2012 Chevrolet Captiva Complaint Log

My shifter doesn't recognize that its in park and won't let me remove my keys. It gets stuck on ACC and I can't turn my key/ignition to the off position. And for the 3rd time it's like popped outta gear. I bought it used. This started 2 months ago but for the 10 days its continually gotten worse. 8 outta 10 times I go to put it in park and I can't get key out. I haven't had it inspected or looked or anything else like that. I Googled it and i read up on how this is an issue for 2012 to 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. But no recall for 2012 year. I don't know what time do. There was no accidents regarding this issue.

The car will stall and shut off, the radio quits working and the key will get stuck in the ignition.

The component that has failed has been the transmission and the AC. My safety was at risk because the car wouldn’t drive forward whilst on the road. It has been confirmed by independent service. Yes the problem has been inspected by representatives. There was a warning that was said “Check transmission engine”

On my 2012 CHEVEROLET captiva LT .I HAD THE EMERGENCY BRAKES ON WITH THE CAR IN DRIVE AN I WENT TO OPEN MY GATES THE CAR JUMPS OUT OF THE PARKING BRAKES IF THE ENGINE IDLES GO UP JUST A LITTLE WHEN THE AIR CONDITIONING COMES ON .OR IF YOU ARE IN DRIVE WITH THE EMERGENCY BRAKES UP AND JUST REVS THE ENGINE THE BRAKES JUMPS OUT REALLY EASY. NO SAFETY TO THIS EMERGENCY BRAKES.

Unknown, car will shut off while driving and turn back on while flashing service traction control. In some cases it will completely turn off and I will have to put transmission in park and re crank it in the middle of traffic. Power steering goes out while driving aswell as other issues. Locks go in and out while driving. No known cause to this as battery and alternator is good and I've replaced BCM and reprogrammed it but still having the same issue

While driving on an interstate, the voltage suddenly began to decrease. Within a few minutes, the car died on the highway. we were able to get it to the shoulder. No electrical equipment worked, including the emergency lights. After taking it to a garage, the mechanic said the alternator was working fine, but the battery was drained. He was able to start and run the car, but the computer indicated that a long-term memory issue with the computer, itself, was indicated. Also, previous to this, the transmission had to be rebuilt. Maybe DumDum should declare that all Americans made vehicles are presumed to be defective, and subject to a recall!

The battery cables are faulty and overheat causing the car to shut off and lock key in the ignition with complete loss of power this is happening to nearly every Chevy captiva and is a wide spread issue this is also a serious fire hazard as the cables over heating is enough to boil water car shuts off and locks key in ignition without warning

I am not sure what component could be one could be several. When I pulled into my driveway and put it in park. The engine light came on and the stereo went off. When checking the stereo would not turn back on and nothing on the instrument panel would work, heater/air conditioning, rear wipers, heated seats, hazard lights, the parking/emergency break literally nothing. So I turned the key in the ignition to the off position took the key out and the engine continued to run? I called onstar from the vehicle and realized that didn't work either so I had called from my cell. They advices me to call a mechanic. Unable to do so as it was 9pm and not was mechanic shop was available I looked online. I ended up pulling the fuel relay switch and waited several minutes for it to finally die then I undid the negative battery cable. Tried again the next day and same thing happened. It is available for inspection as I have no clue as to if and when it can be fixed. My safety was at risk due to the vehicle not shutting off and a fire/explosion could happen. The safety feature or requirement of the hazard lights (good thing I wasn't on the freeway) the parking/emergency break no need to explained this. Unable to call for emergency with onstar equipped vehicle and who know what else could be wrong. Unknown if anyone else has a verified claim but it seems to be a problem with this vehicle and no it has not been inspected but will be taking to a shop Monday morning! No lights/lamps/warnings were on or appeared prior to the engine light turning on with all this at the same time.

Engine light came on lost compressions. Engine wouldn't turn off. Steering was loose like we were on water. Traction control and stabilitrac were disabled and unable to turn bsvjninuiHas to press breaks to the floor. If I was going any faster I could have lost control. The repair shop replaced the fuse box and Bcm not even 3 miles engine light came back on and it misfires, pistons problems, compression. I called the dealership I bought it from and they state it's safe!

Vehicle has a know oil useage problem. Have to check to make sure it is not low between oil changes. In the past I had it start to cut out if I was sitting at a stop light & had to put my foot on the brake & the gas pedal to keep it from quitting. Only happened occasionally & never gave it more thought till about a month ago. Was sitting in my car while it was idling and it just quit. Started it back up & it did it again. Thank goodness I was sitting in a driveway not on a highway. It drove terrible on the way home. Sputtered at every stop sign. Got it home a mile away and parked it. I was lucky to get home because it had started to leak oil just before my driveway so you could see it on the road. I lost the rest of the oil in my driveway! Got to doing some calling & research & found out they have issues with freezing up a tube on the top of the engine & now I have a blow rear main seal! Had we been informed of this issue we would have been able to prevent a real problem. Now I have a 2012 Chevy Captive (manufactured 02/24/12) that has 87,000 miles on it an needs a major repair! From our understanding some vehicles were issued a notification that this was an issue & offered a engine repair. Our vin number unfortunately doesn't come up under this issue. So now we are sitting a a major repair issue & no help with covering the cost of this known issue! The car is in good shape and we are unable to drive it till we get it fixed. Wish we would have known about this issue. Not too happy to find out this problem has been known about but yet many have not been notified of this issue. Glad my car died in my driveway & not out on some highway in the middle of now where. Could have caused a major accident when the car just died in the roadway! Would like to know what is offered for this issue & why car owners are not notified of this issue. Just frustrating!

Numerous complaints have been filed on the internet and to the NHTSA concerning the electrical system on this vehicle. Include engine not starting when turn key, car starts to have flashing instrument panel light and then dying, failure to be able to remove the key when turning off the ignition, most dangerous issue is the electrical system failing when on the highway, dealers seem to be aware of the problem but have not corrected problem which is probably related to positive and negative battery cables and "battery current sensor". This is a dangerous vehicle because of the uncertainty of the electrical failure to some time start or failing while driving down the highway. It certainly seems that there have been sufficient issues by any number Captiva owners to warrant a recall and have dealers correct the electrical problems before one is seriously injured.

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK. IT WOULD STICK IN THE AUXILIARY POSITION. I COULD RESTART THE ENGINE BUT I COULD NOT TURN THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY OFF. THIS STARTED A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO AND WOULD HAPPEN RANDOMLY. OVER TIME IT BECAME MORE FREQUENT BEFORE IT FINALLY WASN’T COMING OUT AT ALL. I WOULD HAVE TO LEAVE MY KEY IN THE CAR AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AFTER USE. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND HAD THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL SHIFTER REPLACED. FOLLOWING THIS REPAIR I STARTED HAVING MORE ELECTRICAL ISSUES. MY RADIO WOULD CUT OUT AND THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WOULD FLASH ON. I WENT TO GM SERVICE AND THEY COULD FIND NOTHING. THE ISSUE CONTINIUED AND ONLY GOT WORSE. I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND LOST ACCELERATION TO MY VEHICLE IN HEAVY TRAFFIC. I HAD TO SLIDE ON TO THE SHOULDER AND WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE CAR AND GET GOING AGAIN TO ONLY HAVE IT HAPPEN AGAIN 30 MIN LATER. I WAS ON AN UPHILL AND HAD NO WHERE SAFE TO PULL OVER. MY CAR WOULD SURGE AHEAD, LOSE MOMENTUM AND REPEAT UNTIL I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO GET SAFELY TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. I HAD A NUMBER OF LIGHTS FLASH ON DURING THIS EPISODE… CHECK ENGINE, SERVICE STABILIZER, AIR BAG AND OTHERS. THE CHECK ENGINE STAYED ON FOR 2 DAYS. I WAS ALSO UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY AGAIN BUT THIS TIME I ALSO COULDN’T TURN THE ENGINE BACK ON AGAIN. I THOUGHT THAT I WAS GOING TO BE STUCK ON THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY. AFTER SITTING FOR A WHILE I WAS ABLE TO START THE CAR AND MAKE IT HOME. LUCKILY! SINCE THEN I HAVE CONTINUED TO HAVE REGULAR PROBLEMS WITH THE RADIO AND WAS STUCK AGAIN IN A PARKING LOT UNABLE TO REOVE MY KEY. SOMETHING SERIOUS IS HAPPENING BUT AGAIN MY MECHANIC CANNOT FIND A THING WRONG AND THEY HAVE JUST HAD THE CAR FOR 2 DAYS. I SEE THAT OTHER OWNERS ARE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES. THIS NEEDS TO BE ATTENDED TO BEFORE SOMETHING SERIOUS HAPPENS TO SOMEONE.

Sometimes when driving all the electrical equipment will turn off for a brief moment. When this happens all the warning lights come on. Sometimes prior to this happening the dashboard lights will begin to flicker. Service lights such as "service traction control" will come on then go off, the headlights would noticably flicker and the cruise control would randomly turn off. This problem has not been replicated by the independent garage it was taken too however there were codes for low and high voltages thrown. The garage couldn't find anything wrong with it but replaced the battery and alternator. The problem went away for a brief period of time but will randomly come back from time to time. The key also would sometimes get in the ignition and this progressed untill the key became fully stuck and the car had to be serviced. Many others have these same complaints.

The contact owns a 2012 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that while his engine was off, the vehicle had caught fire and burned out on its own. The contact discovered the failure upon the entrance of the vehicle and saw smoke within the cabin. The vehicle would not start and was towed to the dealer. The contact was then informed that the climate control module had caused a fire within the vehicle and the module was replaced. After the repair, the check engine light would intermittently illuminate on the dashboard. The contact took the vehicle to Bob Tyler Toyota(7201 Pensacola Blvd, Pensacola, FL 32505) where they diagnosed the vehicle with engine failure. The manufacturer was notified and the contact was given a case number. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was 125,379

KEY GETS LOCKED IN THE IGNITION. ALWAYS NOT SOMETIMES ALL THE TIME. JUST PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE IS PARKED AND CANT DRIVE IT WITHOUT LEAVING THE KEY INSIDE

BRAKE CALIPER LOCKED UP AND CAUGHT ON FIRE CAUSING THE CAR TO BURN TO THE CAR TO BURN TO THE GROUND.

I HAVE BROUGHT MY VEHICLE TO CHEVY AND WAS ADVISED THAT THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE TRACTION CONTROL OR THE RADIO. EVERY SO OFTEN THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT COMES ON AND STATES THAT THE TRACTION CONTROL NEEDS TO BE SERVICED WHEN THE VEHICLE IS RUNNING IDLE FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS. WHEN THAT COMES ON THE RADIO BLINKS ON AND OFF. IN THE PAST TWO WEEKS, THE VEHICLE HAD TO GET JUMPED TWICE. TOOK THE VEHICLE TO GET TESTED AT TWO DIFFERENT AUTO STORES AND WAS ADVISED AFTER THEY TESTED THE BATTERY THAT THE BATTERY WAS GOOD. I AM FRUSTRATED THAT THEY CANNOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT YET IT IS ON THE BRINK OF NOT WORKING EVERY OTHER DAY. IN ADDITION, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT ABLE TO GO UP A SMALL HILL AFTER THE SNOW HAD FALLEN. I HAD TO GET ASSISTANCE. THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.

WHILE DRIVING - OR EVEN SITTING STILL - RADIO AND CLOCK WILL SHUT OFF, "SERVICE STABILITRACK LIGHT" ILLUMINATES ON DASH WITH THE MESSAGE SHOWING ON THE MESSAGE CENTER DASH DISPLAY. AFTER 5 SECONDS OR SO, IT DISAPPEARS; HOWEVER OCCURS OFTEN BUT NO CONSISTENT (SOMETIMES NONE AT ALL, SOME TIMES 4 OR SO TIMES IN A 20MI DRIVE). BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR ARE BRAND NEW (ALTERNATOR HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE IN 12 MONTHS). VEHICLE IS OWNED OUTRIGHT AND HAS 142,000+ MILES.

KEY REMAINS LOCKED IN THE TUMBLER IN THE OFF POSITION. THIS ALSO DRAINS THE BATTERY.

1. AFTER DRIVING TO ANY LOCATIONS, FOR EXAMPLE, GROCERY STORES, TRAIN STATION PARKING LOT IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD, THE KEY WOULD NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION, BUT SHUT DOWN THE ENGINE. THEN AFTER 15-30 MINUTES, THERE IS ALWAYS A CLICK, AND ONCE I TURNED THE KEY , IT STARTS THE CAR SUDDENLY. THIS HAS OCCURRED TWICE THE PAST FEW MONTHS, AND MY CHEVYL DEALERSHIP HAD WORKED ON THIS ISSUE. YET, IT HAS STARTED CURRING AGAIN THE PAST 2 DAYS 07/19/2020, AFTER THEY WORKED ON IT SINCE12/04/2019. 2. THERE IS ALSO A JUMP SURGE WHEN SLOWING DOWN TO STOP WHEN TRAFFIC IS MOVING SLOWLY, AND AS I TRIED TO DRIVE FORWARD OR WHEN TURNING FROM A STOP SIGN.

HAVING NUMEROUS ISSUES. THE FIRST ONE IS THAT THE IGNITION WHEN SWITCHED TO OFF WILL NOT RELEASE THE KEY. DOES NOT TURN ALL THE WAY TO RELEASE THE KEY OUT. HAD IT SWAPPED OUT AND STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. SOMETHING ABOUT A RELEASE INSIDE THE COLUM THAT WILL NOT FULLY DISENGAGE SECOND ISSUE IS THAT MY CAR WILL LOCK AS WELL AS UNLOCK ITS SELF. THE CAR CAN BE OFF AND PARKED OR EVEN DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. THE HATCH RELEASE AS WELL WILL DISENGAGE AND POP OPEN. TOOK IT TO SHOPS AND DEALERS.

CAR HAS RANDOM TIMES IT WONT START. NOW MY RADIO CUTS IN AND OUT WHILE DRIVING. LIGHTS FLASH ON AND OFF

DRIVING ALONG THE "SERVICE AIRBAG" LIGHT COMES ON. NO OTHER INDICATORS OF PROBLEM. 55,000 MILES. *TR

AFTER DRIVING AND PARKING, THE VEHICLE AT THE STORE. THE VEHICLE CONSTANTLY LOOSES ALL POWER AND WILL NOT START AND THERE ARE NO WARNING SIGNS. KEYS WILL LOCK IN THE IGNITION, REMOTE START DEPROGRAMS, THE CAR HAS NO POWER. POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE IS EXTREMELY HOT AND SECOND-DEGREE BURNS ARE ON HAND WHEN TOUCHED. REPLACED BATTERY, POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE, AND 1 WEEK LATER THE PROBLEM STARTED AGAIN. NO PROBLEM WITH THE STARTER, ALTERNATOR. NO LOOSE WIRES AND THERE IS NO ELECTRICAL SHORTAGE. RESEARCHED THE PROBLEM ON THE INTERNET AND THIS APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS TYPE OF VEHICLE. THE BATTERY WILL NOT CHARGE FROM A JUMP. NO POWER TO THE CAR AND YOU ARE STRANDED FOR HOURS WAITING FOR THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE TO COOL DOWN. AFTER HOURS OF WAITING THE CAR STARTS UP WITH NO PROBLEM, BUT WILL DO THE SAME THING AGAIN WHEN TURNED OFF. NOTHING IS LEFT ON TO DRAIN THE POWER FROM THE CAR. THIS IS HAPPENING CONSTANTLY AFTER DRIVING. *TR

MY KEY KEEPS GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND WON'T COME . WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY TO TAKE IT OUT. IT WON'T TURN ALL THE WAY TO THE LOCK OPTION AND PULL OUT. THIS HAS HAPPENED MORE THAN ONCE

MY HUSBAND WAS DRIVING AND THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTIONS, HE HIT THE BREAKS AND CAME TO A QUICK STOP AND THE VEHICLE FROM BEHIND BUMPED HIM AT ABOUT 20 MILES AN HOUR. IT SET OFF THE AIRBAG DASH LIGHT, BUT THE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE DEALERSHIP DIAGNOSED A PROBLEM WITH THE STEERING WHEEL CANISTER OR COIL FOR THE AIRBAG, AND A REAR SENSOR IN THE BUMPER OF THE VEHICLE. I AM WONDERING IF THIS IS RELATED TO THE TAKATA AIR BAG RECALL. IT HAS NOT HAD A CAR ACCIDENT SINCE WE HAVE OWNED IT IN 2017. I AM UNSURE WHEN THIS HAPPENED. IT WAS IN THE LAST YEAR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE STEERING WHEEL VIBRATED ABNORMALLY WHENEVER THE VEHICLE EXCEEDED 60 MPH. ADDITIONALLY, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED CONSTANTLY. STEW HANSEN HYUNDAI (11344 HICKMAN RD, CLIVE, IA 50325, 888-426-6396) WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THE STEERING WHEEL SENSOR MODULE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $1,000. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER ON FOUR OTHER OCCASIONS WHERE THE CAMSHAFT WAS ALSO REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 54,500.

KEY KEEPS GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION 75% OF THE TIME I TRY TO SHIFT IT OFF. IT WONT SHUT ALL THE WAY OFF EITHER. IT JUST GOES TO ACC. SEEMS LIKE A VERY VERY COMMON ISSUE. THIS NEEDS A RECALL AND GM SHOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR IT. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

GOING DOWN ROAD AT 70MPH AND VEHICLE SLOWS DOWN TO 40MPH ON ITS OWN AND I ALMOST WAS REAR ENDED BY THE CAR BEHIND ME. THIS HAPPENED ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS FIRST PURCHASED THE KEY FAILED TO OPERATE AS DESIGNED. ADDITIONALLY, WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED AND THE GEAR SHIFTER IN THE PARK POSITION, THE VEHICLE CONTINUED MOVING. THE CONTACT SHIFTED THE VEHICLE INTO REVERSE AND ACTIVATED THE PARKING BRAKE TO STOP THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BOWSER CHEVROLET OF MONROEVILLE (1600 GOLDEN MILE HWY, MONROEVILLE, PA 15146) TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE GEAR SHIFTER NEED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000.

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION

STALLED, SLOWED SPEED, STOPPED. WILL NOT RESTART

ELECTRICAL PROBLEM. WILL NOT START AFTER TURNING OFF. 3RD TIME

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION AFTER PUT IN PARK. HAVE TO RESTART AND MOVE GEAR SHIFTS UP AND DOWN THEN BACK TO PARK. IF THIS DON'T RELEQSE KEY I HAVE TO LEAVE IT AND THEN HAVE DEAD BATTERY.

LOSS OF POWER DURING STEERING - STEERING NOT STABLE - STALL OF ENGINE WHEN TURNING A CURVE. CAUSED MINOR VEHICLE ACCIDENT ON INTERSTATE

SERIOUS ELECTRICAL ISSUES CAUSES SUV TO SHUT DOWN WITH LITTLE TO NO WARNING. ALL LIGHTS ON DASH LIGHT UP, RPMS GO TO 0 CAR SHUTS OFF. THIS HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES, CAR CAN'T BE STEERED AWAY FROM TRAFFIC AND THE HAZARD LIGHTS ARE DEAD. KEY CAN'T BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION. COMPLETELY DEAD VEHICLE.NEW BATTERIES, NEW ALTERNATORS AND MULTIPLE MECHANICS CAN'T FIND THE PROBLEM. DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLES, RECHARGE THE BATTERY AND IT RUNS FOR A FEW MONTHS. NO ONE CAN TELL US THE ISSUE AND WE ARE STUCK WITH NO RECALLS AND LOTS OF PEOPLE HAVE THE SAME DANGEROUS ISSUE. CAR IS DRIVABLE TODAY BUT TO DANGEROUS TO PUT MY FAMILY IN ANYMORE. ARE THEY WAITING FOR SOMEONE TO DIE BEFORE A RECALL IS ISSUED?

THE VEHICLE IS LIGHTWEIGHT TO THE POINT WHERE HIGH WINDS PUSH THE CAR TO THE SIDE WHILE IT IS IN MOTION. YOU CAN FEEL THE WIND MOVING IT AND FEEL THE CAR MOVE A LOT WHEN OTHER VEHICLES ARE DRIVING AT HIGH SPEEDS NEXT TO IT.

THE CAR HAS LEAKAGE AND COOLANT PROBLEMS. THE ENGINE OVERHEATS AFTER A LITTLE WHILE OF DRIVING THE VEHICLE.

THE E-BRAKE COMES ON BY ITS SELF WHILE DRIVING DOWN ROAD. CHECKED AGAINEST VIN AND STATED NOT ON RECALL LIST BUT OTHERS HAVE BEEN RECALLED FOR SAME THING.

INITIALLY THE ISSUE PRESENTED AS OCCASIONAL BRAKE LIGHT OUTAGE. SOON AFTER THIS BECAME PERMANENT. IT ALSO AFFECTS THE REVERSE LIGHTS MAKING IT SO THAT THEY'RE ALWAYS ON, EVEN WHEN THE CAR ISN'T RUNNING. IN ADDITION, THE INTERIOR LIGHTS (DOORS AND OVERHEAD) ARE AFFECTED AND NO LONGER WORK. THE BACKUP CAMERA HAD TO BE REMOVED BECAUSE THE WIRING BURNT OUT. ALSO THE SUNROOF HAS STOPPED WORKING. FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL ALSO STOPPED WORKING. IT WAS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AROUND MID-MARCH 2019. I HAD TO TAKE IT IN TO A AUTO ELECTRIC SPECIALIST TWICE STARTING APRIL 2019. AFTER ALL THIS, IT WAS DIAGNOSED AS NEEDING A NEW HARNESS AND TOTAL REWIRE AND A BODY CONTROL MODULE AND PROGRAMMING. APPARENTLY THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE WITH THIS VEHICLE AND I WAS TOLD I WOULD BE BETTER OFF CUTTING MY LOSSES AND STARTING OVER WITH A DIFFERENT CAR. DATES ARE APPROXIMATE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, THE VEHICLE MADE AN ABNORMAL SOUND. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THREE QUARTS OF OIL WERE ADDED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE WAS CONSUMING AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF OIL AND IT NEEDED TO BE CHANGED BEFORE EVERY 1,000 MILES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE CONTACT CALLED HEALEY CHEVROLET BUICK (LOCATED AT 5216 NY-17M, NEW HAMPTON, NY 10958, (845) 360-9821) AND AN APPOINTMENT WAS SCHEDULED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 65,000.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CONTINUES TO COME ON. HAD IT TESTED AND I NEEDED TO REPLACE THE CAMSHAFT AND THE CRANKSHAFT SENSORS. DID THAT DROVE IT FOR A WEEK OR TWO AND THE LIGHT CAME BACK ON TESTED IT AGAIN AND GOT THE SAME READING CONCERNING BANK 1 CAMSHAFT AND CRANKSHAFT SENSOR. WAS TOLD IT COULD BE THE TIMING CHAIN CAUSING THIS PROBLEM AND THAT THIS VEHICLE IS KNOWN FOR THE TIMING CHAIN ISSUE. WAS TOLD THAT THERE MAY BE MORE THAN ONE CAMSHAFT BUT THE READING STILL COMES UP THE SAME IN BANK 1. IS THIS NORMAL FOR THIS VEHICLE AND IS IT UNDER SOME KIND OF WARRANTY. HAVE ONLY 104200 MILES ON THIS VEHICLE.

ON 2/20/19 THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND CAR WAS IDLING ROUGH AND MAKING A CHUGGING SOUND. MILEAGE ON CAR AT THIS POINT WAS 108,270. CAR WAS TAKEN TO AUTO ZONE WHERE THE CODE P0016 WAS PULLED REFERENCING A CAMSHAFT ISSUE ACCORDING TO THE EMPLOYEE. WHEN I CHECKED THE OIL, IT SHOWED BELOW THE MINIMUM LEVEL AND SO I PUT 1 QT. OF OIL PER THE OWNER'S MANUAL. AFTER I ADDED 1 QT. OF OIL, CAR SEEMED TO RUN MUCH MORE SMOOTHLY. I SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT TO GET THE OIL CHANGED. OIL WAS CHANGED AT MILEAGE 108832. ON 5/1/19 CAR WAS IDLING ROUGH AND MAKING CHUGGING SOUND. CHECKED OIL LEVEL AND FOUND THAT IT WAS BONE DRY ON THE STICK AND I ADDED 1 QT OF OIL PER THE OWNER'S MANUAL. EXHIBITING SAME SYMPTOMS OF THE ISSUE REFERENCED ON TSB # 13-06-01-003H, SAME ISSUE I HAD WITH MY 2012 EQUINOX WHICH HAS THE SAME TYPE OF ENGINE AS THIS CAPTIVA (2.4L ECOTEC). MILEAGE WAS 111,215 WHEN THIS OCCURRED. I THEN TOOK MY CAR IN TO A GM DEALER TO HAVE OIL CHANGED AND REQUESTED AN OIL CONSUMPTION TEST AND THEY CHANGED THE OIL/FILTER AT MILEAGE 111,252. OVER THE NEXT YEAR WE CHANGED THE OIL AT 115,874 MILES, 118,744 MILES, 122,106 MILES. THERE WERE A HANDFUL OF TIMES WHERE I HAD TO ADD 1 QT. OF OIL TO THE CAR PER THE OWNER'S MANUAL BECAUSE IT BECAME LOW ON OIL. THEN ON 6/10/20 THE CAR DIED IN TRAFFIC AND IT WAS ABLE TO BE STARTED AGAIN. IT WAS DRIVEN LESS THAN 5 MILES TO A FIRESTONE WHERE 3 QT OF OIL HAD TO BE ADDED AS ENGINE WAS BONE DRY. OIL WAS CHANGED NEXT DAY AT 125,919 MILES. THEN ON 7/9/20 THE CAR DIED ON THE ROAD AND WOULD NOT START AGAIN. HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A FIRESTONE WHERE THE TECHNICIAN SAID THAT METAL SHAVINGS WERE FOUND IN THE ENGINE OIL AND IT WAS BELIEVED TO BE FROM TIMING CHAIN ISSUE. LOW ENGINE OIL CAUSED FROM OIL CONSUMPTION ISSUE CAN CAUSE THOSE PARTS TO WEAR AND METAL SHAVINGS CONTAMINATE ENGINE OIL. NEW ENGINE IS NEEDED, MILEAGE 126,825.

A LITTLE OVER 93000 MILES AND THE ENGINE BLOWS. OIL CHANGE WAS COMPLETED LESS THEN 200 MILES BEFORE

WHEN DRIVING DOWN STREET OR EVEN IN A PARKED POSITION THE SUV WON'T START. NO LIGHTS, NO AUDIO. CANNOT REMOVE KEY. UNABLE TO ENGAGE ALARM. RADIO ON & OFF INTERMITTENTLY; TRIGGERED BY USING HAZARDS, TURN SIGNALS, HI-BEAMS, CRUISE CONTROL. ALSO, 'SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL', 'ABS', AND A CAPITAL 'P' WITH WRENCH ICON FLICKER INTERMITTENTLY IN THE DASH PANEL. 'CHECK ENGINE' LIGHT APPEARS PERIODICALLY BUT EVENTUALLY CLEARS. SUV HAS DIED SIMPLY DRIVING IN TRAFFIC WITH THE ABOVE SYMPTOMS. ALL FUSES IN ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND INTERIOR FUSE PANEL ARE IN TACT. AFTER WIGGLING THE BATTERY HARNESS, SUV WILL RESPOND POSITIVELY.

KEY WILL NOT GO PAST ACCESSORY WHEN TRYING TO SHUT OFF. TOOK TO DEALER, IT'S AN ARM THAT IS NOT ENGAGING IN SHIFTER WHEN PLACING IN PARK.

ON 1/2/19, I LEFT WORK AND TRAVELED APPROXIMATELY 2 MILES WHEN I BEGAN HEARING ENGINE NOISE. UPON PULLING INTO CONVENIENCE STORE, I CHECKED DIPSTICK AND FOUND NO OIL SHOWING. SINCE OIL WAS CHANGED ABOUT 400 PRIOR AND NO LEAKS WERE FOUND, I PROCEEDED TO ADD OIL TO ENGINE. FOUND OIL LEAKING OUT AS FAST AS PUTTING IN. AFTER BEING TOWED BACK TO WHERE I WORK (INDEPENDENT REPAIR SHOP) AND NEXT DAY FOUND REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL ON ENGINE DISLODGED FROM ENGINE. FURTHER INVESTIGATION AND TAKING IT TO CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP VERIFIED THE OCCURRENCE OF A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE PCV CAUSING THIS FAILURE TO HAPPEN.. APPARENTLY AS I DROVE UP THAT BUSY HIGHWAY FROM WORK, MY VEHICLE WAS DISPERSING A VERY FIINE SPRAY OF OIL ON THE VEHICLES FOLLOWING ME, THE ROAD, AND THE ROADSIDE VEGETATION, APPROXIMATELY 5 QUARTS WORTH. THIS CREATED A VERY UNSAFE CONDITION FOR THE VEHICLE FOLLOWING ME AND RAISED SOME SERIOUS ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES. IN SPITE OF GM HAVING ISSUED A SPECIAL POLICY ON CERTAIN VEHICLES WHICH WOULD HAVE COVERED THIS REPAIR, I WAS TOLD MY VEHICLE WAS NOT ON THE LIST. I HAVE HAD THE REPAIR PERFORMED, BUT IF IT IS A KNOWN FAULTY DESIGN, GM SHOULD STAND BEHIND CORRECTING THE ISSUE AND IF I AM NOT ON THEIR LIST, THEY SHOULD EXPAND THE LIST. I HATE HAVING BEEN THE VEHICLE BEHIND CREATING AN UNSAFE SITUATION FOR OTHER DRIVERS AND FOR CONTAMINATING THE ROAD AND ROADSIDE WITH PETROLEUM WASTE. THE SPECIAL POLICY THAT DID NOT HAVE ME ON THE LIST WAS 14882 - SPECIAL COVERAGE ADJUSTMENT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. WHILE STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE KEY FAILED TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH AND THE TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS FAILED TO MAKE A CLICKING NOISE WHEN ACTIVATED. ADDITIONALLY, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START OCCASIONALLY AND THE SERVICE VEHICLE AND BRAKE WARNING INDICATORS WERE ILLUMINATED. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 84,000. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHE WAS UNABLE TO EJECT THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. THE CONTACT HAD TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AND MANUEVER THE STEERING WHEEL IN ORDER FOR THE KEY TO BE REMOVED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER AND DEALER WERE NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 47,000. *JS

KEY HAS GOTTEN STUCK IN IGNITION MULTIPLE TIMES. HAVE HAD TO DISCONNECT BATTERY AS THE CAR WAS STUCK IN ACCESSORY, AND THE BATTERY WAS STILL BEING DRAINED. HAVE NOT FOUND ANY SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM. TRIED DIFFERENT KEYS, MOVING STEERING WHEEL ETC. IT'S VERY FRUSTRATING AS WE HAVE ONLY HAD THE CAR FOR 6 MONTHS. THIS STARTED ABOUT 2-3 MONTHS AGO AND THE CAR WAS AT AROUND 82K MILES