2016 Subaru Legacy Complaint Log

Battery dies really fast and ended up doing a replacement right after moving from Idaho to utah and losing a bolt and had to use a wrench from my late husbands toolbag in the trunk to keep it on the positive terminal I do believe after just having left the emergency room and was quite ill. The battery acid started to corrode the cables and everything along with it. Including the back seat, that had a seatbelt that got ripped accidentally when removing a babyseat from the car,

CHIP IN THE WINDSHIELD IN MY DIRECT LINE OF SIGHT, I AM NOT AWARE OF ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD TO CAUSE IT. I PURCHASED VEHICLE USED ONLY 3 MONTHS AGO. WHEN I PURCHASED IT THE DEALERSHIP HAD MENTIONED THAT THEY HAD JUST REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD. SO THE NEW WINDSHIELD WAS ONLY 3 MONTHS OLD.

I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WHEN AFTER I PARK MY CAR AND THIS HAPPEN EVERY OTHER DAY SINCE I STARTED TO HAVE THIS ISSUE.. I HAVE TO DRIVE UP AND DOWN AND CHANGE THE PARKING MODE TO DIFFERENT OTHER MODES USING THE GEAR STICK AND SWITCH IT BACK TO PARKING MODE IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE KEY. IT TAKES ME SEVERAL ATTEMPT S OF DOING THIS TO RELEASE THE KEY FROM IGNITION.

Car showed several check engine lights over the course of 6 months which originally pointed to the O2 sensors and then the alternator and then eventually ECU being an issue. Upon further inspection by a Subaru specialist after many codes relating to bank 1 sensor 2 too lean, oil was noticed in the ECU and then later in the O2 sensor. The oil was cleaned to the best of their ability and less than 24hrs later, more oil was found in the other O2 sensor. Oil seems to be traveling through the wiring harness from the engine into the electrical components. Has caused my car to mis fire at speeds as low as 25 and as high as 75 (causing jerking and unsafe driving on the interstate) and the oil is damaging lots of electrical components under the hood. My car is currently inoperable waiting for repairs on sept 15, 2021

My 2016 Subaru Legacy has a battery issue. I've had to replace it three times. Basically once a year over the past few years. It just drains and is dead. It happens mostly in the winter but not always. Subaru didn't think it was their problem. It is dangerous here in Minnesota to have a untrustworthy electrical system. Recently I did have it brought to a non Subaru shop. It had a new battery so they couldn't seem to find the problem either. I, or could get records as to my past battery purchases if need be.

WHILE DRIVING, EXHAUST ODOR DETECTED IN CABIN CAUSING HEADACHES/NAUSEA AND EXHAUST BECAME MUCH LOUDER STARTING AT ROUGHLY 185,000 MILES. DISCOVERED SUBARU SERVICE PROGRAM BULLETIN WUJ-95 WHICH IDENTIFIES CRACKS FORMING IN THE BELLOWS SECTION OF THE FRONT EXHAUST PIPE AND ITS REPLACEMENT WITH AN UPDATED FRONT EXHAUST. CONTACTED SUBARU AND REQUESTED IT BE COVERED UNDER THE WUJ-95. THIS REQUEST WAS DENIED AS MY VEHICLE "ALREADY HAD THE UPDATED EXHAUST PIPE". PURCHASED AND INSTALLED THE KIT CALLED-OUT IN WUJ-95 MYSELF. UPON REMOVAL OF THE EXHAUST PIPE, I WAS ABLE TO CONFIRM VISUALLY THAT CRACKS HAD FORMED IN THE EXACT LOCATION IDENTIFIED IN WUJ-95. THE "UPDATED" EXHAUST PIPE THAT MY VEHICLE HAD FAILED. CONTACTED SUBARU SEVERAL MORE TIMES REQUESTING THIS BE COVERED . COVERAGE WAS DENIED. THE "UPDATED" EXHAUST PIPE IS NOT A TRUE FIX FOR THIS SAFETY ISSUE.*DT*JB

VEHICLE IS STOPPED, SHIFTED INTO PARK AND PARKING BRAKE IS ENGAGED. STEERING WHEEL IS STRAIGHT. KEY IS USED TO SHUT OFF ENGINE BUT WILL NOT MOVE INTO THE LOCK POSITION AND CAN NOT BE REMOVED. OCCURRING 50% OF THE TIME. RESTARTING ENGINE AND SHIFTING THROUGH REVERSE/NEUTRAL/DRIVE BACK TO PARK HAS EVENTUALLY ALLOWED KEY REMOVAL.

I HAD TO CHANGE MY BATTERY ALREADY AS IT WOULDN'T CHARGE OR START THE CAR. TWO FUSES HAVE BEEN REPLACED. ALSO WHILE DRIVING, THE COMPUTER DISPLAY SCREEN BLINKS, FREEZES OR HAS GONE BLANK. AT TIMES, I GET AN ALERT WHILE DRIVING THAT TELLS ME 2 OR 3 HOURS SINCE VEHICLE IGNITION. THESE EVENTS SEEM TO OCCUR ON LONG ROAD TRIPS WITH MULTIPLE SHORT STOPS FOR REFUELING. IF I STOP THE CAR AND KEEP IT OFF OF AROUND 15 MINUTES THEN RESTART THE CAR, THE SCREEN WILL BEGIN WORKING AGAIN. THE DATE ENTERED ON THIS CLAIM IS THE BATTERY CHANGE DATE.

Battery is draining and needing replaced far more often than is typical. Constant corrosion build up on the battery.

THE CAR WAS STATIONARY AND OVER TIME RODENTS (MICE) CHEW ON THE ELECTRICAL WIRES HARNESS DUE TO THE ATTRACTION OF MANUFACTURING MATERIAL. MANUFACTURING MATERIAL IS A SOY BASE ELECTRICAL WRAPPING. BOTH OCCURRENCES HAPPENED AT THE SAME EXACT JUNCTION WHERE WIRING HOUSING IS ATTACHED TO THE ENGINE. EVIDENCE IS FIRST OCCURRENCE IN NOVEMBER 2021, SECOND OCCURRENCE APRIL 2021. ANTIDOTAL EVIDENCE IS THE SUBARU SERVICE DEPARTMENT EMPLOYEE STATED THAT THIS IS A USUAL OCCURRENCE FROM SUBARU CARS. BOTH REPAIRS IN LESS THAN FIVE MONTHS CHARGES ARE OVER $6000.

Battery fully discharges when vehicle sits idle for more than 2 to 3 days. Car does not start. I changed the battery twice in 6 months time and have checked alternator which is okay. Subaru insists it's due to a 'non subaru' battery. The original battery that was exchanged was a subaru battery. The discharged battery has occurred multiple times in the course of 1 1/2 years. I have not taken the vehicle back in for this issue because they cannot solve the problem and charging me for service call.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU LEGACY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WINDSHIELD WAS CRACKED NEAR THE WINDSHIELD WIPER. CARTER SUBARU SHORELINE (17225 AURORA AVE N, SEATTLE, WA 98133; (206) 542-1166) WAS CONTACTED AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VIN WAS NOT UNDER RECALL. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND OPENED A CASE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 44,000.

THE 2016 SUBARU LEGACY IGNITION KEEPS JAMMING THE KEY AFTER THE DRIVER HAS STOPPED THE VEHICLE AND PLACED IT IN PARK. THE KEY REMAINS JAMMED AND BECOMES DIFFICULT FOR THE DRIVER TO REMOVE. KEEP IN MIND THE TIRES ARE STRAIGHT WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED AND THE KEY IS NOT BENT. THIS INCIDENT HAS OCCURRED SEVERAL TIMES THIS MONTH AND HAS NEVER OCCURRED PRIOR.

UNABLE TO REMOVE IGNITION KEY FROM STEERING COLUMN WITHOUT REPEATABLY SHIFTING CAR OUT OF AND BACK INTO PARK. DEALER CHARGES OVER $400 TO REPAIR A WELL KNOWN DEFECT WHICH WAS ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN IN MARCH 2018.

KEY DOES NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION AFTER PUTTING CAR IN PARK

WHEN THE CAR IS STATIONARY AND SHIFTED INTO PARK AND IGNITION TURNED OFF, THE KEY BECOMES STUCK IN THE ACCESSORY POSITION AND KEY IS NOT ABLE TO BE REMOVED. EXTERIOR LIGHTING AND INTERIOR ELECTRONICS REMAIN ON. SUBARU IS AWARE OF THIS SHIFT PLATE SENSOR MALFUNCTION IS PRESENT IN 2016 LEGACY AND 2017 FORRESTER MODELS, AS FAR AS I KNOW, BUT HAVE NOT RECALLED THEM. IN ORDER TO REMOVE KEY, THE VEHICLE MUST BE TURNED BACK ON AND THE GEAR SHIFT SLAMMED INTO PARK, USUALLY MULTIPLE TIMES, TO ALLOW FOR THE IGNITION TO BE FULLY TURNED OFF AND THE KEY TO BE REMOVED. ONCE IT STARTED, IT WILL NOT QUIT UNTIL THE SENSOR HAS BEEN REPLACED. THE BACKUP CAM WITH ALSO TURN ON WHILE NOT IN REVERSE, PRESUMABLY RELATED TO THE SHIFT PLATE SENSOR MALFUNCTION.

Battery drains completely and will not start if not driven for a day. Have had the battery rep,aced twice and electrical system checked, yet batteries continue to discharge and are dead if the vehicle is not driven for one day.

KEY INTERMITTENTLY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN CAR IS IN PARK AND ENGINE TURNED OFF (BUT ELECTRIC IS STILL ON SINCE KEY CANNOT BE TURNED TO "OFF"). IF LEFT UNRESOLVED, THE BATTERY WILL EVENTUALLY DIE. SUBARU HAS ACKNOWLEDGED THE ISSUE IN SERVICE BULLETIN 16-112-18R: "THIS BULLETIN ANNOUNCES A DESIGN CHANGE TO THE CVT SELECT LEVER (SHIFTER) MECHANISM IN RESPONSE TO ISOLATED CUSTOMER CONCERNS OF NOT BEING ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THE CAUSE IS CONTAMINATION OF THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH INTERNAL COMPONENTS." THIS IS A SERIOUS ENOUGH PROBLEM THAT IT REQUIRED A REDESIGN; THIS IS A SERIOUS ENOUGH PROBLEM THAT IT REQUIRES A RECALL.

INTERMITTENTLY CANNOT REMOVE KEY FROM IGINITION. CANNOT FULLY CUT THE CAR OFF.

AM ABLE TO SHIFT INTO PARK AND TURN OFF THE IGNITION BUT NOT ABLE TO REMOVE KEY. IT TAKES SEVERAL TRIES TO SHIFT GEARS UNTIL ABLE TO TURN THE KEY TO RELEASE IT. THIS WAS HAPPENING FOR A WHILE AND STOPPED AND HAS STARTED DOING IT MORE CONSISTENTLY NOW. *TR

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Legacy. The contact stated that the battery became drained on multiple occasions. The contact stated that the battery had been replaced several times by the dealer. The computer system had been updated on the vehicle as that was the failure diagnosis however, the failure had continued. The contact stated that when she went to retrieve the vehicle from the dealer the battery was dead. The contact was advised to purchase a battery maintenance charger or to disconnect the battery cables. The contact stated that she purchased the charger and the failure still occurred if the vehicle was not plugged in for 24 hours. The manufacturer was notified, and a case was opened. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.

AFTER PLACING VEHICLE IN PARK, ROUGHLY 30% OF TIMES THIS IS DONE, KEY CANNOT BE TURNED BACK FAR ENOUGH TO REMOVE IT. SO FAR THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT OUT IS TO RESTART CAR, SHIFT THROUGH ALL THE GEARS, AND PLACE IT BACK IN PARK. SOMETIMES THIS MUST BE DONE 2-3 TIMES. THIS STARTED HAPPENING AROUND 62,000 MILES. *TR

I have had to frequently replace the battery in my car. My car is a 2016, and I’ve had to put four batteries in my car since I’ve owned it. I’ve also had the wire to the alternator get so hot that it melted down the wire and the alternator, required an expensive replacement of both parts.

THE SWITCH THAT THE KEY GOES INTO WILL NOT RELEASE THE KEY WHEN YOU PUT IT IN PARK. PLEASE MAKE THEM RECALL THIS AND FIX IT. THERE ARE SEVERAL PEOPLE ONLINE COMPLAINING ABOUT THIS ISSUE.

KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION AFTER PLACING CAR IN PARK. LITERALLY HAVE TO EITHER SLAM CAR INTO PARK OR START CAR AND IMMEDIATELY SHUT IT DOWN. PROBLEM STARTED RIGHT AFTER HITTING 60000 MILES.

KEY CAN NOT BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION. IT DOES NOT HELP TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL TO UNLOCK IT. SHIFTING IN AND OUT OF DRIVE/NEUTRAL/PARK SEVERAL TIMES WILL EVENTUALLY UNLOCK IT. HAS BEEN HAPPENING INTERMITTENTLY FOR ABOUT 2 MONTHS AND HAPPENS NOW EVERY TIME.

IGNITIION KEY STUCK IN ACC AND WILL NOT COME OUT OF STEERING COLUMN

ON 1-19-2020 I DROVE HOME FROM THE STORE, CAME TO A STOP IN MY PARKING SPOT AND WHEN I WENT TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK IT SUDDENLY ACCELERATED AS THOUGH I HAD HIT THE GAS. I QUICKLY HIT THE BRAKES 3 TIMES BUT GOT NO RESPONSE AND HIT MY FENCE BEFORE THE CAR CAME TO A STOP NONE OF MY SAFETY FEATURES (INCLUDING COLLISION AVOIDANCE) KICKED IN AND SUBARU SAID THERE WAS NO RECORD OF ANY MALFUNCTION AND THEY COULD NOT RECREATE THE INCIDENCE. FILED CLAIM WITH INSURANCE COMPANY AND GETTING FRONT DAMAGE REPAIRED, WONDER WHY THE COMPUTER DOES NOT SHOW THERE WAS A COLLISION...

THE KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. PUT CAR IN PARK AND CAN NOT GET THE IGNITION CYLINDER TO TURN ALL THE BACK TO REMOVE THE KEY

KEY WILL NOT REMOVE FROM IGNITION WHEN TURNING OFF CAR. PROGRESSIVELY GOT MORE FREQUENT. ONLY WAY TO REMOVE THE KEY IS TO MOVE THE CAR OR TO SHIFT BACK IN FORTH FROM PARK TO DRIVE.

I was driving on highway and engine failed light came on, along with low fuel sign. Engine shut off. Luckily I was able to safely pull over. The Dealer determined that the low fuel sensor failed thus shutoff the engine. Shutting engine off on a highway is dangerous and life threatening event. Need a different strategy to warn the driver with a time to safely pull over. It cost me over $1,500 to get the part repalce.

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK-ENGINE/CAR TURNS OFF EXCEPT RADIO/LIGHTS. HAVE TO RESTART CAR PUT INTO REVERSE, BACK INTO PARK, THEN TURN OFF CAR.

ON 2019-11-30 WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY, THE DRIVER HEARD A SUDDEN SOUND AND A CRACK APPEARED ON THE WINDSHIELD. THE CRACK APPEARED TO ORIGINATE FROM THE CENTER BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD, RISE UPWARD ABOUT A FOOT, THEN TOWARD PASSENGER SIDE A FEW INCHES. OVER THE COURSE OF THE NEXT FEW DAYS THE CRACK BECAME LONGER TOWARD PASSENGER SIDE, WHILE PARKED OVERNIGHT. ON 2019-12-03 VEHICLE OWNER CALLED SOA TO NOTIFY THEM OF THE POTENTIAL DEFECT OCCURRENCE WITH THE WINDSHIELD, AND WAS PROVIDED A CASE NUMBER FOR WARRANTY CLAIM/DEFECT. VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO LOCAL SUBARU DEALER IN ZIP CODE 32609 FOR INSPECTION, AND TO HAVE THEM TAKE PICTURES TO BE SENT TO SOA FOR REVIEW, REFERENCING THE CASE NUMBER. DEALER SAID THEY THOUGHT THE CRACK WAS FROM AN IMPACT EVENT, AND RECOMMENDED A LOCAL BODY SHOP FOR OWNER TO PURCHASE A REPLACEMENT WINDSHIELD, AND EYESIGHT RECALIBRATION, AT OWNER COST. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BY THE RECOMMENDED BODY SHOP ON 2019-12-11, OWNER FILED CLAIM WITH THEIR VEHICLE INSURANCE. AS OF 2019-12-23, NO RESPONSE HAS BEEN RECEIVED BY VEHICLE OWNER FROM SOA ON THE CASE THAT WAS FILED. THE ATTACHED PHOTOS ARE OF THE CRACKED WINDSHIELD, NOTING THE CRACK PROGRESSION FROM 2019-11-30 TO 2019-12-03. THE WINDSHIELD IDENTIFIERS ARE IDENTICAL ON THE CRACKED AND REPLACEMENT WINDSHIELDS.

KEY WILL NOT REMOVE FROM IGNITION WHEN TURNING OFF CAR. PROGRESSIVELY GOT MORE FREQUENT. ONLY WAY TO REMOVE THE KEY IS TO MOVE THE CAR OR TO SHIFT BACK IN FORTH FROM PARK TO DRIVE. PART HAD TO BE REPLACED

THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED ABOUT 1INCH FOR NO REASON, DRIVING OFF OF THE LOT AFTER PURCHASING MY USED SUBARU LEGACY. THE NEXT DAY, ANOTHER CRACK APPEARED WHILE DRIVING SLOW SPEEDS ON A FLAT ROADWAY. THE SECOND CRACK IS LOCATED IN A NEW LOCATION, AND SPANS ABOUT 2-2.5 FT'ABOUT 3/4 THE LENGTH OF THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD. AFTER RESEARCHING, I CAME ACROSS A LAWSUIT CURRENTLY FILED AGAINST SUBARU AMERICA FOR THIS VERY ISSUE'EASILY CRACKED WINDSHIELDS FOR THESE YEARS AND MODELS. *TR

2016 SUBARU LEGACY WILL NOT RELEASE KEY FROM IGNITION EVEN WHEN CAR IS IN PARK. WILL TAKE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS AND OFTEN REQUIRES FORCEFULLY PUTTING GEAR SHIFT IN PARK FOR THE KEY TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION. PROBLEM IS GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE AND SUBARU OF AMERICA IS CLAIMING NO RESPONSIBILITY.

EXPERIENCED DIFFICULTY REMOVING KEY FROM IGNITION AFTER VEHICLE IS STOPPED AND ENGINE TURNED OFF. ISSUE RECURS FREQUENT BUT RANDOMLY. SOMETIMES IT REQUIRE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO RESTART AND SHUT-OFF ENGINE BEFORE KEY WOULD RELEASE FROM IGNITION. VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO DEALER FOR REPAIR AND FAULTY PART IN SHIFTER ASSEMBLY REPLACED.

HAVING DIFFICULTY REMOVING KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK - CAR WILL TURN OFF BUT CANNOT REMOVE THE KEY WITHOUT MUCH DIFFICULTY, RESTARTING JIGGLING WITH FORCE - FEAR OF KEY BREAKING IN IGNITION

STEERING WHEEL ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL FOR SPEED REGULATION DOES NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY. WHEN PRESSING THE CONTROL TO INCREASE OR DECREASE SPEED, THERE IS NO RESPONSE OR "FOLLOW DISTANCE" INCREASES. BECAUSE SUBARU'S EYESIGHT AND ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL REPRESENT SIGNIFICANT SAFETY, ACCIDENT-PREVENTION ADVANCES, A MALFUNCTIONING STEERING WHEEL CONTROL REPRESENTS A REAL SAFETY HAZARD WHEN DRIVING.

FAILURE OF THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH RESULTING IN THE INABILITY TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN SHIFTER IS IN THE PARK POSITION.

MY WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY DEVELOPED A CRACK WHILE PARKED IN MY DRIVEWAY FOR A WEEK. NO DEBRIS WAS FOUND AROUND THE VEHICLE. LOOKS LIKE IT STARTED WITH THE TOP PASSENGER SIDE AND EXTENDED 1 FOOT DOWN AND 1.5 FEET ACROSS TO THE DRIVERS SIDE.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED STARTING AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD (IN THE MIDDLE) AND IT SPREAD WHILE BEING STATIONARY. GOT IT REPLACED BY SUBARU. A MONTH LATER THE NEW WINDSHIELD CRACKED IN THE SAME EXACT PLACE AND SPREAD WHILE STATIONARY. BOTH TIMES IT WAS PARKED IN THE DRIVEWAY.

WAS DRIVING CAR ALONG INTERSTATE AT 75 MPH AROUND 6 PM. HEARD A POP ON THE WINDSHIELD AND SOON AFTER ABOUT A 6 INCH CRACK APPEARED SIDEWAYS JUST ABOVE THE DRIVER SIDE WIPER.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU LEGACY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY FAILED TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO SCHULTE SUBARU (7601 S MINNESOTA AVE, SIOUX FALLS, SD 57108, (605) 275-4040), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 60,000.

NEED TO REPLACE GOODYEAR EAGLE LS2 225/50R18 TIRES. 4 OF THEM HAVE DRY ROT ON THE INSIDE OF THE TIRE CLOSEST TO THE RIM. ONE HAS A BUBBLE ON THE INSIDE. CAR JUST TURNED 37 THOUSAND MILES YESTERDAY. THIS IS A POTENTIAL ISSUE TO CONTINUE DRIVING ON THESE TIRES. I AM AFRAID OF A BLOWOUT

RADIO CONSTANTLY FREEZES. CANNOT OPERATE VOLUME OR ANY OTHER FUNCTIONS. WON'T EVEN PLAY MUSIC WHEN FROZEN. HAVE TO TURN OFF TO REBOOT. REARVIEW CAMERA WON'T WORK SOMETIMES. WHAT'S THE POINT OFF PAYING FOR THE EXTRA SAFETY FEATURE IF IT DOESN'T WORK? THIS WAS A VERY EXPENSIVE CAR. I AM VERY UNHAPPY.

SEVERE WATER LEAK ON PASSENGER SIDE OF AUTO, UNDER DASH BOARD. AREA IS ALWAYS DAMP OR FLOODED WITH WATER.

My 2016 Subaru Legacy 4 -Door Sedan has Power Windows. When my vehicle was under it's Extended Warranty I had an issue with the Passenger Side Window. When trying to roll the window down, it would roll down and then quickly roll back up. Over and over again. I had to wait and possibly even turn off the vehicle to finally get the Passenger Window to close. But needless to say, it made me very nervous. I took my vehicle to the Subaru Dealership in Grapevine, Texas for repair. It was repaired at the time, at a cost of $100.00. But here I am yet again, and the same problem has happened again. And now my Driver's Side Window will not even roll down, at all. I no longer have the Extended Warranty, unfortunately. So, I am truly unsure if I feel comfortable taking it back for repairs. Wondering if this will happen again. And with the Driver's Side Window not being able to roll down at all, this has proved dangerous for me and my Mother. Who also drives my vehicle. It was/is especially quite dangerous going to do Curbside Pickups, Drive Thru for my Prescriptions, or food orders. I am very concerned for mine and my Mother's Safety with both Front Driver's Side and Passenger Side Windows not working properly at all. I have never had a vehicle with this kind of issue before and feel if Subaru is all about Safety then all my Windows should work properly. I am at a real loss here as to what to do, as I cannot afford any repairs due to financial hardships and my poor health. So, it is rarely driven anymore, even though I have paid the loan off and have the Title for the vehicle. I am very perplexed and need help as to what I could or should do, other than report this Safety Issue to NHTSA. Thankfully though, the Rear Windows work properly. I have not discovered any issues with those two windows. No Warning Lights or Alerts have been present either for the front windows. But it is a definite problem and safety issue when the front windows do not work as they should.

OUCH!! MARCH 20, 2019!!!

NOTICED YESTERDAY THAT MY 2016 SUBARU LEGACY WAS MAKING NOISE WHILE LOWERING WINDOW ON DRIVERS SIDE. I CALLED SUBARU TO SCHEDULE A APPOINTMENT FOR THE TO CHECK THE WINDOW THEY ANALYZED THE PROBLEM AND INFORMED ME IT WAS A WINDOW REGULATOR GOING BAD BUT COULDNT EXPLAIN WHY A TWO YEAR OLD BARELY DRIVEN NEW VEHICLE REGULATOR WOULD GO OUT? I RECEIVED NO ANSWER.