2021 Honda Passport

I bought my car in 2021. Two weeks ago 4-5 dashboard signs came up on my screen. I contacted local dealer and they said they need nearly $3000 to fix it. I told them it’s a safety issue and they refused to budge. I complained to Honda through X and they refused to help me. They are not taking it seriously

After having constant issues with the idle stop and the car alarm going off in the middle of the night and day for no apparent reason I took it to the dealer to get it fixed. After supposedly fixing the idle stop, about two weeks later I was going up a ramp during a heavy traffic hour and the car completely shot down. It took me a few minutes to get it back on. I’ve had issues with this car from day one (brand new). I’m currently trying to get another car.

During an oil change my magnetic drain plug was caked with magnetic gray material with specks of silver flake in it. This oil change has 6142 miles on it. I am concerned because my passport was built in Sept of 2020 right at the transition of the previously recalled j35 motors were produced. Car has been serviced at the Honda dealer since new except last 2 oil changes which were performed by me.

Auto idle malfunctioned. At a stop light the engine turned off and it took 5 minutes to restart the engine. No warning lights or messages appeared before it happened. Had the PGM-Fl Idle stop software update done 9/16/23 at 17,582 miles. Took to dealer they could not re create , the car has 46,359 miles now. This is 2nd vehicle this has happened to me , other vehicle same exact auto idle problem started at 60,000 and I drove it for 13,000 miles experiencing stalling out at lights and in stop and go traffic for over a year ( very dangerous and scary experience ) I took it to 2 different Honda dealers numerous times before they finally replaced starter assembly , starter relays and adjusted the valves per the March 2023 warranty extension notice .

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO MERGE ONTO A SECONDARY ROAD AFTER EXITING THE INTERSTATE ENGINE POWER WASNT THERE AND THE CAR FELT AS IT WAS GOING TO EVENTUALLY JUST DIE. THIS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR HAD BEEN DRIVEN OVER 50 MILES, SO IT WAS AT OPERATING TEMP.. REMOVING FOOT OFF THE THROTTLE AND REALPPLYING SEVERAL TIMES HAD THE CAR RETURN TO FULL POWER. LUCKILY, FOR THIS INCIDENT, TRAFFIC WAS LIGHT AND THE MERGE LANE WAS LONG. SO FAR THIS HAS OCCURED TWICE IN THE MONTYH OF JANUARY 2026.

During a winter storm in approximately 10°F weather, my vehicle became immobilized due to a no-start condition. The starter initially engaged and cranked the engine several times, then failed and would only free-spin without turning the engine. After this occurred, the vehicle could not be shifted into neutral because it is equipped with an electronic shift-by-wire transmission. The only method to move the vehicle requires a proprietary Honda mechanical neutral-release tool (07AAA-TZ3A100). This tool was not supplied with the vehicle, was not available to the owner or responding tow operators, costs over $200, and local Honda dealerships do not carry it in stock. As a result, it was not possible to obtain the tool in an emergency situation. Two flatbed tow trucks responded. Both operators stated the only way to load the vehicle would be to drag it while locked in park, which would likely cause damage to the transmission, drivetrain, or tires. This was not a safe or acceptable option. As a result, occupants were stranded from approximately 1:00 PM until 6:30 PM in 10°F weather with no heat, because the vehicle could not be moved. A single common mechanical failure should not render a vehicle completely immobile with no accessible emergency override. Requiring a costly, proprietary tool that is not provided with the vehicle and not available to dealers or emergency responders creates a serious safety risk due to cold exposure and inability to move or clear the vehicle during emergency conditions.

Was driving 47 mph at 12:35 EST on a clear sunny day and car braked automatically. No car in front of me.

During a normal drive we came to a stoplight, seconds after stopping, an emissions alert displayed along with transmission and VSA (I think). Upon seeing these codes I began to drive into a gas station and the vehicle barely moved with little power. We were able to park about 40 feet away and the vehicle would not move any further. This sounds similar to the existing recall but this model year is not included. I had to have the vehicle towed.

Vehicle has been having AIS issues for a couple of years, requiring new batteries, new starter/relays and countless internal computer updates (none of which have helped btw...). This morning she had the AIS engaged, went to turn left at a green light and when she released the brake the vehicle threw itself into Neutral and flashed a "Auto Idle Stop System Problem" message on the dash. She put it into park and tried to restart, which failed, she then had to turn the vehicle off completely and restart from there. As I mentioned, none of the computer updates Honda has done for this vehicle have helped and it's my understanding there is a block of vehicles in this age range (all Passports, Ridgelines and Pilots) that continue to have problems with the AIS as well. Honda needs to disable this "feature" on any vehicles they cannot fix via computer updates IMMEDIATELY before they get someone killed. Not to mention, we are sick and tired of having to replace the battery and/or starter every couple of years. Honda should not be putting tax breaks above their customers safety and satisfaction. You know it's bad when their 30+ year techs go out of their way to buy a used Honda just to avoid the AIS because they don't know what to do with it at this point either.

Car slammed on brakes while on interstate, the system likes to say brake, brake, brake, when there is nothing to brake for but a few days ago it actually took action and slammed on brakes on the freeway.

SRS warning light came on. Diagnostic found Code U3000-49 Internal Failure of the SRS unit-Seat weight sensors on front passenger seat Front seat lower frame/rail required replacement and was completed by the dealer at my out of pocket cost. This vehicle was not included in the Honda 750,000 vehicle recall for this same defect. Reference Notice 24-050

No incident has occurred. However, my concern is that a recall was issued on February 1, 2024 (NHTSA Recall Number 24V-064), and as of October 31, 2025, Honda is still stating that parts are not available to complete the repair. I first contacted Honda in March 2025—over a year after the recall was issued—and was informed that the necessary parts were still unavailable. I called again in October 2025, and received the same response. We are now approaching two years since this recall was announced, and it is unacceptable and inexcusable that Honda has yet to provide the parts needed to correct this safety issue.

To preface: All of these issues only occur when the engine idle feature is on. I have not experienced any of these problems when the feature is off. Question #1: When I release the brake with the engine idle on, the vehicle will sometimes completely shut off. When this happens, the steering wheel and brakes lock up, and I am unable to restart the vehicle for at least 60 seconds. Question #2: On one occasion, my wife, our 8-month-old child, and I were stuck at a green light for about 60 seconds while unable to restart the vehicle. Cars were passing by at over 50 mph, and we were relying on other drivers to notice us in time. This situation has happened multiple times and poses a serious safety risk to both us and others on the road. Question #3: I have not taken the vehicle in for service because the issue is difficult to reproduce consistently. That uncertainty is part of the problem, along with the anxiety of not knowing whether the car will suddenly shut off. Question #4: For the same reason, I have not been able to demonstrate the problem on demand. However, the main concern is that I should not have to worry about my vehicle stalling when I go to accelerate. Question #5: The vehicle has completely shut off four separate times over the past year. On one occasion, after releasing the brake, the engine struggled to reach normal RPMs and the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned the vehicle off, restarted it, and it seemed fine afterward, although it had noticeably less power while the check engine light was on. Lastly, there have been several instances where the engine did not completely shut off when the idle feature was on, but when I released the brake to accelerate, I heard a clicking sound and the vehicle seemed as though it was about to stall. It then resumed operation normally as the idle system re-engaged. Since this happens intermittently, it has been difficult to recreate during a diagnostic inspection.

I own the 2021 Honda Passport (Touring). On numerous occasions while making left or right turns. The truck will decelerate by itself, and the engine will rev up and the RPM increase but the truck fails to respond when the accelerator pedal is depressed. I continue to press the accelerator pedal, and the truck eventually appears to catch up with its speed. Very dangerous when trying to enter from expressway lane. There also are occasions on straight lane take offs that truck appears sluggish in normal gear shifting.

CMBS (Collision Mitigation Braking System) Problem

The contact owns a 2021 Honda Passport. The contact stated that upon starting the vehicle, there was an abnormal knocking sound coming from the engine compartment. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed a failure with the connecting rod bearing in cylinder #3, resulting in damage to the engine. The vehicle was not repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 23V751000 (Engine and Engine Cooling); however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, a case was opened, and the contact was referred to the NHTSA Hotline for assistance. The failure mileage was 73,000.

My Passport has shut down 4 times recently while idling at a stop. There is a auto start/stop feature on the car that shuts down the engine at stops until the brake is released. The problem is that it sometimes does not restart after releasing the brake. The first 3 times it happened at an intersection so it was no big deal. The last time, today, it stalled on a highway as soon as I stopped for heavy traffic. The car was automatically put it neutral and it took me about 40-50 seconds to realize what happened and to restart while the lanes next to me started moving at highway speeds. I looked up the problem online and saw a "Honda Idle-Stop Class Action Suit ([XXX])" and found out that it is happening to others as well. [XXX] I am not looking for money but want this to be looked at. I will be taking my vehicle in for repairs at a Honda dealership later this week. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact owns a 2021 Honda Passport. The contact stated that while depressing the accelerator pedal, there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. In addition, the vehicle vibrated abnormally and drove roughly. No warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, where it was diagnosed, and determined that the high-pressure fuel pump had failed and needed to be replaced. The dealer suggested that the fuel injector and throttle body needed to be cleaned; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired due to the cost. The contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 23V858000 (FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE); however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.

my vehicle shut off during idle for energy compensation. It failed to restart and allow the vehicle to be in drive causing the car to stall out and not turn back on.

One day the lights just started flashing. Took to dealer and was told that someone must have backed into me and would be about $2500 to replace the camera (which is behind the windshield). Occasionally it will function but clearly seems to be a malfunction. In research online there appear to be many others that have experienced the same issue - can’t just be a coincidence. Shouldn’t happen on a reliable four/five year old car