2017 Kia Forte Complaint Log

Both low beams stopped working. High beams and all other lights work I replaced the bulbs and the low beams don't work at all and there's no relay or fuse and I can't find the problem

The contact owns a 2017 Kia Forte. The contact received a recall notification for NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V622000 (Latches/Locks/Linkages). The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was notified of the issue. The part was not available for repair. The contact had not experienced a failure. Invalid VIN.

The engine stalls , when I try to give it gas, it will stall sometimes to the point of shutting off. It will also cut it off if I am sitting and the engine is running, it will shut off and it takes several minutes for me to be able to get it back running. It seems like it is something with fuel injectors. I know there was a recall with this very same issue on models of 2017 that was made in a different month, but I have been told numerous times mine isn’t a recall when it seems to have same issue. This hasn’t been a one time occurrence, it occurs almost every time I drive my vehicle.

My car is constantly stalling and I have nearly gotten into several accidents because it would stall at red lights, or while driving, turning it stalls. In order to keep it from stalling have to keep putting it into neutral. I can't get a proper scan on it because the engine light isn't on. This has been happening for about 2 months and it is getting worse. I have under 50,000 miles on it.

The contact owns a 2017 Kia Forte. The contact stated while reversing out of a parking spot with the vehicle in reverse, the brake pedal was depressed but the vehicle inadvertently drove forward speedily. The brake pedal was depressed but the vehicle failed to respond and crashed into a tree. The air bags failed to deploy. There were no warning lights illuminated. A police report was filed. The contact sustained neck, shoulder, and back injuries and sought medical assistance. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.

Cylinder 2 is misfiring and causing the engine to get out of rhythm. The car begins shaking and the engine struggles to keep running. The car feels like it will stop running at any given point of when it happens. The check engine light only appears when at a complete stop or when my foot is on the gas. When I take my foot off the gas and the car cruises, the check engine light goes away, making it extremely difficult to catch/code.

I’ve been having problems with my 2017 forte5 Lx for the last few months. The brake calipers tend to lock up from time to time causing my pads to smoke like crazy. I’ve had my brakes serviced 6 times within the last year. Nothing seemed to help and I’ve barely used the vehicle out of concern for safety. Recently, I spoke with a tech at my local dealership. He informed me that my forte has rubber bushings on one of the caliper pins that swells and gets stuck. His solution was to replace the defective pin with another pin that doesn’t include the bushing. Since I followed his advice, my brakes haven’t locked up at all. The original intent for the bushing was to reduce caliper noise but it does not help, instead hindering performance. The reason for my complaint is that this can cause the brakes to overheat and start a fire, while decreasing the ability to brake.

My head lights keep shutting off and stop working, they have replace it twice already and again today Oct 7th 2021ir stopped working again, now I just replaced the bulbs on Sept 15th 2021 there shouldn't be any reason to change it out this soon. I keep calling the dealership about it and nothing back from them. Today I ended up not seeing and hit into a curb and smashed up the side by my tire on the passenger side, I'm very upset with kia they are putting my family in danger by not fixing it correctly.

Leaving work last week and noticed my trunk was open. Thought maybe I had accidentally pressed the release button and went to close but trunk latch wouldn not latch down and close. Had to fold the back seats down and crawl into the trunk while a coworker held the trunk shit and use a flathead screwdriver to manually lock the latch. After doing so now the trunk will not open.

Trunk latch on my vehicle gets stuck can only open after jumping down on hood while pulling lever at the same time intermittently happens. Lately been happening more often than not.

The contact owns a 2017 Kia Forte. The contact stated while driving at 30 MPH, when the contact heard a loud popping noise coming from the vehicle, the contact noticed that when depressing the accelerator pedal the vehicle would not accelerate. The contact saw the check engine light warning light illuminated on the vehicle. The contact had to pull the vehicle over to the side of the road and attempted to restart the vehicle which it did and contact smelled something burning from the interior of the vehicle and noticed smoke coming from the front hood of the vehicle. The contact was able to continue to drive to their work. The contact was able to restart the vehicle after work and continue drive to their destination, however, the failure persisted, The contact check the vehicle later that day and noticed the there was no oil in the engine and a major oil leak underneath vehicle undercarriage. The contact had the vehicle towed to the local dealer to have inspected the vehicle and diagnosed the failure engine sensor was damaged and the fuel pump was damage on the vehicle as well failure where the trunk latch will not open on the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage approximately 75,000.

The contact owns a 2017 Kia Forte. The contact stated while attempting to open the rear trunk door lid, it was discovered that the trunk door lid could not be opened while using the key fob, the trunk release, or the emergency trunk release. Later while driving approximately 70 MPH, the trunk lid suddenly opened and could no longer be closed or secured. A cell phone cord was used to secure the trunk door lid. The cause of the failure was not yet determined. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The contact was informed that the VIN was not included in the NHTSA campaign number 21V622000 (Latches/Locks/Linkages). The contact indicated that the vehicle had experienced the same failure listed in the recall. The failure mileage was 44,300.

The contact owns a 2017 Kia Forte. The contact stated while driving 20 MPH, the check engine and oil warning lights illuminated and then the vehicle stalled. The contact was able to pull over and park the vehicle in a parking lot where the vehicle remained. The vehicle was not taken to an independent mechanic or dealer. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but informed the contact that the VIN was not associated with any recalls. The failure mileage was approximately 85,000.

THE ENGINE FAILED DURING EVENING RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC, THE CAR STALLED IN TRAFFIC AND WOULD NOT CUT BACK ON. VEHICLE HAD TO BE PUSHED OUT OF THE ROAD AND TOWED HOME. PREVIOUSLY THE ENGINE LIGHT DID APPEAR ON IN THE CAR BUT A RECENT OIL CHANGE WAS DONE ON THE CAR WHICH CAUSED THE LIGHT TO GO AWAY. VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN FROM THE SHOP AFTER OIL CHANGE WAS DONE AND CAR STALLED ONCE ON THE WAY HOME. I DID A GOOGLE SEARCH FOR RECALLS AND FOUND OUT THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE CAR (RECALL NO. 21V260000)CAR WAS TAKEN TO KIA DEALERSHIP A DAY OR 2 LATER AND A DIAGNOSTICS WAS DONE ON THE VEHICLE BY THE KIA DEALERSHIP. THE KIA DEALERSHIP INFORMED ME THAT THERE WAS METAL SHAVINGS IN THE ENGINE OF THE CAR. THEY REFUSED TO FIX THE CAR DESPITE ME SHOWING THEM THE RECALL NUMBER THE KIA DEALERSHIP SAID THEY CAN FIX IT FOR $7600 OR I CAN GET ANOTHER CAR AND PUT DOWN BETWEEN $5000-6000. THEY ALSO SAID BEING THAT MY CAR WASN'T APART OF THE RECALL THERE WAS NOTHING THEY CAN DO EVEN THOUGH MY CAR WAS SHOWING SIGNS THAT WAS STATED IN THE RECALL. THE CAR IS CURRENTLY PARKED IN MY BACKYARD AND CURRENTLY NOT DRIVEABLE.

While driving normal 35 mph speed engine started knocking loudly, pulled into parking lot shut it off. Called dad, an ASE Master Mechanic, told him what happened. He told me to start it so he could hear it, bang, bang BOOM! stench, smoke car died. He told me it sounded like the rod bearing . Got towed home. Towed to Kia dealer near home, they diagnosed blown rod bearing engine toast. This is probably the SAME engine the lawsuits were about with the SAME PROBLEM. I am thrilled that no-one was hurt, there had been fires, explosions etc. If it happened on the freeway it could have been BAD!

My vehicle is stalling out while I am driving. Also I have to at times try too start it twice wont turnover on first try.Has been reported to dealer they dont seem to know what the problem is. I called 2 months ahead of April 2021 and Kia told me they were so booked up they couldn't see me till almost 2 months later. Car is still doin the same.

Trunk latch apparently broke and trunk popped opened on it's own while driving. We have not been able to tie it down due to broken latch. Obscures view and cannot be driven safely at this time. Has not been seen or confirmed by a repair shop yet

My car has gone in twice to the dealer for “engine missfire” both times coils were replaced under warranty, now the car just hit 60212 milles and engine missfire code again, this time not covered under warranty. Car has a bad shake at start up and moderate speeds. Third time in the past year.

I got this car in January, it's only October and my speed doesn't accelerate. When I step on the gas pedal there is a huge kick and my RPM goes from under one to 4 or 5 to get to 20mph. I noticed that I could change the drive to D1 and D2 but when driving and going over 30mph my car is in D6. I have yet to find a solution. No warning lights have come on yet but I don't want it to get to that point before having the car for a year.

My vehicle is at 60,116 miles. While driving down the interstate, it started making a slight rattling noise. Then not even 5 minutes later it made this awful sound, smoke was going everywhere and it was pouring oil out. The traction control light, engine light, and oil light all came on. It had thrown a rod through the engine. Prior to this, there were no issues at all. No engine light. No rattling. Nothing. It just happened all at once within 5 minutes.

Coils are repeatedly breaking despite being replaced. Seems to be a common issue with this make/model but hasnt been recalled.

The contact owns a 2017 KIA Forte. The contact stated while driving 55 mph, the vehicle started losing motive power with an abnormal clicking sound coming from the engine. The vehicle eventually stalled with the check engine warning light illuminated. The contact was able to restart the vehicle and coast to the side of the highway as the engine ceased. Upon inspection of the vehicle, the contact saw oil leaking in the engine compartment. The contact left the vehicle on the highway and walked home. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but offered no assistance. Two weeks later, the vehicle was initially towed to her grandfather's home where he discovered debris in the oil pump which he linked to the vehicle failure. The vehicle was then towed to a dealer where they informed her that her vehicle was not included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V260000 (Engine and Engine Cooling). The vehicle remained in the possession of the dealer. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 105,000.

The car keeps giving a misfire code. Kia says the only recall is for the coil boots. They replaced the coil boots and the car is still giving the misfire code. I see lots of people having to replace the coils to fix the problem. I asked kia about this and they say there is no problem with my coils. At this point my car isnt usable and kia says theres nothing they can do. The car loses power and stalls while driving along. It also does the same thing while at an idle.

The contact owns a 2017 Kia Forte. The contact stated while driving at 70 mph, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated the check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer where it was diagnosed with the engine needing to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact was relating the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 21V260000 (Engine and engine cooling). The manufacturer had been informed of the failure and informed the contact that the issue falls on the driver due to improper maintenance. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000.

Break lights, running lights and headlights go out at least every three months at different times. Apparently it’s a common problem with these cars when I go to online forums and I have recently been contacted by a class action attorney that wants to investigate. I have had to replace rear bulb sockets due to corrosion and the bulbs still burn out. We purchased the 2017 car used around 2021 and have probably replaced the headlights alone 6 times and an un countable amount on the running and break lights.

THE HEADLIGHTS KEEP BURNING OUT. I'VE HAD THE CAR FOR A LITTLE OVER A YEAR NOW AND HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE HEADLIGHTS 3 TIMES. I WAS DRIVING ONE NIGHT A COUPLE MONTHS AGO AND BOTH LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT. THAT WAS VERY DANGEROUS. THAT WAS MY SECOND SET OF HEADLIGHTS NOW I'M ON MY 3RD SET AND THE DRIVERS SIDE WENT OUT. I PAID EXTRA FOR THE BEST SET OF HEADLIGHTS AUTOZONE HAD TO OFFER AT THE TIME AS I WAS IN DESPERATE NEED SO I COULD DRIVE HOME AND IT STILL LASTED THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIME, PURCHASED ON 1/22/2021. ALSO, THEY'RE ALWAYS DIM. FOR THE MOST EXPENSIVE SET OF LIGHTS I EXPECTED MORE. I DID A LITTLE RESEARCH AND SEEN THAT THIS IS VERY COMMON FOR THIS VEHICLE. WHY IS THIS ALLOWED TO CONTINUE? SOMEONE IS GOING TO GET HURT. PLEASE RESEARCH THIS AND SEE WHAT COULD BE DONE. HEADLIGHTS ARE VERY EXPENSIVE. I HAVE TWO OTHER VEHICLES. A 2017 DODGE JOURNEY THAT HAS NEVER NEEDED A HEADLIGHT CHANGE AND A 2007 FORD ESCAPE THAT HAS ONLY NEEDED A FEW HEADLIGHTS IN ITS ENTIRE EXISTENCE. THIS IS NOT RIGHT. THE DATE LISTED BELOW IS THE MOST RECENT INCIDENT.

2017 KIA FORTE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TURNED ON AND WAS HEADING TO MECHANIC. WHILE DRIVING THE CAR COMPLETELY DIED WHILE DRIVING AND ALL WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON. OIL PAN FLASHED ON SO OIL CHANGE WAS DONE ON SPOT. THE CAR DROVE FINE THEN DAYS LATER SAME ISSUE OCCURRED. GOT CAR TOWED TO A MECHANIC FOR THE MECHANIC TO TELL ME THERE WERE FOREIGN PARTICLES STUCK IN BOTH THE OIL PUMP AND OIL PAN THAT LED TO ENGINE DAMAGE NOW NEEDING A NEW ENGINE. TAKE MY CAR TO KIA DEALERSHIP FOR THE RECALL THAT I SEEN ONLINE FOR POSSIBLE ENGINE FAILURE DUE TO FAULTY OIL PUMP AND KIA IS NOT HONORING THE RECALL SINCE IT HAS A DATE POSTED FOR LATER THIS YEAR IN JUNE.

AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY IN VEHICLE CRASH AT ABOVE 30 MPH

I WAS DRIVING DOWN 84TH ST AND CAME TO THE LIGHT ON 84TH AND PACIFIC AVE AND THE ENGINE WANTED TO DIE OUT AND PUT MY FOOT ON THE GAS PEDAL TO KEEP IT RUNNING AND THEN TURNED RIGHT ONTO PACIFIC AVE AND WENT TO 80TH AND PACIFIC AVE AND THE CAR DIED OUT TOWED IT TO THE HOUSE AND CHECKED THE OIL AND EVERYTHING AND THERE WAS NO OIL THE OIL INDICATOR LIGHT DID NOT TURN ON AT ANY POINT OF TIME SO I ADDED OIL AND STARTED THE ENGINE BACK UP AND NOW IT HAS A ENGINE KNOCK LIKE THE ROD BEARING WENT OUT I AM GOING TO CONTACT THE KIA DEALER IN THE MORNING AND SEE WHAT'S THE PROBLEM AND EVERYTHING AND EVERYTHING HAPPENED ON CITY STREETS

ENGINE COILS KEEP GOING BAD. FIRST ENGINE COIL WENT BAD AT 60,000 MILES AND NOW MY SECOND ENGINE COIL HAS GONE UP AT 67,000 MILES.

TRUNK OF CAR WILL NOT CLOSE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS BEFORE ONE DAY IT CLOSES THE NEXT DAY IT WON'T

I purchased this vehicle second hand at 43k miles. The issue began around 50k miles and would rough idle when coming to a stop and a check engine light appeared. At 55k miles it was taken to a Kia dealership where they were unable to diagnose the issue. They ran a diagnostic and found nothing. Shorty after, the issue persisted. I took it back to the Kia dealership where they were able to run another diagnostic on the check engine light, and they told me it was the spark plugs. I did not believe this as my father has been a technician for over 40 years and said that the issue seems to be an ignition coil issue. I never took the vehicle back to any Kia or IRF since. I’ve replaced 1 coil and the issue smoothed out. Some time after, the issue began to worsen and continue to intermittently over the course of months, rough idle, shoot up in rpms, stall while accelerating, and once or twice it has shut off completely while at a stop light. Unfortunately, I have so far replaced 2 coils and the issue is moderate but not to the point of shutting off. The vehicle is eligible for inspection upon request. I do NOT feel safe driving this vehicle, and it’s unfortunate for me as it is my first vehicle.

ON 3/9/2021 I WAS INVOLVED IN A HIT AND RUN ACCIDENT AND MY KIA WAS HIT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. IT WAS HIT SO HARD THAT THE IT LEFT A HOLE IN THE DOOR AND MY TODDLER WAS SITTING IN HIS CAR SEAT. WHEN THE FORE DEPT ARRIVED THEY NOTICED THAT THE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY AND DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY. I WAS ADVISED THAT MY AIR BAGS SHOULD'VE DEPLOYED. I WAS TRAVELING NORTH ON A CITY STREET AT ABOUT 35 MILES AND HOUR WHEN I WAS HIT.*DT*DT*JB*JB

MY CAR KEEPS SHUTTING DOWN...STOPS RUNNING, HAVE TO START IT AGAIN TO KEEP GOING

THE TRUNK OF MY VEHICLE JUST OPENS ON ITS OWN WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND THEN WHEN I PULL OVER TO CLOSE IT WON'T. THE LATCH IS NOT ENGAGING, ONCE I GET THE LATCH TO CATCH THEN I CAN'T GET MY TRUNK TO RE-OPEN. THIS HAS HAPPENED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE MOST RECENT OCCURRENCE HAPPENED ON SATURDAY, JANUARY 30, 2021.

I WAS STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE. MY VEHICLE LUNGED FORWARD WITH MY FOOT STILL ON THE BRAKE SO I PULLED THE EMERGENCY BRAKE UP AND MY VEHICLE STOPPED, THANKFULLY I DID NOTHING HIT ANYONE OR ANYTHING. WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN I DROVE FORWARD AND MY ENGINE LIGHT TURNED ON; AFTER NO MORE THAN 30 SECONDS, THE LIGHT TURNED OFF. ALL HAS BEEN FINE SINCE, HOWEVER I LOOKED UP THIS PROBLEM AND APPARENTLY KIA HAS A SERIOUS PROBLEM WITH CARS LUNGING FORWARD AND CAUSING MAJOR ACCIDENTS. I HONESTLY AM TERRIFIED FOR THIS TO HAPPEN TO ME.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 KIA FORTE. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT BECAME INOPERABLE WITHOUT WARNING. AFTER OPENING THE HOOD, THE HEADLIGHT WORKED AS DESIGNED. ADDITIONALLY, WHILE USING THE LEFT TURN SIGNAL, THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEAD LIGHT BECAME INOPERABLE. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO NHTSA. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 59,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS 2017 KIA FORTE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT WATER WAS ENTERING THE VEHICLE FROM THE TRUNK AND THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT AND REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO KARP BUICK (400 SUNRISE HWY, ROCKVILLE CENTRE, NY 11570) WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED TWICE HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE 39,400.

THE AUTOMATIC TRUNK LATCH WILL NO LONGER WORKS , SO THE TRUNK OF MY CAR IS OPENED. THE BUTTON ON THE KEY PAD WORKS FINE BUT THE LATCH WILL NOT LOCK . MY CAR WAS SITTING IN THE PARKING LOT OF MY APARTMENT COMPLEX.

TRUNK LID OPENS WHILE DRIVING

IN MOTION ON HIGHWAY GOING 70. 2017 KIA STARTED MAKING TICKING NOISE NO OIL LIGHT ON OR ANY WARNINGS AFTER FEW MILES ROD WENT THROUGH SIDE OF BLOCK THEN INTO STARTER DAMAGING IT LEAVING CAR DISABLED. REMOVED ENGINE FROM CAR TO REPLACE OPENED THE ENGINE UP AND FOUND TO BE A RESULT OF A RECALL ISSUE CAR HAS 104000 ON IT. FOUND SUMP FILTER CLOGGED WITH BEARING MATERIAL RESTRICTTING OIL FLOW. THE DEALER OR KIA WONT DO ANYTHING REFUSING TO FIX IT. I NOW HAVE A NEW ENGINE ORDERED AND GETTING IT WENSDAY, THE CAR IS NOT EVEN PAID OFF AND AS A RESULT I CAN NOT MAKE IT TO WORK TO MAKE A LIVING TILL I GET THE ENGINE INSTALLED. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR 4 MONTHS.

FRONT WINDSHIELD SMEARS EVERYTIME I USE WINDSHIELD WIPER. I NOTICED THIS WHEN I FIRST GOT THE CAR BUT THOUGHT NOTHING OF IT, AND IT WOULD GO AWAY EVENTUALLY. NOW, I TRY TO AVOID DRIVING WHEN IT RAINS BECAUSE IT SEEMS THE WIPERS JUST MAKES IT WORSE. ALSO, MY HEADLIGHTS DO NOT DO ANY JUSTICE. SOMETIMES I THINK I DO NOT HAVE THEM ON BECAUSE OF HOW DIM THEY ARE. AT NIGHT, I WOULD HAVE TO USE MY HIGH BEAMS ON THE HIGHWAY OR REGULAR ROADS SOMETIMES TO AVOID SHARP TURNS OR JUST TO SEE THE STREET LINES.

HEADLIGHTS HAVE GONE OUT MULTIPLE TIMES EVEN AFTER REPLACEMENT WITH NEW HEADLIGHT BULBS. THERE HAS BEEN ONE OCCASION WHERE THE HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT WHILE I WAS DRIVING AT NIGHT ON A BUSY ROAD. I'VE HAD TO REPLACE THE HEADLIGHTS AT LEAST EVERY 6 MONTHS BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE. *WHEN DID THIS HAPPEN* DATE IS THE MOST RECENT OF ALL OCCURRENCES. HEADLIGHTS ARE ALSO ALWAYS VERY DIM EVEN WITH NEW BULBS.

1st incident, 10/09/20 water intail lights smells of mildew 2nd " 11/1/20 water is leaking in trunk installed new gaskets to the tail lights 3rd " 6/9/21 removed drivers seat and gas/trunk latch lever and fuel door lever cable cable was found to be stretched and needs replaced. Parts were ordered 01/10/22 parts never came in because according to Kia they don't know how to fix it. I'am so sorry I bought this car with 2,992.31 still owed you should compensate by paying this off

THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS HID HAVE GONE IN AND OUT WHILE DIVING AT NIGHT..THEN THEY HAVE NOW BLOWN OUT TWICE.AT $100 DOLLARS A PIECE..THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE..!! THERE SEEMS TO BE A SHOT CIRCUIT IN THE LIGHT SWITCH ITSELF..IT HAS BLINKED OFF WHEN USING THE TURN SIGNAL AS WELL WHICH LEADS ME TO COME TO THIS CONCLUSION..

MY LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS ARE BARELY ON. I CAN NOT DRIVE AT NIGHT WITHOUT USING MY HIGH BEAMS. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND I HAVE SEEN ON THE INTERNET THAT THIS IS A VEY COMMON PROBLEM THAT IS NOT BEING ADDRESSED BECAUSE IT HAS NOT CAUSED ANY SERIOUS HARM TO PEOPLE. KIA NEEDS TO STEP UP AND DO A SAFETY RECALL TO FIX THIS PROBLEM.

2.0 HAS 73K MILES ON IT. ENGINE NOISY WHEN COLD START, LIKE A RATTLE AND KNOCK FOR ABOUT 2 SECONDS. OIL IS GOOD AND NO CODES. EVEN WHEN WARMED UP, THE ENGINE ALMOST SOUNDS LIKE THE MULTI PORT ENGINES MADE IN THE 80'S AND 90S WHEN ACCELERATING. KIND OF A 'WA WA WA WA WA' SOUND. TO ME, IT SOUNDS LIKE IT IS READY TO 'CHECK OUT'. SOMEONE TOLD ME IT COULD BE ROD BEARINGS.

I TOOKEN MY 2017 KIA FORTE IN TO THE DEALERSHIP COUNTLESS OCCASIONS FOR THE SAME ISSUE AND STILL WITH NO AVAIL. AS I'M DRIVING THE CAR ALL OF A SUDDEN THE CAR STARTS SHAKING THE ENGINE LIGHT GOES ON THEN THE CAR EITHER SHUTS OFF ON ITS OWN THEN GOT TO WAIT IT OUT FOR IT TO START. IF I GO TO TURN ON THE AC THE CAR ALSO SHUTS OFF. I'VE ALMOST GOTTEN HIT DUE TO THE CAR UN RELIABILITY.

ABOUT A WEEK OR TWO AGO WHILE GOING UP A HILL I NOTICED THE CAR TRYING TO STALL OUT. IT HAS BEGUN TO DO MORE FREQUENTLY NOW WHILE DRIVING AND WHILE IN IDLE AND/OR PARK ALSO. YOU CANNOT HEAR THE CAR 'KNOCK' BUT IT'S AS IF YOU CAN FEEL IT TRYING TOO. ONE INSTANCE I WAS IN A TURNING LANE AND THE CAR LITERARILY TRIED TO CUT OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC. THE RPM'S DROPPED AND CAR JUST FELT REAL SHAKY AND JUMPY. TOTAL EPISODES APPROXIMATELY IN ABOUT 2 WEEEKS I WOULD SAY ARE CLOSE TO MAYBE 10? THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME IN AT FIRST INSTANCE WHEN I WAS GOING UP A HILL AND HAS NEVER GONE OFF. BUT THE PROBLE HAS NOT BEEN CORRECTED BUT SEEMS TO HAVE GOTTEN WORSE.

ROUGH IDLING. ROUGH GEAR SHIFT FROM 1ST TO 2ND AND SRUTTER ON 3RD. LOSS OF POWER DURING TAKE OFFS. CAR IS ONLY 20,800 MILES. CHECKED TWICE ON DEALER. ONLY WIPED CODE AND RESET COMPUTER. CLAIM NOT TO BE ABLE TO REPLICATE. ISSUE COMES BACK WITH CHECK ENGINE LIGHT 30 MINS AFTER DRIVING AWAY.