2010 Mazda Mazda6 Complaint Log

I looked up recalls on my vehicle and it states that The 2011 Mazda6 is  part of a recall (NHTSA 19V-323, Mazda 2818I) covering 2011-2013 models for front cross member (subframe) corrosion due to insufficient rust protection . In salt-belt states, this corrosion can cause the lower control arm to detach, reducing steering control and increasing crash risk.  Key Details regarding the 2011 Mazda6 Subframe Recall: Scope: The recall affects specific 2011-2013 Mazda6 vehicles (and 2009-2010 models in a previous, related recall). Location Restrictions: Vehicles must have been originally sold in, or currently/previously registered in, 23 "salt belt" states (including CT, NY, MI, MN, OH, etc.). The Issue: The front cross member may experience severe corrosion, causing structural failure of the passenger-side lower control arm mounting point. Symptoms: Drivers may notice a change in steering alignment or a broken cross member. Remedy: Dealers will inspect the cross member and replace it if necessary. Action Required: Owners should contact their local Mazda dealership to check their VIN for open recalls.  The recall was officially announced in May 2019 and is an expansion of a 2018 action. 

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently veered to the left. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle became difficult to steer. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed and determined that the engine cradle had failed and was severely rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was contacted; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 114,000.

The airbag light is still flashing on the dashboard after the airbag recall on this vehicle was fixed. It may be related to a different recall, which is safety campaign #16V594000.

Extensive rust and corrosion in rear subframe. So severe the vehicle is unsafe to drive.

2010 mazda 6 i series sedan the entire rear subframe/cradle is rotted along with all the other parts connected to it, the A arm, bumper stops, control arms, rear sway bar the entire rear under carriage. took it to the shop and they said there have been several complaints about this exact issue on several of these cars from 09-13 models. the parts was not painted correctly like the front that was recalled. exposed to all weather elements, the shop wants almost 4k for labor only to fix but the main problem is finding the rear subframe on these cars is almost impossible next to cost a fortune. now i have a yard ornament. junk yard wants to give me 170 bucks for the car but im not doing that. Mazda needs to fix this issue. i would of never know it was rotted out unless i took it to the shop for rear swaying and sagging. its all over the road. very dangerous and will cause a wreck almost certainly. please someone do something about this issue. dont have the money to fix this let alone buy another car.

The rear subframe is compromised; it separated from the body of the car. The vehicle is in my driveway and available for inspection should the need arise. The rear end had felt a bit shaky for a month so I took it to my mechanic, who declared the vehicle "unfit for the road" due to the fact that the subframe was rotted away and detached from the car itself. I was told one big bump is an accident waiting to happen...pieces of the car would go flying and I could be left with zero mobility to evade oncoming traffic. The possibility of projectiles injuring anyone around the car was enough for me to park it. The car has not been inspected by Mazda, the police, or insurance because there was no accident. Since it's not safe to drive, I took the word of my independent mechanic rather than driving it to a dealership. There were no warnings other than a bit of a sway in the rear end, which I originally attributed to its age. I've researched the issue and it seems to be a result of subpar quality with regard to the metal that was used in manufacturing.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated while driving 40–45 MPH, there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. The TPMS warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who informed the contact that the rear main sub frame was completely rusted. There was a crack detected in the middle of the sub frame. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the rear sub frame was rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer informed the contact that it was normal wear and tear, but no assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.

Rear sub frame on car rusting out. Never protected from corrosion or rust. Car is currently in shop. Car has rusted out in the joint just behind drivers rear tire. Received notice of recall on the front of car due to salt and weather conditions front sub frame area replaced . Currently multiple cars have same issues Mazda hasnt fixed or issued any repairs for this

My gf went for a basic oil change and the automotive person was shocked to find the rear right cross bar to be suffering from incredible corrosion. He said at this point it is unsafe to drive. We looked into recalls for this make and model and there is one for the front cross bar due to insufficient or improper application of a corrosion spray on the frame. How can they say the front needs to be recalled and not the back? If the dealership didn’t do a good job of covering the appropriate metal frame in corrosion resistant spray any car that has that level should be recalled. This is immensely dangerous

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the rear frame detached from the vehicle. The contact stated that the vehicle was previously repaired under NHTSA Campaign Number: 18V631000 (Suspension, Structure) and the contact related the failure to the recall. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

The rear frame completely corroded. I was on my way to work this morning and the frame broke due to corrosion. I almost lost my life this morning. According to the recall only the front end was considered faulty. I took the vehicle in for the recall and only the front was looked at and replaced.

While im driving the steering is shifting to the right and seems lower on right side. My tires daily need to have air in them because of the uneven weight. While I drive and let go of the gas the car pulls back like an E brake could be stuck not sure though. No accidents at all but it seems like the vehicle is getting weaker and weaker with the uneven weight going down on the tires and steering seems like it's going to crash onto the right without being able to control it.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6 . The contact stated while driving approximately 25 mph and drove over a bump and lost control of the vehicle and crashed into another vehicle. The contact stated the disc off warning light was illuminated. The contact stated no one was injured nor sought medical attention. A police report was not filed. The vehicle was not drivable. The contact was towed to her residence and then to a local dealer, where it was diagnosed with the rear structure was corroded and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 180,000. The contact stated that the dealership deemed the vehicle unsafe to bring to the shop and therefore did not perform the necessary repairs in the recall. The dealer notified the contact about that as well as the manufacturer. The contact must arrange a way to tow the vehicle off of their lot.

The contact called on behalf of a client who owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the steering wheel failed to operate as designed and the vehicle was pulling either to the left or the right. The vehicle was diagnosed that the rear passenger’s side cross member was rusted and needed to be replaced. The dealer was notified of the failure and the contact was advised that the rear cross member was not covered. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and the mechanic was informed that the customer was liable for the cost of the repair. The failure mileage was approximately 70,000.

I took car to dealership for recall repair (3) one of which was for front sub-frame corrision While it was there thet called Me and said that the rear sub-frame was rausted so bad it was unsafe to drive and that it would cost $4600 to fix it. It seems to Me if You aknowledge a corrision problem in the front then You would accept responsibility for rear. Mazda said that They would have fixed it if the title were not branded ? It was wrecked in the front end and I replaced hood grille bumper lights etc and has nothing to do with the rear sub-frame. The Mazda Forum say's that it is shoddy workmanship. This car only has 147,000 miles on it and runs like a new car. I am a US army Vet 10 years) and am retired and cannot afford to fix this on My own and this is about doing what is right so I am asking You to help Me to get this problem fixed so I can drive this car. Thank You,

The rear subframe is corroded with rust to the point of about to break into pieces. I did not have control of the vehicle and could not drive above 40mph, sudden pull to one side while braking, loose steering. I could have had a wreck if the subframe would have broke before taking the vehicle in to be inspected by an independent service center. I live over an hour to the nearest Mazda dealership and the car is not drivable. No warning lamps came on and I first noticed the problems around January 11,2023. The part looks completely tissue thin all over and the rest of the components look new bolted to it. I do have pictures from the independent service center. I think the car needs to be seen by a regional service manager like a Mazda engineer. This is not just rust this is a defective part that was to thin to begin with.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the dashboard on the passenger’s side of the vehicle was melted, causing a glare on the windshield which obstructed the view of the contact while driving. The vehicle was taken to the dealer; however, the warranty had expired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 32,000.

Rear subframe is rotted

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle made abnormally loud sounds. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the rear cross members and brakes needed to be replaced. The dealer advised the contact to not drive the vehicle until the repairs were performed. The vehicle was then taken to an independent mechanic who replaced the brakes; however, the rear cross members were not replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 186,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the vehicle had previously been serviced at the dealer under NHTSA Campaign Number: 18V631000 (Suspension, Structure). The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, she lost control of the vehicle. The failure caused the passenger's side rear tire to rub on the fender while driving. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the passenger's side rear subframe was severely corroded and had fractured in half. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000.

Crossmember rust from recall campaign 2818I is able to effect structural attachment despite recall work. The recall installed an "improved: cross member. This was not an actually replacement cross member, rather additional plate steel between the rear and front of the existing attachment points of the defective OE cross member. Improved cross member contains no provisions to support rapidly corroding lower control arm attachment point in original cross member. Added member for recall also does not appear to additionally support lateral stresses from control arm. Evaluation of original cross-member seemed inadequate to detect structural integrity based on condition of the cross member today. "improved" cross member does not support mounting points of the control arm. Based on recall documents, some "improved" cross members have supports for Lower Control Arm (LCA) mounts. This issued occurred with sudden change in steering and braking characteristics. Vehicle suddenly started pulling right. Issue further exacerbated after follow on braking. Passenger wheel suddenly lost alignment and camber is indicating lower attachment geometry change. I was able to control vehicle, but with significant effort.

Car won't start due to PCM/TCM lost communication.

My front sub frame was completely rotted, unsafe to drive and was repaired with Mazda's recall. It now appears that the REAR sub frame is rusting at an excessive rate. I have been reading several complaints where the same incidents are happening with the rear sub frame snapping while people are driving. Car is not safe. This needs to be addressed by Mazda. They are aware of front sub frame, but failed to include the REAR sub frame. Not sure what to do at this point, it will costs thousands to repair, yet is NOT SAFE to drive. Please look into this matter as this is a very serious issue and will result in serious injury or death.

after exiting the highway at 65+mph turned the corner and the rear of the car dropped and started dragging the ground without warning . pulled over to see rear suspension on the ground .i contacted dealer about it and they seem to be aware of similar complaints but do not seem to care .could have been different outcome one minute earlier !! this is the second time the frame collapsed on me in this car the first time was the recall 2818l same thing broke without warning . this is bad metal in the frames and someone is gonna die before mazda admits the cars are unsafe as lots of these cars are still on the road .

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that the steering wheel was pulling without warning. There was rust on the frame. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the contact was informed that the vehicle was not safe to drive. The local dealer was contacted. The vehicle was diagnosed and repaired. Mechanic noted that Mazda’s recall repair only served to keep the car from splitting apart, but it in no way resolved the control arm issue. As a result my car was unexpectedly swerving all over the road and was difficult to control. It was with the control arm still somewhat attached, though extremely loose. The contact stated that the vehicle was previously repaired under NHTSA Campaign number 18V631000 (Suspension, structure). The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 151,000. Consumer stated there is significant rust on on side, where control arm attaches to steering. Vehicle has been repaired.

The wheels were turning in and the steering was really hard to keep straight had to turn the steering wheel almost half around car make Loud screaming noises.tires went flat ..i have 6 grandkids lucky I wasn't going fast the car could of flipped .subframe broke in half on passenger side rusted right out.i got this car from right way dealership in Saginaw Michigan in march of 2019 they never told me or never contacted me that there was a recall for the subframe breaking.could of killed someone!!!!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH, THE VEHICLE MADE AN ABNORMALLY LOUD SOUND BY THE PASSENGER'S SIDE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THE STEERING THEN BECAME DIFFICULT TO TURN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER BILL GATTON OF JOHNSON CITY MAZDA (2909 N. ROAN ST, JOHNSON CITY, TN 37601, (423) 418-6152) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH NEEDING THE SUBFRAME TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. UPON INVESTIGATION, THE CONTACT ASSOCIATED THE FAILURE WITH NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE) HOWEVER, THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS INFORMED OF FAILURE AND THE CONTACT WAS REFERRED TO NHTSA FOR ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 150,000.

DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT. IT'S NOT THE FUSE OR THE BULBS. THIS HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT FORCING ME TO DRIVE OVER TWO HOURS ON BACK ROADS AND FREEWAY WITH MY HIGHBEAMS ON TO SEE.

I purchased this vehicle for my 16 yr old daughter 1 yr ago. The car has a clean carfax and has had no accidents. Upon purchasing the car the headlights continue to burn out. Taking it to a Mazda dealership i learned the headlight assembly unit was melting. I had to purchase 2 used headlight assembly because new from the dealership are 1,000 a piece. 2 used but perfectly working headlights were installed and within a yr the headlights had burned out again. I went to change the bulbs only to learn the headlight assembly were once again burnt. I have to purchase 2 new headlight assembly again but the mechanic can not guarantee that this burning situation won't occur. After calling around to places to find headlight assembly I have come to find out many are burnt. This seems like a real problem considering you need headlights to drive at night. Spending 1,000 everytime my headlights burn out seems 100% unreasonable and the fact that there is cleary a wiring issue within the headlight assembly unit itself seems to be a problem. I have been on multiple forums and this is a common issue. Please fix the problem!!!!!!

THE DASH ON MY MAZDA IS MELTED. IT IS NOW CAUSING A BRIGHT SHEEN WHICH MAKES IT DIFFICULT TO SEE WHEN THE SUN HITS IT. THE DASH IS VERY STICKY AND STARTING TO SMELL LIKE BURNT PLASTIC. . I'VE CALLED MAZDA CUSTOMER SUPPORT AND THEY SAID THE DEFECTIVE PART IS COVERED UNTILL 2010, HOWEVER THEY SAID IT ENDED 4 MONTHS AGO. UNFORTUNATELY, COVID19 STOPPED ME FROM MAKING IT TO THE DEALERSHIP IN MARCH. MAZDA WOULD NOT GIVE ME AN EXTENSION DUE TO THE CURRENT COVID19 STAY AT HOME ORDER PLACED IN MY STATE

PASSENGER SIDE DASHBOARD HAS MELTED, CAUSING BLACK STICKY RESIDUE AND A VERY SHINY EFFECT, WHEN TRYING TO DRIVE, THE SUNLIGHT AND NIGHTTIME LIGHTS CAUSE A GLARE THAT IS VERY DISTRACTING WHEN TRYING TO DRIVE.

PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. IT'S NOT THE FUSE NOT THE BULB. THIS WAS WHILE DRIVING FORCING ME TO DRIVE WITH MY HIGHBEAMS ON SO I COULD SEE. *TR

I STARTED NOTICING CRACKS ON THE DASHBOARD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WHERE THE AIRBAG DEPLOYS. MY VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY WHEN I NOTICED THTHE CRACKS THE FOLLOWING MORNING. I AM CONCERNED THAT THE AIRBAG MIGHT ACCIDENTALLY GO OFF WITH THE SLIGHTEST VIBRATIONS OR CLOSING OF THE VEHICLE DOORS.

PAINT IS CHIPPING AWAY ON THE REAR OF THE CAR.

THE CRACK STARTED SMALL ON THE PASSENGER SIDE DASHBOARD BUT IS GETTING WORSE EVERYDAY. IT KEEPS GETTING BIGGER AND BIGGER

PASSENGER SIDE DASH STARTED MELTING ABOUT A YEAR AGO AND HAS GOTTEN SO BAD THE DASH IS ALMOST LIQUID. SUNLIGHT REFLECTS OFF THE SHINY MELTED DASH AND BLINDS THE DRIVER. I WAS IN AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE I COULDN'T SEE DUE TO LIGHT REFLECTING OFF MELTED DASH. DASH IS SO STICKY THAT YOU CANNOT TOUCH OR IT WILL STICK TO HANDS/ CLOTHING. I HAVE RUINED MULTIPLE ITEMS OF CLOTHING DUE TO THIS MESS.

YEARS OF UNEXPECTED BATTERY DRAIN AND ROUGH STARTS WHICH CAUSED SEVERAL OTHER ISSUES. DIFFERENT MECHANIC ADVISED OF A FAULTY BODY CONTROL MODULE BCM.

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY ⁃ MY VENT LINE WAS CLOGGED TO WHERE MY FUEL TANK CREATED A LEAK & THEN FUEL TANK COLLAPSED WHILE I WAS DRIVING . I DROVE MY CAR FOR 2 DAYS WITHOUT KNOWING & DID NOT REALIZE IT UNTIL I WAS FILLING UP GAS INTO MY CAR & I NOTICED THE GAS LEAKING PROFUSELY . I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP, IN WHICH I DISCOVERED THAT MY FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY WAS INSTALLED IMPROPERLY.

THE PASSENGER LOWER CONTROL ARM BROKE WHILE DRIVING, AND I LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. I ALMOST HIT A CAR COMING TOWARDS, BUT THANKFULLY I WAS ABLE TO STOP SINCE I WAS ONLY DOING 35 MPH. I DON'T KNOW WHAT WOULD HAVE HAPPENED IF I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY. THE MECHANIC SAID THE SUB-FRAME WAS COMPLETELY ROTTED OUT AND IT WAS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE ANYMORE. APPARENTLY, THE A/C IS DRAINING RIGHT ONTO THE CONTROL ARM AREA, WHICH MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE AFFECTED THE SITUATION.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF AN UNKNOWN RECALL REGARDING THE AIR BAGS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. HAMILTON MAZDA (2201 NJ-33, HAMILTON SQUARE, NJ 08690, (609) 587-7600) WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REMEDY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND WAS NOT ABLE TO CONFIRM WHEN THE PARTS WERE TO BECOME AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN.

MY VEHICLE IS AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION AND LAST WEEKEND I WAS DRIVING AT THE FREEWAY WITH MY FAMILY AT 70 MPH ON CRUISE AND ALL OF A SUDDEN WE GOT BIG JERK FROM MY VEHICLE AND THE VEHICLE RPM STARTED INCREASING THE SAME TIME FIRST I THOUGHT SOMEONE HIT ME FROM BACK BUT THE GLADLY THE VEHICLE WAS IN OTHER LANE AND HE HONKED AT ME. I THEN I SAW D LIGHT DISAPPEAR ON THE PANEL AND THE VEHICLE WAS IN VERY HIGH RPM MODE. I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IS HAPPENING I SAFELY TRIED TO PULL ON THE RIGHT AND STOPPED TO SEE WHATS WRONG BUT COULDN'T FOUND ANYTHING. I TURNED OFF VEHICLE FOR A MINUTE AND STARTED AGAIN. IT WORKED FINE FOR 5 MIN AND AS SOON AS I REACHED 55 OR 60 MPH THE D LIGHT STARTED BLINKING AGAIN AND AGAIN I GOT HIGH RPMS AND JERK. IT ALMOST HAD CAUSED THE ACCIDENT AS THE OTHER VEHICLE ALMOST HIT ME FROM THE BACK. IT FELT LIKE ENGINE BRAKING. THEN I DROVE VERY LOW SPPED ON INNER CITY ROAD WITH MY BLINKERS ON TO REACH HOME SAFELY. NOW DEALER IS TELLING ME THAT IT WILL COST ME MINIMUM $3000 TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION. I THINK ITS A KNOW ISSUE TO MAZDA AND THEY SHOULD FIX MY VEHICLE TRANSMISSION ATLEAST. THIS VEHICLE IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE.

I BOUGHT A MAZDA 6 3 DAYS AGO AND I REPLACED THE HEADLIGHT BULB BECAUSE IT WASN'T WORKING. WHEN I OPENED THE COMPARTMENT I NOTICED THAT THE ENTIRE U IT WAS MELTING AND SMELLED VERY HOT. I HAD NO TURNED ON THE HEADLIGHTS AT THIS POINT AND I REMOVED THE BULB FROM THE ELECTRICAL UNIT. THIS COULD HAVE EASILY CAUGHT ON FIRE.

WHILE MAKING A RIGHT TURN, I HIT THE BRAKES TO AVOID COLLIDING WITH SOMEONE WHO PULLED IN FRONT OF ME AND THE PASSENGER'S SIDE FRONT WHEEL LOCKED INTO A POSITION TURNED TO THE RIGHT. I HAD IT TOWED TO A REPAIR SHOP, WHERE I WAS INFORMED THAT THE CONTROL ARM HAD SEPARATED FROM THE FRAME DUE TO RUST. IT SEEMS THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE IN 2018 FOR CERTAIN STATES, AND WHILE I DO NOT CURRENTLY RESIDE IN ONE OF THE AFFECTED STATES, I USED TO AND MY CAR DID FOR MOST OF ITS LIFE.

WHEN MANEUVERING TO OR FROM PARKING WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED AND PUTS ANY PRESSURE ON THE STEERING COMPONENTS THE RIGHT FRONT OF THE CAR MAKES A VERY LOUD CLUNKING AND POPPING AND MAKES BOTH STEERING AND MOVING DIFFICULT. IT HAS GOTTEN PROGRESSIVELY WORSE OVER THE LAST 2 MONTHS SO I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND OUT ABOUT THE POSSIBLE CORROSION ISSUE OF THE FRONT RIGHT SUBFRAME AND RECALL "INSPECTION". I WILL CALL MY LOCAL DEALER AND SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT AS IT SEEMS THIS CAR IS UNDER AN OPEN RECALL AND WAS NEVER LOOKED AT. I JUST BOUGHT IT AS A USED CAR IN MID OCTOBER AND MOSTLY DRIVE MY TRUCK ALL WINTER SO IT TOOK AWHILE FOR THIS TO SURFACE.

LETTER FROM CONSUMER RE: FAIR AND EQUITABLE REIMBURSEMENT CUSTOMER TREATMENT ON 2010 MAZDA 6 RECALL REPAIR (DEFECT) NOT TOTALLY PAID FOR BY MAZDA WARRANTY DEPARTMENT. *AS *TR

CAR SYSTEM ALARM GOES OFF WITHOUT NOTICE. IT WILL WORK FINE FOR DAYS THEN, THE ALARM WILL START TO GO OFF CONSTANTLY. WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT, THE INTERIOR CAR LIGHTS COME ON LIKE A DOOR IS OPEN. NO INDICATOR ON CONTROL PANEL IF DOOR IS OPEN. THEN TURNS OFF LIGHTS INSIDE CAR. IT SCARES YOU AS YOU THINK A DOOR CAME OPEN

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE). THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. BROWN'S FAIRFAX MAZDA (10570 FAIRFAX BOULEVARD, FAIRFAX, VA 22030, (703) 385-8170) WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REMEDY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

I HAVE THE OPEN AND DANGEROUS RECALL ( # 2818I ) STILL PENDING AT THIS TIME. IT WAS HARD ENOUGH JUST TO GET THE DEALERSHIP, IN ORDER TO INSPECT THE CAR FOR CORROSION IN THE CONCERNING AREAS. I DON'T FEEL THAT THE CAR IS SAFE TO DRIVE AT THIS TIME AND PREFER THAT NO ONE RIDES WITH ME WHEN DRIVING IT, JUST FOR THE SAFETY OF OTHERS. I'M VERY CONCERNED THAT THIS FIX WILL NOT COME SOON ENOUGH AND THE PROBLEM KEEP MESSING UP MY CARS ALIGNMENT. CAUSING ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS DRIVING IT, ESPECIALLY AT HIGH SPEEDS. THAT'S WHEN A WHEEL WOBBLE STARTS TO HAPPEN IN THE AFFECTED AREAS OF THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR. PLEASE HELP!

MAZDA INCOMPLETE RECALL 28181; NHTSA RECALL 18V-631; I HAD MY VEHICLE INSPECTED AS REQUIRED AND WAS TOLD DUE TO RUST/CORROSION/PERFORATIONS THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. INFORMED NO PARTS AVAILABLE AND MAZDA HAS GIVEN NO INFO ON WHEN PARTS MAY BE AVAILABLE; DEALERS HAVE NO INFO AT ALL ON TIMING FOR REPAIRS; CANNOT GET THRU TO MAZDA FOR MORE INFO AND MAZDA DOES NOT EVEN LIST THIS ON THEIR SITE AS A RECALL; THIS IS A DANGEROUS CONDITION AND AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBERS: 18V717000 (AIR BAGS) AND 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE). THE CONTACT CALLED SENTRY WEST MAZDA AT 508-281-8171 (LOCATED AT 940 BOSTON TURNPIKE, SHREWSBURY, MA 01545) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH, A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD AND THE STEERING LOST POWER WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE SAME DEALER WHERE IT WAS STATED THAT THE RECALL REPAIRS NEEDED TO BE PERFORMED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 60,000. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V717000 (AIR BAGS) AND VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE).