2007 Toyota Prius Complaint Log

THE REAR HATCH LATCH IS CONTROLLED BY AN EXTERNAL RUBBER BUTTON THAT OVER TIME HAS MELTED INTO A STICKY GOO THAT HAS PREVENTED THE LATCH FROM OPERATING WITH NORMAL FINGER OPERATION. MY WIFE IS UNABLE TO OPEN THE HATCH EVEN THOUGH HER HANDS ARE STRONGER THAN THE AVERAGE WOMAN. NOT ONLY IS THIS A PROBLEM ACCESSING ITEMS IN THE TRUNK OF THE CAR, BUT IT COULD BE A SAFETY HAZARD UNDER SOME EMERGENCY SITUATIONS. TOYOTA HAS RECALLED SIMILAR LATCHES ON SOME SCION MODELS BUT TOLD ME THAT THERE IS NOT A RECALL ON THIS PRIUS MODEL.

THE HEADLIGHTS ON THIS CAR FLICKER AND GO OUR WITH VERY LITTLE WARNING WHILE DRIVING IN THE CITY AND ON THE HIGHWAY. WE WERE ALMOST IN A VERY SERIOUS COLLISION WHEN THE LIGHTS WENT OUT WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT ON THE HIGHWAY. SOMETIMES TURNING THE LIGHTS OFF AND ON AGAIN WILL GET THEM TO WORK FOR A WHILE, BUT IS IS HAPPENING SO FREQUENTLY THAT WE CANNOT DRIVE THE CAR AT NIGHT ANYMORE. I HAVE SEE MANY HUNDREDS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ONLINE. WOULD IT TAKE THE DEATH OF MY FAMILY TO GET TOYOTA TO RECALL AND FIX THIS DANGEROUS DEFECT???

HEADLIGHT TURNS OFF RANDOMLY, AND START AGAIN WHEN TURNING THE LIGHTS OFF AND ON AGAIN, THEN GOES OFF AGAIN.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, ALL WARNING LIGHTS BEGAN TO ILLUMINATE ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE FAILURE OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE FAILURE WAS NOT ABLE TO BE DETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. IN ADDITION, THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V449000 (HYBRID PROPULSION SYSTEM). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 148,000.

WITHOUT ANY WARNING, THE BRAKES ON MY VEHICLE BARELY RESPONDED TO THE TOUCH, AS THOUGH ALL THE POWER WAS GONE TO THEM. LUCKILY I WAS ONLY ENTERING MY SON'S SCHOOL PARKING LOT AND WITH THE LITTLE BIT OF BRAKING ABILITY I COULD STOP IN TIME. HOWEVER, IF THIS FAILURE HAD OCCURRED ON A MAJOR ROAD OR HIGHWAY, I COULD HAVE BEEN IN A TERRIBLE ACCIDENT OR HURT SOMEONE ELSE. I SEE THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED NUMEROUS TIMES NOW THAT I HAVE READ THROUGH OTHER REPORTS. HOW IS THIS NOT A RECALL ISSUE?? TO SUDDENLY, AND WITHOUT WARNING, HAVE A MAJOR LOSS OF BRAKE EFFECTIVENESS IS INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS!!!

HID HEADLIGHT LEVELING SENSOR FAILED DUE TO CORROSION, SENSOR IS EXPOSED UNDER THE CAR AND APPARENTLY LEAKS ROAD SALT SOLUTION.. HEADLIGHTS POINTING DOWN, INADEQUATE VISIBILITY DRIVING AT NIGHT. EXORBITANT COST TO REPLACE, ~$400 US

HEAD LAMP INTERMITTENTLY GOES OUT WHILE DRIVING ( HID TYPE) EXCESSIVE COST TO REPAIR , SECOND TIME FOR PROBLEM.

HEAD LIGHT GET TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING. LEFT SIDE HEAD LIGHT GOES OFF MORE OFTEN THAN RIGHT SIDE. RIGHT SIDE HEADLIGHT GOES OFF WHILE DRIVING TOO BUT NOT OFTEN LIKE DRIVER SIDE. I REPLACED HID LIGHT BULB AND COMPUTER CONTROLLED BALLAST. BUT THE SYMPTOM IS NOT CHANGED. THE WORST CASE FREQUENCY OFF WAS EVERY 5 MINUTES.

RIGHT FRONT HEADLIGHT GOES OUT INTERMITTENTLY. CYCLING LIGHTS OFF AND BACK ON USED TO CORRECT PROBLEM TEMPORARILY, BUT NOW HEADLIGHT STAYS ON FOR ONLY A MINUTE OR TWO. HAD SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH LEFT FRONT HEADLIGHT AND HAD HID BULB REPLACED IN 2012 AT GREAT EXPENSE. PROBLEM OCCURS WHEN LIGHTS ARE TURNED ON OR WHILE DRIVING. THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN AND A KNOWN DEFECT THAT TOYOTA SHOULD CORRECT FREE OF CHARGE.

THE RIGHT HID HEADLAMP ON OUR 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS HAS AN INTERMITTENT FAULT. IT GOES OUT AND THEN WILL COME BACK ON. THE DURATION THE HID LIGHT GOES OUT VARIES, AND IT MAY WORK FOR SEVERAL WEEKS BEFORE FAILING AGAIN. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN OCCURRING SINCE WE PURCHASED THE CAR NEW IN 2007. EARLIER, THE DEALERSHIP REPLACED THE LIGHT BULB AND POWER SUPPLY MODULES (UNDER WARRANTY). THAT SEEMED TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM, BUT NOW IT THE PROBLEM IS OCCURRING AGAIN. WE NOTICE THE PROBLEM WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT, I'VE BEEN UNABLE TO IDENTIFY A PATTERN THAT SUGGESTS IT MAY BE A LOOSE CONNECTION (SUCH AS, OCCURRING ON ROUGH OR BUMPY SURFACES). SO FAR THE PROBLEM HAS ONLY OCCURRED IN ONE HID HEADLAMP AND NOT BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. WHICH HAS THE POTENTIAL TO BE A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE.

ONE HID HEADLAMP WILL OCCASIONALLY TURN ITSELF OFF. TURNING HEADLAMP SWITCH OFF FOR 3-5 MINUTES AND THEN BACK ON WILL CORRECT THE ISSUE. AS ONE COULD IMAGINE, VERY PROBLEMATIC WHEN DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AT NIGHT. MULTIPLE BULB REPLACEMENTS (OVER $150 EACH) HAVE HAD NO EFFECT. DEALER RECOMMENDED FULL HEADLAMP REPLACEMENT IS OVER $1000. RESEARCH FOUND THAT MANY OTHERS HAVE HAD A SIMILAR ISSUE, AND EVENTUALLY TRACE THE PROBLEM BACK TO THE BALLAST OF THE HID LAMP, WHICH IS EASILY DAMAGED BY WATER FROM POOR DESIGN (THE BALLAST IS WEATHER-SEALED AGAINST THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, BUT NOT AGAINST THE HEADLAMP ITSELF; ANY WATER THAT MAKES ITS WAY INTO THE LAMP WILL RUN DOWN AND POOL ON THE BALLAST ELECTRONICS).

MY LEFT FRONT HEADLIGHT INTERMITTENTLY TURNS OFF. THEY DO EVENTUALLY TURN BACK ON, BUT IT SEEMS INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS TO BE RELYING ON ONE LIGHT FOR THAT TIME. I'VE SPOKEN WITH A FEW OTHER OWNERS WHO HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I HAD TO GET IT REPLACED FOR $200

READ HATCH DOOR LATCH SWITCH FAILURE DUE TO RUBBER COVER THAT HAS DETERIORATED AND MELTED INTO STICKY GOO. THE SWITCH NOW IS INTERMITTENT. BLACK TARRY RUBBER GETS ON MY HANDS WHEN I TRY TO USE IT. THE PRICE TO REPAIR WAS QUOTED AS $350

WIFE BACKED VEHICLE UP THEN SHIFTED TO DRIVE .MULTIPAL DASH WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON. VEHICLE WAS STOPPED AND SHUT OFF. AN ATTEMPT WAS MADE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE TO MOVE IT BACK TO A PARKED POSITION. THE VEHICLE COULD NOT BE PUT BACK INTO DRIVE OR REVERSE. HAD TO MANUALLY PUSH THE VEHICLE TO A PARKED POSITION. IT WAS LUCKY THAT THIS TOOK PLACE ON OUR PROPERTY IN FRONT OF OUR RESIDENCE AND NOT A BUSY PUBLIC ROADWAY. HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED ON A FLATBED TO A TOYOTA DEALER APPROX. 50 MILES AWAY. TOYOTA DEALER ADVISED LATER THE TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION FAILED. FOUND A TOYOTA "TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN" DATED JULY 7,2006 SPECIFICALLY DEALING WITH THIS ISSUE IN THE 2004 TO 2007 PRIUS. DOCUMENT TITLE: M.I.L. "ON" DTC P0AA6 OR P3009, INFORMATION CODES 526 & 613 MODELS '04- PRIUS. IN THE DOCUMENT IT STATES "THE TRANSAXEL ASSEMBLY HAS BEEN IMPROVED TO PREVENT THIS CONDITION." BOTTOM LINE IS TOYOTA IS AWARE OF THE FAULTY EQUIPMENT MENTIONED ABOVE AND HAS NOT ADDRESSED THE PROBLEM PROPERLY TO RECALL THE VEHICLES WITH THIS ISSUE EVEN THOUGH THIS IS AN OBVIOUS SAFETY ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THE BRAKE PEDAL DEPRESSED ON ITS OWN AND THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE. THE BRAKE HAZARD WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED SEVERAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 52,800.

YET ANOTHER 2007 PRIUS WITH THE REAR HATCH DOOR LATCH COVER THAT HAS DECOMPOSED RENDERING THE ABILITY TO OPEN THE DOOR FROM THE OUTSIDE IMPOSSIBLE. THIS IS A DEFECT THAT IS WIDELY DOCUMENTED ON VARIOUS WEBSITES. TOYOTA SHOULD BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE AND CORRECT THIS DEFECT AT THEIR COST. SAFETY ISSUES: INABILITY TO ACCESS EQUIPMENT NECESSARY TO REPAIR A TIRE FAILURE, POTENTIAL TO BE STRANDED ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAYS, IN REMOTE AREAS ETC. I AM 69 YEARS OLD, HAVE HAD A HIP REPLACEMENT, A COMMINUTED FRACTURE OF THE PATELLA ON THE SAME LEG RESULTING IN WIRE AND SCREWS HOLDING THE PATELLA TOGETHER. THE OTHER LEG HAS SUSTAINED A TRAUMATIC INJURY THAT RESULTED IN A ROD FROM TOP TO BOTTOM OF THE TIBIA, AND MUSCLE, VASCULAR, AND SKIN GRAFTS. CRAWLING INSIDE THE VEHICLE TO ACCESS THE MANUAL RELEASE IS NOT THE EASY TASK IT MAY HAVE ONCE BEEN; INABILITY TO ACCESS FIRST AID OR OTHER SAFEY EQUIPMENT IN THE EVENT OF AN INCIDENT; INABILITY OF RESCUERS TO ACCESS THE CABIN VIA THE REAR HATCH IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT.

LIFTGATE HANDLE LATCH MECHANISM DETERIORATED (INSIDE THE EXTERIOR HANDLE, NOT THE ACTUAL CONNECTION DOWN NEAR THE BUMPER). THIS IS A KNOWN 2007 PRIUS PROBLEM BOTH WITHIN THIS DATABASE AND IN ONLINE FORUMS, IF YOU SEARCH. PROBABLY PART OF THE 'RUBBER PARTS / GASKET TURNING INTO GOOP' PROBLEM DISCUSSED ELSEWHERE. SHOULD BE A DEALER WARRANTY REPAIR AS IT IS EXPENSIVE DEFECT TO FIX, $600 OR SO, ENTAILING REMOVING PANELS FROM THE INSIDE ETC AND REPLACING THE SWITCH. I CALLED TOYOTA AND THEY GAVE ME A CASE NUMBER BUT THAT IS ALL THUS FAR. LEXINGTON TOYOTA DEALER (MASS.) SAID THEY HAD NEVER HEARD OF IT, WHICH SEEMS UNLIKELY.

12/17/2013 VEHICLE EXPERIENCED COMPLETE BRAKE FAILURE ON THE FREEWAY. BRAKE LIGHTS AND ALARMS WENT ON. BRAKE PEDALS WERE NON RESPONSIVE AND WENT TO THE FLOOR WHEN PRESSED. MANAGED TO PULL OVER TO SIDE OF FREEWAY AND HAVE VEHICLE TOWED TO DEALERSHIP. AT DEALERSHIP WAS TOLD THAT THE BRAKE COMPUTER OR BRAKE ACTUATOR HAD FAILED. DEALERSHIP REPLACED BRAKE ACTUATOR. MILEAGE ON VEHICLE AT THE TIME WAS 128,451. BRAKE ACTUATOR FAILED AGAIN. THIS TIME VEHICLE FAILED TO STOP WHILE DRIVING ON RESIDENTIAL STREET. BRAKE WARNING LIGHT AND ALARM WENT ON BRIEFLY. DROVE VEHICLE TO DEALERSHIP. DEALERSHIP DIAGNOSED PROBLEM AS BRAKE ACTUATOR FAILING AGAIN. CURRENT MILEAGE ABOUT 170,000. LUCKILY BOTH TIMES NOBODY WAS HURT, NO PROPERTY WAS DAMAGED. HOWEVER, I DON'T BELIEVE IT THAT A VEHICLE SHOULD SUDDENLY NOT BE ABLE TO BRAKE DUE TO A COMPUTER MALFUNCTION, ESPECIALLY 42,000 MILES APART.

WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT THE HEADLAMPS WILL RANDOMLY AND SOMEWHAT FREQUENTLY JUST GO OUT. IF I TURN THE SWITCH OFF AND BACK ON AGAIN THEY WILL COME BACK ON. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT IS NOT ALWAYS OBVIOUS THAT THEY HAVE GONE OUT. I HAVE READ THAT MANY OTHER PEOPLE EXPERIENCE THIS PROBLEM AND A RECALL SHOULD BE ISSUED.

TRUNK RELEASE HATCH BUTTON DEGRADED. TURNED STICKY, FELT LIKE, TAR. TO OPEN THE TRUNK TOOK CONSIDERABLE EFFORT. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE, NOT BEING ABLE TO OPEN THE TRUNK OR OPENING WITH DIFFICULTY. TRUNK RELEASE HATCH BUTTON "MELTED" THEN THE ENTIRE GARNISH BROKE OFF WHEN TRYING TO OPEN IT.

THE RUBBER COVER ON THE REAR HATCH HANDLE IS DEFECTIVE AND MELTING. THIS CAUSES THE REAR HATCH TO STICK, NOT ALLOWING ACCESS TO THE REAR HATCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED. THIS HAPPENS MULTIPLE TIMES WHEN TRYING TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE REAR HATCH SPACE.

MY HEADLIGHT COMES ON BUT GOES OUT INTERMITENTLY. IF I TURN THE LIGHT OFF AND TURN IT BACK ON IT COMES BACK ON. I;VE READ ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE HAVING THIS ISSUE AND HEARD THAT REPLACING THE EXPENSIVE BULB SOMETIMES DOESN;T FIX THE PROBLEM AND THERE IS A CLASS ACTION SUIT ON IT.

WHILE BACKING SLOWLY INTO A PARKING SPOT OF AN INNER CITY SUPERMARKET IN A BUSY RESIDENTIAL AREA THE CAR SUDDENLY ACCELERATED. IT WENT OVER A 1 FT CONCRETE CURB LIMITER INTO THE STREET AND AFTER A 180 DEGREE LOOP IN REVERSE I FINALLY HIT THE E-BRAKE HARD WHILE AT THE SAME TIME I RAN OVER A PEDESTRIAN TRAFFIC LIGHT AND HIT A TREE WITH THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE TO A FULL STOP. AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. DURING ALL THIS PERIOD OF PROBABLY LESS THAN 10 SECONDS THE FOOT BRAKE WAS NOT RESPONDING ANY MORE. AFTER IMPACT THE ENGINE DID NOT START ANYMORE AND THE CAR WAS TOWED FROM THE SCENE.

THE HEADLIGHTS GO AT WITHOUT WARNING. SOMETIMES ONE GOES OUT SOMETIMES BOTH WHILE WE ARE DRIVING. BULB REPLACEMENT DOES NOT FIX THE ISSUES. THIS HAS CONTINUED TO BE A PROBLEM FOR YEARS. TOYOTA SERVICE HAS NOT OFFERED A FIX THAT WORKS! I HAVE BEEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY OR LOCAL ROADS WHEN, ALL OF A SUDDEN, ALL THE LIGHTING GOES DARK. I HAVE HAD SUCCESS IN RELIGHTING THE HEADLIGHTS BY TURNING OFF THE HEADLIGHTS AT THE MAIN SWITCH AND THEN TURNING THEM BACK ON. EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. BREAKS ARE ALSO A MENACE: ON WET ROADS IT IS ESPECIALLY NOTICEABLE WHEN USING THE BREAKS. IF YOU ARE BREAKING AND A TIRE GOES OVER A MORE SLIPPERY SURFACE THAN THE PAVEMENT, SUCH AS A MANHOLE COVER, THE ABS SYSTEM CUTS BREAKING TO ALL THE WHEELS SUCH THAT THE CAR CONTINUES ON AS IF THE BREAKS ARE NOT BEING APPLIED - THE CAR EFFECTIVELY RELEASES THE BREAKS AND YOU LOOSE CONTROL OF THE CAR UNTIL ITS SYSTEMS DECIDE TO RETURN CONTROLS TO THE DRIVER. THIS HAPPENS OVER AND OVER AND OVER. TRY IT ON A ROAD WITH A BIT OF LOOSE GRAVEL ON IT OR THE LEFTOVER COARSE SAND FROM WINTER ROAD MAINTENANCE OR GOING THROUGH A MILDE POTHOLE WHERE GRAVEL HAS SPILLED ONTO THE ROAD....BREAKING IN THESE CONDITIONS WILL CONSISTENTLY CAUSE THE CAR TO DIMINISH BREAKING POWER TO SUCH AN EXTENT THAT THE CAR IS NO LONGER LOWING DOWN. WE OWN 6 CARS OF VARYING MAKES AND THIS IS THE ONLY CAR THAT HAS THIS ISSUE. THE OTHER SIDE OF THIS SAME ISSUE IS THAT IF YOU ARE PULLING OUT INTO TRAFFIC AND A DRIVE WHEEL HITS A SLIGHTLY SLIPPERY PATCH, THE ENGINE POWER IS CUT FOR SO LONG AND SO SEVERELY THAT WE ARE AT RISK OF BEING HIT. THIS HAPPENS EVERY SINGLE TIME. TOYOTA SERVICE HAS NOT OFFERED A FIX. THOUGH WE HAVE TOLD THEM ABOU THIS ISSUE REPEATEDLY, THEY TYPICALLY DO NOT WRITE IT DOWN AND TELL US IT IS NORMAL. IT IS NOT NORMAL OR SAFE.

THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT KEEPS GOING OFF, WHEN DRIVING THE CAR, EVEN WITH A BRAND NEW BULB IN. ALSO, ONE TIME, BOTH HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT WHEN I WAS SITTING AT A STOP SIGN, AND TURNED ON THE TURN SIGNAL. HUGE SAFETY PROBLEM! THE LIGHTS COME ON WHEN TURNED ON INITIALLY THEN GO OFF AS I AM DRIVING ON ANY ROAD.

I HAVE OWNED TWO 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. BOTH HAVE BEEN TOTALED DUE TO WHAT I BELIEVE IS A FAILURE OF THE HYBRID DRIVETRAIN TO DISENGAGE DURING EMERGENCY BRAKING. FIRST 2007 PRIUS, PURCHASED NEW IN 2007. ON DEC 9, 2009, TO AVOID A COLLISION, I FULLY PRESSED THE BRAKES WITH FULL FORCE HOWEVER THE PRIUS CONTINUED TO PROPEL FORWARD. I SHOULD EASILY HAVE BEEN ABLE TO STOP THE VEHICLE IN TIME. AS IT CONTINUED TO PROPEL FORWARD, I COLLIDED WITH THE OTHER CAR. THE SPEED AT THE MOMENT OF IMPACT WAS APPROX 25 MPH. NO AIRBAGS WERE DEPLOYED. THE VEHICLE WAS DEEMED A TOTAL LOSS DUE TO THE EXTENSIVE COST OF REPAIRING THE HYBRID SYSTEM. I HAVE THE PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE ACCIDENT AND THE POLICE REPORT. SECOND TOYOTA PRIUS: I PURCHASED AN EXACT REPLACEMENT USED 2007 PRIUS IN DEC 2009. ON OCTOBER 17, 2015, A CAR STOPPED ABRUPTLY IN FRONT OF MY WIFE WHO WAS DRIVING AT APPROX 40 MPH. SHE REPORTED PRESSING ON THE BRAKES WITH FULL FORCE BUT THAT THE PRIUS CONTINUED TO PROPEL FORWARD. SHE HIT CAR IN FRONT THEN SWERVED TO THE RIGHT AS THE PRIUS CONTINUED TO PROPEL FORWARD. SHE STEERED TO THE LEFT INTO THE CENTER MEDIAN AND THE PRIUS STOPPED. THE CAR THEN CAUGHT ON FIRE. NO AIRBAGS WERE DEPLOYED. I HAVE THE PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE VEHICLE AND THE POLICE REPORT. I CONTACTED TOYOTA IN NOV 2015. AN INVESTIGATION WAS OPENED. A TOYOTA 'FIELD TECHNICAL SPECIALIST' INSPECTED THE VEHICLE. I SIGNED AN 'EDR CONSENT FORM' FOR TOYOTA TO READ ANY DATA FROM THE VEHICLE. HOWEVER DUE TO THE FIRE, THEY WERE NOT ABLE TO READ ANY DATA. ON JANUARY 26, 2016 I RECEIVED A LETTER FROM A LEGAL CLAIMS ADMINISTRATOR AT TOYOTA MOTOR SALES, USA, INC., STATING 'OUR INSPECTION WAS UNABLE TO CONFIRM ANY EVIDENCE OF A MANUFACTURING OR DESIGN DEFECT IN YOUR VEHICLE'. I CONTINUE TO OWN THE VEHICLE AND HAVE IT IN MY POSSESSION AT THIS TIME.

WHEN MY VEHICLE HAS THE HEADLIGHTS ON WHILE I AM DRIVING ONE OR BOTH WILL SPONTANEOUSLY GO OFF. THIS OCCURS MORE WHEN IT IS WET OUT, AND SEEMS TO OCCUR MORE WHEN I HIT A BUMP, BUT IT WILL OCCUR OFTEN WITH NO ANTECEDENT. IF I TURN THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH OFF AND THEN ON AGAIN THE HEADLIGHT (OR HEADLIGHTS) WILL TURN BACK ON BUT THEN MAY GO OFF RANDOMLY AGAIN LATER WHILE DRIVING. THE BULBS ARE FINE. I'VE READ ONLINE AND THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM FOR THE 2006 AND 2007 PRIUS. SO COMMON I DOUBT IT IS A RANDOM MALFUNCTION BUT A ENGINEERING/ELECTRICAL DESIGN OR EQUIPMENT PROBLEM. VERY DANGEROUS WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT. OCCURS ALMOST EVERY TIME I DRIVE IT.

I GOT UNINTENDED HIGH SPEED AND I COULD NOT STOP THE CAR. IT STOPPED BECAUSE THE WHEEL WAS HIT BY THE CURBE

THE BLACK RUBBER ON THE HATCHBACK LATCH HAS MELTED AND MAKES OPENING THE HATCHBACK DIFFICULT. THE BLACK GOO STICKS TO THE HAND AND IS VERY MESSY BECAUSE IT GETS ON ANYTHING TOUCHED INCLUDING CLOTHES, DOOR HANDLES AND CHILDREN. THE MELTED RUBBER INTERFERES WITH THE LATCH SUCH ON SOME OCCASIONS, THE HATCHBACK DOES NOT OPEN.

VEHICLE ONLY HAS 110K MILES ON IT. CHECK ENGINE STARTING GOING ON WHEN ACCELERATING ON UPHILL. FULL UP GAS TANK & LIGHT WOULD GO OFF. THEN CHECK ENGINE WOULD GO ON WHEN LOW GAS LEVEL. TOLD TO CHANGE GASCAP. DID NOT RESOLVE ISSUE. FILLING PULLED CODES IT WAS CATALYTIC CONVERTER. PART COST $1700.00 FOR PART ALONE FOR A PART THAT IS SUPPOSE TO LAST LIFETIME OF CAR.

EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION - 1 QT PER 1,000 MILES

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. WHILE DRIVING UNKNOWN SPEEDS, THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WENT DARK AND FAILED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT CALLED A LOCAL DEALER (TOYOTA OF REDLANDS, 921 NEW YORK ST, REDLANDS, CA 92374) AND WAS INFORMED TO SCHEDULE A SERVICE APPOINTMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER ADVISED THE CONTACT THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY AND REFERRED THE MANUFACTURER'S LEGAL DEPARTMENT PER THE CONTACT'S REQUEST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 191,000.

THE LIGHTS ON THIS VEHICLE HAVE BEEN AN ISSUES SINCE I BOUGHT IT IN 2012. THE HEADLIGHTS RANDOMLY GO OFF WHILE DRIVING, USUALLY ONE AT A TIME. THEY WILL COME ON AGAIN IF YOU NOTICE IT AND FLICK THE SWITCH. REPLACING THE BULBS HAS NOT SOLVED THE PROBLEM(HAD ONE REPLACED) NOW MY DAUGHTER IS DRIVING THE VEHICLE AND SHE HAS BEEN STOPPED A NUMBER OF TIMES WITH A HEADLIGHT OUT. I WILL AGAIN REPLACE THE BULB, BUT THIS DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE THE UNDERLYING PROBLEM, WHICH APPEARS TO BE A MANUFACTURERS PROBLEM TO ME.

I WAS DRIVING AFTER DARK ON THE FREEWAY. AFTER 2 MINUTES THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. I TURNED THE LIGHTS OFF AND BACK ON. THE DRIVER SIDE LIGHT WENT OUT AGAIN AFTER ANOTHER 2 - 3 MINUTES. THIS REPEATED FOR 3 MORE TIMES. AFTER THE 5TH TIME TURNING THE LIGHTS OFF AND BACK ON, BOTH HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT AFTER ABOUT 3 MINUTES. THIS WHILE MOVING AT MORE THAN 60 MPH ON A DARK FREEWAY. I TURNED THE LIGHTS OFF AND BACK ON AGAIN, AND THE PRECEDURE REPEATED FROM THE BEGINNING, I.E. LEFT HEADLIGHT WENT OUT 3 MORE TIMES BEFORE I REACHED MY DESTINATION. MY PRIUS HAS HID LIGHTS AND THIS APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM AS THESE ARS GET OLDER. DOES SOMEONE NEED TO DIE FIRST BEFORE THE NHTSA GETS TOYOTA TO FIX THIS PROBLEM?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING, WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 60 TO 70 MPH, THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE AND THE ELECTRONIC WATER PUMP FAILED. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE REPAIR FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 12V536000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING, HYBRID PROPULSION SYSTEM) WAS PERFORMED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 167,000.

HEADLAMPS GO OUT SUDDENLY AND BACK ON IF SWITCHED TURNED OFF THEN ON. BULBS WEREREPLACED AS PART OF RECALL AND IT CONTINUES TO HAPPEN. OVER $500 QUOTE TO REPLACE BULBS BUT NO GUARANTEE IT DOESN'T CONTINUE TO HAPPEN.

I THOUGHT THIS VEHICLE HAD A WATERPUMP RECALL...FOR THIS MODEL PRIUS AND I NEVER GOT ONE... ENGINE OVERHEATED AND WATERPUMP BECAME BROKEN..

I'M THE ORIGINAL OWNER AND DO MY OWN REGULAR OIL CHANGES AT THE MANUFACTURE SPECIFIED INTERVALS OF 5000 MILES. THIS LAST TIME I NOTICED NOT MUCH OIL COMING OUT OF THE DRAIN PAN, POURED IT BACK INTO AN EMPTY OIL JUG TO MEASURE AND YES ONLY 1.5 QUARTS DRAINED OUT. I HAVEN'T SEEN ANY SMOKE OR SMELLED ANY OIL BURNING AND NO OBVIOUS LEAKS. I DON'T RUN THE ENGINE HARD OR AT HIGH SPEEDS (LESS THAN HALF MY DRIVING IS INTERSTATE) BUT CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHY IT'S ALL OF A SUDDEN STARTED USING OIL. WHEN I SEARCHED ONLINE IT SEEMS TO BE A COMMON FAILURE WITH PRIUS OVER 100K MILES. I WANT TO ADD MY OTHER TOYOTA AND HONDA VEHICLES HAVE LASTED WELL OVER 200K AND 180K MILES WITH NO ENGINE TROUBLES AT ALL (I ALSO DO THE MAINTENANCE ON THEM)

THE REAR HATCH RELEASE ON MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS HAS BEGUN TO DETERIORATE AND TURN INTO A RUBBERY AND STICKY BLACK MESS. THIS ISSUE INTERFERES WITH THE USE OF THE HATCH AS THE RUBBER NOT ONLY GETS ON YOUR FINGERS BUT APPEARS TO BE BLOCKING THE RELEASE MECHANISM. THE DETERIORATION STARTED DURING THE SUMMER.. THE ISSUE HAS WORSENED AND TODAY I WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE REAR HATCH WHATSOEVER.

HEADLIGHTS GO OUT WHILE DRIVING, AND COME BACK ON WHEN HEADLIGHTS ARE SWITCHED FROM ON TO OFF THEN BACK ON AGAIN. THIS CAN HAPPEN 1 TIME DURING A TRIP OR MULTIPLE TIMES. DIAG OF ISSUE IS NOT EASY AND USUALLY MULTIPLE PARTS ARE REPLACED TRYING TO FIX THE ISSUE.

WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES IN TRAFFIC ON A CITY ROAD WITH A POSTED 35 MPH SPEED LIMIT, THE CAR FELT AS THOUGH IT SURGED FORWARD BRIEFLY AND ACCELERATED FOLLOWED BY THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKE DASHBOARD LIGHT COMING ON AND OFF AND THEN THE BRAKES FINALLY STARTED WORKING TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 10 TIMES THE LAST FEW WEEKS AND HAS NEARLY CAUSED ME TO REAR-END OTHER VEHICLES ON THE ROAD.

WHILE TRAVELING 65 MPH ON FREEWAY WARNING LIGHT COMES ON AND TELLS YOU TO PARK THE VEHICLE, ETC. PROBLEM IS THAT WHEN YOU STOP EXITING THE FREEWAY THE CAR SHUTS DOWN AS SOON AS YOU COME TO A STOP AND LEAVES YOU STRANDED IN THE LANE. THE TRANSMISSION HAS AN AUTOMATIC LOCKING SYSTEM AND YOU CAN'T ROLL IT OUT OF THE LANE WHICH LEAVES YOU VULNERABLE TO BEING HIT. THIS HAS HAPPENED 4 TIMES SINCE I HAVE OWNED THIS CAR. VERY TROUBLING. I HAVE TAKEN IT IN 3 TIMES TO DEALER AND THEY HAVE NO CLUE. DANGEROUS!

THE BACK LATCH OF MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS HAS DEGRADED ("MELTED" ALMOST). IT NO LONGER FUNCTIONS PROPERLY, AND I AM UNABLE TO OPEN THE BACK HATCH DOOR EASILY. SOMETIMES IT REQUIRES CONSIDERABLE EFFORT AND PERSEVERANCE TO GET IT OPEN. I AM CONCERNED THAT IN THE CASE OF AN EMERGENCY, I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE DOOR OPEN. THIS IS A MAJOR CAUSE FOR CONCERN AND IT IS A SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD.

THE BACK LATCH OF MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS HAS DEGRADED ("MELTED" ALMOST). I HAVE TO PRESS REPEATEDLY TO OPEN THE TRUNK. EACH TIME I TOUCH IT TO OPEN THE CAR MY HANDS GET COVERED IN MELTED RUBBER. I AM CONCERNED THAT IN THE CASE OF AN EMERGENCY, I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE DOOR OPEN. THIS IS A MAJOR CAUSE FOR CONCERN AND IT IS A SERIOUS SAFETY HAZARD. GIVEN HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE EXPERIENCING THIS PROBLEM WITH A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS (EVEN MY CAR DEALER KNOWS ABOUT THE ISSUE), WHY HASN'T A RECALL BEEN ISSUED?

MY BRIDGESTONE ECOPIA EP 422 TIRES WORE OUT AFTER ONLY 32,000 MILES EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE ADVERTISED AS WARRANTIED FOR 65,000 MILES. THE BRIDGESTONE DEALER GAVE ME A REFERENCE # 112-95-47 AND SENT ME TO A DEALER. THE DEALER MEASURED THE TIRES AT 4-4-0 AND STATED THAT THE WARRANTY WOULD NOT COVER BECAUSE THE INSIDE EDGES OF ALL FOUR TIRES WERE BALD. HE STATED THAT, "IT LOOKS LIKE AN ALIGNMENT PROBLEM TO ME." DURING THE LIFE OF THE TIRES I RETURNED TO THE TOYOTA DEALER FOR 5,000 MILE SERVICE INTERVALS. EACH TIME THEY CHECKED THE ALIGNMENT AND INFLATION. IT WAS ALWAYS "WITHIN SPEC" FOR MY 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. I TOLD THIS TO THE DEALER AND THE BRIDGESTONE REPRESENTATIVE. THEY STATED THAT THEY ARE SORRY BUT THEY CANNOT HONOR THE WARRANTY. WHAT GOOD IS A 65,000 MILE WARRANTY FOR TIRES THAT WEAR OUT IN 32,000 MILES IF THE FACT THAT THEY WORE OUT VOIDS THE WARRANTY? I PURCHASED THESE TIRES BECAUSE THEY GOT HIGH RATINGS FOR LOW ROLLING RESISTANCE AND THE BRIDGESTONE BROCHURE RECOMMENDED THEM FOR MY 07 PRIUS. WHILE THE GAS SAVINGS WERE GOOD, THE LOSS OF HALF THE LIFE OF THE TIRE MORE THAN OUTWEIGHS THE GAS SAVINGS. I BELIEVE THAT BRIDGESTONE HAS HAD A WEAR PROBLEM WITH THESE TIRES BECAUSE AFTER ONLY 3 YEARS THEY HAVE WITHDRAWN THE TIRES AND REPLACED THEM WITH THE NEW ECOPIA 422 PLUS. IT HAS A 70,000 MILE WARRANTY. BUT THE NEW TIRE HAS A TREAD COMPOUND RATED AT 680 WHILE THE OLD TIRE HAS A TREAD COMPOUND RATED AT 400. WOULDN'T IT BE REASONABLE TO THINK THAT THE MUCH HARDER 680 RATING WOULD PRODUCE MUCH MORE THAN ONLY 5,000 MILE MORE WARRANTY? I THINK THAT THEY WITHDREW THE SOFTER TIRE BECAUSE IT WORE OUT TOO QUICKLY AND CHANGED TO THE HARDER TREAD COMPOUND TO GET IT CLOSE TO THE ORIGINAL WARRANTY. BUT, THEY ARE NOT SUPPORTING THE OLD TIRE WARRANTY. I PRESENTED THIS LOGIC TO THE BRIDGESTONE REPRESENTATIVES ON THE PHONE AND IN PERSON. THEY STATED THAT THEY HAVE NOT HAD COMPLAINTS. I DOUBT THIS. THAT IS WHY I AM SENDING THIS COMPLAINT. THIS IS FALSE ADVERTISING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT LOW SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE EXPERIENCED UNINTENDED ACCELERATION WHICH RESULTED IN A CRASH IN THE GARAGE. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON TWO OCCASIONS. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 79,626. UPDATED 01/21/16*LJ *AS

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO SHIFT THE VEHICLE INTO DRIVE OR REVERSE THE TRANSMISSION SELECTION WILL REVERT TO NEUTRAL WITHIN A FEW SECONDS. THE PROBLEM OCCURS MULTIPLE TIMES EVEN AFTER TUNING OFF ALL ACCESSORIES AND RESTARTING THE VEHICLE. IN SOME CASES IT REQUIRES THAT THE TRANSMISSION JOYSTICK SELECTOR LEVER BE HELD MANUALLY IN THE D POSITION TO CONTINUE DRIVING. THE PROBLEM ALSO OCCURS AT LOW SPEED, I.E AFTER TURNING ONTO A STREET FROM A STOPPED POSITION OF THE TRANSMISSION WILL POP OUT OF GEAR INTO NEUTRAL. THE PROBLEM IS INTERMITTENT AND HAS OCCURRED A FEW TIMES OVER THE PAST YEAR.

THE TRUNK HATCH COVER/SWITCH ON MY 2007 PRIUS HAS COMPLETELY MELTED AND LOCKED UP. MYSELF, AND MANY OTHER PRIUS OWNERS OF THIS YEAR, ARE VICTIMS OF A FAULTY COMPONENT AND CAN NO LONGER ACCESS OUR SPARE TIRES IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY. THIS IS A TERRIBLE SAFETY ISSUE AND THESE COMPONENTS SHOULD BE RECALLED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN THE SUN, THE DASHBOARD MELTED AND LEFT A SHINY SUBSTANCE WHICH CAUSED A REFLECTION ON THE WINDSHIELD THAT OBSTRUCTED THE CONTACT'S VISIBILITY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 71,000.

I STARTED TO NOTICE THE RIGHT HID HEADLIGHT BULB SPONTANEOUSLY GO OUT WHILE DRIVING AND READ SOMEWHERE THAT THIS MIGHT BE A PRE WARNING THAT THE BULB WAS AT THE END OF ITS LIFE. I WENT AHEAD AND REPLACED BOTH BULBS (WHICH ARE RIDICULOUSLY EXPENSIVE) WITH BRAND NEW ONES, YET THIS DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. AT ANY GIVEN TIME, THE RIGHT BULB DECIDES TO TURN OFF AND SOMETIMES THE LEFT ONE FOR NO APPARENT REASON (NOT TIED TO HITTING BUMPS). THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO BE DRIVING AT NIGHT WHEN AT ANY GIVEN TIME THE BULBS COULD GO OUT. I READ SOMEWHERE THAT THIS ISN'T REALLY DEEMED A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE ITS USUALLY JUST ONE BULB THAT GOES OUT AND THAT GIVES YOU ENOUGH TIME TO GET TO A SERVICE STATION, BUT IF THATS THE CASE, TELL ME HOW I CAN GET PULLED OVER BY THE POLICE FOR HAVING A BULB OUT AND HOW THEY JUSTIFY THE DANGERS ASSOCIATED WITH IT? ACCORDING TO TRAFFICVIOLATIONSLAWFIRMS.COM: "TRAFFIC LAWS IN EACH STATE CONTAIN STATUTES REGARDING NIGHTTIME DRIVING AND THE APPROPRIATE USE OF HEADLIGHTS. DRIVING WITH POOR VISIBILITY DUE TO CONDITIONS, SUCH AS POOR OR NON-WORKING HEADLIGHTS IS A MAIN CAUSE OF NIGHTTIME ACCIDENTS. ASIDE FROM BEING A MAIN CAUSE OF NIGHTTIME ACCIDENTS, DRIVING WITHOUT HEADLIGHTS AFTER DUSK OR BEFORE DAWN, WILL RESULT IN A DRIVING WITHOUT LIGHTS TICKET FROM LAW ENFORCEMENT." WHAT WILL IT TAKE FOR TOYOTA TO ISSUE A RECALL ON A KNOWN AND WIDESPREAD ISSUE? THIS REMINDS ME OF THE MOVIE "FIGHT CLUB": YOUR DRIVING 65 MPH DOWN A DARK ROAD AND YOUR HEADLIGHTS GO OUT, A DEER YOU CANT SEE JUMPS OUT IN FRONT OF THE CAR, AND YOU CRASH AND BURN WITH EVERYONE TRAPPED INSIDE. NOW, SHOULD TOYOTA INITIATE A RECALL? TAKE THE NUMBER OF VEHICLES IN THE FIELD, A, MULTIPLY BY THE PROBABLE RATE OF FAILURE, B, MULTIPLY BY THE AVERAGE OUT-OF-COURT SETTLEMENT, C. A TIMES B TIMES C EQUALS X. IF X IS LESS THAN THE COST OF A RECALL, THEY DON'T DO ONE.