY THAT AMOUNT TO SELL MY CAR. PLEASE HELP.

AFTER A COLD START THE VEHICLE WAS ONLY ABLE TO MOVE AT A LIMP MODE (10 MPH MAX) WITH MULTIPLE WARNING LIGHTS IN THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. VEHICLE HAD TO BE TOWED TO THE NEAREST HONDA DEALERSHIP. AFTER DIAGNOSIS IT WAS REPORTED THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP FAILED. I WAS REPLACED AT A HONDA DEALERSHIP. *TR

CAR PERIODICALLY WILL NOT START AUXILIARY WILL COME ON CLICK CLICK SOUND TAKES SEVERAL TRIES BEFORE THE VEHICLE WILL START I BOUGHT THE CAR A YEAR AGO FROM THE DEALERSHIP CAR IS FIVE YEARS OLD I'VE HAD A 2002 OR 2004 HONDA CRV I'VE NEVER HAD THIS DIFFICULTY IS THERE A STARTER OR ELECTRICAL RECALL. *TR

CAR CUTS OUT SHORTLY AFTER STARTING WHILE BACKING OUT OF DRIVEWAY SEVERAL TIMES PER WEEK. RESTARTS AFTER STOPPING, AND PUTTING IN PARK. HAS HAPPENED 75-100 TIMES FROM 2019-NOW(4/29/20)

WHEN I AM GOING UP ROADS TOWARDS ANY DOWN ROADS, THAT MEANS ANY UP POSITION TO DOWN POSITION THEN MY CAR STOPPING AND NOT MOVING FORWARD AND THE ENGINE MAKING BIG NOISE. I FEEL THE ENGINE TRYING TO SHUT OFF ITSELF. IT IS VERY DANGEROUS FOR ME ALSO FOR OTHER DRIVERS ON ROAD. OTHER DRIVERS THINKING I PRESSED MY BRAKE BUT NOT. I AM NOT PRESSING BRAKE. MY VEHICLE IS HONDA CRV 2015 AND MILEAGE IS 62000. *TR

THE CAR DOES NOT START INSTANTLY WHEN PUSHING THE START BUTTON, IT TAKES 4-5 TRIES TO START. *TR

CAR WAS STATIONARY IN DRIVEWAY AND REAR LIFT GATE GLASS SPONTANEOUSLY EXPLODED.

SERPENTINE BELT BROKE AT JUST OVER 38,000 MILES. I HAD JUST GOTTEN OFF I95, NO LIGHTS ON THE DASH , NOTHING UNUSUAL HAPPENING. UPON BREAKING TO SLOW DOWN, THERE WAS A BAD SMELL AND THEN SMOKE. THIS WAS IN LESS THAN 1 BLOCK FROM THE EXIT.

TOOK VEHICLE IN FOR IT REGULAR OIL CHANGE AND TIRE ROTATION (ALIGNMENT WHEN DEALERSHIP STATES IT IS NEEDED) ON 12/21/19 TO THE DEALERSHIP THAT HAS DONE ALL MAINTENANCE SINCE PURCHASE OF BRAND NEW VEHICLE 12/4/15. AFTER PERFORMING THE ALIGNMENT THAT THE SERVICE DEPT. COULDN'T DO THE DAY BEFORE 12/20/19 I WAS TOLD DUE TO A MANUFACTURING DEFECT THE LEFT REAR CAMBER IS NOT ADJUSTABLE BY THE MANUFACTURER AND IS OUT TWO TWNTHS OF A DEGREE AND THE DEALERSHIP RECOMMENDS AN ADJUSTABLE AFTER MARKET REAR CAMBER ARM THAT CAN BE INSTALLED FOR OVER $306.20 TO AVOID ABNORMAL WEAR ON THE TIRES(WHICH ARE BRAND NEW) AND IN ADDITION TO THE AFTERMARKET PART PLUS TAX ANOTHER ALIGNMENT WOULD NEED TO BE DONE TO ENSURE THIS RESOLVED THE MANUFACTURING DEFECT.

HEAD LIGHT LOW BEAMS WILL NOT TURN ON, BULBS ARE GOOD BUT THE SWITCH IS TURNING OFF HIGH BEAMS BUT NOT TURNING ON LOW BEAMS.