NHTSA Owner Complaint Log
This page lists owner-reported complaints filed with NHTSA for the 2013 Dodge Dart. Complaints are unverified consumer reports submitted to NHTSA and do not by themselves prove a defect or defect rate.
Data synced from NHTSA on May 4, 2026
THE CLUSTER THAT HOUSES THE SPEEDOMETER IS WRONG. CURRENTLY THE SPEEDOMETER EVEN READS 20MPH EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS NOT EVEN RUNNING. IT IS HARD TO TELL HOW FAST I AM GOING WITHOUT RELIABLE SPEEDOMETER INFORMATION.
THE WATER PUMP WENT OUT IN MY CAR AT 50,615 MILES. I WAS TOLD BY THE DEALER THAT THE WATER PUMP WAS NOT PART OF MY POWER TRAIN WARRANTY. I TOOK THE CAR TO A DIFFERANT SHOP TO HAVE A NEW WATER PUMP PUT ON MY CAR IT HAD 8,000 MORE MILES ON THE CAR IT STARTED OVER HEATING TOOK THE DODGE TO LARSON IN PUYALLUP WA. THEY ARE TELLING ME THAT THE ANTIFREEZE HAS BEEN MIXED IN THE CAR AND THAT THEY WILL NOT HONOR THE POWER TRAIN WARRANTY!
THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING-INTERMITTENT PROBLEM/ISSUE. THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM (MANUAL TRANS) WILL LOSE PRESSURE WHICH MEANS THAT THE CLUTCH PEDAL WILL GO TO THE FLOOR AND I CAN'T SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION. AT TIMES IT IS ONLY DOING THIS FIRST THING IN THE MORNING BUT WILL GET PRESSURE AFTER "PUMPING IT UP" A FEW TIMES. IT WILL LOSE PRESSURE AFTER DRIVING FOR A PERIOD OF 15-20 MINUTES MEANING THAT WHEN COMING TO A STOP I AM UNABLE TO DOWNSHIFT. ONCE STOPPED, WHEN IT HAS LOST PRESSURE, IF YOU LEAVE THE TRANSMISSION IN FIRST GEAR, OR REVERSE, IT WILL MOVE WHEN THE IGNITION KEY IS PUT INTO THE START MODE WHEN THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS FULLY DEPRESSED! THERE HAVE NEVER BEEN ANY FLUID LEAKS OR SIGNS THAT THE LEVEL HAS GONE DOWN. I HAVE SEEN ON A DODGE DART OWNERS WEBSITE THAT THIS IS A PROBLEM THAT OTHERS HAVE HAD AS WELL.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH, THE ACCELRATOR PEDAL SEIZED AND THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE CRASHED INTO THE REAR OF ANOTHER VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WERE NO INJURIES SUSTAINED IN THE CRASH. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 31,000.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT RECEIVED A NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V542000 (POWER TRAIN); HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE RECALL WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.
BRAKE PEDAL BECAME VERY HARD WITH ACCOMPANYING AIR SOUND. VEHICLE STOPPING WAS DIFFICULT AND USE OF EMERGENCY BRAKE WAS NEEDED. VEHICLE HAD TO BE TOWED TO DEALER AS IT COULD NOT BE DRIVEN. DEALER IS REPLACING MASTER CYLINDER TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM.
WHEN I WENT TO TURN MY CAR ON, WHICH IS A MANUAL, MY CLUTCH PEDAL STAYED ENGAGED AND WOULD NOT RELEASE AND MY CAR WOULD NOT TURN OFF. I COULD NOT TURN THE KEY TO TURN THE CAR OFF. I HAD TO WAIT A FEW MINUTES BEFORE THE CLUTCH RELEASED AND I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO TURN MY CAR OFF. WHEN I TRIED AGAIN TO TURN MY CAR ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL ONCE AGAIN STAYED ENGAGED AND WOULD NOT RELEASE BUT I WAS ABLE TO TURN MY CAR OFF THE SECOND TIME. AND TRY AGAIN AND AGAIN UNTIL THE CLUTCH WOULD RETURN AFTER I TURNED THE CAR ON
WHEN I APPLIED THE BRAKES THE PEDDLE WOULD GO DOWN TO THE FLOOR CAUSING ME TO PUMP BRAKES IN ORDER TO STOP.
WHEN TRYING TO START THE CAR THE CLUTCH PEDAL WILL GET STUCK DOWN AND NOT ENGAGE. IF THIS HAPPENS WHEN DRIVING IT COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT RECEIVED AN INTERIM NOTIFICATION A LONG TIME AGO FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V800000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC). THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE WHEN THE SECOND NOTICE WOULD BE SENT CONFIRMING THAT THE PARTS WERE AVAILABLE TO RECEIVE THE RECALL REPAIR. THE CONTACT WAS NOT EXPERIENCING A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.
I AM HAVING THE SAME ISSUE THAT A LOT ARE HAVING AS I RESEARCHED THE INTERNET. AS I DEPRESS THE BRAKES A HISSING AIR NOISE HAPPENS AND THE BRAKING SYSTEMS FAILS. THE WARNING LIGHT AND MESSAGE APPEARS ON THE DASH, AND I HAVE TO BRAKE EXTREMELY HARD TO GET THE CAR TO STOP AND IT APPEARS THE HYDRAULICS ARE FAILING. IT'S DANGEROUS AND I DON'T HAVE THE EXTRA MONEY TO GET THIS FIXED. THIS IS CLEARLY A DEFECT AND IT NEEDS TO BE RECALLED AND REPAIRED BY THE MANUFACTURER.
I HAVE NOT BEEN NOTIFIED AT ALL ON MY RECALLS. THERE HAS BEEN SEVERAL THINGS I'VE CALLED MY DEALERSHIP ON AND I THOUGHT IT HAD BEEN FIXED NOT KNOWING IT WAS A RECALL. BUT IT IS NOT FIXED. MY TRANSMISSION WON'T LET ME PUT CAR IN REVERSE VERY EASY. MY CAR ENGINE RPMS GET HIGHER WHEN I APPROACH TO STOP. IT ACTS LIKE IT'S NOT GETTING ENOUGH FUEL ST TIMES LIKE IT CUTS OUT. MY BLUETOOTH IS HARD TO CONNECT. MY FRONT DRIVER TIRE HAS WORE OUT 2 SIDE WALLS TIRES BUT HAS NEVER WENT FLAT BUT NEVER SHOWS IT'S VERY LOW BUT IT IS NEVER THE SAME AS OTHERS. MY CAR FRONT DRIVER MAKES A NOISE LIKE SUSPENSION IS MESSED UP AND IT'S VERY ROUGH RIDING. I NO LONGER GET GOOD GAS MILEAGE. WHEN I GO TO PARK MY CAR IT WANTS TO ROLL AFT ERR BEING PUT IN PARK. THE BREAKS ARE VERY TOUCHY. BARELY GRAZE THE PEDAL AND YOU'LL HIT THE STEERING WHEEL. I WANTED A NEW CAR ALL MY LIFE AND AFTER 35 YEARS I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO GET ONE AND I'M STILL IN THE SAME POSITION AS BEFORE. PLEASE HELP ON WHAT TO-DO CONSIDERING I'VE YET TO EVEN RECEIVE ANYTHING ABOUT MY CAR HAVING ANY RECALL. AND I'VE GOT 2 KIDS THAT I'M RAISING ALONE ANDI'M IT SAYS CAN CAUSE ACCIDENT WHY CAN'T I GET A REPLACEMENT CAR TILL THEY GET THE PARTS TO MAKE MY CAR SAFE. I'M VERY UNHAPPY
TAKATA RECALL AT APPROXIMATELY 35000 MILES I BEGAN TO NOTICE A SQUEAK IN MY FRONT END WHEN I WOULD GO OVER SPEED BUMPS. NOW, IT HAS PROGRESSED TO A LOUD THUMP WHEN I GO OVER BUMPS OR TURN MY WHEEL TO THE RIGHT. IT FEELS LIKE THE SHOCKS/STRUTS ARE WORN OUT.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE'S MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL, FAN SPEED, AND TEMPERATURE FLUCTUATED INDEPENDENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT ESSENTIAL SENSORS WERE MISFIRING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 19,000.
I WAS BACKING OUT OF A PARKING SPOT WHEN I HEARD A POPPING SOUND, AND I TRIED TO STOP THE VEHICLE BUT THE BRAKES FAILED AND THE PEDAL WENT ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR, I HAD TO PUT IT IN PARK FOR IT TO STOP.
DRIVING VEHICLE AND WHEN ATTEMPTED TO STOP HAD TO USING ER BRAKE DUE TO BRAKE PEDEL NOT DEPRESSING (ISSUED A HISSING NOISE WHEN TOUCHED). DROVE AROUND THE BLOCK AND AT EACH CORNER SAME THING HAPPENED. WHEN PARKED CAR AND OPENED DRIVER'S DOOR, COULD SEE SIGNS OF SOMETHING LEAKING FROM FRONT/DRIVER SIDE OF CAR (APPEARED TO BE FROM A LOCATION IN LINE WITH THE BACK OF THE FRONT TIRES). UPDATE 9/15/15*CW....UPDATED 06/15/16 *BF *CN
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO HESITATE WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 19V293000 (POWER TRAIN). THE CONTACT STATED THAT CUMMINS CHRYSLER (LOCATED AT 4901 E MAIN ST, WEATHERFORD, OK 73096, (580) 772-5086) EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND STATED THAT THE PART WAS NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE REPAIR. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 76,208. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.*DT*DT CONSUMER STATED I JUST HEARD FROM THE DEALERSHIP ABOUT MY CAR THE PART THAT WAS ORDERED CAME IN MAIL AND WAS ALREADY BROKE AND THE PART THAT THE PREVIOUS DEALERSHIP HAD PUT IN WAS ALSO BROKE AS WELL. SO I'M NOT SURE IF THIS PART THAT IS FOR THE TRANSMISSION IS JUST THAT FRAGILE THAT IT CANT EVEN MAKE IT THROUGH THE SHIPPING PROCESS BUT I WANTED TO MAKE AWARE THAT THE PART MUST HAVE SOME KIND OF DEFECT FOR IT BEING THE 3RD ONE AND THIS LAST ONE WAS NEVER EVEN PUT ON MY CAR AS IT CAME IN THE MAIL ALREADY BROKE.*JB CONSUMER STATED THERE WAS TRANSMISSION ISSUES AT LEAST 16 TIMES. *JB
WHOOSING SOUND STARTED TO PULL OUT OF A PARKING SPOT BRAKES FAILED ALL I HERE IS A WHOOSING SOUND
TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE DRIVER DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH AND ENCOUNTERING A POTHOLE, THE DRIVER CRASHED INTO A POLE. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE DRIVER SUSTAINED UNKNOWN INJURIES THAT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 48,000.
IT HAD RAINED AND I WAS MANEUVERING MY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 2013 DODGE DART OUT OF A TIGHT SPOT, WHEN PLACING IN REVERSE AND BREAKING TO CHANGE TO FORWARD, THE ENGINE SHOOK AND FELT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO STALL OUT. I REVVED THE ENGINE TO KEEP IT FROM STALLING. THERE IS VIBRATION THAT YOU CAN FEEL WHEN SITTING AT A LIGHT, POSSIBLY A ROUGH IDLE. U-CONNECT IS NOT WORKING. WHEN MORE THAN ONE THING IS ON, SUCH AS RADIO OR AC, AND YOU GO TO OPEN WINDOW, YOU CAN FEEL A POWER DRAIN. I AM NOT SURE IF ALL THESE THING HAVE TO DO WITH ELECTRICAL, POWER-TRAIN OR BOTH.
WHEN SON ATTEMPTED TO LEAVE PARKING LOT, THERE WAS A MEDIUM "CHUNK" NOISE AND THE BRAKES DIDN'T SEEM TO WORK AT ALL UNTIL HE STOMPED REALLY HARD ON THE PEDAL. HE DROVE HIS 8 MILES HOME SLOWLY, GIVING LOTS OF BRAKING ROOM AS EVERY TIME HE HIT THE BRAKES A HISSING NOISE AND VERY LITTLE BRAKE RESPONSE WAS GIVEN EVEN WHEN DEPRESSING THE BRAKE AS HARD AS HE COULD. WHEN MY HUSBAND DROVE IT INTO THE SHOP, HE SAID IT WAS LIKE THERE WERE NO LONGER POWER STEERING BRAKES. THE BRAKE BOOSTER WAS REPLACED, UNDER WARRANTY STILL, AND SINCE MY SON STEPPED SO HARD ON THE BRAKE, HE ACTUALLY BROKE THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY AS WELL, WHICH CAUSED THE BRAKE LIGHTS TO STAY ON ALL THE TIME EVEN WHEN THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF. ALL THAT WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY, TOO.
AT 70MPH ON THE INTERSTATE I HAD TO BRAKE, MY BREAKS MADE A POPPING NOISE AND AN AIR SOUND, AND DID NOT SLOW THE CAR DOWN AT ALL. I WAS UNABLE TO EVEN MOVE THE BREAK PEDAL, IT WAS RIGID. AT THAT TIME I HAD TO USE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO STOP THE CAR. IT HAD TO BE TOWED TO A DEALERSHIP AND I AM IN THE PROCESS OF REPLACING THE BRAKE BOOSTER WHICH IS COSTING ME $800 OUT OF POCKET AND IT MAY NEED MORE AFTER THAT THEY WONT KNOW UNTIL THEY REPLACE THAT FIRST. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH THE BRAKES IS COVERED UNDER POWERTRAIN EVEN THOUGH THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A MANUFACTURE DEFECT THAT IS CURRENTLY UNDER INVESTIGATION. THIS WAS A VERY SCARY AND DANGEROUS SITUATION THAT HAS ALREADY HAPPENED TO FAR TO MANY PEOPLE AND A RECALL SHOULD HAVE ALREADY BEEN MADE.
DRIVING NORMALLY WHEN APPROACHING STOP SIGN, DEPRESSED BRAKE PEDAL WHEN HEARD SOUND OF WHOOSHING AIR AND PEDAL PUSHED BACK UP. HAD TO REALLY PUSH VERY HARD WITH FOOT ON PEDAL TO GET CAR TO STOP. AND THAT WAS A SLOW STOP. IF I HAD HAD TO STOP SHORT WHEN THIS OCCURED IT WOULD HAVE FAILED AND PROBABLE RESULT WOULD HAVE BEEN A CRASH. LUCKY I WAS IN A RURAL AREA AT THE TIME WITH NO CARS IN FRONT OF ME. SO I WAS ABLE TO MAKE IT HOME THAT NIGHT. WILL NOT ATTEMPT TO DRIVE IT TO DEALER AND WILL HAVE IT TOWED IN. BEEN READING ON-LINE ABOUT IT AND HAVE READ MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS AND THEY SAY IT IS A BRAKE BOOSTER. WHY IS THIS NOT BEING RECALLED IMMEDIATELY. DOES THERE HAVE TO BE A DEATH OR DEATHS FIRST?
WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE FREEWAY I FELT A WEIRD POPPING. I EXITED THE FREEWAY AND CAME TO A STOP. WHEN I PUSHED ON THE GAS TO GO AGAIN, THE CAR WOULDN'T RESPOND. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND CHECK TRANSMISSION LIGHT CAME ON. IT WAS IN DRIVE AND WOULDN'T GO, SO I PUT IN PARK AND TURNED THE CAR OFF. I THEN TURNED IT BACK ON IT WOULD GO INTO GEAR AND I COULD DRIVE, BUT THE TRANSMISSION KEPT SLIPPING. I TOOK IT TO A DEALER AND THEY SAID IT JUST NEEDED A SOFTWARE UPDATE, WHICH THEY DID. LESS THEN 24 HOURS LATER IT STARTED HAPPENING AGAIN. I'VE ONLY HAD THIS CAR FOR A MONTH AND NOW I'M STARTING TO THINK THIS IS WHY THE PREVIOUS OWNER TRADED IT IN.
I HAVE A 2013 DODGE DART WITH ABOUT 54000 MILES I WAS GOING HOME WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN MY CAR DIDN'T WANT TO BREAK LUCKY I WASN'T GOING THAT FAST! I HAD TO HIT A CURVE AND PULLED THE PARKING BRAKE FAST SO I WOULDN'T HIT ANOTHER CAR. I SEE A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVING THIS PROBLEM AND DODGE DOES NOT WANT TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. I TOOK IT TO GET CHECKED AND IT'S MY POWER BRAKE BOOSTER THAT WHEN OUT IT DIDN'T TELL ME WHEN IT HAPPEN SO I DIDN'T KNOW I WASN'T GUNNA HAVE NO BRAKES AND I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE SOME PEOPLE WERE NOT SO LUCKY THAT THEY CRASHED. I REALLY HOPE DODGE DOES A RECALL FAST ABOUT THIS PROBLEM BEFORE SOME ONE REALLY GETS HURT BAD.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH, THE VEHICLE HYDROPLANED AND CRASHED INTO A TELEPHONE POLE. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THE CONTACT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION AND SUFFERED A FOREHEAD INJURY AND A BLOODY NOSE. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 33,000.
MY VEHICLE IS COMPLETELY UNRELIABLE. ANY TIME THE SPEED REACHES 40 MPH OR MORE IT GIVES A TRANSMISSION SERVICE MESSAGE AND SHUTS OFF. ADDITIONALLY IF IT IS IDLE FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME (AS IN A DRIVE-THRU) IT WILL SHUT OFF THEN AS WELL. THERE HAS BEEN A RECALL ON THIS CAR BUT THE PARTS ARE NOT EVEN AVAILABLE. I HAVE A PIECE OF JUNK IN MY DRIVEWAY THAT I AM CURRENTLY MAKING PAYMENTS ON AS WELL AS FULL COVERAGE INSURANCE. VERY FED-UP AND DISAPPOINTED THAT I HAVE NO LEAGLE RECOURSE!!! I AM JUST EXPECTED TO CONTINUE TO PAY FOR AN UNDRIVEABLE CAR.
I STARTED THE CAR AND THE BREAK PEDAL MADE A WHOOSH AND POP AND WOULD NOT DEPRESS. BREAKS WOULD BARELY WORK AND PEDAL NO LONGER MOVES. THANKFULLY I WAS PARKED AT THE TIME AND NOT TRAVELING. ACCORDING TO NEWS REPORTS, THIS ISSUE IS BEING INVESTIGATED SO I THOUGHT I WOULD ADD MY REPORT TO THE LIST.
CAME UP TO A STOP LIGHT MY BRAKES WENT CLEARLY TO THE FLOOR BOARD. THE CAR WAS NOT STOPPING. RAN THE RED LIGHT, AND BRAKES STARTED TO WORK AGAIN. PULLED INTO MY PLACE OF EMPLOYMENT WHICH WAS RIGHT NEXT TO THE STOP LIGHT. BRAKES WENT OUT AGAIN. BRAKE FLUID JUST POURED OUT AFTER IT WAS PUT IN.
WHEN GETTING INTO MY CAR IN THE MORNING OR AFTER WORK (ANY TIME THE CAR HAS BEEN SITTING FOR A WHILE), THE CLUTCH PEDAL GOES STRAIGHT TO THE FLOOR AND DOESN'T COME BACK UP. I CANNOT PUT MY CAR INTO GEAR OR EVEN START THE CAR. I HAVE TO PUMP THE CLUTCH PEDAL FOR A FEW MINUTES UNTIL I HAVE A LITTLE PRESSURE TO EVEN START MY CAR. MY CAR STALLED OUT TWICE FROM THIS WHEN ENTERING A PARKING GARAGE AND I ALMOST HIT ANOTHER CAR BECAUSE OF THIS. AFTER DRIVING THE CAR FOR 2-3 MILES THE CLUTCH SEEMS TO COME BACK TO NORMAL PRESSURE AND I CAN SHIFT FINE AT THAT POINT.
THIS CAR WHEN COLD.HE RUNS,// WHEN IT IS HOT STOP INEXPLICABLY..I WANT KNOW .WHAT TO DO BECAUSE I LIVE IN VENEZUELA..//HERE YOU CAN NOT AFFORD TO FIX IT ...INEED YOUR HELP..PLEASE..SO I WORK AT THE EMBASSY OF BRAZIL..;;I WORKED IN NEW YORK..I BROUGHT THIS CAR THERE ..YOU GUYS THINK IT IS POSSIBLE ..CHYRYSLER SEEK THIS CAR HERE TO FIX FOR ME..SO I LOVE THIS CAR..NOW I BOUGHT GRAND CHEROKEE,,.BUT ILOVE MY DODGE..THIS CAR HAS ONLY7.000.MILES ..NOW MY CAR JUST GETS IN GARAGE...OBS OBS..AVERY SAD THING HAPPENED TO ME I WAS IN MIAMI CHRYSLER STORE IN VENTURA .THEY SOLD ME THE WRONG COMPUTER.;AND EVEN STAYED WTH MY OLD COMPUTER ..THEY SOLD ME THIS COMPUTER DOESN'T.PLUGUE CABLES IN MY CAR ...PLEASE HELPE ME...
I NOTICED WHEN I STARTED THE CAR AND DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDDLE IT MADE A LOT OF AIR NOISE. WHEN I CAME TO A STOP SIGN AND TRIED TO STOP THE BRAKE WAS VERY HARD TO DEPRESS AND THE CAR TOOK A VERY LONG TIME TO STOP. I PULLED OVER AND RESTARTED THE CAR HOPING FOR A DIFFERENT RESULT. AGAIN THE BRAKES MADE A LOT OF AIR NOISE, AND I PRACTICALLY HAD TO STAND ON THE PEDDLE TO GET IT DO DEPRESS, TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP I HAD TO UTILIZE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE. I HAD TO HAVE CAR TOWED TO GARAGE, THEY REPLACED THE BRAKE BOOSTER, THEN AS THEY PULLED IT OUT OF THE GARAGE, IT FAILED AGAIN. THEY HAD TO REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER AND THE BRAKE BOOSTER AGAIN. ....UPDATED 06/15/16 *BF UPDATED 11/27/2017*CN
WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, THE BRAKES SOUNDED AS IF AIR WERE PRESENT. THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STOP WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. IT FELT LIKE THERE WAS PRESSURE IN THE PEDAL. I WAS HEADING INTO A CURVE AND COULD NOT SLOW DOWN. I HAD TO PULL THE E BRAKE AND ENDED UP SLIDING INTO A 180 AND SLID OFF THE ROAD. I AM LUCKY TO BE ALIVE! THIS NEEDS TO BE BROUGHT TO DODGES' ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY! I AM AFRAID OF WHAT THE COST IS TO FIX THIS AND I DON'T HAVE A VEHICLE TO DRIVE TO WORK NOW! THE INFORMATION CENTER ON THE DASHBOARD SAYS "ELECTRONIC BRAKING SYTEM NEEDS TO BE SERVICED". THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND I AM LUCKY I DID NOT GET KILLED OR KILL ANYONE ELSE!
THERE WAS A LOUD POPPING SOUND AND EVER SINCE WHENEVER THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS PRESSED IT SOUNDED LIKE AIR WHOOSHING OUT OF THE BRAKE PEDAL. THERE WAS BARELY ENOUGH BRAKING FORCE TO STOP THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING AT IDLE. I HAD TO USE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO MAKE IT HOME. I TOOK IT TO A DODGE DEALERSHIP THIS MORNING (6/22/2015) AND THE BRAKE BOOSTER HAD TO BE REPLACED...UPDATED 08/06/15 *BF...UPDATED 08/12/15 *BF THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE BRAKE BOOSTER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. UPDATED 11/30/2015 *JS UPDATED 12/23/2015*JS....UPDATED 06/15/16 *BF UPDATED 10/26/2017*CN
STOP PULLING JUST ABOUT GOT RAN OVER ON I65 4 TIMES DODGE HAS IT AT DEALER GOING TO REPROGRA TCM BUT WHAT I HAVE READ ON THIS IT WILL NOT FIX PROBLEM WILL LAST TILL CAR IT NOT WARRANTY THEN IT IS MINE
WHEN TRYING TO START THE CAR, THE CLUTCH PEDAL WILL GET STUCK DOWN AND NOT ENGAGE INTERMITTENTLY. THE CLUTCH PEDAL DROPS TO THE FLOOR WHEN DEPRESSED AND NOT RETURNING WITHOUT PUMPING THE PEDAL PRIOR TO STARTING THE ENGINE. THIS IS BECOMING COMMON AFTER THE CAR IS NOT IN OPERATION OVERNIGHT
2013 DODGE DART BOUGHT NEW FROM DEALER. JUNE 17, 2015 WHILE TRAVELING THROUGH A PARKING LOT A APPROXIMATELY 20MPH AXLE BROKE PULLING IT FROM TRANSMISSION. CV KNUCKLE/JOINT, TIE-ROD ALL BROKE. WHEEL AND TIRE TURNED AT A 90 DEGREE ANGLE FROM CAR. LEFT A DIVOT IN CONCRETE WHERE EVERYTHING HIT GROUND. VISUAL ESTIMATE BY DEALER WAS $6,500. NOTHING WAS HIT, NO CURB, NO POT HOLE, SPEED BUMP, OR ANY OTHER OBJECT. POLICE REPORT STATES THERE WAS NOTHING IN THE AREA TO HIT. NO OTHER DAMAGE TO VEHICLE, SUCH AS IMPACT FROM OTHER OBJECTS. SERVICE MANAGER AT DEALERSHIP CAR WAS TAKEN TO SAID THERE WAS SO MUCH DAMAGE HE COULDN'T TELL WHAT BROKE FIRST. CHRYSLER LEGAL SPECIAL INVESTIGATIONS TEAM INSPECTED VEHICLE. 3 WEEKS LATER THEY SENT ME A REPORT SAYING IT WAS NOT A MECHANICAL DEFECT AND MY EXTENDED WARRANTY WOULD NOT REPAIR. THEY INSIST I FILE WITH MY INSURANCE CARRIER. A VEHICLE THAT IS 18 MONTHS OLD WITH ONLY 39,000 MILES SHOULD NOT FALL APART LIKE THAT IF IT DOESN'T STRIKE ANYTHING. I'VE REQUESTED COPY OF REPORT CHRYSLER USED TO MAKE THEIR DECISION.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE IDLING, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. FOLLOWING THE FAILURE, THE CHECK ENGINE, SERVICE TRANSMISSION, AND OIL LOW PRESSURE LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER ON THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE DEALER FACTORY RESET THE VEHICLE AND REPLACED THE HYDROLOGICAL PUMP. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,800.
I WAS HEADED TO THE MALL ON DAY WITH MY FIANCEE AND CHILD AND WHILE PULLING UP APPLYING THE BRAKE AT A RED LIGHT. I HEARD WHAT SOUND LIKE A POP AND MY BREAK PEDAL INSTANTLY BECAME HARD TO PRESS. I HAD TO USE ALMOST ALL MY LEG STRENGTH TO STOP THE CAR (TO BRAKE) BEFORE THE RED LIGHT. VERY WORRIED WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN I DRIVE THROUGH AND USED EMERGENCY BRAKE TO PARK IN YHE PARKING LOT. I REPAIRED IT MYSELF AFTER WAITING ON THE PART THAT WAS ON BACK ORDER FOR 3 WEEKS. I FIXED IT PROPERLY AND 2 WEEKS LATER THE SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN. 7/30/15 I BELIEVE IT COULD NOW BE THE MASTER CYLINDER LEAKING INTO MY BOOSTER. I AM GOING TO PULL THE MASTER CYLINDER AND PUT SOME PRESSURE THROUGH IT AND SEE IF IT LEAKS AS I PRESS THE PUSH ROD. I WILL SURELY LET EVERYONE KNOW.
STARTED MY VEHICLE THIS MORNING AND NOTICE THAT ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT WENT ON AND STARTED FLASHING,WHICH I HAD THE SAME ISSUE ON 6/13/15 AND HAD IT TOW TO THE DEALER AT WHICH THEY TOLD ME IT WAS A BATTERY FAILURE AND IT WAS REPLACED WITH A NEW BATTERY AND NOW WAITING ON A TOW TO TAKE IT BACK TO THE DODGE DEALER.....IM TO SCARE TO TAKE A CHANCE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE CAUSE IT STARTED TO MISSFIRE AND IDLE AND IT SHUT DOWN ON ME.....
I DEPRESSED THE CLUTCH TO START THE ENGINE AND WHEN IT STARTED THE CAR BEGAN TO MOVE EVEN THOUGH THE CLUTCH PEDAL WAS FULLY DEPRESSED. I HAD TO TURN THE ENGINE OFF TO STOP THE CAR FROM MOVING AND THE CLUTCH PEDAL REMAINED ON THE FLOOR. AFTER A FEW MORE ATTEMPTS IT STARTED TO WORK CORRECTLY. IT NOW DOES THIS EVERY TIME IT IS PARKED FOR A FEW HOURS. VERY DANGEROUS DEFECT THAT NEEDS TO BE RECALLED BY CHRYSLER.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE REVERSING OUT OF A PARKING LOT AT 5 MPH, THE CLUTCH FAILED TO SHIFT OUT OF REVERSE TO GO INTO FIRST GEAR. THE FAILURE RECURRED ONCE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 24,000.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE GEAR STICK CHANGED POSITION FROM DRIVE TO NEUTRAL WHILE COMING TO A STOP. THE CONTACT RECEIVED A NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V542000 (POWER TRAIN); HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE RECALL WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 18,000. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.
THIS IS A FOLLOW-UP REPORT TO: DATE OF INCIDENT: 11/18/2014, NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10659435. 2013 DODGE DART SXT BRAKES HAD FAILED ONCE BEFORE, ABOUT SIX MONTHS AGO. BRAKE BOOSTER WAS TO BLAME AND REPLACED BY DEALER. DEALER STATED THAT THIS WAS THE FIRST THEY HAD HEARD OF THE PROBLEM AND I TOOK IT AS A FLUKE. YESTERDAY I EXPERIENCED THE SAME THING - POP FROM THE BRAKE PEDAL THEN NO BRAKES. TOWED TO DEALER FOR REPAIR - AGAIN! I BOUGHT THIS CAR TO BE SAFE AND RELIABLE. I LOVE THE CAR, BUT IT'S NEITHER OF THOSE THINGS. THANKFULLY I'VE BEEN LUCKY BOTH TIMES AND I HAVE NOT KILLED MYSELF OR OTHERS WITH THIS DEFECT. THE UNDERLYING PROBLEM NEEDS FOUND AND ADDRESSED ASAP.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN DRIVING OVER 8 MPH, AN AIR HISSING NOISE COULD BE HEARD WHILE DEPRESSING THE SERVICE BRAKES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000. MA 10/16/15 *CN
I PURCHASED BY VEHICLE APPROXIMATELY TWO YEARS AGO AND THE BATTERY, RATHER SUDDENLY, DIED ON ME TURNING ONTO A BUSY STREET CAUSING THE CAR TO STOP WORKING WITHOUT A ROLLING START. UPON INSPECTION OF THE CAR, A MECHANIC AND FRIEND OF MINE FOUND "SHADY" WORK DONE ON CERTAIN PARTS OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I BELIEVE IT WAS INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTION BOX, WAS FOUND WHAT SEEMED TO BE A FUSE ATTACHED TO A CHUNK OF PLASTIC THAT WAS JUST DANGLING IN THE BOX BY JUST THE WIRE AND THE BOX ITSELF HAD BE HELD CLOSED BY ZIP TIES AFTER SEEMINGLY HAVING BEEN FORCED OPEN DURING A PREVIOUS SERVICE. AFTER THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED, CAR STILL EXHIBITED PROBLEMS WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL REQUIRING ADDITIONAL SERVICE. *TR
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V542000 (POWER TRAIN) AND STATED THAT THE PART NEEDED FOR THE REPAIR WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.
2013 DART 2.0 LITER, 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS. CLUTCH PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR WITH NO RESISTANCE AND WILL NOT DISENGAGE CLUTCH. PULLING THE PEDAL UP WITH FOOT AND PUMPING IT RESTORES FUNCTION UNTIL THE CAR IS PARKED AT WHICH TIME, THE SYSTEM BLEEDS DOWN AGAIN AND THE PEDAL GOES TO THE FLOOR WITHOUT DISENGAGING THE CLUTCH. PROBLEM IS MARKEDLY WORSE IN HOT WEATHER. RESPONSE FROM CHRYSLER ON RECTIFICATION ACTION IS AWAITING FOLLOWING INQUIRY BY MYSELF.
WE'VE HAD ISSUES WITH THE CAR SINCE DAY ONE OF DRIVING IT OFF THE LOT BUT THE DEALERSHIP DIDN'T WANT TO DO THEIR JOB HERE ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO WE WERE IN THE PROCESS OF MOVING AND MY FIANCEE HAD THE CAR FLOORED I THOUGHT FOR SURE MY FAMILY WAS GOING TO LOSE THEIR LIVES BECAUSE THE CAR DIDN'T HAVE THE POWER TO SPEED UP ITS NOT THE FIRST TIME AND MY FAMILY LIVES COMES FIRST WE'VE TRIED GETTING IT RESOLVED AND EVEN TRIED TO USE IT AS A TRADE IT AT ANOTHER DEALERSHIP AND THEY REFUSE TO EVEN TOUCH IT THE CAR HAD ALREADY 43000 MILES ON IT WHEN WE DROVE IT OFF THE LOT AND 5 DAYS AFTER HAVING IT THE SHIFTER CABLE POPPED OFF AND SINCE THEN ITS BEEN PROBLEMS AFTER PROBLEMS AND THERE'S SO MUCH MORE WRONG WITH IT AND SINCE JUNE ITS BEEN SITTING I REFUSE TO HAVE MY FAMILY HURT DO TO A MALFUNCTIONING CAR MY FIANCEE [XXX] NAME IS ALSO ON THE PAPERWORK FROM DEALERSHIP AMONGST WE'VE CONTACTED ATTORNEY GENERAL DODGE CHRYSLER MOPAR AND DEAL WITH REINKES AND FINDLAY DODGE FOR THINGS ONE THIS CAR. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR
INTERMITTENTLY, THE CLUTCH PEDAL HAD DROPPED TO THE FLOOR WHEN DEPRESSED AND NOT RETURNING WITHOUT PUMPING THE PEDAL PRIOR TO STARTING THE ENGINE. THIS WAS BECOMING COMMON AFTER THE CAR WAS NOT IN OPERATION OVERNIGHT BUT ON 6-AUG-15 THE WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS PRIOR TO EXITING A LIMITED ACCESS HIGHWAY WITH THE PEDAL DEPRESSED TO THE FLOOR THE ENGINE DID NOT DISENGAGE FROM THE TRANSMISSION OR ALLOW THE SHIFTER TO BE MOVE OUT OF GEAR. IT REQUIRED THE PEDAL TO BE PULLED UP MANUALLY WITH THE TOE OF MY SHOE AND PUMPED BEFORE IT ACTUATED THE CLUTCH AND ALLOWED THE CAR TO STOP. AN ACCIDENT WAS NARROWLY AVOIDED ON INTERSTATE 495 DUE TO THIS FAILURE. CHRYSLER WAS CONTACTED REGARDING THE SERVICE BULLETIN M37, TRANSAXIAL SLAVE VALVE DEFECT AND THEY SAID THIS IS A LISTED ISSUE FOR THE CAR/ENGINE BUT NOT FOR THIS VIN. REGARDLESS OF THE BULLETIN'S "COMMITMENT TO SAFETY" THEY WOULD NOT COVER ANY TOWING OR REPAIR.