2004 Mazda Mazda6 Complaint Log

MAY 25, 2010 RE: FAILURE OF TRACTION CONTROL MODULE: I HAVE A 2004 MAZDA 6 WAGON THAT I BOUGHT NEW IN THE SPRING OF 2005 FROM THE DEALER. IT IS THE SPRING OF 2010, THEREFORE IT HAS BEEN 5 YEARS. THE MILEAGE IS 32864. THE ABS (ANTI- LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM) LIGHT, THE TCS (TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM) LIGHT, THE BRAKE LIGHT, AND A PICTURE OF A CAR SKIDDING LIGHT, ALL CAME ON TOGETHER. THE MANUAL SAID IF THEY COME ON TOGETHER TO DRIVE SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY TO THE DEALER, SO I DID TO THE SAME DEALER THAT I BOUGHT IT FROM AND WHERE IT HAS BEEN SERVICED CONTINUOUSLY. THEY HOOKED IT UP TO THE COMPUTER AND IT TOLD THEM THAT A PART THAT SITS ON TOP OF THE ABS SYSTEM, THE TRACTION CONTROL MODULE, HAD FAILED. IT HAS TO BE ORDERED AND WILL TAKE 2 WEEKS TO ARRIVE AND THE PART COSTS $1600. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE CAR MIGHT HAVE ITS BRAKES FAIL AFTER A WHILE. I AM LETTING YOU KNOW SO THAT YOU CAN TRACK COMPLAINTS LIKE THIS IN CASE THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL, AT WHICH POINT I WOULD BE REIMBURSED. I HAVE A 20 YEAR OLD CAR THAT NEVER HAD AN EXPENSIVE PROBLEM LIKE THAT OCCUR IN TERMS OF A PART FAILING. A LITTLE VOICE TELLS ME THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THE PART AND THAT THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN. I PAID ABOUT $20,000 FOR THE CAR, AND $1600 FOR A PART PLUS TAX MAKES THAT CLOSE TO 10% OF THE PURCHASE PRICE AND I HAVE NOT YET DRIVEN EVEN 35,000 MILES. AND IF IT INVOLVES OTHER CARS, THAT IS ONLY THE FINANCIAL COST. NOT EVERYONE WHO EXPERIENCES EMERGENCY LIGHTS COME ON TAKE THE CAR TO THE DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED AND WHEN BRAKES ARE INVOLVED, AS HERE, THAT CAN RESULT IN LOSS OF LIFE. *TR

THE CLUTCH PEDAL BRACKET THAT HOLDS THE ASSEMBLY TO THE FIREWALL SNAPPED IN TWO AT THE POINT WHERE THE BRACKET MEETS ONE OF THE BOLTS THAT HOLDS THE BRACKET TO THE FIREWALL. *TR

GOODYEAR EAGLE GT TIRE SIDEWALL SPLITTING/TEARING. I PURCHASED FOUR NEW GOODYEAR GT TIRES, SIZE 215/50R-17 FROM RETAILER DISCOUNT TIRE IN CHARLOTTE, NC. ON MARCH 13, 2010 I NOTICED THAT THE DRIVER'S FRONT-TIRE WAS SPLITTING ON THE SIDEWALL. THESE "SPLITS" APPEARED ALONG THE "GOODYEAR" BRAND AREA, AROUND APPROXIMATELY SEVENTY-FIVE PERCENT OF THE TIRES SIDEWALL AREA. *TR

CONTINENTAL TIRE EXTREME CONTACT, SIDEWALL SEPERATION W LESS THAN 100 MILES. REPLACEMENT TIRE HAD TREAD SEPERATION WITHIN 24 HOURS. IF EITHER WAS NOT NOTICED A BLOWOUT AND VEHICLE DAMAGE WAS SOON. *TR

CONTINENTAL TIRE EXTREME CONTACT, SIDEWALL SEPARATION W LESS THAN 100 MILES. REPLACEMENT TIRE HAD TREAD SEPARATION WITHIN 24 HOURS. IF EITHER WAS NOT NOTICED A BLOWOUT AND VEHICLE DAMAGE WAS SOON. *TR

BOUGHT THIS CAR IN 2010 EVER SINCE I HAD IT NIGHTMARE, THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WOULD BANG BETWEEN 1ST AND 2ND GEAR AT JUST NORMAL SPEED, THE TIRES WOULD SPIN BECAUSE OF THIS. IT ALSO WOULD SLIP OUT OF GEAR IN 3RD WITH SHIFTING UP SOMETIMES. BUT JUST RECENTLY I FOUND OUT THAT THE INTAKE TUBE FOR THE CAR HAD A GIANT HOLE IN IT. SO FIXED THAT AND ITS NOT REALLY BANGING 1ST AND 2ND BUT SLIPS A LITTLE BIT. *TR

2004 MAZDA 6 WITH CORROSION AROUND THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL WELL. REPORTED TO MAZDA NORTH AMERICA OPERATION ON NOVEMBER 2. WAS REFERRED TO DEALER, KERRY MAZDA FLORENCE, KY FOR ASSESSMENT OF VEHICLE. PHOTOS WERE TAKEN OF CORROSION ON NOVEMBER 5 AT THE DEALER AUTO SERVICE CENTER. WAS TOLD I WILL HEAR FROM MAZDA NORTH AMERICA OPERATION REGARDING ANY FOLLOW UP AND NOT FROM THE DEALER. THE SERVICE CENTER MANAGER ALSO TOLD ME THAT MAZDA NORTH AMERICA OPERATIONS IS RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY REPAIRS NOT THE DEALER. RECONTACT WITH MAZDA NORTH AMERICA OPERATIONS ON NOVEMBER 23 BECAUSE I HAD NOT HEARD FROM DEALER OR MANUFACTURER REGARDING STATUS OF MY COMPLAINT. I WAS TOLD BY MAZDA NORTH AMERICA OPERATION THE BUSINESS MANAGER FOR KERRY MAZDA, FLORENCE, KY WILL CONTACT ME REGARDING RESOLUTION. WHEN I WAS CONTACTED LATER THAT SAME DAY I WAS TOLD MY VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY AT 60 MONTHS AND THEY COULD NOT DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. I AM NOW STUCK WITH A VEHICLE THAT HAS DAMAGE THAT IS CLEARLY DUE TO A MANUFACTURER DEFECT. ON DECEMBER 8 I WENT TO A LOCAL BODY SHOP TO GET AN ESTIMATE AND REPORT ON THE DAMAGE. I WAS TOLD BY THE BODY SHOP MANAGER THAT MY VEHICLE IS NOT OLD ENOUGH FOR RUST TO BE COMING THROUGH THE PAINT. I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT TO PROPERLY REPAIR MY VEHICLE WILL COST $3,000-$5,000 DEPENDING ON THE DAMAGE UNDER THE VEHICLE THAT CANNOT BE SEEN. ONLY THE RUST EFFECT ON THE PAINT THAT IS VISIBLE IS ALL WE COULD SEE. HE ALSO SAID THAT HE WOULD NOT GUARANTEE ANY REPAIRS WHERE PAINT IS APPLIED OVER RUST BECAUSE THEY WILL NOT HOLD. WHEN I PURCHASED MY VEHICLE I ALSO PAID TO HAVE UNDERCOATING AND OVERCOATING TO PROTECT IT FROM RUST AND CORROSION. HOWEVER, NEITHER OF THESE WARRANTIES ARE IN EFFECT AND I PURCHASED THESE THROUGH THE DEALERSHIP. MAZDA NORTH AMERICA OPERATION FILE # IS 126573620. *TR

2004 MAZDA 6 WAGON. DURING THE 6 MONTHS I HAVE OWNED THIS VEHICLE. I HAVE HAD FOUR OCCURRENCES WHEN TAKING A HIGHWAY RAMP THAT THE CAR EITHER STALLS OR LOOSES POWER WHEN RE-ENTERING THE ROADWAY. THIS OCCURS WHEN THE FUEL TANK IS A 1/4 FULL AND BELOW. *TR

SHIFT SHOCK WHEN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CHANGES GEARS. THIS IS AN INTERMITTENT, ONGOING OCCURRENCE. MAZDA HAS ISSUED A "TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN (TSB)" (#05-005/05) TO THE DEALERS TO REPAIR THIS USING A "FLASHING" OF THE COMPUTER SYSTEM. WARRANTY WON'T COVER IT BECAUSE IT INVOLVES THE COMPUTER. IT SHOULD BE A RECALL ITEM. THE TSB STATES THAT THE CONCERN IS CAUSED BY DRIVEN PLATE DEFORMATION DUE TO A RAPID RISE IN TEMPERATURE IN THE 2-4 BRAKE DRIVEN PLATE WHEN REPEATED SHIFTING IS DONE WITH A COLD ENGINE. IN PART, IT ALSO STATES THE LOGIC HAS BEEN CHANGED TO PREVENT AN ABNORMAL RISE IN 2-4 BRAKE DRIVEN PLATE TEMPERATURE. I HAVE A COPY OF THE BULLETIN AND CAN FAX IF NEEDED. *TR

ENGINE FAILED WHILE DRIVING BECAUSE OF A PROBLEM WITH THE THROTTLE BODY. THERE WAS NO WARNING. FOUND THAT MAZDA HAS KNOWN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM SINCE MAY 2006 IN FACT THERE IS A SERVICE BULLETIN THAT COMPLETELY IDENTIFIES THIS SITUATION DOWN TO THE PART NUMBER CODE ON THE DEFECTIVE PART. BULLETIN NUMBER 01-016/06. THIS HAPPENED ON A MAJOR FREEWAY AT 70 MPH, IT WAS JUST LUCK THAT I WAS ABLE TO GET OFF OF THE HIGHWAY WITHOUT A MAJOR INCIDENT. MY CAR WAS UNDER WARRANTY WHEN THIS BULLETIN CAME OUT WHY WAS IT NOT REPLACED OR RECALLED.. I HAVE SEEN RECALLS FOR MANY THINGS WITH LESS SAFETY IMPACT. I WAS CHARGE $473 FOR THE REPAIR. *TR

2004, 5SPEED MAZDA6 CATCHES FIRE AND BURNS TO A CRISP. GETTING ONTO A HIGHWAY A LOUD "POP" WAS HEARD THEN THERE WAS SMOKE-POPPED THE HOOD ALOT MORE SMOKE CHECKED UNDER THE CAR FOR LEAKS SAW ORANGE GLOW-10 SECONDS LATER THE CAR WAS UP IN FLAMES. *TR

AFTER EXITING A FREEWAY AND DECELERATING AND BRAKING NORMALLY, I WAITED BEHIND OTHER TRAFFIC FOR THE LIGHT TO CHANGE, WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND THE GEAR SELECTOR IN DRIVE. SUDDENLY, THE ENGINE RPMS INCREASED SHARPLY AND MY CAR MOVED FORWARD. I WAS UNABLE TO HOLD THE CAR IN PLACE WITH THE BRAKE PEDAL. I DEPRESSED THE BRAKE SO HARD THAT I SENSED THE PULSING OF THE ABS SYSTEM. THIS WAS COMPLETELY UNEXPECTED, SO BY THE TIME I SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL, MY CAR HAD STRUCK THE REAR OF THE ONE AHEAD. I THEN TURNED OFF THE IGNITION. NO DAMAGE WAS DONE, AND THE OTHER DRIVER AND I AGREED IT WAS A "NON-REPORTABLE" ACCIDENT. AFTER THE INCIDENT, I WAITED ABOUT 30 SECONDS AND RESTARTED THE CAR. I CONTINUED TO DRIVE HOME WITHOUT INCIDENT. MY CAR HAD OPERATED NORMALLY UNDER VARIOUS TRAFFIC CONDITIONS FOR THE PREVIOUS TWO HOURS. I WAS NOT USING THE AIR CONDITIONING AT THE TIME; I WAS RUNNING THE VENTILATOR FAN SYSTEM. IT IS HIGHLY UNLIKELY THAT I HAD DEPRESSED BOTH BRAKE AND ACCELERATOR TOGETHER, AS I HAD JUST BRAKED NORMALLY AND DID NOT MOVE MY FOOT FROM THE BRAKE PEDAL. (I CHECKED LATER TO SEE IF IT WAS EVEN POSSIBLE TO TOUCH BOTH PEDALS SIMULTANEOUSLY. I COULD NOT, WITHOUT PUTTING MY FOOT AT AN AWKWARD, ANGLED POSITION.) I ALSO CHECKED FOR A JAMMED FLOOR MAT, BUT IT WAS WELL CLEAR OF THE PEDALS. THIS UNEXPECTED ACCELERATION OCCURRED AT CA. 66,000 MI. THERE WAS ONE SUCH PREVIOUS INCIDENT, AT CA. 14,000 MI. THE MAZDA DEALER THAT REGULARLY SERVICES THE VEHICLE INSPECTED THE CAR AND RAN VARIOUS ELECTRONIC, THROTTLE, AND VACUUM TESTS, WITH ADVICE FROM MAZDA'S NATIONAL SERVICE CENTER. NO DEFECTS WERE FOUND. A SENIOR SERVICE MANAGER ALSO DROVE THE CAR FOR SOME SEVEN MILES UNDER VARIOUS TRAFFIC CONDITIONS, BUT THE PROBLEM DID NOT RECUR. A SERVICE ADVISOR AT THE DEALERSHIP SUGGESTED IT MIGHT BE AN INTERMITTENT ELECTRONICS PROBLEM; AND ALSO THAT MY WIFE AND I SHIFT FROM DRIVE TO NEUTRAL EACH TIME WE STOP IN TRAFFIC, AND WATCH THEN FOR SUDDEN RPM INCREASES. *TR

IGNITION COILS KEEP FAILING ON MAZDA 6 WHICH COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE OF LOSS OF POWER. OTHER PEOPLE WE KNOW WITH MAZDAS HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. *TR

THE DRIVER'S DOOR ON MY 2004 MAZDA 6 WILL NOT OPEN. THIS CAR HAS ELECTRIC LOCKS. ALL DOORS OPEN EXCEPT THE DRIVER'S DOOR. THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME THE LATCH WAS BAD AND IT WILL COST $400 TO REPAIR. THIS CREATES A SAFETY HAZARD. IF I AM IN A WRECK, I CAN'T OPEN THE DOOR TO GET OUT. THERE SHOULD BE A WAY TO MANUALLY DISENGAGE THE LOCKING MECHANISM IN CASE OF EMERGENCY. THIS IS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT AND ENGINEERING DEFECT. THIS IS A BIG SAFETY ISSUE WITH THIS CAR. *TR

BOUGHT NEW 2004 MAZDA6 AND ALREADY HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR ALSO MAZDA INFORMED ME THAT STARTER WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED SOON. WHY AM I REPLACING THESE PARTS SO SOON. *TR

DRIVER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN OR CLOSE; DUE TO LOCK NOT WORKING. *TR

PRE CATALYTIC CONVERTER FAILED, DESTROYING MY V6 ENGINE. I THOUGHT IT WAS A JOKE, BUT I HEARD SEVERAL CASES WITH OTHER PEOPLE WITH THE SAME VEHICLE; 2004 MAZDA 6S. $3000 FOR 4 NEW CATALYTIC CONVERTERS AND $4000 FOR A NEW V6 ENGINE=$7000....I DON'T THINK SO. *TR

1)NOV. '04....12 HOURS AFTER WE PURCHASED THE VEHICLE, WERE CALLED BACK TO HAVE MAZDA REPLACE GAS TANK "DUE TO RECALL".MAZDA "MISPLACED" MY NEW GAS TANK. TOOK APPROX.4 DAYS TO GET MY BRAND NEW CAR BACK IN MY POSSESSION. 2)05/01/04: A.COMPLAINED OF MOANING SOUND FROM STEERING WHEEL/ENGINE. B) BREAKS SQUEAKING LOUDLY. MAZDA"PROBLEM NOT DUPLICATED" 3)8-19-05 A. CLUTCH SHUDDERS WHEN GOING FROM 0-1 & 1-2 GEAR (MANUAL TRANS.) B. MOANING SOUND FROM STEERING/ENGINE RIGHT FRONT AREA. MAZDA: "UNABLE TO DUPLICATE" 3) CAR MAKES MOANING SOUND FROM STEERING/RIGHT FRONT ENGINE WHILE TURNING. MAZDA: "UNABLE TO DUPLICATE" PROBLEM LISTINGS GO ON WITH MY SAME COMPLAINTS. EACH TIME, MAZDA STATES "PROBLEM NOT DUPLICATED". NOW, WARRANTY IS UP, GUESS WHAT: MAZDA SAYS: "WE'VE FOUND YOUR PROBLEM! YEAH, WE FOUND IT REALLY QUICKLY, IS THE REASON THAT I'M CALLING YOU SO SOON. YOU NEED A NEW CLUTCH WHICH WILL FIX YOUR ONGOING CLUTCH COMPLAINT OF 3 YEARS. OH, AND WE'LL NEED TO ORDER A NEW ENGINE MOUNT, AND TAKE APART THE ENGINE TO TAKE A HARD LOOK AT THE TRANSMISSION. YOU SEEMS TO HAVE SOME PROBLEMS FROM YOUR CLUTCH WHICH AFFECTED THE TRANSMISSION. YOUR WARRANTY IS UP, AND WE WOULD HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM HAD WE NOTICED IT BEFORE 3,000 MILES. BUT, NO NEED TO WORRY.....WE'LL PUT YOU IN A RENTAL CAR...." *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MAZDA 6. THE HEADLIGHT BULBS FAILED SIMULTANEOUSLY. THE DEALER REPLACED THE BULBS FOUR TIMES, BUT THE FAILURE WAS NOT CORRECTED. THE CONTACT REPLACED THE BULBS WITH AFTERMARKET BULBS. THE REPLACEMENT WORKED TEMPORARILY. THE DEALER STATED THAT A DIAGNOSTIC WOULD COST $80 BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY AND THE FAILURE COULD BE DUE TO THE AFTERMARKET BULBS. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 102,000 AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000.

BRAKES SUDDENLY FAILED WHILE DRIVING BARELY AVOIDING A SERIOUS COLLISION. BRAKES WERE WORKING FINE BEFORE COMPLETE FAILURE. UPON INSPECTION BY A MECHANIC AT MIDAS THE LEFT FRONT BRAKE LINE WAS RUBBING AGAINST THE AXLE BOOT RESULTING IN A BREAK IN THE LINE AND TEARING OF THE BOOT. THIS RESULTED IN A COMPLETE LOSS OF BRAKE FLUID. PREVIOUSLY THE RIGHT FRONT BRAKE LINE HAD FALLEN OFF DURING PAD INSPECTION. *TR

MY COMPLAINT CONCERNS THE FOLLOWING ISSUE: IN THE SUMMER OF 2006, THIS CAR BEGAN TO EXHIBIT OCCASIONAL CLUNKING AND GRINDING FROM THE FRONT SUSPENSION DURING LOW SPEED MANEUVERS. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO MONTGOMERY MAZDA IN CHARLOTTE, NC, AND TIM MARBURGER MAZDA IN CONCORD, NC, FOR DIAGNOSIS. DURING THIS TIME, THE CAR WAS UNDER WARRANTY, AND HAD APPROX. 41,000 MILES ON THE ODOMETER. NEITHER DEALERSHIP COULD DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. ?IN LATE AUGUST 2007, THIS CAR BEGAN TO EXHIBIT CONTINUOUS CLUNKING AND GRINDING NOISES EMANATING FROM THE FRONT SUSPENSION DURING ALL DRIVING SITUATIONS. IN EARLY SEPTEMBER 2007, I TOOK THE CAR TO MONTGOMERY MAZDA IN CHARLOTTE, NC, FOR ANOTHER DIAGNOSIS. I WAS TOLD THAT THE ISSUE INVOLVED SPRING ISOLATORS AND BUSHINGS IN THE FRONT SUSPENSION, AND REPAIRS WOULD RUN APPROX. $480.00. I INQUIRED ABOUT WHETHER THIS ITEM WAS COVERED UNDER RECALL OR WARRANTY, AND WAS TOLD NO. ?ON SEPTEMBER 26, 2007, I TOOK THE CAR TO A LOCAL MECHANIC NEAR MY HOME, WHO VERIFIED THE DIAGNOSIS FROM MONTGOMERY MAZDA. HE CALLED THE DEALERSHIP TO INQUIRE ABOUT PARTS, AND WAS TOLD THAT SPRING ISOLATORS, BUSHINGS, AND OTHER PARTS TO CORRECT THIS PROBLEM HAD BEEN REDESIGNED, AND THAT THEY HAD BEEN ISSUED NEW PARTS NUMBERS. GIVEN THE FACT THAT I BROUGHT THIS MATTER TO THE ATTENTION OF MY LOCAL DEALERS WHILE THE CAR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANT, AND GIVEN THE FACT THAT THE REDESIGN OF THESE KEY SUSPENSION PARTS INDICATES A CLEAR, KNOWN DEFECT IN MATERIALS AND/OR DESIGN, I AM ASKING THAT MAZDA COVER THE COST OF REPAIRS ON MY CAR. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE EXTERIOR LIGHTING FAILS TO REMAIN ILLUMINATED ON THE VEHICLE. HE HAS CHANGED THE BULBS AT LEAST TEN TIMES, BUT THE FAILURE PERSISTS. HE FEELS THAT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE A SERIOUS CRASH COULD OCCUR WITHOUT THE LIGHTS WORKING PROPERLY. THE CONTACT HAS BEEN PULLED OVER BY THE POLICE THREE TIMES FOR DRIVING WITHOUT LIGHTS. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 118.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MAZDA 6. THE METAL BRAKE LINES WERE RUBBING AGAINST THE CV BOOTS. THEY HAVE WORN THROUGH BOTH SIDES OF THE BOOTS AND RESULTED IN HOLES FORMING IN THE BRAKE LINES ITSELF PER THE MECHANIC. HE ALSO STATED THAT THIS WAS A MANUFACTURER'S DEFECT. THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT BEEN NOTIFIED. THE VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY IN THE REPAIR SHOP. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 70,000. THE VIN NUMBER AND ENGINE SIZE ARE UNAVAILABLE.

I OWN A 2004 MAZDA 6 SPORTS SEDAN WHICH STILL HAS A FACTORY WARRANTY. MY WIFE & I ARE HAVING ELECTRICAL ISSUES WITH THE CAR WHICH IS CAUSING A 15 AMP FUSE TO KEEP BLOWING. THIS FUSE CONTROLS THE HORN, BRAKE LIGHTS, TURN SIGNALS, & CRUISE CONTROL. WE HAVE TAKEN THIS CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR THE SAME PROBLEM 3 TIMES NOW & ALL THEY SEEM TO DO IS REPLACE THE FUSE WITH A NEW ONE & SEND US ON OUR WAY WITH NO EXPLANATION OF WHY IT IS BLOWING. THEY ADVISE ME THAT THEY HAVE TESTED ALL ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS & CAN'T FIND ANY PROBLEMS. I HAVE A HUGE PROBLEM WITH THIS OCCURRING BECAUSE MY WIFE & I HAVE NO WAY OF KNOWING THIS FUSE IS BLOWN UNTIL WE EXIT THE VEHICLE & ATTEMPT TO ARM THE ALARM & HEAR NO HORN, OR SOMEONE LETS US KNOW OUR BREAK LIGHTS & TURN SIGNALS ARE NOT WORKING. NOT TO MENTION THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY HAZARD DRIVING IN STOP & GO TRAFFIC! THE CAR GIVES NO WARNING WHAT SO EVER & IF SOMEONE HITS THE VEHICLE IN THE REAR DUE TO NO BRAKE LIGHTS I DO NOT FEEL OBLIGATED TO FILE AN INSURANCE CLAIM ON THE OTHER DRIVER.....MAZDA CORPORATION SHOULD BE TOTALLY LIABLE FOR ANY ACCIDENT THAT MAY OCCUR DUE TO THIS DEFECT! *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2004 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT DOOR WOULD NOT UNLOCK. SHE TRIED TO UNLOCK THE DOOR WITH THE KEY, THE REMOTE, AND MANUALLY, BUT IT CONTINUED TO FAIL. THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO UNLOCK THE DOOR AND DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 73,000. *AK

I HAVE BEEN HAVING TROUBLE WITH THE HEADLIGHTS AND FOG LIGHTS ON MY 2004 MAZDA 6S. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE BULBS TWICE IN THE LAST 1.5 MONTHS, BY A DEALERSHIP. THEY ARE BURNING OUT, BUT NOT THE BRIGHTS. THE DEALERSHIP, CENTRAL MAZDA, IN PLAINFIELD, CT, HAD PUT THE VEHICLE THROUGH A SERIES OF ELECTRICAL TESTS THIS MORNING AND CAN'T SEEM TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM. THE DEALERSHIP HAS ONLY CHARGED ME FOR THE FIRST REPLACEMENT, BUT I AM NOT SURE THIS WILL CONTINUE TO BE A FREE SERVICE. I HAVE NO OTHER COMPLAINTS AT ALL ABOUT THE CAR. I BOUGHT IT NEW. *JB

DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY FROM CHICAGO TO WISCONSIN I NOTICED A KNOCK IN MY ENGINE THAT TURNED INTO 2 THROWN PISTONS THROUGH MY ENGINE BLOCK. I WORK FOR A CRASH TEST FACILITY. CARS ARE A DAILY COMPONENT IN MY LIFE. THE ENGINE HAD 45,000 MILES ON IT AND MAZDA REJECTED MY WARRANTY CLAIM. I ENDED UP SETTLING WITH THE DEALERSHIP AND TRANSFERRING MY LOAN TO A USED CAR. I WANTED TO POST THIS OCCURRENCE OF ENGINE FAILURE TO MAKE SURE IT WASN'T A COMMON OCCURRENCE. *TR

I WAS IN A FRONT-IMPACT COLLISION GOING APPROXIMATELY 10 MPH. THE DAMAGE TO MY MAZDA 6 WAS VERY MINIMAL TO THE FENDER. THE TRUCK I HIT HAD NO DAMAGE WHATSOEVER. BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED IN THE VEHICLE. THE AUTO BODY SHOP SAID THEY COULD NOT UNDERSTAND WHY THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED IN SUCH A MINOR COLLISION. BOTH AIRBAGS NEED TO BE REPLACED AT A VERY COSTLY PRICE. *NM

OCCASIONALLY CAR WILL NOT COME OUT OF PARK, TOOK ITTO DEALER TWICE FOR SERVICE. THE FIRST TIME THEY REPLACED A SWITCH, SECOND TIME COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM. DEALER SERVICE CENTER RECOMMENDED TO USE E-BRAKE WHEN PARKING, AND THIS WA S NORMAL IF PARKING ON A INCLINE. PROBLEM GOT WORSE, FROM ANALYZING THE PROBLEM MYSELF, DETERMINED THAT THE INCLINE OR E-BRAKE HAD NO RELATION. THE PROBLEM OCCURRED DURING A VERY HOT DAY WHEN LEAVING WORK. DETERMINED THAT IF IT JERKED SHIFTED IT BACK AND FORTH ABOUT 10 TIMES, WHEN I HEARD A CLICK, AT THAT TIME.I COULD MOVE THE SHIFT LEVER OUT OF PARK. *AK

FRONT BRAKE DISCS SEVERE VIBRATION ON STEERING WHEN APPLYING BRAKES! *JB

2004 MAZDA 6 MADE A RATTLING SOUND IN THE FRONT END. UPON INSPECTION MECHANIC DETERMINED THE RADIATOR HAD A HOLE IN IT, AND ONE FAN BLADE BROKE OFF OF THE FAN. *KB ***NAR*** THE HOLE IN THE RADIATOR CAUSED STEAM TO COME FROM UNDER THE HOOD. ALTHOUGH IT WAS EVIDENT THAT THE VEHICLE WAS OVERHEATING THE TEMP GAUGE REMAINED IN THE NORMAL RANGE AND DID NOT INDICATE OVERHEATING. *NM

RE: MAZDA 6 V6 MADE IN THE FORD/MAZDA AUTO ALLIANCE FACTORY IN FLAT ROCK, MI. THE MILES/SPEED I LISTED ARE ACTUALLY N/A - THIS IS AN ONGOING PROBLEM THAT HAS EXISTED FOR MOST OF THE 10 YEARS I'VE OWNED THIS CAR. I COMPLAINED ABOUT SMELLING BURNING OIL COMING INTO THE CAR'S CABIN SINCE THE CAR WAS ONLY 1 YEAR OLD, BUT THE MAZDA REPAIR TECHS APPEARED TO "NEVER NOTICE THE SMELL". IT WAS MORE THAN A YEAR OR SO AFTER MY WARRANTY ENDED - DESPITE A DOZEN INSTANCES OF COMPLAINING TO MAZDA DEALERS OF THIS SMELL - THAT I REALIZED MY PROBLEM WAS OIL LEAKING FROM MY V6 MOTOR'S TIMING CHAIN COVER. THE OIL LEAKS DOWN THE SIDE & BOTTOM OF THE MOTOR & DRIPS (ONLY WHILE DRIVING, NEVER WHILE RESTING) ONTO THE TOP OF ONE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM'S CATALYTIC CONVERTERS. THE INTENSE HEAT OF THE CONVERTER VAPORIZES THE OIL, THE RESULT OF WHICH ENTERS THE CAR'S CABIN THROUGH THE HVAC SYSTEM. I HAVE BEEN ADDING A QUART OF OIL ALMOST EVERY TWO MONTHS FOR YEARS NOW, BREATHING THIS CARCINOGENIC VAPOR AND WORRYING ABOUT AN ENGINE FIRE FOR THE BETTER PART OF A DECADE NOW. LEADING UP TO DISCOVERING THE LEAK, I HAD REPLACED MY VALVE COVER GASKETS & OIL PAN & GASKETS AT GREAT COST. THE PROPER REPAIR FOR THIS WOULD LIKELY REQUIRE REMOVING MY CAR'S ENGINE & A 12 HOUR REPAIR AT $100 PER HOUR, AND THAT'S JUST THE LABOR. WHEN RESEARCHING THIS PROBLEM, IT APPEARS IN ONLINE FORUMS TO BE A CONSISTENT PROBLEM FOR HUNDREDS (LIKELY THOUSANDS) OF OWNERS, AND VARIATIONS OF THIS FORD-MADE V6 ENGINE ARE INSTALLED IN A DOZEN FORD AND MAZDA CARS. I FIRMLY BELIEVE THAT OVER THE YEARS FORD - KNOWING THIS WAS A CONSISTENT PROBLEM - ADVISED IT'S DEALER NETWORK TO KEEP HUSH-HUSH AND PRETEND TO NOT UNDERSTAND OR NOTICE THE PROBLEM IN AN EFFORT TO AVOID A COSTLY RECALL CAMPAIGN. I FEEL THAT THE TIME HAS COME FOR FORD, NOT MAZDA, TO PAY THE PIPER, AND I WOULD LIKE MY CAR REPAIRED WITHOUT A FINANCIAL HARDSHIP PLACED UPON ME. *TR

2004 MAZDA6 THIS IS WHAT I SENT TO MAZDA AND THEIR REPLY: "33968 MILES. SECOND TIME THE FRONT ROTORS HAD TO BE TURNED DOWN BECAUSE OF WARPING. FIRST TIME NO CHARGE (22,780 MILES), THIS TIME A CHARGE OF $119.99. THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THEY ARE NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY, YET THE WARRANTY INFORMATION BOOK PAGE 9 STATES "ANY COMPONENT...48 MONTHS OR 50,000 MILES". THE MAZDA6 OWNER'S WEB PAGES HAVE MANY DISCUSSIONS ON THE UNDERSIZED WEAK WARPING FRONT ROTORS. - FIRST ARE THE ROTORS COVERED IN THE WARRANTY? - SECOND AND MOST IMPORTANT ARE THE ENGINEERS AT MAZDA LOOKING INTO REPLACING THIS WEAK COMPONENT. LOVE THE CAR BUT THIS IS MY WIFE'S TRANSPORTATION TO WORK AND BACK 90 MILES ROUND TRIP. I PURCHASED THIS FOR HER SO I WOULD NOT WORRY ABOUT HER CAR. NOW I'M LOOKING AT WHAT, $119.99 EVERY 11,000 MILES UNTIL THE BIG DAY WHEN THEY HAVE TO BE REPLACED (WHICH THE DEALERSHIP SAID WOULD BE THE NEXT TIME). THEN REPLACE WITH WHAT, OEM AND START ALL OVER. YOUR CONCERN IN THIS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED." THEIR REPLY: "I REGRET TO READ OF YOUR RECENT EXPENDITURE FOR REPAIRING YOUR VEHICLE'S BRAKES. AS YOU KNOW SPECIFIC INFORMATION REGARDING WARRANTY COVERAGE CAN BE FOUND IN THE WARRANTY INFORMATION BOOKLET THAT MAZDA PROVIDES WITH ALL NEW VEHICLES. MAZDA'S NEW VEHICLE LIMITED WARRANTY IS FOR 48-MONTHS OR 50,000 MILES, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST. THIS IS A BUMPER-TO-BUMPER WARRANTY BUT DOES NOT COVER MAINTENANCE FOR WEAR ITEMS SUCH AS OIL CHANGES, BRAKE PADS, TIRES, CLUTCH, ETC. PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THAT YOUR WARRANTY ONLY COVERS DEFECTS IN WORKMANSHIP OR MATERIALS, NOT ITEMS RELATED TO MAINTENANCE, NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR, OR OUTSIDE INFLUENCES. PLEASE REFER TO PAGE 12 OF YOUR WARRANTY INFORMATION BOOKLET." I WONDER IF THEY EVER READ THEIR OWN WARRANTY BOOK, HOW CAN TURNING AND REPLACING ROTORS BE A "NORMAL MAINTENANCE SERVICE" ? *JB

HEADLIGHTS DO NOT ILLUMINATE WELL ON OUR 2004 MAZDA 6 . THEY HAVE ALREADY BEEN REPLACED AND LOOKED AT BY THE DEALER TWICE AND THE PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS. THE LIGHTS ARE SO DIM THAT IT IS SERIOUSLY HARD TO SEE AT NIGHT, SO WE CAN ONLY DRIVE THIS CAR IN THE DAYLIGHT. WE ARE AFRAID TO RUN OVER SOMETHING OR SOMEONE, OR GET PULLED OVER BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE, AND WE ARE AFRAID THIS MAY CAUSE A CAR CRASH AS WELL. UNFORTUNATELY, THERE IS JUST NOT ANYTHING THAT WILL FIX IT. THE AUTO DEALER DOESN'T EVEN WANT TO DEAL WITH THIS ANYMORE AND HAVE REJECTED OUR WARRANTY. THEY SAID THAT THE CAR HAS BEEN TAMPERED WITH OR ALTERED AND SO HAVE DECLINED TO RECOGNIZE THE WARRANTY ON IT. HOWEVER, WE KNOW THERE HAS NOT BEEN ANY TAMPERING NOR ALTERING! THE CAR IS THE WAY IT CAME. THIS MAY VERY WELL BE A MANUFACTURE DEFECT THAT MAZDA DOESN'T WANT TO DEAL WITH. *TR

1)DRIVING IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. SPEED OF ABOUT 15 MPH WHEN A CAR 3 CARS AHEAD OF ME QUICK STOPPED. I HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME AND BOTH AIRBAGS DEPLOYED. 2) FUMES AND POWDER OR DUST OF SOME SORT CAME OUT OF AIRBAG LANDED ON MY HAND AND GAVE ME A 2ND DEGREE BURN. WHATEVER IT WAS ALSO MELTED THE EDGE OF MY JACKET SLEEVE. 3) CAR IS BEING REPAIRED AT AUTO BODY SHOP, BUT AM LEARY OF AIRBAG. *JB

2004 MAZDA 6S WAS INVOLVED IN A SINGLE CAR ACCIDENT. THE CAR WAS SPEEDING AND WENT OVER A CURB, AND THE DRIVER LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. THE BACK RIGHT END, FRONT END, AND BOTH SIDES HAD EXTENSIVE DAMAGE (THE VEHICLE WAS DECLARED TOTALED). THE CAR DID 1 COMPLETE ROLL-OVER DURING THE ACCIDENT, LANDING ON ALL 4 WHEELS AGAIN. NONE OF THE AIRBAGS IN THE VEHICLE DEPLOYED. I CONTACTED THE CAR MANUFACTURER TO FIND INFORMATION ABOUT WHEN THE AIRBAGS SHOULD DEPLOY, AND THEY TOLD ME "IT WAS NOT THEIR ISSUE", AND TO CONTACT MY INSURANCE COMPANY. I HAVE YET TO FIND ANY INFORMATION UNTIL THIS WEBSITE. *JB

MY 2004 MAZDA 6 THAT I LOVED SO MUCH WHEN I PURCHASED IT EARLIER THIS YEAR, HAS BECOME A VEHICLE I HATE TO DRIVE. MY CAR HAS A SERIOUS TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (AS BEST AS I CAN TELL). THE FIRST SYMPTOM IS A HORRIBLE WHINE WHILE IDLING OR ACCELERATING. WHILE DRIVING THE NOISE IS ACCOMPANIED BY TERRIBLE SHIFTING. MY RPMS OFTEN APPROACH 5 AND THE CAR JERKS TERRIBLY WHEN THE TRANSMISSION "CATCHES". I FEEL AS IF MY BODY IS TAKING A BEATING EVERY TIME I DRIVE. I HAVE HAD THE CAR AT THE DEALERSHIP ON THREE OCCASIONS FOR THIS PROBLEM. THE FIRST TIME, THEY COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM. THE SECOND TIME THEY REPLACED THE WATER PUMP, I DON'T KNOW WHY. AND THIS LAST TIME THEY FOUND THE PROBLEM...THEY COULDN'T NOT THIS TIME, IT HAD GOTTEN SO BAD THAT I WARNED THE DRIVER PICKING IT UP TO BUCKLE UP AND HOLD ON. HE LATER REPORTED TO ME IT WAS THE ROUGHEST RIDE OF HIS LIFE. THE PROBLEM WAS REPORTED TO ME AS A PROGRAMMING PROBLEM AND FIXED. THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH THAT IS HERE I AM 10 DAYS LATER, AND IT'S RIGHT BACK TO WHERE IT WAS BEFORE THE REPAIR. CAN ANYONE SAY "LEMON LAW"? *NM

PROBLEM #1 HIGH AMBIENT AIR TEMPERATURE (80+) AND MEDIUM TO HIGH HUMIDITY (50%+), WHEN AIR CONDITIONER IS IN MANUAL MODE, VENT FLOW IS SET TO FRONT FORWARD ONLY OR FRONT FORWARD PLUS BOTTOM AND TEMPERATURE IS SET BETWEEN 70-73 WITH A FAN SPEED SET BETWEEN ANY OF 1, 2, OR 3 BARS A 1-3 INCH BAND OF FOGGING OCCURS ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE WINDSHIELD ALONG THE BOTTOM ACROSS MOST OF THE WINDSHIELD. THIS CREATS A VISIBILITY PROBLEM IN THAT THE VISION OF THE WINDSHIELD IS REDUCED SINCE THIS IS ALMOST IN THE DIRECT LINE OF VISION WHEN YOU ARE IN THE DRIVERS SEAT AND DRIVING. THIS HAS BEEN REPORTED BY MANY OWNERS OF THIS VICHICLE ONTO THE INTERNET AND FROM MANY DIFFERENT AREAS OF THE COUNTRY. AFTER REPEATED TRIPS TO THE DEALER THIS PROBLEM IS STILL OCCURING AND THERE DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE A FIX. THE DEALER TRIED TO SAY IT WAS BECAUSE I LIVE IN TEXAS THIS OCCURS BUT I HAVE LIVED IN TEXAS ALMOST 15 YEARS AND NEVER HAD ANY OTHER CAR THAT DOES THIS EVER!*JB

AUG 27 ENGINE NOISE, AUG 29 MAZDA DIAGNOSED INTERNAL ENGINE DAMAGE. 2004 19,000 MILES UNDER WARRANTY-MAZDA WONT REPAIR, SAYS THE OIL CHANGE OF 7-23 WAS NOT PERFORMED CORRECTLY. $8000-$9000 TO FIX ENGINE, NOTHING DONE AT THIS TIME , TRYING TO FIND AN ATTORNEY. *JB

I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF THE VEHICLE, I COMPLAINED OF ENGINE SURGE ON SEVERAL VISITS TO MAZDA, AND THEY WOULD ALWAYS SAY THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. I WAS RECENTLY DRIVING THE VEHICLE WHEN IT ACCELERATED ON IT'S OWN, THE RPM'S WOULD FLUCTUATE BETWEEN 2 AND 4. THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED UNCONTROLLABLY, I HAD DIFFICULTY STOPPING AT STOP SIGNS AND TRAFFIC LIGHTS ON MY WAY TO MY MECHANIC. WHEN I REACHED HIS GARAGE I LEFT THE VEHICLE IN PARK TO SHOW HIM WHAT IT WAS DOING AND IT IDLED AT 3 RPMS. THE MECHANIC HAS NOT BEEN ABLE TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE. I HAVE RESEARCHED THE PROBLEM AND HAVE FOUND THAT OTHER MAZDA AND FORD VEHICLES HAVE HAD SIMILAR ISSUES. *TR

DT: CONSUMER'S VEHICLE HAS A HANDLE ABOVE THE DOOR OF THE BACK SEAT. CONSUMER'S MOTHER WAS HOLDING ONTO HANDLE WHEN IT BROKE LOOSE. CONSUMER'S MOTHER IS ELDERLY AND SHE SUSTAINED A BRUISE ON HER FOREHEAD, AND PULLED THE MUSCLES ON HER NECK , BACK AND SHOULDER BLADE. THIS WAS THE FIRST TIME ANYONE HAD SET IN THE BACK SEAT. WHAT EVER HELD HANDLE IN THE SLOT OF THE BODY BROKE. CONSUMER SAID IT LOOKED LIKE HANDLE WAS HELD IN WITH CLIPS.*AK *NM

CAR MAKES A NOISE FROM BRAKES WHEN TURINING ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT AND APPLYING PRESSURE TO THE BRAKES. IT'S NOT A NORMAL BRAKE SQUEAL, IT'S MORE OF A MOANING NOISE. IT IS DEFINATELY COMING FROM THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT BRAKE. IT DOES NOT HAPPEN WHEN IT TURNS TO THE RIGHT. IT ALSO NORMALLY OCCURRS WHEN THE VEHICLE/BRAKES ARE HOT. IT HAS BEEN OCCURRING FOR THE PAST 10 MONTHS. TWO SEPERATE MAZDA DEALERSHIPS SAY THERE IS NO PROBLEM AND THEY "CAN'T REPRODUCE THE SOUND." AT PINNACLE MAZDA (RENTON, WA), THE SERVICE MANAGER SAID THERE WAS NO PROBLEM. I HAD A MECHANIC RIDE WITH ME TO TRY AND MAKE THE SOUND. DURING THE RIDE, HE STATED THAT MAZDA HAS BEEN HAVING A "TON OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT BRAKES, ESPECIALLY THE RX-8, BUT ALSO ON THE MAZDA 6 AND MAZDA 3." HE FURTHER STATED, "IT DOESN'T SEEM LIKE MAZDA CAN FIND A FIX EITHER." I THOUGHT THIS WAS INTERESTING COMING FROM A MAZDA MECHANIC. ULTIMATELY, MY CAR STILL MAKES THE NOISE. I HAVE A CO-WORKER WHO HAS THE SAME CAR, AND IT TOO MAKES THE SAME NOISE.

I HAVE A 2004 MAZDA6 WAGON WITH AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. I HAVE BROUGHT THE CAR INTO A MAZDA DEALERSHIP TWICE TO FIX A ROUGH SHIFTING TRANSMISSION. THE CAR HAS 30,000 MILES AND IS UNDER WARRANTY. THE SHIFTS BETWEEN GEARS ARE FREQUENTLY VERY ROUGH AND HAVE BEEN DESCRIBED BY OTHERS IN INTERNET MAZDA FORUMS AS "SHIFT SHOCK." THE BURNSVILLE, MN MAZDA DEALER CLAIMS THE TRANSMISSION WAS DESIGNED TO SHIFT ROUGH. I HAVE ASKED TO MEET WITH A MAZDA REPRESENTATIVE. *NM

CAR IS A MAZDA 6 SPORT WAGON 2004 WITH POWER DOOR LOCKS. THIS IS NOT A COMPLAINT AGAINST A DEALER OR THE MANUFACTURER (MAZDA) AT THIS POINT. THEY ARE CURRENTLY WORKING ON THE PROBLEM AND I EXPECT A SATISFACTORY FIX. THE ISSUE HERE IS THE FAILURE MODE OF THE PART OF THE CAR IN QUESTION WHICH PART IS DOOR LOCKS. THE FIRST DAY WE HAD THE CAR, WE HAD THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR LOCK NOT OPEN USING THE KEY FOB OR THE KEY. WE COULD NOT OPEN THE DOOR FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES AND THEN, SUDDENLY, IT STARTED WORKING AGAIN. TWO DAYS LATER, THE FAILURE RE-OCCURED IN THE SAME WAY AND, AGAIN, WE WERE ABLE TO GET INTO THE CAR EVENTUALLY WITH REPEATED TRIAL. THIS IS THE IMPORTANT PART. ON APR 21, MY WIFE WAS DRIVING THE CAR AND STOPPED AT HER DESTINATION. THE FAILURE OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR LOCK OCCURED AGAIN BUT THIS TIME SHE WAS INSIDE THE CAR. SHE FOUND SHE COULD NOT OPEN THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR BY ANY MEANS AT ALL. THE DOOR WAS NOT JAMMED, IT WAS JUST THAT THE DOOR WOULD NOT UNLOCK. THE FOB WOULD NOT UNLOCK, THE MANUAL BUTTON WOULD NOT UNLOCK AND THE DOOR LEVER WOULD NOT UNLOCK. SHE HAD TO CLIMB OVER THE CONSOLE (NO SMALL FEAT) AND GET OUT THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR. I BELIEVE THIS REPRESENTS A SIGNIFICANT RISK TO HEALTH AND WELL-BEING AS THERE ARE TIMES WHEN YOU MIGHT NEED TO GET OUT OF A CAR TO SAVE LIFE OR LIMB. I THINK THE FAILURE MODE OF THIS LOCK SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED AND EVALUATED FOR SAFETY RISK. *AK

DT: AIR CONDITIONER WILL FOG UP THE WINDSHIELD. IT BLOWS THROUGH THE DEFROSTER AND IT BLOWS MOISTURE ON THE WINDSHIELD. THIS HAPPENS MOSTLY IN THE MORNING AND EVENING AND WHEN IT RAINS. DEALER AND MANUFACTURER SAID THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. *AK THE MATERIAL ON THE SEATS WAS COMING A APART, THE DOOR HANDLES WERE INOPERATIVE. *JB

ORIGINALLY, 5 MONTHS AGO, I NOTICED A PROBLEM WITH MY 2004 MAZDA 6I AT WHEN STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT. I NOTICED THE CARS IDLE PICK UP AND THE DASHBOARD DISPLAY FLICKERED. THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY AND THE CAR WAS FINE. A WEEK LATER, I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AND AGAIN THE DASHBOARD STARTED FLICKERING AND THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE AND HESISTATED TO STAY AT A CONSISTENT SPEED. THIS WAS HIGHLY DANGEROUS AS I COULD NOT KEEP UP WITH THE FLOW OF TRAFFIC AND COULD HAVE EASILY CAUSED AN ACCIDENT. THE PROBLEM CEASED IN A SPAN OF 2 MINUTES AND THE CAR WAS FINE. I IMMEDIATELY SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT AT MY LOCAL MAZDA SERVICE CENTER AND AFTER TWO DAYS OF INVESTIGATING, THEY COULD NOT FIND THE PROBLEM, THEREFORE THEY COULD NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM ACTUALLY NEVER OCCURED AGAIN UNTIL A FEW WEEKS AGO. I WAS DRIVING HOME AND I NOTICED SOME HESITENCY IN ACCELERATION AND AS I PULLED IN MY GARAGE, THE CAR FLAT OUT STALLED. I TOOK THE CAR OUT ON ROADS THAT WERE NOT BUSY AND THE PROBLEM DID NOT HAPPEN AGAIN. THEN LAST NIGHT AS I WAS PULLING IN ON, THE EXACT PROBLEM THAT HAPPENED PREVIOUSLY HAPPENED AGAIN AND MY CAR STALLED AFTER ENTERING MY GARAGE. I AM SOME WHAT FEARFUL OF DRIVING MY CAR ON THE FREEWAY WITH THE THOUGHT IT COULD STALL OUT. *AK

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE VEHICLE INTERMITTENTLY WILL NOT START. THE VEHICLE OFTEN STARTS IF THE KEY IS TURNED TO THE START POSITION AND HELD THERE FOR OVER A MINUTE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES FOR INSPECTION. THE DEALER REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP; HOWEVER THAT DID NOT REMEDY THE PROBLEM. THE CONSUMER ALSO STATED THE ENTIRE VEHICLE VIBRATED WHILE DRIVING. UPDATED 02/07/06. *JB

CONSUMER REQUESTING INFORMATION TO BE INCLUDED IN MAZDA OWNERS MANUAL. THAT VEHICLE MAY CUT OUT OR LOSE POWER , ETC. WHILE DRIVING. *BF THE CONSUMER REQUESTED TO HAVE INFORMATION ADDED TO THE MANUAL REGARDING THE CONSUMERS NEED TO WATCH RPM'S AND LET OFF OF THE GAS BEFORE THE ENGINE GETS TO THE RED LINE AND SHUTS ITSELF DOWN. WHEN THE THROTTLE IS FULLY DEPRESSED WHILE PASSING, THE ENGINE DOWNSHIFTS AS IT IS SUPPOSED TO BUT WILL NEVER UPSHIFT AGAIN UNTIL THE DRIVER CONSCIOUSLY PATS THE ACCELERATOR TO MAKE IT UPSHIFT OR THE ENGINE HITS THE REDLINE ON THE RPM MODULE. *TC

WHILE PARKING ON AN INCLINE I ATTEMPTED TO SET THE CARAS PARKING BRAKE. WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL, I PULLED THE BRAKE HANDLE FULLY UPWARD WITHOUT HOLDING THE BUTTON. WHEN I RELEASED MY HAND FROM THE PARKING BRAKE, I FOUND THE HANDLE TO STILL BE IN MY HAND BECAUSE IT HAD FALLEN BACK DOWN AS A RESULT OF NEVER ENGAGING. I ATTEMPTED TO SET THE PARKING BRAKE A MINIMUM OF 4 MORE TIMES WITH NO SUCCESS. IN A FINAL ATTEMPT, I PULLED THE HANDLE SWIFTLY AND MUCH MORE FIRMLY UPWARD AT WHICH POINT THE BRAKE FINALLY BECAME SET. I RETESTED THE PARKING BRAKE BY RELEASING IT AND SETTING IT AGAIN WITH SUCCESS. I RECENTLY TOOK THE CAR IN FOR SERVICE 11/8/04 BECAUSE THE CAR HAS A HISTORY OF THE PARKING BREAK RELEASING BY ITSELF BUT IT HAS NEVER BEEN TOTALLY UNABLE TO BE SET. CULVER CITY MAZDA STATES THAT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PARKING BREAK FAILURE SO NO REPAIRS WERE MADE. IT WAS SUGGESTED THAT WHEN PULLING UP THE BRAKE HANDLE I SHOULD NOT PUSH THE BUTTON, WHICH IS SOMETHING I ALWAYS PRACTICED PRIOR TO THIS COMPLICATION.*AK

CAR HAS SLIGHT PULL TO THE RIGHT EVER SINCE IT WAS PURCHASED NEW FROM THE DEALER. VARIOUS REPAIRS HAVE NOT ELIMINATED THE PROBLEM. HAVE NOT HAD ANY INCIDENTS, BUT THE NATURE OF THE PROBLEM COULD BE CONSTRUED AS HAVING THE POTENTIAL FOR INCIDENT. *TR