2010 Mazda Mazda6 Complaint Log

WHEN STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT VEHICLE WOULD BEGIN TO RAISE IN TEMPERATURE AND A/C WOULD SHUT OFF. THIS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES. BROUGHT VEHICLE TO DEALER AND WAS TOLD THEY COULDN'T DO ANYTHING UNLESS THEY SAW THE VEHICLE HAVE THE PROBLEM. *TR

THE DASHBOARD IS MELTING. IT IS STICKY TO THE TOUCH, HAS A CHEMICAL, RUBBERY SMELL, AND REFLECTS ONTO THE WINDSHIELD AFFECTING VISIBILITY. THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE. *TR

VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED AS PART OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 11V134000 ON 21 JULY 2011. HOWEVER, VEHICLE'S FUEL TANK CRACKED IN APRIL 2013 AND HAD TO BE REPLACED AT OWNER'S EXPENSE. AFTER SMELLING GASOLINE AFTER FILL UP AND NOTICING A PUDDLE OF GASOLINE IN DRIVEWAY IN APRIL 2013, OWNER HAD VEHICLE TOWED TO MAZDA DEALER FOR REPAIR. DEALER REPLACED TANK ON 15 APRIL 2013. OVER THE LAST YEAR AND SEVERAL ATTEMPTS, MAZDA HAS SINCE DECLINED TO REIMBURSE OWNER FOR REPAIR AND REPROGRAM ECU PER NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 14V114000. RECALL FROM JULY 2011 WAS SUPPOSED TO ELIMINATE THE POSSIBLY OF A CRACKED FUEL TANK, BUT IT DIDN'T. OWNER HAS PICTURES OF CRACKED TANK AND DEALER WORK ORDERS FROM JULY 2011 AND APRIL 2013 AND CAN PROVIDE IF NEEDED. OWNER WORRIED THAT IF THE ECU ISN'T REPROGRAMMED, THE TANK WILL CRACK AGAIN. *TR

JUST PURCHASED AN USED 2010 MAZDA 6 AND THE PASSENGER LOW-BEAM HEADLAMP IS "OUT" UNTIL YOU GIVE IT A NICE FRIENDLY TAP. THIS AT ONLY 29,300 MILES. WENT OUT AGAIN 9 DAYS LATER AND THE TAP IS NOT WORKING. WENT ONLINE AND FOUND THIS LINK WITH OTHER OWNERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. HTTP://WWW.YOUTUBE.COM/WATCH?V=UQQPERRESA8. *TR

MY CAR WAS PARKED, WENT INSIDE STORE FOR A MINUTE, CAME OUT AND IT WOULDN'T START. NO LIGHTS PRIOR, AND I TAKE METICULOUS CARE OF MY CAR. AFTER A FAILED JUMP, TOW WAS ISSUED. THE MECHANIC SAYS IT'S A STARTER FAILURE- AT 42,000 MILES ON A BRAND NEW FACTORY LINE CAR. NOW MAZDA WILL NOT RESPOND TO COMPLAINTS, AND ATTEMPTS AT REACHING ANY SUPERVISORS HAVE BEEN NEGATED. CAR HAS BEEN IMMOBILE FOR OVER TWO WEEKS. 42,000 IS A PREMATURE FAILURE FOR A BRAND NEW FACTORY PART- AND THE CAR COMPANY SHOULD PAY TO REPLACE A DEFECTIVE PORTION OF THE VEHICLE. *TR

THE ROTORS ARE WARPED AFTER LESS THEN 30K MILES. THIS CAUSES THE CAR TO SHIMMY WHEN BRAKING AT ANY APPRECIABLE SPEED (ANY SPEED OVER 40MPH). TOOK CAR TO DEALER AND THEY CLAIM IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE WARRANTY AS IT IS "NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR". CALLED MAZDA AND THEY TOO REFUSED TO FIX THE PROBLEM UNDER THE WARRANTY.

LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT AT 40,000 MILES AND HAVE BEEN REPLACED 2MORE TIMES. YESTERDAY, NO LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS AGAIN SO I GOOGLED PROBLEM. OVER 170 REPORTS ON ONE SITE OF SAME PROBLEM FOR VARIOUS MAZDA MODELS AND YEARS. INTERESTINGLY, THE VIDEO ON THE SITE SAYS IF YOU RAP THE OUTER HEADLIGHT CASING THE LIGHT COMES ON BUT MAY NOT STAY ON ONCE CAR IS SHUT OFF. THIS WORKED FOR VIRTUALLY EVERYONE ON THE SITE AND MYSELF. MAZDA MUST BE AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM BUT IS DOING NOTHING FOR CONSUMERS. ALSO THEIR ENGINEERING DESIGN MAKES REPLACING BULBS A $150 ADVENTURE AS THE AVERAGE PERSON CAN'T DO IT THEMSELVES. *TR

THE AIRBAG COVER STARTED OUT JUST BEING STICKY TO THE TOUCH. OVER THE LAST TWO YEARS IT HAD BEEN PROGRESSIVELY WORST TO THE POINT THAT IT IS EXTREMELY STICKY, SHINY, AND IF YOU TRY TO CLEAN THE WINDSHIELD FROM THE INSIDE THE PAPER STICKS TO THE DASH. I TRIED TO GET THE PAPER OFF, BUT PLUGS OF THE DASH COME OFF WHEN I DO. I JUST WANT MAZDA TO STOP DRAGGING THEIR FEET AND MANUFACTURER THE PARTS SO THAT THIS PROBLEM CAN BE RESOLVED. I DO NOT FEEL THAT THIS IS SAFE IF THE AIRBAGS WHERE TO BE DEPLOYED. MAZDA HAS SAID IF I WERE INVOLVED IN ANY ACCIDENT IT WOULD BE REPLACED. HOWEVER IT WOULD NOT BE THEM REPLACING IT, IT WOULD BE THE INSURANCE COMPANY PAYING THE COST.

BOTH REAR TIRE PRESSURE SENSORS FAILED DUE TO EITHER OVER-TIGHTENING OR CORROSION. BOTH SENSORS SNAPPED OFF RIGHT BELOW THE SENSOR STEM CAP CAUSING BOTH REAR TIRES TO DEFLATE. ON A NEWER CAR STILL UNDER WARRANTY, MAZDA CLAIMS SENSORS ARE ONLY COVERED UNTIL 36000 MILES. AND THEY'RE NOT CHEAP EITHER ($80 EACH, NOT INCLUDING INSTALLATION.) *TR

HEADLIGHTS GO OUT ON BOTH PASSENGER AND DRIVER SIDE FAR TOO OFTEN. SOMETIMES A THUMP TO THE LIGHT COVER OR BODY BY THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY WILL TURN THE LIGHT BACK ON. THE LIGHTS WILL EVENTUALLY BURN OUT FAR TOO OFTEN AS WELL. I HAVE REPLACED ABOUT 7 HEADLIGHTS SINCE BUYING NEW. IT IS DANGEROUS AS BOTH LIGHTS HAVE GONE OFF AT NIGHT WHILE DRIVING. LIGHT WILL GO OFF WHILE DRIVING AND SOMETIMES NOT TURN ON WHEN STARTED. THERE ARE EVEN YOU TUBE VIDEOS WITH PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FROM ABOUT A YEAR AFTER NEW PURCHASE.

BRAKE SENSOR MAKING NOISE AS IF THE BRAKES NEED TO BE REPLACED. VEHICLE HAS UNDER 10000 MILES. HAVE OWNED SEVERAL NEW VEHICLES AND HAVE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE THE BRAKES FOR A NEW VEHICLE AT THIS NUMBER OF MILEAGE. POSSIBLE DEFECT WITH MAZDAS BRAKING SYSTEM. *TR

THIS CONCERNS THE PLASTIC SAFETY BUMPER ON MY MAZDA AND PLASTIC BUMPERS IN GENERAL. MINE IS A SAFETY HAZARD AND IN DANGER OF BREAKING OFF. I BELIEVE IT TO BE A DEFECTIVE PRODUCT. I HAVE A MAZDA6 TOURING PLUS WHICH IS TEN MONTHS OLD, WITH LESS THAN 12,000 MILES. MY BUMPER BEGAN CRACKING TWO MONTHS AGO. THE RIP WENT FROM THE TOP OF THE BUMPER TO THE BOTTOM. IN TIME, THE RIP HAS EXPANDED TO A FOURTH OF A BUMPER. I AM USING SHIPPING TAPE TO HOLD IT IN PLACE. SHIPPING TAPE! THE BUMPER IS SO BRITTLE, IT'S USELESS AS A SAFETY BUMPER. I GET NO SATISFACTION FROM MY DEALER , RAMSEY MAZDA, RAMSEY N.J .OR FROM MAZDA HEADQUARTERS. THEY TELL ME THE CRACK MAY HAVE OCCURRED WHEN I WENT OVER A POTHOLE OR SAFETY BUMPER AND SUGGEST I ASK MY INSURANCE COMPANY TO PAY $1300 FOR THE REPLACEMENT COST. I BELIEVE THIS SHOULD BE COVERED BY WARRANTY. MORE IMPORTANT, BUMPERS OF THIS SORT SHOULD BE BANNED. THEY ARE A SAFETY HAZARD AND SHOULD BE REPLACED WITH A SOLID BUMPER OR BETTER QUALITY. I HAVE OWNED MANY CARS OVER THE YEARS AND I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF A BUMPER RIPPING OR FLAKING. UPDATED 07/05/11 *BF

I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AFTER LEAVING CLASS. AFTER BEING ON THE FREEWAY FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES, THE CAR STARTS TO POWER DOWN. ALL OF THE CAUTION LIGHTS START TO COME ON (IE: BATTERY LIGHT, TRACTION LIGHT, OIL LIGHT AND MANY OTHERS). AS I GET OFF THE FREEWAY, THE CAR STARTS TO LOSE MORE POWER, THE FUEL ACCELERATION DID NOT WORK AS WELL AND THE STEERING BECAME VERY HARD BECAUSE SOMETHING HAPPENED TO THE POWER STEERING FLUID. THEN AS I START TO PULL INTO A PARKING LOT THERE IS SMOKE COMING FROM BOTH SIDES OF THE CLOSED HOOD. I PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURN OFF THE ACCELERATION, AND POP THE HOOD AND I NOTICED IT IS ON FIRE. I RAN FROM CAR AND CALLED THE FIRE DEPARTMENT. AFTER ALL IS SAID AND DONE, THE CAR IS TOTALED. I AM NOT SURE WHAT COMPONENTS MALFUNCTIONED IN THE CAR WHICH INSURANCE IS DETERMINING AT THE MOMENT. THIS IS A MAZDA DEFECT!!!!!

I WOULD LIKE TO REPORT THIS ONGOING ISSUE WITH MY MAZDA 6 2010 MODEL. THE WAY MAZDA DESIGN SIDE MIRROR THAT'S VERY COMFY FOR SPIDER. OUR BOTH LEFT & RIGHT MIRROR HAS SPIDER WEB ALL THE TIME. WE NEED TO CLEAN THAT IN ALL SEASONS. THERE ARE MULTIPLE SAFETY RECALL FOR MAZDA 6 2010. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

MY 2010 MAZDA 6 WHICH HAS LESS THAN 10,000 MILES ON IT HAS BEEN REPORTED BY THE SERVICE CENTER THAT ALL 4 ROTORS ARE OUT OF ROUND AND NEED TO BE REPLACED. HOWEVER, THE BRAKES AND BRAKE PADS ARE FINE. THE WARRANTY WILL NOT COVER THE REPLACEMENT OF THE ROTORS. ANOTHER ISSUE IS WHEN I TURN THE STEERING WHEEL TO THE RIGHT THE HORN WILL RANDOMLY START BEEPING. THE SERVICE CENTER STATED IT DID NOT HAPPEN FOR THEM. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING 2 MPH AND ENTERING A RESIDENTIAL DRIVEWAY WHEN THE START/STOP BUTTON WAS INADVERTENTLY ENGAGED AND THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE START/STOP BUTTON WAS LOCATED BELOW THE AIR CONDITIONER BUTTON AND THE CONTACT BELIEVED THE LOCATION OF THE BUTTON WAS A SAFETY HAZARD. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 25,000.

TPMS VALVE BROKE WHEN CHECKING AIR PRESSURE IN THE TIRE. TIRE WENT FLAT AND TPMS HAD TO BE REPLACED. *TR

THE INNER TAIL LIGHT LENSES ON BOTH THE DRIVER & PASSENGER SIDE OF MY 2010 MAZDA 6 TOURING ARE PHYSICALLY MELTING AND BECOMING SEVERELY DEFORMED. THE OUTER, CLEAR LENSES ARE NOT DAMAGED AND THE MELTING IS ORIGINATING IN THE VICINITY OF THE BULBS. CAR HAS NOT BEEN ALTERED FROM THE MFG AND BULBS ARE MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED. CAR HAS 48,000 MILES ON IT AND BEYOND THE 36,000 MFG WARRANTY THEREFORE MAZDA WILL NOT REPLACE THEM FOR FREE. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SUPPLIER, DESIGN OR MANUFACTURING DEFECT THAT CAN POSSIBLY CAUSE A FIRE OR REDUCED BRAKE LIGHT VISIBILITY AND THIS PART SHOULD NOT MELT. I HAVE PICTURES AND CAN SEND THEM AS REFERENCE. A SEARCH OF THE INTERNET SHOWED A FEW OTHER INCIDENTS WITH DEFECTIVE MAZDA TAIL LIGHTS ON OTHER MODELS AND YEARS SIMILAR TO THIS. I AM UNCERTAIN HOW WIDE SPREAD THIS SITUATION IS. PICTURES RECEIVED. UPDATED 06/14/11 *TR

WHEN APPLYING FOOT TO THE BRAKES, THE PEDAL "COLLAPSE" TO THE FLOOR WITH LITTLE TO NO RESISTANCE. RELEASING THE BRAKE PEDAL AND QUICKLY PUMPING DOES REGAIN SOME RESISTANCE, BUT BRAKING IS AFFECTED. THE PROBLEM IS INTERMITTENT AND IS NOT TRIGGERED BY ANY SPECIFIC EVENT. *TR

WHEN I ENTER CAR AND ATTACH SEAT BELT, AT SOME POINT DURING STARTING OUT OR IN THE PROCESS OF GOING DOWN THE ROAD, THE SEAT WILL START LEANING BACKWARDS DUE TO THE SEATBELT BEING HOOKED AROUND THE LEVER TO TILT THE SEAT BACK. MY FEET NO LONGER REACH THE GAS OR BREAK PEDAL WHEN THIS HAPPENS. I HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH THAT IT HAS NOT BEEN THE CAUSE OF AN ACCIDENT SO FAR. IT HAPPENS AT ANY TIME AFTER STARTING OUT OR ANYTIME DURING DRIVING OR IN MOTION. SEEMS TO BE HAPPENING MORE OFTEN THE LONGER I HAVE HAD IT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA, MAZDA6. WHEN THE CONTACT STARTED THE IGNITION THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE AIR BAG OFF INDICATOR ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WHEN AN OCCUPANT WAS PRESENT IN THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT. THE FAILURE OCCURRED SPORADICALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHO STATED THE AIR BAG FUNCTIONED PROPERLY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE PROBLEM AND ASSURED THE CONTACT THAT THE VEHICLE MET THE SPECIFICATIONS AND REQUIREMENTS. THE APPROXIMATE MILEAGE WAS 300. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. UPDATED 07/26/11*LJ UPDATED 3/22/12 *CN

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE TRAVELING AT 20 MPH, THE REAR PASSENGER TIRE SPLIT. THE TIRES WERE EXAMINED 3,000 MILES AGO AND THE CONTACT WAS TOLD THAT THE VEHICLE WAS SAFE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS. THE DOT NUMBER WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 8,000.

LEASED NEW 2010 MAZDA 6 OCTOBER 2009. ABOUT 3 MONTHS LATER, I TURNED THE LUMBAR ADJUSTMENT KNOB, AND A LOUD POP HAPPENS AND THE KNOB STARTS FREEWHEELING. THE LUMBAR KNOB CONNECTION (SHAFT/WHATEVER IT IS) TO THE INTERNALS BROKE. MANY MONTHS LATER, I CALLED TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT AT THE SAME TIME AS A RECALL CAME OUT. MEDICAL CONDITIONS PREVENTED ME FROM KEEPING THAT APPOINTMENT, SO I CALLED AND CANCELED IT. SO TODAY, 10/07/11 I TOOK IT IN FOR THE RECALL AND THE BROKEN LUMBAR KNOB CONNECTION SO THAT PARTS COULD BE ORDERED TO FIX IT. TURNS OUT THERE WERE 2 OTHER RECALLS TOO, SO THAT WAS ADDED TO THE LIST. ABOUT 2 1/2 HOURS LATER, THE CAR IS BROUGHT UP. THE SERVICE ADVISER SAYS THAT THE TECH SEES THERE ARE AFTERMARKET SEAT COVERS ON THE SEATS, AND THEREFORE WHOEVER PUT THOSE ON, BROKE THE LUMBAR KNOB CONNECTION. (THE AFTERMARKET SEAT COVERS ARE ON THERE BECAUSE THE MATERIAL USED FOR THIS MODELS SEATS IS PRONE TO EXCESSIVE WEAR, AND SINCE THIS IS A LEASE, I DON'T WANT THAT.) I ADVISED THE SERVICE ADVISER AND SERVICE MANAGER THAT THE SEAT COVERS WERE JUST RECENTLY PUT ON, (LAST WEEK OF AUGUST 2011) AND IN NO WAY HAD ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE BROKEN LUMBAR KNOB CONNECTION. THE SERVICE ADVISER SAID THAT I WOULD HAVE TO BRING IT IN ANOTHER TIME FOR THE REGIONAL REP TO LOOK AT IT, TO DETERMINE IF IT WOULD BE FIXED OR NOT. I AGAIN ADVISED, THAT IT HAD ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH IT, AND BESIDES THAT, IT'S JUST NYLON FABRIC THAT'S PUT OVER THE SEAT CUSHIONS. AND THEY WERE NOT EVEN ON WHEN IT HAPPENED. THE SERVICE MANAGER SAID THAT'S THE ONLY WAY THAT THE DEALERSHIP CAN GET PAID FOR IT, IS IF THE REP SAYS SO. SO, THE SERVICE MANAGER, SERVICE WRITER, AND TECHNICIAN AT BOB MOORE MAZDA OKC ARE SAYING I'M LYING ABOUT HOW THE LUMBAR KNOB CONNECTION BROKE. ALSO, WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO ME, THE TECH HAD REINSTALLED THE SEAT BELT TWISTED. SHOWS THE QUALITY OF SERVICE THERE. *TR

THIS VEHICLE DOES NOT TRACK STRAIGHT, EVEN ON A LEVEL ROAD. AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS (ABOVE 50 MPH) IT HAS A DECIDED PULL TO THE LEFT, REGARDLESS OF THE LATERAL SLOPE OF THE ROAD. CONSTANT CLOCKWISE PRESSURE ON THE STEERING WHEEL IS NECESSARY IN ORDER TO KEEP VEHICLE FROM DRIFTING IN A LEFTWARD DIRECTION. IF DRIVER ATTENTION IS DIVERTED FOR ONLY AN INSTANT THE VEHICLE IS LIKELY TO PARTIALLY INTRUDE INTO THE LANE TO THE LEFT, WHICH ON AN UNDIVIDED HIGHWAY COULD BE AN ONCOMING TRAFFIC LANE (HENCE THE SAFETY ISSUE). I CALLED THIS TO THE ATTENTION OF MY MAZDA DEALER'S SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT LEAST TWICE WITHIN THE FIRST YEAR AFTER PURCHASE (JANUARY 2010). THEIR ANSWER WAS NO ANSWER--THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG MECHANICALLY AND THERE WERE NO BULLETINS FROM MAZDA ON THE SUBJECT. THEY VERIFIED THE ALIGNMENT AND ROTATED THE TIRES LEFT TO RIGHT, BUT NEITHER OF THESE SOLVED THE PROBLEM. NEARLY FIVE YEARS LATER THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS AND SEEMS EVEN MORE PRONOUNCED THAN IT WAS ORIGINALLY. A RECENT CHECK WITH THE DEALER INDICATED THAT THERE IS STILL NOTHING FROM MAZDA. POSSIBLY IT IS A DEFECT THAT APPLIES ONLY TO MY CAR AND NOT IN GENERAL TO THAT MODEL, BUT I HAVE NO WAY OF DETERMINING THAT AT THIS POINT. *TR