2010 Mazda Mazda6 Complaint Log

The dashboard is sticky and shiny and the glare from the sun is terrible. It’s almost like the dashboard is “melting”

HEADLIGHT ON BOTH SIDES GO OUT OFTEN. AFTER HAVING THIS ISSUE FAR TOO MANY TIMES, I LOOKED ONLINE HOPING TO FIND A SOLUTION AND DISCOVERED MULTIPLE MAZDA OWNERS ARE HAVING SAME PROBLEM. ITS A MALFUNCTION IN THE MAZDA THAT NEEDS TO BE FIXED BY MAZDA. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AT NIGHT TO HAVE HAPPENING WAY TO OFTEN. AS FOR THE AIR BAG- IVE HAD MY MAZDA TO A MAZDA DEALERSHIP FOR THE RECALLS AND THE AIR BAG WAS KNE OF THEM. SINCE THEN, TWICE NOW, THE 'AIRBAG/FRONT SEAT BELT PRETENSIONER SYSTEM MALFUNCTION' LIGHT IS FLASHING WHILE DRIVING. I LOOKED IT UP, AND BY THE SOUNDS OF IT, MY AIRBAG IS MALFUNCTIONING?! ANOTHER DANGEROUS SITUATION ON THE MAZDA 6.

RIGHT FRONT HEADLAMP REPEATEDLY GOES OUT AND IT'S NEITHER THE BULB NOR THE FUSE! SUBSEQUENTLY STUCK DRIVING HOME WITH HIGH BEAMS (TO SEE WELL ENOUGH TO NAVIGATE SAFELY) BUT FEARFUL THE GLARE CREATES A SAFETY ISSUE FOR OPPOSING TRAFFIC - A TWOFER! NOTE; BANGING ON THE SIDE OF HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY WITH CLOSED FIST 'SOMETIMES' HAS IT COME BACK TO LIFE. LOOKED ONLINE AND - SURPRISE, SURPRISE - THERE ARE LOTS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME THING! SADLY, I'M AFRAID SOMEONE'S GOING TO GET KILLED AND I JUST HOPE NOT TO BE INVOLVED. PLEASE READ WHAT OTHERS SAY ABOUT THIS HERE; HTTP://WWW.CARPROBLEMZOO.COM/MAZDA/MAZDA6/HEADLIGHTS-PROBLEMS.PHP . . . AND MANY MORE COMPLAINTS ON YOUTUBE

MY MAZDA WAS RECALLED DUE TO AIR BAG INFLATOR THAT COULD EXPLODE RESULTING IN SHARP METAL FRAGMENTS STRIKING THE PASSENGER OR OTHER VEHICLE OCCUPANTS. WHEN I CALLED MY MAZDA DEALER TO GET IT IN TO BE FIXED I WAS TOLD THE PARTS ARE ON BACK ORDER AT MAZDA AND THEY COULD NOT GIVE ME AN ETA ON WHEN THEY WOULD GET PARTS IN. HOW CAN MAZDA ALLOW IT'S CUSTOMERS TO CONTINUE DRIVING THEIR CAR WITH NO RECOURSE TO GIVE US A RENTAL CAR IN THE MEANTIME IF THEY CAN'T FIX AN ISSUE THAT I WOULD CONSIDER EXTREMELY SERIOUS AND NEEDING TO BE FIXED IMMEDIATELY? MY WIFE IS PREGNANT AND WE HAVE A TODDLER WHO RIDES IN A CARSEAT IN THE BACKSEAT AND WE NOW FEEL UNSAFE TO DRIVE OUR CAR. I WOULD EXPECT THIS MATTER TO BE TAKEN MUCH MORE SERIOUSLY THAN IT IS. I'M VERY DISAPPOINTED IN MAZDA AND THE WAY THIS RECALL IS BEING HANDLED.

WHILE APPLYING THE BRAKES AT APPROXIMATELY 30MPH, THERE WAS SHARP JOLT, AND THE STEERING WHEEL JERKED ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT. THE LOW-TRACTION INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR WAS NOT ABLE TO BE SAFELY STEERED. UPON VISUAL INSPECTION, THE FRONT RIGHT TIRE WAS TURNED OUTWARD, WHILE THE FRONT LEFT REMAINED STRAIGHT. A MECHANIC CONFIRMED THAT THE ISSUE WAS CAUSED BY A FULLY CORRODED SUB-FRAME WHICH HAD CRACKED IN HALF.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS EXTENSIVE RUST AND CORROSION ON THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V631000 (SUSPENSION, STRUCTURE). THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MCDONALD MAZDA (10345 W COLFAX AVE, LAKEWOOD, CO 80215, (720) 449-9900) WHERE THE CROSS MEMBER WAS INSPECTED, BUT THEY REFUSED TO INSTALL A SIDE MEMBER (FOR REINFORCEMENT). THE DEALER ALSO HAD NOT REPLACED THE AIR CONDITIONER DRAIN HOSE AND NO RUST PROOFING WAS APPLIED TO THE CROSS MEMBER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED DUE TO NON-COMPLIANCE OF THE DEALER AND THE MANUFACTURER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT BEING DRIVEN. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 103,981. *BF CONSUMER STATED UPON SEEING THE UNDERSIDE OF THE VEHICLE I IMMEDIATEDLY NOTICED CORROSION COVERING LARGE PORTIONS OF THE CROSS MEMBER. THERE WERE SEVERAL CORRODED MOUNTING HOLES AND LARGE WELDS THAT HAD SIGNS OF ADVANCED DECAY. THE DAMAGE WAS OBVIOUS AND I TOOK SEVERAL PICTURES AND RECORDED A VIDEO SHOWING THE WIDESPEAD CORROSION. 'PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).'*JB

THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND THE SUB FRAME HAS COMPLETELY RUSTED OUT, DEEMING THE CAR UNFIT TO DRIVE. THIS WAS ONLY CAUGHT AS I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR ESTIMATE ON BRAKES. I HAVE 2 YOUNG CHILDREN WHO RIDE IN THIS CAR DAILY, SO LUCKILY NO ACCIDENT. I'VE NOTICED SEVERAL COMPLAINTS REGARDING THIS ON THE 2009 AND 2010 MODELS. ALTHOUGH I HAVEN'T BEEN IN ACCIDENT (YET), I'M NOW FORCED TO PAY $2000 IN REPAIRS, OR JUST REPLACE THE VEHICLE.

The dasboard on the rite side is melting, causing a sicky like surface and is reflecting the light on to the driver, making it hard to drive.

MY SON WAS DRIVING THE CAR APPROXIMATELY 40MPH ON A STATE ROUTE IN A RURAL AREA AND EXPERIENCED A SUDDEN LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL AND SHARP PULL TO THE RIGHT WHEN HE WAS TRYING TO BRAKE. THIS NEARLY CAUSED HIM TO HIT A TRUCK. WHEN HE REGAINED CONTROL HE NOTICED THE STEERING WHEEL WAS NOT ALIGNED WHILE GOING STRAIGHT AND THE CAR CONTINUED TO PULL TO THE RIGHT. WHEN HE MANAGED TO MAKE IT HOME WE JACKED IT UP AND REMOVED THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. I NOTICED THAT THE CROSS MEMBER ON THE RIGHT SIDE WAS COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH. THIS WAS THE ONLY NOTICIBLY LARGE AREA OF RUST ON THE CAR. THE CAR IS NOW UNDRIVEABLE.

WHILE PERFORMING MAINTENANCE ON 2010 MAZDA 6 IT WAS OBSERVED THERE WAS EXTENSIVE CORROSION TO THE FRONT SUBFRAME. IT IS VERY NEAR STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS AND HAD THE FRAME FAILED WHILE DRIVING IT LIKELY WOULD HAVE RESULTED IN LACK OF CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. PICTURE IS ATTACHED.

ON SEPTEMBER 12, 2018 I TOOK MY 2010 MAZDA 6I TO A LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP TO GET PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE DONE ON THE VEHICLE, REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT. WHEN THE MAZDA TECH STARTED THE JOB, HE DISCOVERED THAT THE ENTIRE FRONT SUB-FRAME THAT HOLDS THE FRONT END SUSPENSION, STEERING COMPONENTS, MOTOR AND TRANSMISSION WAS RUSTED AND ROTTED OUT WITH SEVERAL HOLES AND FLAKING METAL. THE TECH WAS UNABLE TO PERFORM THE JOB AS HE STATED HE COULD NOT REMOVE THE SUB-FRAME AND KEEP IT IN TACT. THE TECH REPORTED THAT THIS CREATED A HAZARDOUS AND UNSAFE CONDITION AND THAT UNTIL REPAIRED WITH A NEW OR OTHER-WISE IN-TACT SUB-FRAME THE CAR WOULD BE UNSAFE TO DRIVE. UPON CHECKING ON-LINE I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS QUICKLY BECOMING A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE MAZDA 6 OF THIS MODEL YEAR (2009 TO 2019). THE SUB-FRAME SHOULD NOT BE THAT ROTTED OUT IN A 2010 VEHICLE WITH 101921 MILES ON IT AND NO RUST ON THE BODY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE STEERING WHEEL STARTED TO PULL TO THE RIGHT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DETERMINED THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE SUBFRAME WAS SEVERELY CORRODED AND FLAKY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200,00. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

AS I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE MY STEERING WHEEL ROTATED CLOCKWISE AND WAS AT AN ANGLE AND MY CAR CONTINUED TO GO STRAIGHT DOWN THE ROAD. IT FELT AS IF I WERE DRIVING ON ICE AND WAS VERY HARD TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE. WHILE MAKING A TURN MY FRONT TIRES BEGAN TO SQUEAL. IT WAS VERY HARD TO TURN. WHEN BRAKING THE CAR SHOOK DRAMATICALLY. I TOOK IT TO A LOCAL AUTO MECHANIC BECAUSE I THOUGHT IT WAS POSSIBLY SOMETHING WITH THE STEERING. THE MECHANIC CALLED BACK AND WAS SHOCKED TO TELL ME THE SUB FRAME WAS COMPLETELY ROTTEN AND HAD BROKEN. IT WAS HARD FOR HIM TO BELIEVE THAT A CAR THAT WAS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD WOULD HAVE THAT MUCH CORROSION ON THE FRAME. I PURCHASED THE CAR BRAND NEW AND HAVE HAD THE CAR FOR THE ENTIRE 8 YEARS WITH NO ACCIDENTS AT ALL.

AFTER EXITING THE HIGHWAY APPLIED TH BRAKES AND STEERING WHEEL WENT TO 12:00 AND 6:00 WHILE THE CAR KEPT GOING STRAIGHT .APPLY THE GAS AND WHEEI GOES BACK TO NORMAL .HIT THE BRAKES AND REPEAT THE CYCLE AGAIN ..TOOK TO DEALERSHIP TO FIND OUT RT. FRONT SUBFRAME IS RUSTED THRU .. CAR IS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AND IS PARKED AT MONTROSE MAZDA IN KENT OHIO .NEW FRAME AND LABOR IS 2,000.00 AND PARTS ARE BACKORDERED TELLING ME OTHERS HAVE TO BE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES .. WHO ORDERS A NEW FRAME FOR THEIR CAR ? CAR WAS JUST AT HIGHWAY SPEED AND THEN LOST COMPLERE CONTROL OF CAR .GLAD NO ONE WAS HURT

WHILE DRIVING STRAIGHT WHEEL IS AT 12:00 AND 6:00 AND CAR IS GOING STRAIGHT ..FOUND AT DEALERSHIP THAT RT.FRONT SUB-FRAME RUSTED THRU ..CAR IS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AND NEW FRAMES ARE BACKORDERED EVEN JUNKYARDS ARE OUT ..HAD TO RENT AND BUY A NEW CAR

8/11/2018WHILE MERGING FROM ROUTE 9 ONTO ROUTE 95, I HEARD A CLANK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY CAR, DIDN'T THINK SINCE DRIVING THROUGH DEEP FLOODING FROM CURRENT RAINSTORM. WAS ON I-95 WHEN STEERING SEEMED TO GO, VEER TO THE RIGHT AND BRAKES NOT CATCHING. WAS ABLE TO GET OFF HIGHWAY, REGAINED CONTROL OF CAR, WENT TO MY DESTINATION ON RTE 109. DROVE, PUMPED BREAKS SINCE I THOUGHT THE PROBLEM WAS FLOODING & WET BRAKES. LEFT TO GO TO NEXT DESTINATION & STEERING WAS OFF, SO DROVE VERY SLOWLY (STEERING OFF & HAD TO KEEP TURNING TO THE LEFT) ONCE AGAIN THINKING WEATHER RELATED. EXITED 95 TO SPRAUGE ST. DEDHAM WHERE BRAKES WEREN'T WORKING WELL, DROVE TO FRIENDS IN AREA AND AS I DROVE DOWN HILL, CAR LOST STEERING AND I LANDED UP CURB, BRAKES WEREN'T WORKING, PUT ON EMERGENCY BRAKE & FINALLY STOPPED. FRIENDS HOUSE WAS AROUND THE CORNER SO ROLLED DOWN HILL TO HER HOUSE TO LET CAR DRY AS STILL THOUGHT IT WAS FROM FLOODING. LEFT HER HOUSE AFTER AN HOUR, DROVE TWO BLOCKS AND CAR COMPLETELY LOST ALL STEERING, LIGHTS ON DASHBOARD STARTED FLASHING, BRAKES WENT. CALLED AAA AND WAS TOWED TO STEVE'S SERVICE STATION WHERE ON MONDAY THE CAR WAS DEEMED "TOTALED". THE ENTIRE SUB-CARRIAGE WAS COVERED IN RUST & CORROSION, THERE WERE HOLES, PIECES OF METAL FROM THE CAR MISSING AND MAJOR CRACKS ALL UNDERNEATH AND ENCASING THE BRAKES AND OTHER PART OF CAR. WAS TOLD IF I HAD GONE A BIT FASTER ON 95, BOTTOM WOULD HAVE FALLEN LEADING TO SERIOUS ACCIDENT. NOTE: THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS WITH MAZDA6 AND MAZDA HAS DONE NOTHING. I CANNOT RECEIVE FINANCIAL COMPENSATION FROM INSURANCE SINCE IS CORROSION AND NOT COLLISION THAT CAUSED THE PROBLEMS. FINANCIAL DISASTER. 47K MILES, ONE OWNER CAR. CONSULTS FROM MECHANICS SAID THEY HAVE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THIS ON 8 YR OLD CAR. APPRAISER SAID MAZDA KNOWN FOR RUST PROBLEMS - GAVE ME WEBSITES TO RESEARCH TO ASSIST. PLEASE HELP!

CORROSION RELATED STEERING ISSUES. THE FRAME OF THE CAR HAS RUSTED OUT WHERE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM ON THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE CONNECTS TO THE FRAME. WHILE COMING TO A QUICK STOP THE ABS KICKED IN AND THE CAR PULLED TO THE RIGHT WITH A POPPING SOUND. THE CAR WOULD RANDOMLY PULL TO ONE SIDE WHEN DRIVING RESUMED. TOOK THE CAR IN FOR NEW BRAKES AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE FRAME HAS RUSTED OUT. FINDING OTHER LIKE CONCERNS I TOOK THE CAR TO MAZDA WITH NO COMMUNICATION REGARDING THE STATUS OF MY VEHICLE. THE CAR IS 8 YEARS OLD AND SHOULD NOT HAVE FRAME RUST TO THE POINT OF FAILURE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA6. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THEIR VEHICLE'S DASHBOARD WAS STICKY AND HAD AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF GLARE FROM SUNLIGHT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE GLARE MADE IT DIFFICULT TO SEE WHEN DRIVING. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DASHBOARD WAS FRACTURED ON THE PASSENGER'S SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT CONTACTED THE DEALER FITZGERALD MAZDA OF ANNAPOLIS (1930 WEST ST, ANNAPOLIS, MD 21401, (410) 266-5700) WHO INFORMED THE CONTACT THE DASHBOARD NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 57,000.

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT 70 MPH WHEN ALL OF THE SUDDEN THE CAR VEERED TO THE RIGHT CAUSING HER TO GO INTO THE RIGHT LANE AS SHE WAS IN THE LEFT LANE. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS BESIDE HER AND SHE WAS ABLE TO KEEP THE CAR UNDER CONTROL. SHE STOPPED AND CALLED ME AS I WAS AT WORK TO EXPLAIN WHAT HAD HAPPENED. SHE WAS JUST A FEW MILES AWAY FROM THE EXIT IN WHICH WE LIVE JUST OFF THE INTERSTATE SO SHE WAS ABLE TO LIMP THE CAR HOME. LATER THAT EVENING WHEN I WENT TO LOOK AT IT I NOTICED IMMEDIATELY THAT THE PASSENGER TIRE WAS POINTING OUTWARD A LITTLE BIT. I JACKED THE CAR UP LOOKING TO SEE IF A TIE ROD OR CONTROL ARM HAD BROKE ONLY TO FIND THAT NEITHER HAD BROKE. I LOOKED AT THE FRAME AND SEEN HOW BADLY IT WAS RUSTED AND NOTICED IT ACTUALLY HAD BROKEN APART AND WAS SHIFTED. THIS AREA OF THE SUBFRAME IS DIRECTLY UNDER THE A/C UNIT WHICH DRIPS STRAIGHT DOWN ONTO THE FRAME AREA THAT IS ROTTED. WHICH IS OBVIOUSLY THE REASON THE THE FRAME RUSTED AND BROKE AND SHIFTED CAUSING THE TIRE TO POINT OUTWARD. CALLED MAZDA AND THEY SENT A TOW TRUCK TO RETRIEVE THE CAR. CURRENTLY WAITING ON THEIR INSPECTION AND A CALL FROM MAZDA CORP TO SEE IF THEY WILL BE COVERING THE REPAIR. AFTER READING EVERYONE ELSE'S ISSUES WITH THIS VERY SAME PROBLEM I'M ASSUMING MAZDA WILL TELL ME IT'S OUR PROBLEM. THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND I'VE SEEN OTHER'S WHO'S CAR ARE EVEN NEWER AND MAZDA IS TELLING EVERYONE IT'S NOT DEFECTIVE. I STRONGLY DISAGREE WITH IT NOT BEING A MANUFACTURED DEFECT WHEN CLEARING THE WATER FROM THE A/C DRIPPING DOWN IS CAUSING ALL THESE SUBFRAMES TO RUST MUCH FASTER THAN ANY OTHER PART OF THE FRAME. WE'LL SEE WHAT THEY SAY BUT I'M NOT HOLDING MY BREATH.... SEEMS AS THOUGH WE THE PEOPLE NEED TO BAND TOGETHER IN A CLASS ACTION AGAINST MAZDA BECAUSE THIS CLEARLY IS A PROBLEM FOR A LOT OF CONSUMERS. PRAY NO ONE EVER GETS KILLED DO TO LOSS OF CONTROL WHEN THE FRAMES DO BRK.

WHEN DRIVING HOME FROM THE GYM, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY BECAME DIFFICULT TO CONTROL AND THERE WAS AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF PLAY IN THE STEERING WHEEL. AFTER INSPECTING, MY HUSBAND BELIEVES THE CAUSE IS DUE TO FRAME CORROSION AT THE STEERING RACK MOUNT WHICH APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN REPORTED BY OTHER 2009 2010 MAZDA 6 OWNERS..

WHILE DRIVING ON TOWN ROADS AND AROUND A TRAFFIC CIRCLE A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD FROM THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. I ATTEMPTED TO PULL INTO A NEARBY GAS STATION BUT THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STEER TO THE LEFT ENOUGH TO ENTER THE PARKING LOT. I MANAGED TO PULL INTO ANOTHER LOT A SHORT DISTANCE DOWN THE STREET ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE. I INSPECTED THE UNDER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND DISCOVERED THE FRONT SUB-FRAME HAD RUSTED THROUGH TO THE POINT OF FAILURE. THIS FAILURE ALLOWED THE COMPLETE FRONT LEFT WHEEL/SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY TO MOVE ABOUT FREELY UNDER THE CAR.

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK, WHEN I NOTICED THAT MY STEERING WAS NOT WORKING RIGHT. EVERY TIME I HIT A BUMP IN THE ROAD IT BECAME HARD TO CONTROL. TO STAY STRAIGHT, MY STEERING WHEEL HAD TO BE TURN ALMOST COMPLETELY LEFT. I FIGURED I WAS JUST BADLY OUT OF ALIGNMENT. I TOOK IT TO THE SHOP TO GET MY ALIGNMENT DONE, AND THEY TOLD ME THE SUB FRAME WAS ROTTED OUT. THE CAR IS ONLY 8 YEARS OLD AND WELL MAINTAINED. HE WAS NOT ABLE TO EXPLAIN WHY IT WAS ROTTED OUT, BUT THE REST OF THE UNDERNEATH LOOKED GOOD.

THE FRAME ON MY VEHICLE SPECIALLY THE 'CRADLE' ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FAILED WHILE BRAKING. SPECIFICALLY THE ''CRADLE' IS RUSTED AND SPLIT ALMOST ALL THE WAY THROUGH. THE VEHICLE IS NOW UNDRIVABLE. IT IS A SEVERE SAFETY RISK

HEARD A KNOCK WHILE DRIVING (AS THOUGH HITTING POTHOLE). NEXT DAY STEERING COLUMN FELT LOOSE, BREAKS SEEMED WORN AND SOUND ON SHARP TURNS. LATER THAT DAY WHILE DRIVING IN CITY, WENT OVER A NORMAL DIP IN THE ROAD AND HEARD A CRACK/LOUDER KNOCK. WHEEL TURNED TO THE LEFT, EVEN THOUGH DRIVING STRAIGHT. WHEN APPLYING BRAKES, WHEEL NOW TURNED TO THE RIGHT. PULLED ASIDE AND RAN OVER CURB AS BRAKES WERE NOT AS EFFECTIVE. INITIAL DIAGNOSIS: BRAKES AND BEARINGS NEED REPAIR (ALTHOUGH THESE WERE REPLACED LESS THAN 5 MONTHS AGO). NEXT DIAGNOSIS: SUBFRAME PSG. SIDE COMPLETELY ROTTED AND CRACKED. WILL TAKE A MONTH TO REPAIR [RENTAL PROVIDED]. NOTE- THE PAST 6 MONTHS I'VE HAD OTHER ISSUES INCLUDING: ELECTRICAL (FUSE FOR RADIO/LOCKS/INT LIGHTS KEEPS BREAKING; AFTER 1.5 HOUR DIAGNOSTIC CAUSE STILL UNKNOWN. CHOSE TO REPLACE FUSE AS NEEDED- WEEKLY TO MONTHLY); 3 TIRES HAVE GONE (EVEN THOUGH 2 WERE FAIRLY NEW; NEEDED ALIGNMENT); BRAKES AND BEARINGS TWICE. COULD BE REGULAR WEAR AND TEAR OR COULD BE RELATED.

FRONT SUBFRAME CORROSION. WE WERE FORTUNATE IN THAT WE NOTICED THE CAR PULLING TO THE RIGHT, SLOWED DOWN, HEARD A "POP" AND LOST CONTROL OF STEERING BUT WE WERE GOING SLOW PULLED OVER AND TOWED TO GARAGE. THE PART HAS A 3 WEEK DELIVERY TIME AND THE PRICE HAS RECENTLY DOUBLED FROM 600.00 TO 1,200.00 IN THE FEW DAYSOUR MECHANIC CALLED TO GET. THIS SEEMSTO BE A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE BUT NO RECALL.

I WAS ON A CITY STREET TRAVELLING AROUND 35 MPH. WHILE APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT AND APPLYING THE BRAKES THE CAR SUDDENLY STARTED PULLING TO THE RIGHT AND ALMOST PULLED THE ENTIRE VEHICLE INTO A DITCH. THE VEHICLE CAME TO A STOP AT THE EDGE OF THE GRASS. I PULLED THE VEHICLE OVER FURTHER TO AVOID TRAFFIC AND NOTICED THE RIGHT TIRE WAS NOW TOUCHING THE WHEEL WELL. AFTER HAVING THE VEHICLE TOWED THE MECHANIC INFORMED ME THAT THERE WAS EXTENSIVE CORROSION UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE WHICH HAD LED TO THE FAILURE.

AT TAKE OFFS, MY WHEELS SPIN LIKE THERE IS NO TRACTION AND I FEEL LIKE I HAVE NO CONTROL OVER MY CAR. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING, I'VE HAD TO EXAGGERATE THE TURNING OF MY STEERING WHEEL TO CHANGE LANES, WHILE PARKED AND PULLING OUT OF A PARKING SPOT, WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING BROKE(CRACKING). THIS ALSO BRINGS UP THE BRAKES ISSUE. I ALMOST T-BONED SOMEONE THAT RAN A RED LIGHT AND STOPPED IN THE INTERSECTION. I HAD TIME TO STOP BUT MY BRAKES DIDN'T ALLOW TRACTION FOR MY TIRES TO STOP AND I WAS ABLE TO TURN MY STEERING WHEEL ENOUGH TO SWERVE TOWARB THE BACK OF HER TRUCK AND MISS HER.

WHEN PERFORMING AN OIL CHANGE I NOTICED THAT THE SUBFRAME / ENGINE CRADLE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE NEAR THE RIGHT SUSPENSION WAS SEVERELY RUSTED. THE SUBFRAME IS NO LONGER STRUCTURALLY SOUND AND I HAVE PARKED THE VEHICLE UNTIL A REPAIR IS COMPLETED. THE VEHICLE IS NO LONGER SAFE TO BE ON THE ROAD. THE SEVERE CORROSION APPEARS TO BE ISOLATED TO THE RIGHT SIDE WITH THE REST OF THE SUBFRAME SHOWING SURFACE CORROSION NORMALLY SEEN IN AN AREA THAT USES ROAD SALT SUCH AS MINNESOTA. I BELIEVE THAT THE CAUSE OF THIS FAILURE IS THE AIR CONDITIONING EVAPORATOR DRAIN DRIPPING ON THE SUBFRAME. AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE ATTACHED PICTURES THERE IS NO DRAIN HOSE USED TO DIVERT THE WATER FROM THE EVAPORATOR AROUND THE FRAME AND OVERBOARD. THIS MOISTURE MIXED WITH THE ROAD SALT CREATED A DANGEROUS AMOUNT OF CORROSION ON A KEY STRUCTURAL COMPONENT. I AM GLAD I NOTICED THIS BEFORE AN ACCIDENT OCCURRED

ON AM OF 06/08/2018, I FELT SOMETHING GIVE IN FRONT END - FELT LIKE A BROKEN STRUT INITIALLY. DRIVING HOME AT 55-60 MPH THAT AFTERNOON, CAR BECAME NOTICEABLY DIFFICULT TO CONTROL - PULLING HARD TO THE RIGHT WHICH CAUSED AUDIBLE METALLIC SCRAPING NOISES FROM INSIDE CAR AND REQUIRED ME TO KEEP STEERING WHEEL TURNED LEFT AT 30-45 DEGREES IN ORDER TO MAINTAIN STRAIGHT LINE. CAR WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO TURN OR KEEP UNDER CONTROL. MADE IT TO FAMILY MEMBER'S HOUSE NEAR MY MECHANIC, AND MADE ARRANGEMENTS TO DROP CAR OFF. ON 06/12/2018, MECHANIC CALLED TO INFORM ME THAT RIGHT FRONT SUBFRAME/ENGINE CRADLE WAS RUSTED THROUGH TO THE POINT THAT IT HAD CRACKED. HE WAS SHOCKED THAT IT DIDN'T FAIL CATASTROPHICALLY AT SPEED ON HIGHWAY. MAZDA DEALER ADVISED TO CALL MAZDA DIRECTLY TO FILE COMPLAINT. MECHANIC COULD NOT FIND A USED/SALVAGED CRADLE TO MAKE REPAIRS AND MAZDA DEALER INFORMED HIM THAT A CRADLE THEY ORDERED IN DECEMBER 2017 HAD JUST ARRIVED IN MAY 2018 - QUOTED PRICE TO REPAIR WAS ROUGHLY $1,600 PARTS/$1,000+ LABOR. CAR WAS BOUGHT NEW IN SEPTEMBER 2010 AND HAS JUST SHY OF 84,000 MILES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. AFTER BEING STOPPED BY A POLICE OFFICER, THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE RED REFLECTOR LENS IN THE TAIL LAMPS WERE MISSING. UPON INSPECTING THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT BECAME AWARE THAT THE TAIL LIGHT BULBS WERE EXTREMELY HOT, WHICH CAUSED THE REFLECTORS TO SEPARATE FROM THE TAIL LIGHT HOUSINGS. THE DEALER (MAZDA OF JACKSON, 5397 INTERSTATE 55 NORTH FRONTAGE RD, JACKSON, MS 39206, (601) 991-2222) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS ALSO NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 160,000.

I'D LIKE TO REPORT MY OBSERVATION IN REGARDS TO THE FOLLOWING INVESTIGATION: PE18006 UPON PERFORMING ROUTINE MAINTENANCE I OBSERVED HEAVY CORROSION OF THE SUBFRAME OF MY VEHICLE HEAVILY CONCENTRATED TOWARDS THE REAR ENDS OF SAID SUBFRAME. THE DAMAGE IS LARGELY CONCENTRATED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE SUB FRAME BUT BOTH DRIVE AND PASSENGER SIDES ARE IN VARYING STATES OF CORROSION. I CAN CONTRIBUTE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION UPON REQUEST BUT I WANTED TO ADD TO THE ON-GOING INVESTIGATION THAT HEAVY CORROSION TO THE POINT OF ME QUESTIONING THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF SAID SUBFRAME IS FOR SURE AN ISSUE I'M EXPERIENCING. I HAVE NOT CHECKED THE WELDS TO THE VARIOUS SUSPENSION COMPONENTS ATTACHED TO SUB FRAME BUT THE PINCH WELDS ALONG THE INTERIOR EDGE OF THE SUB FRAME HAVE BEEN COMPROMISED ALLOWING THE INGRESS OF ADDITIONAL WATER WHICH I BELIEVE IS ACCELERATING THIS ISSUE. THE WHOLE LOWER SURFACE OF THE SUB FRAME TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE SUB FRAME HAS BEGUN CORRODING AS WELL AND THE PAINT COVERING THE SUB FRAME HAS BUBBLED UP OR SEPARATED ALONG THE EDGE OF THE CORROSION.

AIR CONDITIONER DRIPS ON TO ENGINE CRADLE RESULTING IN ROT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. WHILE TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL IN EITHER DIRECTION, A POPPING NOISE WAS HEARD FROM THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE POPPING NOISE WAS MORE AUDIBLE WHEN MAKING LEFT TURNS AND WHILE TURNING WITH THE TRANSMISSION IN REVERSE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, BUT NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

NOTICED A KNOCKING NOISE DEVELOPING IN FRONT PASSENGER SIDE. TOOK THE CAR TO A LOCAL GARAGE TO HAVE IT CHECKED OUT AND TO GET NEW TIRES AND ALIGNMENT. I WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE SUB-FRAME WAS ROTTED OUT AND THE CAR WAS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE. CONTACTED MAZDA FOR NEW SUB-FRAME AND WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE PART HAS BEEN ON BACK ORDER FOR 6 MONTHS AND THEY HAD NO IDEA WHEN THEY WOULD BE AVAILABLE. NOW I AM STUCK WITH AN 8 YEAR OLD CAR THAT IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE WITH NO HOPE FOR REPAIR.

LOW BEAM INTERMITTENTLY TURNS OFF. SOMETIMES A FIRM SLAP ON THE HEADLIGHT IS A TEMPORARY RESOLUTION. I INITIALLY THOUGHT IT WAS THE BULB ITSELF, HAD IT REPLACED BUT THE PROBLEM CONTINUED. THERE ARE LOTS OF YOUTUBE VIDEOS ON THIS ISSUE. MAZDA KEEPS TELLING THAT THIS IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE AND THEY REFUSE TO DO ANYTHING. IF THEY WANT TO DO BUSINESS IN THE USA, THEY NEED TO BE SAFE OR THEY NEED TO GO BACK TO WHERE THEY BELONG. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN HAPPENING SINCE 2014 (I BOUGHT THIS CAR IN 2013)

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH, THE DOOR AJAR WARNING INDICATOR AND THE DOME LIGHT ILLUMINATED INDEPENDENTLY. THE CONTACT COASTED THE VEHICLE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND NOTICED THAT ALL THE DOORS WERE CLOSED. IN ADDITION, WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT TURNED OFF THE ENGINE, RESTARTED THE VEHICLE, AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED THREE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING OR REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

LOW BEAM INTERMITTENTLY TURNS OFF. SOMETIMES A FIRM SLAP ON THE HEADLIGHT IS A TEMPORARY RESOLUTION. I INITIALLY THOUGHT IT WAS THE BULB ITSELF, HAD IT REPLACED BUT THE PROBLEM CONTINUED. THERE ARE LOTS OF YOUTUBE VIDEOS ON THIS ISSUE. MAZDA KEEPS TELLING THAT THIS IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE AND THEY REFUSE TO DO ANYTHING. IF THEY WANT TO DO BUSINESS IN THE USA, THEY NEED TO BE SAFE OR THEY NEED TO GO BACK.

Mazda issued a extended warranty for sticky dash board and supposedly mailed notices to owners. I never received one and dispute the fact they mailed it to all owners. The sticky dash repair should be issued as a recall as it presents a significant safety issue. The sticky dash is so shiny that it reflects sun into driver’s eyes and should be considered a significant safety issue. I request the NHTSA to mandate Mazda to make the sticky dash repair a recalled issue versus allowing them to issue a extended warranty. I never got the notice and the issue existed within the warranty period. In addition, what happens if the issue arises after the warranty period. This sticky dash is a defect in the manufacturing of the vehicle and presents a significant safety issue to drivers as it impacts their road visibility, which may lead to increased accidents. Please have Mazda issue a recall on the sticky dash repair due to the manufacturer’s defect. Thank you.

THE PASSENGER AIRBAG WARNING IS ALWAYS GOING ON WHEN I AM IN A PARKED POSITION.

2010 MAZDA 6 ISPORT PASSENGER DASHBOARD CRASH PAD HAS BEEN MELTING PROGRESSIVELY FOR ABOUT 2 YEARS. ONLY BEGAN NOTICING THE DASH MELTING UPON MY MOVE TO HAWAII, SO I ASSUME IT IS A RESULT OF SUBPAR PARTS AND THE HOT/HUMID CLIMATE. THIS APPEARS TO BE COMMON WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL, BASED ON RESEARCH INTO THE ISSUE.

TAKATA RECALL, MY ALARM KEEPS GOING OFF RANDOMLY ALL THROUGHOUT THE DAY EACH DAY. THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT TO STOP IS DISCONNECTING MY BATTERY WHILE I'M NOT DRIVING IT WHICH IS NOT A VIABLE OPTION. MY PASSENGER AIRBAG PROTECTOR IS ALSO MELTING. FURTHERMORE, I HAD TO REPLACE BRAKE ROTORS BEFORE 100,000 MILES WAS REACHED BECAUSE MY CAR WOULD SHAKE UNCONTROLLABLY AT ANY SORT OF BRAKING SPEED

AFTER CONNECTING SEARBELT AND MOVING IN TRAFFIC THE SEAT BEGINS TO MOVE BECAUSE SEAT BELT IS HOOKED ON THE LEVER THAT MOVES THE SEAT INTO RECLINING POSITION, VERY DANGEROUS WHEN IN TRAFFIC AND TRYING TO REACH BREAK, GAS, ETC. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON MANY OCCASSIONS AND TAKES ME BY SURPRISE EVERY TIME.

TAKATA RECALL

DASH IS STICKY AND SHINY, LOOKS LIKE SOMETHINK INSIDE THE PASSENGER SIDE OF DASH IS MELTING

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V429000 (AIR BAGS); HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE RECALL REPAIR WAS NOT YET AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. MIDLANDS MAZDA OF COLUMBIA (655 BROAD RIVER RD, COLUMBIA, SC 29210, (803) 988-1000) WAS CONTACTED, BUT WAS UNABLE TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE DUE TO THE PARTS NOT BEING AVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT. *BF CONSUMER STATED PARTS TO FIX THIS RECALL ARE NOT YET AVAILABLE. UPDATED 7/24/18*JB *TR

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MZ6. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V429000 (AIR BAGS); HOWEVER, THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE DEALER (BROWN MAZDA, 5625 CENTRAL AVE, TOLEDO, OH 43615) WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REMEDY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

"TAKAO A RECALL". I RECEIVED A NOTICE OF THIS RECALL IN JULY OF 2016. IT TOLD ME THAT I WOULD BE NOTIFIED WHEN THE LOCAL DEALER HAD PARTS TO FIX THE DEFECT. IN JULY OF 2017 I HAD MY CAR AT THE DEALER FOR OTHER REPAIRS AND I ASKED ABOUT THE RECALL. I WAS TOLD THAT PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE AND NOT TO WORRY ABOUT IT.

I BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE STEERING, ESPECIALLY WHEN TURNING AT INTERSECTIONS, IT MADE SOME BANG/BUMP NOISES, AND FELT LIKE THE FRONT WHEELS WEREN'T TURNING UNLESS I REALLY CRANKED THE STEERING WHEEL. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER FOR AN EVALUATION, AND THEY PROMPTLY PULLED IT OFF THE ROAD, TELLING ME IT WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. TURNS OUT THE FRONT SUBFRAME ON THE PASSENGER SIDE HAD RUSTED OUT SO BADLY THAT IT WAS ALMOST SPLIT INTO TWO PIECES, AND I COULD LITERALLY POKE HOLES THROUGH THE RUSTED AREAS, AFFECTING THE OPERATION OF BOTH THE STEERING AND SUSPENSION. IF THE SUBFRAME HAD INDEED SPLIT, ACCORDING TO THE MECHANIC, THE STEERING WOULD'VE FAILED AND I COULD'VE LOST THE RIGHT FRONT WHEEL.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 6. THE CONTACT OBSERVED THAT THE ALARM ON THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO GO OFF INTERMITTENTLY UNTIL IT DRAINED THE BATTERY. THE VEHICLE WAS JUMPSTARTED AND TAKEN TO A LOCAL DEALER (LEGEND MAZDA, 12115 I-35, SAN ANTONIO, TX, 78233, 210-564-6800) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE FRONT DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOOR LATCHES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE FRONTAL DRIVER SIDE DOOR LATCH WAS REPLACED AND THE FRONTAL PASSENGER SIDE DOOR LATCH WAS IN THE PROCESS OF BEING REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS SERVICED PER NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V425000 (LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES) IN OCTOBER OF 2013 BY THE DEALER (JOHN HINE MAZDA 1545 CAMINO DEL RIO S, SAN DIEGO, CA, 92108, 888-714-7925). THE RECALL REMEDY FAILED TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED OR MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 82,757.

CAR HAS 62,000 MILES ON IT AND LIGHTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED MINIMUM 6 TIMES SINCE CAR BOUGHT WITH 28K MILES. ACCESS TO BULBS REQUIRES MECHANIC TO REPAIR (GETTING UP BEHIND THE WHEEL WELL) AND COST CAN AVERAGES OVER $100 TO REPLACE. THERE IS 88 NHTSA COMPLAINTS ON THIS SAME SUBJECT. WHAT MUST WE ACCOMPLISHED TO HOLD MAZDA ACCOUNTABLE?