2010 Dodge Journey Complaint Log

UPON ACCELERATION, THE PLASTIC GAS PEDAL BROKE OFF WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD.

I HAVE BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY CAR NOT STARTING FOR SEVERAL MONTHS. I WOULD HAVE TO TAKE THE FOB KEY OUT, TURN IT AROUND, AND INSERT IT AGAIN. AFTER DOING THIS IT WOULD FINALLY START. ON JUNE 17, 2013, I STOPPED AT AN AUTO PARTS STORE TO GET SOMETHING AND THEN COULDN'T LEAVE. WHEN I PUT THE KEY IN, THE INDICATOR ON THE DASHBOARD READ BAD KEY. A COUPLE DAYS LATER I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A DEALERSHIP TO GET A NEW KEY PROGRAMMED. THE ASSISTANT SERVICE MANAGER INFORMED ME HE RAN A DIAGNOSTIC AND IT CAME BACK THAT MY WIN MODULE WAS BAD AND I HAD TO REPLACE IT ALONG WITH 2 KEYS, A $968.00 BILL. I CHECKED ONLINE AND IT SEEMS THERE WAS A RECALL ON THIS MODULE BUT ONLY FOR THE "RING." MY CAR SUPPOSEDLY HAS HAD THIS PART REPLACED. I CONTACTED THE CHRYSLER AND AFTER TWO WEEKS OF GOING BACK AND FORTH WITH THEM AND THE DEALERSHIP, THEY INFORMED ME THEY WOULD NOT HELP DUE TO HIGH MILEAGE AND OUT OF WARRANTY. MY CAR STILL IS NOT FIXED BECAUSE OF FINANCIAL REASONS. WE ARE TOLD ONLY DEALERSHIPS CAN GET THIS PART, INSTALL IT, AND PROGRAM IT. MY GOOGLE SEARCHES ON THIS ISSUE SHOWS WAY TOO MANY RESULTS FOR THIS NOT TO BE A SERIOUS ISSUE THAT CHRYSLER REFUSES TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR. I RECALL NEEDS TO BE DONE ON THIS PART. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE ENGINE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE TRACTION CONTROL INDEPENDENTLY ACTIVATED AND DEACTIVATED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 49,000.

I HAVE OWNED THIS JOURNEY FOR LITTLE OVER 2 YRS NOW AND HAVE HAD 8 SETS OF BRAKES AND ROTORS PUT ON. TIE RODS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN KNOWN TO GO BAD ON ANY AND ALL DODGES AND THE TIRES HAVE BEEN REPLACED 3 TIMES NOW AS WELL. SUED DODGE ONCE ALREADY AFTER TRYING TO LEMON LAW THIS POS. IS IT GOING TO TAKE A FAMILY SUCH AS MINE DYING TO MAKE DODGE FIX THIS PROBLEM. WE PEOPLE CANNOT AFFORD TO SPEND 300-500 EVERY FEW MONTHS TO GET BRAKES AND ROTORS FIXED. PAY A TON OF MONEY FOR A VEHICLE AND SHOULDN'T HAVE TO FIX SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS BRAKES AND ROTORS BECAUSE THESE SO CALLED SMART ENGINEERS COULDN'T FIGURE OUT THAT THE SAME BRAKES AND ROTORS OFF OF A DODGE AVENGER SHOULDN'T BE PUT ON A DODGE JOURNEY 7 PASSENGER VEHICLE. OUR GOVERNMENT SHOULD CLOSE THESE KINDA PLACES DOWN BEFORE WE PEOPLE DECIDE TO DO IT OURSELVES BECAUSE NEXT TIME MY BRAKE AND ROTORS NEED REPLACED I AM DRIVING IT BACK TO DODGE WHERE I GOT IT AND THEY AREN'T GONNA LIKE ME AND THE NEWS WILL BE WITH ME AS WELL. WHAT THEY SHOULD HAVE TO DO FOR OUR INCONVENIENCES IS GIVE US ALL BRAND NEW CARS COMPARABLE TO OURS NOW OR A NEW DODGE JOURNEY WITH THE NEW BRAKES AND ROTORS ON THEM BECAUSE I HAVE SEEN THEM AND THE BRAKES AND ROTORS ARE MUCH MUCH BIGGER THAN THE TEENY TINY ONES I GOT ON MY CAR. BUT THAT WOULD BE TOO EASY BECAUSE THEY WANT US TO SPEND OUR HARD EARNED MONEY BECAUSE WE HAVE NO CHOICE AND WHEN WE TRY AND TRADE IT IN THEY BONE US BECAUSE THEY KNOW ITS WORTH CRAP. *TR

WENT TO HAVE MY BRAKES INSPECTED DUE TO A SCREECHING SOUND. THE SOUND AT 1ST LASTED ABOUT 2 WEEKS. BY THE TIME I MADE IT TO THE BRAKE SHOP IT OF COURSE STOPPED. UPON INSPECTION OF THE BRAKING SYSTEM WE WERE TOLD THAT IN 3 MORE DAYS THE BRAKES WOULD HAVE WENT OUT. WE DO NOT DRIVE HARD OR EVER HAVE TO STOP FAST. MY HUSBAND & I LEARNED THAT THE BRAKE SYSTEM HAS AN KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE BRAKE SHOP.. WE WERE TOLD THE BRAKES WILL SCREECH & THEN STOP WORKING IF NOT FIXED RIGHT AWAY! THAT'S VERY SCARY AS WE DON NOT WANT TO CRASH & KILL SOMEONE OR OUR SELVES. THE BRAKE SYSTEM FAILED STARTING WITH THE CALIPERS & WAS RUBBING IN THE PAD CAUSING EXTREME WEAR & IS WAS SAID THE MANUFACTURED BRAKE ARE NOT MADE TO STOP A VEHICLE SO HEAVY AS OURS. AND FOR THAT REASON WE WERE TOLD TO FILE A COMPLAINT. I CALLED DODGE & WAS TOLD THE WARRANTY HAS EXPIRED & WE WOULD HAD TO PAY FOR IT ON OUR OWN. ALSO WHEN WE BOUGHT THE DODGE IN 2010 BRAND NEW THE ALIGNMENT WAS OFF & WAS PULLING TO THE RIGHT. AFTER HAVING THE ALIGNMENT & BRAKES REPAIRED FOR A SECOND TIME IN UNDER 2YEARS IT IS CLEARLY AN ISSUE WITH THE BRAKE SYSTEM. THIS TIME IT WILL COST US $575.00 TO REPAIR JUST THE BRAKE SYSTEM.. THIS NEEDS TO BE RECALLED ASAP! BEFORE SOMEONE IS HURT OR KILLED!! AND DODGE SHOULD OWN UP TO THIS ISSUE! IN ADDITION THE A/C HAS A LOOSE CONNECTION & WILL STOP BLOWING FOR NO REASON. AND OTHER ISSUE TO DEAL WITH IN HOT WEATHER! *TR

IN JUNE OF 2013 MY CAR ALARM STARTED TO COME ON RANDOMLY. FIRST WHILE CAR WAS IN PARKED POSITION. DAYS AFTER IT THEN STARTED SOUNDING WHILE DRIVING, LEAVING MY THEN 6 YEAR OLDS HYSTERICAL. IT WAS HAPPENING SO MUCH THAT WE TOOK OUT THE FUSES. IN NOV 2014, WHILE ENTERING THE INTERSTATE EXIT MY CAR SHUT OFF GOING 35MPH AROUND A DEEP CURVE. I LOST ALL CONTROL OF STEERING AND ACCELERATION, BRAKES LOCKED UP. I WAS ABLE TO FORCE STEER TO SHOULDER AND TURN CAR OFF AND BACK ON. IT RAN OK UNTIL A COUPLE WEEKS LATER IT DID IT AGAIN. COMING HOME OFF INTERSTATE W/ KIDS IN CAR, CAR SHUT OFF WHILE GOING 40 MPH IN MID CURVE! NOW BEGINNING FEB 2015, MY BATTERY GOES DEAD REPEATEDLY. I'VE HAD TO HAVE IT JUMPED OFF ALMOST EVERY MORNING FOR LAST MONTH. I TOOK IT TO AUTO STORE AND BATTERY TESTED GOOD. MARCH 2015, BATTERY GOING DEAD AGAIN. I'VE HAD ACCREDITED MECHANIC LOOK AT IT WHO TESTED EVERYTHING ALONG W/ RELAYS. HE STATED BATTERY WAS GOOD BUT BASICALLY ALARM, ALTHOUGH IT'S NOT HEARD, ITS STILL WAKING UP AND DRAIN BATTERY. HE COULDN'T GO BEYOND THIS POINT TO FIX BECAUSE HE BELIEVED IT'S SOMETHING IN COMPUTER SYSTEM? I TOOK TO DEALER AND AFTER I EXPLAINED EVERYTHING TO THEM & BEEN WITHOUT A CAR FOR WEEK, THEY INSISTED IT BATTERY WAS BAD. SO WE HAVE REPLACED BATTERY, YET THEY DID NOT ADDRESS RANDOM ALARM/HORN. SO I TOOK BACK SAME DAY TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE B/C IT WILL CONTINUE. THEY NOW ARE SUGGESTING TO REPLACE HORN SWITCH OF WHICH AFTER LOOKING AT OTHER CONSUMERS I DON'T THINK WILL FIX THE PROBLEM. THERE IS SOMETHING IN THE CARS COMPUTER TRIGGERING THE ALARM BUT FOR SOME REASON THEY REFUSE TO CHECK THAT. I'M NOT SURE IF IT'S JUST BECAUSE THEY CAN'T GET AS MUCH MONEY FROM RESETTING COMPUTER OR NOT. I KNOW I DON'T HAVE MONEY TO THROW AWAY ON TRAIL & ERROR. WITH ALL THE COMPLAINTS ON THIS I CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW THE DEALERS/COMPANY CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP DOESN'T HAVE A SOLUTION. *TR

I CANT LIST THE EXACT DATE OF ALL THE INCIDENTS THAT HAVE HAPPEN BUT THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY OF THEM OVER THE LAST COUPLE OF YEARS THAT ITS IMPOSSIBLE TO KEEP TRACK OF. MY FIRST ISSUE WAS THREE YEARS AGO WHEN TRYING TO START THE CAR IT WOULD CLICK BUT NOT TURN OVER EVERYTHING WORKED SO WE KNEW IT WASN'T THE BATTERY. I WOULD HAVE TO REMOVE THE KEY AND SIT FOR SOMETIMES UP TO 10 MINUTES BEFORE THE CAR WOULD TURN OVER. AT THIS TIME THE CAR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY AND AT THE SAME TIME WE STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH THE PASSENGER WINDOW NOT ROLLING DOWN OR UP WITH THE BUTTON ON THE PASSENGER DOOR. DRIVER SIDE COULD ROLL THE WINDOW UP. WE TOOK IT IN AND UNFORTUNATELY BECAUSE THE DEALERSHIP COULDN'T MIMIC THE PROBLEMS WE WERE HAVING THE TOLD US THEY COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG AND SAID BRING IT BACK WHEN WE HAVE THE ISSUE AGAIN. SERIOUSLY HOW CAN I BRING YOU THE CAR WHEN IT WONT START. ON TO THE NEXT PROBLEM LAST OCTOBER DRIVING HOME ON THE FREEWAY GOING 60 MILES AND HOUR AT NIGHT MIGHT I ADD AND MY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM STARTS TO FAIL LIGHTS TURN OFF RADIO TURNS OFF AND THEN IMMEDIATELY TURNS BACK ON THANKFULLY I WAS ALMOST HOME SO MY HUSBAND LOOKED AT IT AND COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG AND IT HASN'T HAPPENED SINCE THANKFULLY BUT NOW WE ARE HAVING ISSUES WITH OUR RADIO TWO DAYS AGO IT STOPPED WORKING AGAIN. FIRST TIME MY HUSBAND GOGGLE THE PROBLEM AND WAS TOLD TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FOR AN HOUR AND THEN RECONNECT. THIS TOOK CARE OF THE PROBLEM BUT THIS TIME AROUND IT DOESN'T SEEM TO BE WORKING. SO KNOW I HAVE TO TAKE MY CAR IN TO HAVE THIS DIAGNOSED AGAIN. I WONT EVEN BEGIN TO TALK ABOUT THE CLICKING THAT COMES FROM BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX WHEN I TURN THE AC OR HEAT ON SOUNDS LIKE MY CAR IS GOING TO BLOW UP. I HAVE ONLY HAD THIS CAR FOR 5 YEARS BRAND NEW OFF THE LOT AND IT ONLY HAS 55,000 MILES ON IT HAS BEEN REGULARLY MAINTAINED SO THEIR SHOULD NOT BE THIS MANY ISSUES.

WHEN KEY WAS PLACED IN THE IGNITION THE CAR WOULD NOT START. AFTER A FEW HOURS, THE CAR WOULD START. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY OVER AND OVER. BROUGHT THE CAR INTO THE DEALER AND HAD THE IGNITION REPLACED AT MY OWN COST. IN JULY 2015, I RECEIVED A RECALL NOTICE AND HAD THE IGNITION REPLACED AGAIN. THE ISSUE IS STILL CONTINUING WITH NO RESOLVE.

UNSAFE CONDITIONS IN ALL THE ISSUES WRITTEN 6/20/16 5/13 40,000 MILES - NOW 81,000 MILES IGNITION SWITCH - ISSUES, THE KEY FOB WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION SWITCH. THE ENTIRE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SHUTS DOWN.....DOORS, WINDOWS, ANYTHING ELECTRIC DOES NOT WORK. THE DOOR LOCKS DON'T UNLOCK THE CAR REMAINS LOCKED AND PASSENGERS ARE NOT ABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR FOR A RANDOM PERIOD OF TIME. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON 3 OCCASIONS. HORN BLOWING WITHOUT PUSHING THE HORN, WHILE THE CAR IS IN MOTION AND/OR PARKED. STORMY WEATHER IRONICALLY INCREASES THE CHANCE OF RANDOM HORN BLOWING. VERY UNSAFE. BEGAN MARCH 2015, APPROX. 65,000 MILES. THE DEALER AND DODGE 800 853-1403 SAY THAT THE CARS VIN # IS NOT ONE THAT HAS HAD A RECALL. ON THIS SITE, OVER 700,000 DODGE VEHICLES HAVE HAD A RECALL WITH ELECTRICAL ISSUES. PAID APPROXIMATELY $900 IN LABOR AND PARTS (SEE INVOICE FROM HUFFINES DEALER), 2 BATTERIES IN 2 YEARS, 3/2015 $200.00, 6/20/16, $238.00

WE HAVE HAD SEVERAL INSTANCES WHERE OUR 2010 DODGE JOURNEY HAS FAILED TO START. YOU PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND EVERYTHING WORKS FINE EXCEPT THAT THE STARTER NEVER CRANKS OVER. I HAVE DONE A LOT OF SEARCHING TO SEE IF OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. A QUICK GOOGLE SEARCH RETURNS SEVERAL ACCOUNTS OF JOURNEYS NOT STARTING. MOST OF THESE COMPLAINTS REMAIN UNSOLVED. THERE SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM EITHER WITH WIRING OR WIN MODULES. WE HAVE NOT TAKEN OUR VEHICLE TO THE DEALER YET HOWEVER TODAY WAS THE 10TH TIME THAT THIS PROBLEM HAS ARISEN IN LESS THAN THREE WEEKS, OFTEN LEAVING US STRANDED COMPLETELY FOR HOURS. *TR

EVERYTHING FIRST STARTED ABOUT 4 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASE WITH THE SENSOR LIGHTS RANDOMLY COMING ON WHILE I WAS DRIVING. I HAVE REPLACED BRAKES AND ROTORS 4 TIMES. BUT THE PROBLEMS WITHIN THE LAST 4 MONTHS HAVE BEEN THE WORST. MY CAR WILL NOT START ALL THE TIME VERY UNRELIABLE. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE STARTER TWICE THE BATTERY TWO STARTER MODULES AND THE IGNITION AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. AS SOON AS IT'S POSSIBLE I WILL GET RID OF THIS CAR AND NEVER AGAIN AS LONG AS I LIVE WILL NEVER PURCHASE ANOTHER CHRYSLER PRODUCT. THEY ARE JUNK!!!! *TR

THE REAR BRAKES STARTED SQUEAKING, I HAD THE CHRYSLER DEALER INSPECT AND WAS TOLD THERE WAS NO RECALL ON THE BRAKES. I CALLED CHRYSLER CUSTOMER SERVICE TO SUBMIT A COMPLAINT AND WAS TOLD THAT MY WARRANTY EXPIRED BY YEARS. I CALLED THEM BECAUSE I READ THAT THEY WERE EXTENDING THE WARRANTY. I HAD TO REPLACE THE BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS AT 32,000 MILES. I RESEARCHED AND FOUND THAT THE PROBLEM IS THE BRAKES AND ROTOR IS TOO THIN FOR THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR AND THAT CHRYSLER DODGE KNEW ABOUT IN THEIR 2009 JOURNEY AND DIDN'T FIX IT IN THE 2010. THE "SHORT" EXTENSION OF THE WARRANTY IS NOT SUFFICIENT, THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL. I BOUGHT THIS CAR BECAUSE OF THE CLAIM OF DRIVABILITY AND LOW GAS MILEAGE SO DRIVING FAST IN THIS CAR DOESN'T HAPPEN. I DRIVE CAREFUL AND DO NOT DRIVE FAST OR BRAKE HARD SO THE REAR BRAKES SHOULD NOT HAVE WORN OUT. *TR

I HAVE ALSO BEEN DEALING WITH THIS SAME ISSUE FOR THE PAST 6-8 MONTHS AND BASED ON OTHER COMPLAINTS I HAVE READ I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE.. THE ELECTRICAL RANDOMLY GOES OUT WHILE DRIVING. SOMETIMES IT WILL COME BACK ON ITS OWN BUT MOST OF THE TIME I HAVE TO PULL OVER TO TURN CAR OFF AND RESTART. WINDOWS, BLINKERS, AC, RADIO, WIPERS, HAZARDS, AND EXTERIOR BRAKE LIGHTS, ETC GO OUT. (I DO NOT LOSE CONTROL OF DRIVING BUT FEAR THAT IS WHAT IS NEXT, BASED ON OTHER PEOPLE'S COMPLAINTS OF SIMILAR ISSUES). THE DEALERSHIP CANT FIND THE PROBLEM, COULDN'T REPLICATE ISSUE (HAD TURNED OFF CAR DESPITE MY TELLING THEM IT WORKS AFTER RESTARTED), AND TOLD ME TO BRING IT BACK NEXT TIME HAPPENS SO THEY CAN SEE (AS IF THEY DIDN'T BELIEVE ME)..I HAVE BOUGHT BACK AGAIN. ONLY HAVE APPROXIMATELY 3,000 MILES LEFT ON THE EXTENDED WARRANTY- SEEMS THEY ARE WAITING WARRANTY OUT. THIS IS A POSSIBLE DANGEROUS SITUATION THAT CAN CLAIM LIVES, IF SOMEONE DOESN'T SEE ME BRAKING, TRYING TO TURN, WIPERS WOULDN'T WORK DURING A RAIN DOWNPOUR ONCE.. DODGE NEEDS TO ADDRESS THIS AS A WHOLE!! *TR

WHEN I LOCK AUTO SITS FOR AWHILE THEN UNLOCKS THE TWO FRONT DOORS AND DROPS WINDOWS HALF WAY BY ITSELF? *TR

LOW AIR CAME ON THEN FOUND OUT THE TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM SENSOR NUT WAS CRACKED ON RIGHT REAR WHEEL AND THE VALVE STEM CRACKED ON LEFT REAR WHEEL. CALLED TWO DODGE DEALERS AND I WAS TOLD I WOULD HAVE REPLACE THE ENTIRE SENSOR AT A COST OF $130 EACH, AND THEY ARE REPLACING THEM WITH A NEW SENSOR WITH A RUBBER VALVE FOR THE SAME REASON I'M HAVING. THEY TOLD ME THE ALUMINUM PARTS(STEM AND NUT) ARE CORRODING FAST CAUSING BREAKAGE OR CRACKS. MY VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY WITH JUST OVER 33K MILES BUT MORE THAN 36 MONTHS. THE CAR WAS DRIVEN AT A LOW SPEED WHEN THE LIGHT CAME ON AND I THINK IT WOULD BE VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE THE CAR, ESPECIALLY IF AT HIGHWAY SPEED, AND THOSE PARTS FAIL WHICH WOULD CAUSE THE SENSOR TO POSSIBLY COME OFF AND THEN CAUSE A BLOW OUT TO THE POINT THE CAR MAY LOOSE CONTROL. THIS IS A FAMILY CAR AND IT IS RISKY TO HAVE THIS PROBLEM. THIS PROBLEM SHOULD BE A RECALL. SCHRADER, THE SENSOR MANUFACTURER, DOES HAVE REPLACEMENT SENSORS WITH RUBBER VALVES AT LESS THAN $50 RETAIL. *TR

MY CAR HAD BROKEN DOWN IN OCTOBER. THE TRANSFER CASE IN THIS CAR WAS COMPLETELY SHOT, AND COULD NOT EVEN BE REPAIRED. THE DEALERSHIP WOULD NOT FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY. WHEN THE TRANSFER CASE BROKE, IT LEAKED FLUID ONTO THE EXHAUST ON MY CAR, AND WAS CATCHING FIRE. I WAS JUST ABLE TO GET MY CAR FIXED, AND PUT 400 MILES ON IT, WHEN IT HAPPENED AGAIN. THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL AS I HAVE SPOKEN WITH DEALERSHIPS WHO HAVE TOLD ME THAT THIS IS A RECURRING ISSUE. *TR

THE CAR ALARM WILL GO OFF SPORADICALLY, NOT HONKING CONSISTENTLY. IT HAS GONE OFF WHILE DRIVING THE CAR AS WELL! THE KEY FOB WON'T TURN IT OFF SO I WOULD GO PULL OUT THE HORN FUSES UNDER THE HOOD. THE ALARM WILL STILL GO OFF WITHOUT THE HORN FUSES. IT IS OBVIOUS BECAUSE THE LIGHTS WILL FLICKER, AS IF THE ALARM IS GOING OFF, AND A CLICKING NOISE OF THE ALARM BEING ACTIVATED IS HEARD. DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO AND IT IS ANNOYING HAVING TO DRIVE AROUND WITHOUT MY HORN WORKING! WHEN THE ALARM GOES OFF, WE ARE NOT ACCIDENTALLY PRESSING THE KEY FOB BUTTONS. AGAIN, WHEN THE HORN HONKS DURING ALARM ACTIVATION, IT IS A SPORADIC HONKING LIKES THE CAR IS POSSESSED, RATHER THAN A CONSISTENT HONK. PLEASE HELP! *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE SPORADICALLY FAILED TO START IN ADDITION TO STALLING WHEN SITTING AT A COMPLETE STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE BATTERY WAS DEFECTIVE. THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED HOWEVER, THE REMEDY FAILED TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 23,505 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 32,000.

THE DODGE JOURNEY HAS A HISTORY OF TRANSMISSION FAULTS, LOUD AND NOISY AND ROUGH TRANSMISSION SHIFTS. WHILE SHIFTING INTO A GREAT IT WILL MAKE A LOUD THUD AND THE CAR WILL JERK. WE STARTED TO GET USED TO THIS AS IT HAS HAPPENED SINCE DAY 1. WE LET CHRYSLER KNOW ABOUT THIS AND APPARENTLY THIS IS "NORMAL." I HAVE NEVER HAD A SIMILAR ISSUE WITH ANY OTHER CAR SO TO ME IT IS NOT NORMAL. SO FAST FORWARD TO THIS PAST WEEKEND. WE WERE GOING TO TOW A FEW ITEMS AND DROP THEM OFF. SO EVERYTHING IS LOADED AND READY TO TOW, WE ARE ON A FLAT SURFACE WITH NO INCLINE AT ALL, START THE CAR UP AND PUT IT INTO DRIVE AND BAM! A LOUD NOISE WHILE WE TRIED TO PUT IT INTO GEAR. THE CAR WAS STILL RUNNING WHILE THIS HAPPENED AND WE STARTED TO ROLL BACKWARDS, WHILE IN DRIVE. I TRIED TO HIT THE GAS BUT IT JUST REVVED A FEW THOUSAND RPMS. I HIT THE BRAKES AND PUT IT INTO PARK AND THEN DRIVE AGAIN, BUT THE TRANSMISSION WAS STILL NOT ENGAGING. SOMETHING HAPPENED CAUSING THE LOUD BANG AND NO THROTTLE RESPONSE TO THE DRIVETRAIN. AFTER I PUT IT IN PARK, WALKED AROUND AND THEN GOT BACK IN STARTING THE CAR UP AGAIN; THE CAR ENGAGED GEAR THIS TIME. EVERYTHING RAN PERFECT AND THEN I TOOK IT TO THE CHRYSLER DEALERSHIP, THEY SAID THEY COULD FIND NO EVIDENCE WHAT HAPPENED OR WHAT WAS WRONG, BUT REASSURED ME AGAIN THAT THE LOUD TRANSMISSION SHIFTS ARE NORMAL. SO THIS COULD BE POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS IF THIS WAS TO HAPPEN WHILE ON THE ROAD OR AT A STOP SOMEWHERE. *TR

SEVERAL TIMES WITHIN THE PAST 1 1/2 MONTHS MY CAR HAS SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO RESTART IT WITH NO PROBLEM. MOST TIMES I AM DRIVING IN A PARKING LOT AFTER THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN SITTING AWHILE. THIS LAST TIME I HAD DRIVEN IT SEVERAL MILES BEFORE IT SHUT OFF. I WAS GOING OVER RAILROAD TRACKS WHEN IT HAPPENED THEN HAD TO MAKE A TURN WITH NO STEERING AND PULL OFF THE SIDE OF THE ROAD INTO THE GRASS BECAUSE THERE WERE VEHICLES BEHIND ME. THE DEALERSHIP SAYS SINCE THEY ARE NOT GETTING AN ERROR CODE THEY CAN'T REALLY DO ANYTHING. THEY TELL ME TO COME BACK WHEN THE PROBLEM BECOMES MORE FREQUENT AND THEY WILL TRY TO GET A CODE THEN. ALL THE RESEARCH I HAVE DONE SAYS THERE HAS BEEN A RECALL ON THIS MODEL FOR THE SAME ISSUE HOWEVER MY VIN NUMBER DOES NOT FALL WITHIN THE RANGE OF THOSE THAT HAVE BEEN RECALLED. THE ARTICLE SAYS IT IS THE WIN MODULE. *TR

AFTER HAVING THE BRAKES & ROTORS REPLACED IN JUNE OF 2012 AT 47K MILES, I STARTED HEARING A LITTLE SCREECH FROM MY BRAKES. I TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC AND PAID FOR AN INSPECTION. HE FOUND THE BRAKE HOSE HAD FAILED BECAUSE IT WAS NOT SUITABLE FOR THIS BIG OF A VEHICLE. IN RETURN THAT CAUSED THE CALIPER TO COMPRESS AGAINST THE ROTOR CAUSING ABNORMALLY FAST WEAR & TEAR ON THE BRAKE PADS. MY BRAKES, ROTORS, CALIPERS & BRAKE HOSE NEED TO BE REPAIRED AFTER 13K MILES. I AM HAVING TO REPLACE THE WHOLE BRAKE SYSTEM EVERY YEAR. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR BECAME LOCKED CLOSED AND THE CONTACT HAD TO EXIT THE VEHICLE USING THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE DOOR LATCH WAS FAULTY AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND NO SOLUTION WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 62,000.

OUR 2010 DODGE JOURNEY HAS A KEY ISSUE. IT STARTED A FEW MONTHS AGO, BUT WOULD ALWAYS WORK AFTER A FEW TRIES. WHEN YOU PUT THE KEY IN AND TURN IT, IT SAYS, "BAD KEY." SOMETIMES YOU COULD FLIP THE KEY AROUND AND IT WOULD WORK. TODAY IT WOULDN'T WORK AT ALL. NOW I HAVE TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND PAY FOR A NEW KEY. THERE SEEMS TO BE AN ONGOING ISSUE WITH A LOT OF PEOPLE AND THIS VEHICLE WHEN IT COMES TO KEY ISSUES. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ANTI-THEFT ALARM WOULD ACTIVATE INDEPENDENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS WHERE IT WAS STATED THAT THE ALARM TIPPER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BUT THE PROBLEM PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 59,000. *TR

WE HAVE HAD THE BRAKES DONE TWO TIMES NOW. *TR

WHEN DRIVING VEHICLE, THE POWER IN THE CAR GOES OUT. THIS INCLUDES LIGHTS, TURN SIGNALS, AC OR HEAT, RADIO, EMERGENCY SIGNALS,ETC. IN ORDER TO RECTIFY THIS, I MUST PULL OVER, TURN THE ENGINE OFF, AND RE-START THE CAR. THIS HAPPENS INTERMITTENTLY BUT AS OF LATE, IT IS HAPPENING VERY FREQUENTLY. A STAR CASE HAS BEEN OPENED WITH CHRYSLER. THE CAR HAS BEEN DIAGNOSED TWICE BY A CHRYSLER DEALER (AUG 2013 AND MAY 2014). THE PROBLEM COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSED AND HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT "IT IS WORKING AS DESIGNED". *TR

I HAVE HAD 2010 DODGE JOURNEY SINCE MAY 2012 AND NEEDED TO TAKE CAR TO DEALERLSHIP FOR ATLEAST 4 DIFFERENT ISSUES. HOWEVER, THE PROBLEM THAT OCCURED ON FEBRUARY 28, 2013 HAS ME BEWILDERED AND VERY UNEASY ABOUT DRIVING WITH MY FAMILY AND EVER EVER PURCHASING A DODGE OR CHRYSLER VEHICLE AGAIN-AND THE U.S.A. WANTS US TO BUY AND SUPPORT AMERICAN MADE PRODUCTS. ON 02/28/12, I WAS RUSHING TO GET MY SON TO A MEETING AND WHEN WE GOT OUT OF CAR, LOCKED THE DOOR AND WENT IN BUILDING. WHEN WE RETURNED, PUT THE KEY IN IGNITION AND JUST CLICKING NOISE WITH EVERYTHING WORKING EXCEPT FOR THE CAR CRANKING. I WAITED ABOUT 30 MINUTES AND THEN TRIED TO CRANK BUT NO SUCH LUCK. IT WAS LATE IN THE EVENING, AND HERE I AM WITH MY BABIES IN THE CAR, ON A SCHOOL NIGHT, AND TRYING TO CALL A TOW. MY COUSIN DID COME OUT, WE ATTEMPTED JUMPER CABLES AND THEN WENT TO GET GAS AND IT STARTED. I WENT TO THE GAS STATION TO FILL UP JUST IN CASE, IGNITION STILL ON AND THE CAR CUTS OFF AND DOESNT RESTART. I CONTACTED A TOW AGAIN AND AN HOUR AND HALF LATER WHEN TOW ARRIVED; IT CRANKED FOR THE TOW DRIVER. ONCE I GOT HOME AND PARKED, THE CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN. WHEN MY HUSBAND GOT HOME ABOUT 4HOURS LATER, IT STILL WOULD NOT CRANK. ON 3/1/13 ATTEMPTED TO TAKE KIDS TO SCHOOL AND CAR WOULD NOT START. IT DID FINALLY CRANK AFTER IT WAS TOO LATE AND WE TOOK TO A LICENSED MECHANIC TO COMPLETE A DIAGNOSTIC. HE KEPT ALL DAY TESTING AND TO NO AVAIL, NO CODES OR PROBLEMS APPEARED. IT DID CRANK BUT I'M VERY FEARFUL OF DRIVING THE CAR NOW WITH MY FAMILY. I CONTACTED SEVERAL DODGE DEALERSHIPS, DODGE CUSTOMER SERVICE, AND DODGE TECHAUTHORITY AND NO ONE SEEMED TO KNOW OR HAVE HEARD OF THE PROBLEM IM HAVING. *TR

TWICE TODAY, MY 2010 DODGE JOURNEY SHUT OFF AFTER MAKING A RIGHT HAND TURN. THE VEHICLE STOPPED ACCELERATING AND BECAME DIFFICULT TO TURN. LUCKILY, I WASN'T IN BUSY TRAFFIC AND NO ONE WAS TURNING BEHIND ME. OTHERWISE, MY KIDS AND MYSELF COULD HAVE BEEN SERIOUSLY INJURED FROM AN ACCIDENT. I CHECKED ON-LINE TO SEE IF ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM AND FOUND NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT SIMILAR ISSUES. I CALLED CHRYSLER AND THEY TOLD ME THAT MY VEHICLE DIDN'T QUALIFY FOR ANY RECALLS OF THAT NATURE. WHAT IF I WAS TRAVELING ON THE HIGHWAY WITH A SEMI-TRUCK BEHIND ME? *TR

I REPLACED IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS PADS TWICE, I REPLACE A ROTOR AND WHEEL BEARING, THIS COST ME OVER $450.00, DID NOT KNOW THAT WARRANT HAD BEEN EXTENDED FOR MY CAR. AFTER DOING ALL THIS AFTER A FEW MONTHS STILL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM TOOK IT INTO DEALER AND WAS TOLD THEY WOULD DO THE SAME THING AND I NEEDED TO PAY A $100.00 DEDUCTIBLE, HOPEFUL MY CAR WILL BE DONE TODAY. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, SHE WOULD HEAR A HARD KNOCKING NOISE FROM THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THEY ADVISED THAT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 65,000. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 71,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ALONG, NAVIGATIONAL SYSTEMS WENT BLANK, RADIO/PHONE/ETC WENT DEAD, AND TURN SIGNALS BECAME INOPERABLE (WAS ABLE TO USE EMERGENCY FLASHERS TO WARN OTHER DRIVERS WHILE CHANGING LANES). BROUGHT TO DEALER, WAS FOUND TO BE IGNITION MODULE DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY SO KEY ENDS UP IN INVALID POSITION - CAUSING SYSTEM FUNCTIONS TO NOT OPERATE. THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THIS IGNITION SWITCH, IN WHICH THEY P,LACED SPACERS TO KEEP THE SWITCH FROM ACTUALLY TURNING THE CAR OFF, BUT APPARENTLY, IT DOES NOT ACTUALLY FIX THE PROBLEM OF THE KEY GOING INTO THE WRONG POSITION, JUST REDUCES IT'S RANGE. THE MANUFACTURER CHARGED TO REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE IGNITION MODULE. *TR

THE BRAKING SYSTEM MAKES A LOUD CRUNCHING NOISE AND GETS MUSHY WHEN YOU'RE ON A SLIPPERY SURFACE MAKING IT HARD TO STOP.

THE PROBLEM I ENCOUNTERED WAS THAT THE STEERING WHEEL SHAKES VIOLENTLY IF BRAKES ARE PRESSED AT 60 MPH. THE MECHANICS AT CARMAX, MACHINED THE ROTORS AND REPLACED THE BRAKE PADS WHICH SEEMED TO FIX THE PROBLEM. ROUGHLY 3.5 TO 4 MONTHS LATER, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. THIS TIME, THE MECHANICS AT CARMAX REPLACED THE ROTORS AND THE FRONT BRAKES. THE VEHICLE WAS ONCE AGAIN PLACED INTO SERVICE LAST WEDNESDAY ON DECEMBER 18, 2013. ONCE AGAIN, THE ROTORS WERE MACHINED AND THE BRAKES REPLACED. I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE O JANUARY 17, 2013 WITH THE STARTING MILEAGE OF 34,904. I HAVE PUT ROUGHLY 10,000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE. WHEN I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN FOR THE THIRD TIME, I DECIDED TO LOOK ON THE INTERNET HOPING THAT MIGHT HELP. HOWEVER, I FOUND HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE WITH THE SAME VEHICLE THAT WERE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AS I WAS. I CONTACTED DODGE BUT THEY SAY THAT THIS IS A MAINTENANCE ISSUE. I BELIEVE THAT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. I HAVE 4 CHILDREN AND GOD FORBID THAT THE BRAKE SYSTEM SUDDENLY DECIDED THAT IT DOESN'T WANT TO WORK! APPARENTLY, THERE IS A FLAW IN EITHER PARTS OR DESIGN THAT NEEDS TO BE ACKNOWLEDGED AND CORRECTED BY DODGE. *TR

SINCE WE PURCHASED OUR DODGE JOURNEY IT'S BEEN NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WE OWN A 2010 JOURNEY. WE'VE HAD TO REPLACE BRAKES AND ROTORS, STEERING MAKES A VERY LOUD NOISE WHEN TURNING ALMOST SOUNDS LIKE ELECTRICITY AND MY VEHICLE IS NOT THE ONLY ONE I WITNESS THE SAME PROBLEM WITH ANOTHER PERSONS CAR SAME DODGE JOURNEY WE ALWAYS GET OUR CAR THE NECESSARY OIL CHANGES AND MY ENGINE MAKES A VERY FUNNY NOISE EVEN OUR MECHANIC WAS WORRIED HE TOLD US THAT OUR CAR IS STILL NEW THAT MY ENGINE HAS TO BE LEAKING BECAUSE EVERYTIME WE GET OUR ROUTINE OIL CHANGES IT SEEMS LIKE THE CAR IS LOW ON OIL. ALSO WHEN I START DRIVING AWAY IT LOSES SPEED AND MAKE A VERY UGLY SOUND. THIS IS BY FAR THE WORST INVESTMENT EVER DO NOT THROW YOUR MONEY AWAY ON ANYTHING DODGE OR CHRYSLER GARBAGE EXPENSIVE GARBAGE THEN WHEN YOU CALL THEM UP THEY SAY THEY CAN'T DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. I THINK THE GOVERNMENT SHOULD BE MORE STRICT ON THESE KIND OF THINGS THIS IS OUR MONEY HERE WE PAY TAXES ON THESE CAR MORE SHOULD BE DONE TO PROTECT THE CONSUMER. *TR

ISSUES WITH STARTING CAR, ERRATIC DASHBOARD LIGHTS, AND FLICKERING POWER DROPS WHEN VEHICLE IS IN MOTION. THIS IS RELATED TO THE IGNITION KEY AND THE IGNITION SWITCH (WIN MODULE) IT'S INSERTED TO. WHEN THE CAR WON'T START YOU HAVE TO MOVE THE KEY AROUND IN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO GET IT TO FINALLY START THE CAR. I'VE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALERSHIP ON A FEW OCCASIONS AND HAD THEM LOOK AT THIS PROBLEM. MOST OF THE TIME THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING. ON ONE OCCASION THEY CHANGED OUT THE BATTERY. THAT DID NOT HELP. THIS ISSUE HAS HAPPENED RARELY BACK WHEN THE CAR HAD APPROXIMATELY 50,000 MILES ON IT. NOW IT HAS 140,000, AND HAPPENS QUITE OFTEN. I'M WORRIED IT MIGHT SHUT OFF DRIVING IN TRAFFIC AND CAUSE A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE REGARDING MY WIFE, CHILD, AND ANYONE ELSE AROUND THE VEHICLE. I'M ALSO WORRIED, ESPECIALLY LATE AT NIGHT AT HER JOBS PARKING LOT, IT WILL LEAVE HER STRANDED DUE TO THE CAR NOT STARTING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE ENGINE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION AND THE CONTACT WAS ADVISED THAT THE EGR VALVE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 74,000.

SINCE PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE JUST A FEW MONTHS AGO WE HAVE EXPERIENCED NUMEROUS INCIDENTS WHERE IT WOULDN'T CRANK ON THE FIRST TRY BUT ALWAYS ON THE SECOND TRY. THIS TIME WE WERE OUT TO DINNER AND IT WOULDN'T CRANK AFTER NUMEROUS TRIES SO WE TRIED JUMPING IT OFF BUT ALL THE ELECTRICAL WAS WORKING SO IT WASN'T THE BATTERY, AFTER WAITING ABOUT 30 MINUTES WE TRIED IT AND IT CRANKED SO WE ASSUMED IT WAS THE STARTER. HOWEVER AFTER RESEARCHING THE PROBLEM ONLINE I GLAD I DIDN'T GO PUTTING A STARTER AND BATTERY ON IT AS IT APPEARS TO BE A RAMP-ID PROBLEM THAT THE DEALERS AREN'T ACKNOWLEDGING AND CAN LEAVE FAMILIES STRANDED WITH NO IDEA WHAT TO DO. THERE ARE CHRYSLER MECHANICS ON THESE FORUM SITES THAT ADMIT THEY KNOW ABOUT THE PROBLEM AND SAY THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ISSUED WITH THE AMOUNT OF COMPLAINTS BUT CHRYSLER WON'T DO IT. *TR

VEHICLE WILL STALL JUST AFTER IT HAS BEEN STARTED. IT WILL SOMETIMES ONLY DO THIS ONCE AND OTHER TIMES IT WILL TAKE MULTIPLE RE-STARTS BEFORE IT STAYS RUNNING. THIS IS A WEEKLY OCCURRENCE. OTHER TIMES IT WILL STALL WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. SO FAR, IT HAS ALWAYS RESTARTED. I HAVE TRIED BOTH KEY FOBS AND REPLACED BOTH BATTERY'S I HAVE FOUND MULTIPLE WEB SIGHTS (INCLUDING THIS ONE AT AN EARLIER DATE) STATING DODGE IS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM AND AT ONE POINT HAD A RECALL SCHEDULED. RECALL # L02 BUT NOW IT SEEMS NOT IT IS NOT A VALID RECALL. *TR

SQUEAKING NOISE WHILE DRIVING. WAS TOLD BY DEALERSHIP IT IS THE REAR BRAKES. THEY ARE AT 10% AND THE ROTORS ARE TOO THIN TO BE MACHINED. CALLED CHRYSLER BECAUSE THEY ARE ONLY UNDER WARRANTY FOR 12,000 MILES AND THEY WILL NOT HELP OUT. I HAVE NEVER HAD A VEHICLE NEED REAR BRAKES BEFORE 80,000 MILES AND THEN NOT BEING ABLE TO MACHINE THE ROTORS BECAUSE THEY ARE TOO THIN...I ONLY HAVE 35000 MILES. I HAVE ALSO HAD TO HAVE THE FRONT BRAKES REPLACED AT 21000 MILES BECAUSE THE ROTORS ARE WARPED ( CHRYSLER COVERED THE REPAIR BECAUSE IT IS A PROBLEM WITH MANY JOURNEYS AND THE EXTENDED THE WARRANTY TO 36000 MILES. MY BRAKES ARE AGAIN PULSATING BUT I HAVE TO REPLACE THE REARS BEFORE THEY WILL CHECK THE FRONTS). *TR

I HAVE A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY THAT HAS BRAKES AND ROTORS CHANGED TWICE IN 24,000 MILES DUE TO WARPING CAUSING SHAKING TO THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED. DODGE RECOGNIZED THE PROBLEMS AND HAS EXTENDED THE WARRANTY TO 36,000 MILES BUT HAS NOT FOUND AND/OR OFFERED A ROOT CAUSE AND PERMANENT REPAIR TO THE PROBLEM. WHAT HAPPENS AFTER 36,000 MILES? SOMEONE NEEDS TO PUT PRESSURE ON CHRYSLER TO FIX THIS DESIGN FLAW THAT WILL ULTIMATELY CAUSE ACCIDENTS FROM THIS ISSUE. AN INTERNET SEARCH "DODGE JOURNEY BRAKE PROBLEM" WILL SHOW YOU THE MAGNITUDE OF THIS PROBLEM WITH DODGE JOURNEYS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE IN PARK, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE FAILURE RECURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 14V373000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, AIR BAGS ) HOWEVER, THE PART NEEDED TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 42,000. UPDATED 11/18/15*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED THE IGNITION MODULE WAS REPLACED AND TWO NEW ELECTRONIC FOBS. UPDATED 1/14/2015*JS *CN

I AM THE OWNER OF A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY SXT AWD. I FINANCED THE VEHICLE IN NOV 2011. AT THE TIME OF PURCHASE, THE VEHICLE HAD A LITTLE MORE THAN 19,000 MILES. ALMOST 4 YEARS LATER, I NOW HAVE 96,000 MILES DUE TO MY CONSTANT TRAVEL IN MY CITY OF RESIDENCE AND OUT OF STATE. THE FIRST INCIDENTS WITH THE VEHICLE STARTED IN LATE 2012 WITH THE VEHICLE NOT STARTING WHEN ATTEMPTING TO TURN IT ON. YOU WOULD HEAR A CLICK BUT IT WOULD NOT START HOWEVER THE DASH WOULD LIGHT UP. THIS CONTINUED TO HAPPEN FOR SEVERAL MONTHS ON AND OFF UNTIL MY HUSBAND CONTACTED THE DEALERSHIP AND WE WERE TOLD ABOUT THE RECALL. VEHICLE WAS TAKEN IN AND RECALL ISSUE FIXED OR SO WE THOUGHT. VEHICLE STARTED SAME ISSUE OF NOT STARTING ALL OVER AGAIN. CONTACTED DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD NO FURTHER RECALLS WERE ON THIS VEHICLE. JUMP FORWARD TO OCT 2014. I MOVE TO VA AND I'M OUT ONE DAY SHOPPING AND THE VEHICLE AGAIN DOES NOT START. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE THAT TIME OFF AND ON. AND NOW AS OF FEB 2015 I STARTED HAVING A BAD KEY MESSAGE COME UP WHEN I ATTEMPT TO TURN ON MY CAR. HAPPENED TWICE WHILE OUT ON FEB 4TH AND AGAIN TODAY ON FEB 5TH. ATTEMPTED TO TURN ON CAR 4 TIMES BEFORE IT WOULD START, EACH TIME GIVING ME THE MESSAGE BAD KEY. THIS IS RIDICULOUS. THIS VEHICLE IS A PIECE OF CRAP AND DODGE/CHRYSLER REFUSES TO ADDRESS THESE ISSUES. I HAVE READ SEVERAL STORIES ON LINE FROM PEOPLE WHO ARE HAVING THESE SAME ISSUES AND MORE IN ADDITION TO THIS. I AM AFRAID THAT THIS VEHICLE WHEN START SHUTTING DOWN WHILE I AM DRIVING NEXT. IT IS THE MOST UNRELIABLE VEHICLE I HAVE EVER OWNED. I CANNOT TRADE IT IN BECAUSE I OWE MORE MONEY THAT THIS VEHICLE IS WORTH. I TRULY REGRET EVER BUYING IT. SO NOW INSTEAD OF THE CAR NOT TURNING ON AT ALL ONE WAY, IT NOW DOES THE SAME THING BY WAY OF THE KEY. THE OTHER KEY I HAVE STOPPED WORKING IN EARLY 2013 SO I ONLY HAVE ONE KEY AND CANNOT AFFORD TO PAY $300 FOR A NEW KEY. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY EQUIPPED WITH KUMHO TIRES, SIZE 225/55/R19. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS THE VEHICLE WOULD VEERED TO THE RIGHT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION AND THEY STATED THAT IT WAS A WEAR AND TEAR ISSUE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE DOT WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE MANNUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE TIRE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000. THE VEHICLE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW DID NOT FUNCTION, THE VEHICLE EXPERIENCED A COMPLETE LOSS OF POWER, THE KEY FOB WOULD NOT OPEN THE DOOR, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START, THE DOOR OPENED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, AND THE HORN INDEPENDENTLY FUNCTIONED ON ITS OWN. IN ADDITION, ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE VIN WAS EXCLUDED FROM NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 14V373000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 100,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH, THE VEHICLE SHUT OFF WITHOUT WARNING. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS, THE VEHICLE RESTARTED BUT SHUT OFF AGAIN AFTER THE CONTACT DROVE A FEW FEET. THE FAILURE RECURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100,000.

THE CAR WILL INTERMITTENTLY NOT START. IF YOU WAIT ABOUT 20 MINUTES, IT WILL START AGAIN ON ITS OWN. I HAVE HAD THE BATTERY CHANGED/THE STARTER CHANGED AND NUMEROUS MECHANICS LOOK AT IT ONLY TO TELL ME THERE IS NOTHING WRONG. I HAVE BEEN STRANDED AT HOME- GOING TO WORK, AT THE GROCERY STORE- WITH MILK AND ICE CREAM. THIS HAPPENS MORE FREQUENTLY NOW AND I RECENTLY HAD IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC WHERE IT STARTED ON ITS OWN. *TR

I BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE IN 2010. I HAVE NOW HAD 5 TIMES WHERE THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START. I WILL BE RUNNING ERRANDS AND THEN GET IN THE VEHICLE TO START IT AND ALL IT DOES IS CLICK. I'VE TRIED TO JUMP IT BUT IT WILL NOT WORK. IF YOU WAIT 3-4 HOURS IT MOST LIKELY WILL START. DURING SEVERAL OF THESE TIMES, I'VE HAD MY KIDS WITH ME. THE CAR NEEDED TO BE TOWED AND BY THE TIME THE SERVICE MEN WILL START IT, IT STARTS RIGHT UP. THEY DID SWITCH OUT MY KEYS A FEW TIMES, BUT IT JUST HAPPENED AGAIN THIS WEEKEND. I WAS STRANDED IN A DIFFERENT CITY WITH NO RIDE. THE DEALERSHIP / SERVICE REPAIR MAN HAS NO IDEA WHAT THE CAUSE IS. YOU DON'T KNOW WHEN THIS IS GONG TO HAPPEN. THIS VEHICLE IS NOT RELIABLE AND IT IS UNSAFE. IF YOU LOOK ONLINE AND SEARCH THIS PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE YOU WILL FIND 100'S OF COMPLAINTS. *TR

DRIVING VEHICLE LOCALLY, MAKING SEVERAL STOPS. THE LAST STOP, WHEN I RETURN TO CAR ABOUT 8:00PM WITH MY CHILDREN, CAR WOULDN'T START. ATTEMPTED TO GET IT JUMPED OFF AND THAT DIDN'T WORK. ABOUT 10:00P IT STARTED. I STOPPED BY THE GAS STATION TO FILL UP, CUT IT OFF, AND IT WOULDN'T START AGAIN. I CONTACTED AAA, WHEN THEY FINALLY ARRIVED ABOUT 45 MIN LATER, IT STARTED. THIS OCCURRED AROUND OCTOBER 2012 IT OCCURRED AGAIN AROUND APRIL 2013, AGAIN MAY 2013, AGAIN JANUARY 2014, MARCH 2014, DECEMBER 2014, AND MARCH 2015. *TR

PREMATURE WEARING OF BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS. *TR

A CONTINUING FAILURE TO START. FOLLOWING A ELECTRICAL SYSTEM RECALL MY 2010 JOURNEY HAS FAILED TO START ON OCCASION AND BECAME A PROBLEM, CREATING AT TIMES A RISK OF BEING IN THE WRONG PLACE. WE HAVE SO LITTLE CONFIDENCE IN THIS VEHICLE, WE NO LONGER DRIVE AFTER DARK. WHEN REFUELING, I DON'T SHUT THE CAR OFF. (SAFETY ISSUE) HOWEVER; IT SHOULD BE KNOWN THAT SETTING THE ALARM SYSTEM, THEN TRIGGERING THE SYSTEM AND PUTTING THE FOB INTO THE IGNITION TO CLEAR ALARM, VEHICLE HAS STARTED EACH TIME. THE DEALER THINKS I SHOULD PAY TO HAVE A COMPUTER CHECK THE SYSTEM. BASED ON OTHER STORIES POSTED BOTH HERE AND ON, JUST ANSWER WEB SIGHT A COMPUTER WOULD BE OF NO VALUE. *TR