2017 Hyundai Elantra Complaint Log

The brakes on this car are HORRIFYING. Sometimes the brakes shudder so hard that your body will physically lurch forward with the braking. (and this is only when braking from 45-50 mph, anymore feels like the car is falling apart) It feels almost as if the right front brake is ‘sticking’ causing the car to brake unevenly and stop later than it should. Sometimes I have to fully push down on the brakes to get it to stop all the way. Sometimes I will let go of the brakes and the car will slow down itself in a strange lurky way…. If I am going over 70 like on the interstate, and push on the brakes, they feel as if they cannot handle braking… The whole car, steering wheel, peddles and all vibrate intensly like the car is about to fall apart. and I’ve had many scary encounters where I have to glide my car out to the right to get the car to stop in time. I have taken into the Hyundai dealership multiple times. They always say nothing is wrong with it. I have owned this car less than a year and it is just now hitting 47,000 miles. The brakes just feel wrong. The car stability is almost nonexistant. I feel every bump or slight dip in the road, and the car follows them roughly. When braking while hitting a bump, I might as well not use them, as they won’t lock in until after the rough road. Scary car.

37K MILES. IT STARTED WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING ROUGHLY, SO WE REPLACED A COIL OURSELVES. SEEMED TO FIX THE ISSUE BUT A WEEK LATER THERE WAS AN INTERMITTENT NOISE FROM THE ENGINE WHICH SOUNDED LIKE A VERY SMALL EXHAUST LEAK (LIKE PFFFFFT). OCCASIONALLY, ALSO INTERMITTENT, THE ENGINE WOULD MAKE A VERY LOUD CLANKY NOISE. CAR SHUT OFF WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING <5 MPH. OUR MECHANIC SAID THE CODE WAS FOR THE 2ND COIL, SO WE REPLACED ALL 4 & SPARK PLUGS - JUST TO BE SAFE. TWO DAYS LATER, THE SAME NOISE ISSUES RETURNED AND THE CAR SHUT OFF TWICE WHILE DRIVING IN A WELL-TRAFFICKED DOWNTOWN AREA (5-10 MPH). IT DID NOT MAKE NOISE OR STALL WHILE IDLING. WE HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE SAME MECHANIC, NO CODES THIS TIME. HE REPLICATED THE ISSUES BY LETTING THE CAR IDLE FOR AN HOUR, THEN DRIVING IT 5-10 MILES, IT MADE NOISES AND STALLED WHILE GOING UP A VERY SLIGHT INCLINE AT <5 MPH. HE SAID IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING TO DO WITH A LOSS OF OIL PRESSURE SENDING THE ENGINE OUT OF TIME, AND THE LOUD NOISE IS THE CRANKSHAFT. I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CARS AND AM JUST REPEATING WHAT WAS TOLD TO ME. AT THIS TIME HE DRAINED SOME OIL AND FOUND METAL SHAVINGS. HE SAID HE COULD LOOK INTO THE PROBLEM BUT HE WOULD HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE AND PROBABLY TAKE IT APART. HE DIDN'T WANT US TO WASTE MONEY TRYING TO DIAGNOSE WHAT SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN ISSUE AND A BLOWN ENGINE. ALSO NOTED THAT THERE ARE FEW, IF ANY REPLACEMENT ENGINES OUT THERE. IN THE PAST FEW MONTHS, I'VE HAD A TIRE SENSOR MALFUNCTION, THE RADIO/MEDIA SCREEN GO BLANK MULTIPLE TIMES, AND THE PASSENGER SEATBELT NOTIFICATION GOES OFF EVEN WHEN IT'S JUST MY CELL PHONE AND WALLET ON THE SEAT. ALL OF THE ELECTRICAL ISSUES SELF-RESOLVED SO I DIDN'T EVEN HAVE TIME TO GET TOO ANNOYED BEFORE THIS MAJOR ENGINE FAILURE. THREE WEEKS FROM THE FIRST NOISE UNTIL THIS POINT.

Engine make a lot of noise when I started, I have a situation where the engine stall and have to come to an stop, I bought the car about 2 years ago I took to the mechanic and I been told that engine has a problem and needs to be replaced staying that he has seen this problems on several vehicles same as mine with the same kind of engine, I took to the dealer and they told me the same thing but they said they can do anything about it. I don't know what to do with something like this its practically a brand new car, I also contact manufacturer with no luck.

I have a 2017 pearl white Elantra and The paint is peeling off on my hood and my roof. The car is only 4 years old and I just hit above 30000 miles when this issue started. Even a coworker of mine who has the exact same car is having the same issue and her car basically has no paint left. Many people are having this issue and it’s disappointing that Hyundai won’t compensate their customers to get it fixed. Every time my car gets wet it gets worse it’s really ridiculous and looks TERRIBLE. Way too expensive to fix.

DRIVER SIDE DOOR PERIODICALLY WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUT. JUST STARTED HAPPENING ABOUT 2 WEEKS AGO. THOUGHT IT WAS MY KEY FOB DYING HOWEVER I REPLACED THE BATTERY AND IT STILL IS CAUSING THE SAME ISSUE.

REAR PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. LOCK MECHANISM OPENS AND CLOSES WITH FOB OR DOOR UNLOCK BUTTON BUT DOOR WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while starting the vehicle, there was an abnormal sound coming from the engine compartment. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was towed and diagnosed but not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure but offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 42,803.

I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport and I do not put excessive miles on my car, I do not drive hard and I do not beat on my car. Today my father pointed out that one my tires appeared to have "DRY ROT." and he said that tire is dangerous and needs to replaced. Then I told him my other tires also had the same cracking or dry rot on them. I do not know a thing about tires I thought that was normal wear and tear. I told my father I have already replaced two of these tires on my ELANTRA I have owned a year because the garage said the tires were unsafe; I had no idea what "DRY ROT." Now that this "DRYROT" was pointed out to me I realized the other tires I replaced also had that cracking all around the tire and I am going to look for old pictures that will verify this. IN the meantime once again It looks like I am going have to purchase another new tire because of this irregular tire wear . Today I discovered there is a recall on the exact same tires I have on my car; two of which I have already replaced. This recall on the HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 tire seems to go by tire size and maybe my tire size is not on that recall but I have the same problem as you can see from my photos as described on the recalled HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 and it is an obvious problem with more than a select few tire sizes. Please look at pictures of my defective tire; I have already replaced two others, on a car that has 38,000 miles on car; and I have always rotated my tires every other change. Given I have already replaced two of these defective HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 tires already, I still have two HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 one is a size 225/40R18 88W and the other is 225/40ZR18 92W.

THE BACK DOOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF MY VEHICLE SUDDENLY STOPPED OPENING. THE DOOR IS UNLOCKED BUT IT WONT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE NOR THE OUTSIDE. I HAVE FOUND THAT THIS IS A RAMPANT ISSUE ON THIS VEHICLE. IT IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE AS MY TODDLER CANNOT GET OUT OF THE CAR.

**NON SAFETY ISSUE** Purchased my 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE (Pearl White) used back in August of 2019 with around 30,000 miles on it. No issues at all. After one year back in summer of 2020 I got out my car and noticed a chunk of paint missing from my roof (around the size of half a football). I was immediately concerned. I contacted the dealer I got it from, they advised me to contact Hyundai so I contacted my local Hyundai dealer and they told me I was over the 30,000 mile paint warranty, nothing could be done but they could get me an estimate. I did some research, found tons of articles with tons of people having the same issue, same location on same vehicle, same color. I also found a article about a lawsuit filed against Hyundai for Elantra's year 2009-2016 for paint issue. I saw Hyundai won based off the fact they offer a 30,000 mile paint warranty. This scared me away from trying to pursue Hyundai so I waited a bit and hoped to see if a recall would be issued. Then maybe 4 months ago I went to wash my car and after hitting it with water a softball size chunk of paint chipped off my driver door. I then contacted Hyundai and asked that something be done. Hyundai's body shop wrote an estimate and submitted it to Hyundai. It was an over priced estimate in my opinion so I took it to my local (and well respected) body shop and they wrote me an estimate for exactly half the cost. Hyundai then responded they would cover half the cost. But only at a Hyundai body shop. Either shop I take it to I would owe $1,000 out of my pocket. Unacceptable to me and a lot of money for me. Both shops stated it was a manufacturing defect and I believe the manufacturer should cover the costs. I tried contacting Hyundai's corporate line and they advised me a rep would call me to speak to me about their decision. It has been a month now and no response still. I don't know what to do or who to have help. The car is all but 4 years old and the paint is getting worse daily. I need help.

I HAVE HAD SEVERAL INSTANCES NOW OF MY DOORS EITHER FAILING TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE AND HAVING TO BE OPENED FROM THE INSIDE, OR BEING JAMMED ALTOGETHER AND UNABLE TO OPEN. THE MOST RECENT OCCURRENCE BEGAN HAPPENING ABOUT A WEEK AGO TO MY DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR, ALTHOUGH I BELIEVE ALL 4 DOORS HAVE BEEN AFFECTED. I HAVE ALL DOCUMENTATION AND RECEIPTS ON FILE, ALTHOUGH I AM UNABLE TO UPLOAD IT AT THIS TIME.

THE DRIVER'S DOOR ONLY OPENS ABOUT 10% OF THE TIME FROM THE OUTSIDE. IT OPENS FINE FROM THE INSIDE. I USUALLY HAVE TO GET IN THE PASSENGER'S SIDE AND OPEN THE DRIVER'S DOOR FROM THE INSIDE TO GET IN THE CAR.

3 OF 4 DOORS WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE AND/OR OUTSIDE. ONLY DRIVER SIDE DOOR NOW OPENS.

HYUNDAI AVOIDS TAKING CARE OF THEIR CARS BY SENDING OUT GENERAL STATEMENTS FOR TECHS TO "FIX" THESE ISSUES BUT THEY NEVER DO THEY SAY I DIDNT HEAR IT WHEN BROUGHT IN MULITPLE SUSPENSION ELECTRICAL ISSUES MY HUSBANDS 2019 HYUNDAI ELETRICAL GOING OUT. THE ENGINE ISSUE ALL THEY DID WAS SAY DIDNT DO IT FOR ME. THEY NEED TO REPLACE ALL THESE KNOWN ISSUES IT IS BRAKING DOWN THE WHOLE VEHICHLE FOR BOTH OF US. I BELIEVE HYUNDAI IS NEGLIGENT IN WORRYING ABOUT THE COST OF AFULL RECALL SO THEY DENY ANYTHING.I HAVE VIDEOS DOCUMENTS, MY CAR WENT FROM RED GAS TO GREEN RANDOM CLICKS DETERIORATION. MY HUBSANDS CAR IS THE ONLY OWNER ENGINE SHUDDERS RANDOMLY THEY DO A FAKE IINVESTIGATION. HYUNDAI DOES NOT CARE IF YOU DIE.

IN ALL EVENTS, THE DRIVER SIDE BACK-SEAT DOOR WILL NO LONGER OPEN FROM EITHER THE INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF THE CAR. THE DRIVER DOOR ALSO HAS TROUBLE OPENING AND YOU HAVE TO LEAN ON THE DOOR FIRST BEFORE IT WILL OPEN. THESE POSE SIGNIFICANT SAFETY THREATS IN THE EVENT OF HAVING TO QUICKLY LEAVE THE CAR IN AN EMERGENCY. PASSENGERS IN THE BACK WILL BOTH HAVE TO LEAVE THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IF SOMETHING WERE TO HAPPEN. THIS IS ALSO A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH THIS SPECIFIC MODEL OF CAR.

Three out of the four doors are not opening properly. They are either not opening from the inside, not opening from the outside or both. Dealer confirms the problem. If there was a serious accident and evacuation was necessary this would be a serious issue.

I AM 2ND OWNER OF VEHICLE (BOUGHT WITH 36252 MILES) AROUND 76XXX VEHICLE STARTING MAKING TICKING NOISES I BROUGHT INTO CARMAX WHERE I WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG. I GOT AN OIL CHANGE AND WENT ON MY WAY. 2 DAYS LATER THE CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. BROUGHT IT BACK CARMAX AGAIN STATES NOTHING WRONG. THE CAR IS CONSTANTLY SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING LONG DISTANCE. AT 90525 MY CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING ON A BRIDGE BROUGHT IT INTO HYUNDAI WERE THEY STATED I NEEDED A NEW MOTOR BUT IT WASNT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY DUE TO "SLUDGE" I LIVE IN FL ITS HOT AND I LIVE DOWN A 3 MILE BACKROAD THAT WILL CAUSE BUILD UP ACCORDING TO RESEARCH. HYUNDAI WONT HELP AND THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE ESPECIALLY FOR MY KIDS NOW IM STUCK MAKING PAYMENTS ON A CAR THAT CANT BE DRIVEN AND IM 2000 IN RENTAL CAR FEES. AND DONT HAVE THE BEST CREDIT TO GET ANOTHER CAR. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ASAP AS I SEE THIS COMPLAINT MULTIPLE TIMES

The paint on my vehicles roof is peeling off. I’ve attached 2 photos. One of when in first started and the other is current.

I TOOK MY VEHICLE IN FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND THEY STATED THAT THE BALL JOINT ARE LOOSE AND STRUTS/SHOCKS ARE CIRCLE ON THE INSPECTION FORM. I STILL HAVE MY WARRANTY ON THE VEHICLE.

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA BEGAN TO SHAKE AND REFUSED TO SHIFT ABOVE 40MPHS ON A ROAD POSTED 45. THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE RMP GAUGE SHOW THAT IT WAS STUCK AT 2RMPS. I SLOWED THE VEHICLE AND TURN ON MY FLASHERS AND IN MY TRAVELING TO A SAFE PULL OFF LOCATION. THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF, THE SHAKING STOPPED, AND THE CAR RESUME A NORMAL SHIFTING PATTERN. THE VERY NEXT DAY WHILE TRAVELING IN THE CAR THE SAME THING OCCURRED. I EXPLAINED THE PROBLEM WHEN ARRIVED AT HYUNDAI AND WHILE IDLING AND WAITING TO THE CAR PERSON TO CHECK ME IN. THE CAR BEGAN TO DO SHORT SHUDDERS; THIS WAS DIRECTLY WITNESSED BY A CAR SERVICE EMPLOYEE. THE 2ND CYLINDER IGNITION COIL WAS REPLACED. IN MY SECOND VISIT I WAS SURE OF WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS BECAUSE I HAD EXPERIENCED THE SAME CAR SYMPTOMS SEVERAL MONTHS EARLIER. HERE IS THE PROBLEM THIS WAS SECOND CYLINDER I HAVE HAD TO HAVE REPLACED IN ABOUT 3000 MILES AND SEVERAL MONTHS; MY CAR ONLY HAS 25,0000 MILES. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE ON THE REPAIR FORM IT STATES ECU UPGRADE.

WE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH OUR 2017 ELANTRA. DOOR LOCK OPERATES JUST FINE BUT THE DOOR WON'T OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY HAZARD AS WE HAVE OUR KIDS OUT IN THE BACK AND NEED TO BE ABLE TO GET THEM OUT QUICKLY

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 2 MPH AND WHILE DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER PALM SPRINGS HYUNDAI (3919 E PALM CANYON DR SUITE A, PALM SPRINGS, CA 92264, (760) 202-8888) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH NEEDING THE BRAKE CIRCUIT ERROR SWITCH TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS BEEN REPAIRED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 18,646.

I BOUGHT MY 2017 ELANTRA SE 2.0 IN APRIL OF 2020 MY CAR KEEPS STALLING WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS AND WHEN I MAKE TURNS LEFT OR RIGHT AT LOW SPEEDS VERY SCARY AND UNSAFE AND ALSO ENGINE NOISES AND SHAKES REAL BAD SOMETIMES AS WELL I STILL OWE 20000 FOR THIS LEMON HYUNDAI SHOULD BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS AS ITS BEEN A SERIOUS PROBLEM FOR YEARS FROM WHAT I READ VERY DANGEROUS THIS HAPPENS ON CITY STREETS AND EXPRESSWAY

PAINT FLAKING WITHOUT ANY IMPACT.

I bought my car in 2019 with about 18k miles. My paint started peeling off of my hood and my roof at the beginning of 2021 at 40k miles. Hyundai pretty much told me too bad so sad since I was over 36,000 miles. I have paid to have it fixed multiple times and the paint is still peeling off. I am unable to wash my car without my paint flaking off. I even vinyl wrapped my roof myself to keep the paint from peeling more and rusting. There is discoloration where the paint has peeled off. I read online that if the vehicle rust the Hyundai will fix it however they refused to return my numerous calls and emails and voicemails to the supervisor at Jim click Hyundai in Tucson.

DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE ABOUT 75 MPH. OCCUPANTS WERE A DRIVER AND FRONT SEAT PASSENGER. BOTH WHERE BOTH BUCKLED IN. DRIVER REPORTED THAT THE INTERIOR LIGHT SUDDENLY CAME ON AND THEY STARTED TO SLOW DOWN AS THEY WERE NOT SURE WHY INTERIOR LIGHT WOULD COME ON WHEN PASSENGER LOOKED AND NOTICED THEIR PASSENGER DOOR WAS OPEN ABOUT 10 INCHES. THE PASSENGER GRABBED DOOR AND PULLED IT SHUT. THE INTERIOR LIGHT SHUT OFF. THEY REPORTED THAT PRIOR TO THIS THEY HEARD NO ALARM BELLS, HEARD NO ROAD OR AIR NOISE AND THE INTERIOR LIGHT WAS OFF. THE PASSENGER WAS SITTING FACING FORWARD WITH ARMS CROSSED NOT TOUCHING THE DOOR.

BACK DOORS WILL NOT OPEN. CALLED DEALERSHIP AND SAID THERE IS NO WARRANTY TO COVER HAVING THEM FIXED AND IT WILL BE OVER $1000 TO HAVE THE PROBLEM CORRECTED. DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD THE CAR SHUT OFF AND STARTED SMOKING. IT SAYS THE CAR IS ON AND RUNNING BUT IT IS NOT

THE DOOR LATCHES BREAK AND THE DOOR CAN NOT BE OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS IS THE THIRD DOOR LATCH THAT BROKE ON THIS VEHICLE IN THE PAST YEAR.

Both driver and passenger rear doors will not open from either the inside or outside. The only way to open is to bang just below the door handle repeatedly from the outside and sometimes the door will open. My fiance has only been able to get our children out once. This seems to be a common occurrence via blogs online. This is a terrible safety hazard for my children God forbid of a crash or fire and I couldn't get my children out. There should be no questions asked about recalling a faulty door that could save children's lives.

REAR DRIVER PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN INSIDE OUTSIDE. IT WORKED FINE, THEN I LOCKED IT AND WENT INTO WORK AND NOW IT WON'T OPEN AT ALL. CHILD LOCK.WAS IN USE AND I HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO GET IT TO OPEN. MILEAGE 78,500

THEIR DRIVER'S AND REAR DOOR LOCKS SUDDENLY START TO MALFUNCTION. THE REAR DOORS DON'T OPEN ANYMORE, THE REMOTE CONTROL IS WORKING APPARENTLY BUT I CAN'T OPEN THE DOOR EVEN MANUALLY FROM INSIDE. THE DRIVER LOCK DOOR NEEDS TO OPERATE MORE THAN 3 TIMES TO OPEN THE DOOR. I ALMOST NEVER USE THE REAR DOORS BECAUSE I AM SINGLE.*DT

For the people that have the doors that will not lock or unlock there has been a resolution for that and I am surprised that it isn’t on this site. It’s called “ DOOR LATCH REPLACEMENT(WARRANTY EXTENSION TXXL” number 21-BD-006H you can go to any Hyundai dealership and they will replace it free of charge. I had to do my own research since nobody would help me, including this website to find out the information. This is very disappointing that there was no recall or any information to help anybody regarding this situation. Especially since it’s a huge safety issue. Not to mention when it rains my car leaks which could be the cause. I do not know, but I will never buy another Hyundai ever again. The lack of support from anybody is null and void and you are on your own to find the information. So nobody has to do the work I uploaded the file for you.

COOLANT LEVEL IS ON FULL BUT THE HEAT DOES NOT WORK. THE THERMOSTAT IS ON H, WHICH MEANS THE CAR IS OVERHEATING. NO WARNING SYMBOLS ARE APPEARING ON THE DASHBOARD. I COULD BE DRIVING ON A CITY STREET THE CAR THERMOSTAT INDICATES THE CAR IS OVERHEATING.

THE DRIVER SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR DOOR NOT OPEN IT JUST STOPPED OPENING. I CAN NOT UNLOCK IT AT ALL. I WAN COMING OUT OF A STORE WITH MY KIDS AND THEY COULD NOT GET IN. THE DRIVER SIDE WAS ABOUT 4 MONTHS AGE IN SEPTEMBER. AND NOT IN DECEMBER THE PASSENGER SIDE.

HEADLIGHT BULB CONTINUES TO BURN OUT AND BULB WIRING MELTED FOR SOME REASON.

THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE IF THE DOOR HAS BEEN LOCKED. IF THE DOOR REMAINS UNLOCKED THE DOOR WILL OPEN FROM THE EXTERIOR FINE, BUT AFTER BEING LOCKED THE DOOR WILL ONLY OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAR. OTHERS HAVE POSTED ONLINE REGARDING THE SAME ISSUE.

BOTH DRIVERS AND REAR PASSENGER DOOR ACTUATORS HAVE GONE BAD. I SEE ONLINE THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE AND HAVE BEEN TOLD BY THE DEALERSHIP THAT IT IS AS WELL. THEY WILL NOT COVER THE COSTS OF REPAIR. REAR SHOCKS ARE ALSO WORN OUT AND HAVE BEEN TOLD BY DEALERSHIP THAT THIS IS ANOTHER COMMON ISSUE. ONLY 3 YEARS OLD WITH 39K MILES ON THE CAR.

WHILE DRIVING THE PASSENGER SEATBELT ALARM GOES OFF AND NOBODY IS IN THE SEAT. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY FOR NO REASON.CONTINUES TO DING UNTIL BUCKLED. AIR BAG ENGAGES. OTHER TIMES IT LETS ME KNOW THAT THE PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF WHEN EMPTY.

THE ISSUE HAS HAPPENED WHILE MY VEHICLE HAS BEEN STATIONARY AND IN MOTION, ON A CIY STREET, ON A HIGHWAY AND WHILE TURNING. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AS THE CAR SHAKES. IF I'M IN MOTION, THE LIGHT WILL STAY ON WHILE MY FOOT IS ON THE ACCELERATOR, TURN OFF WHEN I TAKE IT OFF THE ACCELERATOR AND COME BACK ON WHEN IT REACHES 1RPM'S. IF I'M STOPPED IT WILL JUMP FORWARD WHEN I PRESS THE GAS TO ACCELERATE (THE WHOLE TIME THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON). WHILE I'M STATIONARY, IT WILL STAY ON WHILE IT'S AT 1RPM'S OR BELOW. I HAVE GONE TO THE DEALER A COUPLE TIMES ALREADY TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. THE FIRST TIME THEY TOLD ME IT HAD TO DO WITH MY SPARK PLUGS SO I DID THE SERVICE TO GET THAT TAKEN CARE OF. THE SECOND TIME I WENT THEY TOLD ME THEY COULDN'T FIND ANY CODE TO INDICATE A PROBLEM. HERE WE ARE AGAIN AND I'M HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE ADDRESS AS I'VE CURRENTLY READ MANY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA OWNERS ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. I DON'T SEE THE BENEFIT OF BRINGING IT TO THE DEALER AGAIN IF I'M JUST GOING TO PAY FOR A SERVICE THAT ISN'T GOING TO RECTIFY THE PROBLEM AND THEY CONTINUE TO SAY THERE IS NO PROBLEM. I DO HAVE VIDEO TO SHOW THE PROBLEM.

What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? - The low beam headlights- 2017 Hyundai Elantra Value Edition How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? - The low beam headlights on the vehicle need to be replaced every 3-6 months. Most recently both headlights went out at the same time while driving in the dark. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? I have a service appointment requested but the vehicle has not yet been inspected. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? Not at this time Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? The warning light on my dashboard appeared as the headlights went out. no prior warning signs

THE VEHICLE LIT ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL THE SCC SYSTEM AND THE AEB SYSTEM THE CRUISE CONTROL DOES NOT WORK

THIS IS MY THIRD HYUNDAI AND FOR SOME REASON MY FRONT BREAKS WERE COMPLETELY SHOT AND I HAD TO SPEND $567.65 TO HAVE THEM REPLACED. AFTER SEARCHING OTHER CARS THIS SHOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED THIS EARLY ESPECIALLY WITH ALMOST ALL HIGHWAY DRIVING. I HAD BEEN THINKING ABOUT ANOTHER HYUNDAI, BUT WITH THIS PROBLEM I AM THINKING MAYBE A DIFFERENT BRAND MAY BE BETTER. THIS PROBLEM HAD NOT OCCURED BEFORE.BREAKS WERE REPAIRED AT DEALER OTHERWISE I MIGHT JUST LOSE MY WARRENTY. I CAN TELL YOU I AM NOT A HAPPY CUSTOMER OF HYUNDAI AT THIS POINT AT 36,000 MILES.

MY HEADLAMP LIGHTBULBS KEEP BURNING OUT. IN 2020 ALONE I HAVE SWITCHED THEM OUT 3 TIMES EACH! WAS TOLD THAT'S NOT NORMAL. TODAY I SWITCHED THE PASSENGER SIDE FOR THE 3RD TIME THIS YEAR. I'M SURE BEFORE 2021 I WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE DRIVER SIDE. IT'S GETTING EXPENSIVE! ALSO MY IGNITION COIL HAS GONE OUT 2CE IN 4 YEARS. (YES IT'S A 2017 BUT I PURCHASED 6/30/2016) MY CAR SHAKES AND MAKES WEIRD NOISE. SAME ONE #1 IS THE CULPRIT.

COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO I COULDN'T GET EITHER OF MY BACK DOORS TO OPEN UP, FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND GOT IT FIXED WITH EXTENDED WARRANTY. I MADE A COMPLAINT ON HERE THEN AND NOTICED OTHERS WERE HAVING THE TROUBLE. NOW, THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR WON'T OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. THIS IS [XXX]. 3 OF MY FOUR DOORS AND OTHERS HAVING THE ISSUE. IN FACT, THERE HAS BEEN 220 COMPLAINTS ON THIS WEBSITE ABOUT THIS CAR AND 33 OF THEM ARE BECAUSE THE DOORS WON'T OPEN. THERE HAVE BEEN 5 IN THE LAST MONTH....WHEN DOES IT BECOME HYUNDIA'S PROBLEM? TOTAL [XXX]. PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

CAR STALLED ON HIGHWAY ON 11-01-2020, PASSED BOTH INSPECTIONS ON 8-29-2020. PURCHASED CAR ON 9-1-2020 THROUGH DRIVETIME. I HAVE INSPECTION PAPER WORK FROM BUYER SHOWING EVERYTHING PASSED. CHANGED OIL ON 10/14/2020 THROUGH JIFFYLUBE WITH ONLY THE AIR FILTER BEING THE ONLY ISSUE FLAGGED.

THE DOORS WILL NOT OPEN. THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUT. MY DRIVER SIDE HAS STARTED TO DO THE SAME THING. THANKFULLY IT'S STILL OPENING BUT IT STILL GOES IN AND OUT.

The right back passenger door can not open from the inside or outside. The driver's door does not open from the inside. If there is an emergency my children who are new drivers could not get out of the vehicle fast enough. I researched this issue and it seems to be a concern of other Hyundai owners. Are the door latches and locks faulty?

I HAD A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON AND IT WAS RELATED TO THE HEATER CORE OR SOMETHING OF THAT NATURE, WHEN I STOPPED TO HAVE A PARTS STORE RUN THE CODE. THEY ASKED ME IF IT WAS OVERHEATING, I TOLD THEM NO. ABOUT A MONTH LATER THE WEATHER STARTED GETTING COLD AND WHEN I WENT TO DEFROST MY WINDOWS THERE WAS ONLY COLD AIR BLOWING OUT WHEN THE CAR WAS WARMED UP. AS I STARTED DRIVING I WOULD GET WARM AIR BUT AS SOON AS I STOPPED COLD AIR BLEW AGAIN. I TOOK IN INTO HYUNDAI THE FLUSHED THE COOLANT SYSTEM AND CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT I GOT IT BACK AND THE SAME THING WAS HAPPENING, TOOK IT BACK THEY THEN REPLACED THE WATER PUMP, GOT IT BACK SAME THING, TOOK IT BACK AGAIN THEY CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT AGIAN, STILL DIDN'T FIX IT, SAME THING WAS STILL HAPPENING, I AM NOT WAITING FOR THEM TO GET A SPECIAL PART TO APPARENTLY FLASH THE SYSTEM AGIAN, BUT REMOVING AIR BUBBLES. I HAVE LITTLE FAITH IT WILL FIX IT SINCE IT DIDN'T WORK THE FIRST TIME.

FRONT AND REAR DRIVERS SIDE DOOR HANDLES INOPERABLE. UNABLE TO OPEN FROM INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE. DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK, BUT NOT OPEN.

SLUGGISH, SHAKY AND NOT ACCELERATION ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON INTERMEDIATELY. CODE CAME UP P0301. CHANGED SPARK PLUGS, SENSOR, INCLINED THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER TWO TIMES. STILL THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. TOOK TO HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP THEY SAID ONE OF FOUR COIL PACKS WAS GOING OUT. THE PROBLEM WAS INTERMITTENT AND THE LIGHT FOR THE ENGINE WAS NOT ON. THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME THE ENGINE LIGHT HAD TO BE ON TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THEN I FOUND OUT THE AGENT COIL PACKS HAD AN OLDER STYLE AND THEY WANTED ME TO BUY THEIR NEWER STYLE THE PART NUMBER IS 27300 - 2E601. THEY WANTED $700 TO PUT IN THE NEWER STYLE COIL PACKS. THIS ISSUE SHOULD BE A RECALL SINCE MY CAR WAS ONLY 3 YEARS OLD WHEN THE PROBLEM STARTED.