2010 Nissan Altima Complaint Log

MY 2010 ALTIMA HAS A PUSH START IGNITION LAST MONTH WHILE VISITING IN PA THE BRAKE LIGHT, VDC, AND SLIP LIGHT CAME ON AND REMAINS ON. WE STOPPED AND THEN THE CAR FAILED TO RESTART. WE WERE ABLE TO GET BACK HOME TO NY AND I TOOK IT TO MY LOCAL DEALER WHERE THEY RAN A DIAGNOSTIC TEST RESULT WAS A BAD BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. WHICH COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT FROM THE BRAKE TO THE PUSH START BUTTON TO ALLOW THE CAR TO START. I RESEARCHED ON LINE AND FOUND A FEW DIFFERENT FORUMS ONE BEING NISSANCLUB.COM WHERE I FOUND A NUMBER OF PPL WITH THE SAME ISSUE. I CONTACTED NISSAN CUSTOMER AFFAIRS AND GOT NOWHERE. I WAS WONDERING HOW MANY PPL WITH THE SAME ISSUE ARE NEEDED FOR AN ISSUE LIKE THIS TO BE CONSIDERED A RECALL BECAUSE WITH THAT BEING A DAMAGED PART THERE IS NO OTHER WAY TO START THE CAR. *TR

MY CAR WOULDN'T START WHEN I PUSHED THE PUSH BUTTON START AND PRESSED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. LATER THAT DAY THE CAR STARTED. I HAD IT CHECKED AND THE DEALER SAID IF IT HAPPENED AGAIN TO HAVE IT TOWED.YESTERDAY THE CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN WHEN I PRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL AND PUSHED THE START BUTTON. AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS TO GET THE BRAKE PEDAL TO START THE CAR, IT STARTED. IT IS GOING TO THE DEALER TO BE CHECKED. THE STARTING MECHANISM IS POOR AND UNRELIABLE. *TR

TL * THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO POWER ON HOWEVER THE INSTRUMENT PANEL ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE DIAGNOSIS WAS UNDETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 52,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

I PURCHASED A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA ABOUT THREE YEARS AGO. THE FIRST PROBLEM STARTED WITH THE CAR FAILING TO START. THAT PROBLEM STILL HAPPENS TO THIS DAY. THE NEXT PROBLEM IS MY CAR WILL NOT ACCELERATE AT TIMES. I HAVE HAD SEVERAL INCIDENT WHEN I AM AT A STOP LIGHT, INTERSECTION, OR REDLIGHT WHERE I APPLY THE GAS ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR AND THE CAR WILL NOT MOVE. I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE AND IT STILL WOULD NOT MOVE. AFTER WAITING ABOUT 20 SECOND AND APPLY THE GAS IT FINALLY GOES AND DRIVE NORMAL. ME AND MY KIDS WERE ALMOST IN A SERIOUS ACCIDENT WHEN THE CAR STALLED IN FRONT OF A BIG MACK TRUCK. NOW AFTER THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS, MY CAR SITS IN MY FRONT YARD UNABLE TO MOVE AT ALL AND NOW THERE'S A BURNING SMELL COMING FROM THE CAR. THESE CARS ARE A DEATH TRAP AND I REFUSE TO KEEP PUTTING MY LIFE AND MY CHILDREN LIVES IN DANGER. THE GOVERNMENT NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING!!! *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS AN EVENFLO CAR SEAT THAT WAS BEING USED IN A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CAR SEAT HARNESS AND LATCH BUCKLE WAS HARD TO OPEN. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE.

MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA HAS HAD DIFFICULTY STARTING. ALL THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WOULD COME ON BUT THE ENGINE WOULDN'T TURNOVER. AT FIRST I COULD GET IT TO START AFTER A FEW TRIES (I WOULD PUMP THE BRAKES, BANG ON THE STEERING WHEEL). THEN I NOTICED WHILE DRIVING THE VDS (TRACTION CONTROL), ABS AND PARKING BRAKE LIGHT WOULD REMAIN ILLUMINATED WHILE DRIVING. THIS MEANT THAT MY VDS WAS NOT FUNCTIONING. IT ALSO MEANT MY BRAKE LIGHTS WEREN'T FUNCTIONING WHILE I WAS DRIVING. ON 6 /01/2014 I TRIED STARTING MY CAR AND COULD NOT. I HAD IT TOWED TO MY AUTO REPAIR SHOP (MAPLE GROVE AUTO, MAPLE GROVE MN) WHERE THE TECHNICIAN INFORMED ME THAT IT REQUIRED A NEW BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, HARNESS AND BAND HOSES. HE TOLD ME THERE WAS A NISSAN SERVICE BULLETIN AS THIS WAS A "KNOWN ISSUE". SO MUCH SO THAT NISSAN HAD ACTUALLY DEVELOPED A MORE DEPENDABLE BRAKE SWITCH. THE SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER IS NTB10-139- WHICH WAS RELEASED ON NOVEMBER 23RD 2010. HE TOLD ME TO REPAIR IT WAS GOING TO COST OVER 500.00. THE FAULTY BRAKE SWITCH IS A SAFETY HAZARD AS IT CAUSES THE CAR TO THROW ERROR CODES WHICH DEACTIVATES THE TRACTION CONTROL AND ABS. WHY HAS THIS NOT BEEN A RECALL? WHY DOES IT COST $500 TO REPAIR A MALFUNCTIONING COMPONENT THAT SHORTLY AFTER THE CAR WAS RELEASED, THE MANUFACTURE ACKNOWLEDGED IT WAS FAULTY? WHY WOULD THE NHTSA WAIT UNTIL SOMEBODY DIES IN A CRASH CAUSED BY THE VDS AND ABS FEATURES NOT WORKING BEFORE THEY FORCE A RECALL/REPAIR OF THIS KNOWN ISSUE? *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH, THE ABS, VDC, AND SLIP INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. ALSO, THE BRAKES SEIZED AND FAILED TO ENGAGE. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE ABS SENSOR AND CALIPER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 48,000.

WHEN DRIVING DOOR COME UNLOCKED .. ONCE CAR IS PARKED AND LOCKED BOTH WINDOWS ARE COMING DOWN AND BOTH DOORS ARE UNLOCKED CAR WIDE OPEN EVERY HOUR OR SO ... I AM NOT PRESSING KEY FOB OR ANYTHING.. *TR

DURING A ROUTINE SERVICE I WAS TOLD THAT THE SHOCK ABSORBERS WERE IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT. SINCE THIS IS A CRITICAL PART OF THE CAR IN TERMS OF STABILITY AND SINCE THERE WAS ONLY 39000 MILES ON THE CAR I THOUGHT IT WAS LIKELY A FAULT IN MANUFACTURE. I AM A SENIOR CITIZEN AND ONLY DRIVE ON WELL PAVED ROADS AND HIGHWAYS. I DO NOT PULL A TRAILER OR THE LIKE. I CONTACTED NISSAN ABOUT THIS BUT THEY DECLINED TO TAKE ACTION. I AM CONCERNED THAT THIS MIGHT REPRESENT A SAFETY HAZARD FOR OTHERS WHO MAY NOT HAVE THIS DEFECT DISCOVERED. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 80 MPH, THE VEHICLE SHOOK VIOLENTLY AND ALL OF THE WARNING LAMPS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE BODY CONTROL MODULE WAS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE REMEDY FAILED TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 35,500.

I STARTED TO HEAR A RATTLING NOISE UNDER THE HOOD OF MY CAR. IT WAS FOUND TO BE THAT THE ALTERNATOR/CLUTCH WAS ABOUT TO GO OUT. I COULD ALSO HEAR IT WHEN DRIVING AND PRESSING MY FOOT ON THE GAS. THE RATTLING NOISE WAS PRESENT WHEN I WAS IN PARK OR REVERSE. *TR

I WAS IN AN ACCIDENT WHERE I WAS HIT AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND MY CAR SPUN OUT OF CONTROL. THE CAR WAS TRAVELING BACKWARDS WHEN IT WENT OFF THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY AND INTO A DITCH. WHEN THE REAR OF THE CAR ENTERED THE DITCH THE IMPACT WAS SIGNIFICANT AND MY DRIVER SIDE SEAT BACK WENT ALL THE WAY BACK. I FEEL THAT THIS IS A SIGNIFICANT DEFECT, BECAUSE THE SEAT BACK AND SEAT BELT SHOULD KEEP THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS AS STILL AS POSSIBLE. I DON'T BELIEVE THAT THE SEAT BACK COLLAPSING BACKWARDS IS INTENDED BY THE DESIGN. WHEN I WENT TO VIEW THE CAR AND RETRIEVE MY PERSONAL BELONGINGS, I TRIED TO BRING THE SEAT BACK TO THE UPRIGHT POSITION, BUT THE LEVER WAS BENT AND WAS NOT ABLE TO BE LIFTED IN ORDER TO BRING THE SEAT BACK UP. I TOOK PICTURES OF THE BENT LEVER AND THE POSITION OF THE SEAT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY TWO HOURS THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY FAILED TO ACCELERATE OVER 60 MPH AND THE RPM'S WOULD NOT INCREASE PAST 2000. THE CONTACT INDICATED THAT THE DEFECT RECURRED ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS AFTER DRIVING FOR MORE THAN TWO HOURS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR WAS THE VEHICLE REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 121,895.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING, THE VEHICLE DECELERATED AND STALLED. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO SHIFT THE VEHICLE INTO REVERSE. THE FAILURE RECURRED FOR TWO MONTHS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING; HOWEVER, THEY WERE UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WERE NOT AVAILABLE.

DEAR SIR OR MADAM --' MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA SUFFERS FROM THE SAME PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT ISSUES NISSAN ANNOUNCED TODAY, 3/26/2014, IN LATER MODELS (2013-2014). THIS SUGGESTS THAT THE FAILURE OF AIRBAGS TO DEPLOY ON NISSAN VEHICLES IS MORE WIDESPREAD--AND COVERS MANY MORE YEARS--THAN NISSAN HAS STATED. HTTP://WWW.USATODAY.COM/STORY/MONEY/CARS/2014/03/26/NISSAN-RECALL-AIR-BAGS-ALTIMA-SENTRA-LEAF/6902937/ THANK YOU. *TR

ON 02/25 I WAS T-BONED BY SOMEONE THAT RAN A RED LIGHT WHO WAS GOING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH AND HIT THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR/QUARTER PANEL AND I WAS WONDERING WHY IT IS THAT MY SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY? FROM MY UNDERSTANDING, IN A COLLISION WITH THAT KIND OF SPEED AND THE PLACEMENT OF THE IMPACT, THE AIRBAG SHOULD HAVE DEPLOYED BUT IT DID NOT. WHILE THE CAR WAS BEING REPAIRED, I ASKED THE BODY SHOP TO CHECK INTO WHY IT DID NOT, AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THE FIRING PIN FOR THE AIRBAG, WAS SMASHED TO PIECES. WHICH FURTHER TELLS ME THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH MY CAR TO MAKE THE AIRBAG NOT DEPLOY. I AM JUST GRATEFUL THAT MY PASSENGER AND MYSELF WERE BOTH UNINJURED FROM THE INCIDENT BESIDES A SLIGHT CASE OF WHIPLASH. EVERYONE INCLUDING THE POLICE OFFICERS THAT ARRIVED ON SCENE AND THE BODY SHOP WERE AMAZED THAT NO ONE WAS INJURED ESPECIALLY SINCE THERE WAS NO AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT TO HELP PROTECT HER. *JS

MOST OF THE 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA CARS DO HAVE A PUSH BUTTON FOR THE IGNITION TO START. IN ORDER TO START THE CAR'S ENGINE, THE DRIVER WOULD NEED TO LIGHTLY PRESS THE BRAKES BEFORE PRESSING THE BUTTON. I PURCHASED THE BRAND-NEW CAR BACK IN SEPTEMBER 2010 AND I AM STILL THE ONLY OWNER. IN FEBRUARY 2014 WITH APPROXIMATELY 38,000 MILES, THE IGNITION STARTED TO STOP WORKING. AFTER A FEW STRUGGLES, THE IGNITION BUTTON WOULD FINALLY ALLOW ME TO START THE ENGINE. THEN THE PROBLEM GRADUALLY GOT WORSE. I NOTICED THAT THE BRAKES WOULD SUCK IN SO HARD THAT I WOULD BE UNABLE TO "PRESS" THE BRAKES ANYMORE IN ORDER FOR THE IGNITION BUTTON TO "ENABLE" SO I CAN START THE ENGINE. AT ONE POINT LAST WEEK, THE CAR REFUSED TO START BECAUSE OF THE BRAKES AND I WAS UNABLE TO DO ANYTHING BUT TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL AND PUSH THE CAR BACK AND FORTH IN THE MIDDLE OF A MCDONALD'S DRIVE-THRU ROUTE IN BALTIMORE, MD. MY ROOMMATE HAD TO TAKE LEAVE IN ORDER TO COME AND HELP ME OUT. AFTER 2 HOURS OF STRUGGLING, WE WERE ABLE TO GET THE "BRAKES LIGHT" ON AND THE IGNITION WOULD FINALLY BECOME ENABLED AND WE WERE ABLE TO START THE ENGINE. WE DROVE STRAIGHT TO THE NISSAN DEALERSHIP IN BOWIE, MD AND TOLD THEM WHAT HAPPENED. NISSAN ABOUT THIS AND THEY ACKNOWLEDGED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AMONG MANY DRIVERS AND THAT THE "BRAKE SWITCH" IS CAUSING IT. AT THE END, MY WARRANTY COMPANY HAD TO PAY MORE THAN $800 AND I HAD TO PAY ALMOST $300 OUT OF MY POCKET JUST FOR THIS ISSUE. I RESEARCHED ONLINE AND SAW SO MANY DRIVERS ARE COMPLAINING THE SAME THING AND THAT NISSAN IS REFUSING TO ISSUE A RECALL FOR THIS BECAUSE THEY KNEW IT IS A "COMMON PROBLEM" THAT THEY COULD MAKE A PROFIT OUT OF THE REPAIRS CHARGES. MANY DRIVERS HAD TO PAY APPROXIMATELY $1,000 JUST FOR THIS "COMMON ISSUE" AND I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE SURE THAT NHTSA & DOT ARE AWARE OF THIS ONGOING ISSUE. THANK YOU. *TR

THE DASHBOARD IS MELTING, SOFT TO THE TOUCH, EASILY DAMAGED. FIRST NOTICED WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO REMOVE THE TRIM AROUND THE RADIO TO REPLACE IT BECAUSE THE DISPLAY IN UNREADABLE WHEN IT'S HOT. WHEN I DID SO, THE DASHBOARD SEEMED STICKY AND STARTED BREAKING APART WHILE TRYING TO PRY OFF THE TRIM. I PURCHASED SPECIFIC TOOLS FOR REMOVING TRIM WITHOUT DAMAGE BUT THE DASH IS STILL TOO SOFT AND STICKY. SO TO REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE RADIO THAT NISSAN SAYS IS NOT COVERED IN THE WARRANTY I WOULD DESTROY THE DASH CAUSING A REPLACEMENT OF THOUSANDS. ALSO, I'M AFRAID THAT THE PLASTIC IS SO SOFT AND STICKY THAT IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT, WOULD THE AIR BAGS DEPLOY PROPERLY. *TR

AS APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT, BRAKES WERE DIFFICULT TO "GRAB" AND TOO EXTRA PRESSURE. STOP WAS RATHER SLOW, AND ANTI-LOCK BRAKES APPEARED TO KICK IN (BY ROUGH, STACCATO SHAKING TYPICAL OF THEM APPLYING). ONLY BY PRESSING DOWN AS HARD AS I COULD DID I PREVENT SMASHING INTO THE CAR AHEAD OF ME. DRY, SUNNY FLORIDA CONDITIONS, NO SAND OR SLIPPING AT ALL, JUST SLOW, ODD BRAKING. THEN THE ENGINE SEEMED TO BE REVVING A BIT - FASTER IDLING THAN NORMAL WHILE AT THE STOP LIGHT. WE ARE NOT TALKING ABOUT SPEEDING HERE, OR SUDDEN BRAKING, JUST A NORMAL APPROACH TO A KNOWN STOP SIGN OR LIGHT. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. THIS HAPPENED A COUPLE TIMES, THEN DID NOT REPEAT FOR A COUPLE MONTHS. THEN, WHEN IT DID REPEAT, I ASKED THE DEALER ABOUT IT. ALWAYS AT A STOP LIGHT OR STOP SIGN, ALWAYS IN DANGER OF SMASHING INTO THE CAR AHEAD OF ME OR ENTERING TOO FAR INTO THE INTERSECTION IF I COULD NOT CONTROL THE STOP. THEY WERE COMPLETELY PUZZLED, AND COULD NOT DUPLICATE IT BECAUSE, AS I SAID, IT IS VERY SPORADIC. AN ISPECTION DID NOT REVEAL ANYTHING. THEY LAUGHED AT ME, SAYING IT WAS TOTALLY IMPOSSIBLE FOR THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKES TO KICK IN IF THERE IS NO SKIDDING. OK, SO WHAT WAS IT THEN? IT SURE AS HECK SEEMED LIKE ANTI-LOCK BRAKES! (I COME FROM UP NORTH AND HAVE EXPERIENCED ANTI-LOCK BRAKES KICKING IN ON SNOW COVERED ROADS...) SINCE THE INITIAL REOCCURRENCE, IT WENT SEVERAL MONTHS, ABOUT SIX, WITH NO ISSUES OR REPEATS, THEN JUST THE OTHER DAY, IT DID IT AGAIN TWICE MORE. I SUSPECT IT COULD BE SOMETHING TO DO WITH COMPUTER CONTROLS, RATHER THAN THE BRAKES THEMSELVES, BUT I AM NO MECHANIC.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE INTERMITTENTLY FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED ABOUT THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 82,000. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

DOOR WILL CLOSE PROPERLY DUE TO FAILED DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE BOTTOM OF THE VEHICLE WOULD SCRAPE THE TOP OF ANY SPEED BUMP. THE FAILURE OCCURRED CONSTANTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE STRUT INSULATOR FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 09V358000 (SUSPENSION). THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 75,000.

WE HAVE HAD MANY PROBLEMS WITH OUR CARS CVT TRANSMISSION SINCE IT WAS PURCHASED NEW IN 2010. THE TRANSMISSION, WITHOUT ANY INDICATION, GOES INTO A SAFE MODE WHICH CAUSES THE CAR TO LOOSE ACCELERATION. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO US SEVERAL TIMES,USUALLY AFTER LONG TRIPS (70 MILES OR MORE) AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. IT HAS ALSO HAPPENED IN PARKING LOTS OR JUST STOPPING TO MAKE A TURN. THE CAR HAS BEEN TO THE NISSAN DEALER 2-TIMES AND BOTH TIMES THEY REMOVED OIL,CLAIMING THE EXCESS OIL CAUSED THE TRANSMISSION TO OVERHEAT WHICH PUT IT INTO THE SAFE MODE. ON DEC. 31,2013 WE WERE ON A RETURN TRIP OF 70 MILES OR SO WHEN WE EXITED THE FREEWAY. WE CAME TO A STOP AT A TRAFFIC SIGNAL AND UPON TRYING TO ACCELERATE,THE TRANSMISSION ONCE AGAIN WENT IN THE SAFE MODE,HINDERING OUR ABILITY TO ACCELERATE ACROSS THE INTERSECTION. WE SLOWLY DROVE THE SHORT DISTANCE HOME PARKING THE CAR. IN THE PAST,WE PARKED THE CAR ALLOWING IT TO COOL SO IT WOULD "RESET" BUT THIS TIME THE CAR REMAINED IN THE SAFE MODE THE NEXT DAY. WE HAD IT TOWED TO NISSAN. NISSAN CLAIMS THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND OUR CAR IS READY FOR PICKUP. THIS TRANSMISSION FAILS WITHOUT WARNING AND UPON DOING SO MAKES IT ACCELERATE VERY,VERY SLOWLY WHICH PUTS US IN GRAVE DANGER. I WILL NOT PUT MY GRAND KIDS IN THIS DEATH TRAP NOR DOES MY WIFE WANT TO DRIVE IT. I HAVE SEEN THE MANY,MANY INTERNET COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME CVT PROBLEM. IF I OR MY WIFE GET KILLED TRYING TO CROSS AN INTERSECTION WHEN THIS FAILURE OCCURS,THIS WILL BE THE REASON WHY. WHEN I PICK UP OUR CAR JAN 6TH,2014,I PLAN TO DRIVE IT TO THE TOYOTA DEALER TO SEEK A TRADE IN ON A CAMRY. THIS NISSAN IS GOING TO GET PEOPLE KILLED. *TR

AFTER, DRIVING FOR ABOUT 2HRS, TRAFFIC CAME TO A COMPLETE STOP AND WAS STOP AND GO FOR AN HOUR. ONCE TRAFFIC FINALLY WENT BACK TO NORMAL, MY CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE, THE GAS PEDAL WAS PRESSED ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR, BUT WOULD NOT PICK UP SPEED. I GOT OFF ON THE NEAREST EXIT, PULLED INTO A VACANT LOT TO LET THE CAR COOL DOWN,5MINUTES LATER THE CAR WAS BACK TO NORMAL. *TR

I NEED TO DRIVE FROM MD TO GA EVERY COUPLE OF MONTH. I NOTICED THAT IF I DRIVE MY CAR CONTINUOUSLY FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS (ABOUT 3 OR 4 HOURS), THE CAR WON'T ACCELERATE FROM A STOP FOR AT LEAST COUPLE OF SECONDS. I HAVE FLOORED THE GAS PEDAL, BUT THE ENGINE WAS LIKE 2000 RPM. THE CAR BARELY MOVES. IT THEN BECOME NORMAL AFTER ABOUT 3 SECONDS. BECAUSE OF THIS, I WAS ALMOST INVOLVED IN ACCIDENTS SEVERAL TIMES WHEN I WAS TRYING TO PULL FROM A TRAFFIC LIGHT. I WENT TO A NISSAN DEALER TO CHECK WHAT IS THE PROBLEM. BUT THE DEALER (NORRIS NISSAN WEST NEAR BALTIMORE) TOLD ME THEY COULD NOT REPEAT THE PROBLEM SO THEY WILL NOT DO ANYTHING. I THOUGHT THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS FOR DRIVERS LIKE ME AND THE DEALER'S ACTION IS IRRESPONSIBLE AND UNACCEPTABLE. NOW I AM AFRAID OF DRIVING MY CAR FOR RELATIVELY LONG TRIPS NOW. *TR

WITH THE FRONT WINDSHIELD DEFROSTER ON AND OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE NEAR 32 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT, THE FRONT WINDSHIELD SUDDENLY DEVELOPED A CRACK ON ITS OWN THAT SUBSEQUENTLY INCREASED IN SIZE TO ABOUT 12 INCHES LONG. *TR

THE CAR SEEMS TO BE SENDING A SIGNAL TO "SHIFT" EVEN THOUGH I AM GOING A STEADY SPEED AND THERE IS NO NEED TO SHIFT. THIS CREATES A "JERKING" MOTION. I'VE NOTICED THIS PROBLEM OCCURRING CONSISTENTLY AT 60 MPH BUT ALSO AT 65, 70, AND 75 MPH. SOMETIMES EVEN AT 45 MPH. THE MORE "WARMED UP" THE CAR IS, THE STRONGER THE JERKING MOTION AND THE MORE FREQUENTLY THIS ISSUE OCCURS. *TR

A RECALL NEEDS TO BE MADE FOR 2010 MODELS ON THE ALTIMA DUE TO MELTING DASHES, EVERYTHING GETS STUCK IF SOMETHING IS PLACED ON THE DASH. PLEASE REPLACE DASHES!

WHEN YOU TRY TO START VEHICLE YOU PUSH ON BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DOESN'T GO DOWN 1/16 OF AN INCH. THE BRAKE LIGHTS WONT EVEN COME ON. IF YOU PUSH THE START BUTTON IT WILL ONLY GO TO THE ACCESSORY THEN OFF. WHEN I ASKED SERVICE MANAGER AT NELSON NISSAN IN BROKEN ARROW, OK AND I QUOTE "HE SAID YOU HAD TO HAVE KEY ON BEFORE BRAKE LIGHTS WOULD COME ON"... I AM LIKE REALLY!!! THE BRAKE LIGHTS UMM NO THEY SHOULD COME ON ANYTIME YOU PUSH THE BRAKE IF THE KEY IS ON OR NOT. PLEASE HELP US AMERICAN'S AND OTHER HARD WORKING TAX PAYING PEOPLE GET OUR CARS FIXED. WE PAID GOOD HARD EARNED MONEY FOR THEM AND NOW ALL WE HAVE IN A LEMON IN ARE GARAGE. THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOU TIME, GOD BLESS YOU! AND GOD BLESS AMERICA!!! *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PASSENGER'S SIDE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE PASSENGER'S SIDE SEAT CUSHION WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 21,000.

NISSAN ALTIMA SEDAN 2010 SL (LEATHER) WITH CVT TRANSMISSION; AFTER DRIVING WITH THE AC ON DURING HEAT WAVE I NOTICED WATER ON DRIVER/PASSENGER FLOOR DRIPPING FROM THE CENTER CONSOLE. I RARELY USE THE AC RATHER HAVE THE WINDOWS OPEN. AFTER RESEARCH ONLINE (THIS SITE AS WELL WITH ANOTHER COMPLAINT) AND BRING TO A NISSAN DEALER THEY INDICATED THE AC (CONDENSATION) DRIP PAN DRAIN/TUBE MAY BE CLOGGED OR THE SUNROOF DRAINS MAY BE CLOGGED. THEY INDICATED THAT THE CABIN AIR FILTER MAY HAVE DEPOSITED DEBRIS AND DIRT INTO THE AC PAN CAUSING IT TO CLOG... NISSAN NEEDS TO FIX THIS PROBLEM OR SEAL THE PAN NEXT TO THE CABIN FILTER SO NOTHING CAN BE TRANSFERRED OR MOVED TO THE FILTER/AREA TO THE NEARBY DRAINS. I PREVIOUSLY HAD THE CABIN FILTER REPLACED BY A REPAIR CENTER SPRING 2013. *TR

2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE AUTOMATIC PUSH-TO-START IGNITION WOULD NOT OPERATE WHEN ENGAGED. CHECKED BATTERY GOOD, FUSES GOOD. *TR

RUNNING TO ABOUT 60 OR 62 MPH MY VEHICLE DECELERATED REPEATEDLY AT THE HIGHWAY,I WAS PUSHING THE PEDAL BUT NOTHING HAPPENED,I HAD TO EXIT TO THE SHOULDER AND TURN IT OFF AND WAIT FOR A ABOUT TEN MIN. AFTER THAT I TURN ON THE ENGINE AND COULD CONTINUE MY WAY NORMALLY,NEVER PASS AGAIN BUT ITS WEIR BECAUSE ITS RELATIVE A NEW CAR. *TR

IF I HAVE TO PUMP THE BRAKES TO GET THE CAR STARTED, WILL I SOON HAVE TO PUMP THE BRAKES TO STOP?????? VEHICLE NOT RECOGNIZE THE KEY. HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES PRIOR TO 6/15/2013. JUST THOUGHT THE KEY NEEDED TO BE CHARGED. BUT ON THIS DATE I PULL UP AT A HOTEL, CHECKED IN AND WENT TO MOVE THE CAR AND IT WOULDN'T START. SAT FOR AN HOUR OR TWO. REPLACED BATTERY A FEW WEEKS PRIOR SO IT WASN'T THAT. HAD TO BE TOWED TO A PEPBOYS. TOO LATE FOR A DEALERSHIP, A SATURDAY EVENING, AND I WAS OVER 5 HOURS FROM HOME. THE CAR WAS DROPPED OFF ACROSS FROM THE BAYS THEREFORE THEY WERE UNABLE TO CONNECT THE DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. AFTER SETTING FOR A COUPLE MORE HOURS IT FINALLY CRANK. THEY SAID IT WAS THE STARTER, AS OF TODAY I HAVE NOT REPLACED THE STARTER. IN AUGUST IT DID IT AGAIN TWICE WHILE MY 16 YR WAS DRIVING IT TO SCHOOL. A COUPLE OF TIMES IN SEPTEMBER. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER ON 10/14/2013, THEIR DIAGNOSIS WERE: REPLACE BRAKE SW, SUB HARNESS, AND TIE STRAPS. AND NOW ALMOST ON A DAILY BASIS WANT START WITHOUT PUMPING THE BRAKES. I'M THE ONLY ONE THAT DRIVES THE CAR NOW BECAUSE I'M AFRAID OF THE BRAKES EVENTUALLY GIVING OUT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE WINDOWS FAILED AND WOULD INDEPENDENTLY OPEN. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER TO HAVE A DIAGNOSTIC PERFORMED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 34,210. RETURNED BY USPS ON 6/4/2013. 2ND ATTEMPT ON 6/11/2013 FAILED. *KB

PASSENGER AIR BAG OFF LIGHT INDICATES INOPERATIVE PASSENGER AIR BAG WHEN ADULT PASSENGER IS SEATED. APPARENT SPORADIC OPERATION OF AIR BAG. SERIOUS SAFTEY HAZARD! WHY HAS THIS NOT BEEN ADDRESSED? AIR BAG SENSOR INDICATES SOMETIMES IT IS OPERATING PROPERLY, AND OTHER TIMES DANGEROUSLY INOPERATIVE. AND IT IS NOT A WEIGHT ISSUE. I ONCE HAD THE LIGHT TURN OFF (MEANING THE AIR BAG WAS ENGAGED TO OPERATE IN A CRASH) BASED ONLY ON THE WEIGHT OF MY BRIEFCASE (HOLDING A LAPTOP) ON THE SEAT! SO IT IS CLEARLY A SENSOR ISSUE. LIGHT ALSO GOES ON OR OFF SEEMINGLY AT WILL. WHILE DRIVING, IT SOMETIMES CHANGES SEVERAL TIMES (ON VS. OFF) DURING A TRIP. STARTED AROUND 22,000 MILES IN ABOUT 2013, AND STILL ERRATIC AT 32,000 MILES IN 2015 (LOW MILEAGE CAR) BASED ON A REVIEW OF PAST COMPLAINTS, THIS HAS BEEN A KNOWN, UNADDRESSED PROBLEM OF THIS MODEL SINCE 2010, AND COMPRISES WHAT APPEARS TO BE A WHOPPING PERCENTAGE OF ALL COMPLAINTS ON THIS VEHICLE! REFERENCE NHTSA NUMBERS 10705119, 10693858, 10621721, 10551401, 10538101, 10508652, 10462938, 10398851, 10386702 TO DATE. DEALER SAID SENSOR IS IN SEAT, AND ENTIRE SEAT WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED TO FIX. REALLY? COST ABOUT $1,000, SO I NOW KNOW WHAT A LIFE IS WORTH TO NISSAN - LESS THAN $1,000, RIGHT? MAYBE A LAWSUIT WOULD HELP, BUT THEY KNOW PROVING THE AIR BAG SENSOR IS DEFECTIVE IS DIFFICULT AND EXPENSIVE FOR THE AVERAGE CONSUMER. KISS YOUR LOVED ONES BEFORE DRIVING WITH THE "PASSENGER AIR BAG OFF" WARNING LIGHT LIT! WHY THE NHTSA AND NISSAN REFUSE TO ACKNOWLEDGE THIS WELL ESTABLISHED, AND HIGHLY RISKY DEFECT IS TRULY BEYOND ME. CONSIDER A DIFFERENT VEHICLE UNTIL THIS PROBLEM IS FINALLY ADDRESSED, IF EVER.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AUTOMATIC PUSH-TO-START IGNITION WOULD NOT OPERATE WHEN ENGAGED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 48,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 49,000. *TR

2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VEHICLE TIRE FAILURE. *SMD ON JUNE 12, 2012, THE CONSUMER HAD FOUR NEW MICHELIN TIRES INSTALLED ON THE VEHICLE. HOWEVER, AROUND MARCH 2013, HE NOTICED THE TIRES WERE CRACKING AND SPLITTING . AT THE TIME, THE TIRES ONLY HAD 5500 MILES OF WEAR ON THEM. THE CONSUMER RETURNED TO THE RETAILER, WHERE THE TIRES WERE PURCHASED AND THEY ORDERED NEW TIRES. SEVERAL WEEKS LATER, THE CONSUMER NOTICED THE NEW TIRES WERE CRACKING AGAIN. THE CONSUMER RETURNED TO THE RETAILER AGAIN, AND THEY WERE REPLACED. THE CONSUMER RETURNED TO THE RETAILER AGAIN ON MAY 30, 2013, BECAUSE THE REPLACEMENT TIRES WERE ALSO CRACKING AND SPLITTING. THE RETAILER INFORMED THE CONSUMER, THERE WAS NOTHING ELSE THEY COULD, AND ADVISED HIM TO CONTACT MICHELIN. WHEN THE CONSUMER CONTACTED MICHELIN, HE WAS INFORMED THERE WAS A SIX YEAR DEFECT WITH THE TIRES AND ADVISED THE CONSUMER TO TAKE THE VEHICLE AND TIRES TO A MICHELIN REPRESENTATIVE. THE CONSUMER WAS GIVEN TWO PLACES TO GO AND A REFERENCE NUMBER. MICHELIN AGREED TO PAY 60% OF THE COST TOWARD NEW TIRES.

I WAS DRIVING ABOUT 40 MPH AND THE CAR JUST STARTED SLOWLY DOWN EVEN THOUGH I WAS PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR.THE GAS PEDAL WAS NOT RESPONDING. THE CAR WOULD NOT PICK UP SPEED AND I THOUGHT THE HEADLIGHTS WHERE DIMMING OUT BUT I'M NOT COMPLETELY SURE. I WAS PANICKING BECAUSE OTHER VEHICLES WERE BEHIND ME. I PUT ON MY HAZARD LIGHTS. I WAS ABLE TO PULL TO THE SHOULDER OF THE RODE. I PLACED THE CAR IN PARK FOR A FEW MINUTES AND THEN TRIED TO DRIVE AGAIN. THE CAR PICKED UP SPEED AFTER THAT. VERY SCARY ON A DARK RODE AT NIGHT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THE VEHICLE SHOOK VIOLENTLY. AFTER INSPECTING THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT REALIZED THAT THE DRIVER REAR WHEEL WAS BENT. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE SUSPENSION ROD FRACTURED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 39,000. UPDATED 03/12/13*LJ THE DEALER INFORMED THE CONSUMER, SHE MUST HAVE HIT SOMETHING EXTREMELY LARGE, AS THE WELDING HAD COMPLETELY SNAPPED. UPDATED 03/13/13

THE DASHBOARD MATERIAL IS MELTING. THERE IS A GLARE ON THE WINDSHIELD NOW MAKING IT HARDER TO SEE. NISSAN REFUSED TO FIX IT. *TR

THERE IS A LOUD NOISE. I HAVE HEARD SAME NOISE FROM OTHER ALTIMA'S. I SEE THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THE A CRACK IN THE STRUTS FOR THIS MODEL. I FEEL IT SHOULD BE FIXED BY THE MANUFACTURE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. AFTER THE PUSH TO START BUTTON WAS INSTALLED, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT RESTART AFTER BEING DRIVEN AFTER APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VDS, SLIP, AND BRAKE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL IN ORDER TO START THE VEHICLE, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO DEPRESS. THE FAILURE OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER AND THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE BRAKE SWITCH WAS DEFECTIVE, WHICH PREVENTED THE VEHICLE FROM STARTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

ON SUNDAY, 12/16/12 EVENING AROUND 11:15PM, I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM OUT OF TOWN AND HAD TO PULL OVER FOR GAS ABOUT 45 MILES AWAY FROM THE HOUSE. I TURNED OFF THE VEHICLE AND FILLED UP THE GAS AND THE CAR WOULD NOT START ONCE WE WERE READY TO LEAVE. THE ABS AND FLIP LIGHTS WOULD BLINK AND THE BATTERY WOULD POWER UP BUT THE CAR ON THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION WOULD NOT RESPOND WHICH WOULD START THE CAR, I CALLED THE TOWING COMPANY AND I WAS CHARGED $173 FOR TOWING TO THE DEALER AS THE MECHANIC WAS NOT ABLE TO START THE VEHICLE EITHER. THE FOLLOWING MORNING, I RECEIVED A CALL FROM THE DEALER STATING THE BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH WHICH WHEN PRESSED WITH THE KEY FOB IN THE VEHICLE ALLOWS THE CAR TO BE STARTED WHEN PRESSING THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION SWITCH; THAT SWITCH ATTACHED TO THE BRAKE HARNESS HAD GONE BAD AND I WAS GIVEN A COST OF $232.64 TO REPLACE THIS SWITCH. THE DEALER STATED THAT HE WAS SHOWING IN HIS SYSTEM THAT THIS SWITCH WAS REDESIGNED RECENTLY AND THE NEW REDESIGNED SWITCH WHICH WOULD INCLUDE REPLACING THE BRAKE PEDAL HARNESS ALSO WOULD COST ME A TOTAL OF $531.17 AND HE STATED THAT HE RECOMMENDS THE NEW REDESIGNED SWITCH OVER THE LESSER EXPENSIVE SAME TYPE OF SWITCH THAT WENT BAD WHICH WOULD BE AT RISK OF GOING BAD AGAIN SOON. I ESCALATED THE ISSUE TO NISSAN CONSUMER AFFAIRS AT 1-800-NISSAN-1, CASE #10255931. I REQUESTED THEM TO COVER THE EXPENSE AS I HAD EXCEEDED THE MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY ONLY BY 3000 MILES AND HAD BOUGHT THE CAR BRAND NEW IN MAY, 2010. THEY RESEARCHED THE MATTER AND DECLINED TO COVER THE EXPENSE DUE TO A PREVIOUS BRAKE ROTOR ISSUE I HAD ESCALATED TO THEM 3 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING THE VEHICLE WHICH WAS A SEPARATE ISSUE. I HOPE NO ONE ELSE IS STRANDED AS WE WERE WITH MY WIFE, MY TWIN 3 YEAR OLD BOYS, AND MYSELF AT 11:30PM AT NIGHT FAR AWAY DUE TO A BLOWN OUT SWITCH WHICH HAS NOW BEEN REDESIGNED, I AM ASKING THAT A RECALL ON THIS BE OPENED UP. *TR

I BOUGHT THE 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA USED IN APRIL 2012. VEHICLE WAS PREVIOUSLY PART OF A FLEET UNIT IN WASHINGTON DC. DURING MY DRIVE TO WORK, I MADE A LEFT HAND TURN AT A LOW RATE OF SPEED AND THE VEHICLE ACTED AS IF THE TRANSMISSION WAS SKIPPING. THE CAR JERKED AS IF I HAD PUSHED THE GAS TOO HARD FOR THE TURN. I HAD TO STOP TO MAKE ANOTHER LEFT HAND TURN. AFTER WAITING ON CARS TO PASS, I PUSHED THE ACCELERATOR TO MOVE OUT AT A SLOW AND NORMAL RATE OF SPEED AND THE CAR LUNGED AND JERKED AS IF I HAD TRIED TO PULL OUT AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED. NO ONCOMING TRAFFIC THANKFULLY. THIS VEHICLE HAS HAD ISSUES MOVING PAST 20 MPH SINCE I PURCHASED IT. THE CAR JERKS AS IT IS HAS A MANUAL TRANSMISSION BUT THE CARE IS AN AUTOMATIC. THERE IS LOUD CLICKING NOISE THAT COMES FROM UNDER THE HOOD THAT CAN BE HEARD INSIDE THE VEHICLE. I RECENTLY HAD A RENTAL CAR OF THE SAME MAKE AND MODEL BUT DIFFERENT YEAR (2012). I DID NOT EXPERIENCE THESE PROBLEMS FROM THAT CAR. THERE WAS A RECALL ON A LEAKING BREAK LINE. NISSAN STATES THEY CHECKED EVERYTHING OUT AND ALL LOOKS GOOD. I'LL TAKE THE CAR BACK IN ALONG WITH COPIES OF THESE COMPLAINTS. I TOOK AT LONG TRIP THAT WAS ABOUT A 4 HR DRIVE AND DID NOT EXPERIENCE WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING WITH ACCELERATION, BUT MAY BE JUST NOW GETTING TO THAT POINT IN THE CARS TRANSMISSION ISSUES. *TR

I NOTICED WARNING LIGHTS ON DASH WERE GOING ON FOR BRAKES BUT BRAKES WERE WORKING.BROUGHT TO NISSAN DEALER FOR CHECK. I WAS TOLD MASTER CYLINDER WAS LEAKING INTO BOOSTER AND THAT IT HAD TO BE CHANGED .COST $483...AT 49000 MILES THIS SEEMED TO BE TOO SOON FOR THAT KIND OF PROBLEM. DEALER KNEW ABOUT IT AT WRITEUP IN SERVICE DRIVE THROUGH., BUT SAID IT WAS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. *TR

VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. ORIGINAL BATTERY WENT DEAD IN 2012, ADDITIONAL BATTERIES INSTALLED IN 2013, 2014, 2015 BY THE DEALER AND TOWED TO THE DEALER. AAA INSTALLED BATTERIES IN 2016 AND MAY OF 2018., I DID NOT GO BACK TO THE DEALER. DEALER TOLD ME FIRST TIME WAS DUE TO THE WEATHER, THEN THEY TOLD ME I WAS NOT PUTTING ENOUGH MILES ON MY CAR, THEY INSTALLED A LARGER BATTERY AND THIS ONE ALSO WENT DEAD. I DID TELL THE DEALER THIS WAS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME BECAUSE MOST OF THE TIME I TRAVEL ALONE BOTH IN-STATE AND OUT-OF STATE, IF MEMORY SERVES ME CORRECTLY THIS IS WHEN THE DEALER INSTALLED A LARGER BATTERY AND THIS ONE ALSO WENT DEAD. DIAGNOSTIC TESTING BY THE DEALER AND MECHANIC SHOWED NOTHING BUT SOMETHING ELECTRICAL IS CAUSING SO MANY BATTERIES TO GO DEAD..I ALSO TOLD NISSAN USA THIS WAS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME. NISSAN USA TOLD ME THERE WERE NO RECALLS WHICH I ALREADY KNEW AND THEY WOULD NOT DO A BUYBACK OR REPAIR. BECAUSE OUT OF WARRANTY, THIS THEY HAD OFFERED TO CHECK INTO FOR ME, PLUS THE DEALER NEVER OFFERED THIS TO ME AFTER REPLACING SO MANY BATTERIES. ALL I HAVE FOR BACKUP ARE MY RECEIPTS WHICH I DIDN'T ATTACH, IF NEEDED PLEASE LET ME KNOW. MECHANIC DID TELL ME IF BATTERY GOES DEAD AGAIN TO GIVE HIM A CALL AND HE WOULD COME TO TRY AND SEE IF HE COULD FIND WHAT WAS THE CAUSE IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THIS DIDN'T HAPPEN BECAUSE BATTERY WENT DEAD ON A SATURDAY AND FOUND OUT WHEN I CALLED MONDAY HE ALSO GOT MARRIED OVER THIS WEEKEND AND WAS ON HIS HONEYMOON, BUT MONDAY THEY HAD MY CAR FOR 3 DAYS. I AM THANKFUL SO FAR MY CAR AND NOT GONE DEAD WHEN DRIVING. THANK YOU.

Batteries continue to go dead, have had at least 8 batteries since 2012. Nissan started charging me for batteries got too be expensive & told them this is a huge concern because I travel alone & if I get stranded this is unsafe for me. Gave me all kinds of excuses as to why batteries are going dead. Again, my car is in the driveway with a dead battery. Thank goodness I wasn't travelling, stopped at a rest area & came out to a dead battery. I have to pull my backup for the mileage reference first time I had a dead battery. I can't upload any information because of not enough memory, but I do have all backup.

THE LACK OF LIGHTING INDICATOR MAKES THAT CAR VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE AT DUSK & DAWN TIMES. THE DASH BOARD IS SLIGHTLY LESS LIT WHEN THE LIGHTS ARE ON. THE DRIVER WOULD NOT KNOW WHETHER THE BOARD LIGHT IS IN THE "MORE" OR THE "LESS" STATUS. UNLIKE IN OLDER CARS, THE DASH BOARD IS NOT DARK WHEN THE LIGHT IS NOT ON SO THAT THE DRIVER IS ALERTED. THIS IS A MAJOR HUMAN FACTOR DEFECT. IT IS THE CAUSE OF COLLISIONS AT TIMES OF RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC. I AM A PROFESSIONAL ENGINEER WITH UTMOST QUALIFICATIONS IN HUMAN RELIABILITY ANALYSES(HRA). FOR A PERIOD OF 9 YEARS, I WAS THE ELECTED CHAIRMAN OF A LARGE INTERNATIONAL GROUP OF HRA ENGINEERS RESPONSIBLE FOR MINIMIZING HUMAN ERRORS AT NUCLEAR POWER PLANTS. OUR CAR WAS TOTALED. MY WIFE HAD 4 BROKEN RIBS. I HAD SEVERAL INJURIES. *TR

THE OTHER DRIVER MADE AN ILLEGAL LEFT TURN CAUSING THE ACCIDENT. THE SEAT BELTS WERE BUCKLED AND THE 2 FRONT AIR BAGS ACTIVATED. I AM A MECHANICAL ENGINEER, I TRIED VERY HARD TO UNCOVER THE SOURCE OF SHRAPNEL INJURIES ON MY KNEES, ON MY HEAD, AND ON MY NECK. ALSO, MY WIFE RECEIVED SEVERAL SHRAPNEL INJURIES ON HER HEAD AND ON HER BODY. RECENTLY, I REALIZED THAT THESE SHRAPNEL INJURIES WERE CAUSED BY EXPLODING PLASTIC CASINGS AROUND THE SEAT BELTS. THE OTHER DRIVER WAS MINIMALLY INSURED. WITHOUT ANY LAW SUIT, WE GOT A SMALL PARTIAL COMPENSATION FOR THESE INJURIES. THE EXPLODING SEAT BELT BOXES WERE NOT INITIALLY THOUGHT OF. NOW, I FIRMLY BELIEVE THAT MY WIFE AND I WERE SERIOUSLY HARMED BY SHRAPNEL FROM THESE EXPLODING PLASTIC COVERS...UPDATED 11/17/14 *BF *TF UPDATED 8/31/2017*CN