2017 Hyundai Veloster Complaint Log

The engine failed due to suspected rod bearing failure related to Hyundai’s known rod bearing recall issue. The vehicle exhibited a flashing check engine light with diagnostic trouble code P1326, knocking noises, metal debris found in the oil control solenoid, and subsequent secondary damage to the catalytic converter. The engine has not been opened by the Hyundai dealership despite these indicators. The vehicle and affected components are available for inspection upon request. The engine condition poses a serious safety risk. An independent mechanic advised that the rod bearing issue presents a fire hazard and stated the vehicle should not be driven due to the risk of engine failure, fire, loss of life, loss of power while driving. A sudden engine failure or fire could endanger the driver, passengers, and other motorists. Yes. The Hyundai dealership documented secondary engine damage but failed to perform the required open-engine rod bearing clearance test despite recall-related symptoms. An independent mechanic confirmed the issue is consistent with rod bearing failure and advised that the vehicle is unsafe to drive. The vehicle was inspected by an authorized Hyundai dealership and reviewed by Hyundai corporate. Hyundai corporate relied solely on the dealership’s incomplete inspection and denied further investigation or goodwill repair. The vehicle has also been inspected by an independent mechanic who identified the rod bearing issue as a safety hazard. Yes. Prior to the failure, the vehicle experienced a flashing check engine light and stored diagnostic code P1326. The engine produced knocking noises and showed signs of internal metal debris and secondary damages. The absence of early warning indicators prevented earlier detection. However, the extent of internal metal debris and secondary component damage demonstrates a progressive engine failure consistent with known rod bearing defects, rather than a sudden event after the warranty threshold.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that while her sister was driving approximately 65 MPH, the vehicle stalled. The driver pulled over to the side of the road. The vehicle was able to be restarted, but made an abnormal knocking sound. The check engine warning light was flashing. The vehicle was towed to the residence. The dealer was contacted and informed that the vehicle needed to be diagnosed to confirm whether it was covered under warranty. The dealer informed the contact that towing assistance would be provided; however, the dealer drove the vehicle to the repair center, where it was diagnosed, and metal debris was found in the oil control solenoid. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was driven back to the residence. A mobile independent mechanic diagnosed the vehicle and recommended either the rod bearings or engine replacement. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and contacted the dealer. The manufacturer then informed the contact that the dealer advised that the vehicle could not be diagnosed or receive a free repair unless unrelated repairs were first performed. The manufacturer denied a Goodwill Assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 161,000.

I bought the vehicle 14 days ago and everything was going well until black smoke started to come out of the exhaust and it started to smell burnt. I brought a mechanic to my house and he told me that the engine had already died

Here is what happened I left my house about 8 am and I head towards the 101 south from union hills drive and 83rd Ave I'm on the 101 south and yhe time I am passing the Thunderbird exit I hear a loud explosion and I duck a little bit and I see a bunch of black debris in the air it happened so fast and then a bunch of glass from my sunroof starts hitting me in the head on my neck falling into my lap going down my shirt and into my coffee. So I pull over off the next exit ramp and pull into and industrial park and I got out and started to sweep glass off of me and out of my car so I can still make it to work on time, I took a couple pics at that time, then I proceeded back towards the highway to make it to work. I get back onto the 101 south and make it to work in Goodyear, I cleaned some more glass off of me and called my insurance. This is a huge safety issue, glass landed everywhere. I could have crashed, it could have hit other vehicles, im not injured but it scared me really bad after the explosion I was covered in glass from head to toe.

The 2017 Hyundai Veloster- Value edition is a Lemon straight from the manufacturer. I purchased mine in July of 2024 with 27,000 miles. When I test drove it I questioned the clicking noises that could be heard while switching gears along with minor "shuddering" at acceleration. I was informed by gentleman at Dealer that it was a normal characteristic of owning a DCT vehicle. One year later 7/2025 I have been experiencing more intense issues with clutch/transmission. I have a great loss of power at acceleration, it will stay bogged at 1,000-1,500 RPM'S before it engages and revs with a jolt forward. It is unsafe to pull out or lane change on highway. It also is shuddering upon every acceleration from a dead stop. The clicking noises are now accompanied by clicking noises any time it shift gears. I get an intermittent smell of something burning. It is DEFINITELY UNSAFE to drive in any temperature above 75° due to the vehicle not being able to get out of its own way. All issues are intensified. I brought the vehicle to Hyundai service center and all that was recommended was a coolant flush and Dual Clutch Transmission service, which I paid to have done. I am not the original owner so any manufacturer warranty is out the window. Any research done by consumer will show pages and pages of complaints about the 2017 Veloster and DCT problems. Hyundai NEEDS TO MAKE GOOD on the unsafe garbage they sold us! Let me inform you that the vehicle I am currently making this complaint about has less than 48,000 miles today 7/9/2025

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that on three separate occasions while driving at undisclosed speeds, the vehicle went into LIMP Mode with the check engine warning light flashing on the instrument panel. The vehicle had been towed and driven to the dealer and an independent mechanic to be repaired. The contact was informed by the dealer and an independent mechanic that a knock sensor failure had caused the failure. The contact stated that the combustion chamber had been cleaned and the catalytic converter was replaced; however, the failure persisted. The contact also stated that the vehicle was consuming an excessive amount of engine oil. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired and remained with the dealer. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.

I was driving on the highway; the speed limit is 70mph. I had the sunroof of my 2017 Hyundai Veloster open to the first stage. The glass in the sunroof literally exploded, (it sounded like a gun going off) blasting shattered glass down on me and all of the interior of the car, (scared the [XXX] out of me!) Luckily, I wasn't hurt and managed to pull over without any traffic incident, but this could have easily caused personal injury or a collision on the highway at 70mph. It wasn't struck by anything, and the glass was in perfect condition without visual defects, i.e., chips, scratches etc. It has been turned into my insurance and I am going to request that the new glass gets a coating like the windshield to prevent the glass from coming apart like this in the event that this happens again. I think all sunroof glass should be treated this way from the factory, a broken window or sunroof is enough distraction while driving without being showered in glass. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle hesitated while depressing the accelerator pedal before the vehicle surged forward. There was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where the DTC scanner determined that the transmission had failed and needed to be replaced. Prior to the transmission failure, the engine and exhaust system were replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that there were no recalls on the vehicle. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

White paint peeling on hood.

Paint peeling issue on hood. Filed for Hyundai to repair last 12/24, Hyundai denied claim 12/20/2024, without detailed reasons. Secondary extended warranty is suppose to be for 10 years regardless of mileage.p Hyundai case# [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

I took my vehicle in to get the initial KSDS recall campaign updated (knock sensor). The car failed on my way home from the dealership and they scheduled me the next day to fix the problem (the acknowledged the knock sensor update caused the failure and is the that beginning step in obtaining a new engine from Hyundai. They then gave me a loaner car while my car was going to be repaired. I then recieve a call from the Hyundai service center about how my salvage title status excludes me from further repairs. I am then forced to drive my car home again with a failed engine. The sneaky way this is being done is horrific and on a massive scale. I was duped into getting the recalls from the letters sent out by Hyundai and at no point was there transparency about what would and did happen with my vehicle (and many others). No acknowledgement on how most if not all cars who get the update fail about 10 miles after driving it again, and lose power (I was on the highway in the far left lane). I was robbed of my ability to make an informed decision about my vehicle, this whole process is shrouded in secrecy from the consumer and I'm left holding the bag and the dangerous un drivable vehicle. I'm not sure how I can be cohersed from the manufacturer to let them fix their initial errors and be left with a non working car and expected to pay for the bill. There was no transparency about what I was signing up for, the ramifications and the safety hazards with the cars being statistically most likely to fail on the way home. What they are doing to me and many other people is dangerous and extremely wrong on many levels. When the engine failed I was extremely close to being rear ended and causing a large accident as it was full and fast moving traffic on the highway. I was fast acting and maneuvered properly and safely. Some will probably not be that lucky. There was no real warning, just a heavy thud and lose of power in tandum with the check engine light flashing (never has before

Today the vehicle was hesitant to start but did. After two stops I turned car off, went into a business. When I came out the car would start but would not go forward or backwards but rev up. I nearly slammed into a curb in the process. I have a video of this.

My cars battery continues to die with a check engine light coming on constantly. The vehicle continues to hesitate. The car door mounting lock broke while driving while my toddler was in the back of the vehicle and the door flew open on a road.

I own a 2017 hyundai veloster with roughly 122,000 miles on it, recently I got in my car to go to work, started the vehicle and exited my apartment complex onto a local road drove roughly a half mile to the on ramp for the highway, the car was just about up to its usual operating temperature when I accelerated down the on ramp and merged into traffic, at this time there were no warning lights, the engine temperature was normal, the car reached roughly 55/60mph and immediately lost power, pressing the gas pedal harder caused the car to lose more power and buck. At this time there were still no warning lights on the dash, the car slowed down to roughly 30/35mph presenting a significant danger to myself and other traffic as this was on a major highway with heavy amounts of traffic. It was approximately 4 miles to the next exit and the only safe place that I could exit the highway/ flow of traffic. The car was turned off and sat for roughly 5 minutes at which time I restarted the vehicle and drove it home on a local side road, the vehicle had no power and would not accelerate or maintain a speed above 30mph, at this time there were still no check engine lights on. A tow truck was called to haul the car to a local repair shop as the dealer had no openings for service, at the time the tow truck showed up to load up my car the vehicle was started breifly and a check engine light was now on, the local repair shop diagnosed the issue as a failed catalytic converter and the engine code as indicating inefficient emissions control readings on an 02 sensor. The repair shop could not come up with a reasonable answer as to how the catalytic converter had failed other than saying it had completely melted the material in the converter. The engine had no misfires, fuel issues, excessive oil consumption at this time and no engine codes were active or stored indicating any of theses issues. The catalytic converter failure is a major saftey issue that is happening on hyundai engines.

Purchased the car as a used vehicle in October 2023, dealer claimed to have changed the oil , in May the car we no longer running, I took it to a Hyundai dealership where they told me that I need a new engine because of oil consumption… This is something that should be included in the current class action lawsuit, the car is dangerous to drive as it will not stay running stalls in traffic, not to mention I’m out thousands of dollars due to an issue

Occasionally when traveling at speeds under 30 mph and you depress the accelerator the engine will hesitate to respond for several seconds.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated while driving at approximately 60 MPH, the check engine warning light illuminated, and the vehicle lost motive power and decelerated before stalling. The vehicle was later towed to the local mechanic who diagnosed that cylinder #1 experienced low compression. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced or repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. A service appointment was scheduled with the local dealer. The failure mileage was 130,000.

I was leaving work and the car lost power and it would barely move. I was able to get it to the side of the road. After that, then engine light came on and the car would not start. The engine was shaking very bad. I had to have my Veloster towed while my daughter and I were stuck on the side of the road.

While driving this vehicle, it suffered catastrophic engine failure, I had no low oil pressure or check engine warning lights until the failure occurred. I was stranded on the I-270 outer-belt of Columbus, OH during the early morning hours of July 20, 2022, That is a hazardous place to be with traffic passing my vehicle at high rates of speed. I checked my engine oil and there was nothing on the dipstick. The vehicle had not exceeded its oil change window. The vehicle has not been inspected by the manufacturer/police/or insurer. AAA Gahanna New Albany Service Center 614-750-8350 verified that the engine was blown. It is unsafe that and engine can be suddenly oil starved with no low oil pressure light, leaving the driver at the side of the highway amid fast moving traffic.

The vacuum pump had an internal mechanical failure, resulting in complete failure of the airbag control module, electronic stability control system, power steering, ABS, and speedometer. These were all shown as warning lights on the dashboard, starting with the ESC, then sporadic airbag light, sporadic steering light, etc.. In the event of a crash, the airbags would not have deployed. In the event of low-traction conditions, the car would not have been able to maintain control and I could have crashed. In the event of turning across traffic, my steering could have failed and I could have crashed. Due to the speedometer malfunction, I could have been going too fast and put myself and others at risk for high-speed collision. This problem has been confirmed and repaired by a Hyundai Dealership. The repairs would have been covered under warranty, but the vehicle is no longer under warranty. The dealership specified that there was nothing I could have done to prevent this failure. Occurred at 78,000 miles on March 18, 2022.

2017 Hyundai Veloster, about 85,000 miles. Engine seized at 50 MPH on a busy three lane city street during rush hour traffic. This is a safety issue as i could have been rear ended if i did not change lanes to get off the Main Street. There was no check engine light, even after engine failure. Hyundai dealership has looked at the engine and deemed it non recall related, and i will have to pay out of pocket. Hyundai service advisor verbally told me there were about 15 other cars at his location that had the same exact problem. There were metal shaving found in my oil pan and the short block will need to be replaced. I beleive this to be related to excessive oil consumption that led to engine damage that went undetected due to the failed knock sensor (the open recall) I have not received my diagnostic paperwork but will have available upon request.

After knock sensor recall update engine has lost all power and has a knocking and clicking sound.

Vehicle makes a loud noise when shifting and sometimes will not shift at all.

While Driving on the freeway my CEL came on and started blinking i loss power and slowly got to the first exit on the freeway. A week later i brought the vehicle to the Patriot Hyundai in Elmonte CA., i mentioned the extended powertrain warranty Ref# TXXM and the dealer held on to my vehicle for 40 days giving me excuses and not calling me back. After getting a hold of the manager they said my warranty request was denied due to low compression in my first cylinder caused by a hole in my engine block & the amount of miles on my vehicle.

Engine rob has blow out the engine. Car has been at dealership since September 2021. First had to await to see if Hyundai would approve replacement. Second had to wait for engine to get to dealership. Third waiting for gaskets that are on back order to get to delership.

Almost got into an accident with 2017 Hyundai Veloster. Car stopped accelerating. Car had service campaign to enhance knock sensor software to detect abnormal engine bearing noise before potentially "severe engine damage occurs." They did not explain engine could have issue. Engine oil keeps disappearing. I went more than 5 times no fix yet. One time they put a free oil change. I keep going to Hyundai and am told nothing is wrong with car by Hyundai dealer. Months later I receive a letter from Hyundai extending warranty due to connecting rod bearing wear for replacement of engine. According to Hyundai," If abnormal engine bearing noise is detected, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will blink continuously, and the vehicle will be placed in Engine Protection Mode allowing the customer to drive to the nearest Hyundai dealer for diagnosis and repair. In addition, DTC P132600 will be recorded in the ECM. The vehicle can continue to be operated for a limited time in Engine Protection Mode, but it will accelerate slower and have a reduced maximum speed. Engine RPMs will be limited to approximately 1800-2000 RPM." My car is doing that. I told dealer. They tried to charge me to change my coils and sparkplugs and refused to check my engine unless I fixed that first. They said they don't know what's going on even though Hyundai sent a letter out stating engines will be fixed because of rod bearing wear. Hyundai knows that the engine is bad and extending warranty for engines but are not recalling the engines. People can die from this. Engine oil that leaks because of this can heat up and cause cars to explode/cause accidents.

CAR WAS RUNNING FINE, MAYBE A LITTLE LOUD ON STARTUP. UNDER A LEFT HAND TURN ON SURFACE STREETS, ADDING POWER AT ABOUT 30 MPH, ENGINE STALLED IN HIGH 3RD GEAR WITH A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, BATTERY LIGHT, AND LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT. I PULLED OVER AND COULD NOT GET THE CAR TO RESTART (SOUNDED LIKE THE ALTERNATOR AND BELT WERE MOVING, BUT THE MOTOR WOULD NOT TURN OVER.) GOT IT TOWED TO A DEALERSHIP, WHERE THEY ARE IN THE PROCESS OF GETTING APPROVAL FOR A NEW MOTOR. THEY CLAIM THAT THE MOTOR LOST ALL COMPRESSION, AND FAILED A BEARING TEST. IT WOULD NOT SURPRISE ME IF IT WAS A BEARING FAILURE ON THE CRANKSHAFT, LIKE OTHERS HAVE MENTIONED ON HERE. SHOULD PROBABLY BE UNDER THE RECALL THAT INCLUDED THE 2016 MODEL YEAR, AS CLEARLY THAT PROBLEM WAS NOT RESOLVED IN THE 2017 MODEL YEAR GAMMA ENGINES.

ON MY WAY HOME FROM WORK MY CAR STALLED OUT ON THE HIGHWAY. LUCKILY TRAFFIC WASN'T HEAVY AND I WAS ABLE TO MAKE IT OVER TO THE SHOULDER ACCIDENT FREE. MY CAR WOULDN'T CUT BACK ON SO I GOT IT TOWED TO VANDERGRIFF HYUNDAI IN ARLINGTON TX. THEY QUOTED ME $12,322.45 TO FIX MY CAR. SAID THERE WAS A HOLE I MY SHORT BLOCK. THE CAUSE OF CONNECTING-ROD BEARINGS IN THE ENGINE THAT WORE OUT AND MADE A HOLE MY ENGINE. THE CAR IS ONLY WORTH 6,000 ON KELLY BLUE BOOK AND THAT REPAIR COAST IS MORE THAN I OWE ON THE VEHICLE. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO RECALL THE 2017 MODEL AND MAKE IT RIGHT. THE SPECS ON THE 2015-2016 IS NO DIFFERENT FROM THE 2017. AND THERE IS NO DENYING THAT THE ENGINE PROBLEM IS THE SAME.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI VELOSTER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE LOSS MOTIVE POWER AND STALLED WITH THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO MCGRATH CITY HYUNDAI (6750 W. GRAND AVENUE, CHICAGO, IL 60707 (773) 889-9090) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED AND DETERMINED THAT THE CONNECTING ROD BEARING WAS BENT AND THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT MENTIONED NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 20V746000 (ENGINE) AS A POSSIBLE SOLUTION TO THE FAILURE HOWEVER, THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 80,371.

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK MY CAR STALLED OUT GOING THRU AN INTERSECTION. I WENT ABOUT ANOTHER HALF MILE AND PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR TO CLIMB THE HILL BY MY APARTMENT AND I HERD A LOUD BANG LOST ALL POWER AND OIL AT THE SAME TIME I WAS ABLE TO COAST INTO MY APARTMENT WHERE IT IS STILL SITTING I HAD RECENTLY HAD THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACED AT VOSS HYUNDAI WHERE NOTHING WAS SAID ABOUT THE NOISE IT WAS MAKING PRIOR TO MY VISIT WITCH SHOWS THERE LACK OF COMPLETING A VEHICLE INSPECTION. NOW I SEE THE 2016 VELOSTER HAS A RECALL FOR EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED TO MY CAR I WOULD LIKE TO SEE IF MY CAR CAN BE ADDED TO THE RECALL .IT WAS MADE IN OCT OF 16

VEHICLE STALLS WHEN TAKING FOOT OFF THE BRAKE. WON'T PROPERLY DRIVE

MY ACCIDENT THE AIR BAG DID NOT DEPLOY HITTING ANOTHER VEHICLE IT DEPLOYED AFTER HITTING A CURB WHICH WOULD HAVE BEEN 2 ND IMPACT TO DEPLOY IT SHOULD HAVE COME OUT THEN, THE BAR IN THE HEAD REST CAME OUT WHICH CUT MY HEAD AND I RECEIVED STAPLES IN MY HEAD. WHAT THE OTHER METAL THINGS THAT FLEW OUT OF THE STEERING I DON'T KNOW BUT THEY CUT AND BURNED MY ARM VERY BAD. I WAS GOING STRAIGHT ON A TWO LANE STREET. WHEN THE CAR BACKED INTO TO THE INTERSECTION IT DID NOT COME FROM MY RIGHT OR MY LEFT. I WAS 3/4 OF THE WAY ACROSS THE INTERSECTION WHEN THIS CAR APPEARED BACKING UP. I COULD NOT STOP IN TIME AND HIT IT IN THE REAR OF THEIR CAR.*DT

PASSENGER DOOR STARTED CREAKING UPON OPENING AND CLOSING MEANWHILE MY VEHICLE IS ONLY 3 YEARS OLD , AS WELL AS MY DRIVER SIDE WINDOW GETS STUCK AND GETS OFF TRACK WHICH I HAVE TO PULL UP MY WINDOW TO CLOSE . I KNOW A FEW MORE PEOPLE WITH A 2015-2017 VELOSTER AND THEY ARE ALL EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUES.

PANORAMIC SUN ROOF SHATTERED TODAY, 8 JAN 2019. MY CAR HAS 14, 200 MILES ON IT. THERE WAS SNOW ON THE TOP OF MY CAR (ON THE SUN ROOF). AFTER MY CAR WAS WARMED UP (AND STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT), I HEARD A STRANGE CRACKLING TYPE NOISE. I DID NOT SUSPECT IT WAS GLASS UNTIL I HIT A BUMP IN THE ROAD AND THEN HEARD PIECES OF SOMETHING FALLING ONTO THE PROTECTIVE/RETRACTABLE CURTAIN OF MY SUNROOF. I PULLED OFF THE ROAD AND NOTICED THE ENTIRE SUNROOF WAS CRACKED WITH PIECES FALLING ONTO THE CURTAIN.

OIL LEAK LEAD TO ENGINE KNOCKING WHICH LEAD TO THE COMPLETE FAILURE OF THE ENGINE. PISTON RODS ARE DESTROYED ENGINE FAILURE HAPPENED WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE ROAD ENGINE LOST POWER WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. MY CAR HAS BEEN PARKED SINCE.

MY VEHICLE HAS A DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION THAT SLIPS AT TIMES AND WON'T ALWAYS GO INTO GEAR. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE THAT HAPPENS RANDOMLY MOSTLY DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS. THE PROBLEM HAS OCCURED ABOUT FOUR TIMES DURING THE YEAR THAT I HAVE OWNED IT. IT A VERY SCARY THING TO DEAL WITH WHEN YOU'RE OUT IN TRAFFIC AND TRYING TO DRIVE SAFELY. THE DEALER SERVICE DEPARTMENT SAYS THAT THEY HAVE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM IN ORDER TO TAKE ACTION AT ALL. SINCE THIS IS AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM THAT HAPPENS IN THE SUMMER MONTHS, I CAN'T EVEN GET IT REPAIRED, OR REPLACED UNTIL THE WEATHER WARMS UP. THIS IS A DANGEROUS PROBLEM THAT HYUNDAI IS AWARE OF, I WAS TOLD BY HYUNDAI THAT THE HYUNDAI TUSCON HAS THE SAME PROBLEM ONLY WORSE. AS OF NOW THEY HAVE NOT ISSUED A RECALL ON ANY OF THESE VEHICLES FOR THIS PARTICULAR PROBLEM. THE SERVICE MANAGER TOLD ME THAT THE PROBLEM IS WITH THE CLUTCH PACS AND THAT A VERIFIED PROBLEM VEHICLE GETS THOSE CLUTCH PACS REPLACED AS LONG AS THE VEHICLE IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. MY VEHICLE HAS 54879 MILES ON IT AND IS UNDER WARRANTY THROUGH 100,000 MILES UNLESS THIS CAUSES AN ACCIDENT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI VELOSTER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY LOST POWER AND WOULD NOT PROPERLY ACCELERATE WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE SPEED BEGAN TO DECREASE BEFORE THE ENGINE STALLED, THE CHECK ENGINE INDICATOR ILLUMINATED, AND THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE INCREASED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO KEITH HAWTHORNE HYUNDAI (4712 WILKERSON BLVD, GASTONIA, NC) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT METAL SHAVINGS WERE PRESENT INSIDE THE ENGINE AND THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 61,000.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated while manually washing the vehicle, the contact observed that there was corrosion coming from under the paint of all four rims. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where all four rims were replaced with the manufacturer's original rims. The contact stated that the corrosion from under the paint looked like splotches and there was a clear coat that kept the corrosion from breaking through the surface. The contact stated that the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the cause of the corrosion was unknown. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 5,000.

WHILE DRIVING, THE CAR LOSES POWER, AS IF THE TRANSMISSION STOPS WORKING AND THEN THE ENGINE REVS UP VERY HIGH, BUT THE CAR STOPS PULLING. THIS HAPPENS WHILE DRIVING ON STRAIGHT A WAYS, HAS HAPPENED WHEN CROSSING IN FRONT OF TRAFFIC, DOING TURNS. YOU HAVE TO LET OFF OF THE GAS AND WAIT A FEW SECONDS AND THEN WHEN YOU PRESS THE HAS, THE POWER SUDDENLY RETURNS. IT JUST STALLS OUT. THERE IS CURRENTLY A CLASS ACTION THAT INCLUDES THIS ISSUE BECAUSE SO MANY EXPERIENCE IT AND HYUNDAI SAYS THEY CAN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG.

PULLING AWAY FROM RESIDENCE AND UPON TRYING TO OPEN SUN ROOF IT SHATTERED. VEHICLE BELONGS TO GRAND DAUGHTER AND SHE WAS DRIVING.

I PURCHASED A NEW 2017 VELOSTER IN MAY 2018. BEGINNING IN MID AUGUST I STARTED TO HAVE PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR NOT STOPPING AND THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKING WHEN ATTEMPTING TO STOP. IT HAPPENED ON 3 DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. ESCALATING EACH TIME. THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED I ALMOST HIT SOMEONE IN THE BACK. THE SECOND TIME I ALMOST ENDED UP IN ONCOMING TRAFFIC GOING THROUGH THE STOP LIGHT. THE THIRD TIME I GOT INTO AN ACCIDENT WHILE TRYING TO MAKE A TURN AND THE WHEEL AND BRAKES DID THE SAME THING AGAIN...MAKING MY CAR NOT DRIVEABLE CURRENTLY. MY CAR HAS ABOUT 3000 MILES ON IT. EACH TIME THIS OCCURRED I WAS ON A CITY STREET WITH STOP LIGHTS. AVERAGE SPEED 35-45 .

VERY SLUGGISH NO POWER IT OVER REVS THE ENGINE AND DOESN'T SHIFT RIGHT THROWS RPM WAY TO HIGH THIS HAPPENS EVERY TIME I DRIVE IT NOT JUST SOME TIMES BUT EVERY TIME

MY BLUE LINK CONNECTED CARE HAS SENT ME 3 MONTHLY HEALTH REPORTS OF MY VEHICLE AND HAVE ALL SAID AIR BAG PROBLEM NEED SERVICE IMMEDIATELY BUT I HAVE NO LIGHT TURNED ON IN MY TACHOMETER, I BARELY GOT THIS CAR 3 MONTHS IT'S TOO SOON TO HAVE A PROBLEM LIKE THIS AND ALSO HAVE TOOK IT TO GET IT SERVICED . I'M ONLY CONCERNED BECAUSE IF IT DOES COME DOWN TO A ACCIDENT WILL MY AIR BAGS WORK?

ON TUESDAY, APRIL 10, 2018 JUST AFTER 7P THE SUNROOF EXPLODED - WITHOUT WARNING - WHILE I WAS DRIVING AT 70 MPH ON INTERSTATE 10 JUST EAST OF HOUSTON. IT HAD NOT BEEN STRUCK BY AN OBJECT AND THE HIGHWAY SURFACE IS SMOOTH CONCRETE. GLASS SHOWERED DOWN ON MY AND FLEW OFF THE ROOF OF MY CAR - STRIKING MY PAINT AND SPOILER ON THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. I'M THANKFUL THAT I DID NOT WRECK AND KILL MYSELF OR SOMEONE ELSE. WHEN IT EXPLODED, THERE WAS A LOUD POP THAT SOUNDED LIKE A GUNSHOT. MY HEART SKIPPED A BEAT AS GLASS SHOWERED DOWN ON ME. FOR A MOMENT, I THOUGHT I HAD BEEN SHOT AT BY A SNIPER - WHAT ELSE WOULD CAUSE A SUNROOF TO EXPLODE WITH NO WARNING AND WITHOUT THE VEHICLE STRIKING ROAD DEBRIS?

The Airbag warning light came on soon after I bought the car and I took it to the dealership. They said it was sensor under passenger seat and repaired. A week later, did it again. Said it was probably another bad sensor under seat. It intermittently goes off and on now every few months. I have no idea if the airbag would work if I were in an accident. I haven’t continued to keep taking it back for more new sensors anymore. (I don’t believe every single new sensor they put in has gone bad.) So I’m at a loss what to do.

I BELIEVE THIS VEHICLE HAS A SEVERE SAFETY-AFFECTING PROBLEM WITH THE PROGRAMMING OF IT'S ENGINE CONTROL UNIT. UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, MOSTLY (BUT NOT ALWAYS) WHILE THE ENGINE IS COLD OR COOL, THE VEHICLE OCCASIONALLY WILL NOT RESPOND TO INPUTS FROM THE THROTTLE PEDAL. THIS OCCURS WHILE THE ROAD IS CLEAN AND DRY - I WANT TO STRESS THAT THIS IS NOT A MANIFESTATION OF TRACTION CONTROL. DURING THESE INCIDENTS EVEN IF THE THROTTLE PEDAL IS FULLY DEPRESSED THE CAR WILL ONLY ACCELERATE VERY SLOWLY. WHEN THIS OCCURS, VARYING THE AMOUNT OF THROTTLE HAS NO AFFECT. MORE WORRYINGLY, THIS EVENING, THE REDUCTION IN POWER WAS SO SEVERE THAT THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE AT ALL. THE REDUCTION IN ACCELERATION PERSISTS AS LONG AS YOUR FOOT REMAINS ON THE THROTTLE PEDAL, REGARDLESS OF THE DISTANCE YOU MAY HAVE TRAVELLED DURING THE INCIDENT. NORMAL THROTTLE BEHAVIOR ONLY RETURNS ONCE YOU FULLY RELEASE THE THROTTLE PEDAL, THEN REAPPLY THROTTLE. ALL OF THE ABOVE OCCURS ON FLAT STREETS AND HIGHWAYS. THIS IS A FAULT IN THE ENGINE CONTROL UNIT OR TRANSMISSION CONTROL UNIT'S PROGRAMMING. IN A MERGING SCENARIO, SUCH AN UNEXPECTED AND COMPREHENSIVE REDUCTION IN ACCELERATION IS A SEVERE SAFETY HAZARD THAT I BELIEVE WARRANTS THE NHTSA'S ATTENTION.

I WAS TRAVELING IN A SNOWSTORM ON THE HIGHWAY. THE ENGINE BEGAN REVVING AND THE TACHOMETER WENT WAY UP. NO TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WENT ON AND I BEGAN SLOWING DOWN WITH VEHICLES BEHIND ME. I PULLED THROUGH THE TRAFFIC AND GOT TO THE SHOULDER. THE CAR WAS STILL IN DRIVE BUT THE WHEELS WOULDN'T TURN. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID TO HAVE IT TOWED. I SHUT THE ENGINE OFF, OPENED THE DOOR AND TRIED AGAIN. NOTHING. NO FORWARD MOVEMENT. AFTER 10 MINUTES I TRIED AGAIN AND IT WORKED, I BEGAN MOVING FORWARD. THIS HAPPENED EVER HALF MILE OR SO UNTIL I GOT TO THE DEALERSHIP, 8 MILES AWAY. THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. THEY TESTED IT AND THE SERVICE TECH SAID THE WHEELS MUST HAVE BEEN SPINNING AND I SHOULD GET SNOW TIRES. I ASSURED HIM THAT THE WHEELS DID NOT SPIN. HE STATED THAT THE COMPUTER DIDN'T RECEIVE AN ERROR SO THERE IS NOT A PROBLEM. THEY RESET THE ENGINE LIGHT AND I LEFT. IT HASN'T HAPPENED SINCE, BUT NOW I AM SCARED TO DRIVE IF IT SNOWS AGAIN. YOU LITERALLY LOSE ALL FORWARD MOTION ON THE HIGHWAY AND SLOW WAY DOWN AS YOU ATTEMPT TO MOVE TO THE SHOULDER AROUND OTHER VEHICLES. I SENT AN EMAIL TO HYUNDAI WHO SAID TO TAKE IT TO A DIFFERENT DEALERSHIP. I ORIGINALLY TOOK IT TO NASHUA HYUNDAI IN NH.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI VELOSTER. WHILE DRIVING 58 MPH, THE VEHICLE FISHTAILED AND CRASHED INTO A FENCE. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS DEEMED DESTROYED; HOWEVER, THE INSURANCE COMPANY STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO BE REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING OR REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILBLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 35,000.