2018 Dodge Grand Caravan Complaint Log

SMALL OVERLAP VEHICLE ACCIDENT. DRIVER UNRESTRAINED. FRONT AIRBAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. DRIVER FATALITY.

MY WIFE AND I PURCHASED A 2018 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN IN 2020 WITH 54000 MILES ON IT. ITS HAD A MISFIRE ON CYLINDER 4 BUT WAS TOLD IT WAS JUST A COIL PACK OR SPARK PLUG. FINALLY, WE HAD THAT FINANCIAL MEANS TO PUT IT IN THE SHOP AND COME TO FIND OUT IT HAD LOW COMPRESSION IN CYLINDER 4 WHICH LED TO NEEDING A NEW HEAD. THE MECHANIC THAT FIXED THIS SAID THAT SOME OTHER MECHANICS HAD MENTIONED HEADS BEING AN ISSUE ON THOSE ENGINES. I CONTACTED DODGE AND THEY SAID THAT SINCE IT HAD SURPASSED THE 60000 MILE FACTORY WARRANTY BY 4500 MILES THAT THEY COULD NOT HELP US. THE ONLY THING THAT THEY TOLD ME WAS IF IT DOES BECOME A RECALL OR BE INCLUDED IN A WARRANTY EXTENSION THAT I COULD GET REIMBURSED.

DRIVER DOOR LOCK MALFUNCTION. WILL NOT LOCK

PASSENGER SIDE, REAR SLIDING DOOR LOCKING MECHANISM FAILED. THE DOOR IS STUCK IN THE LOCK POSITION AND CANNOT BE UNLOCKED REMOTELY OR MANUALLY. THIS CREATES A SAFETY ISSUE AS THE DOOR CANNOT BE OPENED.

MOTOR KNOCKING, LIFTER FAILED CAUSING MAJOR MOTOR DAMAGE. NO WARNING LIGHTS LESS THAN 60,000 MILES ON MOTOR WITH REGULAR SERVICE.

1ST INCIDENT OCCURRED WHILE ACCELERATING TO PULL ON TO THE HIGHWAY. AFTER ACCELERATING AND REMOVING FOOT FROM PEDAL, THE PEDAL DID NOT RELEASE AND THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO RAPIDLY ACCELERATE. APPLYING THE BRAKES DID NOT STOP THE ENGINE ACCELERATION BUT DID ALLOW US TO EXIT THE HIGHWAY AND SHIFT TO NEUTRAL AND TURN OFF THE CAR. RESTARTING THE CAR, ALL RETURNED TO NORMAL. HOWEVER A LITTLE WHILE LATER WHILE ACCELERATING TO PASS A VEHICLE THE GAS PEDAL ONCE AGAIN STUCK IN THE DOWNWARD POSITION AND WOULD NOT RELEASE. ONCE AGAIN BRAKE WAS APPLIED AND ONLY AFTER THE VEHICLE DROPPED TO AROUND 40 MPH DID THE THROTTLE DISENGAGE.*DT*DT*JB*JB

PASSENGER SIDE SLIDING DOOR NOT LOCKING/UNLOCKING WHEN THE KEY FOB LOCKS/UNLOCKS THE OTHER DOORS. VEHICLE IS STATIONARY, RUNNING OR TURNED OFF IN PARK.

2018 GRAND CARAVAN DRIVER REAR SLIDER DOOR IS LOCKED CLOSE AND WILL NOT OPEN!!! I'VE SEEN MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS OF SAME ISSUE

DRIVERS SIDE PASSENGER DOOR WILL NO LONGER OPEN.

JUST LIKE THE THOUSANDS OF OTHER MY REAR SLIDING DOOR IS LOCKED SHUT AND WILL NOT OPEN. IT STARTED AS A BUZZING SOUND THEN COMPLETELY FAILED. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE AND NOW MY ALMOST NEW VAN WITH ONLY 54,000 MILES IS WORTHLESS. THE WHOLE POINT OF BUYING IT IS TO HAVE THE TWO SLIDING DOORS. THE DEALER SAYS IT WILL BE $1,700 TO FIX. I PROMISE THIS MUCH. IF DODGE DOES NOT DO A RECALL ON THIS SPECIFIC ISSUE I WILL NEVER PURCHASE FROM THEM AGAIN. THIS IS RIDICULOUS THAT THERE IS NO RECALL ALREADY ON THE DOORS. I HAVE READ ALL THE FORUMS AND SUBMITTIONS AND THIS IS A WIDE SPREAD ISSUE. CHRYSTLER/DODGE IS WELL AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AND HAVE STEPPED UP LIKE AN HONEST COMPANY AND MADE IT RIGHT. BUYERS BEWARE.

THIS PROBLEM BEGAN ABOUT A MONTH AGO. WE HAD LOCKED THE DOOR AND WE HEARD A LOUD BUZZING SOUND COME FROM THE RIGHT SIDE SLIDING DOOR. NOW EVERY TIME WE OPEN ,LOCK OR UNLOCK THE CAR IT MAKES A LOUD BUZZING SOUND ON THAT SIDE.

PASSENGER SLIDING DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK/LOCK OTHER THAN DOING SO MANUALLY BY MOVING THE LOCK BY HAND. THIS RENDERS THE AUTOMATIC LOCK/UNLOCK BUTTON, KEY FOB AND AUTOMATIC OPENER USELESS.

WITHOUT WARNING, THE DRIVERS SIDE SLIDING DOOR OF MY 2018 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN INITIALLY BEGAN MAKING A VERY LOUD BUZZING NOISE WHEN THE AUTOMATIC POWER LOCKS ENGAGE WHILE DRIVING, HOWEVER, THIS QUICKLY ESCALATED TO NOT ONLY AN EXTREMELY LOUD BUZZING NOISE WHEN LOCKED WHILE DRIVING, TO AN EXTREMELY LOUD BUZZING NOISE ANYTIME THE LOCKS ARE ACTIVATED AT ALL. THIS ISSUE ALONE, WHILE NOT EXACTLY A SAFETY CONCERN, IS CONCURRENT WITH THE SAME DOOR INTERMITTENTLY EITHER STAYING LOCKED DESPITE ANY EFFORT TO OPEN IT, OR NOT BEING ABLE TO LOCK AT ALL. BOTH OF THESE LATTER PROBLEMS COULD PRESENT A DANGEROUS SITUATION IF NOT RECTIFIED.

ALL THE EMERGENCY LIGHT GOING ON IN THE DASH BOARD, WIPERS WORKING BY THEM SELF, DOORS, RADIO, AC NOT WORKING. TOOK TO THE MECHANIC CENTER THEY CHANGE THE FUSE BOX BUT IT DID NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. IS THEIR ANY EXPLANATION TO FIX THIS ISSUE??

SLIDING DOOR LOCK PROBLEMS, MY DRIVER'S SIDE SLIDING DOOR WILL NOT OPE WHEN STATIONARY, THE DOOR STOP WORKING, AFTER 5 DAYS THE RIGHT SIDE STOPPED WORKING AND MY FAMILY BEGAN TO EXIT THROUGH DRIVER'S DOOR OR FRONT PASSENGER'S SIDE. I CONTACTED DODGE THEY SAID IT WILL COST $150 TO DIAGNOSE AND $1500 TO REPAIR DEPENDING ON WHAT THEY FIND OUT.

DRIVER SIDE PASSENGER SLIDING DOOR STOPPED UNLOCKING AND WONT OPEN

OUR DODGE CARAVAN IS 2 YEARS OLD AND THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR LOCKS WON'T LOCK OR UNLOCK WITH THE FOB OR THE ACTUAL DOOR LOCKS ON THE INSIDE. IT JUST STOPPED WORKING. IT WAS STUCK IN THE LOCK POSITION AND WE COULDN'T GET MY DAUGHTER OUT OF THE CAR WITHOUT USING THE OTHER DOOR. THE VAN IS NOT LONGER UNDER WARRANTY FOR THIS ISSUE AS IT HAS 45,000 MILES ON IT. WE BOUGHT THE VAN FROM HERTZ 11 MONTHS. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH DODGE CARAVANS. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON IT. THE DODGE DEALERSHIP WANTS TO CHARGE $1700 FOR THE ACTUATOR ANOTHER OTT THAT WILL PROBABLY BREAK WHEN THEY REPLACE IT AND ALSO AN ISSUE WITH THE LEFT CONTROL STICK ALTHOUGH WORKING WASN'T REGISTERING WITH THE CODES. IT IS $1300 JUST FOR THE ACTUATOR, MASTER SWITCH AND LABOR. THE VAN WAS STATIONARY WHEN WE FIRST NOTICED IT. WE GOT BACK TO THE VAN WHEN IT WAS LOCKED AND PARKED AND WE COULDN'T OPEN THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR BECAUSE IT WAS STUCK IN THE LOCK POSITION.

WHEN I APPLIED THE BRAKES THE VEHICLE KEPT GOING IT WOULDN'T SROP THIS HAPPENED TO ME 3XS 2 TIMES I WAS IN A CRASH THE BRAKES FO LOW TO THE FLOOR BUT WHEN IT WAS CHECKED I WAS TOLD EVERYTHING WAS FINE. THIS LAST SACCIDENT PEOPLE WHERE WITH ME THEY WITNESSED ME FRANTICALLY APPLYING BRAKES BUT CAR WOULDNT STOP.

THE BRAKES DID NOT HOLD WHEN BACKING UP. I WAS DRIVING WHEN BRAKES WENT SOFT. I HAD VECH TOWED TO A LOCAL MECHANIS AND IT WAS DISECOVERED A GAS BUBBLE IN BRAKE LINE .I SEARCHED AND FOUND A RECALL NOTED THIS WAS FOUND AND WOULD REOCOUR. MAFRACTURE STATES IT COULD REACOUR AGANIN AT ANYTIME

THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I WAS (JUNE 22, 2020) ON MY WAY HOME FROM THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I HAD JUST PURCHASED THE VEHICLE. I PURCHASED IT FROM OUT OF STATE SO IT WAS ABOUT A 400 MILE DRIVE HOME. I WAS COMING TO A STOP LIGHT AND THE BRAKES STIFFENED AND DIDN'T WORK. ALSO THE POWER STEERING WAS GONE. LUCKILY, I WAS ABLE TO PULL OVER AND TURN THE CAR OFF AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AGAIN. A BRAKE LIGHT WAS FLASHING ON THE DASH SO, I PRESSED THE PARKING BRAKE RELEASE TWICE AND RESTARTED IT AGAIN. AFTER I DID THIS THE CAR SEEMED FINE. I DROVE HOME VERY CAREFULLY AND CALLED THE DEALER. THEY SAID TO TAKE IT TO THE CLOSEST DEALER TO MY HOUSE. I DID THE NEXT DAY (JUNE 23, 2020). THE ONLY PROBLEM CODE THEY FOUND WAS IN THE BRAKES SO THEY REPLACED THOSE PARTS. I WENT HOME THINKING THAT ALL WAS FIXED. I DROVE THE VEHICLE ANOTHER 500+ MILES IN THE NEXT WEEK WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS. THEN ON JULY 4TH IT HAPPENED AGAIN, NO BRAKES OR POWER STEERING. I WAS LUCKY AGAIN IN THAT I COULD PULL OVER AND RESTART THE CAR. I TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALER WHEN THEY OPENED ON JULY 6TH. THEY FOUND NO PROBLEM CODE AND SAID UNTIL THEY HAD IT HAPPEN WHILE THEY WERE DRIVING IT, THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I WAS DRIVING DOWNHILL SLOWING DOWN TO A STOPLIGHT. THE SECOND TIME I WAS DRIVING DOWNHILL AND SLOWING FOR TRAFFIC WHEN I NOTICED IT. I WAS LUCKY THAT I WAS NOT ON FAST HIGHWAYS WHEN THIS HAPPENED.

I HAVE LESS THAN 56,000 MILES AND HAVE ALREADY HAD TO REPLACE THE LOCKING MECHANISMS ON BOTH SLIDING DOORS. THE DRIVERS SIDE WAS STUCK IN THE LOCK POSITION AND THE PASSENGERS SIDE WAS STUCK IN THE UNLOCK POSITION. BOTH POSE A SAFETY CONCERN FOR CHILDREN IN THE BACKSEAT AND THEFT OF VALUABLES BECAUSE I COULD NOT LOCK ONE OF THE DOORS. BOTH WERE REPAIRED BY CHRONIC CHEVROLET UNDER MY PAID EXTENDED WARRANTY BUT I STILL HAD TO PAY THE DEDUCTIBLE FOR EACH ONE.

SLIDING SIDE DOOR LOCK ISSUES. ONE DAY WORKS OTHER DAYS DON'T. SLIDING POWER DOOR DOES NOT LATCH ON IN OPEN POSITION THUS KEEP CLOSING AND HITTING A PERSON WHEN ITS AUTOMATICALLY CLOSING. MY SON AND MYSELF HAS SLAMMED BY DOOR MORE THAN I WOULD LIKE TO SAY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2018 DODGE CARAVAN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE SHUDDERED AND STALLED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE POWER STEERING AND BRAKES WERE ALSO INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. NEITHER THE DEALER NOR THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 55,000.

DRIVER SIDE SLIDE DOOR STUCK ON LOCK. *TR

BOUGHT THE VAN IN DECEMBER OF 2019. A FEW MONTHS AGO I NOTICED THAT THE VAN WASN'T ACCELERATING/SHIFTING WHEN GOING UP HILLS. IT DELAYED STARTED ONE NIGHT AND I HAD TO SHIFT IF OFF AND RESTART IT. MY FRONT A/C STOPPED WORKING AND KICKS ON RANDOMLY. THE DOORS DON'T AUTOMATICALLY LOCK UNTIL A FEW MINUTES AFTER BEING PUT INTO DRIVE. BACK RIGHT DOOR DOESN'T LOCK. RECENTLY TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC AND WAS INFORMED THAT THERE IS BURNT WIRING AND POSSIBLE PLUGGED CAD. CONVERTER. *TR

SLIDING DOOR LOCKS ON BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER ARE NOT WORKING DRIVER SIDE SLIDING DOOR IS IN LOCKED POSITION AND WILL NOT OPEN WITH KEY FOB, MANUAL LOCK PASSENGER SIDE SLIDING DOOR DOES NOT LOCK WITH KEY FOB, HAVE TO MANUALLY LOCK AND UNLOCK DOOR. *TR

SLIDING DOOR LOCKS MALFUNCTIONING. AT TIMES EVEN TRYING TO MANUALLY UNLOCK THE DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK. THIS IS EXTREMELY UNSAFE SHOULD A SITUATION REQUIRING A QUICK EXIT ARISE AND THE CHILDREN ARE UNABLE TO OPEN THE DOOR(S). THIS HAPPENS WITH THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THE REAR LOCKS ALWAYS MAKE A BUZZING SOUND BUT WILL LOCK/UNLOCK ONLY WHEN IT FEELS LIKE IT.

TOOK MY CAR TO TWO DEALERS THE FIRST DEALER SAID HE DIDN'T HAVE A TOOL TO REMOVE THE LIGHT. THE SECOND DEALERSHIP KEPT MY CAR FOR FIVE DAYS SAID IT WAS A SEATBELT ERROR. WHEN I WENT TO PICK IT UP THEY SAID THEY DIDN'T HAVE A MECHANIC THAT COULD GET RID OF THE AIR LIGHT. AND THEY CHARGED ME FOR A NEW DRIVER SIDE SEAT BELT

BOUGHT A 2018 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN FROM DEALER WITH ABOUT 56000 MILES ON IT. IDLED A LITTLE ROUGH, BUT HAD ONE IN THE PAST WITH SAME ISSUE. WITHIN 5000 MILES, MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WITH MISFIRE IN CYLINDER 2. TOOK TO DEALER, THEY CHANGED PLUGS AND COIL. WITHIN 500 MILES, SAME LIGHT CAME ON, MISFIRE CYLINDER 2. TOOK BACK AND THEY MOVED PLUG AND COIL. DROVE FOR PROBABLY 600 MILES AND LIGHT CAME BACK ON. TOOK IT BACK TO DEALER AND AFTER DIGGING DISCOVERED LOW COMPRESSION IN CYLINDER 2. THEY TALKED TO DODGE DEALERSHIP AND THEY ADVISED THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE IN THESE MOTORS. THE VEHICLE NOW HAS TO BE TAKEN TO THE DODGE DEALERSHIP TO BE FIXED SINCE THE HEAD HAS TO BE WORKED ON. MY DEALERSHIP DOESN'T HAVE THE TOOLS TO PROPERLY FIX. LUCKILY I PURCHASED EXTENDED WARRANTY, HOWEVER IF THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM, I AM REQUESTING A LOOK INTO MAKING IT A RECALL ACROSS THE BOARD SO NO OTHER INDIVIDUAL HAS THE SAME ISSUE.

THE DRIVERSIDE DOOR LOCK DOES NOT OPERATE WITH REMOTE OR UNLOCK OR LOCK USING THE INSIDE DOOR LOCK BUTTON. MUST USE THE KEY INSIDE THE FOB REMOTE DEVICE TO UNLOCK DOOR FROM OUTSIDE. I MANUALLY HAVE TO PUSH KNOB DOWN TO LOCK AND INSIDE HANDLE TO UNLOCK DOOR. *TR

AT POWER OUTLET THE WIRING HARNESS RUBS ON THE FRAME AND CAUSED THE CONNECTOR TO GET HOT AND MELT THE CONNECTOR, WIRING AND MELTS THE CARPET IT IS A FIRE HAZARD

THE DRIVER-SIDE REAR SLIDING DOOR HAS LOCKED AND WILL NOT UNLOCK MANUALLY, WITH DOOR UNLOCK BUTTON, OR BY KEY FOB. WHEN TRYING TO UNLOCK MANUALLY THE MECHANISM RUBBER BANDS BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION AS IF THE LOCKING MECHANISM IN THE DOOR IS STUCK. THIS PRESENTS A SAFETY HAZARD IN CASE OF EMERGENCIES. THIS LUCKILY HAPPENED AS I WAS GOING TO PUT MY SON IN THE VEHICLE BEFORE LEAVING MY HOME.

ON THE FILLER NECK, WHEN I PUT THE FUEL NOZZLE IN TO FILL UP MY VAN THE FILLER NECK IS LOOSE. I HAVE OWNED MANY VEHICLES AND HAVE NEVER RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM. ON THE POWER TRAIN ,WHEN CLIMBING A HILL IT SLOWS DOWN AND I GO TO GIVE IT GAS AND IT BOGGS DOWN, LIKE SPUTTERS. IT MAKES LIKE A CLUNCKING IN THE BACK OF THE VAN. ALSO THE HOOD HAS COME UP ON ME 3 TIMES. THIS LAST TIME I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER THEY DID NOT CHECK IT OUT. I WAS GOING DOWN THE ROAD AND THE LATCH POPPED LOOSE AND MADE THE HOOD COME UP. I WAS GOING ABOUT 45 MILES AN HOUR.

THE PASSENGER REAR SLIDING DOOR HAS LOCKED AND WILL NOT OPEN MANUALLY, WITH BUTTON, REMOTE AND OVERHEAD BUTTON. THIS PRESENTS A SAFETY HAZARD INCASE OF EMERGENCIES. UPON FURTHER RESEARCH, IT SEEMS THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH DODGE GRAND CARAVANS AND HAVE COST CUSTOMERS MORE THAN $1,000 FOR REPAIRS. THIS SHOULD BE RECOMMENDED FOR A RECALL.

THE SLIDING DOOR WILL OPEN COMPLETELY THEN START CLOSING ONCE OPEN. THE UP TOP BUTTON IS SET TO OFF SO THE OPEN/ CLOSE BUTTON BY THE DOOR WOULD NOT WORK. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL DATES UP TO NOW. THE DOOR DOESN'T LOCK OR UN LOCK USING THE KEY FOB OR IN CAR LOCK BUTTON.

AT 48,000 MILES RATTLES IN REAR END GETTING LOUDER. SOUNDS LIKE COMING FROM REAR SUSPENSION. NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY AFTER 36,000 MILES. HEAR RATTLING WHEN IN MOTION.

REAR RIGHT SLIDING DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR BUZZING WHEN UNLOCKING DOOR.

I WAS IN ALLENTOWN AND MY BRAKE PEDAL DRIFTED HALFWAY TO THE FLOOR WHILE AT THE STOP LIGHT. I WAS AT PEP BOYS AND THEY BLEED THE BRAKES. THAT SEEMED TO DO THE TRICK. HERE WE ARE TWO WEEKS LATER AND THE BRAKE PEDAL IS GETTING SPONGY AND DRIFTING AGAIN. THEREFORE NO FLUID LEAKS ANY PLACE. THERE HAVE BEEN SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON ONLINE BOARDS. I PAID CASH FOR THIS VAN JULY 1 2019 . I SHOULD NOT HAVE THIS PROBLEM. THIS IS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT AND IS A SAFETY HAZARD FOR MYSELF AND MY PASSENGERS. NOT TO MENTION OTHER PEOPLE ON THE ROAD OR CROSSWALKS.*DT*JB

ENGINE STALLS WITHOUT WARNING WHEN GAS GAUGE GETS TO 1/4 OF TANK. IT HAS HAPPENED WHEN GOING 70 MPH ON HIGHWAY, IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC ON HIGHWAY, GOING SLOW SPEEDS ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET, OR AT A STOP SIGN. LOOSE POWER STEERING AND POWER BRAKES. HAVE TO COME TO COMPLETE STOP, PUT IT IN PARK, AND RESTART IT. NO WARNING, NO ENGINE MISFIRES, JUST ABRUPT SUDDEN STOP. THE ONLY COMMON THING IS THE LEVEL OF GASOLINE IN THE VAN. AS LONG AS IT IS FILLED BEFORE IT GETS TO 1/4 TANK, IT DOESN'T HAVE PROBLEMS. TOOK TO DEALER WHO COULD NOT DUPLICATE PROBLEM (HAD MORE GAS IN IT) AND THEY SAID THERE WERE NO CODES. THEY WOULD NOT PERFORM DIAGNOSTIC TESTS ON ALL SYSTEMS. ASKED THEM TO TEST POWER CONTROL MODULE SINCE SAME PROBLEM WAS SUBJECT TO RECALL OF OTHER 2018 DODGE CARAVANS UNDER RECALL NO. U87 FOR CHRYSLER AND NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID 18V524000, BUT THEY WOULD NOT, EVEN THOUGH VEHICLE WAS STILL UNDER THE WARRANTY PROVIDED AS A CERTIFIED USED VEHICLE.

ON 9/19 THE POWER LOCKS ARE FAILING TO WORK. RIGHT NOW PASSENGER DOOR AND SLIDING DOOR LOCKS STOPPED WORKING. SOMETIMES YOU CANT EVEN UNLOCK THE DOOR TO OPEN THEM. WHICH IS A BIG SAFETY PROBLEM. NOW 12/19 DRIVER SIDE LOCKS ARE HAVING PROBLEMS AND NOT LOCKING AND UNLOCKING. AND SOMETIME THE DRIVER SIDE SLIDING DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK SO THE DOOR IS STUCK MAKING IT A MAJOR PROBLEM FOR EXIT IF THERE WAS AN EMERGENCY

Driver side sliding door lock failed, same as the 2016 model that has a recall.

MY DRIVER'S SIDE SLIDING DOOR STOPPED WORKING. I BOUGHT MY VAN FROM A DEALER AT THE END OF JULY 2019 WITH AROUND 40,000 MILES ON IT. IN THE MIDDLE OF OCTOBER 2019 (AROUND 45,000 MILES) THE DOOR STOPPED WORKING. I USED THE KEY FOB BUTTON TO OPEN THE DOOR AND PUT MY GRANDSON IN HIS CARSEAT. I USED THE DOOR POWER BUTTON TO CLOSE THE DOOR. WHEN WE GOT TO OUR DESTINATION, I USED THE POWER BUTTON ON THE ROOF DASH TO OPEN THE DOOR, I GOT MY GRANDSON OUT AND USED THE DOOR POWER BUTTON THO CLOSE THE DOOR. EVERYTHING WORKED AS USUAL. WHEN WE CAME OUT, I TRIED TO USE THE KEY FOB BUTTON TO OPEN THE DOOR. THE LIGHTS BLINKED, BUT THE DOOR DID NOT OPEN. I TRIED TO OPEN THE DOOR MANUALLY AND IT WOULD NOT OPEN. WHEN I GOT HOME I TRIED TO FIGURE OUT WHAT WAS WRONG. I TRIED TO UNLOCK THE DOOR, BUT IT WILL NOT UNLOCK. THE BUTTON WILL MOVE SOME MANUALLY BUT WILL NOT UNLOCK. I TRIED CALLING THE DEALER AND THEY SAID THEY COULDN'T DO ANYTHING BECAUSE IT WAS OUT OF WARRANTY. I CALLED DODGE TO SEE IF THERE WAS A RECALL ON IT AND THEY SAID THERE WAS NOT A RECALL AND THEY COULD DO NOTHING TO HELP ME. I WAS LOOKING ONLINE AND SAW THAT MANY PEOPLE HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND MOST OF THE VEHICLES WERE FAIRLY NEW LIKE MINE. THEY SUGGESTED COMING HERE TO FILE A COMPLAINT TO TRY AND GET A RECALL ON THESE DOORS.

DRIVER'S SIDE SLIDING DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK/OPEN. I GOT TO MY DESTINATION AND USED THE POWER BUTTON OVER VISOR TO OPEN THE DOOR AND UNLOAD CHILDREN. USED POWER BUTTON AT THE DOOR TO CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER UNLOADING CHILDREN. CAME OUT TO VAN TO GO HOME AND DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN. THE VEHICLE HAD AROUND 42,000 MILES AND I HAD ONLY OWNED THE VEHICLE FOR 3 MONTHS. I BOUGHT IT USED FROM A DEALER. I HAVE RESEARCHED THIS PROBLEM AND IT APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE VANS MODELS 2014 AND LATER. THE REPAIR COST IS ABOUT $1100 FOR A FAULTY LOCK MECHANISM.I HAVE TRIED MULTIPLE TIMES TO FORCE THE DOOR TO UNLOCK AND IT WILL NOT UNLOCK AND CAN NOT BE OPENED WHICH LIMITS ACCESS TO THE BACK ON THE VAN ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE.

Neither of my rear passenger doors will open. The driver's side quit 2&1/2 months months after I bought the vehicle in 2019 at around 44000 miles. The passenger side quit at around 60,000 miles in 2021. The doors just suddenly stopped working without any indication there was something wrong. They will not open electronically or manually. The only way to access the rear of the van is through the cargo gate. It is a very expensive fix and very dangerous if we were in an accident to be able to get passengers out along with being extremely inconvenient. I have seen multiple reports of this online. I do not know why there is not a recall on the part that is malfunctioning so quickly with regular use.

I WAS CROSSING AN INTERSECTION WHEN 2 CARS STOPPED IN FRONT OF ME MAKING A LEFT TURN I TRIED TO STOP SLAMMED MY BRAKES NO SKIDDING AT ALL AND RAN INTO THE BACK OF A CAR TOTALING MY VAN AS OF THE RESULT OF THE WRECK IN WICH L FELT LIKE THERE WAS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE BRAKES

REAR PASSENGER DOORS OFTEN DON'T UNLOCK OR OPEN. HUGE SAFETY ISSUE. CAR IS TURNED OFF. INSIDE UNLOCK BUTTON PRESSED TWICE, REAR PASSENGER DOOR DOESN'T UNLOCK. WHEN KEY FOB IS USED TO UNLOCK THE DOORS, REAR PASSENGER DOOR DOESN'T UNLOCK. WHEN CAR IS TURNED ON AND THE INSIDE UNLOCK BUTTON IS PRESSED, REAR PASSENGER DOORS DON'T UNLOCK.

VEHICLE IS STOPPING VERY SLOW. ALSO IS JERKING WHEN GOING FROM IDLE TO PULL OFF. BREAKS REQUIRE ADDITIONAL STOPPING ROOM. THESE ISSUES BEGAN IMMEDIATELY AFTER PURCHASE IN SEPTEMBER 2019. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL ONLINE COMPLAINTS FOR THIS SAME VEHICLE. THERE ARE RECALLS ON SIMILAR VEHICLES.

THE POWER LOCKS ARE FAILING TO WORK. RIGHT NOW PASSENGER DOOR AND SLIDING DOOR LOCKS STOPPED WORKING. SOMETIMES YOU CANT EVEN UNLOCK THE DOOR TO OPEN THEM. WHICH IS A BIG SAFETY PROBLEM.

CAR WAS STATIONARY. DECIDED TO GO INTO ANOTHER LANE SO WHILE TURNING INTO OTHER LANE, DEPRESSED GAS PEDAL FIRMLY AND IT STUCK TO THE FLOOR REVVING UP THE ENGINE TO WHERE II IMMEDIATELY SLAMMED THE BRAKES ON BUT STILL HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. THIS HAPPENED BEFORE WHILE ENTERING THE FREEWAY FROM AN ONRAMP WHERE I "UNSTUCK" THE PEDAL BY WEDGING MY FOOT UNDER THE SIDE OF THE PEDAL AND PULLING OUT. I THOUGHT IT WAS A ONE TIME THING AND DISMISSED IT. THE FREEWAY WAS PRETTY EMPTY. THIS NEW CIRCUMSTANCE WAS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT AS I WAS AT A STOP IN TRAFFIC AND THIS HAPPENING IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. I CONSIDER IT TO BE DEFECTIVE SHOULD BE TAKEN CARE OF FROM THE MANUFACTURE.*DT *TR

PASSENGER DOORS DO NOT OPEN AUTOMATICALLY. THEY WILL NOT WORK FROM THE DRIVER CONTROLS, KEY FOBS, OR FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. THEY ARE LOCKED AND WILL NOT OPEN. WENT FROM WORKING FINE TO NOT WORKING AT ALL. NO ACCIDENT OCCURRED. BATTERY AND ALL ELECTRIC COMPONENTS ARE INTACT. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY OVER NIGHT AND NEXT MORNING THEY DIDN'T WORK. ALL OTHER FEATURES ON VEHICLE ARE AS THEY SHOULD.