2015 Tesla Model S Complaint Log

This issue involves critical safety systems, including the rearview camera, front camera, and Autopilot/driver assistance features. The vehicle was taken to Tesla for a recall related to the MCU system. Tesla marked the recall as completed, but no effective repair was performed. The rearview camera remains unavailable, the front camera system is not functioning properly, and driver assistance features continue to be disabled. Tesla returned the vehicle without resolving the safety issue. This condition poses a serious safety risk, as essential visibility and safety systems are not operational despite a completed recall.

The outside passenger front door handle stopped working and no longer allows the door to be opened from the outside. The handle does present and retract but does not respond when you pull it. This handle has been replaced once before by Tesla. Now, when the vehicle goes from being locked to unlocked the passenger front door pops open without any user interaction whatsoever.

Tesla Model S has a notorious back hatch latching failure. It’s a flawed design that every replacement is a “when” and not “if for failure. As an owner its failed be about 4-5 times in 5+ years of ownership. The hatch back latching issue causes cruise control as well as their Autopilot steering navigation feature to be disabled when latch starts acting up or failing to fully close, which are helpful safety components to keep your car on the road going at proper speeds and staying in lane. Reporting this in hopes someone pushes Tesla to do something about this flaw that should be a manufacturers defect.

The contact owns a 2015 Tesla Model S. The contact stated while driving 40 MPH at night, one of the headlights became inoperable. The contact stated that both headlights had become intermittently inoperable, causing the contact to hesitate to drive the vehicle due to safety concerns. Upon investigating the issue online, the contact learned that several other vehicle owners were experiencing similar failures. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.

My 2015 Tesla Model S has a serious safety issue where the vehicle suddenly reverts to Park while driving and will not stay in Drive. I had the car serviced at Tesla’s Austin Ridgepoint location, and they documented that the issue was “resolved” and “validated,” but the problem continues exactly the same. Tesla replaced the rear motor speed sensor, performed tests, and charged me $522 for the repair. However, the vehicle still cannot stay in Drive and remains unsafe to operate. After I reported that the repair did not fix the issue, Tesla deleted the entire service appointment and technician notes from my account, removing documentation of the failed repair. This is a critical safety defect involving unexpected shifting behavior and high-voltage component concerns. Tesla has not resolved the issue and has removed evidence of the repair attempt from my service history. I am requesting NHTSA assistance so Tesla properly addresses this safety hazard.

I had been driving in the rain and the battery got wet. This was found to be due to corroded umbrella valves which allowed water to get in. The car had not been submerged or in deep water, simple driving on the interstate. The car gave me a warning "Service is required-car may not restart." I started out for the service center and the car failed after 65 miles. I thankfully was in a safe place when it happened. I had to be towed from Portland, Maine to Londonderry, NH for service. The umbrella valves were replaced at my cost $1,871.12). The umbrella valve problem is occurring on many models and Tesla is repairing them on the newer models, free of charge. They are not calling it a recall (it's a Service Notice) but I think I should be reimbursed for the repair since they should repair this potentially dangerous problem on all models, not just newer models.

My 2015 tesla model with less than 55000 mi had the front suspension broke on [XXX] when i pull out of the driveway. I heard a hard noise from passenger front tire that is scraping on the fender liner.The car was not drivable and had to be towed to a tesla dealership in cherry hill NJ > Quoted bill is $1800 to replace. With the low mileage , I never expected the suspension to brake unless there is a defect on the cars manufacturer front suspension fore link. I read on the NSHTSA that there was an investigation for the several complain for the 2015 - 2017 tesla model S . The service car representative took a picture of the broken suspension fore link that is holding the suspension front tires. I forgot to ask him to forward the picture to me.Maybe I can ask him when I pick up the car. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

An investigation has been conducted into a persistent and widespread defect affecting the 2015 Tesla Model S and other early models equipped with the first-generation Media Control Unit (MCU1). This defect manifests as the physical degradation and spontaneous leakage of a sticky adhesive substance from the edges of the vehicle's central infotainment screen and instrument cluster. The leaking substance is not merely a cosmetic issue but presents a credible safety risk to vehicle occupants and the vehicle itself. The substance is a source of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), a class of chemicals with a low boiling point that are known to off-gas into the ambient air, a problem exacerbated by high temperatures. Exposure to these compounds can lead to both acute and long-term health consequences, including respiratory irritation, headaches, and in some cases, serious chronic illnesses. Furthermore, the presence of flammable solvents and components within the adhesive, combined with the heat generated by the electronic components of the MCU1, creates a potential fire risk. This report is submitted to the NHTSA to provide a detailed, technical analysis of the adhesive degradation and leakage in the 2015 Tesla Model S. The purpose is to formally document this specific defect as a safety issue that warrants regulatory action, separate from but related to the manufacturer's previous recall for the MCU1's eMMC memory wear. It is essential to demonstrate that the adhesive failure is not a cosmetic inconvenience but a distinct material failure with serious implications for occupant health and vehicle safety. This report aims to provide the necessary evidence and analysis to support a formal investigation and a comprehensive recall that fully addresses this physical defect.

was driving Tesla when warning light appeared “ charging declined “ . drove car home battery no longer charging . Tesla stopped working after only 68,000 miles . Tesla wanted $15000 to replace the battery more than the car is worth.

A few times the steering control has shut off while I am driving. Steering failure lasts a few seconds and then returns to normal function. The car makes a VERY loud alarm sound when the steering is inoperable. I have not seen any failure messages on the screen or in the Service menu. I took the car to Tesla for service yesterday. They did some sort of remote scan of the fault codes and told me that there is nothing wrong. They told me to continue to drive the car and record when the steering stops working again. This sounds like ridiculously bad advice to me. While the steering control has always returned in just a few seconds, that does not mean that it will in any future failure. I am concerned about driving this car. Tesla wants $275 an hour to investigate the problem, which also seems ridiculous to me. I have seen that there has been a recall for similar problems in newer Tesla Model S vehicles. It seems logical to me that these problems may be related and deserve additional investigation ... at Tesla's expense.

Many air bubbles are appearing towards the bottom of the instrument panel on our 2015 Tesla Model S. This started a couple of weeks ago and the bubbles are increasing in size and number and they are moving upwards. The bubbles don’t presently obscure important driver information such as the transmission mode (drive, park, reverse, neutral), remaining battery range (e.g. 80%), car speed (mph), parking sensor distance, brake light status, car door open, frunk open, tailgate open, time, outdoor temperature, car lights on/off, warning lights, etc. However, the bubbles likely will do so in the future. Much of this information is vital for safe driving (e.g. transmission mode, speed (mph), remaining battery range, brake light status, and warning lights). As such this display should be replaced by Tesla at nominal or no charge to the owner. According to the internet, the cause of these air bubbles is a failed seal around the instrument cluster that allows a lamination fluid between the LCD display and the cover glass to leak out. It is a very common problem with older Model S’s. It is a critical safety problem.

Steering: While driving today (7/5/2025), all of a sudden and without warning, "driver assist" (power steering) became disabled. Steering wheel immediately became heavy in the sense that it was extremely difficult to turn. Motor: Also, on 02/22/2024, while driving on the freeway at freeway speed, all of a sudden and without warning, the rear LDU (large drive unit) failed and the car became inoperable. At that time, the car had approximately 45k miles on it.

Electric power steering stopped working unexpectedly and making it very difficult to steer and drive safely.

Hi, my trunk won't open when I press the button. This is the second occurrence that jas happend. When inside the trunk compartment the emergency cable to open the trunk is also not responsive and can not open the trunk. I think this is a big safety concern as the safety cord is there for a reason and in both cases id did not worked.

What happened? While driving my 2015 Tesla Model S, the main touchscreen (MCU) began intermittently going black, disabling access to essential vehicle controls, navigation, climate settings, and rear-view camera display. At times when the MCU was functioning, the rear-view camera feed would still display a black screen upon shifting into Reverse, leaving me without any rear visibility. Component or system that failed: Media Control Unit (MCU1) / eMMC memory failure Rear-view camera and/or associated wiring harness Safety risk: The intermittent blackouts of the MCU and loss of rear camera feed created significant safety hazards, especially when reversing or attempting to adjust driving settings while in motion. The loss of rear visibility increased the risk of collision with pedestrians, cyclists, or obstacles. The MCU failure also limited access to defrost/defog controls and turn signal audio feedback. Problem reproduction and confirmation: Tesla Service has confirmed both the MCU1 hardware failure and the rear-view camera malfunction. The problems occurred repeatedly before being inspected. Inspection: The vehicle has been inspected by Tesla Service Center technicians, who diagnosed both the failing MCU1 and the defective rear-view camera. Warning messages or symptoms prior to failure: For MCU: slow system performance, frozen screen, then intermittent complete blackouts while driving. For rear-view camera: black or distorted camera feed when in Reverse, even when the MCU display was otherwise operational. These issues began occurring in June 2025 and became progressively worse until Tesla inspection on July 6, 2025.

I parked my 2015 Tesla Model S and found the rear door on the passenger side would not open from the outside even though the door handle was extended. This is a safety concern as we could not open the door to remove our pet dog from the car. It would also not be possible to open the door from the outside to remove a child in a car seat next to the door or an elderly or disabled person sitting next to the door who is unable to open the door from the inside. This could be life threatening in the case of a car crash. It is a major safety defect that should be repaired at no cost by Tesla for the entire lifespan of the car. The problem persists and is reproducible.

While driving and mid-turn, 2 alerts were announced (park assist not available; steer assist reduced) and I immediately lost the ability to turn the steering wheel (it was 100% stiff) mid turn and was almost t-boned by a vehicle in on-coming traffic. I was able to make the turn widely and pull car to the side while blocking the only lane of traffic. I had ZERO warning and ZERO ability to turn the wheel even into a simple driveway. There was a parking lot near and I couldn't turn the wheel just to turn into it. This almost caused a huge accident which I could have been killed in. Luckily my children were not in the car. If the car can just stop working with no warning, it is not safe to drive in my opinion.

While driving approximately 45mph on a smooth dry road, the drivers side front lower ball joint broke in half. This caused the wheel to separate from the lower control arm and get lodged between the fender well and the front subframe. This caused the inner tie rod to bend and the cv joint to separate from the inner connection. The rubber brake line was torn in half and undercarriage damage due to it slamming to the pavement. I notified Tesla and scheduled an appointment. This happened on 02/26/2025 at approximately 7am. The vehicle did not drive abnormal or give any warning before the incident. All maintenance and services were up to date.

Large drive unit that has previously been replaced by Tesla failed due to coolant ingress leaking through rotor seal. Known issue per 3rd party technicians.

Safety concern related to the tail lights and trunk lid lights on a tesla model s. I have had to replace both right and left turn lights and the trunk brake lights on multiple occasions due to water intrusion into the light housings. Water seepage over time or after heavy rains starts shorting the LEDs, thus causing safety concerns due to non-functioning tail lights. The vehicle has not been in an accident. It was purchased from a tesla "dealership" and they stated that there were no accidents. The car history report also indicates that the car has not been in an accident. There has been one attempted repair which added two drains to the trunk lid but the repair did not remedied the seepage into the light housing. There are reports online relating to water seepage into the light housings so its not just my car.

The car veered suddenly to the left (out of the left lane of a highway) while supervised in auto steer. The driver could not move the steering wheel to avoid a collision with the guardrail as the steering wheel had locked up. The collision warning didn’t sound and emergency brakes did not activate upon impact. The airbags were deployed and the car was totaled.

Failure part was drivers side front wheel "Fore Link Assembly" which broke at the wheel connection on our driveway while turning left in reverse. I heard a loud thunk but hadn't run over anything and nothing irregular outside so I continued but now I could hear something scrapping. Turns out it was the front tire now rubbing the wheel well liner when turning left. pulled the tire off and you could easily see where the fore link fractured. Fortunately this part didn't fail on the road as the outcome might have been bad considering the possible loss of control. Our car, 1985 purchased new with 68,450 miles was towed via required flatbed to a Tesla Service Center and repaired. I have all replaced parts including the fractured section that fell on our driveway. Outside of the repair personnel and myself no one has looked at the part but you can clearly see what used to be a circular opening was elongated and ,about a 90 degree section, missing.

Issue is with the rear hatch (trunk) latching mechanism. The rear trunk latch has partially disengaged but will not completely release and open the trunk. This is a safety concern because the emergency release inside of the trunk (pull cable) does not fully release the trunk either. If a child or person were to be in the trunk they could not escape either from inside the trunk (emergency latch) or externally (unable to close or open physically or with electronic release).

Backing out of a parking spot, my car made a loud "thunk" and stopped. I put the car in park and got out, looking all around and under the car. I did not see anything. I backed out of the spot and circled the lot to see if there was anything in the parking spot I may have run over. Nothing. When exiting the parking lot, the car made the same "thunk" and again ground to a halt. I again exited the car and looked all around. This time, I could see that the front driver's side tire was not in the correct position. It was shifted toward the back of the wheel well. I knew something had physically broken. I had the car towed to a service center. They checked the car and said a suspension fore link had broken. They recommended replacing all of them, not just the one that broke. They blamed the age of the car (95,000 miles). I was incredibly lucky that this occurred in a parking lot given that the vehicle came to an immediate stop. There were no prior warning signs. The car last had a scheduled inspection at 87,500 miles.

Drove out of my driveway and 2 minutes later I hear a metal clink and my steering wheel pulled to the left. I was going 15-20 mph. Pull over and see the right rear wheel angled inwards. And see a metal piece broke off. Turns out the rear control arm broke for no apparent reason. Many others reported same issue and there was a recall on this for 2013-2014 SB-19-31-001 [XXX] but not years going forward even though many of the newer Tesla’s have same issue. Luckily I was going g slow but it seems it is just a matter of time before this happens to someone on the highway or at faster speeds to cause some serious damage and injuries. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The universal joint that connects the steering to the wheels is exposed to the elements and causes the steering to be difficult and/or stop working.

In 6 years the drive unit has failed and been replaced. Multiple other tesla owners report similar issue. I have a Tesla S 2015. The car will not drive or will abruptly stop driving when the drive unit fails. First incident I was driving on 55mph road and abruptly stopped. Second incident I cannot recall. Third incident tesla provided no support and the car was experiencing multiple driving failures which would turn back on to allow the car to only drive 2-7mph. Tesla reports they know it is a problem with the coolant leaking through the seals which kills the motor. If this is a KNOWN issue, why are these models still allowed on the road? This has me TERRIFIED knowing that a tesla can go from 55mph to abruptly stop when the drive unit dies. It happened to me! Now that I know it happens with others AND tesla is aware, it makes me question why there is no recall to fix it.

Ive been notified that my front upper, lower arms, and bushings on my suspension are damaged. Tesla has sent me an massive bill to replace the parts on the car that I am not able to provide. As a looked up and talked to other Tesla S owners, this apparently is a major issues with all of them and very common. So common that China issued a recall requiring Tesla to fix this manufacture defect of wreaked and poorly manufacture parts. Why is the US not forcing this yet? They should be held liable for their fault mechanic engineer of the vehicle that is costing us THOUSANDS of dollars to repair and replace even at very low mileage Invoice attached. This was the cost AFTER they gave me discount for replacing a part I did not authorize. This was an issue with the dealership still.

The component that Tesla has stated is the part that is failing is the MCU (Media Control Unit) which was a recalled part at one point but then Tesla decided to replace only a single part of the MCU which was the eMMC (embedded MultiMedia Card). Luckily the vehicle was not driving when it completely shut down and would not start back up but I was stuck in a restaurants drive-thru for roughly 4 hours till I could get a tow truck to come tow it. The tow truck had to put the car on dollies as the vehicle would not enter tow mode nor would it enter its emergency neutral mode so the vehicle could be moved. The windows would not go up or down and luckily the trunk was able to open because if not then I would have been stuck outside my vehicle as the door handles did not come out after I got out of it and closed the door behind me. Please read the messages from the tech as you will see that they tried to act as if they did not know what was going on with my vehicle but then i asked something else and they stated exactly what the issue was but supposedly could not confirm it was that unless they charged me a diagnosis fee and "got hands on" which I'm sure that info of what was wrong with my vehicle was nothing they needed to get their hands on. There were no warning lamps or messages UNTIL the vehicle shut off on me in the drive-thru and then the warnings started to populate staying that the vehicle was off, vehicle could not detect brake being pressed, and that the vehicle was not detecting the key. The repair estimate is no longer available in my app for some reason, probably because I did not repair the vehicle as they were wanting me to upgrade to the new MCU that is in the current vehicles and it would have been roughly $2,400.00. Just today, the vehicle would not start, would not move my seat or anything to its memorized position when I got in the vehicle and the screen was frozen, just as it did when the original recall happened of the MCU/eMMC, photo/videoattached.

The MCU that controls the climate and Advanced Driver Assistance Systems stops working while driving. I sent a service request to TESLA and they replied that my older MCU1 is failing because of the new software updates. It isn't the eMMC card hardware failure, but the symptoms and safety concerns are the same. None of the controls work, as the main screen goes blank and resets while driving. TESLA told me the fix for this problem is to upgrade to MCU2, which they fail to provide for free as a safety recall. There was already a recall for the MCU memory chip failing and causing the same safety concern. The car disables the Advanced Driver Assistance Systems when this problem occurs. It happens about once or twice a month for the last year.

This incident happened on March 18, 2024 at approximately 4:20 pm central time. My daughter pulled out of the school parking lot after school. As soon as she pulled on to the main road she noticed a warning light pop up saying hood latch not detected. About one minute later the hood flew open very aggressively hitting the windshield and blocking her view. Tesla vehicles are equipped with a second safety latch that should prevent this hood from popping up. My daughter was blinded by the hood and could not see while in traffic. Thankfully, she was able to avoid running into another vehicle, object or off the road. I took the vehicle into Tesla on March 23, 2024 which was the first available appointment I was able to get. They inspected the vehicle and said they were not responsible for the hood flying open. I tried explaining to them the part that failed was the part that was apart of a recall in 2022 (the hoods 2nd safety latch). They told me my issue was different because they checked my latch in January 2022 and it was fine. They said my latch failed do to normal wear and tear. It just gave out. They charged me $235 for inspecting my hood. Since that day I have been trying to contact Tesla's corporate office to get them to repair my vehicle and refund my $235 but I have not had any luck. I am the original owner of this vehicle. I have had nothing but problems with this car from the moment I purchased the $100k vehicle. The company had to replaced the touch screen twice, the high voltage battery once, both headlights were replace. The car was in the shop several times for the leaking sunroof. Finally, the warranty ran on the car and the sunroof still to this day does not open. I went to the shop after the warranty expired and they were happy to tell me the car is not covered and it would cost $1300 to repair the sunroof after they had been patching it up with black tape. There are several reports of Tesla owners having this issue and Tesla need to step up.

The window will not go down either due to software, electrical or hardware issues. The window motors have gone out had have had to be replaced. Likely, another motor has failed. In the 2015 Model S in order to open the door the window must lower an inch or more to clear the door frame. When the window will not lower due to software, electrical or hardware issues, the door is difficult to open and may crack/break the window. The is a safety issue getting into and out of the vehicle. The most recent issue is dated below. There have been other issues previously.

The vehicle was involved in an accident due to a failure of the autopilot system. There was a recall letter sent out of 23V-838 a month prior, but changes either did not persist or was the primary cause of the accident.

This is the 3rd time a control arm on the car has cracked. I see tons of people online complaining about the same issue with the fault aluminum control arms. I have no damage and no rust and it just cracked on its on as i was backing out of a parking spot. I could have been seriously injured or my daughter had this happened on the highway. My dad is an issurance adjuster for 30 years and has never heard of any cars control arms cracking on their own. Please help as this is a huge safety issue and it seems Tesla has been putting the blame on the drivers. There was a grinding noise in reverse and the wheel was tilted inward. Multiple control arms have cracked in the car. A car that has no damage or accidents. This car is less than 10 years old and this doesn't happen with any other cars. It's a fault control arm part made out of cheap aluminum.

I'm writing following several months of an "Unresponsive Screen" issue in my car. I initially thought this was a symptom of cold weather but learned it was related to "corrupt files" after a visit to the local Tesla service center. A full detailed description of the issue video of the issue can be found in the description portion of this link: [XXX] . I was told the issue was resolved following a three-day visit to the service center from [XXX]. Unfortunately, I've continued to encounter the problem. There are obviously many concerns regarding safety and the inability to utilize all of the car's functions (e.g. headlights, child safety features, indoor lighting, etc.). Perhaps the greatest concern is the fact that I have to do a soft reset in order to restore functionality and the soft function can be performed while the vehicle is operating. The following video is a demonstration: [XXX] I was reassured there is nothing wrong with my hardware and that everything seems to be related to the "corrupt files" in the vehicle's software. Thanks in advance. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Unknown

My car has intermittently given me the alert “steering assist decreased.” When this occurs, the wheel is a little stiff at street speed but drivable, but at very low speed, to park, for example, the wheel becomes nearly impossible to turn. It usually occurs when the car is already in motion. When the alert is not on, the steering is fine. It does seem to be happening more frequently since it first started about a month and a half ago. A Tesla technician looked at it today and stated the steering rack would have to be replaced as the power steering is what is impacted. I understand you already have an investigation ongoing into this problem.

I was involved in a significant vehicle crash with my Tesla Model S, the vehicle wa a complete write-off and was towed away. I was taken via ambulance unconscious from my injuries. The vehicle was struck by a perpendicular vehicle who ran a stop sign and hit the front driver's side firewall/door area. The impact was hard enough to drive my car sideways against all wheels into the curb, over the curb, onto the sidewalk, and into a pole. My head hit the drivers window hard enough to break the glass and render me unconscious. No airbags deployed, curtain/seat/otherwise - no side impact airbags even. Seatbelt was worn, I was extracted by first responders - I later spoke with Tesla regarding my complaint of no air bag protection, and was told they would take this seriously and investigate. I later found out the car was auctioned off (presumably for scrap) with no evidence of Tesla even attempting an investigation and zero response indicating otherwise. After reaching out again to Tesla seeking a response, they assured me that they have GPS coordinates, Police Reports, asked for pictures (which I did send), and they promised to respond - that was more than 5 months ago and still no answers.

Tesla front right hand lower forward link failed at the ball joint (aluminum casting spilt open) Part #1041575-00-A, FRT FORE AWD LCA RH, Made in Canada. This happened while backing up on flat pavement without warning. The car has been well cared for, garaged, never damaged or abused and has less than 52K miles. It could have caused a life threatening accident if it would have happened at speed.

There have been 7 incidents with my car where the door handles for both front doors (left and right) handles stopped working. The door handles would not "present" or "extend" and thus making it impossible for entry into the car. The latest incident occured on 1/13/2024 where the front driver side door would just pop open anytime any other door was opened. This is while the car was still in operation and the drive would then have to manually close the door. The door handles have malfunctioned on the following dates - January 2019, April 2019, July 2019, April 2022, June 2023, January 13, 2024.

The front trunk flew open without any warning and smashed the front windshield. We could not see. We never received any info on recalls.

The contact owns a 2015 Tesla Model S. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the limited steering warning light illuminated, and the power steering was inoperable. The contact was able to take the next exit to find a safe location on the side of the roadway. The contact reset the computer and the power steering became operable. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and the vehicle was being inspected. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

This is an updated video related to an issue I previously reported. I’m becoming increasingly concerned by the idea that Tesla’s recommended remediation is to replace the car’s MCU. However, the MCU in my car was upgraded to a newer version in July 2021. There are serious safety concerns with the need to perform a “soft reset” while the vehicle is operational (as seen in the video). Please feel free to reach out with any additional questions. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact owns a 2015 Tesla Model S. The contact stated that while he, his wife, and his son were in the vehicle he had begun veering right pulling into the driveway, at approximately 5 MPH, he had begun slightly releasing the brakes when the vehicle suddenly accelerated at accelerated high speeds. The contact immediately depressed the brake pedal however the vehicle speed continued to accelerate. As a response, the contact attempted to maneuver the vehicle to avoid crashing into the garage. The contact crashed into a nearby tree, jumped the curb, and became airborne crashing into the side of the home. The driver's side of the vehicle crashed into the side of the home where the laundry room was located ricocheting hitting the kitchen and bedroom windows and eventually coming to a stop. Due to the home being on a slope, the vehicle ended up falling into a nearby embankment after coming to a stop. All air bags deployed. The vehicle was towed. The contact was informed by insurance the vehicle would more than likely be totaled however this had not been confirmed. A police report was filed. The contact received emotional distress, cuts, and bruising to their hands. arms and forehead. The contact also suffered from back pain. The contact's wife sat in the rear on the driver's side and received emotional distress, trouble breathing, bruising on their face, and bleeding in the mouth. Their wife also received neck, back, and head pain. The contact stated that their wife ended up falling to the floor of the vehicle as a result of the crash. The contact's son sat in the rear on the passenger's side and received emotional distress, and back and neck pain. All persons received medical attention on-site, such as cleaning the wounds and icing any bruising. They were advised to seek additional care, however, have not been able to do so as of yet. The crash caused damage to the wall and flooring structures, electricity, and water systems in the home. The vehicle had not been taken to the dealer. The cause of the failure had n

The high voltage junction box in my Tesla Model S reported issues. Took my car to Tesla service center in Charlotte NC in November. Its now been 3 months and my car has yet to be repaired by Tesla. They claimed would be repaired within 2 weeks and have arbitrarily been bumping the repair date out nonstop every few weeks to now being 3 months delayed. My understanding is that Tesla used parts from a company no longer making this part and they have no solution. This is crazy I have been without my car this long by them.

While driving on the freeway, I thought I heard a rattling from the sunroof, and so I cracked the sunroof to 12% open, and then closed it again. The moment the sunroof closed, smoke with an electrical burn smell began billowing in through the air vents in the front of the car. We immediately opened the car windows to allow fresh air and exited the highway. Smoke continued to pour into the cabin while I pulled the car to the side of the road in a residential neighborhood. The car was parked within ~2 minutes of the smoke initiating. During this time, there were no warnings or hazards that I noticed on the dashboard. My family grabbed their immediate belongings and got out of the car, while I turned on the hazard lights, and also then exited the vehicle, popping the trunk of the car and the frunk to allow smoke to dissipate. The smoke didn’t seem to decrease after pulling to the side, nor opening and venting the car. After being at the side of the road for probably 1-2 minutes, a visible fire sprung up at the intersection of the hood/front windshield at which point I called 911. The fire quickly spread to consume the hood and cabin of the vehicle. Multiple explosions from the vehicle were seen and heard, sounding like gunshots at times, drawing many concerned neighbors from their homes. By the time the first responders arrived, the front of the car and cabin were largely consumed down to the metal framework, and the trunk had fallen shut and was also on-fire.

The hood (frunk) lid disengaged while driving at highway speed and obstructed the windshield. I had to make an emergency exit. The car did not indicate that the latch was released and it did not slow as the manufacturer claims will occur with this problem. I was not notified of the known recall for this defect. As of now, Tesla collision is not taking responsibility and sent me to a third party for repair of the hood.

Driving my car and it completely gives out in the middle of traffic without any warning or alter almost causing an accident. When asked about the absence of alert they said I may or may not get one and I should be lucky it just cut off (randomly in traffic mind you) because if it didn’t it would’ve burst into flames. Being the Rear Drive Unit is the second most important part of the vehicle an alert should be given 100% of the time as no alert could cause injury to myself or other drivers. This means there are other Tesla drivers out there with a probable chance of their randomly car stopping without any control of the vehicle endangering lives. This oddly happens 60 days outside my 8 year warranty when I haven’t any issues at all and receive alerts for everything down to my fob key being low on battery. In addition the whole time they were just trying to convince to get a new one because they just happen to be running a limited time promo that I can transfer my free supercharging to a new vehicle if I purchased. A lot of people have reported (down to the day) of their car dying suddenly after warranty but no avail Tesla says they won’t goodwill repair my vehicle although I could’ve died or been seriously injured.

Front passenger door randomly opens on it's own. Usually vehicle is parked but has happened at low speeds (under 30 mph). Advised it's the door handle which has been "fixed" twice before while under warranty. Tesla will no longer fix without charging (warranty expired). If it's the door handle or the door this needs to be a recall issue for Tesla to fix. Please recall! Data below is for most recent occurrence. This has happened at least 3 times this calendar year (2023).

FOR THE SECOND TIME IN 1 YEAR BOTH MY FRONT SUSPENSION HAVE BROKEN OFF WHILE BACKING UP.LAST YEAR WAS MY PASSENGER SIDE TIRE JUST THIS WEEK MY DRIVERS SIDETIRE JUST FALLING OFF FROM BALL JOINTS. TESLA CONTINUES EMPHAZING IIMPACTED WITH SOMETHING AND THEY WOULD NOT FIX THE BROKEN JOINT, THEY HAVE REFERRED ME TO A BODY SHOP THAT I DISAGREE DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT DOES NOT HAVE ANY BODY NOR STRUCTURAL DAMAGE JUST THE POOR SUSPENSION AND BALL JOINTS THAT ARE ISTALLED IN TESLAS. SOMEDAY SOMEONE IS GOING TO GET HURT WHILE DRIVING AT AVG SPEED FROM THESE FAULTY PARTS. THANK YOU,