2024 Hyundai Ioniq 6

I was parking my car a Hyundai Ioniq 6, in an easy parking space when I briefly removed my foot, which was lightly depressed on the gas pedal to hit the brake pedal, the car suddenly accelerated jumped the curb hit another car and hit a tree. The airbag did not deploy I am uninjured. The other car was parked, but was damaged. My car was damaged. It all happened in about two or three seconds and my foot was no longer on the gas pedal. Moreover, the automated systems for parking collision warning, and for automatic stopping did not work. This is what came up when I googled it. Reports suggest some Hyundai Ioniq models, including potential Ioniq 6 instances, may exhibit unexpected, brief acceleration following a software update meant to address a separate braking recall. This issue is often linked to the "N-shift" mode, where the car may accelerate for 2-3 seconds after the driver lifts their foot.  I had that software update

Vehicle steering wheel was off-center and the vehicle wandered whenever the road changed camber or had rough sections. The vehicle was purchased used from Carvana,. I took it in for 4-wheel alignment and the tech reported that "All adjustment hardware at rear were pretty loose", and stated that it probably left the factory this way as he saw no evidence of prior adjustments. The left rear tire is badly worn on the outside and he recommended immediate replacement, which is awaiting warranty claim processing. Possible safety issues: Rear tire blowout, rear suspension alignment failure with loss of control.

ICCU failed. The car suddenly decelerated from 40mph to 25mph or less with no warning. The ICCU is confirmed to be an issue for Hyundai. I had the software update to fix the problem in 2025. It is currently at the dealership in Fort Mill, SC. DTC error code shows it as an ICCU failure. Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? There were no warning lamps to until the failure occurred.

I was driving on the highway, 65mph when I had a sudden loss of power, check electrical system warning and a battery picture came on. I was reduced to approx 10mph suddenly in rush hour traffic, in the left lane, with no shoulder to pull over to. I was able, with the kindness of other drivers slowing down, able to move to the right lane, then to the shoulder. Called AAA for tow to dealership. 12v battery and ICCU damage.

The morning after a successful level 2 charge (from 35% to 80%), the ICCU fuse blew, resulting in no power to the car. I had to have it towed to have it fixed (both the fuse and ICCU were replaced under warranty). The car had 20,013 miles when the fuse blew and I had both safety recalls (software updates) addressed when they came out. I thought the updates were to prevent this from happening. Fortunately I was in my garage and not on the road; however, just the evening before, I was on I-95 for over an hour and glad it did not occur then. So now I'm fearful that it could happen again when far from home.

After several days of below freezing temps, started car after work and received "check electrical systems" warning. Couldn't drive above 15-25 mph. Eventually led to total shutdown, could not start, lock/unlock doors, etc. Had to tow to dealer which they eventually deemed the ICCU to be at fault. 12v battery was dead and new battery they put in to test died it sounds like as well. Or they "recreated the problem" was their words after trying to claim it was only a bad 12v battery.

I had the ICCU unit recall taken care of on my car. While driving yesterday evening, I had a complete power failure. There were warning lights on the dashboard so I slowed down until it finally totally stopped. The warning lights said check electrical system and a yellow turtle light came on. While waiting for the tow truck all electric stopped including the flashers. It was dark, during rush hour and 10 degrees outside. I was left stranded, blocking traffic and with no heat. People were honking their horns and fighting to get around me. The street became one lane. It was very dangerous for me, I was a sitting duck. It also became dangerous for pedestrians trying to walk while cars squeezed around my car. Again, all of this happened in the dark in 10 degree weather. I waited all day to get a diagnosis from the dealer but they were too busy. I was not given a loaner car and have been stranded at home and lost a day of work. I had to have my car towed home last night and waited for a tow again to take it to the dealership. I may lose another day of work tomorrow.

When driving recently, the car suddenly began showing a warning message “check electrical system” and would not go beyond 25mph. I was on the way home but still far, and had to turn on my hazard lights to alert other drivers. Eventually the car escalated the warning to “pull the vehicle over” and implied that the main battery was having an issue. I had to have th car towed to a dealer (closest is 10 miles) who eventually diagnosed the issue as a blown ICCU. My understanding is this is a critical component to the charging infrastructure and must be fully operational for the car to safely drive. Hyundai repaired the part and I had the car back in a few days, but I could get no assurances on what happened or whether or not it would occur again. The car has 14,000 Miles in the Washington DC area. It seems incredibly unsafe that this component could blow at any time. I also understand there are many other owners with this exact issue.

ICCU failure. 5 minutes into my drive to work, the car slowed down, dashboard said electric failure and then died. It had to be towed to the dealership where it took a week to get ICCU replaced. Apparently a lot of Ioniq owners are having this problem. No warning signs, the car just dies. Car has 26,000 miles.

ICCU SHORTED AND BLEW FUSE AFTER CHARGING. Shut off driving down the road.

Driving 65 on the highway, the ICCU popped and died and the car immediately went into slow mode and decreased to 20mph in traffic in the snow. It displayed a message to pull over immediately and check the power system.

The power system failure warning came on as I was driving up on an intersection. WhenI released the accelerator because I was in i-pedal mode (one pedal driving), the cars braking system did not activate. Consequently, I ran the red light. The car power was reduced, and I was able to pull into the parking lot of a strip mall as a police vehicle pulled behind me. After explaining our situation and receiving my traffic ticket, the officer asked me to move the car out of the driveway, but I was unable to shift the car into drive given the power warnings that were flashing on the display. The officer asked if I needed a tow and I let him know I would use the brand’s Roadside Assistance for my vehicle. I turned the car off and the officer left. I waited about 10 minutes and I tried turning on the car again and was able to shift into drive and get out of the driveway and into a parking space. However, the car operated in low power mode and could only travel about 3 miles an hour. The tow truck driver had to jump the 12 V battery which was completely depleted in order to turn on the vehicle to move it. At Hyundai Service center, the car turned off abruptly as he was trying to move it into a parking spot. Despite supposedly having been addressed in a recall, the failure of the vehicle’s power system due to the ICCU put me in my family at risk while actively driving on a road with traffic.

The ICCU failed on my vehicle after 25,000 miles on a 2024 model year car. Driving on a cold and wet night, after pulling away from a stop sign, we heard a large POP and then dashboard lights indicating an electrical system problem. Apparently the sound was a fuse blowing, and then the car went into limp mode. We were able to drive at approximately 24 mph for about 5 minutes before the car told us to stop immediately. We had to get the car towed to a dealership the next day, after getting it towed to our house first. If this had happened on a freeway it would have been a very dangerous situation. We were told it was a just a "bad part". But there had been a previous recall for software update, and this part still blew up. There is nothing we are told that can be done and some of the units are just bad. Hyundai should find the ROOT CAUSE of this issue, and fix it!

Car horn stopped worked a year and a half in

The horns quit working. I'm on two weeks now waiting for the dealer to get the parts in to fix it. According to what I saw online, this is an ongoing issue.

As I was driving home from work, a loud POP went off under my car, and sirens began to go off. I was given a critical error, and told to immediately contact a dealership. My car began to slow, and would only go 25 mph. Luckily for me I was within a few miles of a dealership, but if I wasn't so fortunate this would have been a much larger issue. The ICCU has failed, despite already getting Hyundai's recall for this issue performed. I am now without my car for an unknown quantity of time.

Two years into my lease. I used my turn signal as normal, heard a loud CRACK as I pushed it down to signal a left turn, and the turn signal started to sag inside of its compartment behind the steering wheel. I did not use more pressure than normal, and I have never had this issue with another car before. The turn signal BROKE with normal use. This is not covered by warranty and I was quoted $1400 repair by the dealership.

ICCU failure DTC P1A9096 12 volt battery depleted charge and would not charge off of traction battery shutting down all systems. Vehicle stopped on the middle of highway creating a safety issue. Vehicle was in previously and had all recalls performed related this possible issue. Vehicle has been at dealers without a resolution for weeks.

I own a 2024 Hyundai Ioniq 6 that experienced a complete 12V battery failure at under 500 miles of use, despite showing normal voltage levels (12.5V off, 13.25V while attempting a jump). The vehicle was undrivable and could not start, even though the main battery (MV) was at 70% charge. There were no prior warning lamps or messages before the failure. The vehicle had to be towed and left inoperable for nearly 30 days. According to the servicing Hyundai dealership, the root cause was determined to be a failure caused by Hyundai’s own connected app, Bluelink — which the dealer explicitly said is the root cause for my batteries failure. Hyundai Motor America, however, has refused to acknowledge this diagnosis, and despite repeated inquiries over a 60-day period, has not provided any explanation or confirmation of the cause. They continue to point back to the dealer while providing no warranty-related answers, no documentation of testing done, and no safety assurance that the failure won’t recur. The issue puts safety at risk, as the 12V battery’s failure renders the entire EV completely disabled — without warning. This creates potential for owners to be stranded, especially if the issue occurs in unsafe or remote locations. In my case, roadside assistance failed to be able to pick up the vehicle twice, resulting in a 12-hour ordeal. Hyundai has made no effort to formally investigate the potential connection to Bluelink and appears to be suppressing acknowledgment of the defect trying to offer me a one month payment instead of acknowledging or confirming this is a possible issue that can happen again in the future contingent on me saying my concerns are resolved; they're not. The resolution involved a tech having to use a third party tech line & no data within the invoice. I believe this is a broader safety issue affecting other Hyundai EVs using the Bluelink system and that NHTSA should investigate whether this poses systemic risk across affected vehicles.

INCIDENT ONE: On 3/20/25 about 5 minutes after starting Climate Control on my Ioniq 6, I cleaned snow off the car and started it. As I started backing out, there was a loud warning sound and red indicators around the aerial image of the car on the dashboard. I double checked my surroundings and found no obstructions, so I continued to back out. As I began to turn the car into the direction I needed to head down the street, the car abruptly stopped. I had to put the car back into Drive and pulled forward. I checked again for snow on the bumpers and found none, so I backed out again, this time successfully. When I reached the intersection and tried to turn, the car again abruptly stopped and automatically sounded the horn. The car stopped in the lane of oncoming traffic, but there were no cars approaching. Again I had to put the car back into Drive. I pulled over and took a cloth and glass cleaner to wipe down the cameras. After doing this, I was able to continue on my commute without seeing red lines around the image of the car and without being abruptly stopped when turning. The dealer was unable to reproduce the problem, which they attempted to do under different weather conditions from those on the morning of March 20th. INCIDENT TWO: On 4/7/25, driving on a four-lane highway, a car pulled in front of me without signaling. I tried to alert them to my presence by sounding the horn. The space in the center of the steering wheel (with the horn icon on it) produced no sound when pressed. This was alarming. Fortunately I was able to slow down, and I was not hit by a car from behind. Later. I tried the horn again several times with no sound produced. The dealer repaired the horns.