There are 39 owner-reported electrical system complaints for the 2010 Jeep Libertyin NHTSA's database. These are unverified consumer reports and may not reflect confirmed defects.
The contact owns a 2010 Jeep Liberty. The contact stated while her husband was driving approximately 60 MPH, the driver lowered the driver's side window when a smoke odor was present. The driver saw a flame burst from the door-mounted electrical panel with the door lock and window controls. The contact blew the flames out and then returned to the residence. The contact mentioned that her husband's clothes had a strong smoke odor due to the failure. No warning light was illuminated. A dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. Additionally, the contact stated that before the electrical fire, during brake work on the vehicle, a mechanic had advised that a wire harness on the tow hitch had melted and had warned the contact not to use the tow hitch. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 166,000.
I HAVE A 2010 JEEP LIBERTY SPORT AND IT'S HEADLIGHTS CONTINUE TO GO OFF ON ME WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY AND IT'S ONLY NOTICEABLE AT NIGHT IN WHICH IS NOT SAFE. I'VE CHANGED BOTH LIGHT BULBS IN WHICH WORKED AND THEN WENT OUT WITHIN 20 MINS AGAI AT NIGHT ON THE HIGHWAY. THEN I CHANGED THE 30AMP/RELAY. THEN I CHANGED THE DIMMER SWITCH. ALL OF THIS DID NOT WORK. THEN THE DEALER CHANGED THE WINDSHIELD THAT IS LOCATED ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE AND IT WORKED FOR ABOUT A WEEK WITH THE PASSENGER SIDE LIGHT GOING OUT BUT WORKING WHEN I SHIMMY THE CORD OF CONDUCTOR. BUT LIKE IT DID PREVIOUSLY IT'S NOW NOT JUST THE PASSENGER LIGHT AS BOTH LIGHTS ARE AGAIN NOT WORKING. AND THEY ARE STARTING TO FLICKER THEN JUST GOES OUT ALTOGETHER TO WHERE NOW THE SHIMMY IS NO LONGER EFFECTIVE. NOW I'VE DONE ALL I CAN DO ON THE ELECTRICAL REALM BUT IT SEEMS AS THOUGH EVERYTHING I'VE ATTEMPTED IS JUST TEMPORARY OR DOES NOT WORK AT ALL. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM. PLEASE HELP!
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 JEEP LIBERTY. WHILE REVERSING INTO THE DRIVEWAY, ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, THE VEHICLE SHUT OFF, AND WAS UNABLE TO RESTART. THE CONTACT DETERMINED THAT THE FAILURE WAS DUE TO A DEFECTIVE ALTERNATOR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THERE WERE NO RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 92,000.
THIS CAR HAS ELETRICAL ISSUES, WHILE DRIVING, THE HORN STARTED GOING OFF ON HIS OWN. I NEVER USE MY HORN, AND CAN COUNT ON 1 HAND HOW MANY TIMES I USED IT. THE REPAIR COST ME OVER $800. I ALSO HAD TO REPLACE THE MOTOR FOR THE REAR DOOR, I NEVER USE THE HATCH, AND I HAD TO REPLACE. MY CAR IS NOW CURRENTLY BEING REPAIR FOR ANOTHER ELECTRICAL ISSUE. THE PASSAGER DOOR IS CLOSED, HOWEVER THE DOOR AJAR LIGHT IS ON CAUSING MY INTERIOR LIGHT NOT TO STAY ON. THE PASSENGER DOOR IS COMPLETELY CLOSED- DUE TO THIS ELECTRICAL ISSUE MY LIGHTS WILL NOT SHUT OFF AND WILL KILL THE BATTERY. I HAVE ALSO EXPERIENCE BOTH WINDOWS DECIDED TO OPEN AND CLOSE WHILE DRIVING ON THEIR OWN. THIS CAR IS AN ELECTRICAL DISASTER. I DO NOT DRIVE LONG DISTANCE, JUST LOCAL. ITS A 2010 AND I HAVE 75, 000 MILES ON IT.
THE SKY SLIDER ROOF WILL NOT CLOSE, LEAVING THE TOP OPEN AND CONTRIBUTING TO WATER DAMAGE AND ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS.
I LEASE MY VEHICLE FROM JD BYRIDER WE FIRST NOTICED THE WINDOWS AFTER MY PURCHASE.I WENT THERE 3 TIMES HE SAID HE WOULD HAVE TO TAKE THE DOOR APART.WHILE AT THE DRIVE INNS I REALIZED THERE WAS NO HEAT I WAS FREEZING THEY ATTEMPTED TO FIX IT WORKED LIKE 2 DAYS THEN STOPPED.THE 4 WHEEL DRIVE STICKS I'M NOT SURE IF ITS ELECTRICAL CUZ THE WINDOWS DONT WORK N WHEN IT RAINS THE TAILGATE LIGHT COMES ON WITH THE INSIDE LIGHTS?SINCE I BOUGHT IT THE WHEELS MAKE A REALLY LOUD NOISE YOU CANNOT HAVE WINDOWS DOWN ITS BEHIND MY SEAT.I HAVE READ ABOUT PPLS CARS CATCHING ON FIRE THEY HAD NO WAY TO ESCAPE DUE TO WINDOWS IN THESE JEEPS I HAVE BEEN IN A BURNING VAN ON ROUTE 20 IN GIRARD COMMUNITY AUTO DID SOMETHING BAD TO MY VAN AND THIS IS THE FIRST TIME ME DRIVING IN YEARS.MY 30 DAYS ARE UP AND I CANNOT PAY TO FIX THESE PROBLEMS I PAY $380 A MONTH FOR CAR PAYMENT & $700 RENT I HAVE 4 CHILDREN AND A GRANDSON WE NEED HEAT A SAFE VEHICLE TO DRIVE
WHILE DRIVING AFTER ABOUT 5 - 10 MINUTES, THE BATTERY LIGHT ON THE DASH LIT UP AND MADE A DINGING NOISE. I PARKED CAME BACK OUT TO LEAVE 3 HOURS LATER, AND THE CAR WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. THERE WAS NO CLICKING, NO NOISED WHEN TURNING THE KEY TO START THE CAR. WE TRIED JUMPING THE CAR WITH 2 DIFFERENT JUMP BOXES AND 1 SET OF CABLES. NONE OF THOSE WORKED. I THEN HAD THE CAR TOWED TO DEALERSHIP SERVICE CENTER. THEY THOUGHT IT WAS THE ALTERNATOR, CHANGED IT, AND I PICKED THE CAR UP FROM THE SERVICE CENTER, AGAIN 5 MINUTES INTO DRIVING THE LIGHT CAME ON AND MY CAR DIED WHILE DRIVING MAYBE 10 MINUTES LATER ON THE THE THRUWAY. AGAIN, NOT ABLE TO JUMP THE BATTERY SO IT WAS TOWED BACK TO THE SERVICE CENTER. THEY THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE A FAULTY ALTERNATOR, AND CHANGED IT OUT. THE BATTERY LIGHT STILL CAME ON, AND DISCOVERED IT WAS THE POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE (TIPM) THAT WAS FAILING, AND BURNING THROUGH THE ALTERNATORS.
DAUGHTER PULLED OUT OF DRIVEWAY TURNED LEFT ONTO STREET AND IMMEDIATELY HEARD A LOUD NOISE AND OBSERVED THE ENTIRE DASHBOARD INSTRUMENTATION PANEL LIGHT UP. WIPERS CAME ON, DOORS LOCKED, ENGINE CUT OFF, ALARM WENT OFF, WIPER FLUID STARTED SPRAYING AND SMOKE STARTED POURING FROM UNDER THE HOOD. FORTUNATELY SHE WAS ABLE TO UNLOCK THE DOORS AND GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE. ELECTRICAL WIRING WAS STILL SMOKING 45 MINUTES AFTER THE POWER FINALLY DRAINED FROM THE BATTERY. TOW TRUCK REFUSED TO MOVE THE VEHICLE UNTIL A MECHANIC CAME TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. LOCAL SHOP SAID ALL THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUITRY WAS BURNED UP OR COMPROMISED, INCLUDING THE WIRING HARNESSES, GROUND WIRES, FUSED BOX, TIPM, ETC. TOOK VEHICLE TO DEALERSHIP WHERE IT WAS PRONOUNCED UNFIXABLE. INSURANCE COMPANY WILL NOT COVER SINCE FIRE DAMAGE WAS CONFINED TO ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS AND JEEP CHRYSLER SENT AN INVESTIGATOR TO INSPECT THE DAMAGE AND COMPENSATION WAS DENIED.
WHILE MY SON WAS DRIVING THE CAR JUST SHUT OFF. MID DRIVE, WHICH WAS VERY UNSAFE. IT STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD ROUNDING A CURVE. ATTEMPTED TO JUMP THE CAR WITH NO SUCCESS. HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A LOCAL GARAGE. THEY STATE IT AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE THAT IT WILL BE PRETTY COSTLY. EXPLAINED IT TO ME AS THE MOTHERBOARD BASICALLY FOR THE CAR. AFTER READING UP SEEMS THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE. I WOULD THINK JEEP WOULD FIX THIS COMMON AND COSTLY ISSUE. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER JEEP.
1. SEAT BELT WILL NOT LATCH IN REAR DRIVER SEAT TO PROPERLY RESTRAIN CHILD. CHRYSLER WILL NOT COVER SO CHILD IS BEING LATCH WITH A REAR DRIVER SIDE SHOULDER BELT CONNECTED TO THE MIDDLE SEAT LATCH. 2. WHEEL SPEED SENSOR HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE, CAUSES ABS, ESC AND 4WD TO STOP WORKING. THIS HAPPENS TYPICALLY WHILE DRIVING EITHER RESIDENTIAL OR HIGHWAY ROADS, RANDOM TIMES, TEMPERATURES AND SPEEDS. 3. DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR HAS STOPPED WORKING FOR THE FORTH TIME WHICH PREVENTS CHILD SAFETY LOCK FROM WORKING. THE DOOR CANNOT LOCK/UNLOCK OTHER THAN MANUALLY COMPRESSING THE LOCK FROM THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR THEREFORE I HAVE TO CLIMB IN THE BACK SEAT TO UNLOCK THE DOOR OR RISK MY CHILD OPENING THE DOOR WHILE DRIVING. THE OTHER THREE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS HAVE BEEN REPLACED, NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY. 4. THE CLOCK LOSES A MINUTE TO TWO MINUTES A WEEK. 5. WHEN THE CAR IS IN OFF POSITION AND KEYS REMOVED FROM IGNITION, THE VEHICLE HAS ELECTRICAL SURGES THROUGH THE CONSOLE AFTER SITTING FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. THE BATTERY HAS NOT BEEN RUN DOWN, I'M NOT SURE WHERE THE POWER IS COMING FROM. 6. THE VEHICLE STARTED TO LOSE POWER ON HIGHWAY AND STOPPED SHIFTING FROM PARK TO DRIVE, AT 80,000 TRANSMISSION WORK HAD TO BE PERFORMED TO PROPERLY RUN WITHOUT RISK.
MY 2010 JEEP LIBERTY SPORT WENT ON FIRE. I WAS STOPPING AT A STOP SIGN AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THE CAR STARTED TO COMPLETELY MALFUNCTION. THE CARE SHUT OFF AT THE STOP SIGN, THE HORN WENT OFF FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES, THE WINDSHEILD WIPPERS WENT OFF, ALL OF THE DOORS LOCKED AND I SAW SMOKE FROM THE HOOD. I DIDNT KNOW WHAT TO DO AND MAYBE AFTER ABOUT 3 MINUTES OF TRYING TO GET DOORS TO UNLOCK THEY FINALLY DID I GOT OUT AND OPENED THE HOOD AND THE WHOLE HOOD WAS UP IN FLAMES. NOW ITS A TOTAL LOSS THEY ARE ONLY PAYING OFF MY LOAN AND I AM STUCK WITH TRYING TO COME UP WITH MY OWN MONEY TO BUY A NEW CAR NOW I THINK I SHOULD BE ENTILTED TO A LAWSUIT I COULD OF DIED IF THOSE DOORS DID NOT END UP UNLOCKING. EVERY JEEP SHOULD BE RECALLED.
TIPM FAILURE. THE CAR HAS SHUT DOWN MULTIPLE TIMES WHILE DRIVING. IT HAS HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING IN CITY STREETS AND ON HIGHWAYS. THE 2010 JEEP LIBERTY LOST ALL POWER HAD TO STEER TO THE SIDE TO AVOID CAUSING ANY ACCIDENTS. PRETTY SCARY EXPERIENCE ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU ARE PREGNANT AND CARES ARE ZOOMING BY 80 MILES PER HOUR.
"GATE" LIGHT COMES ON DASH AND LIGHTS INSIDE VEHICLE STAY ON, DRAINING BATTERY AND IF YOU LOCK YOUR VEHICLE THE ALARM WILL GO OFF. IT IS ALL CAUSED BY WATER GETTING INTO THE BACK WINDOW WHICH HAS BAD SEALS AND CAUSES SWITCH TO GO BAD. REPLACED YEAR AGO AND NOW HAVE TO REPLACE AGAIN. THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE MANY JEEP LIBERTY OWNERS COMPLAIN. FIX THE PROBLEM OR I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER JEEP.
MY PANIC ALARM WENT OFF BY ITSELF WHEN I WAS IN THE STORE. I SHUT IT OFF BUT NOW I HAVE A MESSAGE READING GATE AJAR AND ALL MY INTERIOR LIGHTS ARE ON. IT DRAINED MY BATTERY AND IT WOULD NOT TAKE A CHARGE. I NEEDED TO GET A NEW BATTERY. I AM STILL GETTING THE GATE AJAR READING AND LIGHTS STAY ON. I DISCONNECT MY BATTERY WHEN I GO TO WORK. I HAVE BEEN READING ONLINE AND APPARENTLY THIS IS AN ONGOING PROBLEM WITH THE JEEP LIBERTY AND NOT JUST THE 2010.
THE TIPM ON MY 6 YEAR OLD JEEP LIBERTY STOPPED FUNCTIONING CAUSING THE LIGHTS ON MY VEHICLE TO NO LONGER WORK. THIS OCCURRED AFTER STARTING MY CAR ONE NIGHT WHEN LEAVING SOMEWHERE I HAD ARRIVED DURING THE DAYTIME.
THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED MODULDE (TIPM) IS DEFECTIVE. THE CAR IS 5 YEARS OLD, BUT THIS PLACES THE USER AT A HUGE SAFETY RISK. THE LIGHTS WENT OFF WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT IN A VERY DARK HIGH WAY. LUCKILY THE HAZZARD LIGHTS WORKED.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 JEEP LIBERTY. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH AND MAKING A TURN, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS PULLED OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, TURNED OFF, AND RESTARTED. THE CONTACT DROVE THE VEHICLE HOME. THE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED AND RECURRED TWO TIMES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 54,000.
TIPMS IS BAD. WHILE GOING DOWN HIGHWAY THE HORN STARTED BLOWING NON STOP THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS AND FLUID BEGAN TO GO EXTREMELY FAST, THE CAR STALLED OUT WHEN I TRIED TO TURN IT OFF BUT HORN WINDSHIELD ETC CONTINUE TO GO AFTER CAR WAS OFF AND KEYS OUT. THE LOCKS AND SECURITY NO LONGER WORK, THE AC/HEAT NO LONGER WORKS.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 JEEP LIBERTY. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS (AVS, ESP, VAS, SERVICE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE) REMAINED ILLUMINATED. ALL OF THE WHEEL SENSORS WERE REPLACED, THE SYSTEM WAS CLEANED, AND THE BRAKE PADS WERE REPLACED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE CONTINUED. THE DEALER WAS NOTIFIED, BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 28,200.
STARTED VEHICLE AND DROVE ABOUT 1/4 OF A MILE. THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN AND I HAD TO MANUALLY STEER IT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. CAR WOULD NOT START AND POWER TO EVERYTHING WAS LOST. COULD NOT JUMP START EVEN THOUGH BATTERY WAS FULLY CHARGED. TURNED OUT TO BE FAULTY TIPM. VEHICLE ONLY HAS 36,000 MILES ON IT!
Showing 1–20 of 39 complaints
Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA. A high complaint count may reflect vehicle popularity, not defect severity. Data sourced from NHTSA public records.
Data synced from NHTSA on Apr 25, 2026