2000 Dodge Durango Complaint Log

The contact owns a 2000 Dodge Durango. The contact stated that the ABS warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that while driving 20 MPH, the vehicle was slow to stop. While depressing the brake pedal, there was an abnormal grinding sound coming from the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the residence. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 164,731.

I was just driving then out of nowhere. No warning No lights inmitted on dash no idea the engine will shut off. Replace alternator, Battery,Starter,3 PCM,still no luck. Noticed that PCM could have been the so that's why I went through 3 of em. New ,Use ,and Refurbish one. The dealership mechanic noticed that PCM would shut off and henced (no bus) would illuminate. Happened quite often scary part is that no warning of any source would appear on freeway residential anywhere. Engine will shut off while driving.

The outside edge of the tread is separating from the tire causing it to go flat.

The contact owns a 2000 Dodge Durango. The contact stated that while driving approximately 25 MPH the vehicle inadvertently stopped. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was towed to a local mechanic. The contact replaced the battery, fuel pump, shocks, ball joints, and disc brakes, and front rotors however, the failure recurred. The local mechanic was unable to determine the cause of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 115,000.

One morning I was taking my 9-year-old daughter to school and our truck just stalled while I was driving. Thank Allah that there was no heavy traffic and no one got hurt. That incident has my daughter scared. I took it to the mechanic they read the diagnostic fixed what codes came up and still my truck is not operating properly. The truck still stalls while driving the mechanic has informed me. I have had my IAC, MAP sensor, TPS, ignition coil, distributor, and canister purge valve replaced.

The contact owns a 2000 Dodge Durango. The contact stated while driving 5 MPH, she heard an abnormal noise coming from the front driver’s side tire. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact exited the vehicle and stated that the front driver’s side wheel was detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was not drivable. The contact towed the vehicle to an independent mechanic, and she was informed that the ball joint, tie rod, and wheel spindle needed to be replaced. Additionally, the vehicle would need a front wheel alignment. The vehicle was repaired. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 240,000.

I WAS IN THE FREEWAY RUNNING 65 MILES/HOUR AND SUDDENLY MY DURANGO JUST STALLED AND ENGINE JUST SHUT OFF WITHOUT WARNING.THERE WAS NO CODE SHOWING UP. I BROUGHT TO MECHANIC AND UNABLE TO FIND THE PROBLEM. THERE ARE TIMES THAT IT WILL SHUT OFF THE ENGINE AND I HAVE TO WAIT FOR 15-20 MINUTES AND IT WILL START AGAIN. THEN AFTERWARDS, IT WILL DIE AGAIN. HELP!!!!!

SHUTS OFF ENGINE WHEN YOUR DRIVING FOR NO APPARENT REASON. THE ODOMETER HAS A NO BUS READING ON IT. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS! THANKS FOR ANY HELP. *TR

I WAS DRIVING AT 55 MPH AND THE STEERING BECAME REALLY LOOSE AND NEARLY LOST CONTROL HAD TO REPLACE THE BALL JOINTS 3 TIMES AND I HAVE NO POWER ON THE DRIVER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE THAT MEANS THE DOOR LOCKS AND WINDOWS. *TR

CAR GIVEN TO ME BY A FAMILY MEMBER IN NOV 2019 WITH 135K MILES, WAS THE ORIGINAL OWNER, VEHICLE WAS VERY WELL MAINTAINED. APPROXIMATELY FEB 2020, DRIVING 70 MPH DOWN INTERSTATE, CAR ACTED LIKE IT DIED-LOST ALL POWER FOR ABOUT 10 SECS, THEN IT CAME BACK TO LIFE. IT WAS ABOUT A MONTH LATER, IT DID IT AGAIN. MECHANIC REPLACED THROTTLE BODY POSITION SENSOR(?). SOON AFTER, VEHICLE STARTED TO JUST DIE WHILE DRIVING. NO NOISE, RATTLES, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS, JUST WOULD SHUT OFF LIKE THE KEY WAS TURNED OFF. DIDN'T MATTER THE TERRAIN OR SPEED, JUST WHILE DRIVING. INITIALLY IT WOULD IMMEDIATELY RESTART. IT SEEMS TO HAVE GOTTEN WORSE SINCE THE HOTTER WEATHER. AND IT SHUTS DOWN AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 20 MINS WHEN THE ENGINE HAS REALLY WARMED UP. I FINALLY NOTICED A NO BUS MESSAGE ON THE ODOMETER-WHICH FROM RESEARCHING MEANS THE COMPUTER ISN'T COMMUNICATING. MECHANIC UNABLE TO PULL A CODE, SAID IT'S CLEARING ITSELF OUT RIGHT AFTER IT THROWS IT. TODAY WENT IN, AND WE GOT LUCKY AND HOOKED MACHINE WHILE CAR WAS RUNNING AND IT DIED. AND THE SCANNER WOULD NOT RECOGNIZE NOR COMMUNICATE WITH THE PCM. NUMEROUS ISSUES WITH DODGE/CHRYSLER VEHICLES FOR THIS EXACT SAME PROBLEM. AND IT DOESN'T SEEM TO HAVE A SINGLE FIX FOR IT. SOME A NEW PCM WORKED, SOME OTHER SENSORS, ONE SAID JUST LOOSENING THE SCREWS ON THE PCM WORKED FOR HIM, SOME NOTHING WORKED. THIS IS SO DANGEROUS, CAR JUST SHUTTING OFF WITHOUT WARNING WHILE YOU'RE DRIVING. I CAN NOT BELIEVE THIS HASN'T BEEN A RECALL ISSUE AFTER 20 YEARS. I SEE A LOT OF THIS MODEL OF VEHICLE ON THE ROAD STILL, BUT IT DOESN'T SEEM LIMITED TO JUST THE DURANGOS EITHER. IT ALMOST SEEMS AS IF SOMETHING NEAR THE PCM OR THE WIRES TO IT ARE GETTING TOO HOT AND CAUSING AN ISSUE OR EVEN BURNING OUT THE PCM. DID A RESET BY UNHOOKING BATTERY CABLE, AND THE CAR RESTARTED THIS LAST TIME. THIS IS DANGEROUS FOR EVERYONE.

VEHICLE STALLS WITHOUT WARNING. MAY STALL MULTIPLE TIMES SAME DAY, THEN NOT FOR A FEW WEEKS. VEHICLE MAY BE HOT OR COLD, AND OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE DOESN'T SEEM TO AFFECT STALLING. TURNING OR DRIVING STRAIGHT. PUBLIC STREET OR STRAIGHT AS IN USING DRIVEWAY. STATIONARY, MAY START THEN STALL, OR WHILE IN MOTION. NOT ONE DATE - ALL THE TIME. DATE BELOW IS IS JUST TO FILL IN THE BLANK.

BASICALLY, FOR EACH PROBLEM I'M HAVING EITHER MY TRUCK SHUTS OFF WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED OR IN THE MIDDLE OF TURNING (ELECTRICAL STABILITY). RADIATOR FAN FUSE BLOWS EACH TIME ITS SUPPOSE TO COME ON (ENGINE) AND CAR SHAKES WHILE DRIVING OR EXACT WHAT NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID: 08E064000 STATES.

DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND THE TRUCK RANDOMLY DIES. SHUTS OFF. NO POWER ANYTHING. THREW IT IN NEUTRAL AND STARTED BACK UP. HAS DONE THIS ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS.

THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE BALL JOINTS OF THE VEHICLE I OWN BUT I WAS TOLD THAT THE RECALL IS CLOSED. I BELIEVE THAT IT SHOULD BE COVERED FOR REPAIR BECAUSE I WASN'T MADE AWARE OF ANY RECALLS WHEN I OBTAINED THE VEHICLE. THE UPPER BALL JOINTS ARE BAD AND A MECHANIC TOLD ME IT COULD BREAK OFF.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED WHILE DRIVING AT HIGH SPEEDS OR STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT OR STOP SIGN. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THERE WAS A LOOSE WIRE IN THE VEHICLE'S COMPUTER. HE WAS ABLE TO PLUG THE WIRE BACK IN AND THE VEHICLE WOULD RESTART. HOWEVER, THE WIRING WOULD BECOME LOOSE AGAIN AND THE FAILURE WOULD RECUR. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 136,000.

ALL OF THE SUDDEN AL ELECTRICAL WENT HAYWIRE . NO TURN SIGNALS, ALL ELECTRICAL IS MESSED UP. I WAS IN THE CITY IN HEAVY TRAFFIC . VERY UNSAFE FOR ME AND OTHER DRIVERS

I PAID APRX $400 FOR NEW TIRES MAY 18 2018. ON 6/29 ON HIGHWAY I HAD A BLOW OUT. HAD TO FIND A WALMART IN DAPHNE AL TO GET NEW TIRE. THEY SAID OH MAYBE FROM THE HEAT AND KEPT MAKING EXCUSES BUT BOTTOM LINE TIRES WERE ABOUT A MONTH OLD WAS NO REASON THAT SHOULD HAPPENED. SO WE REPLACED THE TIRE AND WOULDNT LET ME KEEP BLOWN OUT ONE FOR PROOF. NOW PAST COUPLE WEEKS THR SAME TIRE THEY REPLACED HAS BEEN GETTING LOW OVER AND OVER. TODAY GO OUT AND BASICALLY WAS FLAT TO RIM . I GO GET AIR AND SEE BUBBLES FROM IN BETWEEN TREADS THANKS TO UT BEING WET OUTSIDE. COME TO WALMART AGAIN AND NOW FIGHT BEGINS BECAUSE I SHOULDN'T HAVE TO PAY FOR A TIRE A THIRD TIME OBVIOUSLY THEY ARE DEFECTIVE AND NEED RECALLED! LUCKIKY FIRST TIME WE DIDN'T GET HURT OR CAUSE ACCIDENT WHILE DOING 70MPH ON HIGHWAY. SECOND TIME SAME TIRE LUCKILY MY SISTER NOTICED IT BEFORE WE GOT ON HIGHWAY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNKNOWN SPEED, THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN UNKNOWN DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL SWITCH, FUEL GAUGE, AND ALTERNATOR FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 187,000.

ROOF RACK IS MADE OF PLASTIC. THERE ARE NO REINFORCEMENT BARS EMBEDDED IN THE PLASTIC. WHEN LUGGAGE OR PLASTIC KAYAKS ARE MOUNTED TO THE TOP, THE ROOF RACK BREAKS - LEADING TO POOR ANCHORAGE OF MATERIALS ON THE TOP ROOF AND DEATH OR INJURY TO THE PASSENGERS IN THE FOLLOWING VEHICLES. THIS EVENT HAPPENED WHERE THE ROOF RACK CAME APART AND DAMAGED THE DURANGO AND POTENTIALLY THE CAR FOLLOWING. WE WALKED THE TRUCK TO THE CLOSEST AUTOZONE AND THE MANAGER HELPED US BY USING METAL TIE BANDS TO SECURE IT.

WHEN DRIVING FOE 10 MILES. ENGINE SHUTS OFF. LOOSE ALL POWER. NEW PCM. SAME RESULTS.

DRIVING ON GLENDALE AZ AND HIT THE BRAKES AND THE REAR BRAKES LOCK AND ALMOST LOST CONTROL OF MY VEHICLE , SEARCH ON LIKE FOR CAUSES AND FOUND A RECALL F05 ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM , CALL THE DEALERSHIP BUT THERE'S NO RECALL FOR MY VEHICLE.

SLIDING MY DRIVER SEAT BACK AND FRONT WHEN BRAKING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS PULLED OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE FAILURE RECURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SENSORS WERE REPLACED (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, CRANKSHAFT, SPEED CAM, AIC, SPARK PLUG WIRES, ROTORS AND DISTRIBUTOR CUP, DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR, IGNITION COIL, MAP SENSOR). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 138,000.

I WAS IN LINE AT A DRIVE THRU RESTUARANT WHEN I SMELLED SMOKE GOT OUT OF THE VEHICLE AND SAW FLAMES POURING FROM UNDER THE FRONT OF THE CAR, I YELLED FOR THE PEOPLE IN FRONT OF ME TO MOVE AND MOVED THE CAR TO A SAFER PLACE IN THE PARKING LOT. SINCE I HAD LEFT ALL BELONGINGS INCLUDING MY PHONE ASSISTANCE WAS REQUESTED FROM SPECTATORS TO CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WHO CAME AND PUT THE FIRE OUT, BY THEN THERE WASN NOT MUCH LECT UNDER THE HOOD AS IT HAD ALL BURNED.

A FEW MONTHS BACK, THE FRONT DRIVER'S SEAT BEGAN TO SLIDE FORWARD WHEN BRAKING AND THEN BACK ONCE STARTING UP AGAIN -- WHETHER CITY STREET OR FREEWAY DRIVING. IT FEELS LIKE IT MOVES AN INCH OR SO. IT IS A 2000. IT BEGAN BEFORE 78,000 MILES. I PURCHASED THE CAR FROM PARENTS IN 2010 AND IT DID NOT HAVE ANY ISSUES UNTIL SUDDENLY IT MOVED WHEN BRAKING. SEAT SHOULD BE STABLE. I SEE THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE WITH THIS MODEL.

DRIVERS POWER SEAT 'SLACK". WHEN YOU APPLY BRAKES TO STOP, THE SEAT SLIDES FORWARD THEN RETURNS BACK AFTER THE STOPPING MOTION ENDS. THIS AFFECTS THE DRIVERS SEAT POSITION AND BRAKING ACTION. IN AN ACCIDENT THIS WILL PUT THE DRIVER CLOSER TO THE STEERING WHEEL AND AIR BAG. SUSPENSION- DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY , IF YOU ENCOUNTER BUMPY OR ROUGH ROADS ON A CURVE THE CAR WILL SOMETIMES SLIP SIDEWAYS A BIT, IT'S ENOUGH TO STARTLE YOU FOR A MOMENT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 55 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE RESTARTED AFTER DISABLING THE PCM WIRES. THE FAILURE RECURRED WHENEVER THE VEHICLE WAS IN OPERATION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR, CAMSHAFT SENSOR, AND OXYGEN SENSOR WERE REPLACED AT DIFFERENT TIMES. IN ADDITION, THE OTHER COMPONENTS REPLACED WERE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP, IGNITION COIL, AND ECM RELAY. THE FAILURE PERSISTED AFTER EACH REPAIR WAS PERFORMED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 180,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

I BOUGHT A 2000 DODGE DURANGO BACK IN JULY OF 2014 FROM A LOCAL DEALERSHIP. IN OCTOBER OF 2015 THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON A CITY STREET, GOING ABOUT 30 MILES PER HOUR. A CLOUD OF BLACK SMOKE CAME OUT OF MY HEATER VENTS, IT SMELT OF BURNT PLASTIC AND SULFUR. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY AFTER THAT HAPPENED ALL MY DASH LIGHTS CAME ON AND STARTED DINGING AT ME, AND THE BATTERY VOLTAGE METER WENT FROM OVER 18 TO UNDER 14. I WAS ABLE TO PULL INTO A LOCAL BUSINESS, AND PARKED THE VEHICLE, I SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF AND POPPED THE HOOD. UNDER THE HOOD IT SMELT EVEN STRONGER OF BURNT PLASTIC. I CHECKED THE OIL, THINKING THAT MAYBE I HAD AN OIL LEAK AND LOST ALL THE OIL I HAD JUST PUT INTO A WEEK BEFORE, BUT THE OIL WAS FINE. THE TRANSMISSION FLUID WAS FINE. ALL FLUIDS WERE FINE. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT STARTED SINCE AND I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT I NEED TO GET ALL NEW ELECTRICAL WIRES, COSTING ME ABOUT $5,000, I HAVE NOT YET PAID TO HAVE THE WORK DONE BECAUSE I HAVE READ ABOUT SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE, I BELIEVE THAT IT IS AN ISSUE THAT THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD HAVE TO COVER. MY TRUCK HAD TO BE TOWED HOME AND HAS NOT STARTED SINCE. I PAID A LITTLE OVER $5,000 FOR THE DURANGO, AND I'M NOT YET DONE PAYING IT OFF, AND UNTIL THIS IS LOOKED INTO FURTHER I AM NOT GOING TO PUT THE SAME AMOUNT OF MONEY INTO IT AS IT WILL COST ME TO JUST GO GET A NEW ONE OF THE SAME YEAR.

FIRST OFF, THE POWER DRIVER SEAT MOVES WITH THE MOTION OF THE CAR ABOUT A 1/2" FORWARD AND BACK. IT HAS BEEN TOLD TO ME THAT A SPACER IS NEEDED TO BE INSTALLED IN THE MECHANISM. SECOND AND MORE IMPORTANT IS THE ENGINE CUTS OFF WHEN THE CAR IS DECELERATING; ALL POWER TO THE CAR IS IMPEDED. THE CAR WILL NOT RESTART IMMEDIATELY.

LEFT CAMPGROUND PULLING PONTOON BOAT, TRAVELED APPROXIMATELY 10 MILES AND RIGHT REAR TIRE SIDEWALL BLEW OUT. CONTACTED TIRE INSTALLER WHO CONTACTED THEIR TIRE DISTRIBUTOR AND WAS TOLD BLOWOUT WAS RESULT OF UNDER INFLATION, EVEN THOUGH NO ONE FROM INSTALLER OR DISTRIBUTOR EXAMINED TIRE. CONTACTED MANUFACTURER VIA EMAIL AND EVEN SENT PHOTOS OF FAILED TIRE AND ONE REMAINING TIRE WITH LARGE "DENT" IN SIDEWALL AND WAS TOLD THEY COULD NOT EVALUATE TIRES FROM PHOTOS. WE REPLACED ALL 4 TIRES WITH NEW ONES OF A DIFFERENT BRAND.

I PURCHASED A 2000 DODGE DURANGO USED AT 147K MILES IN NOVEMBER 2014. BY MARCH 2015, IT TURNED OFF RANDOMLY WHILE I WAS DRIVING, MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE COURSE OF 6 MONTHS. THE SPEED DIDN'T MATTER. AFTER SEEING 2 MECHANICS, THEY SENT ME TO AN ELECTRICAL SPECIALIST WHO DETERMINED IT WAS MY PCM. I REPLACED IT 3 TIMES, AND THE SECOND ONE SENT TO ME HAD HOLES DRILLED IN IT THEN FILLED WITH SILICONE. THAT ONE WORKED THE LEAST. APPARENTLY, THE PCM WAS REPLACED ONCE BEFORE I PURCHASED IT. WHEN I GOT THE THIRD ONE IN, IT SEEMED TO CORRECT THE ISSUE. HOW IS THE ENGINE SHUTTING OFF RANDOMLY NOT A RECALL ISSUE? WHAT IF IT SHUT OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AT 65MPH? WHAT IF THERE WAS NO GOOD PLACE TO PULL OVER, AND WITH NO POWER STEERING I MIGHT ADD? I HAD MY KID IN THE CAR WITH ME MOST OF THE TIME.

HEAD GASKET LEAK CREATED A HEATER CORE ISSUE WHERE COOLANT WOULD "MIST" THROUGH THE VENTS. THIS POSED A HEALTH RISK TO MY CHILDREN AND I WHO HAVE ASTHMA. AND THERE'S NO TELLING THE LONG TERM EFFECTS OF INHALING COOLANT MIST. DUE TO COST, WE HAD TO REROUTE THE HEATER CORE, THUS DISABLING IT AND GOING WITHOUT HEAT AND DEFROST DURING THE WINTER MONTHS. SINCE THEN, THE GASKET ISSUE IS NOW CAUSING EVEN MORE ISSUES OF SMOKING UNDER THE HOOD, SMOKE OUT THE TAIL PIPE, AND COOLANT OVERHEATING. IT IS MY UNDERSTANDING HEAD GASKETS ARE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH DURANGOS. IT'S ABOUT TIME THEY ISSUE A RECALL AND FIX IT. I'M GREATLY CONCERNED ABOUT MY CHILDREN'S HEALTH AND SAFETY, PLUS THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT FROM THE EMISSIONS CHANGE DUE TO THE GASKET.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE LOWERED TO THE GROUND AND SMOKE BEGAN TO EMIT FROM THE VEHICLE. IN ADDITION, THE FRONT UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS BENT INWARD AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. ON TWO SEPARATE OCCASIONS, THE RADIATOR FAILED TO OPERATE AND CAUSED THE COOLING SYSTEM TO FAIL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE WHEEL HUB BEARING, FRONT UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS, AND COLD AIR INTAKE SYSTEM WERE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES AND STATED THAT THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBERS: 04V596000 (SUSPENSION), 06E024000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING) OR 08E064000 (SUSPENSION). THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 125,000.

MULTIPLE TIMES THE TRUCK HAS JUST DIED. DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD NO WARNING. THE VEHICLE RUNS JUST FINE AND STARTS RIGHT BACK UP. YESTERDAY THIS HAPPENED ON THE HIGHWAY AND ALMOST CAUSED A MAJOR ACCIDENT. WHEN IT DIES YOU LOOSE ALL POWER STEERING AND POWER BRAKES. IT IS DANGEROUS AND IVE FOUND NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ONLINE FROM DURANGO OWNERS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM.

CLUNKING NOISE FILLS LIKE SOMETHING TRYING TO SEPARATE. START AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 10 MILES.

WE JUST GOT ANOTHER CALL ON THIS 2000 DURANGO APPARENTLY THE ISSUES ARE THE SAME FOR EVERY DODGE DURANGO FROM 1999 TO 2007 VEHICLE STALLS AT ANY SPEED AT ANY TIME ANY WHERE WET OR DRY COMMON PROBLEM ON ALL DURANGOS AND NO EASY FIX OR SOLUTIONS NOT EVEN FROM CHRYSLER WE AMERICANS ARE WONDERING WHEN YOU WILL ISSUE A SAFETY RECALL ON THIS PARTICULAR BRAND MODEL AND YEARS OR WILL YOU JUST IGNORE THIS EMAIL UNTIL SOMEONE'S STALLS ON THE 70 -75 MILES PER HOUR FAST LANE OF THE HIGHWAY WITH THERE KIDS OR LOVED ONES AND IS KILLED ?? COME NHTSA THIS IS A VERY SERIOUS MATTER. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED AND DECELERATED INDEPENDENTLY. IN ADDITION, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND WAS ABLE TO BE RESTARTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER AND AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE MAT SENSOR, CAM SENSOR, SPARK PLUGS, AND MULTIPLE PARTS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 155,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE ON THE INTERSTATE, I APPLIED THE BRAKES AND THE FRONT SEAT SHIFTED FORWARD. A DRIVER SEAT SHOULD BE STATIONARY AND NOT ROCK FORWARD WHEN YOU DRIVING. DEFINITELY A SAFETY HAZARD. *TR

THE DRIVER SEAT MOVES FORWARD WHEN BRAKING. IT IS DANGEROUS IN THE EVENT OF HARD BRAKING AND THE SEAT MOVES FORWARD. THIS CAN CAUSE THE DRIVER TO APPLY MORE FORCE ON THE BRAKE THAN INTENDED. THE 'MOVEMENT' IS DUE TO WORN PARTS IN THE ELECTRIC LIFT AND/OR ELECTRIC FORWARD/BACKWARD POSITIONING MECHANISM(S). THE MOVEMENT IS NOT DUE TO THE ELECTRIC MOTORS DOING THE MOVEMENT.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE SPEED LIMIT 75 AND THE ENGINE JUST SHUT OFF. NO STEERING, NO BRAKES, NO CODES, NO WARNING LIGHTS NOTHING. THANK GOODNESS IT WAS IN THE EVENING AND LIGHT TRAFFIC, GOT FINALLY STOPPED AND HAD TO WAIT 2HRS BEFORE RESTARTING, WENT ABOUT ANOTHER 5 MILES AND DID IT AGAIN. FINALLY GOT TO WHERE I WAS GOING AND THEN THE NEXT DAY HAD TO TRAVEL AGAIN ON INTERSTATE AND IT DID IT AGAIN AND HAD TO WAIT 45 MINUTES TO RESTART. WHEN I FINALLY GOT HOME I SEARCH THE INTERNET FOR THIS PROBLEM AND THERE A MANY MANY SITES THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM!!!! A RECALL NEEDS TO BE DONE AND THIS PROBLEM NEEDS TO BE FIXED BEFORE SOMEONE GETS HURT. *JS

DRIVING ON REGULAR ROAD JUST TURNS OFF AND YOU LOOSE CONTROL OF STEERING , BRAKES AND SPEED, IT HAS HAPPENED ON HIGHWAY AND LUCKY IT HAS HAPPENED WHILE ON RIGHT LANE. STEERING LOCKS DOWN AND YOU ARE FORCE TO USE MUSCLE POWER TO GET IT OUT OF THE WAY. CAN I MAKE A LAWSUIT AGAINST THE DODGE PEOPLE TO FIX SUCH PROBLEM OR SHOULD I WAIT UNTIL MY WIFE GETS KILLED OR OTHERS AS IT HAS HAPPENED WITH OTHER DURANGO OWNERS? REPLACING THE PCM DIDN'T DO THE JOB THE PROBLEM'S STILL HAPPENING AND NOW IS IN THE PARKING LOT UNTIL IT BECOMES SAFE. *TR

VIN # [XXX] SYSTEM ISSUES TRANSMISSION ISSUES ENGINE PROBLEMS AND AIR COOLING ISSUES DOOR ISSUES TO POWER WINDOWS AND WATER-COOLING ISSUES. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. AFTER WAITING TEN MINUTES, THE VEHICLE RESTARTED AND RESUMED NORMALLY. THE FAILURE RECURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS WHEN DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO SEVERAL INDEPENDENT MECHANICS WHO WERE UNABLE TO LOCATE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 108,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

JUST RECENTLY I NOTICED THE FOLLOWING PROBLEM WITH MY DRIVER'S SEAT. AFTER I SELECT THE CORRECT SEAT POSITION BY PRESSING THE BUTTON ON THE BOTTOM LEFT OF THE SEAT TO MOVE FORWARD OR BACKWARDS; THE SEAT SLIDES BACK AND FORTH WHEN I HAVE TO BRAKE OR STOP. THIS PROBLEM IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS IN THE EVENT I HAVE TO STOP/BRAKE SUDDENLY. FROM WHAT I HAVE READ ON THE INTERNET, THIS PROBLEM IS COMMON WITH THE DODGE DURANGO AND IS CAUSED BY LOOSE TRACK RAILS ATTACHED UNDERNEATH THE DRIVER'S SEAT. IS THIS A DEFECT IN THE DODGE DURANGO? IF SO, THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNKNOWN SPEED, THE TENSIONER HANGED FROM UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE TENSIONER WAS RUSTED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 95,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 DODGE DURANGO. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR CONDITIONER LEAKED UNDER THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE MECHANIC ADDED DYE TO THE REFRIGERANT TO DETERMINE WHERE THE LEAK WAS LOCATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

WOULD START SPITTING JUMPING JERKING ROUGH IDLE ALMOST STOP THEN WOULD PULL OVER PUT IN PART WOULD IDLE REALLY LOW TO WHERE IT ALMOST DIE GO TO PULL OUT BARELY WOULD LIKE IT WAS STALLING NO POWER EVEN WITH THE GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR WAS A COUPLE TIMES I ALMOST GOT HIT BECAUSE IT WOULD START THIS AND LOSE POWER SLOW WAY DOWN WOULD TRY TO GET OFF TO SIDE OF THE ROAD THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE THE GAS SO WE GOT THE REALLY HIGH GRADE TO JUST SEE STILL DOES IT HAVE GOT STRANDED OUT A COUPLE TIMES HAD TO GET SOMEONE TO COME HELP ME GET IT HOME IT SCARES ME I'M AFRAID I'M GOING TO GET HIT WHEN IT DOES THIS AND I'M ON FIXED INCOME SO I CAN'T AFFORD TO SPEND ANY MONEY ON IT TO FIX IT SO WAS WONDERING IF IT WAS SOMETHING THAT MAYBE IT WAS RECALLED FOR I BOUGHT IT USED IN 2013 FROM A LADY THAT LET ME MAKE PAYMENTS TIL I GOT IT PAID FOR THANK YOU *TR

PURCHASED THE VEHICLE LOCALLY. AFTER 2 DAYS OF OWNING IT THE VEHICLE WOULD SHUT OFF AT RANDOM MOMENTS. SOMETIMES WHEN I AM DRIVING AT 40MPH AND SOMETIMES AT 20MPH AND UNDER. IN TRAFFIC AND SOMETIMES AFTER BEING PARKED FOR A BIT WILL NOT STARTUP. WHEN WE ARE DRIVING AND THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKS UP ALSO. THE VEHICLE MAY TAKE HOURS BEFORE IT STARTS AGAIN. THERE HAS BEEN MANY MANY COMPLAINTS AND STILL NO REAL SOLUTION. THE 1999 TO 2001 DURANGOS MUST BE RECALLED BEFORE A FATALITY OCCURS. *TR

AFTER READING THE OTHER POSTS ON THIS WEBSITE, I WANTED TO SHARE MY PROBLEM. I OWN A 2000 DODGE DURANGO ,IT HAS ABOUT 172,000 MILES. MY HUSBAND AND I ARE RETIRED AND ONLY DRIVE IT A FEW TIMES A WEEK. AFTER OWNING THE TRUCK FOR FOUR MONTHS, IT WOULD NOT START. I HAD IT TOWED TO THE GARAGE AND WAS TOLD IT WAS THE CAM SENSOR. AFTER THE SENSOR WAS REPLACED I HAD NO PROBLEMS FOR ABOUT SIX MONTHS. THEN IT WOULD NOT START SOMETIMES, EVEN WHEN IT WAS COLD. IT WOULD DIE WHILE DRIVING REGARDLESS OF THE SPEED. I MEAN IT JUST SHUTS OFF COMPLETELY. SOMETIMES IT WOULD START RIGHT BACK UP AND SOMETIMES IT WOULD TAKE FIFTEEN MINUTES OR MORE. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE GARAGE AND THE MECHANIC WAS SURPRISED THAT THE CAM SENSOR WAS BAD AGAIN. HE REPLACED THE CAM SENSOR AND THE TRUCK WAS GOOD FOR ABOUT FOUR MONTHS. JUST RECENTLY WHILE WE ON VACATION (ABOUT TWO HOURS FROM HOME) THE SENSOR WENT BAD AGAIN! LUCKILY WE MADE IT HOME, THE MECHANIC REPLACED THE CAM SENSOR AGAIN. IF THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM, WHAT DOESN'T DODGE FIX THE PROBLEM, AND REIMBURSE DURANGO OWNERS FOR THE REPAIR BILLS! *TR

WHILE ON THE INTERSTATE AT 65 MPH, MY VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED AND WENT DEAD. IT HAD NO OIL PRESSURE LEFT. MY VEHICLE BARELY MADE IT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. IT HAD TO BE PUSHED OUT OF THE WAY! IT WAS TOWED HOME. *TR