2005 Chevrolet Suburban Complaint Log

The vehicle was idle for about 4 months. I took it to a carwash to clean the dust off. Upon returning (abt a 2 mile trip) the brakes failed and steam was coming out from under the hood. I opened the hood and brake fluid was sprayed all over the driver's side of the engine and wheel well. A brake line had rusted through and burst. Fortunately, I made it home carefully because I had noticed the brakes were soft.

The contact owns a 2005 Chevrolet Suburban. The contact stated upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for tire replacement, he was informed that the entire chassis was severely corroded. The dealer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the manufacturer for assistance. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 84,000.

Started with driver side heated seat randomly turning on and off. Going from high, medium, low. No way to turn it off just comes back on. Can hear clicking coming from under dash. Lift gate wiring that goes into body, ground wire burnt. (Replaced) but ground wire has power. (Wiring issue) so rear wiper doesn’t work. “Reading” Lamps only work when door is open. After replacing life gate connector, says lift gate open. Started the repair, which leads to more wiring issues! Needs a recall! Unsafe

Heated seats randomly turn on and off and goes thorugh the diffeent levels of heat and then off and then back on repeat for hours while driving and is very distracting as have to turn off every 10 sec and have almost crashed multiple times taking me eyes off the road but have to turn off as heat is too much in summer months, this is a known issue in almost ever suburban 01 to 05, how is this not a recall yet, there is massive amount of documentation of this issue online.

THE WIRING FOR THE LIGHTERS, POWER PORTS AND COMPUTER LINK MELTED. IT'S ALL PART OF THE UNDER-DASH WIRING HARNESS.

OIL PUMP OIL RINGS TO LEAD TO OIL PICKUP TUBE FAILED CAUSING DROP IN OIL PRESSURE. THIS HAPPENS WHEN DRIVING VEHICLE 2 HOURS PLUS.

AIR CONDITIONING WILL RANDOMLY SWITCH TO HOT AIR WHILE DRIVING. IF YOU STOP AND RESTART THE CAR AIR CONDITIONING WILL WORK AGAIN.

The speedometer issue started 1 year ago, the speedometer shows needle stuck on 0 or all the way down to right side. Now issues with the gas gauge and oil gauge are happening also Mechanic has checked on this and stated that replacement needed.

FIRST THE TRANSMISSION FAILED RIGHT AFTER I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE 2 YEARS AGO. I HAD TO BUY A NEW TRANSMISSION THAT WASN'T CHEAP AROUND $3,500. THEN THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS STARTED WITH THE RIGHT SIDE LAST YEAR JUST HAD A TON OF PLAY IN IT MY MECHANIC FOUND IT WHEN LIFTING UP MY TRUCK FOR A TIRE ROTATION. THEN THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL BEARING JUST STARTED MAKING A LOAD ROARING NOISE BUT HAD NO PLAY IN IT AT ALL THAT I COULD FEEL WHEN CHECKING IT OUT. BOTH COST AROUND $250 A WHEEL TO REPLACE. NOW MY 5.3 LITER ENGINE IS HAVING A KNOCKING SOUND WHEN AT A STOP AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 30 MINUTES OR WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. ALSO I AM HEARING A SLIGHT TICKING SOUND FROM THE ENGINE COLD OR HOT. I HAVE 4 SMALL KIDS SO I NEED A VERY RELIABLE LARGE VEHICLE AND THIS IS SUBURBAN IS DRIVING ME AND MY WIFE CRAZY HAVING TO POOR MONEY IN THIS VEHICLE EVERY YEAR. I AM THE SOIL PROVIDER FOR MY FAMILY I CANT AFFORD PUTTING ALL MY MONEY INTO A VEHICLE LIKE THIS.

ON 4/11/2020, WHILE TRAVELING NORTHBOUND ON N. MAIN STREET, FAYETTEVILLE, NC AND ACCELERATING FROM THE STOPLIGHT AT THE INTERSECTION OF CAMDEN ROAD, I WAS REQUIRED TO APPLY THE BRAKES FORCEFULLY AND SUDDENLY DUE TO THE ACTIONS OF ANOTHER MOTORIST. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY AFTER APPLYING THE BRAKES, I LOST ALL BRAKING POWER AND RESORTED TO UTILIZING THE MANUAL PARKING BRAKE TO BRING THE VEHICLE UNDER CONTROL AND DRIVE IT CAREFULLY BACK TO MY RESIDENCE. AT THE MOMENT OF FAILURE, THE DASHBOARD BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT (AKA, IDIOT LIGHT) ILLUMINATED AND A "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" MESSAGE APPEARED ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. THE BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT CONTINUED TO ILLUMINATE SPORADICALLY DURING THE TRIP BACK TO MY RESIDENCE WHEN TESTING THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR RESUMED FUNCTIONALITY. AFTER ARRIVING HOME, I PERFORMED A QUICK INSPECTION OF THE BRAKING SYSTEM AND FOUND THAT THE PORTION OF THE BRAKES LINES LOCATED ON THE OUTBOARD PORTION OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRAME RAIL HAD RUSTED AND PERFORATED NEAR THE ABS MODULE, CAUSING THE FAILURE ALONG WITH MASSIVE FLUID LOSS (SEE ATTACHED PICS). I PERFORMED A CURSORY INTERNET SEARCH AND DISCOVERED THAT THE NHTSA HAS ALREADY PERFORMED AN INVESTIGATION INTO THIS EXACT ISSUE AND THE INVESTIGATION WAS SUBSEQUENTLY CLOSED WITH NO RECALL ISSUED BY GM. OF NOTE, GM VEHICLES USE A MANUAL PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH LOCATED WITHIN THE BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE THAT ISOLATES THE DAMAGED CIRCUIT IN THE EVENT OF FAILURE AND ALSO ILLUMINATES THE DASHBOARD BRAKE LIGHT. THIS SYSTEM DID NOT OPERATE IN THIS INSTANCE AS EVIDENCED BY LOSING ALL BRAKING, AS OPPOSED TO REDUCED BRAKING, AS WELL AS THE BRAKE LIGHT NOT REMAINING ILLUMINATED. BASED ON THE APPEARANCE OF THE UNDERCARRIAGE AND INDICATION OF RUST IN SEVERAL SPOTS ON THE BODY (E.G, TAILGATE), I BELIEVE THIS TRUCK WAS OPERATED IN ONE OF THE RUST BELT STATES FOR A PERIOD OF TIME BY A PRIOR OWNER.

BRAKES GAVE OUT SUDDENLY WITHOUT WARNING.CHEVY DEALER SAID LINES ARE RUSTED AND NEED REPLACE AT COST OF $1600.ALSO JUST REPLACED STEERING GEAR BOX PITMAN ARM AND IDLER ARM AND WHEEL BEARING HUB AT A COST OF $2300 BECAUSE YOUR NUTS ON THE STEERING ASSEMBLY HAVE A TENDENCY TO COME OFF.

This defect pertains to gear indicator on the instrument panel. During the daylight hours the light indicating the gear the car is in (park, neutral, drive, etc.) is impossible to read. At night you can just barely read the gear indicators. The dimness of the lights behind this gear indicator gauge is a safety hazard because you cannot tell what gear you are in during the day. It is an expensive repair because the instrument panel needs to be removed to fix the problem.

Air bag sensors went out making air bag inoperable.

Gear status indicator does not display selected gear.

This vehicle has less than 84,000 miles on it, and the chassis or frame is rotted. The rear anti sway bar already rotted off it, and the front bar is hanging down on the passenger side. I have photos of this, but don't know how to download them. The body has a little rot here, and there, but that is repairable. I spent a lot of money in purchasing this vehicle, and I expected it to last a very long time. The interior is almost like new. I am thinking about putting a tort claim about this to GM. Please help me all you can. I forgot to write that I also spent extra money for it to be undercoated, and it is supposed to be a lifetime warranty. I called that company, and they said it was only for 10 years. When I buy a new vehicle, I expect it to last.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE EXPRESSWAY WHEN I HAD TO APPLY A STRONG FORCE TO THE BRAKES IN ORDER TO AVOID HITTING A VEHICLE. SIMULTANEOUSLY, THE SURBURBAN BRAKES BECAME VERY STIFF AND I LOST POWER STEERING AT THE SAME TIME. AFTER APPLYING AN EXTREME EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF FORCE I WAS ABLE TO STOP THE VEHICLE AND AVOID AN ACCIDENT. I HAD TO FIND THE NEAREST EXIT AND WHILE DOING SO IT WAS EXTREMELY HARD TO MAKE A 15 DEGREE TURN AND ALSO EXTREMELY HARD TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS AND I WAS SCARED FOR MY LIFE. I TOLD A MECHANIC ABOUT THIS AND HE SAID IT SOUND LIKE A BAD HYDRO BOOSTER. I LOOKED IT UP ONLINE AND SAW THAT THERE WAS A RECALL ON IT. WHEN I LOOKED IT UP IT SAID 0 OPEN. THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE. PLEASE HELP!.

Speedometer stops working intermittently. This is a safety hazard as the operator cannot tell the speed that the vehicle is operating. It seems to occur randomly.

I NOTICED CORRODED AND WHAT I WOULD CALL CHARRED OR BURNT WIRING ON THE WIRING HARNESS FOR THE REAR LIFT GATE OF MY SUBURBAN. I NOTICED IT WHEN I OPENED THE LIFT GATE TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE REAR OF THE SUBURBAN. IT APPEARS THAT THE RUBBER GROMMET MATERIAL PROTECTING THE WIRING HARNESS, WAS BURNT OR MELTED AWAY. THE RUBBER HOSE THAT SUPPLIES WATER TO THE REAR WINDOW WASHER/WIPER HAD A HOLE IN IT, AND MAY HAVE BEEN LEAKING WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID ONTO THE WIRES FOR A TIME. THE WIRES WERE BARE IN SOME SPOTS, SOME OF THE WIRE INSULATION LOOKED MELTED/BURNT AWAY, AND THEY LOOKED CORRODED/WITH A GREEN COLOR TO THEM. THE CONNECTOR THAT CONNECTS THE HARNESS, TO THE REST OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, LOOKED LIKE IT HAS SOME BLACK/ POSSIBLY BURNT RESIDUE ON IT. I CAN TAKE A GUESS AT BEST, THAT BECAUSE OF THE HOLE IN THE RUBBER HOSE, WATER MAY HAVE BEEN LEAKING ONTO THE ELECTRICAL WIRING/CONNECTIONS WHEN I USED THIS FEATURE TO CLEAR DIRT FROM THE LIFT GATE WINDOW, BUT I DON'T REALLY KNOW FOR SURE IF THAT IS HOW THE DAMAGE TO THE WIRING HARNESS HAS OCCURED! THANKS!

THE 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 2500 WAS TRAVELING ON A CITY STREET AND THE BRAKES BECAME SOFT INSTANTLY, A COLLISION WAS AVOIDED BY STEERING AWAY FROM THE CARS AT THE INTERSECTION AND THE EMERGENCY BRAKE WAS USED. THERE WAS NO WARNING ON THE SUDDEN FAILURE, OTHER THAN A INDICATOR ON THE DASH. A SHORT DRIVE TO THE HOME DRIVEWAY, THE REMAINING BRAKE FLUID HAS ALL LEAKED OUT UNDER THE DRIVERS DOOR LOCATION.

TRUCK DOOR IS NOT OPENING, FUEL GAS DEFECTIVE, REAR LIGHT SYSTEM HAS ELECTRICAL PROBLEM ALL THE TIMES, A/C SYSTEM ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.

IN MOTION ON CITY AND HIGHWAY

I HAD A RUSTED BRAKE LINE (DRIVER SIDE FRONT) FAIL JUNE 25TH, 2017. THIS TRUCK IS 12 YEARS OLD AND HAS LESS THAN 90,000 MILES. IMMEDIATELY ALL BRAKING WAS LOST AND THE PEDAL PUSHED TO THE FLOOR. REPEATED PRESSING THE BRAKE ONLY PUMPED OUT ALL THE BRAKE FLUID. THIS WAS A SUDDEN AND CATASTROPHIC LOSS OF BRAKING. THE WORST PART IS, BRAKING IS SUPPOSED TO BE SPLIT AND INDEPENDENT BETWEEN FRONT AND REAR BRAKES, SO IF YOU LOSE THE FRONT, THE REAR BRAKES STILL WORK, AND VICE VERSA. WELL I LOST ALL BRAKING, I HAD NO FRONT OR REAR BRAKING! THIS SHOULD BE A CLEAR SAFETY PROBLEM AND A MANDATORY RECALL! I CRASHED INTO THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME, BECAUSE OF COURSE MY EMERGENCY BRAKE DIDN'T WORK EITHER. DESPITE GM'S INSISTENCE THAT SOMEHOW THIS PREMATURE BRAKE LINE FAILURE IS NORMAL AND THE OWNER'S MAINTENANCE PROBLEM, IT SHOULD BE A VERY SIMPLE ISSUE FOR THE NHTSA TO SIMPLY OPEN A SINGLE BRAKE LINE AND TEST TO REALIZE THE AFFECTED VEHICLES DO IN FACT LOSE ALL BRAKING, NOT JUST FRONT OR REAR. I'VE ALREADY COMPLETELY LOST FAITH IN GM TO DO THE RIGHT THING, BUT I'D LIKE TO BELIEVE THE NHTSA WILL STILL DO THE RIGHT THING, AND NOT LET GM OFF WITH A CLEAR SAFETY PROBLEM WITH THEIR BRAKE DESIGN. THIS CRASH WAS PULLING UP TO THE STOPLIGHT IN PRESCOTT, WI, HEADING INTO TOWN ACROSS THE PRESCOTT BRIDGE. I WAS DRIVING MAYBE 30 MPH WHEN I REALIZED I HAD LOST ALL BRAKES.

ONE MORNING CAME OUT TO START MY 2005 SUBURBAN AND THE SERVICE AIRBAG MESSAGE POPPED ON ALONG WITH THE AIRBAG LIGHT. TOOK IT TO MY SERVICE CENTER AND WAS TOLD IT WAS A FRONT IMPACT SENSOR. WAS ALSO TOLD THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON THESE VEHICLES. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH ONLINE I HAVE FOUND THIS TO BE A VERY COMMON PROBLEM RENDERING THE AIRBAG SYSTEM INOP. I BELIEVE GM NEEDS TO STEP UP AND FIX THE ISSUE WITH THE SENSORS AS NOT EVERYONE HAS $400 TO FIX A FAULTY SENSOR. THE ODOMETER ON MY SUBURBAN IS 127,000 MILES, SO BY NO MEANS DRIVEN HARD.

DRIVER SIDE SEAT HEATER RANDOMLY COMES ON AND GOES OFF. MAJORITY OF THE TIME THE HEATER STAYS ON CONSTANTLY AND BECOMES UNCOMFORTABLE. THIS HAPPENS MORE ESPECIALLY IN WET CONDITIONS AND WHEN YOU ATTEMPT TO TURN THE HEATED SEAT OFF, THE CONTROLS WON'T WORK. THIS ISSUE HAPPENS WHEN THE SUV IS STARTED, CONTINUES WHILE IDLING AND WHILE DRIVING. SOME DAYS IT IS HOURS BEFORE IT WILL GO OFF. OTHER DAYS IT WILL NOT GO OFF. THE SCARY THING IS YOU CAN HEAR THE DASHBOARD CLICKING WHEN THE HEATER TURNS ON AND OFF, CONSTANTLY CYCLING THOUGH HIGH TO LOW, BACK OF SEAT TO BOTTOM OF THE SEAT. ADJUSTING THE SEAT IN ANY WAY DOES NOT HELP. I THINK THIS IS A CONCERN DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT TURNS OFF AND ON AND YOU CAN HEAR IT CYCLE THROUGH. IT'S ALSO A MAJOR CONCERN BECAUSE THE HEAT STAYS ON WITHOUT ANY WAY TO TURN IT OFF. THIS STARTED A WEEK AFTER I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE AND HAS CONTINUED SINCE OCTOBER 2016.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND TRAVELED TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE CONTACT HAD TO APPLY THE EMERGENCY BRAKE AND VEERED THE VEHICLE TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD, WHICH ALLOWED THE VEHICLE TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED BY ONSTAR TO DENOOYER CHEVROLET (127 WOLF RD, ALBANY, NY 12205, (518) 458-7700) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BRAKE LINES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 111,795.

2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1500 4X4 FLEX FUEL, 5.3L. THIS VEHICLE'S INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DOES NOT WORK. TACHOMETER PEGS AND STICKS. THE SPEEDOMETER IS STUCK AT ZERO. THIS IS A VERY SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERN THAT GENERAL MOTORS/GM SHOULD DO A FREE RECALL FOR AS MANY OWNERS OF THIS VEHICLE HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS. MY ABS SENSOR LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF NUMEROUS TIMES A DAY, AND CLUSTER STATES SERVICE AIR BAG. GENERAL MOTORS SHOULD ALSO FIX THIS FOR FREE UNDER A RECALL AS OTHERS HAVE THE SAME ISSUE WITH THIS VEHICLE. MY THIRD MAJOR COMPLAINT, IS THE VEHICLE STARTING PROBLEM/HARD START. IT TAKES TWO TURNS OF THE ENGINE FOR THE VEHICLE TO TURN ON AND STAY RUNNING. I HAVE RESEARCHED THIS ON VARIOUS SEARCH ENGINES, FORUMS, AND INCLUDING RECALL.GOV. GENERAL MOTORS SHOULD ADDRESS THIS ISSUES AS WELL UNDER A RECALL. GM INSTALLED FAULTY FUEL PUMPS OR FUEL PUMPS WITH FAULTY COMPONENTS IN THEM. A VEHICLE SHOULD START WITH ONE TRY. I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO GET THE FUEL PRESSURE GOING IN THE ON POSITION, OR CRANK IT TWICE FOR MY TRUCK TO START.

IT WOULDN'T LET ME PICK TIRES I HAVE A SET OF 4 BRIDGESTONE DEULER H/L AND THE TIRES HAVE 2 TIRES HAVE 6/32 OF TREAD AND THE OTHER 2 HAD 8/32 AND ON ALL 4 TIRES THE BELTS ARE SEPARATING !!! I USED TO HAVE A CDL LICENSE AND DRIVE TOW TRUCKS AND IF I GOT PULLED OVER BY THE STATE WHETHER IT BE BY D.O.T. OR STATE POLICE I WOULD RECEIVE TICKETS AND POSSIBLY BE STUCK AT WEIGH STATION WAITING FOR A TIRE REPAIR SERVICE TO SHOW UP !!

REAR BRAKE LINE FAILED. MY WIFE AND KIDS WERE IN THE 2005 SUBURBAN 1500, SHE MANAGED TO PRESS THE EBRAKE THEN TURN THE SUBURBAN INTO SOMEONE'S FRONT YARD WHERE IT EVENTUALLY CAME TO REST ON A HILL. SHE WAS HEADED DOWNHILL ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET AT THE TIME OF FAILURE. TOOK TO HUNDRU CHEV IN MANHEIM PA I WAS TOLD THE REPAIR WILL BE SOMEWHERE AROUND $2300.00

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO USE THE REAR HATCH OF THE VEHICLE, THE REAR HATCH FAILED TO OPEN. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 136,210.

I TURNED MY 2005 SUBURBAN ON AND THE AIR BAG LIGHT CAME ON. I TOOK IT IN TO THE CHEVY/GM DEALER WHO SAID, "THE RIGHT, FRONT, AIR BAG SENSOR WAS THE CAUSE." IT WOULD COST $375 TO FIX IT. I DID NOT GET IT FIXED AT THAT TIME. IT IS DANGEROUS BECAUSE THE AIR BAGS ARE INOPERABLE. THE PROBLEM OCCURRED AT ABOUT 150,000 MILES. FROM WHAT I HAVE SEEN THIS IS A HUGE PROBLEM THAT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESS BY THE COMPANY.

AS I WAS ABOUT TO EXIT A PARKING LOT ONTO A FOUR LANE ROADWAY, THE BRAKES ON MY 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN FAILED. I LIVED APPROXIMATELY 1/2 MILE FROM THIS LOCATION AND PROCEEDED TO DRIVE HOME. IT WAS A LITTLE SCAREY WITHOUT ANY STOPPING POWER, EVEN THE EMERGENCY BAKE WOULD NOT HOLD. WHEN I GOT HOME, I USED A FLASHLIGHT TO TRY TO FIND THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. FOUND A PATTERN OF BRAKE FLUID LEAKING. REMOVED THE SPARE TIRE TO GET A BETTER LOOK AND FOUND A BRAKE LINE BETWEEN THE ABS AND REAR OF THE VEHICLE HAD RUSTED OUT. FROM THE LOOKS OF THE LINE CONDITION, THEY NEED TO BE ALL REPLACED. NEVER IN MY 70 YEARS HAVE I SEEN BRAKE LINES ON A TEN YEAR OLD VEHICLE LOOK LIKE THEY DID, REALLY IN BAD SHAPE. LOOKED AT OTHER LINES, FUEL, TRANSMISSION, THEY ALL LOOKED LIKE THEY SHOULD BE REPLACED.

THE REAR LIFTGATE WILL NOT UNLOCK. THERE IS NO MANUAL RELEASE OR "KEY BYPASS" FOR THE REAR LIFTGATE LOCK. THIS PRESENTS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE IN CASE OF FIRE OR CRASH.

AFTER RUNNING VEHICLE, GAS RUNS DOWN SIDES FROM TOP OF FUEL TANK, AND DRIPS UNDER VEHICLE. CONTINUES TO DRIP IF CAR IDLES. STOPS IF CAR IS SHUT OFF. STRONG SMELL OF FUEL AFTER DRIVING VEHICLE

BEGAN HEARING A "WHINING" NOISE UNDER THE VEHICLE. NOISE WAS PROGRESSIVELY LOUDER AT ACCELERATED SPEEDS. LEFT VEHICLE AT LOCAL CHEVROLET DEALER (CA) WHO DID AN INSPECTION AND DIAGNOSED A MECHANICAL ISSUE POSSIBLY WITH THE DIFFERENTIAL [REF. CLAIM CHECK 175]. SERVICE WRITER STATED ESTIMATED REPAIR COST FOR AN OVERHAUL WAS $3,000 VS. HIGHER COSTS TO REPLACE WITH USED OR NEW DIFFERENTIAL. SERVICE WRITER FURTHER INDICATED CONTINUED DRIVING COULD CAUSE FURTHER DAMAGE AND ADDED COST IF AXLE WAS ALSO AFFECTED. DECIDED TO TAKE VEHICLE TO A RECOGNIZED POWERTRAIN REPAIR FACILITY WHO DETERMINED (ALSO WITH A DRIVE TEST) THAT THE DIFFERENTIAL WAS THE PROBLEM AND GAVE INITIAL $1,200 ESTIMATE. AUTHORIZED REPAIR. FINAL COST WAS $813 AND INCLUDES 1 YEAR FULL WARRANTY. NOW RUNS SMOOTH / QUIET WHEN DRIVING. TECHNICIAN INDICATED THAT ALTHOUGH FLUID LEVEL WAS GOOD (SEALED AT FACTORY), A RING INSIDE THE DIFFERENTIAL WAS BAD (HAD BECOME PITTED AND COULD HAVE CAUSED FURTHER ISSUES IF UNCHECKED. CHANGED OUT RING AND BEARINGS BUT ALL OTHER COMPONENTS INCLUDING CASING WERE FINE. TECHNICIAN STATED SUCH WEAR IS UNCOMMON FOR A VEHICLE WITH ONLY 126K MILES AND WITH NO TOWING ON FACTORY TOW PACKAGE. IS THIS AN ANNOMILY OR ARE THERE OTHER CASES OF BAD PARTS IN DIFFERENTIAL FOR THIS MAKE / MODEL? WOULD LIKE TO DISCUSS FURTHER WITH GM ZONE REP. BUT NO RESPONSE!!!

WHILE DRIVING AROUND TOWN I NOTICED MY BRAKES FEELING MUSHY AND THE PEDAL NEEDING TO BE PRESSED FURTHER INTO THE FLOORBOARD. MY "CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM" LIGHT CAME ON AND UPON INSPECTION NOTICED THAT I WAS LOW ON BRAKE FLUID. I FILLED THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR TO THE MAX LINE. THE NEXT DAY THE SAME WARNING LIGHT CAME ON AND I FURTHER INSPECTED THE BRAKE LINES TO FIND THAT THE LINES FROM THE ABS BOX TO THE REAR HAD RUSTED OUT AND WERE LEAKING BADLY. *TR

THE SPEEDOMETER NEEDLE BEGAN "CATCHING," NOT MOVING SMOOTHLY. AFTER ABOUT 2 WEEKS IT WOULD NOT RESET TO 0 WHEN STOPPED THEN AFTER 1 MORE DAY IT QUIT REGISTERING COMPLETELY.

TACH AND SPEEDOMETER NOT WORKIN

HAD SERVICED THE TRANSFER CASE AND HAD TAKEN IT BACK TWICE NOW BESIDES A NOISE LIKE THAT OF A POWER STEERING PUMP GOING BAD ( WHINING ) , HAD A TURNING CLUNK NOISE COMING AND AT A STOP LIGHT I SAW SMOKE COMING FROM PASSENGER SIDE, GOT TO PARK IT AND SMELLED LIKE SOMETHING IS BURNING .BRING IT BACK TO SEE IF THE MECHANIC WILL WORK ON IT SINCE IT HASN'T BEEN 30 DAYS. PLEASE NOTIFY ME OF ANYTHING DO TO THE TRANSFER CASE. *TR

WE BOUGHT OUR CHEVY SUBURBAN IN MAY OF 2014, 73,000 MILES, GARAGE KEPT VEHICLE. THE SUBURBAN IS IN BEAUTIFUL SHAPE, ENGINE COMPARTMENT SHOWS VERY LITTLE SIGNS OF RUST OR CORROSION, SAME GOES FOR THE UNDERSIDE OF THE VEHICLE, VERY CLEAN. THIS PAST WEEKEND WHILE TRAVELING DOWN A LARGE HILL, MY WIFE HAD OUR TWO BOYS WITH HER IN THE VEHICLE AGES 5 AND 7 WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE BRAKES GAVE OUT COMPLETELY, NO BRAKING POWER AT ALL. IF IT WASN'T FOR THE EMERGENCY BRAKE THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN SERIOUSLY HURT OR WORSE. UPON INSPECTION OF THE VEHICLE WE FOUND THAT THE BRAKE LINES ARE COMPLETELY ROTTED, THE ONLY PART ON THE VEHICLE THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS. WE KNOW WHO OWNED THE VEHICLE BEFORE US, ONE OWNER, AND SHE DID NOT DRIVE THIS VEHICLE VERY OFTEN IN WINTER WEATHER. SHE WORKS FOR A SCHOOL DISTRICT AND HAS OFF WHEN IT SNOWS. SHE ALSO HAD AN OLDER CAR THAT SHE DROVE WHEN THE WEATHER AND ROADS WERE BAD. THESE BRAKE LINES ARE FAULTY. THERE IS NO WAY THESE BRAKE LINES SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS AFTER 9 YEARS ON THE ROAD. MY NEIGHBOR HAS A 2005 YUKON AND HAS THE SAME PROBLEM. MY FRIEND [XXX] HAS A 2003 GMC PICKUP, SAME PROBLEM, HE ALMOST CRASHED INTO A LAKE WHEN HIS BRAKE LINES FAILED. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ABOUT THIS AND FAST AS PEOPLE ARE GOING TO GET KILLED. I HAVE PICTURES I CAN SHARE WITH ANYONE WHO WANTS TO SEE THEM. YOU CAN ALSO CONTACT ME AT ANY TIME. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

MY 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN HAS RUSTED BRAKES LINES THAT WILL COST ME $2,000 TO REPAIR. INTERESTINGLY I SEE MANY NATIONAL ARTICLES ABOUT THE PROBLEM AND A SIGNIFICANT NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS FILED. GM HAS REFUSED TO ISSUE A RECALL TO COVER THIS DANGEROUS PROBLEM; OTHER AUTOMAKERS HAVE DONE SO. THE NHTSA HAS BEEN INVESTIGATING THIS FOR WELL OVER 3 YEARS AND DONE NOTHING ABOUT IT TO DATE. I DON'T HAVE $2,000 TO HAVE THE WORK DONE, HOWEVER I ALSO CAN'T RISK THE LIVES OF MY FAMILY AND THOSE OF OTHER DRIVERS AND PEDESTRIANS. THIS PROBLEM NEEDS IMMEDIATE ACTION AND GM SHOULD TAKE FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE REPAIR. PRIOR TO THIS I WOULD CONSIDER BUYING ANOTHER SUBURBAN, HOWEVER, NO MORE GM FOR ME! ITS A DISGRACE THE GM DOES NOT VALUE ITS CUSTOMERS AND THEIR SAFETY AND THAT THE NHTSA HAS NOT STEPPED UP TO FORCE A RECALL. JUST HOW MANY PEOPLE HAVE TO BE SERIOUSLY INJURED OR DIE FOR ACTION TO OCCUR? *TR

FRONT BRAKE LINE FAILURE/BRAKE LINE RUPTURE. 6 MONTHS AGO IT WAS THE REAR BRAKE LINE FAILURE/RUPTURE. BRAKE FLUID CAUSED SMOKE AND SMALL FIRE ON THE EXHAUST HEADERS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN TURNING THE VEHICLE OFF THE ENGINE FAN FAILED TO TURN OFF. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE TWO WHEEL OR FOUR WHEEL DRIVE LIGHT FAILED TO ILLUMINATE. THE FAILURE PREVENTED THE CONTACT OF KNOWING WHICH GEAR THE VEHICLE WAS IN. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

HAD TO REPLACE SECOND FAULTY IMPACT SENSOR FOR AIR BAG ON MY VEHICLE. THIS IS LOCATED IN FRONT OF VEHICLE. THE FIRST REPLACEMENT OF THE OTHER SENSOR WAS JULY 26, 2013. THIS VEHICLE WAS NEVER IN A CRASH AND HAD NOT DAMAGE TO THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. WHEN THE AIR BAG COMES ON THEY TELL ME MY AIR BAGS NO LONGER WORK. MY FAMILY HAS A 2000 CHEVROLET TAHOE THAT HAS NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM. I AM SURE THERE IS A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO WOULD NOT HAVE THIS ITEM FIXED. *TR

THE FRONT AIRBAG SENSOR HAS FAILED AND THE AIRBAGS ARE NO LONGER OPERABLE. THIS APPEARS TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE YEAR AND MODEL OF CHEVY TRUCK. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL ITEM DUE TO ITS IMPACT ON SAFETY. GIVEN THE LOW MILEAGE THERE IS NO LEGITIMATE REASON FOR THIS PART TO FAIL. *TR

FIRST INCIDENT EASTERN PA: 05/19/2014 APROX 119000 MILES: AFTER HITTING THE BRAKES HARD TO AVOID A VEHICLE THAT PULLED IN FRONT OF ME, THE BRAKES FAILED (BRAKE PEDAL WOULD GO TO THE FLOOR WITH LITTLE BRAKING ACTION). MANAGED TO SAFELY STOP. FOUND BURST BRAKE LINE IN THE REAR END OF VEHICLE. TWO REAR CORRODED REAR BRAKE LINES REPLACED BY LOCAL REPAIR SHOP. SECOND INCIDENT MILFORD MA: 09/17/2015 127336 MILES: HIT BRAKES GOING DOWN DRIVEWAY. BRAKES WERE SOFT AND SANK TO FLOOR. BRAKE LINE GOING TO FRONT PASSENGER WHEEL WAS BURST. ALL THE BRAKE FLUID DRAINED QUICKLY OUT OF THE MASTER CYLINDER ONTO THE DRIVEWAY. ORDERED ACDELCO 22932592 GM ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT HYDRAULIC BRAKE PIPE KIT AND AM IN THE PROCESS OF REPLACING ALL BRAKE LINES AS ALL OF THEM OTHER THAN THE TWO REPLACED IN PA ARE VERY CORRODED. THE REPLACEMENT LINES ARE NOT REALLY OEM AS THEY HAVE A NYLON COATING FOR BETTER CORROSION PROTECTION

WHILE DRIVING THE DRIVER SIDE HEATED SEATS INGAUGE BY THEMSELVES AND COME ON EVERY TIME WE USE THE VEHICLE. WE HAVE TRIED TURNING THEM BACK OFF, BUT THEY COME RIGHT BACK ON AND WILL CYCLE UP AND DOWN A FEW TIMES THEN STAY IN THE HIGH POSITION. I THOUGHT AT FIRST THAT MY HUSBAND WAS ACCIDENTALLY TURNING THEM ON BUT HE WASN'T. IT DOES IT ALL THE TIME. THERE IS NO RYHME OR REASON TO IT. ITS VERY DISTRACTING TRYING TO TURN THEM OFF OVER & OVER AGAIN. I COULD SEE WHERE IT COULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE. I RESEARCH END ON THE INTERNET AND HAVE SEEN HUNDREDS OF POST ON THE SAME ISSUE. NONE OF THEM HELPED WITH A SOULOUTIN TO THE PROBLEM. I PUT MY VIN # IN TO SEE IF THEIR WERE ANY RECALLS ON THIS ISSUE. AND COULDN'T FIND ONE. MY QUESTION IS WHY? WITH AS MANY COMPLAINTS AS THERE ARE ONLINE. NOT SURE IF THEY WERE NOT COMPLAINING HERE ABOUT IT BUT NOW AT LEAST I HAVE. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHOSE DRIVING IT, WHEATER ISN'T A FACTOR EITHER. IN TOWN OR HIGHWAY MAKES NO DIFFERENCE HELP PLEASE

2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VEHICLE ODOMETER PROBLEMS. *SMD THE CONSUMER BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE SPEEDOMETER APPROXIMATELY 2 YEARS AGO. INTERMITTENTLY, THE NEEDLE ON THE ODOMETER WOULD CLIMB ABOVE THE ACTUAL SPEED HE WAS TRAVELING, THEN MOVE UP AND DOWN TENS OF MILES ABOVE THE ACTUAL SPEED, AT TIMES, IT WOULD RISE TO 120 AND REMAIN THERE. WHEN HE TURNED THE VEHICLE OFF AND ON AGAIN, IT WORKED FINE, UNTIL THE NEXT TIME. *JP

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH, THE ABS LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND THERE WAS A RATTLING NOISE COMING FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE KEY WOULD NOT ALWAYS TURN THE VEHICLE ON. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER BUT THE CONTACT REFUSED TO HAVE THE VEHICLE DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 118,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE 118,500.

SPEEDOMETER STAYED AT SPEED I WAS DRIVING WHEN I STOPPED THE CAR. WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR IT DID NOT RETURN TO ZERO BUT STARTED AT LAST SPEED I WAS DRIVING, THEN INCREASE FROM THERE. SPEEDOMETER FINALLY STAYED AT 100 MPH, IT DID NOT RETURN TO ZERO AND I WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE SPEED OF CAR WHEN DRIVING. RPM ALSO MALFUNCTION, IT STAYED AT 1.5 WHEN DRIVING AND DIDN'T VARY WHEN I INCREASED OR DECREASED MY SPEED. HAD TO HAVE IT REPLACED AS I COULD NOT DETERMINE SPEED I WAS DRIVING. NO OFFICIAL RECALL, ONLY A CLASS ACTION SUIT. MY MAKE/MODEL/YEAR WAS PART OF THE CARS AFFECTED IN THE SUIT, ONLY I DIDN'T QUALIFY FOR REIMBURSEMENT OF REPAIR BECAUSE THE PROBLEM OCCURRED OUTSIDE OF THE 7 YEAR 80,000 MILE PARAMETER GM SET UP FOR REIMBURSEMENT. *TR